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CLIMBING HOLD XL.TESTS ACCORDING TO NORMATIVE UNE-EN12572-3:2009

Directed to: PRETOICA, S.L.Code: 130107 - PV13/0177

JUNE 2013

INSTITUTE OF BIOMECHANICS OF VALENCIA

INSTITUTE OF BIOMECHANICS OF VALENCIA CLIMBING HOLD XL. TESTS ACCORDING TO NORMATIVE UNE-EN-12572-3:2009

SIGNATURE SHEET AND CONDITIONS

CONDITIONS

Technica l Manager :

Fecha :

Fecha :

Technic ian of technologica l serv ices of IBV

Manager of technologica l serv ices of IBV

D. Rafael Mengual Ortolá

D. José David Garr ido JaénResponsib le for the serv ice :

1. Inst i tu te of B iomechanics of Valenc ia ( IBV), responds only to the resul ts entered in th is repor t and refer red exc lus ive ly to the mater ia ls o f samples ind icated in the same and that remain in i ts possess ion. Unless express ly ment ioned, the samples have been f ree ly chosen and sent by the appl icant .

2 . The IBV is not responsib le for the wrong in terpretat ion of an misuse that may be made of th is repor t , whose any par t ia l dupl icat ion for any purpose and the to ta l for adver t is ing purposes, wi thout the express author izat ion of the IBV, is prohib i ted.

3. Resul ts are considered as proper ty of the appl icant , and wi thout a prev ious author izat ion IBV wi l l absta in f rom communicated to a th i rd par ty.

4. Unless otherwise ment ioned, the sample or tests samples subject to th is repor t shal l remain for a per iod of 6 months f rom the date th is repor t has been issued.

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Technic ian of technologica l serv ices of IBV

Manager of technologica l serv ices of IBV

INSTITUTE OF BIOMECHANICS OF VALENCIA CLIMBING HOLD XL. TESTS ACCORDING TO NORMATIVE UNE-EN-12572-3:2009

SIGNATURE SHEET AND CONDITIONS:

1. INTRODUCTION AND OBJECTIVES

2. MATERIAL AND METHODS

3. RESULTS

C o n t e n t

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T h i s r e p o r t c o n s i s t s o f 1 2 p a g e s , 3 o f t h e m m a k e t h e a n n e x w h i c h c o n t a i n s t h e f o l l o w i n g d o c u m e n t a t i o n :

• A n n e x 1 : t e c h n i c a l d o c u m e n t a t i o n p r o v i d e d b y t h e p e t i t i o n e r c o n c e r n i n g t h e c h a r a c t e r i s t i c s o f t h e m a t e r i a l s u s e d i n t h e m a n u f a c t u r e o f t h e h o l d a n d i n f o r m a t i o n s u p p l i e d b y t h e m a n u f a c t u r e r t o g e t h e r w i t h t h e p r o d u c t .

130107 - PV13/0177

INSTITUTE OF BIOMECHANICS OF VALENCIA CLIMBING HOLD XL. TESTS ACCORDING TO NORMATIVE UNE-EN-12572-3:2009

1. INTRODUCTION AND OBJECTIVES

2. MATERIAL AND METHODS

SAMPLE CODE DESCRIPTION OF THE PRODUCT GIVEN BY THE PETITIONER

CLIMBING HOLD XLTightening torque: 25 Nm.

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The objective of the present study is the evaluation of a climbing hold following the Normative UNE-EN-12572-3:2009. Artif icial climbing hold structures. Part 3: Security requirements and test methods for climbing holds.

Tests took place at the installations of the IBV lab between the days May 29th and June 25th, 2013 above a sample of the product to evaluate, under environment conditions of temperature between 23-24 °C and 41-43% of humidity.

The sample of the test was selected and sent by the petitioner.

The codifications of the product and the description are included in the following table:

These tes ts have been requested by the company PRETOICA, SL. Located in : POL. IND. LLANERA, CALLE INDUSTRIA - NAVE 12, 46814 LLANERA DE RANES (Valencia).The company PRETOICA SL, prov ides as techn ica l documenta t ion to guarantee that the ins ta l led product compl ies w i th the ob l iga tory requ i rements in the normat ive UNE-EN-12572-3:2009, documenta t ion re fer red to the character is t ics o f the mater ia ls used in the manufac ture o f the ho ld and to the in format ion supp l ied by the manufac ture together w i th the product . Th is techn ica l documenta t ion is a t tached to the Annex 1 o f th is repor t .

MU13-0221

130107 - PV13/0177

CLIMBING HOLD XLTightening torque: 25 Nm.

MU13-0221

INSTITUTE OF BIOMECHANICS OF VALENCIA CLIMBING HOLD XL. TESTS ACCORDING TO NORMATIVE UNE-EN-12572-3:2009

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Methodology followed for the realization of several tests, is based in the normative document UNE-EN 12572-3:2009.

Normative requirements evaluated are presented as follows:

• Materials according to paragraph 4.1.

• Ergonomic requirements according to paragraph 4.2

• Proportion of dimensions according to paragraph 4.6.

• Preparation of the sample according to paragraph 5.1

• Resistance of the fixing force according to paragraph 4.3

• Rotation resistance according to paragraph 4.4

• Breakage resistance during use according to paragraph 4.5

• Information to be supplied by the manufacturer/supplier according to paragraph 6

• Branding according to paragraph 7 .

The aspects of the norm relating to materials and information to be supplied by the manufacturers/suppliers have been evaluated by revision of the technical documentation provided by the petitioner and included in Annex 1 to this report.

The measuring equipment used in the tests are shown in the following table:

EQUIPMENTS

Thermo-hygrometerCalibre.Metallic ruler.Torque key (dynameter key).Radius coves.

Climatic camera.Stove.Universal testing machine.

Finger entrapment coves.

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INSTITUTE OF BIOMECHANICS OF VALENCIA CLIMBING HOLD XL. TESTS ACCORDING TO NORMATIVE UNE-EN-12572-3:2009

3. RESULTS

3.1 MATERIALS

3.2 ERGONOMIC REQUIREMENTS

In the manufacture of c l imbing holds, no hazardous substances should be used which may cause adverse effects to the user of the equipment

The sur face of the hold must be f ree of sharp edges accessib le wi th a radius less than 0.5mm, and f ree of rebases.

There should be no pointed holds wi th a d iameter lessthat 15mm protruding more than 40mm from the wal l .

There should be no gaps or hol low spaces between 8mmand 25mm and a depth greater that 15mm that may cause imprisonment, unless specif ical ly designed for cl imbing.

SUITABLE

SUITABLE

SUITABLE

3.3

4.2

4.2

4.2

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The aspects and charac ter is t i cs o f the mater ia ls a re eva lua ted by rev is ion o f the techn ica l documenta t ion p rov ided by the pe t i t ioner. Th is documenta t ion , re la ted to t he t ype o f ma te r i a l s used i n t he manu fac tu re o f t he e lemen ts , i s con t ras ted w i t h t h e r e q u i r e m e n t s e s t a b l i s h e d i n t h e a p p l i c a t i o n n o r m . T h e t e c h n i c a l documenta t ion p rov ided i s enc losed in Annex 1 to th i s repor t .

( 1 ) The I BV has no t r ea l i zed any add i t i ona l t es t on t he ma te r i a l s used i n t he manu fac tu re o f t he ho l ds f o r t he

contrast of the resul ts declared in the technical documentat ion provided. The ful f i lment of the aspects and character ist ics

o f the mater ia ls has been made on the bas is o f the documentary rev iew o f the in fo rmat ion p rov ided by the pe t i t i oner.

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REQUIREMENT RESULTPARAGRAPH

UNE-EN12572-3

REQUIREMENT RESULTPARAGRAPH

UNE-EN12572-3

SUITABLE (¹)

INSTITUTE OF BIOMECHANICS OF VALENCIA CLIMBING HOLD XL. TESTS ACCORDING TO NORMATIVE UNE-EN-12572-3:2009

3.4 RESISTANCE TEST

N o h o l d i s a c c e p t a b l e w i t h a p r o p o r t i o n > 3 : 1( d 2 : d 1 y / o d 3 : d 1 ) ( s e e f i g u r e 1 ) .

F i g u r e 1 . P r o p o r t i o n s o f t h e h o l d .

The ho ld is d ipped in tap water dur ing 10min. Next , i t i s sub jec ted to 5 cyc les o f temperature du r ing a pe r iod o f one hour to -30°C, fo l l owed by a pe r iod o f 1 hours to +70°C. The ho ld i s dr ied a f ter th is las t cyc le .

Af ter cond i t ion ing, the c l imbing ho ld must not present v is ib le s igns o f damage

SUITABLE 4.6

SUITABLE 5.1

SAMPLE PREPARATION

3.3 PROPORTION OF DIMENSIONS

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REQUIREMENT RESULTPARAGRAPH

UNE-EN12572-3

REQUIRIMENT RESULTPARAGRAPH

UNE-EN12572-3

Methodology:

d1

d2

d3

4.3

4.5

INSTITUTE OF BIOMECHANICS OF VALENCIACLIMBING HOLD XL. TESTS ACCORDING TO NORMATIVE UNE-EN-12572-3:2009

ROTATION RESISTANCE

Methodology:

The hold is f ixed on a plywood panel wi th the screw and nut suppl ied by the manufacturerw i th a to rque wrench, us ing the max imum torque recommended by the manufac turer o f 25 Nm plus the 10%, a tota l torque of 27.5 Nm .

The hold is f ixed on a plywood panel wi th a screw and nut suppl ied by the manufacturerw i th a to rque wrench w i th the max imum to rque recommended by the manufac tu rer o f 25 Nm .

Next , a load of 1.5kN is appl ied to the most unfavourable posi t ion and d i rect ion of use against breakage dur ing 1 minute .

The hold should be subjected to the test descr ibed and should not be f ractured.

The hold should be subjected to the descr ibed test and should not be f ractured.

The manufacturer speci f ies in the user in format ion that the hold should a lways be subject to more than one f ixation point, so that according to paragraph 5.3 of the regulation UNE-EN 12572-3 th is test is not appl icable. .

SUITABLE

SUITABLE

RESISTANCE OF THE FIXING FORCE

BREAKAGE RESISTANCE DURING THE USE

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REQUIREMENT RESULT

REQUIREMENT RESULT

Methodology:

PARAGRAPHUNE-EN12572-3

PARAGRAPHUNE-EN12572-3

INSTITUTE OF BIOMECHANICS OF VALENCIA CLIMBING HOLD XL. TESTS ACCORDING TO NORMATIVE UNE-EN-12572-3:2009

The deta i ls of the f ixat ion equipment

The recommended use

The maintenance

The repai r

The waste

T h e m a x i m u m f a s t e n i n g t o r q u e f o r a l l t h e c l i m b i n g s c r e w s r e q u i r e d t o h o l d t h e d a m s

A l l t h e h o l d s m u s t b e m a r k e d w i t h t h e m a n u f a c t u r e r ´ s l o g o , e x p e c t f o r s c r e w s w i t h a n a v e r a g e d i a m e t e r < 5 0 m m

SUITABLE

SUITABLE

SUITABLE

SUITABLE

SUITABLE

SUITABLE

SUITABLE

6

7

3.5 INFORMATION PROVIDED BY THE MANUFACTURE/SUPPLIER

3.6 BRANDING

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THE INFORMATION TO BE PROVIDED MUSTINCLUDE: RESULT

PARAGRAPHUNE-EN12572-3

THE INFORMATION TO BE PROVIDED MUSTINCLUDE: RESULT

PARAGRAPHUNE-EN12572-3