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20,000 LITERS OF WATER 15 KG OF PESTICIDES & FERTILIZERS TO PRODUCE THIS COTTON TSHIRT Inner zipper Crinkled nylon outer fabric Outer zipper Exposed zipper Silicon & faux leather branding Nylon fabric lining Nylon fabric edge lining Zinc plated brass hardware Cotton straps Faux leather strap Reinforcement Pom plastic Hardware Cotton cords Nylon fabric Branding Cotton & velcro Closing fastener Etty Beke IND 487P/587P Sustainable Production Methods Professor: Frank Millero SP2013 KIPLING HONEYBEE BACKPACK PRODUCT PROFILE PRODUCT INFO PRODUCT NAME Honeybee Women’s Backpack SPECIFICATIONS Dim: 9”x14”x7.75” Weight: 15oz MANUFACTURER Kipling by VF Corporation SALES Kipling is sold in over 60 countries, 6 mil- lion bags and accessories sold per year. HABITAT ALTERATION ECOTOXICITY WATER EUTRIPHICATION HUMAN HEALTH RESOURCE DEPLETION OIL RAW MATERIAL | SOURCE OF ENERGY | TRANSPORTATION COTTON RAW MATERIAL GLOBAL WARMING ACID RAIN HUMAN HEALTH INSTABILITY / HUMAN CONFLICT RESOURCE DEPLETION 1991 PERSIAN GULF WAR 240,000,000 GALLONS OF OIL SPILLED. MY STORY Kipling was founded in Antwerp in 1987 by three women. I became quite acquainted with the brand while spending my childhood and teenage summers in Belgium visiting my family. I loved the bold aesthetics, the big zippers and crinkled fabric, and owned a variety of their products. I acquired this particular bag around 2001. Two summers ago, while my Kipling bag was resting in my closet, used only ever so often, I decided to buy a similar sized, well-priced Baggu backpack. Designed in Brooklyn with simple shapes and materials (recycled canvas), the product turned out to be quite dissapointing. A first wash washed away part of the dye, a couple months of use, left the closing cords fraying. Last year, I decided to go back to my Kipling bag, which still feels like brand new. It’s still pretty, comfty and light- weight. I have never considered throwing it away. Skein Spinning, Filament Yarn Cotton Linters (or Wood Pulp) Washing and Bleaching Aging and Deaerating Solution Mixer Cuprammonium Liquor Filter Continuous Spinning, Filament Yarn Spinning for Staple Fibre Coagulating Liquor Selected Production for Dope Dyed Yarn Spinning Pump & Spinneret Pack Chip Hopper w/ innert environment Extruder Spinneret Cool Air Spin Roll Finished Nylon Undrawn Nylon

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Page 1: Etty Beke Profile Board 04 30 13 - Pratt CSDScsds.pratt.edu/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/Etty... · 2 VOCs ENERGY CO 2 VOCs ENERGY CO 2 VOCs CO 2 ... How Products are made. . ... Etty

20,000 LITERS OF WATER 15 KG OF PESTICIDES & FERTILIZERSTO PRODUCE THIS COTTON TSHIRT

Inner zipper

Crinkled nylon outer fabric

Outer zipper

Exposed zipper

Silicon & faux leather branding

Nylon fabric lining

Nylon fabric edge lining

Zinc plated brass hardware

Cotton straps

Faux leather strap Reinforcement

Pom plasticHardware

Cotton cords

Nylon fabric Branding

Cotton & velcro Closing fastener

Etty BekeIND 487P/587P Sustainable Production MethodsProfessor: Frank MilleroSP2013

KIPLING HONEYBEE BACKPACK PRODUCT PROFILE

PRODUCT INFOPRODUCT NAMEHoneybee Women’s Backpack SPECIFICATIONSDim: 9”x14”x7.75”Weight: 15ozMANUFACTURER Kipling by VF CorporationSALESKipling is sold in over 60 countries, 6 mil-lion bags and accessories sold per year.

HABITAT ALTERATIONECOTOXICITYWATER EUTRIPHICATIONHUMAN HEALTHRESOURCE DEPLETION

OIL RAW MATERIAL | SOURCE OF ENERGY | TRANSPORTATION

COTTON RAW MATERIAL

GLOBAL WARMINGACID RAINHUMAN HEALTH INSTABILITY / HUMAN CONFLICT RESOURCE DEPLETION

1991 PERSIAN GULF WAR 240,000,000 GALLONS OF OIL SPILLED.

MY STORYKipling was founded in Antwerp in 1987 by three women. I became quite acquainted with the brand while spending my childhood and teenage summers in Belgium visiting my family. I loved the bold aesthetics, the big zippers and crinkled fabric, and owned a variety of their products.

I acquired this particular bag around 2001. Two summers ago, while my Kipling bag was resting in my closet, used only ever so often, I decided to buy a similar sized, well-priced Baggu backpack. Designed in Brooklyn with simple shapes and materials (recycled canvas), the product turned out to be quite dissapointing. A �rst wash washed away part of the dye, a couple months of use, left the closing cords fraying.

Last year, I decided to go back to my Kipling bag, which still feels like brand new. It’s still pretty, comfty and light-weight. I have never considered throwing it away.

Skein Spinning, Filament Yarn

Cotton Linters (or Wood Pulp)

Washing and Bleaching

Aging and Deaerating

Solution Mixer

Cuprammonium Liquor

Filter

Continuous Spinning, Filament Yarn

Spinning for Staple Fibre

Coagulating Liquor

Selected Production for Dope Dyed Yarn

Spinning Pump & Spinneret Pack

Chip Hopper w/ innert environment

Extruder

Spinneret

Cool Air

Spin Roll

Finished Nylon

Undrawn Nylon

Page 2: Etty Beke Profile Board 04 30 13 - Pratt CSDScsds.pratt.edu/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/Etty... · 2 VOCs ENERGY CO 2 VOCs ENERGY CO 2 VOCs CO 2 ... How Products are made. . ... Etty

POLYOXYMETHYLENE (POM)Clips & Buckle

NYLONFabric

ENERGYCRUDE OIL

EXTRACTION

PETROLEUM REFINEMENT

COPOLIMERIZATION

INJECTION MOLDING

CO2

VOCs

ENERGY CO2

VOCs

ENERGY CO2

VOCs

CO2

VOCs

ENERGY CO2

VOCs

PROCESSING INTO MONOMERS

WATERENERGY

PETROLEUM REFINEMENT

POLIMERIZATION

ENERGY CO2

VOCs

ENERGY CO2

VOCs

CO2

VOCsPROCESSING INTO

MONOMERSWATER

ENERGY

STRAND FORMINGENERGY CO2

VOCs

WEAVINGENERGY CO2

VOCs

BRASSHardware

ENERGYCOPPER ORE MINING &

CRUSHING

ELECTROLYTIC REFININGENERGY

ALLOYINGENERGY

DIE CASTINGENERGY

ZINC PLATINGENERGY

WATER

POLYURETHANE FAUX LEATHERStraps Bindings with cotton backing

ENERGYCRUDE OIL

EXTRACTION

PETROLEUM REFINEMENT

POLIMERIZATION(POLYURETHANE)

CO2

VOCs

CO2

VOCs

CO2

VOCs

ENERGYZINC ORE MINING &

CRUSHING

REFINING

CO2

VOCs

ENERGYGRINDING CO2

VOCs

ENERGYWATER

PINE OILCHEMICALS

AIR

FROTH FLOTATION CO2

VOCs

ENERGYLEAD

SMELTING CO2

VOCs

ENERGYGRINDING CO2

VOCs

ENERGYWATER

LIMECHEMICALS

AIR

FROTH FLOTATION CO2

VOCs

ENERGYLEAD

SMELTING CO2

VOCs

CO2

VOCs

CO2

VOCs

CO2

VOCs

CO2

VOCsWASTE WATER

ENERGY CO2

VOCs

ENERGY CO2

VOCs

CO2

VOCsPROCESSING INTO

MONOMERSWATER

ENERGY

COAGULATIONDRY PROCESS

WEAVING

ENERGYDYE

CO2

VOCs

SILICONEBranding

ENERGYSILICA EXTRACTION FROM SANDSTONE

COMBINE W/ CHEMI-CALS

CO2

ENERGYWATER

HAZ. HYDROGENCHLORIDE FUMES

CAST INTO MOLDENERGY

MINERAL DYECO2

COTTONStraps

ENERGYWATER

PESTICIDESFERTILIZERS

CULTIVATION

HARVESTING

CO2

VOCsWASTE WATER

ENERGY CO2

VOCs

CO2

VOCsWASTE WATER

CO2

VOCs

CO2

VOCsWASTE WATER

SPINNINGENERGYWATER

WEAVINGENERGY CO2

VOCs

GINNINGENERGY CO2

SCOURING &BLEACHING

ENERGYWATER

BLEACHINGSOLUTION

DYEINGENERGYWATER

DYES

ENERGYWATER

PESTICIDESFERTILIZERS

COTTON CULTIVATION

HARVESTING

CO2

VOCsWASTE WATER

ENERGY CO2

VOCs

CO2

VOCsWASTE WATER

CO2

VOCs

CO2

VOCsWASTE WATER

SPINNINGENERGYWATER

GINNINGENERGY CO2

SCOURING &BLEACHING

ENERGYWATER

BLEACHINGSOLUTION

DYEINGENERGYWATER

DYES

ENERGYHAND LABOR

ASSEMBLY

PURCHASING

CO2

ENERGYPACKAGING

CO2

PACKAGING

LONG TERM USEHUMAN ENERGY

LANDFILLENERGY CO2

CH4

SOLID WASTE

DISPOSAL

CO2BULK PACKAGING

DISTRIBUTION CENTER

STORES WORLDWIDE

ENERGYWOOD PALLETS

CARDBOARDPLASTICPR

OD

UCT

ION

USE

END

OF

LIFE

Etty BekeIND 487P/587P Sustainable Production MethodsProfessor: Frank MilleroSP2013

KIPLING HONEYBEE BACKPACK

KEYWORDSKipling

Honeybee Kipling BackpackWomen’s Backpack

ProductionMethods

NylonBrass

CopperZinc

PlasticMiningCotton

Faux LeatherSilicone

Strand FormingPolymerization

HardwarePlastic Hardware

VelcroBuckles

ClipsPOM

Electro PlatingCoagulation

SmeltingFroth Flotation

Die CastingInjection Molding

Land�llEmissions

HazardsAZODyes

ChemicalOrganic

StandardsRecyclingPrograms

OilEnvironment

ImpactSpill

ClothingTextile

CultivationSustainability

Social

SOURCES. Alexia Cohen, Process Tree. IND 587P Fall2012. Interview with Virginia Bañuelos. Product Manager, Flamenco. February 24th 2013. . Inteview with Annie McCourt. Contractor, Gap. March 31st 2013.. Lesko, Jim. Industrial Design, Materials & Manufacturing Guide. USA: John Wiley & Sons, Inc, 1999. Print.. Lewis Helen, and John Gertsakis. Design + Environment. USA: Green Leaf Publishing Limited. 2011. Print.. Ashby, Mike, and Kara Johnson. Materials & Design, The Art & Science of Material Selection in Product Design. USA: Buttersworth-Heinemann. 2002, 2010. Print. Np. Cotton From Field to Fabric, Yarn Production. National Cotton Council of America. http://www.cotton.org/pubs/cottoncounts/�eldtofabric/yarn.cfm. Np. Copper Production from Ore to Finish. Copper Development Association Inc. http://www.copper.org/education/production.html. Np. Cotton Production & Trade. Kew, Royal Botanic Garden. http://www.kew.org/plant-cultures/plants/cotton_production__trade.html. Np. Cotton Fibers. The University of Tennessee, Knoxville. http://web.utk.edu/~mse/Textiles/Cotton%20�bers.htm. Np. Brief on PU Synthetic Polyurethane Leather. Hunan Joejet New Materials Co., LTD. . http://www.joejet.cn/en/introduce002.html?introID=100009674. Np. Zinc. How Products are made. http://www.madehow.com/Volume-2/Zinc.html#b. Np. Land�ll Methane Outreach Program. EPA US Environmental Protection Agency. http://www.epa.gov/lmop/basic-info/index.html. Np. Category Overview (Buckles. Nifco. http://www.nifco.com/ctl/buckle/top_index.html. Np. REACH, European Community Regulation on chemicals and their safe use. http://ec.europa.eu/environment/chemicals/reach/reach_intro.htm. Np. REACH Brief. European Commissions Environment Directorate General. http://ec.europa.eu/environment/chemicals/reach/pdf/2007_02_reach_in_brief.pdf. Np. ECHA. European Chemicals Agency. http://echa.europa.eu/. Np. Green Chemistry & Commerce Council. http://www.greenchemistryandcommerce.org/. Np. The North Face 2011 Sustainability Report. The North Face. http://expeditionsustainability.com/waste/reducing-o�ce-waste.php. Np. The North Face Sustainability / Waste. http://www.thenorthface.com/en_US/innovation/sustainability/waste/. Np. Interface Reentry 2.0. https://www.interface�or.com/Default.aspx?Section=3&Sub=4&Ter=18.Np. Marks & Spencer Shwop Program. http://www.marksandspencer.com/Shwop/b/1672188031.Np. 6 Big Oil Spills, and what they cost. CNN. http://money.cnn.com/galleries/2010/fortune/1005/gallery.expensive_oil_spills.fortune/5.html.Np. Gulf War Oil Disaster. Counterspill. http://counterspill.com/article/gulf-war-oil-disaster-brief-history April 10, 2011.Np. Cotton Picking in China, Ecouterre. http://www.ecouterre.com/welcome-to-ecouterre/cottonpickingchina/.Np. Corporate Responsibility Across VF. VFC. http://www.vfc.com/corporate-responsibility/environmental/across-vf.Np. New Method Cleans Up Textile Industry’s Most Dangerous Chemicals. September 27th, 2011. Science Daily. http://www.sciencedaily.com/releases/2011/09/110926102803.htm.Np. Manual for the Implementation of the Global Organic Textile Standard. http://www.global-standard.org/images/stories/gots-manual_01march2011.pdf.Np. American Textile Recycling Services. http://atrscorp.com/.Np. How is cotton Recycled? Living Bag. http://www.living-bag.com/how_cotton.html .Np. I:CO. http://www.ico-spirit.com/en/about-ico/.Np.Eco-Gear. Comparative Study of the environmental impact of recycled cotton yarns vs conventional cotton yarns. http://www.eco-gear.ca/ecogear-Comparative-Study.pdf.Np. H&M Garment Collecting. http://about.hm.com/AboutSection/en/About/Sustainability/Commitments/Reduce-Reuse-Recycle/Garment-Collecting.html.Np. BASF Climate Protection. http://www.performancechemicals.basf.com/ev-wcms-in/internet/en_GB/portal/show-content_tc/content/EV/EV8/about_us/climate_protection.Np. Climatex Lifecyle. Designtex. http://www.designtex.com/climatex_Environments.aspx?f=36310.Np. Baggu Eco-Thics Info Sheet. Baggu, http://baggubag.com/static/Catalogs/Baggu_EcoEthicsSheet_2013.pdf.Np. Recycled Cotton, and Patagonia’s Examined Life. Treehugger Warren McLaren. http://www.treehugger.com/culture/recycled-nylon-and-patagonias-examined-life.html October 11th, 2007.Np. New Green Outdoor Fabrics from Toray. Treehugger. Warren McLaren. http://www.treehugger.com/sustainable-fashion/new-green-outdoor-fabrics-from-toray.html April 4th, 2007.Np. Recycle Your Blues. Gap Social Responsibility. http://www.gapinc.com/content/csr/html/Goals/environment/our_program_in_action/recycle_your_blues.html.Np. Fiber watch: nylon gets a new (recycled) life. Ecosalon. http://ecosalon.com/�ber-watch-re-vamping-nylon/ .Np. NILIT® Specialty Yarns & Brands » NILIT » Eco Fibers. Nilit Fabrics. http://www.nilit.com/�bers/brands-NILIT-ecocare.asp.Np. Mills and Sundries working group. The Business of a Better World. http://bsr.org/en/our-work/working-groups/apparel-mills-sundries.Np. H&M to boost organic cotton use by 50% in 2009. Andrea Donsky. January 30th, 2009. http://www.treehugger.com/style/hm-clothing-to-boost-organic-cotton-use-by-50-percent-in-2009.html.Np. Cotton Vs. Polyester. Coral Rose. http://coralrose.typepad.com/my_weblog/2008/07/polyester-vs-co.html July 30th, 2008

Market Research:http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kipling_(brand)http://www.kipling.com/int/http://www.vfc.com/ (VF Corporation)http://www.zappos.com/

RAW

MAT

ERIA

LS

ENERGYCRUDE OIL

EXTRACTION CO2

VOCs

PROCESS TREE

Page 3: Etty Beke Profile Board 04 30 13 - Pratt CSDScsds.pratt.edu/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/Etty... · 2 VOCs ENERGY CO 2 VOCs ENERGY CO 2 VOCs CO 2 ... How Products are made. . ... Etty

Etty BekeIND 487P/587P Sustainable Production MethodsProfessor: Frank MilleroSP2013

IN-HOUSE SUSTAINABILITY CULTUREUsing Rudyard’s literature and the culture of adventure, which originally inspired the creators of the brand, as a starting point to develop a culture of sustainability inside the company. Improve facilities, provide condi-tions for more sustainability practices, educate and set standards throughout company to incorporate sus-tainability in the conception, design, manufacturing, distribution and sale of product lines. Engage employ-ees with social and environmental causes, like Reef’s Redemption Paid Volunteer Plan.

By partnering with i:co, a company dedicated to used gar-ment collection and the development of a closed loop pro-duction cycle, Kipling can engage customers in its sustain-ability e�orts while working to develop a system that keeps products out of the land�lls.

The North Face, a sister company, has already established a Clothes The Loop program with i:co, which Kipling, and ulti-mately all other sister brands, could tag along. Customers are invited to bring in their used clothes and shoes and are given a voucher in exchange.

OUT OF THE LANDFILLS

Removal of 1”x5” Keychain Holder(POM, Cavnvas, Stainless Steel)

KIPLING HONEYBEE BAKCPACK

DEMATERIALIZATIONDetermine, through market research, all unused or unnecessary elements with-out comprimising the design of the product. Replace parts like interior zippers with snap buttons, keeping in mind less intensive production methods and striv-ing for disassembly.

PROPOSALS TO LESSEN ENVIRONMENTAL IMPACTSPROPOSALSThe following proposals encompass ideas related to the improvement of the physical qualities of the product and kinds of production methods used, as well as proposals related to systemic changes that touch on the company’s sustain-ability culture and its relation to the customer.

The Kipling brand is part of VF Corporation, a large consortium of companies, in-cluding Timberland, Nautica, Reef and The North Face which have already started di�erent kinds of sustainability programs. Through sister companies and the great access to facilities and technologies, these big name brands have the power to promote a higher production standard worldwide.

Removal of 3”x 4.5” Pencil Pocket(Nylon fabric)

Replacement of 7”L Interior Zipper with Snap Button Nylon fabric, Nylon coil, Stainless Steel.

RECYCLED COTTON CANVAS STRAPSAll cotton elements to be manufactured from recycled cotton, eliminating the great ecological impact on cultivation, harvesting and ginning of cotton.

RECYCLED CRINKLED NYLON FABRICUpgrading iconic Kipling crinkled nylon fabric by incorporating recycled nylon content.

IMPROVEMENT IN WATER AND ENERGY MANAGEMENTKipling’s use of dyes is guided by the European Legislation that bans many of the AZO Dyes. These set standards are higher than what is commonly used in many other parts of the world, including the US.

A next step would be to upgrade to more e�cient dyes. BASF Performance Chemicals greatly reduce the amount of water and energy used in the dying process.

In addition to this, the incorporation, once the technology is available, of waste water treatment that uses biological and chemical agents and lessens the impact on the environment. The research and application, by Maria Jon-strup from Lund University, is currently under development.

Baggu Backpack ethically made in China from 100% recycled cotton.

Patagonia developed, in con-juction with japanese factories, recycled nylon and polyester fabric for their products.