et derive issue 1 " Natural Selection "

Isaac Ramos Ilijrana Alushaj Apache Beat Andrew Stinson Michalyn Andrews TrasteverineDerrick Cruz Black Sheep & Prodigal Sons

SAMUEL JON BRIDGMAN NADAV BENJAMINCARISSA PELLETERI

RYAN MICHAEL KELLYPETER HALASZ

CRICKET ALEXANDER

ISSUE ISpring / Summer 2010

Editor-in-chief: Sara Bridgman

Executive Editor: Samuel Jon Bridgman

Photo Editor: Nadav Benjamin

Associate Photo Edior: Carissa Pelleleri

Design Director: Amy Frederick

“In Praise of Costume, The Garment as Sculpture” Artists:

Samuel Jon Bridgman

Carissa Pelleteri

Nadav Benjamin

Ryan Michael Kelly

Peter Halasz

Cricket Alexander

Fashion Styling and Interiews:

Sara Bridgman

Special thanks:

Courtney Flaherty, Marissa Hermann, David Baur, Kendal Mazzetta, Matt Werth, Billy Keith, Ashley Leonard, Marc Lesser, Claudia Lake, Ella Berard, Macy Berard, Steve& Michelle McCormack, Travis McCormack, Heather

McCormack, Daniel Bridgman, Sophia Gautreau, Psycho

front and back Cover photography: Nadav Benjamin

front and back Cover model: Courtney Flaherty

Back Cover: vintage Contempo Casuals dress, vintage Vivienne Westwood boots 1

2

3

4

SAMUEL JONBRIDGMAN

“...there are the cliché answers that are no less valid... poverty, illiteracy, cruelty, religious dogma. maybe entitlement? that seems like a great thing for the world to be without.”

Samuel portrait courtesy of

Nadav Benjamin

5

6

Where did you grow up and where do you consider your home?

I was born in La Jolla, California. I lived there on and off but unfortunately my family moved a lot so I never really felt like a local anywhere. I went to five different high schools, four or five grammer schools, 1 Jr. high!.. I learned to make friends quickly, and tended to gravitate towards people that seemed the most interesting, eccentric, fun, etc. I think maybe a good parallel is speed dating. As an adult I have continued this trend (San Diego, Los Angeles, Seattle, Mass.) I live in New York now but I don’t know for how much longer...

Other projects besides your main life source (income)? ‘Quod me nutrit me destruit’, Latin phrase meaning - ‘What nourishes me also destroys me.’

Well, I really enjoy reading. I’m a big fan of science fiction. I used to collect comic books. When things seem truly dire I tend to obsessively follow politics. I sometimes feel that had I not been so wayward in my youth; I would have pursued a career as a public servant (national politics). or maybe journalism.

A relative or someone in your life that had a big impact on your work practice/ethic?

My fathers side of the family has inspired me. My grandfather was a huge influence on me as well as just about everyone he came into contact with, he taught drawing, histology and was a medical illustrator. My grandparents in general were tremendous humanitarians, they really fostered a sense of curiosity towards everything,

7

especially the arts and culture. My father was a painter/ artist and wound up becoming an art historian . My aunt was a dancer and is now an instructor. My uncle was a painter. My other aunt was an artist and became a florist. I have another uncle that is a scientist and professor. So art, and academia have always held a certain allure for me.

Something that you really think the world would be a better place without?

There are the cliché answers that are no less valid... poverty, illiteracy, cruelty, religious dogma. Maybe entitlement? That seems like a great thing for the world to be without. Then no one group would feel any sense of superiority over any other, but really how boring would true egalitarianism be? Utopian ideas are so 20th century.

Who are some of the artists you have worked with and who would you like to work with? Dead or alive.

I worked for Liz Larner in Los Angeles. I studied with Mike Kelley, Francis Stark, Andrea Zittel and Jan Tumlir. Paul McCarthy, Sean Landers, Christian Jankowski, Rodney Graham, and Bruce Nauman are a few artists whose work I find compelling. I would say that one of my favorite artists is Bas Jan Ader.

What inspired this installation?

Martin Kippenberger is always a great inspiration.

One word to describe the “In Praise of Costume, The Garment as Sculpture” concept.

Ether

interior photography courtesy of

Carissa Pelleteri

8

9

10

11

CARISSA PELLETERI

“...the biggest impact on me was my environment, which I wanted to improve”

Carissa portrait courtesy of

Nadav Benjamin

A F e w D a y s

12

13

et dérive vintage silk 2 – piece, ivory bangle, wooden necklace, studded belt ; Kela Ci dance shoes

Fashion Stylist: Sara Bridgman Models: Marissa Hermann, Ella Berard, Macy Berard, Sophia Gautreau, Psycho

14

et dérive vintage hooded 2 – piece, vintage Van Eli shoes

15

et dérive vintage top, fingerless gloves, ninja booties; Jerome hood scarf

16

et dérive vintage cropped t-shirt, fingerless gloves, army pins; Dogtown Skateboards mesh hat, vintage Frank Usher London skirt, Wolford leggings

17

et dérive vintage velvet dress, Jerome feather roach clip, vintage Nordstrom hat, vintage Nocona boots, vintage Calobar sunglasses

18

et dérive vintage denim vests and jacket, vintage striped Garanimals shirt, vintage Black Sabbath t-shirt

19

vintage Norma Kamali sweatshirt, model’s own hot pants, Wolford fishnets, et dérive vintage boots

20

Malin Landaeus vintage silk mesh bodysuit, vintage Valentino panties

21

Malin Landaeus vintage silk mesh bodysuit, vintage Valentino panties

22

23

et dérive vintage denim vests and jacket, vintage striped Garanimals shirt, vintage Black Sabbath t-shirt, et dérive vintage cropped t-shirt, fingerless gloves, army pins; Dogtown Skateboards mesh hat, vintage Frank Usher London skirt, Wolford leggings

et dérive vintage denim vests and jacket, vintage striped Garanimals shirt, vintage Black Sabbath t-shirt, et dérive vintage cropped t-shirt, fingerless gloves, army pins; Dogtown Skateboards mesh hat, vintage Frank Usher London skirt, Wolford leggings

24

vintage Adrienne Vittadini dress, et dérive vintage hat, Palladium combat boots, vintage Calobar sunglasses

25

vintage Adrienne Vittadini dress, et dérive vintage hat, Palladium combat boots, vintage Calobar sunglasses

26

27

NADAV BENJAMIN

“...when i was a kid my bedroom was also my mother’s painting studio”

Nadav portrait courtesy of

Carissa Pelleteri

c i t r u s & t a k e o u t

28

vintage Rifat Ozbek jacket, vintage Danskin tights Fashion Stylists: Sam & Sara Bridgman Assistant Fashion Stylist: Courtney Flaherty Models: Peter Halasz & Courtney Flaherty

vintage Rifat Ozbek jacket, vintage Danskin tights Fashion Stylists: Sam & Sara Bridgman Assistant Fashion Stylist: Courtney Flaherty Models: Peter Halasz & Courtney Flaherty

et dérive vintage leather jacket, vintage Givenchy lace stockings, vintage Bally shoes

vintage Lightning Bolt t-shirt, model’s own jeans

vintage MTV jacket, Dogtown Skateboards mesh hat, vintage Yves Saint Laurent belt, vintage Cacharal button-up shirt , et dérive vintage sweater

vintage Cacharal button-up shirt , et dérive vintage sweater

vintage Unleashed t-shirt, model’s own jeans

et dérive vintage leather jacket, vintage Givenchy tignts, vintage Bally shoes

et dérive vintage shirt, vintage Christian Dior panties, vintage Chanel combat boots

et dérive vintage shirt, vintage Christian Dior panties, vintage Chanel combat boots

et dérive vintage t-shirt, model’s own jeans, vintage Yves Saint Laurent belt

42

vintage Christian Dior button-up, vintage Wrangler corduroy pants

vintage Contempo Casuals dress, vintage Vivienne Westwood boots

vintage Contempo Casuals dress, vintage Vivienne Westwood boots

45

Polaroid editorial circa 2006

RYAN MICHAEL KELLY

“ right now in the USA I think Television is the new religion...”

46

vintage Jean Paul Gaultier dress, Ghostown vintage belt and hat, vintage Lanvin knee hi stockings Fashion Stylist: Sara Bridgman Assistant Fashion Stylist: Mark Spalding

vintage Jean Paul Gaultier dress, Ghostown vintage belt and hat, vintage Lanvin knee hi stockings Fashion Stylist: Sara Bridgman Assistant Fashion Stylist: Mark Spalding

Ghostown vintage suede vest, tooled leather belt, Calvin Klein tank top, model’s own jewelry and hat

Ghostown vintage suede vest, tooled leather belt, Calvin Klein tank top, model’s own jewelry and hat vintage Pierre Cardin sweater, model’s own jeans and jewelry, Converse Chuck Taylor hi-tops

Samantha Pleet romper, vintage Charles Jourdan pumps, vintage Stussy sweatshirt, model’s own jeans and jewelry

Samantha Pleet romper, vintage Charles Jourdan pumps, vintage Stussy sweatshirt, model’s own jeans and jewelry

vintage Ossie Clark dress, Ghostown vintage charm bracelet and Harold

vintage Ossie Clark dress, Ghostown vintage charm bracelet and Harold 55

vintage Calvin Charles flannel, vintage Welsh MFG Co. glasses, model’s own jeans and belt

vintage Yves Saint Laurent blouse

Ghostown vintage tie dye t-shirt, belt, model’s own jeans

vintage Pierre Cardin sweater, model’s own jeans and jewelry

Carlos Valencia’s Full of Fight t-shirt

vintage Yves Saint Laurent blouse, Trasteverine skirt, vintage Lanvin knee hi stockings, vintage Andrew Geller shoes

vintage Calvin Charles flannel, vintage Welsh MFG Co. glasses

62

vintage Calvin Charles flannel, vintage Welsh MFG Co. glasses

64

( next page)

in the dimOil on Linen 72” x 36”

PETER HALASZ

“ i’ve been referring to new york as home lately, but you know, san diego is where i am from...”

elisabeth Oil on Linen 56” x 30”

(next page)

dust, stars and old fender reverb colleen Oil on Linen 53” x 30” Oil on Linen 38” x 28”

elisabeth Oil on Linen 56” x 30”

(next page)

dust, stars and old fender reverb colleen Oil on Linen 53” x 30” Oil on Linen 38” x 28”

CRICKETALEXANDER

“...my mother always encouraged and inspired me.”

Cricket portrait courtesy of

Freda Fairchild

72

I’d Rather be a Nurse Oil on Canvas 20” x 16”

Hand sewn and painted Doll

Hand sewn and painted Dolls

76

Bloody Framed Droplet Oil on Canvas 24” x 20” ( next page ) Doll Diorama

80

In Praise of Costume, The Garment as Sculpture

A series of commissioned works to illustrate the problematic nature of engaging popular culture and the evanescence of fashion. Including, but not limited to: mass, texture, silhouette, and narrative.

We like to think great fashion, doesn’t immediately become dated. In the interest of appearing fashionable, one shouldn’t be embarrassed by their “look” of three seasons prior... In collecting each piece we lean towards the thing that seems infinitely contemporary. In our minds, vintage isn’t about ap-pearing incongruous or anachronistic to popular taste. Avant- garde art and design is always informing the decision-making process. In our business practice, we try to avoid the glare of spectacle, by carefully considering the individual merits of each object or image.

The re-use of more or less discarded fashion can reinvigorate rather than merely supersede contemporary style. At the same time we are, with irony and sincerity, aligning ourselves with emerging Green movements elsewhere on the cultural horizon.

Our premiere collective include artists based in New York City.

This zine and our showroom, et dérive are based on longevity and natural selection. Vintage is the the the essence of innovative and au courant fashion design.

Sara and Samuel portrait courtesy of

Carissa Pelleteri

ILIRJANAALUSHAJ

“...if we had no lows then how would we be able to see and take pleasure in the highs.”

photography by Nadav Benjamin 82

vintage Halston hat, United Bamboo dress

photography by Nadav Benjamin

Tutu Blu dress, Trasteverine silk scarves Fashion Stylist: Sara Bridgman Makeup Artist: Kristin Hilton Hair Stylist: Caroline Assistant Fashion Stylist: Courtney Flaherty

Tutu Blu dress, Trasteverine silk scarves Fashion Stylist: Sara Bridgman Makeup Artist: Kristin Hilton Hair Stylist: Caroline Assistant Fashion Stylist: Courtney Flaherty


I grew up mostly in Australia, a few years of my childhood were in the former Yugoslavia. I however have been living in New York for 6 years and would probably call this my home.


My life source is I guess falls into main categories. I am not a person who can have straight vision in life. I try to do as much as possible. I am a music nerd, so I work a lot in this field. Mainly I am in a band called Apache Beat. I have another musical side project called Typical Girls. I also love words so I write for varying publications as well as my own online magazine The Pop Manifesto.


I have a lot of people who influence me all the time in varying things at varying times... so I couldn’t name one person randomly. I can say it generally is the people around me whom motivate me the most with anything I do.


Uncomfortable mattresses.

What are you currently working on?

I have a few things I am working on at the moment. My band Apache Beat is finishing up our debut album, Last Chants for early 2010 release. I am also working on a 7” for another project called Typical Girls, as well as putting

86

together the next issue of my online magazine, The Pop Manifesto.

How was your last tour?

We just came off tour with Gossip and it was amazing. That was one of the funnest tours we’ve been on.

Were there any highlights?

Raiding thrift stores for “Cosby” sweaters, watching Beth Ditto battle with crowds and the general trouble caused when there is a lot of time and nothing to do.

When you first moved to New York you turned down a modeling contract and a couple of years ago you turned down a target campaign, why? and good for you.

It just wasn’t right for me at the time. Sometimes you have to put monetary needs aside if you don’t feel like it is the time for what you are being offered.

What are your thoughts on the current economic climate? Do you see an upside?

I try to see an upside in everything. I mean seriously if we had no lows then how would we be able to see and take pleasure in the highs. Everything (good and bad) works in cycles.

Any chance of a line of clothing inspired by you anytime soon?

I obviously (like most girls) would love a clothing line, but nothing is on the books for that at the moment.

Paper Tiger dress, Courtney’s leather jacket, La Crasia gloves

Marquito and Blowman dress, Black Sheep & Prodigal Sons necklace, Wolford stockings

House of Dagmar dress, La Crasia gloves

Samantha Pleet top, Casadei shoes, La Crasia gloves, vintage Danskin tights, et dérive vintage suspenders and shorts

92

ISAACRAMOS

“...even though the things I am interested in are not so “grown up” that doesn’t mean I am any different than other people.”

93


I grew up in Arizona, the land of open skies and hot weather. I consider home right where I am at with my wife and child, Philadelphia.


Been working on getting better and more consistent at drawing. It is fun to really make an effort to make line width and shapes more precise. Flowers are very fun to draw like this, faces and hands are the hardest.


Hard to say because I have had so many mentors in my life. One person that inspires me is my brother, he has been able to get a real grip on his reality and take control of his life. He teaches so many people how to look at life in new ways just by being himself.


The prison system, it is such a negative situation and more of a cash cow for the lowest of the low business people. It has turned our country into a hyper violent place and institutionalized millions of people, ruining their lives. If we could turn the system into one with real rehabilitation and a focus on positivity our world would be a much better place. I just saw a program where prisoners at a maximum security prison were in a gardening program and all the men were thinking about the world and their lives differently than

before. I know gardening would not solve all the problems, but if this type of rehabilitation for criminals is more widely instituted then we would see a real shift in the mood and energy of our world.

What was the first zine you ever worked on?

A comic called Omnibus al dente with my pal Steve Reed. A mini comic, we actually got it distributed too.

How do you feel about being a father and how has it changed your outlook?

Feels good to be a dad, gives me some drive to do my jobs and get things done. I feel like it made me remember that I am an adult and even though the things I am interested in are not so “grown up” that doesn’t mean I am any different than other people.

You know that I am a long time Sonic Youth fan. One time you told me about cooking dinner for Kim Gordon and Thurston Moore at a gallery in New York? What was the basis?

I helped cook at this art gallery that had a temporary restaurant for a month. I cooked mexican twice. Tortillas from scratch. They were just a couple of the customers that came by. The best siting was Bjork!

Stand up comedy, was this a good outlet when you were young and angsty?

It was a good outlet for writing when I was young. I did a few minutes last year at this comedy night, I am working on new bits and want to try the comedy stage again. Jokes are the hardest thing to write, got to be new perspective on ordinary things.

What was your affiliation with the Tylenol bowl aka Greenpoint bowl aka Autumn bowl…?

I just worked on the Tylenol project doing marketing and graphics. My good pal Una put the entire thing together with Dave at Autumn. It was an idea Dave had already and it just worked out, mainly because we were all enjoying skateboarding in New York and had the opportunity to direct some money that way.

Dogg & Pony, your record label did shoes with Alife and DC at one point, how did that come about?

As far as the shoes go it is really just being enthusiastic about sneakers and being up for trying new promotions with awesome collaborators. Both shoes were made with the spirit of good times and having fun. The slip ones were just a recolor which is common today but then it was a new thing. The DC shoes were completely our concept, and we learned a lot about working with a big company to make your idea work out. I still got some pairs of the DC in mens sizes, so hit me up if you want a pair!

I miss Dogg & Pony performing, any chance of a reunion?

Naw, that was strictly for those turn of the century parties.

MICHALYN ANDREWS

“ It’s a place that I can channel all my inspiration and energy and create something that is truly my own but with it’s own separate life force.”

Michalyn portrait courtesy of

Nadav Benjamin

104


I grew up in La Jolla, California. I’ve lived in a couple other cities in this lifetime and amongst the place I’ve considered home are Rome and Los Angeles. I currently reside in New York and have been living here for two years but in reality have only been considering it to be my home for the last 6 months or so. There are places that I have an immediate understanding of, and a feeling of home or a desire to stick a flag in the ground and call it my own. New York was not one of these place for me but the longer I’m here the more it becomes a part of me. At this point in my life I think my home is wherever my boyfriend and cat can be found.


Funny that you use that quote, I’ve always loved it. My main life source is designing clothing. The danger in this (in regards to the way I understand this quote) comes with the fact that my identity has become so intertwined with this thing. It’s a place that I can channel all my inspiration and energy and create something that is truly my own but with it’s own separate life force. Unfortunately, this life source ends up having more significance than perhaps my own at times. Before I began the line my interest was in film. If there’s a point when I decide to put Trasteverine to rest I may revisit that, but, for the time being, I’ve dedicated all my project time to the line.


My grandmother Ginny is a total purist. Her understanding of

quality is something truly old world. When I visit her in La Jolla we have endless discussions about textiles and fabrication. I don’t think she’s ever owned a garment made from synthetic materials in her life. These sensibilities were definitely passed down to me and have everything to do with the clothing I construct.


The human ego.

Who are some of your favorite designers?

Miyaki and Yamamoto, and on another end of the spectrum a favorite is Zandra Rhodes.

What would you say your favorite piece is that you have designed to date and why?

There’s a dress that I’ve been bringing back every season for the past 3 three collections. It’s become a staple and although it’s one of my more basic designs it definitely embodies my approach in making effortless but dynamic pieces. It’s called the Maia dress and it had a very large drapey blouse and a slender fitted hip.

You have a very interesting grasp on design, since day one you have had a unique vision, i would even call it, stream of consciousness way of designing. Do you feel the same?

My vision is very distinct. It takes a bit of commitment because of that. I would say that it comes from an instinctual place which is very much my own and I’d like to think it’s from a stream of consciousness. I suppose for me it’s about nuance. Hovering between labels to find a unique point of view that is streamlined and concise but maybe

slips away before it can be defined. Does that make sense? That is part of my attempt with the things that I create. It’s hard to accurately describe it but perhaps it’s that place in the ether that I’m trying pull from that relates to the stream of consciousness.

Are you working on a fragrance?

Two, in fact I can’t say when they’ll be ready though. They’ve been in development for over a year now and we still have more to do before we’re ready.

112

DERRICK CRUZ

“ All of this makes makes me a romantic and stubborn smiling overworked bastard with a half-open mind that has trouble saying “no.”

photography by Nadav Benjamin

Derrick portrait courtesy of

David Black


I grew up in Puerto Rico. Most my early childhood was spent in a small industrial town in an eastern mountain valley of the island. At about age 12 we moved to the west coast to a surf town called Aguadilla (Waterville).

The concept of home is ever evolving for me. I used to ascribe to the “home is where you hang your hat” cliche, but lately I’m leaning towards “home is where the heart is.” With each new visit to Puerto Rico the last few years I create a stronger connection to the earth there. I daydream about the wet clay of the hills and the roadside fruit vendors, my grandparents quirky take on modern life and unpretentious atmosphere. But then again I yearn for the bustling energy of urban life and the urgency of the creative spirit in places like New York and, most recently for me, Paris.


You know, I try to steer away from that as much as possible. Destruction will come at you without invitation so I’ll make efforts for creation instead. My extracurricular work right now, no pun intended, is as a Professor of Integrated Design at Parsons. The vitality unencumbered attitude of young aspiring designers is contagious. At the same time, I feel fortunate to impart some of my hard-earned experience in return.

114


Its interesting you ask this, because I had a welcome moment of clarity over a cup of black coffee recently where I realized how each member of my very small family is reflected in who I am. I inherited some of my grandfather’s distaste for irony, etiquete and love for adornment. My grandmother’s mystical spiritualism and continued sense of wonder is like a bubble around even the most pragmatic thoughts in my head. From my mother I acquired my desire to work my ideas out in the open and wear my heart on my sleeve without regard for consequences. And last but not least, my father’s lawless and independent creative spirit drives my step and my hands. All of this makes makes me a romantic and stubborn smiling overworked bastard with a half-open mind that has trouble saying “no.” I think it works.


Money.

Tell me a little about Paris and the connection that you felt there, did BSPS receive a warm welcome?

The buyers I met in Paris were a terribly sophisticated bunch. At home I often find myself over explaining the craft, materials and processes,which this time was interrupted with “Stop, we understand. You did well. Now, tell me more about the concept behind it.” Needless to say, I came back very encouraged and with more energy to stave off the usual “Oh, Derrick, if you want to make money you need to mass produce and make cheaper things so you can sell more.” It helps to be vindicated by the buyers themselves.

115

Fashion Stylist: Sara Bridgman Hair Stylist: Billy Keith Assistant Fashion Stylist: Courtney Flaherty

Models: Shea Prueger, Billy Keith, Courtney Flaherty

I don’t want to jump the gun about who’s on board with us, but I’ll just say that some of the best shops in the world visited our little rented 4th floor walk-up in the Marais -- I say “our” because I showed alongside Marvielab, formerly of Carpe Diem. Anyhow, I expect a proper public showing of Black Sheep & Prodigal Sons in Paris soon.

Since you are my last interview and know me pretty well, do you have any questions for me?

Man, I can’t believe its been about five years since we’ve known each other!

Amazing.

Well, Sara, I’ve always seen you as a true maven of the avant garde and have always trusted your vision of things to come. That said, what do you think should be the creative motive of a seminal

contemporary American designer and how would you encourage that person to carry those convictions?

Thank you Derrick, time has flown by... My parent’s advice was always, don’t give up. I think that you should allow your desire to control you and eventually you will get to a place where you feel at one with your designs. Then I think it is important to learn to appreciate the art of consistency, dedication and along the way you will find courage. Try not to place too much value on what other’s think of you. And be ready to do it all over again.

130

ANDREW STINSON

“ Andrew always has the best music playing when he shoots...“

- Sara Bridgman

Celestial Navigation

vintage Diane Frés blouse, vintage Balenciaga stockings

Fashion Stylist: Sara Bridgman Hair Stylist: David Dieguez Make Up Artist: Sarah Egan Model: Caroline Demarqui

vintage Jean Paul Gaultier dress

vintage Diane Frés blouse, vintage Balenciaga stockings

vintage Alexander McQueen dress

Billy keith hair www.billykeithhair.com

Documents

et derive issue 1 " Natural Selection "