Eco Friendly Textile

8/10/2019 Eco Friendly Textile

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TECHNOLOGY OF ECO-FRIENDLY TEXTILE

PROCESSING- A ROUTE TO SUSTAINABILTY

KEYNOTE PRESENTED BY

Asif Muhammad Sami

BSc . Textil e Engg, MBA , CText (ATI), Fellow - IEB, Textile Consult antCEO- EuroAsiatic Resources, Chairman - S S Vision Ltd &

Textile Consultant - Perseus Ltd.

Cell: 01819213971, email: [email protected]


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ABSTRACTS:

Textile Project like eco-friendly or green project must bedesigned for sustainable green factory building conceptalso textile raw materials , dyes & chemicals, textileprocesses all should be based on 3R (reduce-recycle-reuse) concept.

The processing of textiles should be cost effective andenvironment-friendly. Innovative and efficient strategiesto achieve these goals are needed. This paper reportsvarious problems in different stages of processingtextile materials and theirgreen solutionsthealternatives by which the problems can be avoided

through innovative techniques and various measures oftextile cleaner production(CP)which ensures textileprocessing eco-friendly, cost effective andsustainable business.


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ECO FRIENDLY / GREEN TEXTILES CONCEPT

The project factory building should be designed on go greenconcept.

Textile raw materials are processed in eco-friendly manner

and certified by GOTS etc.

Dyes and chemicals should be OKEOTEX certified standard.

Textile processing right from Raw fiber, Yarn manufacturing,Weaving/knitting, wet processing, finishing processes allshould be maintained using eco- friendly technology.

Textile waste water should be treated considering basis of 3R(reduce- recycled & re-use ) concept.


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ECO- FRIENDLY TEXTILES PROCESSING CONCEPT

Textile Cleaner Production (CP) like Water saving, energy

savings using all possible methods.

Re-use of textile waste, recycled & re-use of waste water,

recovering and re-using salt, re-use of waste heat energy.

Carbon emission control

Environmental sustainability care for the environment- Influence the supply chain to use sustainable

processes/method.

Operate business in environmental friendly way.

Work to conserve water, energy and reduce / recycle waste.

Sustainable design approachexplore the use sustainable

materials and products.


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NEED FOR ECO- FRIENDLY & RECYCLABLE +

RE-USABLE TEXTILES:

Concerns related to textile industries are-

Textiles production and processing- chemical intensive

applications

Associated social and environmental concerns

GROWING CONCERNS- Increasing industrial pollution

Industrial waste disposal problems

Economic and social health of the farmers and industrial

workers.

Unawareness about socially responsible business structures

are required.


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ENERGY SAVING GREEN FACTORY BUILDING SHED:

Using insulation of building walls, floor & ceiling.

Replace old windows which are bad thermal insulators.

Make the building shell as air tight as possible.

Install heat exchange for proper ventilation.

Roof of sunny side should use collects solar energy. Heavily frequented door should have automatically closing

system.

Light from shaded side yields natural light but not heat.

New building using geothermal energy exchange.

Use of insulation of all steam pipe and wire duct.

Using rain water for garden irrigation, technical use or as

toilet flash water.


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WHY WE ALL NEED TO BE CONCERN ABOUT ECO-

FRIENDLY (GREEN) PROCESSING IN TEXTILES:

Textiles /Garment industry is contributing to the global warming& pollution from the stages like -

Cultivation of the fibres

Yarn manufacture

Fabric manufacture wet processing

Manufacturing of the garment

Transportation to customers

Usage and disposal


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ECO-FRIENDLY OR GREEN SOLUTIONS

Substitute cotton for other natural eco- friendly materials like

hemp, wool, organic cotton, soy silk, bamboo fabrics ,jute,

corn fibre etc having without any harmful effects of chemicals

or toxics.

Synthetic fabrics such as polyesters are

- Easy care and more durable alternative to natural fabrics.

- These are more energy intensive in production, but these

fibers need to be washed at lower temperatures thus saving

a lot of energy throughout their life cycle.


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Cellulose based fibres like viscose can be used.

There are now developments of new fibres of natural origin likeTencel (Lyocell) made from wood.

EXAMPLES OF SOME ECO-FRIENDLY FIBERS :

Organic Cotton, Organic wool, Organic Silk, Organic Jute etc

Manmade fibers like corn/Soya bean, Pineapple, Banana leaf, Lyocell

Recycled fibers like Recycled Cotton, Recycled Polyester

Natural fiber like colored Raw Cotton


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ORGANIC COTTONA SUSTAINABLE ALTERNATIVES

SOCIAL AND ENVIRONMENTAL BENEFITS

Organic Cotton helps in pollution control, improving soil

fertility.

Organic cotton farming helps in preventing contamination of

water, soil & air.

Apart from using in all diversified products, organic cotton

also suitable for baby products, apparels, hygiene and careproducts like cotton balls, ear buds, sanitary pads, medical

textiles, cosmetics bags etc.


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RECYCLED COTTON;

RECYCLED COTTON is nothing but made from recovered

cotton that would otherwise be cast off during either spinning,weaving, knitting or garment cutting process.

THE DISCARDED COTTON WASTE from above mentioned

process are collected , shredded into small fibers and

processed once again into yarns and fabrics in cost effectivemethod.

RECYCLED COTTON is also known as eco friendly choice in

clothing fashion industry.

COTTON WASTE RE-CYCLING PROCESS involves no

chemical addition rather it helps in generating employment

and better positive impact in the environment (clean

production).


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RECYCLED POLYESTER (PET):

Polyester is one the most non-biodegradable polymer which

creates environmental problems.

Wellman inc. Introduced in 1993 as the first polyester textile

fiber made from post consumer pet packaging.

Recycled pet is used in diversified products like backpacks and

blankets, t-shirts, sportswear, soft luggage and socks etc.

Eco friendly recycled pet is certified by OEKOTEX and SGS

etc.


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STAGE 2: YARN FABRICATION AND FABRIC

MANUFACTURE

Contributors to carbon footprint

There are many stages required to process cotton from fibre

to fabrics the fibre are cleaned, carded (combed) spun into

yarn, coated with starches or chemicals, woven or knitted

into fabrics,


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CONTRIBUTORS TO CARBON FOOTPRINT & GREEN

SOLUTION

In sizing process ,starch is used in sticky paste form toyarn to enhance its strength and its abrasion resistance. The

starch paste consists of preservative in order to protect it from

the stains get formed on the fabrics surface.

Some preservatives like penta-chloro phenol that are toxic

effect on human skin, should be avoided by utilizing a

synthetic starchdecreasing the health hazards.

Use oil stain removerduring the weaving operations before

textile wet process so that oil stains do not get formed.


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PROCESS INVOLVEDCONTRIBUTION TOPOLLUTIONS

FIBRE PREPARATION

YARN SPINNING

Fiber waste,

Packaging waste,packaging waste, sized

yarn, fiber waste,

cleaning and processing

waste


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PROCESS INVOLVEDCONTRIBUTION TO POLLUTIONS

SLASHING/SIZING

WEAVING

KNITTING

Fiber lint, yarn waste, unused

starch based sizes, water with

high level of BOD, COD

Packaging waste, yarn waste

and fabric scraps, used oil.

Waste yarn and fabric scraps

packaging


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WASTE YARN AND FABRIC SCRAPS PACKAGING

Textile processing industry requires huge volume of water ,

energy & various chemicals for Desizing, Scouring,

Mercerization, dyeing, printing and finishing stage.

Textile industry, backbone of fashion garments, is large

variation in demand of type, pattern & color of fabric resulting

into significant fluctuation in waste generation.

Textile processing generates much waste steam, including

liquid gaseous and solid wastes, some of which may be

hazardous.

Wet processing creates the highest volume of waste water.

Textile finishing represents the most variable area in the

production process. A wide and ever-growing range of finishes

are now available that either improves the properties, handle or

texture of the fabric.


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TEXTILE WET PROCESSING- VITAL ENVIRONMENTAL

ISSUE

Some important environmental concerns related to textilewet processing;

Intensive chemical based wet processing like scouring,bleaching, mercerizing, dyeing, printing etc

Heavy metalslike iron, lead, copper etc consist indyestuffs auxiliaries, binders etc.

Residual dyestuffs, chemicals in water:due to poordye fixation with fiber.

PVC and Phathalets:used in Plastisol printing pasteand colorant fixatives.

Formaldehyde: found in dispersing agents, printingpaste and colorant fixatives.

Dye effluent-wastewater issue.


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CONTRIBUTORS TO CARBON FOOTPRINT

The conventional preparation process of Desizing, Scouring

and Bleaching with their related wash-off stages, producesheavy BODin effluents.

Chlorine used in bleaching creates halogenated organic

substances, of which some are suspected to be carcinogenic

e.G.., Chloroform thus is not preferred.

Use of banned amines and toxic dyes,banned amines are

the chemicals which are released from some of the azo dyes

on reductive cleavage. These are suspected to be

carcinogenic and being banned.

Carriers ( disperse dyes) and solventsmay be emitted

during dyeing operations may lead to volatilization of aqueous


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hemical emulsions during heat setting, drying or curing process, thus

creating harmful volatile organic compounds.

Acetic acid and Formaldehyde are two major emissions of concern in

textiles.

Textile mills usually generate Nitrogen and Sulphur oxides from boilers.

Significant sources of air emissions in textile operations -Resin finishing

and dyeing operations, printing, fabric preparation and waste water

treatment plants hydrocarbons are emitted .These processes can emit

formaldehyde, acids, softeners and other volatile compounds.

Wool industry used chlorine based compounds for anti-shrinking

dealing and such practice also generates toxic effluents.

Oxalic Acid is used for removing rust stains before bleaching. The

oxalic acid is lethal aquatic organisms and increase COD & BOD to a

significant level.


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TEXTILE PROCESSES CONTRIBUTION TO POLLUTION

SIZING

DESIZING

SCOURING

BLEACHING

Penta-chloro phenol as anti

mildew agent

Vocsfrom glycol esters

Emulsifying agents like nonyl

phenyl ethyloxylates, chloroformas scoring assistance.

Hypochlorite (chlorine bleaching)

products like chlorine dioxide


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TEXTILE PROCESSES CONTRIBUTION TO POLLUTIONS

DYEING & PRINTING

FINISHING

Azo dyes containing

carcinogenic amines

CDFA based on formaldehydes

dyes containing heavy metals

such as Iron, Zinc etc

Formaldehyde as mordant

Formaldehyde fixer/binder inpigment printing

Formaldehyde as cross linker

Reactive softener

metal fluorides, DDT, and other

anti bacterial materialscontaining metals in rot proofing.

Amides like melamine amides in

water repellent


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ECO-FRIENDLY OR GREEN SOLUTIONS:

Dyes made from natural pigments and soymilkused as

binding agent and sizing agent makes the whole dyeing gentler

on the environment.

Dyes that forms carcinogenic amines on reduction and thus

increase bod/cod need to be avoided.

Where possible, use high fastness direct dyes having 90%upto 99% exhaustion rate should be chosen instead of using

reactive dyes which having low exhaustion rate 65%-75% to

reduce dyeing cost as well as etp running cost.

Usage of Hydrolas a substitute of sodium sulphide isrecommended for sulphur dyeing.

low salt

Dyeing process requires more salt for exhaustion. So usage

dyes may be used.


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An integrated chemical pre-treatment (single bath

process)

i.e. Combined Desizing, Scouring, Bleaching is

recommended to reduce the water, chemical consumption

and also energy.

Fabrics to be dyed with deeper shades may not be bleached.

In case of dyeing and printing toxic chemicals may be

avoided.

Formaldehyde free resins and finishing chemicals may be

used for finishing.


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SUSTAINABLE PROCESSING OF TEXTILES:

EXPLORE INTO BIO PROCESSING OF TEXTILES -

Bio-processing can simply be defined as the applicant of livingorganisms and their components to industrial products and

processes, which are mainly based on enzymes. Like-

Enzymatic Desizing- by using Amylase bacteria.

Enzymatic bio scouring ( by using lipase/cellulase enzyme)-saves water by 30% and energy upto 60%, less fabric weight loss &

strength loss, better fabric quality and enhanced color brightness

after dyeing & low TDS in discharge.

Enzymatic bleaching(Catalases/laccases for removal of H2O2)

saves water, energy, shorten bleaching process cycle, eco friendly

process and consistent bleaching result, saves chemicals.

* Bio polishing and Eznymatic based softeners (Cellulase) etc-

enzymatic bio-finishing yields a cleaner surface, softer hand-feel,

reduces pilling and increases luster.


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EXPLORE INTO BIO PROCESSING OF TEXTILES -

BIO-STONE WASHING (DENIM FINISHING)Using a special

cellulase enzymeinstead of pumic stones. Cellulase works

by loosening the indigo dye on the denim in a process known

as bio-stonewashing. A small dose of enzyme can replace

several kilograms of pumice stones. The use of less pumice

stones results in less damage to garment, machine and less

pumice dust in the laundry environment; in addition, itspossible to fade denim without risk of damaging the garment.

DECOLORIZATION OF DYE HOUSE EFFLUENT BY ENZYME:

Laccase enzymse produced from fungi like Trametes Modestaor Trametes Versicolo etc as Fungi are used for dye

decolourization in effluent treatment which is major factor for

environmental issue.


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ECO-FRIENDLY SUPLHUR DYEING METHOD:Since sulphur dyesas single dyes alone consumption 20%-25% for cotton dyeingin the world. Using eco-friendly thioria di-oxide or indirectcathodic reduction/electrolysis method ( although relativeexpensive than traditional method) avoiding traditional sodiumsulphide can save dyes consumption.

ECOFRIENDLY REACTIVE DYEING:Various environmentalproblems encountered in reacting such as high levels salt &high color concentration ( unfixed dyes) in effluent with hugevolume of water consumed.Reactive dyes poor fixation ofranging 10%-40% dyestuff hydrolysed goes down drain whichis aesthetically unpleasant, blocks sunlight, algae

overpopulate, reduction in o2levels in water, suffocation offlora and fauna in water courses. Therefore, water effluenttreatment plant is now becoming prime consideration by theindustry and equally important as the production of textileproduct itself.


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Significant amount of water consumption, energy

consumption, dyeing cost and effluent load can minimized

by using either cationic surfactants (instead of salts) Ordyes with high exhaustion rate 90%-99% ( preferably direct

dyes) instead of reactive dyes with low exhaustion rate 60%-

80%)

As a result of being cationic (instead of anionic) pretreated

cotton, the number advantages recorded such as:

No requirement for salt

Nucleophiles in polymer more reactive than hydroxyl roups in

fibre.

Neutral ph of application Hydrolysis minimised

Colour fixation yield maximised

Colour fixation yield maximised

Less colour in effluent


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Less wash-off requirement

Significant reduction in operation time

Significant reduction in water consumption

DEGREE OF FIXATION OF DIFFERENT DYES ON FIBER

ARE FOLLOWS:

DYES----------- FIBER----------%FIXATION ----%LOSS IN ETP

ACID DYES----POLYAMIDE--- 80-90--------------5.0-- 20.0

BASIC DYES---- ACRYLIC--------- 95-100-------0.05.0

DIRECT DYES --- CELLULOSE---85 - 99-------1.015.0 REACTIVE DYES -CELLULOSE-50.0- 85.0----15.050.0

SULPHUR DYES-- CELLULOSE--60.0- 90.0---10.0-- 40.0

DISPERSE DYES --- PES----------90.0100.0----0.010.0

METAL COMPLEX --- WOOL-------9098 -------2.0


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WATER FREE DYEING(SUPERCRITICAL FLUID DYEING):

Uses carbon dioxide as the fluid medium on disperse-dyedsynthetics, eliminating aqueous effluent.


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ECO- FRIENDLY EFFLUENT TREATMENT METHOD (BIO

TECHNOLGY):

Combined biological system with electron- beam or advancedoxidation process (AOP) method or Reverse Osmosis (RO).


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SCHEMATIC PROCESS FLOW DIAGRAM OF ELOECTRON

BEAM METHOD COMBINATION WITH BIOLOGICAL SYSTEM

ETP


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CLEANER PRODUCTION (CP) IN THE TEXTILE WET

PROCESSING

For sustainable eco-friendly textile processing ,cleanerproduction in each stage of specially textile wet processing is

must. Cleaner production includes:

Steam trap maintenance

Insulation of un insulated steam and condensate return

pipelines

Insulation of steam valves, tanks, pumps etc.

Re-use flash steam

Using boiler economizer

Insulated hot water tank with dyeing machine.


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CLEANER PRODUCTION (CP) IN THE TEXTILE WET

PROCESSING

Condensate recovery Following right first time (RFT) dyeing method concept.

Use multi functional concentrated chemicals and high

exhaustion rate dyes reduces effluent problems.

Huge water savingsby adopting eliminate water leaks in

taps and pipes, use rain water, closed cooling system,

continuous dyeing, digital printing, co2 dyeing, reduce

washing and rinsing process cycles,

Reuse water drained out of steam condensates

Minimize washing and rinsing (overflow) operations

CLEANER PRODUCTION IN THE TEXTILE WET


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PROCESSING

Reuse of the first wash water from solution preparation tanks

Restrain hose pipe use and create a central cut sample washing place.

Insulate steam pipes Optimize operation of air compressors and chilling plants

Use transparent roofs

Reduce spillage of chemicals

Use of magnetic device for soft water in boiler.

Recover and reuse of waste heat ( using heat exchanger)

Co-generation/ tri generation system where ever feasible.

Using frequency inverter, peak load management, servo motor where

ever applicable, electronic ballast, energy saving lights,

Increase fabric to water ratio to 1:6 or even less.

Automatic boiler blow down mechanism

Recovery & re-use of sodium sulfate using zero discharge etp

Improve process control stages to avoid reprocessing

Improve trial recipe in laboratory


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CLEANER PRODUCTION IN THE TEXTILE WET

PROCESSING



Use of magnetic device for soft water in boiler.

Recover and reuse of waste heat ( using heat exchanger)

Co-generation/ tri generation system where ever feasible.

Using frequency inverter, peak load management, servomotor where ever applicable, electronic ballast, energysaving lights,

Increase fabric to water ratio to 1:6 or even less.

Automatic boiler blow down mechanism

Recovery & re-use of sodium sulfate using zero discharge etp




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STAGE 4: GARMENT MANUFACTURING

CONTRIBUTORS TO CARBON FOOTPRINT Many processes are involved in garment manufacturing and

pollution occurs in each and every stage.

1. In designing department making of prototypes produces

garbages like fabric scraps, pattern papers stationary items,

etc.

2. Production department undertakes spreading, cutting and

sewing responsibility. This department generates largeamount of waste in form of cardboard boxes, labels, tapes,

thread cones, stickers and fabric scraps


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3.Finishing department contributes to pollution while the fabric

goes various processes like washing, pressing, stain removal,

inspection, folding and packing. This consumes water and

also some chemicals such as detergents, liquid soap,acetone, amyl, etc. Which are used in washing and stain

removal and garbages also produced in packing of materials.

4. Miscellaneous sections include computerised embroidery

section, effluent treatment plant, kitchen, canteen, mess and

general maintenance which also contribute in pollution.


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DEPARTMENTSCONTRIBUTIONS TOPOLLUTIONS

ADMINISTRATIVE

DEPARTMENTS

DESIGN & LINE DEVELOPMENT

DEPERTMENTS

PRODUCTION DEPARTMENT

FINISHING DEPARTMENT

MISCELLANEOUS DEPARTMENT

Stationary waste, packing waste,

etc

Packing waste, fabric waste,

paper pattern waste, etc

yarn waste, packing waste,

threads, tapes, fusing rolls, fabric

scraps, ploy bags and stickers. Packing waste, chemicals

contributing to high bod/cod

levels in waste water.

Packing waste, fabric scraps and

fuel

ECO FRIENDLY OR GREEN SOLUTIONS


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Various elements that are used in design i.E, colour, texture,

fasteners, fabrics, etc, the components of these should be

maintained as a ready data bank.

Biodegradable trims should be preferred against synthetic trims

e.G., Natural buttons made up of peral, wood, shell, leather,

porcelain and bone.

Plastic and metal buttons may be avoided.

Avoid use of fusible interfacings, which incorporate solvent

treated adhesives as solvents like formaldehyde have beenclassified as unsafe for the environment as per standard given

by OEKO-TEX 100.

* Use of materials such as heavy metals like chrome, lead, nickel

used as fasteners like zippers and buttons are considered

unfriendly to environment.


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Use of large baler bags for storage or supplies especially at fabric

store where the fabric is stored in individual poly bags.

CAD & CAM system can be used to gain optimum fabric Utilization.

Installation of leds (9w) at the needle points of sewing machines will

help to reduce the overall requirements of tube lights in the stitching

section.

Regular maintenance, lubrication and upkeep of the machine using

white oil Mobil oil will result in improvement in efficiency of the machine.

Usage of eco-friendly lubricants and stain removers, which are free

from chlorinated solvents.

Prefer using of eco friendly hang tags that can be hung to the garment

by thread rather than using plastic staple or string.

* Apparel can be packaged in bio-degradable pvc-free packaging and in

100% recycled cardboard boxes.


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STEP 5: TRANSPORTATION AND DISTRIBUTION

CONTRIBUTION TO POLLUTION

Some forms of transportation have more emissionsthan the others for e.g. Transporting one tonne of goodsover a distance of 100 km emits 0.7 kg of CO2 by ship,or 158.0 kg by air.


Use the bus or train rather than car for transportinggoods and for travelling purpose.

Consider cleaner fuels like ethanol e10 or Bio-dieselwhich reduces CO2 emission significant amount.


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STAGE 6: USE OF TEXTILE GOODS AND DISPOSAL


More than last two decades clothing has become increasingly

affordable for everyone. Retailers and brands have

capitalized on this affordability by moving away from summer

and winter collection to fresh collections more than last twodecades clothing has become increasingly affordable for

everyone.

ECO FRIENDLY OR GREEN SOLUTIONS


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Recycle as much as possible.For example, old fabrics can

be used to make wipes or to make quilts, appliqu work.

Cellulosic waste fabric can be recycled for making handmade

paper.

ENVIRONMENTAL SUSTAINABILITY

Need to believe in environmental sustainability

Implementing incremental steps in supply chain process to

accomplish.

Need to be aware about the social, economical and ecologicalbenefits of environmentally sustainable product development

processes.

CONCLUSION:


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CONCLUSION:

The concept of eco-friendly designing products from start to

finish has come about. It involves considering the ecological

dimension of the entire production process, from the fibre to the

finished product, including its manufacturing processes, butalso its packaging and labeling, right the way through to

recycling & reuse the product at the end of its period following

3R concept.

So sustainable green trends in processing of textiles are:

Maintaining of high & consistent quality product in costeffective manner.

Improved functionality

Lower generation of aqueous waste and off- gases

Minimum use or reuse of water and chemicals

Overall environment friendliness.

Reduce water and energy consumption during preparation,

coloration and finishing (CP).

Improve process efficiency

-Reduce exposure to hazardous chemicals


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QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS ???


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Eco Friendly Textile