Europe on a Shoestring - Lonely Planet · Cruise across the Adriatic on one of the ferry services to Italy, where your final week’s pit stops include hauntingly beauti - ful Venice,

Europe on a Shoestring

Mark Baker, Korina Miller, Simon Richmond, Andrea Schulte-Peevers, Andy Symington, Nicola Williams

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Russia &the Baltic Coast

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Central &Eastern Europe

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Germany,Austria &Benelux

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France &Switzerland

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Spain &Portugal

p471Italy, Greece & Turkey

Scandinavia

Great Britain &Ireland

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©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Welcome to Europe . . . . . .6

Europe Map . . . . . . . . . . . . 8

Europe’s Top 20 . . . . . . . 10

Need to Know . . . . . . . . . 20

First-Time Europe . . . . . . 22

If You Like . . . . . . . . . . . . 24

Month by Month . . . . . . . 27

Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . 32

Big Adventures, Small Budgets . . . . . . . . 38

Getting Around Europe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43

Regions at a Glance . . . . 46

GREAT BRITAIN & IRELAND . . . . . . . . . . 49England . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52London . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52Windsor & Eton . . . . . . . . . . 67Salisbury & Stonehenge . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68Bath . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69Oxford . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72Stratford-upon-Avon . . . . . 74Cambridge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76York . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77Manchester . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80Lake District National Park . . . . . . . . . . . 81Wales . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82Cardiff . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82Snowdonia National Park . . . . . . . . . . . 83Scotland . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84Edinburgh . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84Glasgow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90Inverness & Loch Ness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 94Isle of Skye . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95Great Britain Survival Guide . . . . . . . . . . . 96Ireland . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 99Dublin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 99

The Southeast . . . . . . . . . 109The Southwest . . . . . . . . . 111The West Coast . . . . . . . . . 117Northern Ireland . . . . . . . . 120Ireland Survival Guide . . . . . . . . . . 129

SCANDINAVIA . . . . . .131Denmark . . . . . . . . . . . . 134Copenhagen . . . . . . . . . . . 134Helsingør . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 142Roskilde . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 143Aarhus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 144Skagen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 145Denmark Survival Guide . . . . . . . . . . 145Sweden . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 146Stockholm . . . . . . . . . . . . . 146Uppsala . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 153Göteborg . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 153Gotland . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 155Norrland . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 155Sweden Survival Guide . . . . . . . . . . 157Finland . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 158Helsinki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 158Turku . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 164Lakeland . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 166Lapland . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 167

ON THE ROAD PLAN YOUR TRIP

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Contents

Finland Survival Guide . . . . . . . . . . 168Norway . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 170Oslo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 170The Western Fjords . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 175Northern Norway . . . . . . . 180Norway Survival Guide . . . . . . . . . . 183Iceland . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 184Reykjavík . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 184The Golden Circle . . . . . . . 191The South . . . . . . . . . . . . . 191The North . . . . . . . . . . . . . 194Iceland Survival Guide . . . . . . . . . . 199

GERMANY, AUSTRIA & BENELUX . . . . . . . 201Germany . . . . . . . . . . . . . 204Berlin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .204Dresden . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 217Leipzig . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .220Munich . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 222Romantic Road . . . . . . . . . 226Nuremberg . . . . . . . . . . . . 229Heidelberg . . . . . . . . . . . . . 232Black Forest . . . . . . . . . . . 233Frankfurt- am-Main . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 235The Romantic Rhine Valley . . . . . . . . . . . . 237Trier . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 238Cologne . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 239Düsseldorf . . . . . . . . . . . . . 242Hamburg . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 244Bremen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 248Germany Survival Guide . . . . . . . . . . 249Belgium . . . . . . . . . . . . . 250Brussels . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .250

Antwerp . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 257Ghent . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .260Bruges . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 262Ypres . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 265Mons . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 266Belgium Survival Guide . . . . . . . . . . 267Luxembourg . . . . . . . . . 268Luxembourg City . . . . . . . 268Luxembourg Survival Guide . . . . . . . . . . 270The Netherlands . . . . . . . . . . 271Amsterdam . . . . . . . . . . . . 271Delft . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 277Rotterdam . . . . . . . . . . . . . 279Maastricht . . . . . . . . . . . . . 281Netherlands Survival Guide . . . . . . . . . . 282Austria . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 283Vienna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 283Graz . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 293Klagenfurt . . . . . . . . . . . . .296Salzburg . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .296Salzkammergut . . . . . . . 300Tyrol . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 301Austria Survival Guide . . . . . . . . . . 305

FRANCE & SWITZERLAND . . . . 307France . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 310Paris . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 310Lille . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 328The Somme . . . . . . . . . . . . 332Normandy . . . . . . . . . . . . . 333Mont St-Michel . . . . . . . . . 334Brittany . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 335The Loire Valley . . . . . . . . 336Champagne . . . . . . . . . . . . 339Lyon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 341Chamonix . . . . . . . . . . . . .344Bordeaux . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 345Provence . . . . . . . . . . . . . .346French Riviera . . . . . . . . . .350Monaco . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 354France Survival Guide . . . . . . . . . . 356Switzerland . . . . . . . . . . 358Geneva . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 358Lausanne . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 362Valais . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 365Mittelland & Bernese Oberland . . . . . .366Lucerne . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 369Basel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 371Zürich . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 372

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Ticino . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 373Switzerland Survival Guide . . . . . . . . . . 374

SPAIN & PORTUGAL . . . . . . . 377Spain . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 380Madrid . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .380Around Madrid . . . . . . . . .390San Sebastián . . . . . . . . . . 392Bilbao . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .394Burgos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .396Salamanca . . . . . . . . . . . . . 397León . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .399Santiago de Compostela . . . . . . . . . . . .400

Barcelona . . . . . . . . . . . . .402Girona . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 411The Balearic Islands . . . . 412Valencia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 421Andalucía . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 424Spain Survival Guide . . . . . . . . . . 442Portugal . . . . . . . . . . . . . 443Lisbon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .443Around Lisbon . . . . . . . . .450The Algarve . . . . . . . . . . . . 453Évora . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 458Óbidos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 459Nazaré . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .460Coimbra . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .460Porto . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .463Braga . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .468Parque Nacional da Peneda-Gerês . . . . . . .468Portugal Survival Guide . . . . . . . . . . 469

ITALY, GREECE & TURKEY . . . . . . . . . . 471Italy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 474Venice . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 474Florence . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 487Rome . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .495Italy Survival Guide . . . . . 515

Greece . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 519Corfu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 519Athens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 527Delphi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 536Santorini . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 539Rhodes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 542Greece Survival Guide . . . . . . . . . . 547Turkey . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 550Antalya . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .550Selçuk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 555İstanbul . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 558Ankara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .568Konya . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 571Cappadocia . . . . . . . . . . . . 575Turkey Survival Guide . . . . . . . . . . 578

BALKANS . . . . . . . . 583Slovenia . . . . . . . . . . . . . 586Ljubljana . . . . . . . . . . . . . .586Bled . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 592Piran . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 595Slovenia Survival Guide . . . . . . . . . . 596Croatia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 597Zagreb . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 597Rovinj . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .603Split . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .605

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SURVIVAL GUIDE

Contents

Dubrovnik . . . . . . . . . . . . .609Croatia Survival Guide . . . . . . . . . . 613Bosnia & Hercegovina . . . 615Sarajevo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 615Mostar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 622Bosnia & Hercegovina Survival Guide . . . . . . . . . . 624Montenegro . . . . . . . . . . 626Budva . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 626Kotor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .630Perast . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 632Lovćen National Park . . . 633Cetinje . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .634Montenegro Survival Guide . . . . . . . . . . 636Albania . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 637Tirana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 637Berat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .643Gjirokastra . . . . . . . . . . . . .644Albania Survival Guide . . . . . . . . . . 645Macedonia . . . . . . . . . . . 647Skopje . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 647Ohrid . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 652Pelister National Park . . . 656Macedonia Survival Guide . . . . . . . . . . 656Serbia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 658Belgrade . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 658Novi Sad . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .666Niš . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 667Serbia Survival Guide . . . . . . . . . . 669

CENTRAL & EASTERN EUROPE . . . 671Czech Republic . . . . . . . 674Prague . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 674Bohemia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 685Moravia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .688Czech Republic Survival Guide . . . . . . . . . . 689

Poland . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 691Warsaw . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 691Kraków . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .699Poland Survival Guide . . . . . . . . . . 706Hungary . . . . . . . . . . . . . 707Budapest . . . . . . . . . . . . . 707Northeastern Hungary . . . 717Hungary Survival Guide . . . . . . . . . . 720Romania . . . . . . . . . . . . . 722Bucharest . . . . . . . . . . . . . 722Transylvania . . . . . . . . . . . 729Romania Survival Guide . . . . . . . . . . 738Bulgaria . . . . . . . . . . . . . 739Sofia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 739Plovdiv . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 745Koprivshtitsa . . . . . . . . . . . 748Veliko Târnovo . . . . . . . . . . 749Varna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 751Sozopol . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 754Bulgaria Survival Guide . . . . . . . . . . 756Ukraine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 757Kyiv . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 757Lviv . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 764Ukraine Survival Guide . . . . . . . . . . 769

RUSSIA & THE BALTIC COAST . . . . 773Russia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 776Moscow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 776St Petersburg . . . . . . . . . . 787Peterhof . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 795Pushkin (Tsarskoe Selo) . . . 795Kaliningrad Region . . . . . . 795Russia Survival Guide . . . . . . . . . . 797Estonia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 800Tallinn . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 800

Tartu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 810Pärnu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 813Estonia Survival Guide . . . . . . . . . . 815Latvia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 816Rīga . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 816Jūrmala . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 824Sigulda . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 826Cēsis . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 828Ventspils . . . . . . . . . . . . . .829Latvia Survival Guide . . . . . . . . . .830Lithuania . . . . . . . . . . . . 831Vilnius . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 831Trakai . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .839Kaunas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .840Klaipėda . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .843Curonian Spit National Park . . . . . . . . . .844Lithuania Survival Guide . . . . . . . . . . 845

Directory A–Z . . . . . . . . 848

Transport . . . . . . . . . . . . 858

Language . . . . . . . . . . . . 865

Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 874

Map Legend . . . . . . . . . . 894

SPECIAL FEATURESFirst-Time Europe . . . . . . 22

Big Adventures, Small Budgets . . . . . . . . 38

Getting Around Europe . . . 43

Plan Your Trip

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Itineraries

First-Time Europe

This combo of major league countries and left-field destinations provides an irresistible mix of world-famous sights and unforgettable experiences for the first-time European traveller.

Ease into the first two weeks with Ireland and Great Britain. The atmosphere of a Dublin bar provides the perfect introduc-tion, followed by a few days exploring the city’s museums and literary haunts. It costs nothing to walk across the Unesco-listed Giant’s Causeway in Northern Ireland, which leaves more money to enjoy

your next stop: London. The city is pricey, but affordable if you focus on its free mu-seums and parks. Travel west to marvel at Stonehenge and wander the historic streets of Oxford and Bath.

Return to London to board the Eurostar or a low-cost airline flight (often cheaper) for the next couple of weeks to hop around some of the continent’s iconic northern metropolises. In Paris you will be dazzled by the Louvre, Eiffel Tower and Versailles. Check out more classic art, plus those cafes, in enchanting Amsterdam. Get a taste of Scandinavia in Copenhagen, the

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coolest kid of the Nordic bloc. And unleash your inner party animal in Berlin, where you can also see the remains of the wall.

Go through the former Iron Curtain to the gorgeous old Polish royal capital of Kraków, miraculously spared destruction in WWII. If you thought that was stunning wait till you see the architectural glories of Prague. Continue to Budapest to freshen up in thermal baths and enjoy cafes and bars, followed by a visit to Slovenia’s eco-friendly capital Ljubljana.

The Venetian-style seaside resort of Piran is a good starting point for a jour-

ney down the scenic Dalmatian Coast via Split and Dubrovnik, both with ancient ruins to explore. End up off the beaten track in Albania, where you can sail on a ferry across beguiling Lake Koman and relax at a beachside campsite in Drymades on the Albanian Riviera.

Cruise across the Adriatic on one of the ferry services to Italy, where your final week’s pit stops include hauntingly beauti-ful Venice, the exquisite Renaissance time capsule of Florence, and Rome.

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This trans-European journey kicks off in the east, a dynamic part of Europe where it’s still possible to encounter under-the-radar experiences. Then enjoy a more leisurely pace of life along the balmy Mediterranean coast as you continue west towards the resorts of Spain and Portugal.

Begin in Russia’s capital Moscow, where the imposing Kremlin and adjacent Red Square are guaranteed to strike you with awe. Take an overnight train to St Petersburg, home to the magnificent art collection of the Hermitage and gorgeously restored imperial palaces. Another overnight train will whisk you to Latvia’s lovely art-nouveau captial Rīga, where you can get a taste of the Baltic. If the weather’s fine consider a day trip to the chic beach resort of Jūrmala.

Poland’s capital Warsaw is a vibrant city that’s survived all that history could throw at it. Continue into Ukraine and spend a few days in Unesco World Heritage–listed Lviv, which oozes Central European charm. Move on to Transylvania and sharpen your fangs at ‘Drac-ula’s’ castle in Bran. Romania’s dynamic capital Bucharest is next, with its good museums, parks and trendy cafes.

Sofia, Bulgaria’s relaxed capital, is another recommended pitstop en-route to the beautiful, chaotic İstanbul: when you’ve had your fill of sightseeing you can relax in a hamam (Turkish steam bath).

Explore the ancient world with the Acropolis in Athens, then island-hop to volcanic Santorini. Pick up the pace by flying to Spain where the genius of Gaudí, cultural riches and glorious food beckon in supercool Barcelona. Zip north to Basque seaside resort San Sebastián, with its delicious food scene, and to the Museo Guggenheim in happening Bilbao. End in energetic Madrid, home to some of Europe’s finest galleries and bars.

Head south to see the beautiful Moorish architecture of the Alhambra in Granada and the stunning Mezquita of Córdoba. Cross to Portugal where the fascinating capital Lisbon offers a lamplit old quarter and superb pastéis de nata (custard tarts) in the waterside Belém district.

8 WEEKS East to West

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Transylvania

Barcelona

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SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feed-back goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters.

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873873

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTSClimate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, pp1633–44.Illustrations pp86–7, pp322–3, pp330–1, pp388–9, pp404–5, pp414–15, pp484–5, pp496–7, pp508–9, pp510–11, pp780–1, pp788–9 by Javier Zarracina; pp60–1 by Javier Zarracina and Michael Weldon.Cover photograph: Vespa scooter, Douglas Carr/Alamy ©

Behind the Scenes

THIS BOOKThis 10th edition of Lonely Planet’s Europe on a Shoe-string guidebook was curated by Mark Baker, Korina Miller, Simon Richmond, Andrea Schulte-Peevers, Andy Syming-ton, Brana Vladisavljevic and Nicola Williams. This guidebook was produced by the following:

Managing Destination Editor Jennifer Carey

Destination Editors Daniel

Fahey, Gemma Graham, Niamh O’Brien, Tom Stainer, Anna Tyler, Brana Vladisavljevic, Clifton WilkinsonSenior Product Editors Anne Mason, Elizabeth JonesProduct Editor Alison RidgwaySenior Cartographer Mark GriffithsBook Designer Michael WeldonAssisting Editors Kate Chap-man, Pete Cruttenden, Bruce Evans, Samantha Forge, Shona

Gray, Sandie Kestell, Cath Lanigan, Amy Lysen, Susan PatersonAssisting Cartographers Laura Bailey, Anita BanhAssisting Book Designer Katherine MarshCover Researcher Naomi ParkerThanks to Carolyn Boicos, Adriaan Boogert, Victoria Dickson, James Hardy, Clara Monitto, Claire Murphy, Kirsten Rawlings, John Taufa


874

Index

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

AAachen 242Aarhus 144ABBA 147abbeys, see monasteriesAbisko 155accommodation 22, 39,

848-50, see also individual locations

Acropolis (Athens) 18, 527, 18

activities 25-6, 27-31, see also individual activities, individual locations

air travel, see also individual locations

to/from Europe 858within Europe 43-4, 859

Akureyri 194-5Åland 166Albania 41, 637-47, 584-5

accommodation 583, 645budgeting 639climate 639drinking 639food 639, 646highlights 584-5, 638holidays 646internet access 646internet resources 639itineraries 638language 639, 865money 646opening hours 646telephone services 646travel seasons 639travel to/from 639, 646travel within 639, 646-7

Albanian language 639, 865Albanian Riviera 644Albayzín 433Algarve, the 453, 452-3

Alhambra 414-15, 432-4, 414-15

Amboise 338-9Amsterdam 15, 271-7, 272,

274-5, 15accommodation 274-6activities 273-4drinking 276-7food 275, 276nightlife 276-7sights 271-3tourist information 277tours 273-4travel to/from 277travel within 277walking tours 274

Andalucía 424-42Andrićgrad 621angora wool 569Ankara 568-71, 570Antalya 550-5, 554Antwerp 257-9, 258Arc de Triomphe 315archaeological museums

Archaeological Museum of Macedonia (Skopje) 647

Archaeological Museum (Rhodes) 544-5

Archaeological Museum (Sofia) 743

Archaeological Museum (Sozopol) 754

Archaeological Museum (Split) 607

Archaeological Museum (Varna) 752

İstanbul Archaeology Museums 560

National Archaeological Museum (Athens) 530

National Museum of Ireland – Archaeology (Dublin) 102

Veliko Târnovo Archaeological Museum (Veliko Târnovo) 749

archaeological sitesAcropolis (Athens) 527Acropolis of Lindos 547Amphitheatre (Trier) 238Ancient Agora (Athens)

527, 530Ancient Akrotiri 539Ancient Delphi 536Ancient Serdica Complex

(Sofia) 743Basilica Cistern

(İstanbul) 561Cappadocia 575Castelo (Óbidos) 459Colosseum (Rome) 495Convento do Carmo &

Museu Arqueológico (Lisbon) 448

Didyma 555Diocletian’s Palace (Split)

605, 607Ephesus 557Kaiserthermen (Trier) 238Konstantin Basilika (Trier)

239Mediana (Niš) 668Miletus 555Morbihan megaliths 335Palatino (Rome) 12,

500, 13Panathenaic Stadium

(Athens) 531Pantheon (Rome) 501Pompeii 510-11, 512,

510-11Porta Nigra (Trier) 238Priene 555Promontório do Sítio

(Nazaré) 460Roman Amphitheatre

(Plovdiv) 745Roman Baths (Bath) 69Roman Forum (Rome)

500, 508-9, 508-9Roman Thermae (Varna)

753Stonehenge 68

Street of the Knights (Rhodes) 544

Temple of Olympian Zeus (Athens) 531

Temple of Poseidon (Cape Sounion) 533

Templo Romano (Évora) 458-9

Terme di Caracalla (Rome) 505

art galleries, see galleriesAsturias 400Athens 18, 527-36, 528-9, 18

accommodation 531-2discount cards 527drinking 533-4emergencies 534festivals & events 531food 532-3music 534safety 534shopping 534sights 527, 530-1tourist information 534tours 531travel to/from 534-5travel within 535-6

ATMs 852aurora borealis 183, 197Auschwitz-Birkenau

Memorial & Museum 704

Austria 41, 46, 201, 283-306, 202-3

accommodation 305activities 285budgeting 285climate 285emergencies 201highlights 202-3, 284holidays 305-6internet resources 285,

305itineraries 284language 285LGBT travellers 305


875IN

DEX A

-C money 305opening hours 305travel seasons 285travel to/from 285, 306travel within 285, 306

Avignon 349-50Ávila 387Aya Sofya (İstanbul) 558-9

BBacharach 237Balearic Islands 412-20Balkans 41-2, 47, 583-

670, 584-5, see also individual countries

accommodation 583food 583highlights 584-5

ballooning 574, 576Baltic Coast 42, 47, 800-

46, 774-5, see also individual countries


Bamberg 229Banja Luka 621Barcelona 16, 402-11, 406-

7, 410-11, 16accommodation 408drinking 409entertainment 410food 408-9nightlife 409sights 402-8tourist information 411travel to/from 411travel within 411

bargaining 849bars 26Basel 371-2basilicas, see churches &

cathedralsBath 69-71, 70bathrooms 855Bayeux 333-4beaches 24

Andalucía 441Bulgaria 751, 752, 754Cádiz 436Jūrmala 824-5Lagos 456Macedonia 653Montenegro 626Pärnu 813Santorini 539-40Serbia 663, 666Ventspils 829

beerBelgium 262Czech Republic 28, 683Germany 248Greece 539Ireland 99, 102Lithuania 843-4Netherlands 273

Belá Tatras 690Belarus 42, 766, 672-3,

767Belfast 120-6, 122Belgium 41, 201, 250-68,

202-3accommodation 267budgeting 253climate 253emergencies 201food 253highlights 202-3, 252holidays 267internet resources 253itineraries 252language 253LGBT travellers 267money 267opening hours 267travel seasons 253travel to/from 253travel within 253

Belgrade 658-66, 662-3Benelux 41, 46, 250-83,

202-3, see also individual countries

budgeting 253climate 253food 253highlights 202-3internet resources 253itineraries 252languages 253travel seasons 253travel within 253

Berat 643-4Bergen 176-8, 177Berlin 204-17, 205, 210,

212, 214-15, 13, 208-9accommodation 213-15discount cards 204drinking 216-17food 215-16free attractions 211nightlife 216-17sights 204, 208-11, 213tourist information 217tours 213travel to/from 217travel within 217

Berlin Wall 13, 208-9, 210-11, 13, 208-9

Bern 366-8Bernese Oberland 366-9bicycle travel, see cyclingBiertan 733Bilbao 394-6, 394Billund 142Black Forest 233-5, 234Bled 592-5, 594Blois 337-8Blue Lagoon (Reykjavík)

190boat travel

ferry travel 161, 181, 242, 642

to/from Europe 859within Europe 860

Bohemia 685-8books 21Bordeaux 345-6border crossings 858-9Bosnia & Hercegovina

615-26, 584-5accommodation 624-5activities 617, 620budgeting 617climate 617food 625highlights 616holidays 625internet access 625internet resources 617itineraries 616language 617money 625opening hours 625safety 625telephone services 625travel seasons 617travel to/from 617, 625travel within 617, 625-6

Bosphorus 560Boukari 526Braga 468Brajčino 656Bran 734Braşov 731-4, 732Bratislava 690Braubach 238Bremen 248-9Brest 766Britain, see Great BritainBrittany 335-6Brno 688-95Bruges 262-5, 263Brussels 250-7, 254-5Bucharest 722-9, 726

Bucovina 728Budapest 15, 707-17, 710,

712, 15, 770accommodation 714-15drinking 716entertainment 716food 714, 715nightlife 716sights 707, 710-11, 713-14tourist information 716travel to /from 716-17travel within 717

budgeting 21, 38-42, see also individual locations

Budva 626-30, 627buildings, see notable

buildingsBulgaria 739-57, 672-3

accommodation 756activities 741budgeting 741climate 741food 756highlights 740holidays 756itineraries 740language 741, 865money 756telephone services 756travel seasons 741travel to/from 756-7travel within 741, 757visas 756

Bulgarian language 865Burgas 754Burgos 396-7bus travel 44-5, 860bushwalking, see hikingbusiness hours 853,

see also individual locations

CCadaqués 413Cádiz 436-8, 437cafes 26Cambridge 76-7campervans 860camping 848-9Campo de’ Fiori 501Cancale 336cannabis 851, 852Cannaregio 478Cannes 352-3Canterbury 67Cape Sounion 533Cappadocia 574, 575-8, 574

876

IND

EX C

car travel 45, 860-2Cardiff 82-3Carnac-Ville 335Carnevale 27Cascais 451-3castles & palaces 24, see

also fortressesAchillion Palace (Corfu)

526Alcazaba (Málaga) 439Alhambra (Granada)

414-15, 432-4, 414-15Austria 201Biljarda (Cetinje) 634Bled Castle 592-3Bran Castle 734, 19Buckingham Palace

(London) 52-3Cardiff Castle 82Čaršija (Skopje) 647Castelo (Óbidos) 459Castelo de São Jorge

(Lisbon) 448Castelo dos Mouros

(Sintra) 451Castle Howard (York) 79Cēsis Castle 828Český Krumlov State

Castle 686Château d’Azay-le-

Rideau (Touraine region) 338

Château de Bouillon 266Château de Chambord

(Blois region) 337Château de Chenonceau

(Touraine region) 338Château de Cheverny

(Blois region) 337Château de St-Malo 336Château de Versailles

328, 330-1, 25, 330-1Château de Villandry

(Touraine region) 338Château Royal

d’Amboise 338Château Royal de Blois

337Citadel (Sighişoara) 734Dolmabahçe Palace

(İstanbul) 561Dunvegan Castle (Skye)

95Edinburgh Castle 84Eger Castle 717Germany 201Gjirokastra Castle 645

Gravensteen (Ghent) 261Hofburg (Innsbruck) 302Hofburg (Vienna) 288Île du Grand Bé & Fort

du Petit Bé 336Kaiserappartements

(Vienna) 288Kaiserburg (Nuermberg)

231Kalaja (Berat) 643Karlštejn Castle (Prague)

675Kilkenny Castle 109King Nikola Museum

(Cetinje) 634-5Kronborg Slot

(Helsingør) 142Kungliga Slottet

(Stockholm) 146, 196Livonian Order Castle

(Ventspils) 830Ljubljana Castle 586Lynch’s Castle (Galway)

117-18Malbork Castle 697Munich Residenz 223Olavinlinna (Savonlinna)

166-7Old Royal Palace

(Prague) 674Palácio Nacional de

Sintra 450Palacio Real (Madrid) 381Palais des Papes

(Avignon) 349Palais Princier de

Monaco 355Palau de l’Almudaina

(Palma de Mallorca) 416

Prague Castle 674Real Alcázar (Seville) 425Rector’s Palace

(Dubrovnik) 610-11Residenz (Salzburg) 297Royal Castle (Warsaw)

695, 2Royal Palace

(Amsterdam) 273Royal Palace (Budapest)

707Schloss Ambras

(Innsbruck) 303Schloss Belvedere

(Vienna) 289, 14Schloss Charlottenburg

(Berlin) 213Schloss Eggenberg

(Graz) 295Schloss Heidelberg 232Schloss

Hohenschwangau 227

Schloss Mirabell (Salzburg) 299

Schloss Neuschwanstein (Hohenschwangau) 227

Schloss Sanssouci (Potsdam) 216

Schloss Schönbrunn (Vienna) 290

Sigulda Medieval Castle 827

Topkapı Palace (İstanbul) 560

Trakai Castle 839Turaida Museum Reserve

827Turun Linna (Turku) 164Villa Medici (Rome) 503Vorontsov Palace

(Odesa) 765Wawel Royal Castle

(Kraków) 699, 701Wilanów Palace

(Warsaw) 696Windsor Castle

(England) 68Würzburg Residenz

228-9Zwinger (Dresden) 218

cathedrals, see churches & cathedrals

cell phones 20, 854Central Europe 42, 47,

671-772, 672-3, see also individual countries

drinking 671food 671highlights 672-3

Cēsis 828-9, 829Český Krumlov 686-8, 687Cetinje 634-5Chamonix 344-5Champagne 339-41chateaux, see castles &

palacesCheckpoint Charlie 210Chişinău 736churches & cathedrals

Aachen 242Aleksander Nevski

Cathedral (Sofia) 739Alexander Nevsky

Orthodox Cathedral (Tallinn) 804-5

Basilica di San Giovanni in Laterano (Rome) 505

Basilica di San Marco (Venice) 474

Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute (Venice) 478

Basilica of St Stephen (Budapest) 714

Basilique du Sacré-Cœur (Paris) 314-15

Basilique Notre Dame de Fourvière (Lyon) 341

Catedral & Giralda (Seville) 425

Catedral (Burgos) 396Catedral de Santiago de

Compostela 401-2Catedral de Valencia

422-3Cathedral of Christ the

Saviour (Moscow) 784Cathedral of St Domnius

(Split) 607Cathedral of the

Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary (Zagreb) 602

Cathédrale de Notre Dame (Lausanne) 364

Cathédrale Notre Dame de Paris 314, 2

Cathédrale St-André (Bordeaux) 345

Cathédrale St-Jean- Baptiste (Lyon) 341-2

Chiesa di San Giorgio Maggiore (Venice) 478

Church of Our Lady Before Týn (Prague) 675

Church of the Saviour on the Spilled Blood (St Petersburg) 787, 792, 17

Dom (Salzburg) 297Domkyrka (Uppsala) 153Duomo (Florence) 487Église Notre-Dame du

Sablon (Brussels) 250Église St-Germain des

Prés (Paris) 310Frauenkirche (Dresden)

217Fraumünster (Zürich)

372Freiburger Münster 233Glasgow Cathedral 92Hallgrímskirkja

(Reykjavík) 185, 196Hofkirche (Innsbruck)

302Holy Spirit Lutheran

Church (Tallinn) 801I Frari (Venice) 478Igreja de São Francisco

(Porto) 465Kaiserdom (Frankfurt

am Main) 235Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

87 7IN

DEX C

-EKing’s College Chapel

(Cambridge) 76Kölner Dom (Cologne)

239La Catedral (Barcelona)

403La Sagrada Família

(Barcelona) 403, 404-5, 16, 404-5

Nativity of Christ Cathedral (Rīga) 820

Nidaros Domkirke (Trondheim) 180

Onze-Lieve- Vrouwekathedraal (Antwerp) 257

Onze-Lieve-Vrouwekerk (Bruges) 264

Rīga Cathedral 816Roskilde Domkirke 143Sainte-Chapelle (Paris)

314Salisbury Cathedral 68Sé (Braga) 468Sé (Évora) 458Sé (Porto) 465Sé Velha (Coimbra) 462Sistine Chapel 501St Anne’s Church

(Warsaw) 695-6St Canice’s Cathedral

(Kilkenny) 109-10St Mary’s Basilica

(Kraków) 701St Nicholas’ Cathedral

(Braşov) 731St Nicholas Church

(Prague) 680St Patrick’s Cathedral

(Dublin) 102-3St Paul’s Cathedral

(London) 58St Peter’s Basilica

(Rome) 500St Sophia’s Cathedral

(Kyiv) 762St Vitus Cathedral

(Prague) 674Stavropoleos Church

(Bucharest) 723Stephansdom (Vienna)

289Sveta Sofia Church

(Sofia) 742Turun Tuomiokirkko

(Turku) 164-5Vilnius Cathedral 834Wawel Cathedral

(Kraków) 701Westminster Abbey

(London) 52York Minster 77

Cinque Terre 494Çıralı 558climate 20, 27-31, see

also individual locationsclothing 22, 849clubbing 419coffee 320Coimbra 460-3, 462Cologne 239-42, 240-1Colosseum 495Connemara 120consulates 850Conwy 83Copenhagen 134-42,

138-9, 4accommodation 135, 140discount cards 134drinking 141food 140-1nightlife 141sights 134-5tourist information 141tours 135travel to/from 141-2travel within 142

Córdoba 429-31, 430, 34-5

Corfu 519-27, 522Corfu Town 522-6, 524-5Cork 111-14, 112costs 40-2credit cards 852Croatia 597-615, 584-5

accommodation 613-14activities 599budgeting 599climate 599food 583, 614highlights 584, 598holidays 614internet access 614internet resources 599itineraries 598language 599, 865-6money 614opening hours 614telephone services 614travel seasons 599travel to/from 599,

614-15travel within 599, 615

Croatian language 865-6Curonian Spit National

Park 844-5currency 20, 852customs regulations 850cycling 45, 859-60Czech language 866

Czech Republic 42, 674-91, 672-3

accommodation 689, 691

budgeting 677climate 677drinking 677food 677, 691highlights 676holidays 690internet resources 677itineraries 676language 677, 866money 690opening hours 690telephone services 690travel seasons 677travel to/from 677, 691travel within 677, 691

DDalí, Salvador 413dangers, see safetyDanish language 866Danube Valley 292Daugavpils 828David 491D-Day beaches 333debit cards 852Delft 277-8Delphi 536-7, 537Denmark 40, 134-46,

132-3accommodation 145budgeting 137climate 137food 137gay travellers 145highlights 136internet resources 137itineraries 136language 137, 866LGBT travellers 145money 145-6opening hours 146telephone services 146travel seasons 137travel to/from 137, 146travel within 137, 146

Derry 126-9, 127dervishes 568Dihovo 656disabilities, travellers with

855-6discount cards 39, see also

individual locationsDjerdap National Park 659Dracula 729

Dresden 217-20, 218drinking 24-5, 26, see also

individual locationsdriving, see car traveldrugs 851-2, 853Drvengrad 659Dublin 99-109, 104-5

accommodation 103, 105discount cards 99, 108drinking 106-7entertainment 107-8food 105-6nightlife 106-7sights 99, 102-3tourist information 108tours 103travel to/from 108travel within 108, 109

Dubrovnik 18, 609-13, 610-11, 18

Dune du Pilat 347Duomo (Florence) 487Durmitor National Park

634Düsseldorf 242-4, 243Dutch language 866

EEastern Europe 42, 47,


drinking 671food 671highlights 672-3

Edinburgh 84-9, 88, 86-7Eger 717-20Eiffel Tower 12, 310, 12El Escorial 392electricity 850embassies 850emergencies 21, 854, see

also individual locationsEngland 52-82, 50-1Épernay 340-1Ephesus 557Estonia 800-16, 774-5, 801

accommodation 815, 816budgeting 803climate 803food 803, 816highlights 802holidays 815internet resources 803itineraries 802language 803, 867telephone services 815tourist information

815-16

878

IND

EX E-G

Estonia continuedtravel seasons 803travel to/from 816travel within 803, 816websites 803

Estonian language 867etiquette 23, 849Eton 67-8events 27-31, 42Évora 458-9exchange rates 21exchanging money 852

Ffado 451farmstays 849Faro 454-5, 454ferry travel 181, 642festivals 27-31, 42, see also

individual locationsFierzë 642Finland 41, 158-70, 132-3


budgeting 161climate 161discount cards 169food 161highlights 160internet resources 161itineraries 160language 161, 867LGBT travellers 169money 169opening hours 169travel seasons 161travel to/from 161, 169travel within 161, 170weather 161

Finnish language 867Flåm 178-9flamenco 428, 431Florence 487-95, 488-9

accommodation 491-2drinking 493food 492nightlife 493sights 487, 490-1tourist information 493travel to/from 493travel within 495

food 23, 25, 850, see also individual locations

Formentera 418

fortressesAlcázar (Toledo) 390-1Alcázar de los Reyes

Cristianos (Córdoba) 429-30

Ayasuluk Fortress (Selçuk) 555-6

Barbican (Warsaw) 695Bock Casemates

(Luxembourg) 268-9Brest Fortress 766Citadela (Budva) 626Citadella (Budapest) 711Dubrovnik 609-10Eger Castle 717Festung Hohensalzburg

(Salzburg) 296-7Fort Sint Pieter

(Maastricht) 282Fortaleza de Sagres 457Golubac Fortress

(Djerdap National Park) 659

Kalemegdan Citadel (Belgrade) 658

Klis Fortress (Split) 607Niš Fortress 668Palaio Frourio (Corfu

Town) 523Peter & Paul Fortress (St

Petersburg) 792Petrovaradin Citadel

(Novi Sad) 666Suomenlinna (Helsinki)

159Town Walls (Kotor) 630Tsarevets Fortress

(Veliko Târnovo) 749Tvrdina Kale Fortress

(Skopje) 650Vyšehrad Citadel

(Prague) 681France 41, 47, 307, 310-58,

308-9accommodation 307,

356budgeting 313, 357climate 313drinking 313emergencies 307food 307, 313, 357highlights 308-9, 312holidays 357internet resources

313, 357itineraries 312language 313, 867money 357opening hours 357telephone services 357travel seasons 313

travel to/from 313, 357-8

travel within 313, 358visas 357

Frankfurt-am-Main 235-7Freiburg 233-5French language 867French Riviera 350-4fuel 860-1Füssen 226-7

GGalicia 402Galičnik 655 galleries 26, see also

museumsAlbertina (Vienna) 288Alte Pinakothek

(Munich) 223ARoS Aarhus

Kunstmuseum 144Astrup Fearnley Museet

(Oslo) 171Ateneum (Heksinki) 158Capitoline Museums

(Rome) 495, 500Centre Pompidou (Paris)

315Centro de Arte Reina

Sofía (Madrid) 380Design Museum

(Helsinki) 159Designmuseum Danmark

(Copenhagen) 134Dublin City Gallery –

the Hugh Lane 102Erarta Museum of

Contemporary Art (St Petersburg) 792

Ermita de San Antonio de la Florida (Madrid) 381

Fondation Beyeler (Basel) 371

Galleria degli Uffizi (Florence) 487, 490, 496-7, 496-7

Galleria dell’Accademia (Florence) 490

Galleria Doria Pamphilj (Rome) 503

Gallerie dell’Accademia (Venice) 474

Garage Museum of Contemporary Art (Moscow) 777

Groeningemuseum (Bruges) 263-4

Hamburger Kunsthalle (Hamburg) 245

Hermitage Amsterdam 271-3

Hermitage (St Petersburg) 787, 788-9, 788-9

Hungarian National Gallery (Budapest) 710-11

İstanbul Modern 561K20 Grabbeplatz

(Düsseldorf) 242-3K21 Ständehaus

(Düsseldorf) 243Kadriorg Art Museum

(Tallinn) 806Kelvingrove Art Gallery &

Museum (Glasgow) 91Klimt Villa (Vienna) 290Kunsthaus (Zürich) 373Kunsthaus Graz 295Kunsthistorisches

Museum Vienna 290Kunstmuseum Basel 371La Piscine Musée d’Art

et d’Industrie (Lille) 329

Leopold Museum (Vienna) 289-90

Louisiana (Copenhagen) 135

Louvre-Lens 329MACBA (Barcelona)

403-8Manchester Art

Gallery 80Meštrović Gallery (Split)

607MK Čiurlionis National

Museum of Art (Kaunas) 840

Montenegrin Art Gallery (Cetinje) 635

MUMOK (Vienna) 290Munchmuseet (Oslo) 174Musée Cantonal des

Beaux Arts (Lausanne) 364

Musée d’Art Moderne, d’Art Contemporain et d’Art Brut - LaM (Lille) 329

Musée des Beaux-Arts (Lyon) 342-3

Musée d’Orsay (Paris) 311

Musée du Louvre (Paris) 314, 322-3, 322-3

Musée Guimet des Arts Asiatiques (Paris) 315

Musée Magritte (Brussels) 251

Musée Marmotan Monet (Paris) 315

Musée Matisse (Nice) 351-2


879IN

DEX G

-H Musée National Picasso

(Paris) 315Musée Rodin (Paris) 310Musées Royaux des

Beaux-Arts (Brussels) 250-1

Museo Carmen Thyssen (Málaga) 439

Museo del Bargello (Florence) 490

Museo del Prado (Madrid) 380, 388-9, 388-9

Museo e Galleria Borghese (Rome) 503

Museo Guggenheim Bilbao 395

Museo Novecento (Florence) 490-1

Museo Picasso Málaga 439

Museo Thyssen- Bornemisza (Madrid) 380

Museu Calouste Gulbenkian – Coleção do Fundado (Lisbon) 448

Museu Nacional d’Art de Catalunya (Barcelona) 408

Museu Nacional de Arte Antiga (Lisbon) 448

Museu Picasso (Barcelona) 403

Museum der Bildenden Künste (Leipzig) 220

Museum der Moderne (Salzburg) 299

Museum het Rembrandthuis

(Amsterdam) 271Museum Jean Tinguely

(Basel) 371-2Museum Ludwig

(Cologne) 240Museum of

Contemporary Art (Belgrade) 659

Museum of Contemporary Art (Zagreb) 601

Museum of Islamic Art (Athens) 531

Museum of New Art (Pärnu) 813

Nasjonalgalleriet (Oslo) 171

National Gallery (Dublin) 102

National Gallery (London) 53

National Gallery of Arts (Tirana) 637

National Gallery of Macedonia (Skopje) 650

National Gallery of Slovenia (Ljubljana) 586

National Portrait Gallery (London) 53

Neue Galerie Graz 295Neue Pinakothek

(Munich) 223New Tretyakov Gallery

(Moscow) 777Palais des Beaux Arts

(Lille) 328Peggy Guggenheim

Collection (Venice) 475

Pushkin Museum of Fine Arts (Moscow) 777

Reykjavík Art Museum – Hafnarhús 184

Rīga Art Nouveau Museum 820

Rijksmuseum (Amsterdam) 271

Rubenshuis (Antwerp) 258

State Hermitage Museum (St Petersburg) 787, 788-9, 788-9

Statens Museum for Kunst (Copenhagen) 135

Street Art Museum (St Petersburg) 793

Tate Britain (London) 52Tate Modern (London)

58Van Gogh Museum

(Amsterdam) 271Vatican Museums 495,

500-1Vermeer Centrum Delft

278Victoria & Albert

Museum (London) 59Whitworth Art Gallery

(Manchester) 80Witte de With Centre

for Contemporary Art (Rotterdam) 279

Zentrum Paul Klee (Bern) 367

Galway 117-20, 118Gammel Skagen 145gardens, see parks &

gardensgas 860-1gay travellers 852, see also

individual countries

Geirangerfjorden 179-80Geneva 358-62, 359Georgia 42, 718, 672-3, 719German language 867-8Germany 41, 46, 201, 204-

50, 202-3accommodation 249budgeting 207climate 207drinking 207emergencies 201food 207, 249highlights 202-3, 206holidays 249internet resources 207itineraries 206language 207, 867-8LGBT travellers 249money 249opening hours 249travel seasons 207travel to/from 207,

249-50travel within 207, 249-50

Geysir 191Ghent 260-2, 260Giant’s Causeway 126, 3Girona 411-12Gjirokastra 644-5Glacier Express 365Glasgow 90-3, 90-1Glastonbury 69gluten-free travellers 319Göreme 575-8Gorky Park 777Gospa od Škrpjela 633Göteborg 153-4Gotland 155Granada 431-6, 432Grand Canal (Venice)

484-5, 484-5Grasmere 81Graz 293-5, 294Great Britain 39-42, 46,


accommodation 49, 96, 97

budgeting 55climate 55drinking 49emergencies 49food 55, 97highlights 50-1, 54, 95holidays 97internet resources 55, 96itineraries 54LGBT travellers 96

money 49opening hours 97telephone services 97travel seasons 55travel to/from 55, 97-8travel within 55, 98-9visas 49

Greece 41, 47, 471, 519-50, 472-3

accommodation 547activities 471archaeological sites 471budgeting 521children, travel with 549climate 521consulates 548customs regulations 547embassies 548emergencies 548etiquette 548food 521, 549highlights 472-3, 520holidays 549internet access 548internet resources 521itineraries 520language 521, 868LGBT travellers 548money 548opening hours 548-9safety 547-8telephone services

548, 549travel seasons 521travel to/from 521, 550travel within 521, 550visas 549-50

Greek language 868Grenen 145Grindelwald 369Gullfoss 191

HHadrian’s Wall 81Hallstatt 301hamams 551, 561Hamburg 244-8, 246-7Hardangerfjord 180health 850-1Heidelberg 232-3Hellenic Festival 29Helsingør 142-3Helsinki 158-64, 162-3Hercegovina, see Bosnia &

HercegovinaHermitage (St Petersburg)

787, 788-9, 788-9

880

IND

EX H-L

High Tatras 690, 25highlights 10-19, see also

individual countrieshiking 168, 458

Cinque Terre 494Delphi 536-7Dubrovnik 612Ihlara Valley 576Kerry Way 115Ladder of Cattaro 631Lofoten 181Santorini 539Split 607

Hill of Crosses 843historical sites 26, see

also archaeological sites

hitching 862-3Hitler, Adolf 205, 297Hitler’s Bunker 205Hohe Tauern National

Park 303holidays 853, see also

individual countrieshomestays 849hostels 849hot baths 711, 15, see

also hamams, saunashot-air ballooning, see

ballooninghotels 849-50Hungarian language 868Hungary 42, 707-21,


721budgeting 709climate 709drinking 709food 709, 714, 721highlights 708holidays 720-1internet resources 709itineraries 708language 709, 868money 720opening hours 720telephone services 721travel seasons 709travel to/from 709, 721travel within 709, 721

Hurtigruten 181Húsavík 198-9Hvar Island 608

IIbiza 418-20, 419Iceland 41, 184-200, 132-3

accommodation 199budgeting 187climate 187food 187highlights 186internet resources 187itineraries 186language 187LGBT travellers 199money 199opening hours 199telephone services 199travel seasons 187travel to/from 187, 200travel within 187, 200

Ihlara Valley 576, 577immigration 20, 856Inari 167Innsbruck 301-4, 302insurance

car 861health 851travel 851

Interlaken 368internet access 851, see

also individual countriesinternet resources 21, 38,

851, see also individual countries

Inverness 94-5Ireland 39, 46, 99-130,

50-1accommodation 129budgeting 101climate 101discount cards 99, 121food 101, 130highlights 50-1, 100, 128holidays 129-30internet resources

101, 129itineraries 100language 101LGBT travellers 129opening hours 129telephone services 130travel seasons 101travel to/from 101, 130travel within 101, 130

islands 24Isle of Skye 95-6İstanbul 16, 558-68, 559,

562, 564-5, 16accommodation 563,

566drinking 567

food 563, 566-7sights 558-63tourist information 567tours 563travel to/from 567travel within 567-8

Italian language 868Italy 41, 47, 471, 474-519,

472-3accommodation 515activities 471budgeting 477, 515children, travel with 517climate 477consulates 515discount cards 515drinking 477electricity 515embassies 515emergencies 515etiquette 515food 477, 516highlights 472-3, 476holidays 516-17internet ressources 477itineraries 476language 477, 868legal issues 516LGBT travellers 515-16money 516opening hours 516telephone services

515, 517time 517tourist information 517travel seasons 477travel to/from 477, 518travel within 477, 518-19visas 518

itineraries 32-7, 32, 35, 36-7, see also individual countries

JJajce 621Janče 655Jewish museums & sites,

see also synagogues

Anne Frank Huis 271Auschwitz-Birkenau


Galicia Jewish Museum (Kraków) 702

Holocaust Museum (Vilnius) 835

Hungarian Jewish Museum & Archives (Budapest) 713

Jewish Cemetery (Warsaw) 696

Jewish Museum (Moscow) 785

Jewish Museum (Prague) 674

Jüdisches Museum (Berlin) 213

Museu d’Història dels Jueus (Girona) 412

Museum of the History of Polish Jews (Warsaw) 696

Prague Jewish Museum 674

Schindler’s Factory (Kraków) 702

John Lennon Wall 680Jökulsárgljúfur 194, 195Jökulsárlón 193Julian Alps 593Jungfraujoch 369Jūrmala 824-6

KKaleiçi 551, 554Kaliningrad 795-6, 796Kalithea Thermi 546Kaunas 840-3, 841Kilkenny 109-11, 110Killarney 115-16, 116Kiruna 156-7Kitzbühel 304-5Klagenfurt 296Klaipėda 843-4, 844Köln 239-42Koman 642Konjic 621Konya 571-3, 572Koprivshtitsa 748-9, 2Kosovo 42, 657, 657Kotor 19, 630-2, 631, 19Kraków 699-706, 700Kremlin, the 776, 780-1,

780-1Kruševo 647Kuldīga 825Kurshskaya Kosa National

Park 797Kutná Hora 685-6Kyiv 757-64, 760-1

LLa Rambla (Barcelona)

402La Sagrada Família

(Barcelona) 403, 404-5, 16, 404-5

Lagos 455-7, 456


881IN

DEX L-M

Lahemaa National Park

807Lake Balaton 715Lake Bled 592Lake District National Park

81-2, 4Lake Ohrid 654Lakeland 166-7Landmannalaugar 193-4languages 20, 865-72Lapland 167-8, 197Las Fallas de San José 424Latvia 816-31, 774-5,

820-1accommodation 830budgeting 819climate 819food 819, 830highlights 818holidays 830internet resources 819,

830itineraries 818language 819, 869telephone services 830travel seasons 819travel to/from 830-1travel within 819, 831

Latvian language 869Lausanne 362-5, 363Le Mur des Je t’aime 314Lefkimmi 526legal matters 851-2Legoland 142Leipzig 220-2, 221Lens 329León 399-400lesbian travellers 852Leuven 257LGBT travellers 852, see

also individual countriesLille 328-32Lindos 546-7Lisbon 17, 443-50,

446-7, 17literature 21Lithuania 831-46, 774-5,

834accommodation 845budgeting 833climate 833food 833highlights 832holidays 845internet resources 833,

845itineraries 832language 833, 869LGBT travellers 845

telephone services 846travel seasons 833travel to/from 846travel within 833, 846

Lithuanian language 869Ljubljana 586-92, 590Locarno 374Loch Lomond 94Loch Ness 94-5Lofoten Islands 181-2, 182,

196-7Loire Valley 336-9London 11, 52-67, 56-7, 62,

64, 66, 10-11, 60-1accommodation 62-3drinking 63-5entertainment 65food 63nightlife 63-5sights 52, 58-9tourist information 65-6travel to/from 66travel within 66-7

Londonderry 126-9, 127Los Sanfermines 396Louvre Museum 314, 322-3,

322-3Lovćen National Park

633-4Lübeck 248Lucerne 369-71Lukomir Village 620Luxembourg 201, 252-3,

268-70, 202-3Luxembourg City 41, 268-

70, 269Lviv 764-8Lyon 341-4, 342-3Lysefjord 175

MMaastricht 281-3Macedonia 647-58, 584-5


budgeting 649climate 649drinking 649food 649, 658highlights 648holidays 658internet access 656internet resources 649itineraries 648language 649, 869money 656opening hours 658telephone services 658

travel seasons 649travel to/from 658travel within 649, 658

Macedonian language 869

Mackintosh, Charles Rennie 93

Madrid 380-1, 384-90, 384-5

accommodation 381drinking 386-7entertainment 387, 390food 381, 386nightlife 386-7sights 380-1tourist information 390travel to/from 390travel within 390

Málaga 439-41, 440Mallorca 413-16, 413Manchester 80-1Maršal Tito’s Mausoleum

659Marseille 346-8Matterhorn 18, 366, 18Mavrovo National Park

655memorials & monuments

Auschwitz-Birkenau Memorial & Museum 704

Beaumont-Hamel Newfoundland Memorial (Somme) 332

Ćele Kula (Niš) 668Fishermen’s Bastion

(Budapest) 711Gedenkstätte Berliner

Mauer (Berlin) 210-11Holocaust Memorial

(Berlin) 204-5Ilinden Uprising

Monument (Kruševo) 647

Kościuszko Mound (Kraków) 702

Ring of Remembrance (Somme) 332

Vimy Ridge Canadian National Historic Site (Somme) 332-3

Menorca 418, 417Messonghi 526Meteora 538Mezquita 429, 34-5Minsk 766Mittelland 366-9mobile phones 20, 854Moldova 42, 736, 672-3,

737

Monaco 354-6, 355monasteries

Abbaye du Mont St-Michel 334

Batalha 461Bucovina painted

monasteries 728Capuchin Monastery

(Brno) 688Cetinje Monastery 635Convento de Cristo

(Tomar) 461Dominican Monastery &

Museum (Dubrovnik) 612

Franciscan Monastery & Museum (Dubrovnik) 612

Gračanica 657Kyevo-Pecherska Lavra

(Kyiv) 762Meteora monasteries

538Mosteiro de Santa Maria

de Alcobaça (Alcobaça) 461

Mosteiro dos Jerónimos (Lisbon) 448

Ostrog Monastery (Zeta Valley) 635

Rila Monastery 747, 771

St Michael’s Golden- Domed Monastery (Kyiv) 762

Visoki Dečani 657money 20, 21, 23, 852-3

bargaining 849tipping 23, 849

Mons 266-7Montenegro 626-37,


636budgeting 629climate 629food 583, 629, 636highlights 584-5, 628holidays 636internet access 636internet resources

629itineraries 628language 629money 636opening hours 636telephone services 636travel seasons 629travel to/from 636-7travel within 629, 637

Mont St-Michel 334

882

IND

EX M

monuments, see memorials & monuments

Moraïtika 526Moravia 688-9Morocco, travel to 438Moscow 776-87, 782-3

accommodation 784-5drinking 785entertainment 786food 785nightlife 785shopping 786sights 776-7, 780-1, 784tourist information 786tours 784, 786travel to/from 786travel within 786-7

mosquesAya Sofya (İstanbul)

558-9Blue Mosque (İstanbul)

559Et’hem Bey Mosque

(Tirana) 641Ferhadija Mosque (Banja

Luka) 621Mezquita (Córdoba) 429,

34-5Painted Mosque (Tetovo)

647Roznamedži

Ibrahimefendi Mosque (Mostar) 623

Süleymaniye Mosque (İstanbul) 560

Mostar 622-4, 622motorcycle travel 860-2mountains

Accursed Mountains 642Harder Kulm 368High Tatras 690Julian Alps 593Matterhorn 18, 366, 18Rila Mountains 747Rugova Mountains 657

Mozart, Wolfgang Amadeus 297, 298

Munich 222-6, 224-5museums 26, 158, see also

archaeological museums, Jewish museums & sites, galleries

Acropolis Museum (Athens) 527

Antalya Museum 551Apple Museum (Prague)

680Ashmolean Museum

(Oxford) 72Auschwitz-Birkenau


Aya Sofya (İstanbul) 558-9

Bach-Museum Leipzig 221

Benaki Museum (Athens) 530

BMW Museum (Munich) 223

British Museum (London) 53

Byzantine & Christian Museum (Athens) 530

Chopin Museum (Warsaw) 695

City Museum (Tallinn) 801

Ephesus Museum (Selçuk) 555

Estonian National Museum 810-11

Galway City Museum 117Göreme Open-Air

Museum 575Haus der Musik (Vienna)

289Historisches Grünes

Gewölbe (Dresden) 219

History Museum of Lithuania Minor 843

Hospital de los Venerables Sacerdotes (Seville) 425-6

Hôtel des Invalides (Paris) 310

Icelandic Phallological Museum (Reykjavík) 185

Institut du Monde Arabe (Paris) 311

Jorvik Viking Centre (York) 78

Kaiserliche Schatzkamme (Vienna) 288

KGB Cells Museum (Tartu) 812

La Cité du Vin (Bordeaux) 345-6

Lithuania Sea Museum 844

Little Museum of Dublin 102

Lvivarnya (Lviv) 765

Maritime Museum of Montenegro (Kotor) 630

Medieval Mile Museum (Kilkenny) 110

Memorial House of Mother Teresa (Skopje 651

Mevlâna Museum (Konya) 571

Mons Memorial Museum 266

Mozart’s Geburtshaus (Salzburg) 297

Mozart-Wohnhaus (Salzburg) 298

M/S Museet for Søfart (Helsingør) 142-3

MSK (Ghent) 261Mucha Museum (Prague)

681Mudam (Luxembourg)

270Musée des Civilisations

de l’Europe et de la Méditerranée (Marseille) 347

Musée des Confluences (Lyon) 343

Musée d’Histoire de la Ville de Luxembourg 269

Musée du Doudou (Mons) 266-7

Musée du Petit Palais (Avignon) 349

Musée du Quai Branly (Paris) 310

Musée Masséna (Nice) 351

Musée Mémorial de la Bataille de Normandie (Bayeux) 334

Musée National du Moyen Âge (Paris) 311

Museo Correr (Venice) 474-5

Museo de Bellas Artes (Bilbao) 395

Museo de Bellas Artes (Seville) 427

Museo de Cádiz 436Museo de la Evolución

Humana (Burgos) 396

Museo Nazionale Etrusco di Villa Giulia (Rome) 503, 505

Museu Fundación Juan March (Palma de Mallorca) 416

Museum Boijmans van Beuningen (Rotterdam) 279

Museum of Anatolian Civilisations (Ankara) 568

Museum of Broken Relationships (Zagreb) 601

Museum of Prehistoric Thera (Santorini) 539

Museum of Science & Industry (Manchester) 80

Museum of the Ninth Fort (Kaunas) 840

Museum of the Romanian Peasant (Bucharest) 723

Museum of Vojvodina (Novi Sad) 666

Museum of Wooden Artefacts & Stone Carving (Konya) 572

Museum of Yugoslavia (Belgrade) 659

MuseumsQuartier (Vienna) 289

National History Museum (Tirana) 637, 641

National Museum (Belgrade) 662

National Museum (Prague) 680-1

National Museum (Reykjavík) 185

National Museum (Sarajevo) 615

National Museum and Memorial to the Victims of Occupation (Lviv) 765

National Museum Cardiff 82

National Museum of Ireland – Decorative Arts & History (Dublin) 102

National Museum of Lithuania (Vilnius) 834

National Museum of Scotland (Edinburgh) 85

National Museum of Slovenia (Ljubljana) 586-7

National Museum (Ohrid) 654

National Railway Museum (York) 77-8

Nationalmuseet (Copenhagen) 134

Natural History Museum (London) 59

Neues Museum (Berlin) 205


883IN

DEX M

-N

Nikola Tesla Museum (Belgrade) 659

Nobelmuseet (Stockholm) 147

Olympic Museum (Lausanne) 364

Onufri Museum (Berat) 643

Oslekov House (Koprivshtitsa) 748

Palacio de Viana (Córdoba) 429

Palais du Tau (Reims) 339-40

Palazzo Ducale (Venice) 474

Palazzo Vecchio (Florence) 487

People’s History Museum (Manchester) 80

Pera Museum (İstanbul) 561-3

Pergamonmuseum (Berlin) 205

Pitt Rivers Museum (Oxford) 72

Polaria (Tromsø) 182-3Ragnarock (Roskilde)

143Rīga History &

Navigation Museum 817

Riverside Museum (Glasgow) 91

Rockheim (Trondheim) 180

Römisch-Germanisches Museum (Cologne) 239-40

Russian Museum (St Petersburg) 787

Rynek Underground (Krawków) 701

Salisbury Museum 68-9

Salzburg Museum 298Sammlung Rosengart

(Lucerne) 370San Telmo Museoa (San

Sebastián) 392Schokoladenmuseum

(Cologne) 240-1Science Centre AHHAA

(Tartu) 811Science Museum

(London) 59Scuola Grande di San

Rocco (Venice) 474Sergej Mašera Maritime

Museum (Piran) 595-6Sir John Soane’s

Museum (London) 58

Skansen (Stockholm) 147

Skógar Folk Museum 193

Southern Fortress Wall & Tower Museum (Sozopol) 754

Stasi Museum (Leipzig) 220

Svrzo House (Sarajevo) 619

Tiroler Landesmuseum Ferdinandeum (Innsbruck) 303

Titanic Belfast 121Tower Museum (Derry/

Londonderry) 127Tunnel Museum

(Sarajevo) 615, 619Ulster Folk Museum

(Belfast) 121Universeum (Göteborg)

154University of Tartu

Museum 810Vasamuseet

(Stockholm) 147Viking Ship Museum

(Roskilde) 143Vikingskipshuset (Oslo)

171Vitra Campus (Weil am

Rhein) 370Wales Millennium Centre

(Cardiff) 82War Childhood Museum

(Sarajevo) 619War Photo Limited

(Dubrovnik) 611Warsaw Rising Museum

(Warsaw) 696Yorkshire Museum (York)

78-9music 26, see also

individual music stylesMývatn 195, 198

Nnational parks & reserves,

see also parks & gardens

Belavezhskaya Pushcha National Park 766

Connemara National Park 120

Curonian Spit National Park 844-5

Djerdap National Park 659

Durmitor National Park 634

Hohe Tauern National Park 303

Ķemeri National Park 825

Killarney National Park 115

Kurshskaya Kosa National Park 797

Lahemaa National Park 807

Lake District National Park 81-2

Lovćen National Park 633-4

Marjan Forest Park 607Mavrovo National Park

655Mt Dajti National Park

641Parque Nacional da

Peneda-Gerês 468-9, 469

Parque Nacional de los Picos de Europa 400

Pelister National Park 656

Plitvice Lakes National Park 604

Skaftafell 194, 194Snowdonia National

Park 83-4Sutjeska National Park

620Tara National Park 659Vatnajökull National Park

(Jökulsárgljúfur) 194Žemaitija National Park

845Þingvellir National

Park 191Nazaré 460Nesebâr 751Netherlands 41, 201, 271-

83, 202-3accommodation 253,

283budgeting 253climate 253emergencies 201food 253highlights 202-3, 252internet resources 253itineraries 252language 253, 866opening hours 283travel seasons 253travel to/from 283travel within 283

New Holland 792Nice 350-2, 351nightlife 24-5, see also

individual locationsNiš 667-9

Normandy 333-4Norrland 155-7Northern Ireland 120-9northern lights 183, 197Norway 41, 170-84, 132-3

accommodation 183, 184budgeting 173climate 173drinking 173food 173highlights 172internet resources 173itineraries 172language 173, 869LGBT travellers 183money 183opening hours 184telephone services 184travel seasons 173travel to/from 184travel within 173, 184

Norwegian language 869notable buildings

Alhambra (Granada) 414-15, 432-4, 414-15

Anne Hathaway’s Cottage (Stratford- upon-Avon) 75

Arc de Triomphe (Paris) 315

Belfort (Ghent) 261Blackheads House (Rīga)

817, 34Brandenburger Tor

(Berlin) 204Capilla Real (Granada)

434Casa Batlló (Barcelona)

403Casa de Pilatos (Seville)

426Cat House (Rīga) 817Chester Beatty Library

(Dublin) 102Ciudad de las Artes y las

Ciencias (Valencia) 423

Eiffel Tower (Paris) 310Houses of Parliament

(London) 52La Lonja (Valencia) 421La Pedrera (Barcelona)

403Le Clos Lucé (Amboise)

338-9Linnahall (Tallinn) 806Livraria Lello (Porto) 466Lotrščak Tower (Zagreb)

601Minaret (Eger) 718

884

IND

EX N- P

notable buildings continued

Municipal House (Prague) 675

National & University Library (Ljubljana) 586

Old Library & Book of Kells (Dublin) 99

Old Town Hall (Brno) 688Palace of Parliament

(Bucharest) 722-3Palace of the Grand

Master (Rhodes) 544Palácio da Bolsa (Porto)

465Panteón Real (León) 399Panthéon (Paris) 311Parliament & Changing

of the Guard (Athens) 531

Parliament (Budapest) 714

Pyramid (Tirana) 641Quinta da Regaleira

(Sintra) 450-1Rathaus (Hamburg) 245Real Mary King’s Close

(Edinburgh) 84Reichstag (Berlin) 204Roman Baths (Bath) 69Romanian Athenaeum

(Bucharest) 723Royal Crescent (Bath)

69-70Sarajevo City Hall 615Scottish Parliament

(Edinburgh) 85Shakespeare’s Birthplace

(Stratford-upon-Avon) 74-5

Shakespeare’s Globe (London) 59

Stadshuset (Stockholm) 147

Stari Grad (Budvar) 626Strahov Library (Prague)

675, 770Tallinn Town Hall 800Tower of London 58Trinity College

(Dublin) 99Universidad Civil

(Salamanca) 398-9Vilnius University 835Zekate House

(Gjirokastra) 645Novi Pazar 665

Novi Sad 666-7Nuremberg 229-32, 230

OÓbidos 459-60Odesa 765Ohrid 652-6, 653Oia 541Oktoberfest 30, 223Olympos 558opening hours 21, 853,


Oslo 170, 174-5, 170-1Östersund 155-6Oxford 72-4, 73oysters 336

Ppaella 425palaces, see castles &

palacesPalatino (Rome) 12,

500, 13Palazzo Vecchio 487Paleokastritsa 526Palma de Mallorca 413, 416Pamplona 396papier mâché 424Paris 310-28, 316-17, 321,

324-5, 2, 12, 23accommodation 318discount cards 311drinking 320-1, 326-7entertainment 327food 318-20nightlife 320-1, 326-7sights 310-15, 323-5tourist information 327travel to/from 327travel within 327-8

parks & gardensCave Hill Country Park

121, 123Englischer Garten

(Munich) 223Gorky Park (Moscow)

777Jardin des Tuileries

(Paris) 314Jardin du Luxembourg

(Paris) 310-11Jardines del Turia

(Valencia) 423Jardins do Palácio de

Cristal (Porto) 466Kadriorg Park (Tallinn)

806Keukenhof (Lisse) 277

Łazienki Park (Warsaw) 695

Mon Repos Estate (Corfu Town) 523

Park Güell (Barcelona) 403

Park Zaryadye 776Parque del Buen Retiro

(Madrid) 380Primorski Park (Varna)

752Punta Corrente Forest

Park (Rovinj) 604Tivoli Gardens

(Copenhagen) 134Topčider Park (Belgrade)

663Vingis Park (Vilnius) 831Vondelpark (Amsterdam)

273Pärnu 813-15, 814Parque Nacional da Peneda-

Gerês 468-9, 469passports 20, 856Pelister National Park 656péniches 344Perast 632-3Peterhof 795Petriti 526petrol 860-1pickpockets 853-4Picos de Europa 400Pine Cone Train 350Piran 595-6, 33pizza 505planning, see also

individual countriesbudgeting 21, 38-42calendar of events 27-31checklist 22Europe basics 20-1Europe’s regions 46-7internet resources 21,

38, 851itineraries 32-7, 32, 35,

36-7travel seasons 20, 27-31

Plitvice Lakes 604Plovdiv 745-8, 746Poland 42, 691-707,

672-3accommodation 706budgeting 693climate 693drinking 693food 693, 706highlights 672, 692holidays 706internet resources 693itineraries 692

language 693, 870money 706opening hours 706telephone services 706-7travel seasons 693travel to/from 707travel within 693, 707

Polish language 870Pompeii 510-11, 512,

510-11Pont du Gard 349Porto 463-8, 464-5Portugal 41, 47, 377, 443-

70, 378-9accommodation 377,

469, 470budgeting 445climate 445discount cards 469emergencies 377food 377, 445highlights 378-9, 444holidays 470internet resources 445itineraries 444language 445, 870LGBT travellers 470money 470opening hours 470telephone services 470travel seasons 445travel to/from 470travel within 445, 470

Portuguese language 870Porvoo 164postal services 853Postojna 592Potsdam 216Prado Museum (Madrid)

380, 388-9, 388-9Prague 14, 674-85, 678-9,

682, 14, 770-1accommodation 681drinking 683entertainment 683-4food 681-3nightlife 683sights 674-5, 680-1tourist information 684travel to/from 684travel within 684-5

Preikestolen 175, 7Pristina 657Provence 346-50public holidays 853Pushkin (Tsarskoe Selo)

795Pyla-sur-Mer 347


885IN

DEX Q

-S QQuimper 335

Rracism 853rafting 593rail passes 44, 863Red Square 776Reims 339-40rembetika 534Reykjavík 184-5, 188-90,

188-9, 196Rhine River 237-8,

236-7Rhodes 542-7, 543Rhodes Town 542-6,

544-5Riesenrad 290Rīga 816-24, 822


drinking 823-4entertainment 824food 823nightlife 823-4sights 816-17, 820-1tourist information 824tours 821travel to/from 824travel within 824

Ring of Kerry 116-17Rock of Cashel 113Roman Forum 500, 508-9,

508-9Roman ruins, see

archaeological sitesRomania 42, 722-39, 672-3,

722accommodation 738budgeting 725climate 725drinking 725food 725, 738highlights 724holidays 738internet resources 725itineraries 724language 725, 870money 738opening hours 738telephone services 738travel seasons 725travel to/from 739travel within 725, 739

Romanian language 870Romantic Rhine Valley

237-8, 236-7Romantic Road 226-9

Rome 12, 495-515, 498-9, 502, 504, 506-7, 13

accommodation 505-7discount cards 503drinking 513food 507, 512-13nightlife 513opening hours 516safety 514sights 495, 497, 500-3,

505tourist information

514travel to/from 514travel within 514-15

Ronda 441-2Roskilde 143-4Rothenburg ob der Tauber

227-8Rotterdam 279-81, 280Rovaniemi 167-8Rovinj 603-5Royal Mile (Edinburgh)

86-7, 86-7Running of the Bulls

(Pamplona) 396Russia 42, 47, 776-800,

774-5accommodation 797, 798budgeting 779climate 779food 779, 798highlights 774-5, 778holidays 798internet resources 779itineraries 778language 779, 870-1LGBT travellers 797money 798opening hours 797safety 798telephone services 798travel seasons 779travel to/from 799travel within 779,

799-800visas 798-9

Russian language 870-1

SSacromonte 434safety 23, 853-4, see

also individual locations

hitching 862-3road 862train travel 864

Sagres 457-8Salamanca 397-9, 398

Salisbury 68-9Salzburg 296-300, 298Salzkammergut 300-1Salzwelten 301San Sebastián 392-4,

393, 4Santa Claus Village 169Santiago de Compostela

400-2, 401Santorini 14, 539-42,

540, 14Sarajevo 615, 618-21, 618saunas 158Savonlinna 166-7scams 854Scandinavia 40-1, 46,



Schengen Agreement 855Schindler, Oskar 702Schloss Hohenschwangau

227Schloss Neuschwanstein

227Scotland 84-96, 50-1Selçuk 555-8, 556Serbia 658-70, 584-5


activities 661budgeting 661climate 661food 583, 699highlights 584-5, 660holidays 669internet access 669internet resources 661itineraries 660language 661, 865-6money 669opening hours 669telephone services 669travel seasons 661travel to/from 670travel within 661, 670

Serbian language 865-6Serra da Estrela 466Seville 425-9, 426Seyðisfjörður 198Shakespeare, William 74Sighişoara 734-7, 735Sigulda 826-8, 826SIM cards 854Sintra 450-1Sistine Chapel 501Skaftafell 194, 194

Skagen 145Skellig Michael 117Skógar 193Skopje 647, 650-2, 650Slovak language 871Slovakia 42, 690, 672-3Slovene language 871Slovenia 42, 586-97,

584-5, 587accommodation 596,

597budgeting 589climate 589drinking 589food 589highlights 584, 588holidays 597internet access 596internet resources 589itineraries 588language 589, 871money 596opening hours 597telephone services 597travel seasons 589travel to/from 589, 597travel within 589, 597weather 589

smoking 849Snowdonia National Park

83-4Sofia 739, 742-5, 742-3Sognefjorden 178-9Somme, the 332-3Sozopol 754-6, 755Spain 41, 47, 377-443,


442budgeting 383climate 383discount cards 442emergencies 377food 377, 380, 383highlights 378-9, 382holidays 442-3internet resources 383itineraries 382language 383, 871LGBT travellers 442money 442opening hours 442telephone services 443travel seasons 383travel to/from 443travel within 383, 443

Spanish language 871Split 605-9, 606St Goar 237-8

886

IND

EX S-U

St Goarshausen 237-8St Peter’s Basilica (Rome)

500St Petersburg 17, 787-95,

790-1, 17accommodation 793activities 793drinking 794entertainment 794food 794nightlife 794sights 787-93tourist information

794tours 793travel to/from 794, 795travel within 795

Stavanger 175-6St-Malo 335-6Stockholm 146-53, 150-1,

196accommodation 147, 152activities 147drinking 152food 152sights 146-7tourist information 153travel to/from 153travel within 153

Stonehenge 68-9Stratford-upon-Avon 74-6Štrbské Pleso 690Strelka 792-3St-Tropez 353-4Subotica 665Sveti Djordje 633Sweden 40, 146-58, 132-3

accommodation 157budgeting 149climate 149discount cards 157food 149highlights 148internet resources 149itineraries 148language 149, 871-2LGBT travellers 157money 157opening hours 157telephone services 157travel seasons 149travel to/from 157-8travel within 149, 157-8

Swedish language 871-2

Switzerland 41, 47, 307, 358-76, 308-9

accommodation 374activities 361budgeting 361climate 361electricity 374emergencies 307food 375highlights 308-9, 360holidays 375internet resources 361,

374-5itineraries 360language 361money 375opening hours 375telephone services

307, 375travel seasons 361travel to/from 375-6travel within 361, 376visas 375

synagoguesGreat Synagogue

(Budapest) 713Sinagoga del Tránsito

(Toledo) 390

TTallinn 17, 800-1, 804-10,

804-5, 17accommodation 808activities 807-8drinking 808-9entertainment 809food 808nightlife 808-9sights 800-1, 804-7tourist information 809tours 807-8travel to/from 809travel within 809-10

tapas 380Tara National Park 659Tarifa 438-9Tartu 810-13, 811taxes 853taxis 863-4Tbilisi 718teahouses 435telephone services 20, 854terrorism 854teterías 435Thames River 60-1, 60-1theft 853-4Theth 642Ticino 373-4time 20, 854-5

tipping 23, 849Tirana 637, 640-3, 640Tiraspol 736toilets 855Toledo 390-2, 391Touraine region 338tourist information 855,


tours, see individual locations

train travelrail passes 44, 863safety 864to/from Europe 858within Europe 44, 863,

864Trakai 839-40Transdniestr 736Transylvania 19, 729-37,

730-1, 19travel to/from Europe 21,

858-9travel within Europe 43-5,

859-64travellers cheques 853trekking, see hikingTriberg 233Trier 238-9Tromsø 182-3Trondheim 180-1tulips 277Turkey 41, 47, 471, 550-82,

472-3accommodation 578activities 471budgeting 553children, travel with 580climate 553consulates 578drinking 553electricity 578embassies 578emergencies 579food 553, 566, 573, 579highlights 472-3, 552holidays 580internet resources 553itineraries 552language 553, 872LGBT travellers 579money 579opening hours 579safety 578telephone services

579, 580travel seasons 553travel to/from 581travel within 553, 581-2

visas 580women travellers 581

Turkish language 872Turku 164-6, 165Tyrol 301-5

UUkraine 42, 757-72, 672-3

accommodation 769budgeting 759climate 759food 759, 763, 769highlights 758holidays 769internet resources 759itineraries 758language 759, 872money 769opening hours 769telephone services 769travel seasons 759travel to/from 769, 772travel within 759, 772weather 759wi-fi 769

Ukrainian language 872Unesco World Heritage

sitesBelfort (Ghent) 261Berat 643-4Bucovina monasteries

728Český Krumlov 686-8Cinque Terre 494Diocletian’s Palace

(Split) 605-7Ferhadija Mosque (Banja

Luka) 621Geirangerfjorden 179-80Giant’s Causeway 126Göreme Open-Air

Museum 575Kraków Old Town 701-2Kronborg Slot

(Helsingør) 142Kutná Hora 685Lviv 764-8Nesebâr 751Plitvice Lakes National

Park 604Pompeii 510-11, 512,

510-11Rhodes Old Town 542-3Roskilde Domkirke 143Schloss Schönbrunn

(Vienna) 290Sighişoara Old Town

734Skellig Michael 117


887IN

DEX U

-ÞSopoćani Monastery

(Novi Pazar) 665Stari Most (Mostar) 623Suomenlinna (Helsinki)

159Surtsey 192Vila Tugendhat (Brno)

688Visby 155Würzburg Residenz

228-9universities

Cambridge 76Oxford 72-3Tartu University 810Universidade de Coimbra

461Vilnius University 835

Uppsala 153

Vvacations 853vaccinations 851Valais 365-6Valbona 642Valencia 421-4, 420-1,

422Varna 751-4, 752Vatican City 500-1Vatican Museums 495,

500-1Vatnajökull National Park

(Jökulsárgljúfur) 194, 195

vegetarian travellers 601Veliko Târnovo 749-51,

750Venetian glass 474

Venice 11, 474-86, 475, 480-1, 482-3, 11

accommodation 479discount cards 475drinking 486festivals & events 478-9food 479-83sights 474-5, 478,

484-5tourist information 486tours 478travel to/from 486travel within 486

Ventspils 829-30Versailles 328, 330-1, 25,

330-1Vestmannaeyjar 192Vianden 268Vienna 14, 283, 286-93,

286-7, 14accommodation 290-1drinking 292-3food 291-2nightlife 292-3sights 283, 286-90tourist information 293travel to/from 293travel within 293

Vila Nova da Gai 467Vilnius 831, 834-9, 836-7

accommodation 835-7drinking 838entertainment 838food 837-8nightlife 838 sights 831, 834-5tourist information 838tours 835

travel to/from 838travel within 838-9

visas 20, 855, 856, see also individual countries

Viscri 733Višegrad 621Vlad Ţepeş 729, 734volunteering 856Vrbas Canyons 620Vuno 644

WWales 82-4, 50-1walking, see hikingWarsaw 691, 694-9, 694,

2, 770water 851waterfalls

Gullfoss (Iceland) 191Rheinfall (Switzerland)

371Skógafoss (Iceland) 193Triberger Wasserfälle

(Germany) 233Waterloo 251weather 20, 27-31, see

also individual countrieswebsites 21, 38, 851Western Fjords 175-80Westfjords 191whirling dervishes 568Windermere 81Windsor 67-8wine

Bordeaux 345-6Champagne 339-41Hungary 718Moldova 736

women travellers 856work 856-7Würzburg 228-9WWI sites

In Flanders Fields 265Mons 266Somme, the 332-3Ypres 265

WWII sitesBerchtesgaden 297D-Day Beaches 333Dresden 219Eagle’s Nest

(Obersalzburg) 297Hitler’s Bunker (Berlin)

205KZ-Gedenkstätte Dachau

222Memorium Nuremberg

Trials 231

YYork 77-9, 78Ypres 265-6

ZZagreb 597, 600-3, 600Žemaitija National Park 845Zermatt 366Zürich 372-3

ÞÞingvellir National Park 191Þjóðhátíð

(Vestmannaeyjar) 192Þórsmörk 193-4

894

Walking Tour detourWalking Tour

Path/Walking Trail

BankEmbassy/ConsulateHospital/MedicalInternetPolicePost OfficeTelephoneToiletTourist InformationOther Information

AirportBorder crossingBus

CyclingFerry

U-Bahn/Underground station

MonorailParking

Metro station

Petrol stationS-Bahn/Subway stationTaxi

Train station/RailwayTram

Other Transport

LighthouseHut/Shelter

Beach

LookoutMountain/VolcanoOasisParkPassPicnic AreaWaterfall

River, CreekIntermittent River

Swamp/Mangrove

Reef

Canal

Water

Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake

Glacier

Beach/Desert

Airport/Runway

Cemetery (Christian)

Cemetery (Other)

Park/Forest

Mudflat

Sportsground

Sight (Building)

International

DisputedRegional/SuburbMarine ParkCliffWall

Capital (National)Capital (State/Province)City/Large TownTown/Village

State/Province

LaneTertiary

TollwayFreewayPrimary

StepsPlaza/Mall

Pedestrian overpass

Secondary

Unsealed roadRoad under construction

Tunnel

Cable car/Funicular

BeachBird SanctuaryBuddhistCastle/PalaceChristianConfucianHinduIslamicJainJewishMonumentMuseum/Gallery/Historic BuildingRuin

Sento Hot Baths/Onsen

ShintoSikhTaoistWinery/VineyardZoo/Wildlife SanctuaryOther Sight

DivingBodysurfing

Sleeping

Eating

Entertainment

Shopping

Drinking & NightlifeCafe

CampingHut/Shelter

Canoeing/KayakingCourse/Tour

SkiingSnorkellingSurfingSwimming/PoolWalkingWindsurfingOther Activity

Tube station

T-bane/Tunnelbana station

Gate

Information Routes

Boundaries

Hydrography

Areas

Geographic

Population

Transport

Sights

Activities,Courses & Tours

Sleeping

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

ShoppingNote: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book

Map Legend


Andrea Schulte-PeeversGermany, Austria & Benelux Born and raised in Germany and educated in London and at UCLA, Andrea has travelled the distance to the moon and back in her visits to some 75 countries. She has earned her living as a pro-fessional travel writer for over two decades and authored or contributed to nearly 100 Lonely Planet titles as well as to newspapers, magazines and websites around the world. She also works as a travel consultant, translator

and editor. Andrea’s destination expertise is especially strong when it comes to Germany, Dubai and the UAE, Crete and the Caribbean Islands. She makes her home in Berlin.

Andy SymingtonScandinavia, Spain & Portugal Andy has written or worked on over a hun-dred books and other updates for Lonely Planet (especially in Europe and Latin America) and other publishing companies, and has published articles on numerous subjects for a variety of newspapers, magazines and websites. He part-owns and operates a rock bar, has written a novel and is currently working on several fiction and non-fiction writing projects. Andy, from Aus-

tralia, moved to northern Spain many years ago. When he’s not off with a backpack in some far-flung corner of the world, he can probably be found watching the tragically poor local foot-ball side or tasting local wines after a long walk in the nearby mountains.

Nicola WilliamsFrance & Switzerland, Plan, Survival Guide Border-hopping is a way of life for British writer, runner, foodie, art aficionado and mum-of-three Nicola Williams, who has lived in a French village on the southern side of Lake Ge-neva for more than a decade. Nicola has authored more than 50 guidebooks on Paris, Provence, Rome, Tuscany, France, Italy and Switzerland for Lonely Planet and covers France as a destination expert for the Telegraph. She

also writes for the Independent, Guardian, lonelyplanet.com, Lonely Planet Magazine, French Magazine, Cool Camping France and others. Catch her on the road on Twitter and Instagram at @tripalong.

Contributing Writers & ResearchersIsabel Albiston, Kate Armstrong, Alexis Averbuck, Carolyn Bain, Oliver Berry, Abigail Blasi, Greg Bloom, Cristian Bonetto, Kerry Christiani, Gregor Clark, Michael Stamatios Clark, Fionn Davenport, Sally Davies, Marc Di Duca, Belinda Dixon, Peter Dragicevich, Mark Elliott, Steve Fallon, Emilie Filou, Duncan Garwood, Anthony Ham, Paula Hardy, Damian Harper, Anita Isalska, Anna Kaminski, Catherine Le Nevez, Jessica Lee, Ali Lemer, Tom Masters, Virginia Maxwell, Craig McLachlan, Hugh McNaughtan, Isabella Noble, John Noble, Becky Ohlsen, Zora O’Neill, Lorna Parkes, Christopher Pitts, Josephine Quintero, Leonid Ragozin, Kevin Raub, Tim Richards, Daniel Robinson, Brendan Sainsbury, Tamara Sheward, Helena Smith, Regis St Louis, Mara Vorhees, Benedict Walker, Greg Ward, Richard Waters, Donna Wheeler, Neil WilsonBrana Vladisavljevic curated the Balkans chapter.


OUR STORYA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.

Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

Published by Lonely Planet Global LimitedCRN 55415310th edition – October 2018ISBN 978 1 78657 640 8© Lonely Planet 2018 Photographs © as indicated 201810 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in ChinaAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasona-ble care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.

OUR WRITERSMark BakerCentral & Eastern Europe Mark Baker is a freelance travel writer with a pen-chant for offbeat stories and forgotten places. He’s originally from the United States, but now makes his home in the Czech capital, Prague. He writes mainly on Eastern and Central Europe for Lonely Planet as well as other leading travel publishers, but finds real satisfaction in digging up stories in places that are too remote or quirky for the guides. Prior to becoming an author, he worked as a journalist for the Economist, Bloomberg News and Radio Free Europe, among

other organisations. Instagram: @markbakerprague Twitter: @markbakerprague Blog: www.markbakerprague.com

Korina MillerItaly, Greece & Turkey Korina grew up on Vancouver Island and has been explor-ing the globe independently since she was 16, visiting or living in 36 countries and picking up a degree in Communications and Canadian Studies, an MA in Migration Studies and a diploma in Visual Arts en route. As a writer and editor, Korina has worked on nearly 60 titles for Lonely Planet and has also worked with LP.com, BBC, the Independent, the Guardian, BBC5 and CBC, as well as many independent magazines, covering travel, art and culture. She has currently set

up camp back in Victoria, soaking up the mountain views and the pounding surf.

Simon RichmondGreat Britain & Ireland, Russia & the Baltic Coast Journalist and photographer Simon Richmond has specialised as a travel writer since the early 1990s and first worked for Lonely Planet in 1999 on its Central Asia guide. He’s long since stopped counting the number of guidebooks he’s researched and written for the company, but countries covered include Australia, China, India, Iran, Japan, Korea, Malaysia, Mongolia, Myanmar (Burma), Russia, Singapore, South Africa and Turkey. For Lonely Planet’s website he’s penned features on topics from

the world’s best swimming pools to the joys of Urban Sketching – follow him on Instagram to see some of his photos and sketches.

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Europe on a Shoestring - Lonely Planet · Cruise across the Adriatic on one of the ferry services to Italy, where your final week’s pit stops include hauntingly beauti - ful Venice,