English Journal: Travels in England, 2007, Vol. 2

THE MEADOWS AT CHRIST CHURCH

The Meadows

O ne of the oldest parts of Oxford Is a

piece of property which sits to the

south of Christ Church, and is

known as the “Meadows.” This

large expanse has been used since Anglo-Saxon

times for the townspeople to graze their cattle.

Now, however, it is controlled by Christ

Church. When one is that the Meadows it is

hard to imagine that it sits smack dab in the

middle of Oxford, because very few buildings

can be seen. There is a walk which originates at

the Meadows Building of Christ Church which

extends through the meadow all the way to the

river. This walkway has been used for hundreds

of years by students, faculty, and townspeople

alike. Even in the middle of summer during the

tourist season, very few people can be found in

this area.

THE MEADOWS AT CHRIST CHURCH

D uring my time at

Christ Church I lived

in the “Old Library.” It

is located on the south-

east corner of the college and

overlooks the Meadows Building.

It is called the old library for good

reason: It is the old library. But

more than that, it was a part of

the original priory which existed

on this site prior to its conversion

The Old Library

OLD LIBRARY AT CHRIST CHURCH

On the right is an old

lithograph of the

“Ancient Library” ,

which was actually the

old dining hall for the

monks at the Priory.

Above is photo of same

wall showing the same

hutch for the reader and

the conversion of the

Refectory to rooms for

students The conversion

was done in 1772.

to a college by Cardinal Wolsey in 1525. It

was originally the dining hall for the monks

and the members of the community. Since

the first building completed at Christ

Church was the hall, the old monks dining

hall became the first library of Christ

Church. It served as a library from the mid-

1500s until the completion of the new li-

brary in about 1690. Since that time, it has

served as a classroom, and anatomy lecture

hall, and in 1772 was converted into rooms

for students, principally from the Westmin-

ster School in London. But vestiges of the


old library remain. On the top floor is the

original ceiling from the library, which was

hand-painted with the coat of arms of the Uni-

versity, the College, and various benefactors.

There is also a small , rather secret room in

the Old Library which contains a private li-

brary belonging to the fellows of the college

and which was strictly off-limits to everyone

else. One can only imagine its contents. My

bet: Gambling Books over the past 500 years.

Also probably some pretty rare books and

documents. Then again, it could be their mas-

sive porn collection.


The view from my room, Christ Church


ANCIENT AND MODERN STONEWORK

All over Oxford are gargoyles and grotesques.

Some are quite old, others quite new One

even shows a man eating magic mushrooms! I

would wager this is one of the newer ones.

T he New College is the ancestor

of all colleges designed after it

was founded in 1379 by a

bishop of Winchester named

William of Wychem. He intended for it

to be a destination for scholars educated

at his grammar school near the cathedral

in Winchester. It led the way and set the

pace for the development of colleges in

both Oxford and in Cambridge, and by

extension, most American colleges. First,

it was built beginning t o end in one con-

tinuous action, accepting its first stu-

dents in 1384. Second, it was the first

purpose built college quadrangle in all of

THE NEW COLLEGE, founded in 1379

The New College


First Collegiate Gatehouse

architecture, and has been imitated more times than

W.C. Fields. The main quadrangle contained the old

warden’s lodgings, student lodgings, faculty lodg-

ings, a magnificent Chapel and a beautifully ap-

pointed Hall. On the top floor of the east range is

the original library, which is now a Senior Common

Room. Contained within the staircase leading to hall

is the college archives and, at one time, the college

treasury. It has a beautiful garden at the rear of its

property, which has segments of the old town wall

which probably dates from about the 10th century.

Hugh Grant is a graduate of New College, and yet

despite this it remains one of the elite colleges of

Oxford. My history professor at Wabash, James Bar-

nes, was a Rhodes Scholar her in the mid 1900s.


New College Quadrangle


New College Hall


New College Chapel


The Medieval Town Wall

SCHOOLS QUADRANGLE

I n the heart of Oxford is the

Schools Quadrangle. While its

anchor tenant is the ancient

Bodleian Library, the quadrangle

its self housed the ancient classrooms,

each one dedicated to a particular

“liberal art.” Above each door is the

name of the school, in latin. Now these

rooms house special exhibitions and

the University Gift Shop.

The Schools Quadrangle


SCHOOLS QUADRANGLE

Opposite: The doors to the various

schools in the Schools Quadrangle.

This page: The Schools Gatehouse from

the lantern of the Sheldonian Theater.

Detail over the main window to the old-

est section of the Bodleian Library

SCHOOLS QUADRANGLE


Views of the Schools Quadrangle

T he principal roadway which bisects

the town of Oxford is called simply

“the High.” It basically starts at the

old Anglo-Saxon tower on the west

side of town, and ends at the Magdalen Bridge

on the east side of town. It passes several store-

fronts, as well as Brasenose College, the Univer-

sity Church, All Souls College, University Col-

lege, Queens College, and Magdalen College.

Also one will find the Examination Schools near

the West End.

Several side streets of some import bisect the

High. That would include King Edward Street,

Oriel Street, Logic Lane, Turl Street, Catte Street,

Queens College Lane and Merton Street. Also

these tributaries spur into several alleyways,

many of which contain small public houses, also

known as Pubs.

THE HIGH, AND ITS TRIBUTARIES

The Turl Street Tributary off The High


College Portals on The High






The King Edward Street Tributary off The High

lege. He was also a member of its boat crew, as I remember his oar was displayed in the

alumni office during my years as a student.

Jesus College today looks Gothic, however when it was founded it was built along classical

lines. In the 19th century steps were taken to make it look older and several Gothic features

were added. There are two principal quadrangles, the oldest being on the east side of the

grounds and the newer being on the west side of the grounds. Both quadrangles are connected

in the middle to a hall which is also built along classical lines. Hanging in the Hall is a painting

JESUS COLLEGE

Gothic Renovations

JESUS COLLEGE

of the College’s benefactor Queen

Elizabeth the first, and a painting of a

former student named Lawrence,

who is also known as Lawrence of

Arabia. There is also a statue in the

entryway of the Chapel commemo-

rating Sir Laurence.

I took several pictures in the Chapel

and the front quadrangle. I also pho-

tographed the front door of the Mas-

ters Lodgings.

Lawrence of Arabia


Turl Street

T url Street runs north and south

along the western boundary of the

ancient university. It is about three

blocks long, and contains Lincoln

College, Exeter College, and Jesus College.

There are also a couple of stores, who no

doubt pay rent to the colleges which probably

own the storefronts. Of the colleges, the front

of Lincoln college is the oldest, followed by

the front of Jesus College, and rounded out by

the front of Exeter College which was built in

about 1620. Of the three, only the front of Lin-

coln College is original, as the other two col-

leges rebuilt or extensively remodeled around

1620. Lincoln college, however, retains much

of its medieval charm and has been well main-

tained through the ages.

S t. Edmunds Hall is a small Oxford college which has been in

existence for several centuries. It is the only remaining Hall

to still exist. It is named in honor of an Archbishop of Can-

terbury named Edmund of Abington. While some would

like to believe that the archbishop actually founded this college, the

historical record is silent. While it is true that Archbishop Abington

did teach in Oxford, there is no indication that he founded a college

there and that St. Edmunds Hall is the successor to the institution.

For a couple of centuries, St. Edmunds Hall was part of Queens Col-

lege. Although it had a separate administration, it was basically

owned by Queens. Then it achieved its independence and, in the last

50 years, was elevated to the position of an Oxford college, even

though it kept the name St. Edmunds Hall.

Also known as the Teddy, it occupies a small set of buildings, the

entrance to which is located on Queens Lane. The courtyard has a

large well, which used to be operational. There is also a large build-

ing, half of which was built during the 16th century and the other

half of more later vintage. There is also a set of small medieval look-

ST. EDMUND HALL

St. Edmund’s Origins

ST. EDMUND HALL

The Quadrangle at Teddy

ing buildings which are actually quite

new. Rounding out the Main quadrangle is

a large stone structure with vague Gothic

lines which contained the original hall. The

Chapel extends off the rear of the library.

The new library is found in a de-

consecrated church known as St. Peter’s of

the East which sits to the North of the

Main quadrangle. Parts of that library are

more than 800 years old.

The Teddy is a popular college amongst

the undergraduates and usually fields

some very good sporting teams, and con-

tains its share of scholars as well. While it

does not have the buildings or the endow-

ment of 99% of the other colleges at Ox-

ford, it is a charming place.

ST. EDMUND HALL

A Grave Marker in the Teddy Garden

ST. EDMUND HALL

E xeter College is one of the older

colleges at Oxford. It was founded

in the early 14th century, and its

first students were primarily from

the South West of England. The oldest part

of the college is Palmer Tower, which is the

early gatehouse to the original college. How-

ever, that is the only part of the original col-

lege which remains, and what stands cur-

rently was built in the early 17th century for

the most part. The exception is the Chapel

EXETER COLLEGE

Exeter

Broad

EXETER COLLEGE

Exeter Chapel and Hall

which was built in the mid-19th century. The Chapel looked out of place in the small quadran-

gle. What’s more, the Chapel it replaced was apparently perfectly good. Records indicate that

it could not be torn down, but instead had to be blown apart with gunpowder. Inside, how-

ever, the current Chapel is very picturesque. I also found my way into the Fellows Garden,

which is loaded with beautiful plants.

O ne of the hidden treasures of Oxford Uni-

versity is the Pitt Rivers Museum. It is a

Gothic revival building on the north side

of campus, and was built in the 19th cen-

tury. This is new by Oxford standards. The front of

the building is brick, but extending off the back is a

large collection area with a glass roof allowing natural

sunlight to light the entire museum. For those cases

that are not well lit, the library gives patrons a flash-

light.

The collection is incredibly diverse. Instead of ranking

things by geography or by chronology, the collection

is instead ordered by function. This means that the

exhibit on smoking would include things that were

smoked by the Egyptians, things that were smoked by

Vikings, things are smoked by Americans, and even

cannabis!. Honest to God, the smoking exhibit con-

tains a bag of reefer and a pipe. One of the most un-

usual exhibits pertains to the way man has dealt with

its enemies, and included in this exhibit is the

shrunken head shown at the right. Beth was mesmer-

ized by it!

PITT-RIVERS MUSEUM, OXFORD

Shrunken Heads at Pitt Rivers

FAMOUS FOLKS AT THE ASHMOLEAN MUSEUM, OXFORD

T he Ashmolean Museum at Oxford is a

world class museum. It is filled with

treasures dating back to ancient times. It

has a tremendous collection of marble

statues coming from both Greece and Rome, as

well as other artifacts from that time and place. It

also contains the so-called Alfred Jewel, which is a

gold trinket attesting to the fact that Alfred the

Great ordered that it be created. It is one of the few

artifacts actually tied to that great Saxon King. Also

of interest were the maces representing the differ-

ent faculties of the University and which date back

Grand Staircase

THE ASHMOLEAN MUSEUM

several centuries. Also notable is a Stradivarius

violin which is a so-called “virgin” inasmuch

as it has never been played. It is one of a kind.

The museum was built in the early 19th cen-

tury and is, as you might expect, as solid as the

rock it is made of. Also associated with the

Ashmolean Museum is the Taylor Institute,

which in Oxford speak is known as the Tay-

lorian, which is dedicated to the language arts.

The Ashmolean Museum is not meant to com-

pete with the Pitt Rivers Museum, which con-

tains a more eclectic collection and is slightly

younger than the Ashmolean. The true treas-

ures are in the Ashmolean, while all the cool

stuff is at Pitt-Rivers. Enjoyed them both.

THE ASHMOLEAN MUSEUM

Cardinal Pole and the Lord Protector

J esus College was founded in the late 16th

century and has always attracted students

from Wales. This was reinforced by gen-

erous donations from Queen Elizabeth the

first, whose grandfather, Henry VII, was from

Wales.

For centuries Jesus College was rather small

and undistinguished. However, during the

20th century it became famous for its work in

science and particularly in the field of physics.

The president of my College was a gentleman

named Dr. Louis Salter, who was a Rhodes

scholar and studied physics at Jesus College.

As a matter of fact, he and his wife were mar-

ried in the Chapel on Christmas Eve during

his time there. Also, Byron Trippet, another

president of Wabash College and a Rhodes

scholar, was a student in classics at Jesus Col-

JESUS COLLEGE

A College for the Welsh

JESUS COLLEGE

T he Broad parallels the High. Exe-

ter, Balliol and Trinity Colleges

front this street. There is also a

cross made of bricks which marks

the spot where the Catholics burned the An-

glican Bishops and Archbishop at the stake.

The Broad is also the home of the world fa-

mous Blackwell’s Bookstore.

THE BROAD

THE BROAD

Views on the Broad: Master’s Lodgings, Balliol College;

the Clarendon Building; and old entrance to the old Ash-

molean; Detail of Sheldonian Theater showing the royal

arms of the restored King Charles II

CORPUS CHRISTI COLLEGE, OXFORD

CORPUS CHRISTI COLLEGE, OXFORD

T rinity College is lo-

cated on Broad . It was

originally founded by

Benedictine monks in

the mid-15th century, when it

was known as Durham College.

However, the college was closed

during the Reformation. It was

reopened during the Counter

Reformation, by a catholic named

Pope, and has remained in exis-

tence to this day. It is a rich col-

lege with a beautiful chapel filled

with incredible wood carvings by

Grindling Gibbons..

TRINITY COLLEGE, OXFORD

A Popish College

THE BODLEIAN LIBRARY

Arial and Ancient


“Brideshead Revisited”

Views of Trinity College

Boating Victory; a gar-

den wall, and old gothic

section appended to a

classical block

TRINITY COLLEGE, OXFORD

C orpus Christi College was founded in

the early 16th century by Bishop Fox, of

Winchester. However, it was meant

from the beginning to be a secular insti-

tution. Accordingly, there were many innovations

which became the hallmark of Renaissance think-

ing. The first was a secular library. The Corpus

Christi library was visited and judged by Erasmus

in about 1520 to be one of the best libraries in exis-

tence. Also, the college specialized in classical edu-

cation, including the study of Greek and Arabic.

The study of these languages opened up the an-

cient texts which were all but lost during the me-

dieval period. Corpus was the first college to teach

Greek and Arabic. The college has always been

small and remains so. There are maybe only 400

students, both graduate and undergraduate. The

college sits between Christ Church and Merton

College, with the front gate on Merton Street. It

has a central sundial which tells time 28 different

ways.

A Walk Down The High

THE EXAMINATION SCHOOLS, OXFORD

THE EXAMINATION SCHOOLS, OXFORD

RADCLIFFE SQUARE

The Camera

RADCLIFFE SQUARE

Another Era

RADCLIFFE SQUARE

Steeple and Clarendon

While we were in Oxford, film crews were there

working on the movie “Brideshead Revisited.”

On one of the days of filming I walked through

Radcliffe Square and saw a group of actors

sitting on the front steps of the great Bodleian

Library all of them in period dress from the

early 20th century. The scene abovecould have

been taken in 1910. However, if you look at the

actor closest to the camera, you will see that he

is talking on his cell phone.

RADCLIFFE SQUARE

During my first week at Oxford I came across 5 people who made me

start thinking.

The first was a woman in my class who lived in LA all her life. Then,

for reasons she wouldn’t reveal, she sold all her possessions, and

bought a one way ticket to Heath Row. She came to Oxford for a couple

weeks at Christ Church to think things over,... a pretty nice venue for a

major reinvention. At first, I could not understand it. How could that

possibly be a good move? But I thought about it, and I grew to respect

her bravery in scuttling her old life, of which she had become dissatis-

fied. She obviously had her reasons. And imagine, an absolutely clean

slate, or as clean as one can get in our digital age. Anyway, hats off to

her.

Then there was my tutor, Julian Munby. Our class was on the architec-

FIVE PEOPLE I MET

tural history of various parts of the several colleges and university

buildings. Julian was with an organization called “Oxford Archeology.”

He made it quite clear that he did not attend Oxford as a student. His

work as an archeologist of medieval sites is substantial, but you would-

n’t know it talking to him. He could speak and read Latin, perfectly, and

would read illegible documents. When we would enter a certain build-

ing, he wouldn’t say anything. He would find a comfortable seat, and

start looking at the ceilings, and then work his way down to the floor.

We would all do the same. Then he would talk. Very few words, but

concise. Come to find out, his father was a long time don/professor at

Nuffield College. Julian grew up in Oxford, attended Magdalen College

School, and only went to the University of London because neither Ox-

ford nor Cambridge offered such program. He has been on TV several

times as an expert on English medieval history. He wrote a book on the

medieval architecture of All Souls College, which means he had access

FIVE PEOPLE I MET

to the college, its library and its archives…no small feat. His brother

was the judge of the Paul McCartney divorce. He rode his bike around

Oxford with his old boy muffler wrapped around his neck. Pretty im-

pressive by any measure, but what really came through to me was a guy

who was doing the one thing in his life that he loved, and that is a lux-

ury which cannot be purchased. Together with his incredible humility,

he was a heck of a guy who I greatly admire.

In stark contrast was a man who I call the Dead Lawyer. I sat with him

and his wife for a meal in hall. He was a litigator, and a partner at a

large firm in Minneapolis. His wife did most of the talking. He was so

burned out, he really LOOKED suicidal. He jumped through all the

hoops: college, law school, partnership. And at an incredible cost. Here

he was in the 500 year old hall at Christ Church, and he just wasn’t

there. To me, he was the ghost of Christmas future- What I saw in him,

FIVE PEOPLE I MET

I could somehow see happening me. And with the flip of an anatomical

switch, the guy could have a heart attack or stroke that lays him low.

How incredibly terrible that would be, to live in abject misery, only to

die young.

The next was Mr. Dick Lawyer. Beth and I ate at the same table with

him and his wife toward the head of Christ Church hall on Wednesday

night. There we were, in that beautiful hall, and this nerd with a bowtie

starts regaling us with stories of private dining with Justice Sandra Day

O’Conner. WTF? The stories may have been true... I mean the dude

was wearing a bowtie. But he was such a tool, and a boorish dinner

companion to boot. These guys are so wrapped up in themselves and

their egos that they have no idea how alienating they are, even to peers.

Another helpful lesson for me.

FIVE PEOPLE I MET

Earlier that same evening, in the buttery (“student bar”), just outside

hall, we met a guy who was about 65 years old and was a deputy DA in

Los Angeles. Now for a 65 year old man to be a deputy DA smacks of

underachievement. Perhaps. But the guy was non-assuming, jovial, ap-

propriately talkative about appropriate topics, ego neutral and could

care less about his profession while he was away on vacation, could

care less about his current case load, and could care even less about the

seriousness of it all. He was pragmatic about the criminal justice system

and his role in it. And it was just a role he played…not a life he lived

24/7. This is 180 degrees from the way my career progressed, and the

win at all cost mind set. I envied his freedom that such an outlook

brings.

FIVE PEOPLE I MET

The Earl of Pembroke

stands guard outside the

oldest section of the

Bodleian Library. T he heart of the university, if there is such a

thing, is its great library, known as the

Bodleian.

The Bodleian Library has evolved over sev-

eral centuries, And is the envy of all its rivals. It

started off with very humble beginnings in the 14th

century, when the upstairs of the new Congregation

House was converted into a chained library. It has

seen its growth come in spurts, with great growth in

the 17th century and again in the 20th century.

There is a rule that no books may be checked out of


An Early Library

the Bodleian library. Back during the

reign of Charles I, while he was in exile

in Oxford, requisitioned a book from the

Bodleian and instructed his assistant to

fetch it. However, the request was de-

nied as that is the rule: no books can be

checked out of the Bodleian library.

In the early 15th century, money was

given to the University for the establish-

ment of a library which was to sit atop

the Divinity School. This is known as

Duke Humphrey’s library, Duke Hum-

phrey being the brother of King Henry V

Opposite:

This Page:


The Original Bodleian


From the Divinity School to the Sheldonian

and, more importantly, the uncle of the child King Henry VI. He was a man of learning and

apparently knew Chaucer. He also was a collector of books and manuscripts, which during

this period were written by hand, as the printing press had not yet been invented. Duke Hum-

phrey’s Library still exists, and is visited regularly by tourists. It has a beautiful painted ceiling

showing the arms of various benefactors as well as the arms of the University and several of its

colleges. Funny thing is that despite two visits to Oxford, and having spent 15 days there, I

have yet to visit Duke Humphrey’s Library, although Beth has and says it’s beautiful. Saving it

for trip number 3!


An Ancient View

W EDNESDAY, JULY 18, 2007

We studied the late medieval colleges of Oxford, including St. John's, Christ

Church, Brasenose, All Souls, Magdalen, Corpus Christi, and Trinity Colleges.

On our walk we visited the Sheldonian Theater, as well as Trinity College

Chapel, both designed by Christopher Wren, (or so the people at Trinity would have you be-

lieve, Not really true although he did look at the plans and gave them his blessing). We then

climbed the copula of the Sheldonian theater and could see spires and tower tops of other

buildings. It was quite magnificent. When we walked through the Radcliffe Camera area in

Central Oxford, we noticed a group filming a new version “Brideshead Revisited.” There were

many actors in period costuming, which was interesting, although we did not see any actual

filming taking place at the time. We then climbed the stair steps to the lantern of the Sheldo-

nian and we were treated to a great view of the University and surrounding colleges.

That night, Beth came to dinner at The House, and we sat toward the front of the hall. We did-

n't make any arrangements in advance, just walked in. The setting sun was shining through

SHELDONIAN THEATER

A Polymath named Wren

the 500-year-old stained-glass windows,

which had been blackened during WW II to

protect the ancient glass from German bomb-

ers. Luckily, Oxford was never attacked, as

Hitler believed that after he won the war, Ox-

ford would award him an honorary degree.

The man across from us, sporting a bow tie

and drenched with east coast sleaze, told sto-

ries about his private dinners with Justice San-

dra Day O’Connor. Whatever.

Thursday, July 19th, 2007 I started the day by

eating breakfast in hall. The standard, eggs

and sausage, with the added bonus of “blood

pudding .” MEMO TO SELF: DON’T EAT

BLOOD PUDDING. I knew that today was

going to be especially fun, as we were sched-

uled to see some really cool buildings, and I

was scheduled to dine at high table that night.

It turned out to be the most eventful day of my

adult life...possibly.

SHELDONIAN THEATER

Dinner with a Snob

SHELDONIAN THEATER

Perfectly Aligned Passages

SHELDONIAN THEATER

While eating breakfast, I started talking with a gentle-

man who was obviously a golfer due to the Augusta

National sweater he was wearing. He was a speech pro-

fessor at a university in Pennsylvania. We started talk-

ing about golf and, as it turned out, he brought his

clubs with him. We decided that we would try to find a

place to play that afternoon. But first, off to class.

A Plan to Play Golf

O ne of the oldest structures in Oxford is St. Mary's

church, also known as the University Church.

The oldest portion is the central tower, which

dates back to the 12th century. The spire was

added a couple of centuries later. The principal part of the

church was started in the 15th century, replacing an earlier

structure which was built contemporaneously with the cen-

tral tower. On the Northeast side of the complex is a separate

structure, and yet connected, known as the Congregation

House. The upstairs was the first purpose built room for Uni-

versity purposes and was completed in the early 14th cen-

tury. It has served variously as a classroom, faculty room,

and library.

THE UNIVERSITY CHURCH

A Very Old Church Tower

On the first floor of the congre-

gation house was the room

where the government of Ox-

ford University met. It was

also here that the "chest" was

kept, and which housed all of

the university’s books, which

one will remember were hand

written at the time and were

very rare. On the second floor

is a room which served as the

first library of the University.

The bookshelves were ar-

ranged perpendicular to the

north and south walls, and

these shelves held books

which were chained to the

shelves themselves. This is

what is meant by the phrase

"chained library." Ultimately,

the library was moved to a

purpose built room above the


Library in Chains

Divinity school, but that would not happen for a

century or two.

The church interior seems to be old in places, and

not so old in other places. The church was used for

university functions up until the time the Sheldo-

nian Theater was completed in approximately 1660.

This included graduations as well as disputations. It

was also here that the three protestant bishops were

tried and sentenced to death by fire, which took

place in front of the Balliol College. The three bish-

ops have since become known as the Protestant

Martyrs. During the trial of Archbishop Cranmer,

he recanted his earlier recantation of protestant be-

liefs, thus assuring his soon-to-be future martyr-

dom. As a matter of fact, as the fire was starting to

burn, Cranmer held his right hand in the fire first,

claiming that since it signed the recantation of his


Cookin’ Up Some Bishops


The South Aisle


Fun in the Nave

protestant beliefs that it should be the first to perish by fire. Today, a small circular area about

24 inches in diameter and marked with light colored bricks and four black bricks, forming a

cross, lays in the middle of the Broad, marking the exact spot where the three men were

burned to death. It is an event that is easy to talk about, but not so easy to think about. Imagine

the horror!


Church Details

F rom the Upper Library at Christ

Church we proceeded to the cam-

pus of All Souls College, Oxford,

for a tour of its famous library. The

Codrington Library, built in the early 18th

century, is one of the hardest tickets to get in

Oxford, and very few people even know it

exists due to its ultra low profile and locked

THE CODRINGTON LIBRARY

A Beautiful Library

gate on Catte Street. Julian had contacts there, and

had to use a code to get in the locked gate. Pretty cool!

When we entered, the staff told us that we were not

allowed to photograph the interior, but once it be-

came apparent that we were photographing, we were

not stopped, but instead told that we had to promise

not to publish the photographs on the Internet.


18th Century Desks


A Desk and Blackstone


The Anson Reading Room


Lord Blackstone


The Great Benefactor


Sir Christopher’s Domain


An Inviting Table

A fter touring the Codrington Library, we took

a short walk to the campus of Worcester Col-

lege. Worcester is a very diverse college in

terms of its architecture. On the one hand, it

has a number of buildings known as the Gloucester Col-

lege Buildings. These were a part of the original Glouces-

ter College dating from the 13th century, which housed

and trained Benedictine monks from Canterbury and

other cathedrals. It is interesting to see how short the por-

tals are, reflecting the typical size of individuals 700 years

ago, which is somewhat smaller than we are today. Then

there are the new buildings of the quadrangle which date

to the early 18th century. The North Range is taken up by

a classical building, much like the New Building at Mag-

dalen College, and was probably designed and built in the

mid 18th century. On the East End of the quadrangle

there is a classical building built in the late 18th or early

19th centuries. I believe this building contains a li-

brary. To the west of the main quadrangle is a large

A College with a Lake

WORCESTER TO HIGH TABLE TO AN INCREDIBLE DECISION

wooded expanse which is unique to all the colleges at Ox-

ford. This wooded expanse has a number of trails, and

small bridges crossing over bubbling creeks, and a rather

large lake which makes up the far western end of the cam-

pus. It is the best kept secret in Oxford.

After the tour of Worcester College was completed, we

were dismissed and I noted that I was running late for my

tee time with Greg. I ran the mile and a half from Worces-

ter College back to The House, where I eventually hooked

up with Greg. We went to a golf course on the south side

of town known as Hinksey Heights. The golf course there

was set out over a series of giant hills, and it would have

helped to have been part billygoat. Because Greg's clubs

were custom-made, they did not work very well for me and

I shot a terrible score. After nine holes I ended the misery

and I headed back to the college to prepare for dinner.

Golf




As I said, on Thursday night I was scheduled from

our group to dine at high table in the hall at Christ

Church. What an experience that was! After dressing

up in a blue blazer and tie, myself and the 30 other

individuals dining at high table met in the hall for

drinks prior to dinner.

We were lead to high table and assigned our

seats. My seat was two seats away from the seat of

the master of the college, which is located in the cen-

ter of the long table. When one considers the various

High Table at the House


historical personages who have dined at Christ Church in the years from 1517 through the pre-

sent, one cannot help but stand in awe of the historical significance of the place.

Because of the golf outing I was very thirsty throughout dinner, and made pretty short work of

the various bottles of spring water and sparkling water provided to us by the staff, all in cus-

tom bottled containers, which carried the Christ Church arms. Nice. We were also served all

the wine we could drink, which of course made for a fine evening. It too, was custom bottled

for Christ Church complete with the college arms on the label. My friend Greg was kind

enough to come up, get my camera and take my photograph. The picture turned out well and

I must say it is one of my most favorite pictures because of the circumstances and location.

After dinner we adjourned and I went back to my room. After reading for an hour or two I got

an incredible sweet tooth and decided to do something about it. I made my way across the

quad and across the street to an ice cream shop where I enjoyed a significant chocolate

brownie sundae. It was about 11 pm.

Friday, July 20, 2007 Hello again. Unfortunately, the caffeine in the chocolate sundae, and the

Some Very Rarified Air


massive sugar infusion, kept me awake and the crash

from the sugar buzz left me all the more hungry when I

woke up in the middle of the night at about 4:30. It was

not yet raining, but there was significant rain in the

forecast. The first rain in 13 days of our trip. I was abso-

lutely starving and made my way to the McDonald's

located on Corn market Street for an early-morning bite

at 5:30. It was still not raining. After this snack, I went

back to my room and waited for breakfast in the hall.

While I was waiting for that, it started to rain, and rain,

and rain even harder, and while I sat watching the rain

cascade like West Virginia rapids down the roof of the

Meadows Building, I began to think about my career as

a lawyer and my dissatisfaction with what my law firm

had become. I came to the conclusion that it was time to

make a change. I have had the urge before, but never

followed through. I started typing my ideas on my

computer, as it slowly became daylight, and all the

while the rain kept coming, stronger and stronger. I de-

cided it was far too wet to go to class and tour a bunch

of boring buildings built in the last 50 years. Instead, I

stayed in my 200 year old room in a 500 year old build-

ing, and continued brainstorming my defection from

An Incredible Rain


Adios!


A Farewell Dinner

Hotel Mansfield

MANSFIELD COLLEGE, OXFORD

A nd while my program lasted

only one week, Beths pro-

gram at Mansfield college

lasted two weeks. I had origi-

nally planned on leaving Oxford after the

conclusion of my week, and then traveling

to both Cambridge and then the town of

Rye for some additional sightseeing and

traditional English links golf. Sadly, the

rainstorm on Friday caused massive flood-

ing throughout England and was even a

part of the national news for the very same

week that we were there. Therefore, I

could not drive, take a bus, or take a train

really anywhere outside of Oxford due to

the massive flooding. What is strange is

that being in Oxford for that tragic week,

in this section of Oxford where the univer-

sity is, we really had very little idea of how

bad it was. The river was certainly swollen

and there were no boat rides, near the uni-

versity there was no destructive flooding

of any significance.

The Mansfield Building

and the Hall So I really had two options: I could either look for a hotel room

around Oxford for probably about $350 American per night, or

find some other place to sleep. Luckily, Beth had a second bed in

her room, and it was no problem staying there even though I felt

somewhat guilty. Not only did I get to stay there, but I had din-

ner at high table on Thursday!

Mansfield college was founded in the late 19th century as an in-

stitution for theological study outside the Church of England.

These establishments and religions of various sorts were called

“nonconforming.” Even though Mansfield was close to the doz-

ens of Oxford colleges, and even though it had a student body, it

did not become an Oxford college until just recently.

It’s buildings were designed by famous English architect named

Basil Champneys. it has one large block of classrooms library and

Hall. It then has a very large masters Lodge which is just west of

the main college building area. Directly across from the gate-

house of the principal college building is a recently built student

lodgings. This is where Beth had her rooms.


Non-Conforming College


Mansfield Hall

The View from Beth’s desk


B eth and I

spent the

day explor-

ing Ox-

ford. At one point we visited Magdalen

College where we were able to view the

hall as well as the chapel. Both structures

date from approximately 1450 when the

college was first founded. The college is

filled with stone carvings of the Coat of

Arms, some of which were hundreds of

years old. We also toured the college’s

famed cloisters, which also date from the

college's founding in the mid-15th cen-

tury. We had lunch in the old kitchen,

which was the original kitchen of the hos-

pital of St. Johns, which predated Magda-

len College. It is estimated that this

kitchen was built close to 1400. It is lo-

cated on the river, and the college stretches

northward along the River Cherwell quite

a distance, enclosing a large Deer Park.

Sunday, June 23, 2007 we had planned to

take boat rides with the other members of

The Arms of Magdalen College, Oxford

MAGDALEN COLLEGE

Beth's class. Unfortunately, due to the

amount of rain, no boat rides being of-

fered. Instead we made a quick trip to

the Botanical Garden which is across the

street from Magdalen College. However,

the admission price was rather salty and

so we did not visit the entire garden but

did see enough of it to remem-

ber. Instead, we toured the precincts of

the old university including the book-

stores and shops on The High, Cornmar-

ket, and The Broad.

That night we ate at the Pizza Hut in the

High. Believe it or not, it tasted excellent

and was a real departure from tradi-

tional English fare which we had been

eating for the prior two weeks. The Brits

are not known for their cuisine.

Monday, July 23, 2007 Beth’s classes re-

sumed and I had the run of the town. I

visited most of the colleges which were

Pizza Hut on the High

MAGDALEN COLLEGE

Ancient Doorways

MAGDALEN COLLEGE

MAGDALEN COLLEGE

MAGDALEN COLLEGE

open to the public. During my time in Oxford I

was able to explore Merton College, Christ

Church, Corpus Christi College, Mansfield Col-

lege, New College, All Souls College, Magdalen

College, Jesus College, Exeter College, Trinity

College, Queens College, Worcester College, and

St. Edmunds Hall. Hard to believe, but each is

unique.

I also spent some time in the Oxford public li-

brary. On the third floor was a department

which was dedicated to the various col-

leges. While I was there I read a book on the

American Rhodes Scholars which included a ref-

erence to my history teacher at Wabash, Dr.

James Barnes. He was a Rhodes Scholar in the

Views of Chapel at two different times of day; and

Hall, Magdalen College

College Crawl

MAGDALEN COLLEGE

same class as Senator Richard Lugar. He is a notable Rhodes Scholar because of his blindness. I

visited all the medieval churches I could, soaking in the architecture and historical monu-

ments. After a while they start looking alike.

I typically ate a light lunch and, for the most part walked around all day. I probably lost 10

Kicking Around Oxford

MAGDALEN COLLEGE

Queens College Evensong

MAGDALEN COLLEGE

pounds while I was in Oxford. At night, while Beth was dining at Mansfield College, I usually

dined at the Mitre Inn which is also located on High Street and is one of the old medieval tav-

erns still in existence. It is actually owned by Lincoln College, which is located immediately to

the east, next-door.

Wednesday, July 25, 2007 After roaming Oxford for the day, I attended Evensong services at

Queens College, Oxford. During the service, selected high school students were given the op-

portunity to compete for the position of Organ Scholar at Queens. I am sure it comes with a

nice scholarship, not to mention the prestige of the post. During each portion of the service, a

different candidate would play the organ, which was on the balcony over the entrance to the

chapel. The chapel was built in the early 1700s and is Greco-Roman, which was a vast depar-

ture from the Gothic architecture which I most common. They claim it was designed by Wren.

Queen’s College is one of the hard ones to get in, and this was an excellent opportunity to view

the interiors and the quadrangles.

Queens College Organ Scholars

Magdalen Hall, water pump

Opposite, The New Building, Various Portals

MAGDALEN COLLEGE MAGDALEN COLLEGE

After Evensong I went back to Mansfield

College, where I dined in hall with Beth

and members of her group at the high ta-

ble. The Mansfield hall was built in the

late 19th century and is Gothic in

style. The food was quite good, as well as

a wine and the desert. So, after two weeks

in Oxford, I can claim to dining at two

high tables, at Christ Church and Mans-

field College. Beth can claim to have dined

in three halls, including Mansfield, Christ

Church, and Pembroke College.

Friday, July 27, 2007 we awoke and began

the journey home. The train was not run-

ning to London because of the floods, and

so we made arrangements to ride the bus

Mansfield High Table with Beth

MAGDALEN COLLEGE

from Oxford to Heathrow Airport, London

which went off without a hitch except for the

fact that while we were leaving Oxford there

was apparently some sort of mechanical diffi-

culty with the bus which required some deci-

sions being made by the bus driver as to

whether he would continue to Heathrow or

not. Fortunately for our timetable, he opted to

make the trip. When we arrived at Heathrow

we checked in and then ate at the TGI Friday's

restaurant which is located in the airport. We

departed for home at approximately 4 o'clock

London time. We landed approximately 9

hours later at seven o'clock p.m. local time in

Chicago. However, according to our clocks, it

was about three o'clock in the morning. We

were able to get our luggage and go to the Hil-

ton Hotel, which is located just inside the air-

port, where we used some of our overnight

bonus nights through the Hilton Honors

awards program. The next morning, Satur-

Back to Heathrow

Opposite: Views of Magdalen College.

This page: Punts, and the gate to The

Queen’s College

MAGDALEN COLLEGE

THE QUEEN’S COLLEGE

NEW COLLEGE LANE

Magdalen College

MAGDALEN COLLEGE

Opposite: Along the banks

of the Cherwell

This Page: Upstream;

College Portals

Magdalen College, Oxford

MAGDALEN COLLEGE

day, we made our way downtown,

where we caught the Indiana train,

and made the trip to the Indiana

Dune's State Park. There we were met

by Beth’s mom, who took us back to

Logansport and we arrived safely, but

changed.

It was a trip, I think, that changed the

way both of us look at the world. Beth

was rejuvenated courtesy of Eli Lilly,

and I was a changed and changing

man. In many ways, I went to Eng-

land, and never came home.

.

Home

MAGDALEN COLLEGE

Documents

English Journal: Travels in England, 2007, Vol. 2