EU Eco-label Best Practice

Textiles

Andreas Scherlofsky Energon GmbH

This presentation

• Textile Situation• Basic documents and Info materials• Criteria• Cooperation strategy• How to use the label successfully• The Lenzing example

European Textile/Clothing Industry

• Longstanding tradition and leadership• still one of Europe’s major industrial sectors, first

major player in textile exports and third in clothing• highly specialised technology and a myriad of

different consumer and industrial products• EUR 215 bio. annual turnover, 2,6 mio. Total

workforce, in EU: 110.000 companies (95% SMEs)

Leading in fashion and creativity (labor-intensive!)

Source: Euratex on CIRFS data, 2001

Challanges

• Labor cost disadvantages compared to low-wage countries

• Trade barriers in certain important export markets

• Growing shortage of qualified human resources

• Strict environmental and safety legislation

Strategy: Make sustainability a USP

• In a world with limited resources and limited resistance of nature ...

• ... economy needs to become more and more sustainable (env., soc., econ.).

• Real prices and social wages which include indirect environ-mental and health costs ...

• ... need communication and argu-mentation to being acceptedcosts,

taxes

eco-social costs

real price

it’s just like with quality

Communication ► Acceptance

• If consumers know why and if they are sure of getting real eco-quality ...

• ... they are willing to pay higher prices

• not all consumers but enough, and not any price but i.e. 10% more

• Self awarding

• Ecolabels with independent audits

• Tests

Textile Ecolabels and similar(selected)

Environmental Code of practice

Ecolabel Otto (mail order firm?)

soft floor covering,

upholstered furniture

Textiles, skins and leather

OEKO-TEX

Consumer organisations

EU Ecolabel and OEKO-TEX

EU Ecolabel and OEKO-TEX

EU Ecolabel and OEKO-TEX

OEKO-TEX 100

OEKO-TEX 1000

Textile Criteria LCA

Performance and durability

Limitations of toxic residues in fibres

Limitation of the use of substances harmful to health and environment

Reduction of pollution (air, water) during production

LCA .. Life Cycle Assessment

Licence holders

• 118 awarded products• from 70 companies• from 17 countries

• mostly “final products”• some fibres

Awarded Textile Products

47

31

7

6

5

33

3 222111111

IT

DK

SE

GE

FR

NO

ES

GR

BE

CZ

LIT

AT

EST

FL

PO

AUS

NZ

Criteria

• Limited use of substances harmful to environment and health

• Reduced water and air pollution• Textile shrink resistance during washing and

drying• Colour resistance to perspiration, washing, wet

and dry rubbing and light exposure

… for more details: http://europa.eu.int/ecolabel

EU Ecolabel on Textiles Regulation

• Commission Decision 1999/178/EC• Commission Decision 2002/371/EC• ... Revision (AFNOR)

Objectives of the Revision

• Increase success of the Textile Ecolabel and convince textile industry to get more envolved

• Update and complete the criteria

• Take into account new regulations and standards

• Establish synergy between Ecolabel and Oekotex (facilicate application!)

• Websites: EU Ecolabel + Product catalogue

• Consumer Brochure - general• Consumer flyer “textiles and shoes”• Promotion of DG Env. + national CBs• Promotion on product and P.O.S.

of the companies

EU Ecolabel on Textiles Information for Consumer

EU Ecolabel on Textiles Consumer brochureEcolabel Products

EU Ecolabel on Textiles Consumer brochure

Clothing and Footware

• Application pack with User guide• Online application form• Websites of DG ENV. and CBs• Business Fact sheet

EU Ecolabel on Textiles Information for Industry

EU Ecolabel on Textiles Business fact sheet

EU Ecolabel on Textiles Steps to application

example Lenzing fibres

• high quality, eudermic, long-lasting and most environmentally friendly products

• made from renewable resources

• environmentally sound production

• easier Eco-labeling for producers of textiles made from these fibers!

21.9.06 ParisLenzing press conference with textile press from UK, USA, FR, DE, PT, ES etc.

EU Ecolabel was the PR key theme 2006

example „Lenzing“ fibres

about 80 fairs world wide

How to successfully use the label

• Press work (awarding,..)• Labels on the product and packaging• On promotion flyers• Product website• Point of sales (crowners, displays,..)• Advertisment• Events • Give aways• …

Thank you

EU Ecolabel Marketing