EAT Magazine Jan | Feb 2011

JANUARY

|FEBRUARYl2011|Issue15-01|THISCOPYISFREE

www.EATmagazine.ca

CELEBRATING THE FOOD & DRINK OF

VANCOUVER ISLAND

Best Brunch

RESTAURANTS | RECIPES | WINES | CULINARY TRAVELVOTE FOR YOUR FAVOURITE

RESTAURANT + MORE...

Exceptional Eats! READERS’ RESTAURANT, FOOD & DRINK AWARDS

SpecialVoting Begifor the 2011Reader Awa

Main PlCare-Free, GA Foodie YeVegetarianBrunch RecRamen NooMaster CooMobile Eate

TapasConcierge DEpicure At LLocal FoodTop Shelf .Get Fresh .Food MatteGood for Yo

eat m

EAT isthroug

Follow u

CommunityComox ValPegg, Okan

ContributoPam DurkinKusiewicz, KMartin, SanRing, SolomSylvia Wein

FO

Publisher PAdvertisingAll departmtel. 250-38editor@eatAlso visit: w

Since 1998be reproduceensure accuromissions thanecessarily tadvertisemen

3www.eatmagazine.ca JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2011

SpecialVoting Begins . . . . . . . . . . . .06for the 2011 Exceptional Eats!Reader Awards

Main PlatesCare-Free, Gluten-Free . . . .20A Foodie Year in Review . . .22Vegetarian Revolution . . . .24Brunch Recipes . . . . . . . . . .26Ramen Noodle Houses . . . .29Master Cooking Class . . . . .30Mobile Eateries . . . . . . . . . .40

TapasConcierge Desk . . . . . . . . . . 08Epicure At Large . . . . . . . . . .10Local Food Hero . . . . . . . . . .11Top Shelf . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12Get Fresh . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13Food Matters . . . . . . . . . . . . .14Good for You . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15

Restaurant Reporter . . . . . . 16EatingWell for Less . . . . . . .17News from around BC . . . . .34Liquid Assets . . . . . . . . . . . . 41Craft Beer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42The Mixologist . . . . . . . . . . .43Grenache . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .44Chefs’ Talk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .45Valentine’s Day Pairings . . .46

COVER: Best Brunch: Recipes begin on page 26.Photo byMichael Tourigny, Styled by Jennifer Danter.

eat magazine JANUARY | FEB 2011

EAT is delivered to over 200 free pick-up locations in BC andthrough the Wednesday home delivery of the Globe and Mail.

Follow us on twitter.com/EatMagazine

Editor in Chief Gary HynesContributing Editor Carolyn Bateman,

Vancouver Contributing Editor Julie PeggEditorial Assistant/Web Editor Rebecca Baugniet

Community ReportersComox Valley: Hans Peter Meyer, Tofino | Uclulet: Jen Dart, Vancouver: JuliePegg, Okanagan: Jennifer Schell, Victoria Rebecca Baugniet

Contributors Larry Arnold, Michelle Bouffard, Eva Cherneff, Jennifer Danter, Jen Dart,Pam Durkin, Gillie Easdon, Jeremy Ferguson, Nathan Fong, Holland Gidney, TraceyKusiewicz, Kathryn Kusyszyn, Anya Levykh, Ceara Lornie, Denise Marchessault, SherriMartin, Sandra McKenzie, Michaela Morris, Julie Pegg, Genevieve Laplante, TreveRing, Solomon Siegel, Elizabeth Smyth, Adem Tepedelen, Michael Tourigny, Jenny UechiSylvia Weinstock, Rebecca Wellman, Caroline West, Melody Wey.

FOR CONTRIBUTOR BIOS GO TOWWW.EATMAGAZINE.CA/CONTRIBUTORS

Publisher Pacific Island Gourmet | EAT ® is a registered trademark.Advertising: 250.384.9042, [email protected] departments: Box 5225, Victoria, BC, V8R 6N4,tel. [email protected] visit: www.eatmagazine.ca eatjobs.ca

Since 1998 | EAT Magazine is published six times each year. No part of this publication maybe reproduced without the written consent of the publisher. Although every effort is taken toensure accuracy, Pacific Island Gourmet Publishing cannot be held responsible for any errors oromissions that may occur. All opinions expressed in the articles are those of the writers and notnecessarily those of the publisher. Pacific Island Gourmet reserves the right to refuse anyadvertisement. All rights reserved.

Visit thriftyfoods.com/lifestyle

for a complete list of events and

convenient on-line registration

or call 250 483 1222 for more

information.

Inspirational cooking classes for home chefs of every level.

An evening with us will make “At Home” your new favourite restaurant.

discover your inner chef

niovecsid

renrve

fehcniruyo

fren

urovafwenuroyhtig wninevn eA

dfifhiiV

.tanuratseretirot HAe “kal mlis wh u

lifel/

”emo

.noiatmrofni

f2221384250llaor c

gee rnil-t onneinevonc

t of esie ltlepomor a cf

omc.sdoofytrifhttiisV

ermorof

onitartsig

dns atneve

leytsifel/m

Entrance to the private room at Zambri’spg. 16

Gen

Laplante

programs, twwho have d“news todayLast year

drink in ourrestaurantspeople who

To my dMarch/AprilWhy? Ratherwe left it toaward. Reallwe noted sowell deserveAnd so we

Readers’ Awfor taking aappreciate tHappy New—Gary Hy

RestauranA couple ofVancouver’s fMulti-coursesthough, to leatastefully (sosucculent seaa small, Harroperhaps he wembarrassedOn a recent

my “containeRichmond. Snoodles and lher a few reuminimize foodgreat way to sbranded reuswith the stainguests and viThis year’s

adopting theYour not wast• 9th annual• Dine Around

for people who love to cook

The ul t imate in non-st ick diamonds andnano technology make the di f ference.

DIAMONDS

ARE HARDER THAN TITANIUM

DIAMONDS

ARE BETTER HEAT CONDUCTORS

DIAMONDS

ARE MORE DURABLE

BBrrooaaddmmeeaadd VViillllaaggee,, VViiccttoorriiaa113300--777777 RRooyyaall OOaakk DDrriivvee

225500--772277--22111100

Bridal Registry Available

Open 7 nights5pm | midnight Tues - Sat5pm | 10pm Sun-Mon250.388.42221307 Gladstone Avenue, Victoriawww.stagewinebar.com

Stephen Quigley, International Bartender

Not just a Wine Bar

phen QuigleySte tendernational Bar, Interleyy, Inter nder

.combargewine.stawwww.staue, Venv1307 Gladstone AAv

250.388.42225pm | 10pm Sun-Mon

ues - Sat5pm | midnight TOpen 7 nights

ictoriaV

Sat

1517 Quadra StreetVictoria, BC w

Canada’s largest restaurant promotion* is back!

Hotel rates from $68!*

tourismvancouver.com/dovMEDIA SPONSORSPROUD SPONSORS

*By number of participating restaurants ™ Trademark of Tourism Vancouver, The Greater Vancouver Convention and Visitors’ Bureau. †† Exclusive of alcohol, taxes and gratuities. **All rates are for the current month, are per room, per night, based on double

occupancy, and subject to availability. Rates subject to change.

We hope you’re hungry!From January 24 to February 6, indulge in your love of food and BC VQA wine at over 210 of Vancouver’s hottest and hippest restaurants with three course meals at $18, $28 or $38 per person††

Plus!Eat your way through a full menu of food events, cooking classes and dinner tours! They’re only here during Dine Out!

While I’m certainly looking forward (in hungry anticipation) to allthe wonderful, new things to eat and drink in 2011, I’d also like totake time to reflect on the year that was. Sometimes in ourover-heated, super-saturated media world of entertainment news

programs, tweets and nanosecond web blogs, we fail to recognize the places and peoplewho have done the most to enhance our food lives. It’s the modern preoccupation of“news today, forgotten tomorrow”. Hit pause for a minute.Last year I began what I hoped would be an annual celebration of the best food and

drink in our area. The idea was to highlight the best and the brightest—not only the toprestaurants and chefs—but also the lesser-known shops, farms, local products, andpeople who made, and are continuing to make, a difference.

To my delight, thousands of you voted and the results were published in theMarch/April 2010 issue. It was time-consuming work to organize and tabulate the results.Why? Rather than having a handful of critics pre-select who you could or couldn’t vote for,we left it to you—the reader—to choose whomever you thought was deserving of anaward. Really, who knows best? Often, we nodded our heads in agreement, occasionallywe noted someone or someplace we’d been overlooking. Always, the recognition waswell deserved.And so we come to year two and the kick-off to the 2nd Annual Exceptional Eats!

Readers’ Awards—and the online voting poll is now open. Thanks in advance to all of youfor taking a moment to vote, because your voice counts and our businesses willappreciate the effort.Happy New Year and all the best to everyone in the year ahead.—Gary Hynes, Editor, EAT

Restaurant Dining Events: Don’t Let Your Leftovers Go To The Dogs.A couple of years ago, I was blessed—and cursed—with doing the rounds at some ofVancouver’s finer restaurants—for a week during the Vancouver Playhouse Wine Festival.Multi-courses for lunch and dinner can domajor damage to hips and the digestion. Such a shamethough, to leave the better part of a chef’s wonderful efforts on the plate. How could I salvage,tastefully (so to speak) meltingly good foie gras, grilled duck breast, tender lamb chops,succulent seafood, and artisan cheeses? Why not stack and pack a few reusable containers ina small, Harrods’ tote. It was classy and subtle. I handed the bag to the server and asked ifperhaps he wouldn’t mind divvying up my vittles among the containers. Initially, I was a littleembarrassed. Now I think nothing of it.On a recent media “dine-around” of Richmond’s Alexandra Road aka 'Chinese Food Street',”

my “container” idea impressed Michelle Dunn, Director of Communications at TourismRichmond. She made a point of emailing EAT, saying “As with many media dinners oodles ofnoodles and lots of other delicacies were leftover. Rather than waste the food, Julie fished outher a few reusable containers for take-away. We not only thought it was a brilliant way tominimize food waste and an excessive use of take-out packaging but we also figured it was agreat way to share the treats with someone at home. So we created our own Tourism Richmondbranded reusable food containers. Now at our hosted media dinners we hand them out, alongwith the stainless steel reusable, folding chopsticks that we created for all of Richmond’s hotelguests and visitors during the 2010 Olympic Winter Games.”This year’s Dine Out Vancouver and Dine Around Victoria events are a perfect opportunity for

adopting the take-away container idea. Don’t be shy to take the tasty tid-bits left on your plate.Your not wasting food and your post-holiday waistband will thank you.—Julie Pegg• 9th annual Dine Out Vancouver 2011 (January 24-February 6) www.tourismvancouver.com• Dine Around & Stay in Town Victoria 2011 (February 17 - March 6) www.tourismvictoria.com


iaw

ia

welcome to EAT

Monday to Friday7:30am to 6pm

Saturday8am to 5pm

WILD FIREorganic bakery & café

Proudly milling Vancouver island grown wheatUsing 99% locally grown and certified organic ingredients

250.381.34731517 Quadra Street

Victoria, BC www.wildfirebakery.ca

CHRISTOPHELAGUIGNÉPHOTOGRAPHY

250 588 1826WWW.CHRLPHOTOGRAPHY.COM

For the latest in news and events and to receiveour editor’s VIP picks subscribe (it’s free) to Tapas,EAT’s small bites newsletter atwww.eatmagazine.ca/newsletter.php

Exceptional Eats!

A•N•N•O•U•N•C•I •N•GTHE 2ND ANNUAL EAT MAGAZINEVictoria & Vancouver Island

READERS’ RESTAURANT, FOOD & DRINK AWARDS

ENSURE YOUR FAVOURITE PLACES GET THERECOGNITION THEY DESERVE BY VOTING

AB

AW

HO

PRVOTE ONLINE AT

www.EATmagazine.ca

We’re bac

Last yearto observ

How wasHave a th

You maythe samewill, alwa2011 EE fThe past recan be see

To vote—gofavourites ithe end, enor email wiTHE RULES• On• PoAwards win

Voting willcraft beersdesserts, k

By voting yoannounced

Acer Fine

Bistro Ca

Bubby Ro

Butchartfor 2

Carrot on

CascadiaTasting at

Chef Heidtown for tw

s!


G

RDS

ABOUT:

AWARD CATEGORIES:

HOW TO VOTE:

PRIZES & SPONSORS: VOTE ATwww.EATmagazine.ca

We’re back. Welcome to the second annual Exceptional Eats! Readers’ Restaurant, Food & Drink Awards.

Last year, EAT readers voted in droves, and it was clear that Victoria and Vancouver Island are equipped, enthused and at the readyto observe, fete and comment on the food, the drink, the land and the people who make us hungry and happy to be here.

How was this year? Who and what are great? Where do you go now—to shop, to eat, to carouse, to celebrate? Same as last year?Have a think, let us know. Let’s share and commemorate the year’s Exceptional eats, drinks, places and people.

You may notice that the questions are not the same as last year. But the year was not the same. There’s no fun in just bleating outthe same questions year after year if they no longer reflect what is really going on. At the same time, enduring greats should, andwill, always have a place to be celebrated. With both enthusiasm and respect for this local food and drink scene, we bring you the2011 EE fresh sheet. Let the voting begin.The past results and winners for the 1st Annual EE Reader Awardscan be seen online at www.eatmagazine.ca/page/awardwinners

To vote—go online to www.eatmagazine.ca and click on VOTE. You will be taken directly to the poll. Pick yourfavourites in the categories listed—if you don’t have a favourite in a particular category, just skip it—it’s that easy. Atthe end, enter your name and email address to be entered in the prize draw. (We take your security seriously. No nameor email will be given, sold or otherwise abused and once the voting is over - they will be deleted from our system.)THE RULES• Only one ballot per person• Polls close midnight, January 31, 2011Awards winners will be announced in the March/April issue of EAT

Voting will take place in the following categories: restaurants, wine stores, specialty food stores, beverages,craft beers, coffee, pubs, food writer, street food, best & worst trends, cooking teacher, appetizers, cocktails,desserts, kid-friendly, under $10, take-out, snacks, farm produce, Lifetime Achievement... and more.

CELEBRATING THE BEST INFOOD & DRINK

By voting you will become eligible to enter the draw to win one of the prizes gererously donated by our sponsors. Prize winners will beannounced in the March/April 2011 Issue of EAT. For more details, sponsor website links and addresses please visit EATmagazine.ca

Exceptional Eats!

Acer Fine Woodworking - 2 Bamboo Trays

Bistro Caché – Gift Certificate

Bubby Rose Bakery – Gift Certificate

Butchart Gardens - Admission & High Teafor 2

Carrot on the Run - Gift Basket

Cascadia Liquor – An Expert Guided WineTasting at Home for 12

Chef Heidi Fink - A culinary tour of China-town for two & one spot in a cooking class

Devour Food – Gift Certificate

Endless Pawsibilities - Gift Basket

Fernwood Inn – Gift Certificate

Lifestyle Markets – Gift Certificate

Muse Winery & Bistro - Gift Certificate

Ottavio Delicatessen - Ottavio T-shirt& Apron

Sea Cider - Long Flight & Platter for 2

Silk Road – Group Tea Tasting

Sips Artisan Bistro - Dinner for 2

Sooke Harbour House - 1 Night Stay,Breakfast & Dinner for 2

Spinnakers Gastro Brewpub - Chefs’ Tablefor 2 w/ Wine/Beer Pairings

Stage Wine Bar – Gift Certificate

True Grain Bread - Gift Certificate

Wickaninnish Inn - 1 Night Stay, ValetParking & 3-Course Dinner for 2

Victoria Spirits - Gift Basket

8 EATMAGAZINE JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2011

Culinary intelligence for the 2 months ahead

the concierge desk by Rebecca BaugnietFor more events visit www.eatmagazine.ca

250-598-8555

www.marinarestaurant.com

1327 Beach Drive at the Oak Bay Marina

Stunning Views Lunch • Dinner • Sushi • Sunday Brunch

A Local Story.

Local fisherman Tim Webster fills our dockside crab cage each Friday, where the crabs thrive in the ocean currents. Look out the window when you order and you’ll see our crew hurrying down the dock to get your dinner.

Simple, natural and incredibly fresh.

Just one of thestories that make upour plates each day.

hcaeB7231

www

2yaBkaOehttaevirD

estaurant.com.marinar

5558-895-052aniraM

m

JanuaryVICTORIAWINTER MARKETThe Victoria Downtown Public Market Soci-ety will lift your spirits by hosting a WinterMarket inMarket Square from 11am to 3pm,Saturday, January 15 and February 19. TheWinter Market will feature many of your fa-vorite local food producers including TerraNossa farm with local meats, LittleQualicum Cheeseworks, Iron MaidenSeafood, Saanich Organics, Bread by Matt,Vancouver Island Salt Company, Haliburton,Kildara and SunTrio farms plus hot mulledapple juice from LifeCycles, live music, andmuch, much more.

VANCOUVERWINTER MARKETTheVancouverWinter FarmersMarket takesplace every Saturday from 10am - 2pm untilApril 30, 2011, in the East Parking Lot of NatBailey Stadium.

TABLE TALKTable Talk is a Plenty Epicurean Pantry/FoodRoots co-hosted event that takes placethe first Wednesday of each month(Wednesday, January 5 and February 2),after hours, 7PM-9PM at Plenty's store lo-cated at 1034 Fort Street. These demon-stration/interactive sessions are anopportunity to sample wonderful food andengage in lively discussion based on theNorthEast Earth Institutes - Menu for theFuture guide. (www.epicureanpantry.ca)

ALL ABOUT EGGSCrack some eggs with Cook Culture houseChef Genevieve Laplante. This class is allabout the ever-versatile ingredient: themighty egg! You will learn how to master:Perfect Devilled eggs, omelet with Brie andbasil, and more. January 11, 6 pm.(www.cookculture.com)

TASTE BC 2011A Celebration of Local Food and Drink! is the17th Annual B.C. Children’s Hospital – OakTree Clinic Fundraising event. The LibertyMerchant Company's Taste BC Event will beheld on January 18th, 2011, at the Hyatt Re-gency Hotel, from 4:30-7:30 pm. For moreinformation or to buy tickets visit the Lib-erty Merchant website(www.libertywinemerchants.com).

1ST ANNUAL OLD WINE IN NEWBOTTLES FESTIVALThe Vancouver Island Symphony presentsfive days of tantalizing foods, winningwines, palette pleasing parties and a rous-

ing wine competition along with one of akind visual arts and music. January 19 – 22in Nanaimo.(www.vancouverislandsymphony.com)

6TH ANNUAL VICTORIA WHISKYFESTIVALThe 6th Annual VictoriaWhisky Festival willbe held at the Hotel Grand Pacific, January21-23. (www.victoriawhiskyfestival.com)

WINTER OKANAGANWINEFESTIVALSet in January at the alpine setting of SunPeaks Resort, the annual Winter OkanaganWine Festival is one of a kind. From skiingand snowboarding, to wine seminars andprogressive tastings, this is a unique expe-rience – kind of like their award winningicewines and a hot tub. January 19 -23.(www.thewinefestivals.com)

DINE OUT VANCOUVER 2011Presented by Tourism Vancouver, Dine OutVancouver is a citywide celebration of foodand British Columbia wine and is the largestrestaurant promotion of its kind in Canada.Virtually every type of restaurant in the citygets involved, giving you the chance totaste Vancouver's hot restaurant digs, newhit eateries and neighbourhood favouritesall for a reasonable prix-fixe price. January24 - February 6(www.tourismvancouver.com)

EUROPEANWINE CRUISEINFORMATION SESSIONJanuary 26th at 7pm Deborah Wickins ofWine Love Wine Lust and Oceania CruiseLines will host an information session.Learn about the ‘Vineyards and Vignettes’sailing from London to Barcelona in Sep-tember 2011. This tour is all inclusive andincludes return air from Vancouver, 14 daycruise, all onboard meals, pre-paid gratu-ities and is hosted by Victoria sommelierDeborah Wickins. For information and toRSVP contact Linda Nelson at Cruise Holi-days Pacific. (250-472-2789 [email protected])

FebruaryVICTORIA FILM FESTIVALAfter a brief recovery period from the holi-days, the city jumps right back into festivalseason. The Victoria Film Festival has a fewtreats in store for food film buffs, includingNick Versteeg's world premiere of his doc-umentary Food Security. Chef of the SouthPolar – a narrative about a chef who createselaborate meals for Japanese scientists

working in thing throughoruns from Fworth notingsoirées; theGallery (630cussion, andat Veneto (14by a film discfestival, the Swill be hostMovie on Febhost to guidefood/film ext(www.victoria

SMOKENLAUNCHOn February 4will be launcmenu. Somemore bbq samany more ioffering his mhelping to coitems. Get shand crafted

BIGLEAF MVisitors are iworkshopsmaple syrupdemonstratioplays. This ywith local mabe available.

CHINESE NTEA SAMPOn Sunday, Fpm, celebratfortune cookprecious Chi(www.silkroathe day, to eChina’s very bemony will b

COOKINGWJoin chocolatchef David Mruary 8th, fochocolate. Fdessert onlywant to incluas well. Expchocolate anthe mighty ca(www.frenchm

5TH ANNUATEA FESTIVThe Victoria TGardens for itlic tea exhibiti12th -13th inteas originatthe world and


hs ahead

with one of anuary 19 – 22

ony.com)

A WHISKY

y Festival willcific, Januarystival.com)

E

etting of Suner Okanagan. From skiingeminars andunique expe-ward winninguary 19 -23.

011ver, Dine Outation of foodis the largestnd in Canada.ant in the citye chance toant digs, newod favouritesprice. January

E

h Wickins ofeania Cruiseion session.nd Vignettes’lona in Sep-nclusive andouver, 14 daye-paid gratu-a sommelieration and tot Cruise Holi-2-2789 orom)

Lrom the holi-k into festivalval has a fewffs, includingre of his doc-of the Southf who createsse scientists

working in the Antarctic will also be show-ing throughout the nine day festival, whichruns from February 4-13. Three eventsworth noting are the two Sips ’n’ Cinemasoirées; the first, a wine tasting at LegacyGallery (630 Yates), followed by a film dis-cussion, and the second, a cocktail tastingat Veneto (1450 Douglas St.), also followedby a film discussion. In partnership with thefestival, the Superior Café (106 Superior St.)will be hosting Dinner and More Than AMovie on February 3, with a special guesthost to guide you through the once a yearfood/film extravaganza.(www.victoriafilmfestival.com)

SMOKEN BONES’ NEW MENULAUNCHOn February 4th, Smoken Bones Cookshackwill be launching their new hand craftedmenu. Some new additions will be burgers,more bbq sauces, lunch sandwiches, andmany more items. Jesse Lee Roper will beoffering his musical talents for this eveninghelping to compliment many free sampleitems. Get stuffed with BBQ, music andhand crafted ales.

BIGLEAF MAPLE SYRUP FESTIVALVisitors are invited to participate in mini-workshops facilitated by experiencedmaple syrup producers, including tappingdemonstrations, presentations, and dis-plays. This year's event features cookingwith local maple syrup and maple food willbe available.

CHINESE NEW YEARTEA SAMPLINGOn Sunday, February 6th, from 11 am to 5pm, celebrate the Year of the Rabbit withfortune cookies and a selection of rare andprecious Chinese teas. Stop by Silk Road(www.silkroadtea.com) anytime throughoutthe day, to enjoy a sampling of some ofChina’s very best teas. The Chinese Tea Cer-emony will be performed at 2pm and 3pm.

COOKINGWITH CHOCOLATEJoin chocolate historian and connoisseur,chef David Mincey, at French Mint on Feb-ruary 8th, for a delicious exploration ofchocolate. For most of us, chocolate is fordessert only but after this lesson you’llwant to include it in your savory repertoireas well. Explore the fascinating history ofchocolate and learn to unlock the magic ofthe mighty cacao bean. $75.(www.frenchmint.ca)

5TH ANNUAL VICTORIATEA FESTIVALThe Victoria Tea Festival returns to the CrystalGardens for its fifth year. This is the largest pub-lic tea exhibition in North America. February12th -13th indulge in a wide selection ofteas originating from different regions ofthe world and prepared in unique ways. Ex-

perience, learn, sample, touch, smell, andinquire by engaging with all the knowl-edgeable exhibitors at their booths. Pur-chase your favourite teas and tea-wares atthis one-stop shop for all things tea. Speak-ing of tea, Plenty (1034 Fort St.) has becomethe first Victoria retailer for Teafarm’s island-grown selections. (www.teafarm.ca). For moreinformation visit the festival website(www.victoriateafestival.com).

SEEDY SATURDAY VICTORIASaturday Feb 19th, from 10 am - 4 pm theJames BayMarket Society is sponsoring Vic-toria’s 17th annual Seedy Saturday. Thisyear’s event will be held on Level 2 of theVictoria Conference Centre, 720 Douglas St.Admission is 7$, children 12 and under arefree. Keep an eye on the James Bay Marketwebsite for more details(www.jamesbaymarket.com).

PARKSVILLE UNCORKEDParksville's finest beach resorts have cometogether once again to feature the very bestwines and gourmet foods from throughoutVancouver Island and British Columbia.Whether you are a novice or an experiencedwine lover, enjoy tastings, seminars, fea-tured wine dinners, bubbly brunches andwine inspired spa treatments. February 25-27, 2011. (www.parksvilleuncorked.com)

DINE AROUND AND STAY IN TOWNTourism Victoria and British ColumbiaRestaurant and Food Services Association’seighth annual Dine Around & Stay in Townwill take place from February 17 toMarch 6.Over 50 participating restaurants offerthree-course menus for $20, $30, or $40CDN per person and are all paired with BCVQA wine suggestions. To make a goodthing even better, some of Victoria's hotelsand accommodations will be featuring ratesof $79, $89, $99, and $129 CDN.(www.tourismvictoria.com)

If you have a food or wine event you wouldlike to see listed in the next issue of EAT,please email [email protected] and putConcierge Desk in the subject line.

VOTE ATwww.EATmagazine.ca

Exceptional Eats!


epicure at large —by Jeremy Ferguson local

DON’T HOLD THE ANCHOVIES

“Oh, and I want no anchovies. And I mean, no anchovies. You put anchovies on this thingand you’re in big trouble, okay?!” –Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles, 1990

When catsup left its native China towards the end of the 17th century, it was ke-tsiap, asauce based on fermented anchovies. By the time it reached the U.S. in the 19th century,Heinz-ified, it was a confection of tomatoes and sugar. What gastro-treachery was this?It was a conspiracy hatched by anchovy-haters, that’s what. They’re legion, these people.

They detest anchovies. They howl from the rooftops. They bad-mouth the wee fishes allover the Internet. I wouldn’t let one in the house.There are those of us who cherish the anchovy as a symbol of epicurean intensity, a

grandly unapologetic wallop of fish and salt. I know a couple who became engaged whenthey discovered a common passion for anchovies on pizza.In nature, anchovies are kinda beautiful. Individually, the anchovy is greenish with a blue

reflection; Picasso couldn’t do better. Collectively, a school of anchovies on the move re-sembles an undersea tornado whipping across an oceanic plain. See for yourself: Go toYouTube and check out that lyrical clip of anchovies swimming in formation at theMontereyBay Aquarium.Health and fitness fanatics, who see no more than fuel on their plates, have no argu-

ments with anchovies: the fish are especially rich in omega-3 fatty acids and vitamin D andexcellent for brain development in children (which explains that very absence of develop-ment in thems that hate anchovies).Huge schools of anchovies forage the oceans and seas of most of the planet. The an-

chovy is a staple in Southeast Asia, the base for stocks, soups and sauces, including theVietnamese nuac mam and Thai nam pla.A few years ago, my wife and I passed through the Vietnamese fishing town of Phan

Thiet. The place reeked with fish sauce, courtesy of the local nuac mam factory, in whichanchovies and salt are layered in barrels and fermented for six months. Westerners wereclearing out as fast as they could, holding their noses. I could have lingered for a week.The coastal Chinese made a fish sauce and added soy to it. Inlanders, without access to

fish, were left with the soy. And so soy sauce was born, so they say.Malaysians dry the fish whole and use them as a principal garnish for nasi lemak, the

wonderful Malay breakfast of coconut rice drizzled with a rip-snorting sambal, the Malaychili sauce, and served with roast peanuts, sliced cucumber and egg. Burma turns out ananchovy relish using fresh anchovies, tamarind, garlic, curry leaves and chili powder. Ko-reans stir-fry dried anchovies with garlic, sugar, sesame seed and sesame oil as a side dish.Our Canadian fling with the anchovy connects with Mediterranean tradition. It goes back

at least as far as the ancient Romans. Intrepid foodies, they consumed anchovies raw asan aphrodisiac: On route to an orgy, Gaius? Don’t leave home without ’em.I can’t think of Italy without the thought of puttanescamakingme drool. This is the great-

est of all pasta sauces in my view, a racy concoction of tomatoes, black olives, garlic, ca-pers, chilies and anchovies that the whores of Naples traditionally simmered on their stovesto sate their customers’ other appetite.The French are no slouches, either. In Provence, the purest symbol of anchovy love to

this day is anchoyade, a kick-ass tapenade of anchovies and garlic. The French spread it onwarm bread and sink their teeth into it with the beatific smiles of Hindu deities.Even the Brits found time for anchovies. In 1661, Samuel Pepys defined a good breakfast

as “good wine, and anchovies, and pickled oysters.” Anchovies have always been part ofWorcestershire sauce, yet another fish sauce spinoff. There is a small town in Jamaicanamed Anchovy, but it has no anchovies and is not worth visiting.On this continent, anchovies are considered essential for Caesar salad. Caesar Cardini

created the dish in 1924, but the anchovy didn’t enter the mix until a decade later. They’rea catalyst. Once I made the mistake of whipping up a Caesar dressing without them. Theflavours collapsed.Anchovy pleasures in Victoria happen in the home. We buy the fish in tins and jars,

packed in olive oil and ready to eat. I use a whole tin in a Caesar for four. My wife makespizzas with tortilla shells as a crust; on go the anchovies and mozzarella.One of my favourite anchovy dishes couldn’t be simpler.Wrap an anchovy in puff or phyllo

pastry and bake it until it resembles a toasted pastry cigarette. It’s crisp and soft and salty.I once saw it ignite a feeding frenzy at an Australian food festival, while elaborate disheswent ignored. But then again, there wasn’t a Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtle in the room.

This grandly unapologetic wallop of fish and salt is a symbol ofepicurean intensity.

DANThe foundIt takes sevThe 63-year-oof slowing doKnown inte

author, activiGardens of Dexpert on orgmedicine, heseeds.Now, 25 ye

effort on hisonline ordersvisitors simpWithout seekhim fully engBecause he

begins to tavarious locatplants, thereing? His answanswer is jusOne of the

reportedly caon the islandmake it looksThe garden

recent is Savof preservinglight of presssimple and bpublications,spotted playThis father

numerous Weducation anCanada, forming seed andkeeping on hSomewher

ing (gardeninmanages to fvolume of wotive propertiecountless pe

ON TBLOGS: AInto a Cockta

TRAVEL:The Taste ofChelsea Barr

REGIONADRINK:WEVENTS:at Araxi, To R

FEATUREBOOKS: IHynes; Cook


local food hero —by Kathryn Kusyszyn

VIES

on this thing

as ke-tsiap, a19th century,y was this?hese people.wee fishes all

n intensity, angaged when

sh with a bluethe move re-urself: Go totheMonterey

ave no argu-vitamin D ande of develop-

anet. The an-including the

own of Phantory, in whichterners werefor a week.out access to

si lemak, theal, the Malayturns out ani powder. Ko-s a side dish.. It goes backhovies raw as

s is the great-es, garlic, ca-n their stoves

chovy love toh spread it ones.ood breakfastbeen part of

wn in Jamaica

aesar Cardinilater. They’reut them. The

ins and jars,y wife makes

puff or phyllooft and salty.borate dishesthe room.

l ofDAN JASONThe founder of Salt Spring Island Seeds is an island Renaissance man..

Complimentary Underground Parking • www.sidneypier.com

Make your reservation now!Call 250.655.9700

Brunch served from 11am - 2pmevery Saturday & Sunday

Come in to Haro’s at The Sidney Pier Hotel & Spa every Saturday and Sunday

beginning at 11 for Chef Sheena’s favorite new brunch creations. The menu

includes everything from traditional Eggs Benny to "Haro's Rancheros",

plus all of our regular all day menu items. A great day begins at Haro’s.

fresh flavours, casual comfort, genuine service

brunch isn’t dead, it just slept in

It takes several days to catch up with Dan Jason during Seedy Saturday season.The 63-year-old founder of Salt Spring Seeds is, in his words, “going full bore with no signsof slowing down.” He’s a man of few words but a great many actions.Known internationally for his organic heirloom seeds, Dan Jason is a passionate grower,

author, activist, teacher, mentor, artist andmusician. The subject of two documentary films,Gardens of Destiny and Tableland, he’s also frequently interviewed as a consummateexpert on organic gardening. Motivated by a desire to encourage self-reliance in food andmedicine, he focuses his energies on growing, sharing and teaching others how to saveseeds.Now, 25 years since he began growing plants for seed, his reputation has grown without

effort on his part. Salt Spring Seeds sends out 7,000 catalogues annually and receivesonline orders through an award-winning website designed by Jason’s son, Leif. Countlessvisitors simply drop by to ask a few questions, pick up seeds or, just as likely, a trowel.Without seeking any accolades, he simply sets his focus on growing plants, and that keepshim fully engaged.Because he is an annual grower, there is fresh excitement each year as the new garden

begins to take shape. He is not a landowner; over the years he’s grown his seeds invarious locations on the island, at different altitudes and with different soils. Wherever heplants, there is always an abundance of colour and flowers.What does hemost enjoy grow-ing? His answer is simple: “Everything!” What does he find most challenging to grow? Hisanswer is just as simple: “Nothing!”One of the more unusual plants he grows is 1,000-year-old tobacco. Seeds for this plant

reportedly came from a native burial mound in Ontario. Growing low to the ground, it thriveson the island and is frequently remarked upon by visitors because its enormous leavesmake it looks prehistoric. According to Jason, it tastes “powerful.”The garden provides himwith plenty of inspiration. The author of several books, his most

recent is Saving Seeds As Though Our Lives Depended On It, which explores the urgencyof preserving organic seeds from GMO contamination and the role individuals can play inlight of pressures from industrial agribusiness. His cookbooks contain recipes that aresimple and based on whole foods. West Coast Whimsy and Womance, one of his earliestpublications, is filled with songs celebrating his deep love for island life (he can often bespotted playing a flute while on his morning walk through the garden).This father of five and grandfather of four has taught children at a free school, mentored

numerous WWOOFers (Willing Workers on Organic Farms), and been involved in othereducation and community building efforts, include the Seed and Plant Sanctuary forCanada, formed with colleagues in 2002 (www.seedsanctuary.com). This non-profit evolv-ing seed and gene bank provides a repository of viable seeds and plants as well as record-keeping on how they grow around the country each year.Somewhere amid the planting, growing and tending of the garden, the writing and teach-

ing (gardening and ecstatic dance), the speaking engagements and food activism, hemanages to field more than a hundred emails, calls and letters each day. Yet despite thevolume of work, Dan Jason appears calm and grounded, nurtured himself with the restora-tive properties of nature. A garden has tremendous healing power, and through his efforts,countless people are finding it easier to create one.

ON THE WEB www.EATmagazine.caBLOGS: A report on a new ice cream delivery service by Katie Fritz; Turn Your VeggiesInto a Cocktail byMaryanne Carmack

TRAVEL: Female Chefs to gather for the 12th annual Montreal High Lights Festival;The Taste of Home (Away from Home)by NoahWheelock; The Nanaimo Bar Trail byChelsea Barr

REGIONAL NEWS: A weekly round-up of Vancouver events by Anya Levykh

DRINK:Wine reviews posted daily by Treve Ring

EVENTS: Bistro28-Fairview Cellars Winemaker’s Dinner, Breaking out the BIG GUNSat Araxi, To Russia With Love, Okanagan Style, BC Hospitality Fundraiser.

FEATURES: Web editor Rebecca Baugniet visits Saanich while it snows.

BOOKS: In Search of Food Heroes, An Interview with Georgia Pellegrini by GaryHynes; Cooking with Cory: Inspirational Recipes for the Fearless Cook.


get fr

Whparflowuntcakcremamadiprotit t

Caronistopis

Tominolivsesfineflav

Cascarcas1 cuflo1 tsele

Youdisor a5 proubrocovto 3stirshoto tbak

AlmTanandMo

R

RebeccaWellm

am

Cook Culture, Vancouver Island’s largest cookware shop, opened in November in a 2,400-square-foot space in the elegant new Atrium building. The store carries an artfully arrangedarray of high quality, affordably priced cookware, a superb selection of kitchen gadgetryand tools as well as wineglasses, cookbooks, table linens, cutlery and moreHowever, the heart of Cook Culture is its cooking school according to Jed Grieve, who

co-owns the business with his wife, Regan, and a silent partner. The kitchen is set in a spa-cious section of the shop that looks out onto the spectacular undulating wooden walls ofthe Atrium’s inner courtyard. “The school was the catalyst for the entire enterprise,” saysGrieve. “We want to educate people about where their food comes from, spread the wordand support the local food movement and local farmers.” Locally grown food will be usedin the classes and some will feature Island farmers introducing their products before chefinstructors start the class. “Fun is at the top of the list,” says the energetic Grieve. “Wehave many ideas, but we’re also listening to what people tell us they want on Twitter andour website.”Three types of classes are on offer for twelve to fourteen people: three-hour hands-on

classes followed by amulti-coursemeal in the Atrium, hour-long demonstrations with somehands-on participation, and demonstration classes. Instructors will include local inde-pendent chefs and caterers, local restaurant chefs and well-known chefs who are on NorthAmerican book tours.Grieve, the son of Muffet Billyard-Leake of Muffet and Louisa, grew up in the retail

kitchenware business and began cooking from scratch when he was a boy. “My mom wasinto whole food and sustainable food before it became trendy, and I grew up in a Europeanfood culture. The food revolution is now returning to its European roots,” Grieve explains.“Regan and I wanted to become more involved with the local food movement. We’re notchefs or farmers, but what we can contribute is a space where people can gain knowledgeof tools and techniques—Sylvia Weinstock

Cook Culture is open Monday to Friday 10 a.m. to 5:30 p.m., Saturday 10:30 a.m. to 5:30p.m., and Sunday noon to 5 p.m. 1317 Blanshard St. in the Atrium Building, 250-590-8161,www.cookculture.com.

top shelf

pictured: Jed and Regan Grieve at Cook Culture

CLASS CONSCIOUS

CON

A brand-new cooking school and cookware store in Victoria is planningto stir things up.

The ravish

1

2

6

3

4

5

Like the toptender, versathe carrot is ait (although,


get fresh COOKING BY THE SEASON —by Sylvia Weinstock

What other vegetable can canoodle with sweet, spicy or savoury flavours in everypart of a meal, from appetizers to desserts, as easily as the carrot? Use it in sun-flower seed veggie pâté, roll it into maki sushi, grate it into cole slaw, roast ituntil it is as sweet as candy, layer it in a root vegetable torte, or bake it into a richcake topped with a snowy slab of icing. Wok it, juice it, glaze it, make it into icecream, soup it, muffin or pudding it. Simmer it with rhubarb and glacé ginger tomake rhubarb carrot conserve or with oranges tomakemarmalade. Chop it withmangos, chilies and apricots to make salsa. Slice it into sticks for munching anddipping, or cut it into coins, chunks or julienned matchsticks. Make delicate car-rot flowers by ripping five lengthwise ridges on a peeled carrot with a zester, sliceit thinly crosswise and float the flowers on a sea of seafood coconut soup.

Carrots are essential to mirepoix, the classic French mixture of diced carrots,onions and celery sautéed in butter, which is used to flavour sauces, stews,stocks and soups. I love the orange and green eye candy of carrots andpistachios. Purple carrots would also look gorgeous with the green nuts.

To make a scrumptious Moroccan salad, cut 6 carrots into thin coins, boil 2minutes and drain.Whisk 2 Tbsp orange juice, 2 tsp sherry vinegar and 1/4 cupolive oil in a bowl. Season with salt and pepper. Add 2 Tbsp each of toastedsesame seeds, finely chopped fresh mint and chopped pistachios. Add 3 Tbspfinely chopped cilantro. Mix in carrots and refrigerate two hours to mingle theflavours.

Cashew carrot loaf is a delectable vegan side dish. Steam 6 cups choppedcarrots until tender and mash them in a food processor. Finely grind 2 cups ofcashewswith 3 Tbsp olive oil in a food processor. Mix carrots and cashews with1 cup finely chopped leeks, 1 cup finely chopped celery, 1/2 cup whole-wheatflour, 1 tsp sea salt, 1/2 tsp black pepper, 2 tsp crushed sage, 1/2 tsp thyme and1 tsp basil. Place the mixture in an oiled loaf pan. Top with carrot flowers for anelegant presentation. Bake 35 to 45 minutes at 350°F.

You can’t make tzimmes without carrots. This traditional Jewish slow-cookeddish can be vegetarian—honey-sweetened carrots, sweet potatoes and apples—or a robust meat dish. For the beef version, cut 5 large carrots into thick rounds,5 peeled potatoes into quarters and 3 peeled sweet potatoes into 1-inch thickrounds. Sear 3 lbs of beef brisket in a large cooking pot, turning frequently tobrown evenly. Add vegetables, salt to taste, 1/2 cup sugar and enoughwater tocover the bottom of the pot. Bring to a boil, and then simmer on low heat for upto 3 hours, until the meat is tender. Add water as needed during cooking. Don’tstir it; shake the pot if the mixture sticks. Brown 2 Tbsp flour in 2 Tbsp meltedshortening and stir in some tzimmes liquid to make a thickener. Add thickenerto tzimmes and shake the pot to distribute it. Turn tzimmes gently into a largebaking pan. Bake in 350°F oven for 30 minutes until it is brown on top.

Almost every country has its unique carrot dishes. Try spicy carrot sambaro fromTanzania, gajjar halva (made with carrots, cardamom, cashews, raisins andmilk)and aloo gajar from India, chizu salada and warm carrot lamb salad fromMorocco, or colourful Italian pasta primavera. The possibilities are endless.

Rekindle your romance with this ravishing root all winter long.

What’s Old is New Again

Cafe Brio

944 Fort St., Victoria

All menu items priced forhalf or full portions

Have some fun while you nibble or dine!www.café-brio.com 250.383.0009

er in a 2,400-ully arrangedhen gadgetry

Grieve, whos set in a spa-oden walls ofrprise,” saysead the wordd will be useds before chefGrieve. “Wen Twitter and

our hands-onns with somee local inde-are on North

in the retailMy mom wasn a Europeaneve explains.nt. We’re notn knowledge

a.m. to 5:3050-590-8161,

re

S

CONSIDER THE CARROT

s planning

The ravishing root veggie is nothing if not versatile.

1

2

6

3

4

5

Like the top prize in the boyfriend sweepstakes, the carrot is firm, sweet, humble,tender, versatile and always available. Young ones are sweetest, but like the ideal beau,the carrot is a keeper, retaining its shape, texture and flavour until you are inspired to useit (although, it will grow whiskers if it is neglected too long).

Anteadote100% ORGANIC | FA IRTRADE | LOC ALLY OWNED & OPERATED

“Come oh come, ye tea-thirsty restless

ones—the kettle boils, bubbles and

sings musically.”

-Rabindranath Tagore

Tea is the perfect antidote to

chilly weather and winter colds

and flu. Visit www.silkroadtea.com

to find out more.

www.silkroadtea.com 1624 Government St. Victoria Chinatown

In the past finew “super-fand vegan pcreated a bufamiliar old ftional spotlig

Oatmealthe blandmuscientific revbetween eataddition, othhelp to reducand preparedbland normumuse of fooding the humbger porridge

Cheese Olabelled a hea potent canVitamin K thaman researcyears, they foby 28 percencheese eaterounce) of cha daily basistious artisanple each and

Prunes Evcontain morcreased. It’sshowed thatbone loss asfruit containslung and coloare actually shave just beSavvy chefs apuree to repberries!

Vinegar Vsaid to havepower. Nowresearch hasblood pressuboth Japan afat. These stushed those uvinegar to sations as wellB.C.’s most infruit vinegarterprises atwIsland, Spinn


Old favou

good

TRIfood matters —by Julie Pegg

SOUP’S ONA bowl of hot soup on a cold night has become a cultural culinary icon.The word soup derives from “sop,” originally a noun, meaning a piece of bread soakedin liquid. Ever since man came up with a method of boiling liquid in a heat-proof, leak-proof vessel, soup’s charms have soothedmany a savage breast.What better way, all thoseyears ago, to purify water, stretch the primordial “budget” and comfort cold souls than toboil H2Owith a whack of food scraps. Simple gruels, which consisted customarily of stockpoured over bread, evolved into rich, sustaining potages according to local ingredientsand tastes. Many have become cultural culinary icons.During a chilly European sojourn some years back, three iconic European soups,

ribollita, borscht and soupe de poisson, maintained me through days of damp and cold.Now I make them often, riff on them occasionally, seldom follow an exact recipe, but dorefer to a broth-stained OldWorld Kitchen for the basics (Elisabeth Luard, Bantam Books,1989).I first came upon ribollita (the word means reboiled) in Siena, after a muddy tromp

through Tuscan vineyards. I creaked open the heavy door of a tucked-away osteria. Theheady aroma alone, which wafted up the stone steps from the kitchen below, lifted myweary spirits. Ribollita is a minestra (soup) boiled and reheated until a blessed trinity ofcavalo nero (black kale), fagioli (white beans) and panne (stale bread) collapse in a richtomato stock. It reaches its apex when slow-simmered in a clay cauldron (or cast-iron Dutchoven), then reheated the next day. That bowl of comfort needs little else but a fewParmesan shavings, a drizzle of extra-virgin olive oil and a few glugs of Chianti. Trendierversions sometimes call for pancetta, spicy sausage or Savoy cabbage. I say uh-uh!Although I do like to boost the stock with a chunk of parmesan rind (which is removedbefore serving).The best borscht I’ve ever eaten was in Shepherd’s Bush, London, after navigating my

way through a Dickensian-like fog. More a grandmotherly living room than a dining room,the Polish restaurant (I think it was called The Patio) served up a shockingly red-purplebroth—satiny smooth, slightly tart and studded with feathery dumplings—sowarm and sosatisfying. I make a pretty tasty approximation by roasting beets, grating them on a boxgrater, then pureeing them with homemade chicken or vegetable stock (heavy on thecarrot) and a splash of cider vinegar or lemon juice. Success with dumplings-lite comesup short, but a dense dark rye slathered with unsalted butter subs in just fine. A side ofbacony sauerkraut and a dollop of sour cream are nice additions, and the whole lot downedwith a crisp lager.Biarritz, on France’s southwest coast, was a luxury town whose meals I could ill afford,

with the exception of a saffron-scented soupe de poisson. At a posh restaurant (the nameescapes me), overlooking the brilliant blue Mediterranean, a white-gloved waiter setbefore me a tureen of satiny seafood bisque accompanied by tiny ramekins of garlickyrouille, crunchy croutons and shaved Gruyere for garnish. A simple butter lettuce saladtossed in a light vinaigrette and pichet of straw-gold dry Jurançon wine capped thisexquisitely simple repast. Recreating this class act at home required a bit of trial and error.Putting your faith in a trusted fishmonger who is willing to set aside fresh fish trimmingsfor you (not from oily fish and never, never salmon) and seeking out Spanish saffron is agood start. The trick then is attaining a nice nuance of flavour and texture. A prawn or twoand/or a few steamed mussels garnish this velvety bisque beautifully. White gloves notnecessary.Wallet-wise, and soul-satisfying, these soups-as-a meal are perfect for slurping solo by

the fire and lovely enough to prepare and share with guests on a blustery Saturday evening.Round out the meal with country bread or perhaps a vegetable tart, (Alsace onion orSpanish tortilla spring to mind), a salad (think shaved fennel or Brussels sprouts withpancetta), an artisan cheese board, fig preserves and, of course, a decent bottle of wineor craft beer. And, yes, you may “sop” up your soup with a piece of bread.

Recommended recipes:

Jamie Oliver’s recipe “My Favourite Ribollita”on www.JamieOliver.com.

For Diana Henry’s Soupe de Poisson with Rouille, go towww.telegraph.co.uk, September18, 2009 edition.

Julie’s Vegetarian Borscht recipe can be found at www.eatmagazine.ca/recipe.

In the past five years, the health-food industry has offered up a dizzying array of exoticnew “super-foods” all touted as health-promotingmiracles. From acai berries to chia seedsand vegan protein powders, these new foods have garnered a lot of media attention andcreated a buzz among health-conscious consumers. But thanks to recent research, somefamiliar old favourites are making a comeback and taking their rightful place in the nutri-tional spotlight. Here’s four currently taking centre stage.

Oatmeal If you’ve sworn off oatmeal because you have badmemories of choking downthe blandmush your mom served at breakfast, you need to rethink your decision. A recentscientific review conducted by a team from the University of Kentucky found that the linkbetween eating oatmeal and cholesterol reduction is even stronger than once thought. Inaddition, other new studies have revealed that oats contain unique compounds that canhelp to reduce early hardening of the arteries. Clearly, oats are one heart-friendly grain—and prepared properly, with steel cut or Scottish oats and not the flakes—they are neitherbland normushy. Surprisingly they are also hip! Steel-cut oats have become the au courantmuse of food bloggers worldwide, and the Internet is ripe with innovative recipes featur-ing the humble grain. Two of my favourites are oatmeal risotto and mango, pine- nut, gin-ger porridge.

Cheese Once vilified for its artery-clogging saturated-fat content, cheese is now beinglabelled a health food. Why the switch? A new German study suggests cheese is actuallya potent cancer fighter. Surprisingly, cheese is a rich source of menaquinones, a type ofVitamin K that switches on genes in the body that knock out cancer cells. And when Ger-man researchers tracked the health and diets of more than 24,000 people for up to 10years, they found that those who ate the most cheese reduced their risk for fatal cancersby 28 percent! But before you pick up that block of Gouda, consider this—the biggestcheese eaters in the study didn’t overindulge—they ate a sensible 29 grams (about oneounce) of cheese per day. Regardless, any suggestion that one can indulge in cheese ona daily basis, with complete impunity, is cause for celebration. And with so many scrump-tious artisan cheeses being produced here in B.C., we now have a perfect excuse to sam-ple each and every one of them.

Prunes Ever since researchers from Tufts University in Boston discovered that prunescontain more antioxidants than cultivated blueberries, their nutritional status has in-creased. It’s about to climb even higher. A recent study from the University of Floridashowed that eating 10-12 prunes per day could help postmenopausal women prevent thebone loss associated with menopause. And there is more good news. The wrinkly littlefruit contains some unique antioxidants that have been shown to help prevent prostrate,lung and colorectal cancer. And you thought they just helped Grandma stay regular! Prunesare actually sweet, succulent treats that possess amazing versatility in the kitchen. If youhave just been stewing them for breakfast, you need to expand your prune repertoire.Savvy chefs are using them in tagines, stews, salads and desserts. You can even use prunepuree to replace some of the fat in your baking. You certainly can’t say that about acaiberries!

Vinegar Vinegar has been used for medicinal purposes for centuries. Hippocrates issaid to have used it as an antibiotic. Samurai warriors used it as a tonic for strength andpower. Now modern medical evidence is confirming its health benefits. In recent years,research has shown that the main chemical in vinegar, called acetic acid, can help controlblood pressure and blood sugar. But the news gets even better—studies conducted inboth Japan and America have shown that vinegar appears to turn on genes that help fightfat. These studies indicate that as little as two tablespoons of vinegar per day can help youshed those unwanted pounds and keep them off. If you’ve limited your culinary use ofvinegar to salad dressings and pickles, you’ve missed out on some tantalizing concoc-tions as well as an opportunity to get those two slimming tablespoons per day. Some ofB.C.’s most innovative and renowned chefs are using locally produced, complex, artisanalfruit vinegars in entrees, sauces and desserts. Visit British Columbia’s Shady Glenn En-terprises atwww.loveberries.com for delectable vinegars and recipe ideas. (On VancouverIsland, Spinnakers and Merridale Estate Cidery also make quality vinegars.)

Old favourites are taking their rightful place in the food spotlight.

good for you —by Pam Durkin


TRIED AND TRUEinary icon.bread soakedt-proof, leak-way, all thosesouls than to

marily of stockal ingredients

pean soups,mp and cold.ecipe, but doantam Books,

muddy trompy osteria. Theow, lifted myssed trinity ofapse in a richast-iron Dutchse but a fewanti. TrendierI say uh-uh!h is removed

avigating mydining room,ly red-purplewarm and sohem on a boxheavy on thegs-lite comesine. A side ofle lot downed

uld ill afford,ant (the nameed waiter setns of garlickylettuce saladcapped thisrial and error.sh trimmingsh saffron is aprawn or twote gloves not

rping solo byrday evening.ace onion orsprouts withbottle of wine

k, September

pe.


EAT

Gen

Laplante

If Zambri’s were a movie actor, it would be Jeff Bridges, or, in a previous decade, Gene Hackman: an entity that toils in theshadows and garners a continuum of critical praise without forging a huge presence in the public eye, and then, at last,thunders into the mainstream.This is the trajectory of Zambri’s, which spent more than a decade tucked away in an instantly forgettable strip mall, held true

to its Italian roots, wowed reviewers and vaulted into the limelight this October as the star tenant in the new Atrium Buildingat Yates and Blanshard.The move was more than a transfer. Born-again Zambri’s brings Vancouver-style sophistication to a downtown that needed

to grow up in a specifically urban way. Zambri’s stays open until midnight seven days a week.Midnight? Now that’s grown-up.In keeping with contemporary style, it’s big and airy—85 seats plus two patios in summer. Its walls are mostly glass. It opens

on Yates Street and the atrium, no boite this. Servers wear black, as they do in swank downtown restaurants. They’re sleek andprofessional, and they know about the food that beelines out of the kitchen.With its high street profile and glowing interior, Zambri’s was packed from day one. After 6:30 p.m., forget about landing a

table in the restaurant. A patio setting—a faux streetside—in the cavernous atrium picks up the overflow. But diners who showup around 9 p.m. should have no problem finding tables. Yep, Toto, we’re still in Victoria.Rejoice that the ristorante fills a space between two movie theatres, the Odeon Cineplex and the Empire Capital 6, each no

more than a gnocchi toss away. It’s high time moviegoers had a place to dine in style before or after a movie in this town.Dissecting a movie over food and drink, it says here, is one of the great pleasures of modern civilization.The oeuvre of brother-and-sister Peter and Josephine Zambri, the restaurant has always based its reputation on real-thing

Italian with oversized flavours. Vancouver Magazine awarded it gold as best Victoria restaurant in 2010. EAT, Saveur and theVancouver Sun have heaped on accolades.How does this play at the Atrium? A recent dinner confirmed traditional strengths and revealed a kitchen running hard to

restaurantreporter

Zambri’s | 820 Yates St. at Blanshard |11 a.m. to 3 p.m., 5 p.m. to midnight,no reservations | 250-360-1171|www.zambris.ca

VICTORIA’S AWARD-WINNING ITALIANZambri’s move to suave digs, the addition of pizza and extended hours ismolto bene

accommodate a larger and hungrier public thananticipated.Apps celebrate one of B.C.’s great, underrated

resources. Boldly, octopus is on the menu every day, onthis occasion ($10), the delicious cephalopodmarinated,chopped and tossed with potato and celery. Bravo: It’sthe kind of leadership we want from a seriousrestaurant.Palotte Abbruzzese ($8) brings deep-fried bread

dumplings the size of ping-pong balls. Sounds like aone-note, but they’re light and savoury and seasonedwith herbs, onion and garlic and plated in a pool oftomato sauce. The carbovore swoons.Mains are bang on target with two house-made

pastas: pappardelle ($19) marries flawless al dentenoodles with ragout of shredded duck and black olives.Deeee-lish. Spaghetti aglio olio peperoncino ($18)glazes the noodle with olive oil, browned garlic, chilies,parsley and breadcrumbs. Another shoo-in.At lunch, the crowd comes and goesmore casually and

the kitchen struts its stuff effortlessly. An ordinarygnocchi ($14) gainsmomentumwith sausage ragout andshredded kale, a most agreeable ensemble. But thesurprise is pizza. This pizza’s about the size of a hover-craft. Its crust is crisp and fluffy. Such a crust wouldplease were it stark naked. But this is arrabbiata from aslate of eight pizze ($14) and it comes racily embroideredwith smoked cheese, hot pickled peppers and chiliflakes, plus a side of anchovies ($3). “Arrabbiata”meansangry because of its hot peppers, but here, on a brood-ing winter afternoon, it leaves you shuddering withsudden, sunny Mediterranean delight.–Jeremy Ferguson

Pig BBQdays a w

People don’tbrag or, morepoutine. By mAnd you soPig Downt

selection. Picharacter. Buglass, front-robrew and a sseeing as I hfried chickenPig’s fare is

a pound of pbrisket and spaper, napkina bit bland. SBut, I must

kitchen mayreally about“wake-up-in-and hot saucfor it lurks inOff to conf—By Gillie

Yo

West Coast W

This place istwist—healtsalmon. Themade with orture that is swaffles. Youwaffle. My fawaffle that wness of a waf

RebeccaWellm

am

Palotte Abbruzzese at Zambri’s

—by Elizabeth SmythEATING WELL FOR LESS


The Sticky Wicket & The Clubhouse at The Strathcona Hotel919 Douglas Street Victoria BC 250.383.7137

www.strathconahotel.com www.dontmissout.ca

WARM UP THIS WINTERWITH OUR HEARTY

COMFORT FOOD

Great food Good friends Great sportsFabulous features every night of the week!

Gen

Laplante

anshard |dnight,360-1171|

public than

underratedevery day, onodmarinated,ry. Bravo: It’sm a serious

-fried breadounds like and seasonedin a pool of

house-madeess al denteblack olives.oncino ($18)garlic, chilies,n.casually andAn ordinaryge ragout andble. But thee of a hover-crust wouldbbiata from aembroidereders and chilibiata”means, on a brood-ddering with

Pig BBQ Joint | 1325 Blanshard St., Victoria |11 a.m.-10 p.m., 7days a week | 250-590-5193 | www.pigbbqjoint.com

People don’t talk about eating at Pig Downtown’s new flash location at The Atrium; theybrag or, more often, they confess. “I’ve been eating there three times a week. Pulled porkpoutine. By myself. With a side of the Crispy Fried Mac and Cheese … I can’t help it.”And you sort of can’t. The whole thing is too compelling.Pig Downtown’s previous petite inner city location offered a luscious but limited

selection. Pig Colwood owned the trophy for fleshed-out menu; flesh being the maincharacter. But no longer. Introducing Pig Downtown at The Atrium. Curved floor to ceilingglass, front-row premier people-watching, a liquor license that facilitates an array of Philips’brew and a sweet selection of bourbon. Maker’s Mark, anyone? Well, I shouldn’t. Butseeing as I have already committed to a beef brisket sandwich, the slaw and a piece offried chicken, I guess one couldn’t hurt …Pig’s fare is sloppy and tasty and doesn't break the piggy bank and delicious. Go for half

a pound of pulled pork with cornbread and slaw or beans. Or maybe the pound of beefbrisket and skip the veg. It feels good, doesn’t it? Food is served in baskets or on waxpaper, napkins are rolls of paper towel. That’s right. I tried the popcorn shrimp on special,a bit bland. Skip the crustacean. What was I thinking?But, I must say, though it is called Pig, and it may be primarily about the pig, and their

kitchen may well be large enough to keep a couple of Wilburs back there for a spell, it isreally about the chicken. For me, anyhow. Chef/owner Jeff Heatherington’s chicken is“wake-up-in-the-middle-of-the-night-missing-that-chicken” chicken. Brined in buttermilkand hot sauce, fried and drizzled with rosemary, maple syrup and crème fraîche, the needfor it lurks in the dark recesses of my soul. And I am not alone, by any stretch.Off to confess. See you there … at Pig Downtown, I mean.—By Gillie Easdon

You can’t miss the sign—or the pulled pork poutine at Pig

West Coast Waffles | 1235 Broad St. near View | 250-857-3606

This place is true to its name: it offers several variations on waffles with a West Coasttwist—health-conscious ingredients like spelt and buckwheat and toppings like smokedsalmon. The premise is simple. Choose from three different types of waffle: classic (butmade with organic flour); buckwheat, which is gluten-free; and a spelt and rolled oats mix-ture that is sugar-free. And don’t worry that all this good health stuff takes the fun out ofwaffles. You can choose a delicious fruit, sweet, or savoury topping for that healthywaffle. My favourite savoury offering was theWest Coast Original made with a buckwheatwaffle that was nutty and lightly grainy. It had the substance of a good bread with the light-ness of a waffle. The cream cheese wasmercifully just a couple of dabs on each quadrant,

Cont’d on the next page

RebeccaWellm

am


RebeccaWellm

amRebecca

Wellm

am

RebeccaWellm

am

A comfortable chair.

A convenient side

table. Ample light.

All you need to

make your corner

of the universe

a window on

the world.

Call or visit

our showroom.

Or go online.

And settle in

for a good

long read.

Classic

living is

an easy

read.

Eames® walnut stool

and Eames lounge chair

and ottoman

589 Bay St, Victoria | 250-384-2554Visit us online www.gabrielross.com

Victoria 1437 Store St. 382-3201 Sidney 2506 Beacon Ave. 656-0011see what’s in-store at; www.muffetandlouisa.com

WINTER SALE!

Muffet and Louisa invites you to save 20% - kitchen, dining, bed & bath -

almost everything in-store is on sale!December 27 - January 15, 2011

with the emphasis on the four small mounds of salmon lox toppedwith capers and choppedred onions. Cleverly, a little hint of maple syrup is added to the cream cheese; the sweetaccent plays nicely with the onions. The Johnny Mac is not so much a deconstruction of aclassic breakfast as a reconstruction. Instead of fruit salad and bacon on the side, the waf-fle is topped with thin slices of bacon and Brie, with some spritely slivers of green appleand a sprinkling of basil. The flavours blend well, but I really wanted thicker-cut go-for-itbacon, like the kind they smoke at Red BarnMarket, rather than a paper-thin hint-o’-bacon.The fruit waffle we chose was the Strawberry Lemon Flax – hey, health food again! This wasbeautifully colourful to behold and appeals to children. The atmosphere is cheap and cheer-ful, but not quite cosy. The food comes quickly; and it’s overall a fun, fast snack for under$10.

Zap Thai | 1207 Esquimalt Rd. at Fraser | 250-389-1845

There aren’t many restaurants where you can get a little mothering with your meal. Chefand owner Lek Kitzler clearly couldn’t bear hearing my husband’s rasping, hacking coughfrom the-cold-that-wouldn’t-leave. As soon as we sat down, she put a bowl of Thom Yamsoup in front of him with sign language exhortations about its effectiveness in getting

various fluidsstock, roastefor me was thkicking mysethe spicinessries are medivarious disheminute splasgreen onion iyour little spshould be throbotically chsucking it likeare huge andlinoleum – bu

Pig Dog | 749

If you’re famiprobably alreorganic sausable ingrediea “chowdownchili and pullenamesake, thdog, or spicyprotein, bacocheese dog,sausage andan option. Thmain dish. It’sis all about cpotatoes in afresh pretzel.of context, buin a funny, namoan a coup

CORRECTIONprinted incor

Smoked salmon, cream cheese, capers, red onion on a whole wheat waffleserved with greens at West Coast Waffles

Tom Yum Gai soup – thai hot and sour soup w/ chicken and mushroomsand roasted chili paste; and the Pad Thai at Zap Thai.


RebeccaWellm

amRebecca

Wellm

am

RebeccaWellm

am


and choppedse; the sweetstruction of aside, the waf-f green appler-cut go-for-ithint-o’-bacon.gain! This wasap and cheer-ack for under

ur meal. Chefacking coughof Thom Yamss in getting

various fluids flowing. Happily, the soup was tasty as well as medicinal, with its chickenstock, roasted chili paste, and tang of lemongrass.While this was good, the knockout soupfor me was the Thom Ka, a sweet coconut soup with a pleasantly tart tamarind finish. I amkicking myself for not bringing a pint home. I also appreciate that this chef does not alterthe spiciness of her dishes. The Pad Thai is mild, as is the yellow curry, and all the other cur-ries are medium spicy. This tells me that she has chosen the appropriate seasonings for thevarious dishes and is letting the flavours blend over time rather than throwing in a last-minute splash of heat to meet a customer request. I loved the inch-long chunks of sautéedgreen onion in the Pad Thai, and themix of noodles, shredded carrots and bean sprouts thatyour little sprout is guaranteed to enjoy while you move up the spice scale. And that stopshould be the silken, seductive red curry. My husband came out of his stupor enough torobotically chant “love it” after each bite. I kept dipping my spoon into the sauce and thensucking it like a lollipop. Many dishes are $12 or so; the Pad Thai is more, but the servingsare huge and you’ll likely bring home leftovers. The atmosphere is stark – think lots oflinoleum – but a lot of love goes into the food.

Pig Dog | 749E View St. between Blanshard and Douglas | 250-381-4677

If you’re familiar with the Pig restaurants and their focus on locally sourced meats, you’veprobably already guessed this: the “hot dogs” at Pig Dog aren’t really hot dogs. They’reorganic sausages from the Village Butcher Shop in Oak Bay and are free of unpronounce-able ingredients. But that’s about the only frou-frou detail about a meal (or should I call ita “chowdown”) at Pig Dog. The dogs are served loaded with extras, dripping sauces andchili and pulled pork onto thin white paper plates. But I’m getting ahead of myself. First, thenamesake, the Pig Dog. For $6.50, this is your choice of sausage (beef “hot dog,” turkeydog, or spicy smokie) topped with fried onions, pulled pork and, in case you need moreprotein, bacon. It’s messy and marvellous. I chose the spicy smokie as the base of my chilicheese dog, also $6.50. The brisket-based chili is thick and meaty, so it drapes over thesausage and does not seep through the bun. Who needs condiments? But sides are surean option. The coleslaw offers a bit of zing to contrast your meat-on-meat-with-extra-meatmain dish. It’s a pretty mix of red and green cabbage, with some grated carrot added in, andis all about crunch rather than creaminess. The potato salad is equally attractive, with redpotatoes in a light sauce sprinkled with mustard seeds. And for even more fun, try the hot,fresh pretzel. It’s good with the Thai Sriracha sauce they have on hand (which is totally outof context, but who cares?) This is not a place you linger—it has only eight bar stool seatsin a funny, narrow space. It’s a place where you shove dogs into your sauce-smearedmouth,moan a couple of times, and carry on your way.

CORRECTION: In the Dec/Nov 2010 Issue the phone number for Pure Vanilla Bakery wasprinted incorrectly. The correct number is 250-592-2896. Our apologies.

at waffle

rooms

The Pig dog with French onions and bacon

the next page


the healthful foodie —By Kathryn Kusyszyn

Until recently, gluten-free baking typically meant taste-free baking—bland, thin breads,cookies and other goodies whose consistency most resembled sawdust. But with the fast-increasing numbers of people avoiding gluten, businesses are stepping up with innovativeofferings. Whether you’re avoiding gluten out of choice or necessity, you no longer have togive up delicious, nutritious food. Gluten-free devotees can now turn to resources such asnon-profit organizations, specialty businesses and websites. And gluten-free baked optionsfor various tastes and pocketbooks can be found all over Vancouver Island.For professionally baked gluten-free goodies in Victoria, visit Origin Bakery. Savoury to

sweet, each recipe is uniquely created by pastry chef Tara Black. Every single ingredient(some products contain 25) is researched and verified to be gluten-free. Co-owner MarionNeuhauser goes the extra step to educate the eateries that sell their wares around safehandling and serving.Up island? Stop in at Village Bulk Foods in Qualicum Beach, which hosts Silly Yak Bakery

in its gluten-free kitchen. Pick up fresh, ready-to-eat breads, muffins and cookies, or stockup on perogies, pizza crusts and pie shells for quick homemade meals.Over on Salt Spring Island, Laughing Daughters Bakery sifts organic ancient grains into

favourites like lemon poppyseed loaf, date squares, baguettes and cheese sticks. An entirelygluten-free facility, the recipes are the brainchild of Mhairi Carlyle, who is celiac herself. Allrecipes are taste-tested and approved by her three celiac daughters, for whom the businessis named.Several personal chefs are heeding the call and offering gluten-free items delivered to your

home. JaniceMansfield of Victoria’s Real FoodMade Easy personal chef services takes weeklyorders from her customers for breads, brownies and everything in between. Check her web-site’s fresh sheet, submit your order via email or Twitter and start salivating. Personal chefLaura Moore of Good for You Gourmet in Victoria caters to gluten-free diets and offerspersonal cooking lessons.Transitioning to a gluten-free diet can be overwhelming, especially when preparing meals

for a family. Enter Bonnie Nisbet, a celiac and mother of two. She provides personalconsulting on shopping and meal preparation to support those making this lifestyle changeand offers “everything she wishes were available to her when she found out she had celiacdisease.” This now includes Bon’s Gourmet Chocolate Chip Cookie Mix. Just 13 minutes fromstart to finish for two dozen delicious cookies.Several gluten-free mixes on the market offer foolproof results and can be adapted to

making pancakes, muffins, cakes and breads. However, if you’d like to bake from scratch,pastry chef Tara Black suggests doing your research and starting with a simple recipe.Use only certified gluten-free ingredients and for maximum nutrition use freshly milled

whole grains and seeds. Quinoa, a “supergrain” with high protein and iron content, is quickto prepare and mild in flavour. Buckwheat is another versatile seed rich in magnesium andmanganese. Millet, a tiny yellow grain, is a good source of fibre, protein, vitamins andminerals. Select individually packaged items labelled gluten-free over bulk items to reducethe chance of cross-contamination. Blogs, websites and specialty magazines provide unlim-ited recipes.Even local grocery store have something to offer these days; check the freezer, baking and

cookie aisles. Some stores even have dedicated gluten-free sections or special signage tohelp you locate these items. Gluten-free grocery tours and celiac social support meetingsare held at stores with larger gluten-free selections.A diagnosis of celiac disease or a need to avoid gluten for other reasons doesn’t automat-

ically condemn you to a life without baked goods. These days, gluten-free just means doingyour research and seeking out healthy, yummy ingredients and goodies, whether you’reeating out, baking in, or getting them delivered right to your door.

Gary

Hynes

CARE-FREE GLUTEN-FREENeed to avoid gluten? These days, that doesn’t automatically condemn you to a life without baked goods.

Where to get your gluten-free goodiesFreshOrigin Bakery, 1525 Pandora Ave. (in Stadacona Centre), Victoria,250-590-4149 www.originbakery.comSilly Yak Bakery, at Village Bulk Foods, 172 Avenue W., Qualicum Beach,250-752-2857, www.seniors101.ca/silly-yak.htmlLaughing Daughters Bakery, 125 Websters Dr., Salt Spring Island,250-653-2412

Frozen, Mixes and PreparedThe Market Stores, Yates and Millstream, Victoria and Langford;online gluten-free list, tours and celiac social support,www.themarketstores.comLifestyle Markets, Victoria; gluten-free grocery tours,www.lifestylemarkets.comThrifty Foods, www.thriftyfoods.ca; online gluten-free grocery listPlanet Organic, Victoria, www.planetorganic.caPeppers Foods, 3829 Cadboro Bay Rd., Victoria, 250-477-6513,www.peppers-foods.comThe House of Nutrition, Victoria, www.houseofnutrition.com

ResourcesThe Celiac Scene, a comprehensive listing of celiac-trusted restaurantsacross Canada, www.theceliacscene.comThe Canadian Celiac Association, www.victoriaceliac.orgJanice Mansfield, www.realfoodmadeeasy.caLaura Moore, The Good for You Gourmet, www.wholefoodsvictoria.caBonnie Nisbet, www.ez2bglutenfree.comAllergic Living Magazine, www.allergicliving.com


smile. if you love taste.

Ideas with Passion

The new Talea. Welcome your customers to a new era of enjoyment with

a whole world of coffees always right at hand. A statement in modern

coffee technology: Touch2Cappuccino, a digital display with Touch-Ring

and Saeco Brewing System SBS.

Discover more delights for your business. www.saeco-talea.com

Gary

Hynes

ds.

dies

ria,

um Beach,

and,

rd;

list

250-384-8550


Real FoodLocal

Sustainable

Matt & Cheryl Thompson - proprietors

Matt thompson - chef de cuisine

www.bistrocache.com

7120 West Saanich Rd., Brentwood Bay

250-652-5044Return to Good Food

(250) 642-35961831 Maple Ave. Sooke

www.markuswharfsiderestaurant.com

Vancouver Island’sbest kept secret

Markus’Wharfside Restaurant

Another year has come and gone,and what a ride it has been. The yearstarted in high spirits in British Columbiawith the 2010 Olympic and ParalympicWinter Games. But by summer, thatfestive spirit had diminished with theintroduction of the HST, and thenslumped further with new drinking anddriving rules in the fall. Underlying theyear was a slow recovery from theeconomic recession and a hospitalitysector feeling more than a little uncer-tain. But Victoria is full of people wholove and are passionate about local food,and in spite of it all went out to restau-rants, coffee shops, festivals and eventswith even more vigor and enthusiasmthen ever.Each year, new restaurants open in the

garden city and this year saw about adozen new restaurants open in Victoria.Here are a few of the news ones thathave people talking.Pizzeria Prima Strada opened a second location on Bridge Street in March. The location

has a different feel than the Cook Street spot, more industrial, but still serves up deliciouspizza baked in a brick wood-fired oven.In late July, Ulla Restaurant opened at the bottom of Chinatown in Victoria in the former

home of Tamami Sushi. In a refreshingly modern yet warm setting, owners Sahara Tamarinand Brad Holmes serve up creative yet contemporary west coast menu options. Ulla hasreceived many reviews, from positive to glowing, and have people excited about tryingsomething new again. Christabel Padmore, owner of The Little Piggy, was at Ulla on theirfirst full night of service agrees and adds “our dishes were all tasty and well executed andthe ingredients fresh and interesting. I’ll certainly be back.”Relish Food and Coffee has received lots of praise since opening in August, and for good

reason. Everything is caringly made in house by chef and owner Jamie Cummins. A unani-mous favorite is the chicken club sandwich with brie. The club is deliciously sublime withits freshly roasted chicken, grainy Dijon mustard and house made bun.Of course, the year was also marked by the long anticipation of the Atrium building on

Yates Street. As a hub for food offerings, the building is home to AJ’s Organic Café, HabitCoffee & Culture, Pig BBQ Joint and Zambri’s.Other restaurant openings are the Blue Note Café, Browns Social House,Moon Under

Water and Nostalgie Restaurant in Cadboro Bay. As well, many ethnic restaurants andtake eateries opened including Ayo Indonesian Food, Beirut Express, Geisha Tapas Bar,Haru Japanese Cuisine and BBQ, La Taquisa, Puetro Vallarta Amigos and the Real Tasteof India.Victoria lost two restaurants this year, both had only been open about a year and a half.

Solomon's, known for serving up some of the best cocktails in town, closed its doors in lateJanuary. While the spot is no longer around, the man behind the restaurant is. SolomonSigel is now at Veneto Tapa Lounge as manager and mixologist. The second hit was theclosing of Lucy’s in the Square this fall. Lucy’s was well liked and will be rememberedfondly for its hole in the wall ambience, great food and friendly service.

TRENDSThe rise of gourmet fast food in Victoria continued with the expansion of food carts in CookSt. Village, the new Puetro Vallarta Amigos Mexican food cart at the bottom of Yates, theopening of Beirut Express on Fort Street and the unforeseen success of West CoastWaffles.The coffee trend this year is that everyone is drinking more of it. Habit opened a second

location in the Atruim building, Discovery Coffee opened its doors in a second location inOak Bay, and Caffe Fantastico makes three with a new café in Dockside Green. Frenchpress coffee, Americanos and café latte sales are all up as people try out new places whilestill supporting their regular shops.Ron Kettner of Fernwood Coffee Company competed against the best baristas in the

country to win the 2010 Canadian Barista Championship in Toronto. With this honour, Ronshowed the rest of Canada just how serious Victoria is about coffee.

EVENTS AND FESTIVALSThere’s always something to celebrate in British Columbia, especially when it comes tofood, wine and beer - and 2010 was no exception.

AFoodies

YearIn

ReviewBy Melody Wey and Eva Cherneff

During thegoing to suppthe third anntogether to rThe festivalColwood eacThe first-ev

Square. The oas others likeBakery and ZThe second

main event awith food presmaller eventogether a grSeptember

Canadian Chechefs and deindustry evenyear being ofor this evenbeloved culinVancouver

Metchosin. Evland and theexception. Absampling theSea Cider F

and Get FresPrima StradaHere Now haMarket Socieproduce pubAnd lastly,

cocktails on tworkshops thPacific NorthwVanderWal osyrup, dark r

CHEERSDespite howThis year sawPhilips BrewVancouver Isture on B.C.Victoria’s neEnglish styleto offer someAnd to prov

sold out in retotal, the twbrewers with

COOKINGThis year, Vacious Gardenthem, will beAs one doo

in Victoria. Coof cooking cdemonstratioOf course,

Thrifty Foodsclaimed the aCooking cl

have becomeelement to thtry new thing

The locationup delicious

in the formerhara Tamarinons. Ulla hasabout tryingUlla on theirexecuted and

and for goodmins. A unani-sublime with

m building onc Café, Habit

Moon Undertaurants andha Tapas Bar,he Real Taste

ar and a half.doors in lateis. Solomond hit was theremembered

carts in Cookof Yates, theWest Coast

ned a secondnd location inreen. Frenchplaces while

aristas in thehonour, Ron

n it comes to

Aes

earIn

ewCherneff


www.paprika-bistro.com | 2524 Estevan Ave | Victoria | BC

Reservations | 250.592.7424dinner from 5:30pm, 7 nights a week

Proud supporter of local farms, wineries

European inspiredentrées

starting at $20

Blind Tasting Competition & Dinner January 19

Wine Makers Grand Gala Dinner January 20

Riedel Crystal Glass Challenge January 21

Wine Tasting & Food Grazing January 22

Festival I & Festival IIPerformances by the VI Symphony January 21 & 22

www.vancouverislandsymphony.comPort Theatre Ticket Centre | 250.754.8550

January 19–22, 2011

During the spring, the first ever Culinaire took place in Victoria with partial proceedsgoing to support students enrolled in the Camosun College Culinary Arts program. In May,the third annual Island Chefs Collaborative Defending Our Backyard brought Victoria chefstogether to raise awareness of local food and the importance of supporting our farmers.The festival has been held at Fort Rodd Hill and Fisgard Lighthouse historic sites inColwood each year, and this year over a thousand people came out for it.The first-ever Fernwood Bites was held on the eve of summer solstice in Fernwood

Square. The outdoor event showcased chefs and eateries in and around Fernwood, as wellas others like Devour, Phillips Brewing, Pig BBQ Joint, Sea Cider, Victoria Gin, WildfireBakery and Zambri’s.The second annual Taste, Victoria’s festival of food and wine, was held in July with the

main event at the Crystal Gardens. The kickoff featuredmore than one hundred B.C. wineswith food prepared by local chefs. This year’s festival was a big success with many of thesmaller events and workshops selling out. Founder and producer, Kathy McAree puttogether a great festival, showing off the best of Vancouver Island.September is always a busy month on Vancouver Island, this year busier than most. The

Canadian Chefs Congress held at Providence Farm in Cobble Hill brought over five hundredchefs and delegates together from across Canada, making it was one of the biggestindustry events of the year. This event takes place in a different province every year, thisyear being our turn. Discussion was on the sustainability of our oceans. The committeesfor this event also wanted to leave a legacy for Providence Farm so in memory of thebeloved culinary icon James Barber an outdoor wood-burning oven was built.Vancouver Island’s 13th annual Feast of Fields was held on Parry Bay Sheep Farm in

Metchosin. Every year, Feast of Fields is a phenomenal event that brings people back to theland and the simple pleasures of enjoying local, sustainable food. This year was noexception. About 600 people enjoyed the afternoon in gumboots, walking the pasture andsampling the best food, beer, wine, spirits, cider, coffee and tea the Island has to offer.Sea Cider Farm and Cider House hosted Apple Day in September. Lifecycles, Sea Cider

and Get Fresh joined up for a day of apple identification, delicious pizza from PizzeriaPrima Strada, an apple pie contest and great music. Also that month, the first annual EatHere Now harvest was a great success. Organized by the Victoria Downtown PublicMarket Society, the event supported the re-establishment of a year round, indoor localproduce public market for downtown Victoria.And lastly, the Art of the Cocktail was held in October to celebrate some of the best

cocktails on the west coast. The festival included a grand tasting at the Crystal Gardens withworkshops throughout the weekend and a spirited competition for best bartender of thePacific Northwest. Competing against seven distinguished bartenders, the winner was DirkVanderWal of Lure Restaurant & Bar for his decadent combination of homemade chaisyrup, dark rum and crème de cacao.

CHEERS TO BEERDespite howmuch taste and sophistication we continue to cultivate, we still love our beer.This year saw the growing success of local breweries like Canoe, Driftwood Brewery,Philips Brewery, Salt Spring Island Ales, Spinnakers, Swans Buckerfield’s Brewery andVancouver Island Brewery. High praise was given to six by NBC’s Today Show during a fea-ture on B.C. beers as part of their coverage of the 2010 Winter Games. Also this year,Victoria’s newest brewpub, Moon Under Water, opened in Rock Bay. As a traditionalEnglish style pub with seasonal ales and English-style service protocols, the place hopesto offer something a little different and stand out from the other brewpubs in town.And to prove just how much we love beer, tickets for the Great Canadian Beer Festival

sold out in record time - with tickets for the Saturday event selling out in eight minutes. Intotal, the two day festival sold out in three hours, selling 7,000 tickets. There were 53brewers with 172 different beers.

COOKING SCHOOLSThis year, Vancouver Island lost two terrific cooking schools – Fairburn Farm and Terrali-cious Gardening and Cooking School. Both the schools, and the wonderful people who ranthem, will be greatly missed.As one door closes another one opens; new cooking schools and classes are on the rise

in Victoria. Cook Culture in the Atrium building opened late in the year and offers a varietyof cooking classes. La Tavola Kitchenware Boutique opened in Oak Bay and hasdemonstrations every Friday and classes every Saturday.Of course, you can still find favourites like Denise Marchessault of French Mint and

Thrifty Foods Cooking and Lifestyle Centre. Also noteworthy, chef Heidi Fink once againclaimed the award for “Best in the City” cooking classes for her many offerings.Cooking classes have surpassed everyone’s expectations over the last few years and

have become a major player in the food community in B.C. These classes bring anotherelement to the table and allow the everyday home cook and food enthusiast to learn andtry new things with a little help from some of the best chefs around.

With two tofu factories, a raw food café, a bakery known for vegan cupcakes, a homegrownline of tempeh burgers, a cornucopia of vegetarian cooking classes, and its very ownbestselling vegan cookbook author, Victoria could be rechristened “Vegville.”In any case, the Vancouver Island Vegetarian Association had a very good reason to

celebrate at its 30th anniversary party in November: Victoria has come a long way since PatBastone founded the association in 1980 to “serve as a source of encouragement andinformation on the vegetarian way of life.”Three decades ago, Victoria simply wasn’t very vegetarian friendly. Current VIVA chair Trevor

Murdock likens the potlucks and “dine-outs” he started attending in 1993 to support groupmeetings.“Getting tofu used to be hard,” he says. “Now you can get Yves Ground Round in every

grocery store.”Sharing shopping tips and recipes was once a key motivator for Victoria vegetarians get-

ting together; nowadays, much of that information is available online. But that hasn’t stoppedVIVA members from meeting up to test the vegetarian friendliness of local restaurants.Along with Rebar, which opened as a juice bar in 1988, Green Cuisine has been a go-to

restaurant for Victoria vegetarians and vegans for just over two decades. Andy Cunninghamopened theMarket Square eatery in 1990 partly because he “always wanted to have a restau-rant” and partly because he was encouraged by the number of Victoria residents willing todrive to Sooke for his macrobiotic cooking classes.“We’re more than a restaurant; we’re teaching people how to eat vegetarian food,” he says.

“If you just read a book about it, it’s daunting. Here, people can ‘test’ the ways thatvegetarians eat.”And there’s a cornucopia of options for testing at Green Cuisine. Soups and salads are

always available, but year-after-year the most popular dishes at the pay-by-weight, 100-per-cent vegan buffet are comfort foods like moussaka, casseroles and pasta.“A lot of us grew up eating meat,” says Cunningham, a vegetarian since age 18. “We have

an emotional attachment to our food; if it’s all strange then it’s unsettling.”A vegetarian for as long as Green Cuisine has been in business, VIVA chair Trevor Murdock

says it’s now “extremely easy” to be a vegetarian in Victoria. There’s even a cafeteria at theUniversity of Victoria where he works serving nothing but vegetarian food.As locals know—and tourists find out quickly—you can stumble into just about any café


naturally inspiring

Ucluelet, BC • 1-877-762-5011 • www.blackrockresort.com

Escape to Black RockOceanfront Resort,

a magical location on British Columbia’s

wild west coast.

hotel

restaurant

spa

or pub in towrants often gPink BicycleonMo:Lé’smFurthermo

ask if you’d pwhole tablefumake a specWhen it co

“carnivore” fcuisine is ent“They’re re

he says.Not surpris

chair Sarah KDolce Veganrecipes on evchallenging“fabulous” foand Futaba f“We have

Yates]. It’s neCheese and swho have toSelf-taught

meat—is woclasses andshe landed iHollyhock re“One of th

West Coast,”In addition

Limberger teworkshops ostudents arehow to makeWhich is ju

Canada, a mocouncil to pdoesn’t takebecome overIn the meantto be held inNeedless t

RESOURC

milestones —By Holland Gidney

Victoria’s top restaurants are known to be vegetarian-friendly. Here, roastedbeet with organic greens, lemon ricotta and honey-mustard dressing isprepared at Cafe Brio.

AndreiFedorov

¡viva! THE VEGETARIAN REVOLUTIONCelebrating 30 years of vegetarianism in Victoria.

Spiced chicchutney and

VIVA islandvGreen CuisinSarah Krame

evor Murdockfeteria at the

bout any café

g

com

E ck RockO Resort,

a tion on B mbia’s

w oast.

hotel

restaurant

spa


250-389-1856

michaeltourigny.com

MICHAELTOURIGNYSTUDIOS

P H O T O G R A P H YFood

[email protected] Douglas Street - Unit F

1715 Government [email protected]

Dinner 5:30 - 11 pmTuesday to Saturday

or pub in town and find somethingmeat-free to eat.What’s more, Vancouver Island restau-rants often go beyond the common courtesy of offering a single vegetarian/vegan option.Pink Bicycle has not one veggie burger but three; there’s a tofu scramble and veg sausagesonMo:Lé’smenu; and Quebec vegans can eat Cabin 12’s poutine guilt-free.Furthermore, order only vegetarian dishes at Little Thai Place and your server will likely

ask if you’d prefer soy sauce instead of the ubiquitous fish sauce. And Murdock says if awhole tableful of vegans turns up at the Blue Nile for Ethiopian food, the kitchenmight justmake a special dish.When it comes to showing off Victoria’s best vegetarian dishes, Murdock likes to take

“carnivore” friends to The Lotus Pond, the Chinese restaurant whose Buddhist vegetariancuisine is entirely vegan.“They’re really good at the fakemeat stuff—you don’t even know you’re not eating duck,”

he says.Not surprisingly, Lotus Pond is also a favourite of vegan cookbook author and VIVA vice-

chair Sarah Kramer, who’s written and co-written bestsellers like How It All Vegan and LaDolce Vegan! and has even produced a new Go Vegan calendar for 2011 complete withrecipes on every page. Since going vegan in the early 1990s, she says it’s become lesschallenging to find foods she can eat in her hometown. Kramer says Café Bliss is“fabulous” for vegans and also recommends The Joint for pizza, Hernande’z for burritosand Futaba for brown-rice sushi.“We have it really lucky here in Victoria,” she says. “I mostly shop at The Market [on

Yates]. It’s near my house and they pretty much have everything I need, including DaiyaCheese and soy-free Earth Balance Buttery Spread. I have friends in other ‘bigger’ citieswho have to travel all over town to multiple stores to find vegan products. I’m so spoiled.”Self-taught vegetarian chef Sonja Limberger—who professes to not knowing how to cook

meat—is working on a cookbook of her own, compiling recipes she uses in her cookingclasses and her catering business, Five Elements Cooking. After growing up in Ontario,she landed in Victoria 10 years ago after stints cooking at The Naam in Vancouver andHollyhock retreat centre on Cortes Island.“One of the reasons I moved to B.C. was I knew there was more vegetarianism on the

West Coast,” she says.In addition to regular catering gigs at places like the Swanwick Centre in Metchosin,

Limberger teaches classes in Nepalese, Indian and African vegetarian cuisine and offersworkshops on appetizers, potluck hits and soups. She says only about 30 percent of herstudents are vegetarians; the rest would just like to eat less meat. “They want to knowhow to make more vegetarian dishes,” says Limberger.Which is just fine by VIVA’s Trevor Murdock, who’s also involved withMeatlessMondays

Canada, a movement to get everyone eating more vegetarianmeals. Hemay never get citycouncil to put forward a meatless mandate like Ghent, Belgium, did in 2009 but thatdoesn’t take away from acknowledging just how vegetarian- and vegan-friendly Victoria hasbecome over the past 30 years—and how much friendlier it might become in another 30.In the meantime, VIVA’s already planning its next big party: a summer vegetarian food fairto be held in 2011 or 2012.Needless to say, go vegetarian in Victoria and you’ll never go hungry.

RESOURCES:

re, roasteddressing is

AndreiFedorov

Spiced chickpea-cashew hummous, cumin-mustard oil, roasted tomato-gingerchutney and grilled whole wheat pita at the Rebar Modern Food.

VIVA islandveg.comGreen Cuisine greencuisine.comSarah Kramer govegan.net

Five Elements Cookingfive-elements-cooking.comMeatless Mondays meatlessmondays.ca

RebeccaWellm

an


Lazy-day BrunchWinter is meant for cozying up with comfort food and good company. Brunch is just the ticket. It’s alow-key, casual get-together more than formal “entertaining”. e food is rustic and reflective of theseason: a dark chard (or kale) pie laden with local hazelnuts and dried cranberries, crispy fritters full ofcreamy blue cheese and crumb coated jam squares made with summer’s best berry jam from the pantry.

local kitchen

In a bowl, mPour enou

pan. Using aFry until go

oven to warm

Roll pastrythem up agaCut chard lIn a large wIncrease heTurn mixtuSpoon into

cool to room

TREVE’S

OLDWORLDpalate. Plus

NEWWORLcherry notes

The table is readyfor an inviting,lazy-day brunchJust add friends

and family.


et. It’s ae of thes full ofpantry.

APPLE & ARTISAN BLUE CHEESE FRITTERS

I love the gooey melting cheese in what otherwise would just be a potato pancake. While they can be made ahead, I like to sizzle themat the last minute to dish up hot out of the pan to hungry guests.Makes 15 to 18 fritters

1 green onion, sliced1 apple (unpeeled), cored and grated1 large potato, peeled and grated2-oz Hilary’s You Boo Blue, Moonstruck’s Beddis Blue or Poplar Grove’s Tiger Blue, crumbled2 Tbsp chopped fresh parsley or cilantro1/4 cup all-purpose flour1 tsp baking powderSea salt and black pepper, to taste2 egg whitesVegetable oil for frying

In a bowl, mix together onion, apple, potato, cheese, parsley, flour and baking powder. Season with pinches of sea salt and pepper. Lightly beat egg whites until frothy, then stir in.Pour enough oil into a large, deep frying pan to come about a 1/3- in. up the side. Set over medium heat. When hot, scoop a heaping spoonful of fritter mixture and carefully turn into

pan. Using a fork, flatten slightly. Repeat, fitting 2 to 3 more fritters into pan. Work in batches and don’t crowd pan.Fry until golden, about 1 to 2 min. per side. Remove from pan and drain on absorbent paper. Fritters can be made 1 hour before serving. Keep at room temperature, then reheat in 375F

oven to warm before serving.

WINTER GREEN TART

This is similar to a quiche, but it’s really all about the hardy winter greens with just enough egg and other goodies tomake it hold together.It tastes best at room temperature, which means you can make it ahead that morning, then relax. Serves 8

Pastry for 1 deep dish pie1 very large bunch of Swiss chard or kale3 slices thick cut bacon, chopped2 shallots, minced2 garlic cloves, minced2 Tbsp all-purpose flourSea salt and freshly ground pepper1 cup crumbled feta cheese (try Salt Spring Island Cheese’s St. Jo Feta made with

goat milk)1/3 cup toasted local hazelnuts, chopped1/3 cup dried cranberries (try Yellow Point Cranberries fresh when in season)4 large eggs1/2 cup sour cream

Roll pastry, then line bottom and partway up sides of a 9-in springform pan. Prick bottom and sides with a fork. Line with parchment paper, then fill with beans or rice. Be sure to pushthem up against sides of crust so they won’t collapse during baking. Bake in preheated 425F oven for 15 minutes. Carefully remove paper and beans.Cut chard leaves from stems. Finely chop stems and coarsely chop leaves. Keep separate.In a large wide saucepan or Dutch oven, sauté bacon until crispy, then remove from pan. Add shallots and garlic to fat in pan and sauté over medium heat until soft, 5 to 7 minutes.Increase heat to medium-high and add stems. Cover and cook until wilted, 3 to 5 minutes. Add chard leaves. Pan will be full. Cover and steam and until wilted, 2 to 4 minutes.Turn mixture into a large bowl and stir in flour. Season with salt and pepper. Add cooked bacon, cheese, hazelnuts and cranberries.Spoon into pastry and evenly spread out. Beat eggs with sour cream, salt and pepper. Slowly pour over greens. Reduce heat to 375F. Bake until centre of tart is set, 35 to 40 minutes. Let

cool to room temperature before serving.

Recipes and food styling by JENNIFER DANTER • Photography byMICHAEL TOURIGNY •Wine pairing by TREVE RING

TREVE’S WINE SUGGESTIONS

OLDWORLD – a crisp Cava sparkling wine from Spain would go well – bright apple and mineral rich bubbles to cut the strong flavours (cheeses, bacon, garlic) and cleanse thepalate. Plus bubbles makes anything better – especially brunch.

NEWWORLD – a mid day meal like brunch suits a lighter red. And a fruity Pinot Noir from a cooler climate, like New Zealand’s Martinborough, will retain the grape’s earthycherry notes while expressing naturally higher acid due to the growing conditions.

e is readyinviting,

ay brunchd friendsnd family.


Serving You Is Our Pleasure....A

WAY BACKWHEN JAMMY SQUARES

Remember those summer jams you made months ago? It’s time for a hit ofjeweled-toned, sweet summer fruit sandwiched between crumbly butteryshortbread.

Base1/3 cup granulated sugar11/2 cups all-purpose flour1/2 tsp baking powder1/2 tsp salt1 egg1/2 cup butter, melted

Topping1/3 cup granulated sugar11/2 cups all-purpose flour1/2 tsp ground cardamom or cinnamon (optional)3/4cup cold butter, cut into cubes

Filling3 cups jam (preferably not too chunky)

For the base, in a food processor, whirl sugar. Add flour, baking powderand salt. Pulse to mix, then add egg and melted butter. Whirl just untilmixture starts to come together.Turn into a 9X13-in pan lined with parchment paper and press to evenly

spread out. Bake in preheated 375F until golden, about 10 to 12 minutes.For the topping, whirl sugar in food processor then pulse in flour and

cardamom. Add butter and pulse just until coarse crumbs form. Mixture willlook floury – but that’s O.K.Remove base from oven and spread with jam. Sprinkle with crumb

topping.Bake until jam is bubbly and topping is deep golden, 30 to 35 minutes.

Cool completely, then cut into squares or bars.

Sex & The City - Carrie: There are very few things thisNew Yorker loves as much as Sunday brunch. You cansleep until noon and still get eggs anywhere in the city,alcohol is often included with the meal, and Sunday isthe one day a week you get the single woman's sportspages: the New York Times wedding section.{ }

If sushi is thnoodle soupVancouver infans.“Ramen is

westside resing in Tokyo ewhole bowl iAnderson’s

“mise-en-scèbroth—setsOf the ram

has the mostMotomachi

TraceyKusiew

icz

www.eatmagazine.ca JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2011 29

Serving You Is Our Pleasure....All Year Through!

2577 Cadboro Bay Road,VICTORIA

592-0823

Quality meats,

Poultry, Cheeses,

Specialty Products

& Condiments

for a hit ofly buttery

ng powderjust until

to evenlyminutes.flour andixture will

ith crumb

5 minutes.

thiscancity,ay isorts}

If sushi is the yang of Japanese cuisine, ramen is the yin—humble and low-budget, thisnoodle soup stirs up strong emotions among its devotees. Now that the ramen trend has hitVancouver in earnest, new shops are opening every fewmonths, much to the delight of localfans.“Ramen is very close to my heart,” says Ted Anderson, the chef-de-cuisine of Vancouver’s

westside restaurant Refuel, who discovered the “comforting and delicious” dish while work-ing in Tokyo eight years ago. “It seems really simple tomake, but if one thing is not good, thewhole bowl is ruined.”Anderson’s opinion echoes that of many ramen critics, who compare a bowl of ramen to a

“mise-en-scène” in which every element—from the bamboo shoots to the sardines in thebroth—sets the stage for a perfect ramen experience.Of the ramen options currently in Vancouver, Motomachi Shokudo off Denman and Robson

has the most well-rounded ramen presentation. As the reigning champion of healthy ramen,Motomachi offers a clear, light broth made from local organic chicken and sardines. Its

delicate shio (salt) ramen is seasonedwith natural Himalayan (or Mongolian) salt and toppedwith crunchy angel-haired leek. The organic eggs have a tangerine-hued yolk, whichcrumbles on the tongue and melts away with sweet flavour.From behind the counter, chef Daiji Matsubara brings out four different noodle types piled

on a black wooden tray. Grabbing a handful of pale yellow strands, he says, “These thin,straight noodles complement the shio broth perfectly—the thicker noodle is crimped, so thatit scoops more of the thick miso broth as you eat.” The green “jade” noodle, meanwhile,contains wakame seaweed and makes a refreshing cold ramen.The chef says unlike franchise ramen houses, Motomachi prides itself on experimental

dishes. While some of these have ended as flops, the “bamboo-charcoal dark miso ramen”has proved to be a long-running hit. The thick black broth has a sharp miso flavour, layeredwith mellow undertones of chicken and fish and followed by a spicy afterbite.For people wanting a taste of the heavier, marrow-rich tonkotsu broth, Santouka is the

restaurant of choice. A famed franchise in Japan, Santouka features a milky white broth witha subtle pork flavour that can be slurped to the last drop. “Our signature is in boiling thepork bones for two whole days and getting the creaminess of it in the soup,” says managerArt Talstra.Everything at Santouka revolves around the broth: the bowls, Talstra explains, have a

narrow opening to prevent the soup from losing heat, while the noodles have a high flourcontent to soak up more broth. The toasted sesame seed garnish creates a divine harmonyof flavours when crunched with a mouthful of soup.Another Santouka specialty is the toroniku pork cheek jowl ramen. It’s as delicate as

sashimi and similarly sliced, with layer of gelatinous fat along the side and oozing exquisitesoy-sauce flavour. Despite its relatively steep price ($12.95), eating at Santouka without try-ing toroniku would be like touring Tokyo and missing the Tsukiji Fish Market.Despite the influx of new rivals like Santouka, however, many fans still swear by Kintaro,

one of Vancouver’s original ramen houses. Ramen at Kintaro’s is a decadent affair, with discsof pork resting atop a bed of chewy yellow noodles in fat-speckled tonkotsu broth.Here, the ramen experience kicks in even before the order arrives: Kintaro is the only place

in Vancouver with an open view of the chefs at work. Twenty percent of Kintaro ramen’sdeliciousness comes from the mouth-watering spectacle of noodles being boiled and porkbeing cut into thick slabs on the counter.Unlike Santouka’s mild soup, Kintaro’s tonkotsu has a salty kick: flying fish, scallops and

kelp are among the 35 “secret ingredients” used in the rich broth. For those wanting a twiston tradition, Kintaro offers a cheese-miso ramen, which comes with a mountain of shreddedmozzarella and Swiss cheese.Even with all the variations of the noodle available, there is no consensus on the perfect

ramen bowl in Vancouver, or anywhere in the world for that matter.“Ask 10 people what they like in a ramen, and you’ll get 10 different answers,” says chef

Daiji Matsubara [who owns both Kintaro and Motomachi Shokudo]. “As chefs, we rack ourbrains to present people with the perfect ramen, but, ultimately, whatever the customersenjoy is best.”Motomachi Shokudo, Mon-Tue, Thu-Sun noon-11 p.m.,740 Denman St., Vancouver, 604-609-0310Hokkaido Ramen Santouka (aka Ramen Santouka), Mon-Sun 11 a.m.-10 p.m., 1690 Robson St.,604-681-8121, http://santouka.co.jp/en/Kintaro Ramen, Tue-Sun, noon-11 pm, 788 Denman St., 604-682-7568

A Yen for RamenThe simple noodle soup is high art for thosewho understand its secrets. —By Jenny Uechi

Bamboo-charcoalDark Miso Ramen

at MotomachiShokudo

TraceyKusiew

icz

DOThink artisan

You can eaforward recentertaining

The art ofpopularity oRuhlman andandmaintainyour favouri

Long befoinvolved sopreserve; wimminent sp

Duck conftheir flavourfor a couplehorror in my

Renderedit’s well worto have a paof the health

Duck confFrance, it’s kcrisped or starts or tortisalad pairedslathered on

Duck prosdry-cure rectraditional pand goes weweeks.

Cured salmto prepare ailar: bury thethe salt to w

Just beforewine vinegaIt keeps abo

RECIPES ON

30 EAT MAGAZINE JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2011

‘Culot

Text and foo

master cooking class

Duck RillettesOnce you have a stash of duck confit in the fridge, you caneasily make potted duck rillettes. Delicious slathered onFrench bread, rilletts make an ideal snack for impromptuentertaining.For the rillettes recipe visit www.eatmagazine.ca

DO TRY THIS AT HOMEThink artisan-cured meats are just for trendy restaurants? Think again.

You can easily prepare duck confit, duck prosciutto and cured salmon at home. These straight-forward recipes are delicious, versatile and keep well in the fridge. That translates into easyentertaining at a moment’s notice.

The art of preserving meat is no longer the exclusive domain of professional chefs thanks to thepopularity of cookbooks such as Charcuterie: The Craft of Salting, Smoking and Curing by MichaelRuhlman and Brian Polcyn. Curing your ownmeat, like home canning, is just another way to preserveandmaintain the integrity of your food.What’s more, curing lends itself to imaginative tinkering; addyour favourite herbs and spices and create your very own signature cured meat.

Long before refrigeration, meats were cured out of necessity to prevent spoilage. This usuallyinvolved some form of salting, drying, smoking or pickling. Pure fat is another clever way topreserve; when meat is buried under an airtight seal of fat, it is protected from the dangers ofimminent spoilage. The use of salt and fat is the magic behind duck confit.

Duck confit could not be easier to prepare: dust kosher salt and herbs over duck legs and allowtheir flavours to imbue the meat for a day or two. Rinse and dry the meat and poach it in duck fatfor a couple of hours until the meat is fall-off-the-bone tender. (This technique elicits gasps ofhorror in my cooking classes, but the anxiety subsides after the first succulent bite.)

Rendered duck fat is available at specialty butcher shops. While expensive, around $20 per litre,it’s well worth it. Once you’ve roasted potatoes in duck fat, there is no going back. You’ll be happyto have a pail in the fridge and you’ll find dozens of excuses to use it. For the record, duck fat is oneof the healthier fats available; it is particularly high in cholesterol-fighting monounsaturated fats.

Duck confit can be kept for at least a month in the refrigerator and reheated when needed. (InFrance, it’s kept in the cold cellar for months on end.) It can be servedwhole with the skin deliciouslycrisped or shredded and tucked into an infinite variety of foods including pastas, ragouts, soups,tarts or tortillas. You can serve it in a hearty French cassoulet with beans and sausages or in a lightsalad paired with fruit. It can also be finely chopped andmade into rillettes, a rustic spread deliciousslathered on a baguette. The variations are endless.

Duck prosciutto is salted duck breast, swaddled in cheesecloth and hung to dry. This simpledry-cure recipe, adapted from Charcuterie, yields a beautiful piece of meat similar in texture totraditional pork prosciutto. Duck prosciutto is a welcome addition to any salad or antipasto platterand goes well with fresh melon, mango, pear or figs. The duck may be kept refrigerated for severalweeks.

Cured salmon (gravlax if you’re Swedish) is part of my standard entertaining repertoire. It’s easyto prepare and guests love it. There are numerous ways to cure salmon, but the principles are sim-ilar: bury the fish in seasoned salt and sugar, add a few pounds of weight (cans work well) and allowthe salt to work its magic. My quick-cure recipe requires only 24 hours in the refrigerator.

Just before serving, I drizzle my cured salmon with a simple vinaigrette of grapeseed oil and whitewine vinegar. I serve it with raw shallots, fresh dill, capers, lemon and freshly ground black pepper.It keeps about a week in the refrigerator, but it never seems to lasts that long!

RECIPES ON THE NEXT PAGE


‘Curing meat in your own kitchen is alot easier than you might think.’

Text and food styling by DENISE MARCHESSAULT • Photography by CAROLINEWEST

FIND THEON THE E

Cured salmon makes for an easy starter or no-fussappetizer. Delicious served with rye bread, fresh dill,capers and a drizzle of lemon juice.

Paper-thin slices of duck proscuitto arescrumptious paired with fresh sweet pears,tart apples or ruby pomegranates.


DuckRecipe adaMichael Ruh

Place half thsnugly withoNestle the

duckmust b24 hours.Remove th

towels. Thebreasts on bWrap each

about 7 dayis 8 to 15°Cduck, you caajar. The duAfter a we

still feels sofirm and thefrom one toRemove th

to use. The d

Cured1 1/2 lb salm2 bunches f1 Tbsp light2 1/2 cups k2 1/2 cups s

Run your finpresent, remfronds and sPlace half

salmon willthe extra fluance of theCover the

plate on topweighing apfrom the salels.Slice as th

lots, fresh d

2 boneless d2 cups kosh1/2 tsp freshCheesecloth

Duck Confit

Combine the salt with the pepper, garlic, shallots, fennel, parsley and thyme. Sprinklehalf the mixture on the bottom of a dish large enough to hold the duck legs in a singlelayer. Place the duck on top of the salt mixture and then sprinkle with the remaining salt.Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 24 to 48 hours.Heat the oven to 240°F. Melt the duck fat in a saucepan over medium low heat.Remove the duck from the salt, rinse thoroughly and pat completely dry with paper

towels. Arrange the duck legs in a single snug layer in a wide, shallow, oven-safesaucepan, casserole or baking dish. Pour the melted fat over the duck. (The duck piecesmust be completely covered by fat.)Transfer the duck to the oven and gently simmer, uncovered, until the duck is tender and

can be easily pulled from the bone, approximately 2 to 3 hours. Check the oven occa-sionally to make sure the fat is gently simmering; confit can become tough if the oven istoo hot. Adjust the heat as required to achieve a very gentle simmer.Store the duck in the fat in the refrigerator for up to one month. Excess duck fat can be

strained and stored in the refrigerator for later use.When ready to use, brown the duck pieces, skin side down, in a frying pan to crisp the

skin. Then transfer to an oven until heated through, approximately 15 minutes at 325°F.Frozen duck legs and duck fat (sold in two-litre pails) are available at Slaters Meats in

Victoria. Oyama Sausage Company on Granville Island, in Vancouver, sells duck fat.

1/4 cup kosher salt1 1/2 tsp freshly ground pepper4 garlic cloves, thinly sliced2 large shallots, thinly sliced1 Tbsp fennel seeds, lightly crushed

1 Tbsp freshly chopped parsley4 sprigs fresh thyme6 duck legsApprox. 5 cups duck fat

Slaters Firs2577 Cadbo250-592-08Oyama SauGranville Isl604-327-74

Duck Confit with LentilsEnjoy comforting French bistrofare at home with succulent duckconfit with spicy lentils andcarrots. For the spicy lentil recipevisit www.eatmagazine.ca

TREVE’S WINE SUGGESTIONSThe very first wine that comes to mind for this isSherry. These Spanish fortified wines are soversatile, complex and delicious – and make aperfect complement to many charcuterie plates.A dryer style like fino or, slightly darker,amontillado would suit the salty richnessof the meats.

Another way to go would be an older vine, lowyielding, cool climate Riesling – they have thelaser focus acidity to stand up to the intensecured meats, along with a fruit sweetnessto complement their salty andsavoury character.


Duck ProsciuttoRecipe adapted from Charcuterie: The Craft of Salting, Smoking and Curing, byMichael Ruhlman and Brian Polcyn.

Place half the salt in a baking dish. The size of the dish should hold the duck breastssnugly without touching each other.Nestle the duck in the salt, skin side up, and cover with the balance of the salt. The

duckmust be completely covered with salt. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for24 hours.Remove the duck from the salt, rinse thoroughly and pat completely dry with paper

towels. The flesh should feel dense, and its colour will have deepened. Dust thebreasts on both sides with the white pepper.Wrap each breast in a layer of cheesecloth and tie with string. Hang the breasts for

about 7 days in the refrigerator or in a cool, humid place (the optimum temperatureis 8 to 15°C or 50 to 60°F). If your refrigerator does not have shelf-racks to hang theduck, you can place a cooling rack (or any such rack) on top of twoMason jars, slightlyajar. The duck can hang from the rack by kitchen string, between the jars.After a week, or two, the flesh should be firm but not hard throughout. If the meat

still feels soft, or raw, in the centre, continue to hang it in the refrigerator until it feelsfirm and the duck has lost about 30% of its original weight. This could take anywherefrom one to four weeks.Remove the cheesecloth, wrap the duck in plastic wrap and refrigerate until ready

to use. The duck will keep for several weeks or longer if refrigerated.

Cured Salmon1 1/2 lb salmon fillet, skin on2 bunches fennel fronds, dill or parsley, roughly chopped1 Tbsp lightly crushed fennel seeds2 1/2 cups kosher salt2 1/2 cups sugar

Run your fingers over the salmon flesh to ensure there are no pin bones. If bones arepresent, remove with tweezers. In a medium-sized bowl add the salt, sugar, fennelfronds and seeds and mix until well combined.Place half the sugar/salt mixture in the bottom of a wide, shallow container. (The

salmon will release plenty of liquid, so make sure your container will accommodatethe extra fluid.) Nestle the salmon in themixture and completely cover it with the bal-ance of the mixture.Cover the top of the mixture with plastic wrap then place a small cutting board or

plate on top of the plastic wrap.Weight it downwith 2-3 cans or other suitable objectsweighing approximately 2-3 pounds. Refrigerate for 24 hours. Remove the salmonfrom the salt/sugar mixture, rinse thoroughly and pat completely dry with paper tow-els.Slice as thinly as possible and serve with fresh lemon, capers, thinly sliced shal-

lots, fresh dill and freshly ground pepper.

Sheri P.INTERIOR DESIGN CONSULTANT

» Residential & Commercial interiors» Space planning » Colour consultation

» Custom kitchen design

Sheri Peterson4204 Keewatin Place

Victoria BC V8X 4L1 Tel: 250-388-6167 Fax: 250-388-6069

Email: [email protected]: www.sheripinteriordesign.com

I R DNTERIOR ESIGN C

» esidential & CommRResidential & Commer» pace planning S » Col

C ANTTTANTONSULLT

cial interiorsmerour consultationp p g

» ustom kitcheC

reeti PrShenitawee4204 K

C V8ia BroictV:elTTe 250-388-6167 xaF

:ilamE p@sriesh:eebsitWWebsit etnpirie.shwwww.sh

en design

nrsoeacln P

8X 4L1: 250-388-6069

a.cww.aawshm.cogndesirrioe

Bird’s Eye Cove Farm

[email protected]

Registered Highland CattleGrass Fed Beef

Sold by the Quarter

2 boneless duck breasts, approximately 1 pound2 cups kosher salt, plus more if needed1/2 tsp freshly ground white pepperCheesecloth and kitchen string

oven-safeuck pieces

tender andoven occa-the oven is

fat can be

o crisp thes at 325°F.s Meats inck fat.

Slaters First Class Meats2577 Cadboro Bay Rd, Victoria250-592-0823Oyama Sausage CompanyGranville Island Public Market, Vancouver604-327-7407

N a n a i m o


The Buzz

Restaurant

Where Food is Art

For menu and online reservations visit restaurantmatisse.com Open at 5:30 Wed-Sun

250-480-0883512 Yates St Victoria

Awarded Four Stars from Mobil Exxon 10 years in a row

HAUTE CUISINE 1210 BROAD ST., VICTORIA, BC 250.388.9906

B R O T T F O R M S B R O T T F O R M S B R O T T F O R M SB

RO

TT

FO

RM

SB

RO

TT

FO

RM

S BR

OT

TF

OR

MS

BR

OT

TF

OR

MS

Hand woven bread mold made of cane, brotform, also known asbrotformen or banneton, is used to form and shape artisan loavesduring the proofing/raising stage.

Find something delicious for your Valentine at

an eclectic emporium of culinary goods

SOMA chocolates Roly Poly PiesOyster Man Oysters Tea Farm TeasRendezvous Patisserie Macarons Truffles by Pearl Chocolates

1034 Fort Street | 250·380·7654 | www.culinarygoods.ca

..

Valentine our omething

atentine delicious

41034 teet | 250t | 250rt StrFo

Pearl by Patisserie us

TOysters nRoly ocolates

of emporium

0380 wwww y.culinarygoods.cayww7654 |·0·50

..

ChocolatesMacarons ie

TeasFarm Tea PiesPoly oly

goodsculinary

ygoods.ca


Zambri’s, Habit, Yasser’s falafel, PIG.

JANUARY | FEBRUARY

TOFINOi|vàÉÜ|tVANCOUVERTHE COMOX VALLEY

OkanaganVICTORIA - It really is a New Year – take a look at all the new things happening around town.First on the list, the Island Chefs Collaborative welcomes a new president, Dwane MacIsaac.Chef Dwane is a Red Seal certified Chef who has over twenty years experience working pas-sionately in the food and catering industry. In addition to taking the helm at the ICC, Chef Dwaneruns Passioneat Foods Catering. (www.passioneatfoods.com). La Piola is shifting gears with anew chef, Jolyon Ade, a classically French trained chef fromManchester. Together with the neigh-bouring Italian Bakery, they will be expanding their retail sales area, selling fresh pastas, sauces,gnocchi, cured meats and imported as well as local cheeses.Smoken Bones Cookshack has also announced that John E. Brooks has assumed the posi-

tion of Chef at the restaurant. John brings experience from the Royal Colwood Golf Club andCamille’s. With a passion for the art of charcuterie and BBQ, John will be a perfect fit forSmoken Bones. The Cookshack will launch their new menu on February 4th, with the addition ofclassic diner style burgers and many more southern influenced items.In the sweets department, The Uptown mall is now home to a new candy shop: Candy Cures

(www.candycures.com), and a new location for the Canadian-owned frozen yogurt business,Qoola. (www.qoola.com) And the countdown is on for Victoria’s newest cooking school, TheLondon Chef, set to open this February. Chef Dan Hayes has been teaching classes around Vic-toria for the past two years, but is now launching, together with his wife and business his very ownestablishment, complete with interactive cooking station, a private dining room, a café and apantryFile under “heard through grapevine”: word on the street is that a new sushi restaurant is poised

to fill the gap left in Fernwood Square when Lucy’s in the Square closed, though there were nomore details available on this particular venture at press time. Likewise (you didn’t hear this fromme), rumor has it that Cory Pelan (formerly of La Piola) has partnered with a butcher and isplanning to open a head-to-tail operation offering charcuterie and house made sausages. Keepyour fingers crossed. Ditto for the possibility of a new Red Fish Blue Fish location opening at Dock-side Green. Popular butcher shop Ronald Orr & Sons Family Butchers has acquired a secondlocation on Quadra just above MacKenzie.Finally, congratulations to the Victoria-area winners for making it into the Enroute Magazine list

of “Top 10 New Restaurants In Canada: Stone Soup Inn (#5), The Edge (#8). [EAT editorGaryHynes was part of the cross-country panel that tabled the contenders for Canada’s Best NewRestaurants] —By Rebecca Baugniet

NANAIMO - As we wind down from the excitement and indulgence of the Holiday Season I don’tsee any reason to give up the comfort and joy of great food. Fortunately for us mid-islanders thereare many new possibilities to help us through the darker months of winter. Recently opened inNanaimo’s north end is Urbana Pizza. This cozy bistro is the latest endeavour of Darren Kiedykof Urban Beet and serves up delicious thin-crusted pizza out of a traditional stone-oven. Top-pings include many local ingredients that are brought together to create traditional and some won-derfully creative combinations. If you close your eyes and take a bite you may just feel like you’vebeen transported to the Riviera somewhere near the border of France and Italy. They also offer

their menu for585-1851. Hoground that inKulai now fulfBBQ on the corejoicing on ptic smokehousorgesbbq.comNew facad

away dinnersmercial Streethave savourylunch being pmoderncafe.camanovik to thbrunch menu aBistro and Ppassion for loprime waterfrohouse team wber, as well aconnect with lkeep an eye oA growing n

their winemakevenings are sturning up in sgin Longwootirement. FormCafé, Jeff is insonal dining ejbrandt@originArtisan Deli w

o


TAKE-OUT GOURMET DINNERS • SPECIALTY COFFEES • HORS D’OEUVRES • PLATTERS TO GODELICIOUS SOUPS • SALAD BAR • DELI SANDWICHES • WONDERFUL DESSERTS • SMOOTHIES

Experience Nanaimo’s Best Gourmet Deli

6560 Metral Drive, Nanaimo

[email protected]

6560 Metral Drive, Nanaimo

[email protected]

zz

the next page

Cont’d at the bottom of page 37

Ü|tRLEY

around town.ne MacIsaac.working pas-, Chef Dwaneg gears with awith the neigh-pastas, sauces,

umed the posi-Golf Club andperfect fit forhe addition of

Candy Curesgurt business,g school, Thees around Vic-s his very owna café and a

urant is poisedthere were nohear this frombutcher and isausages. Keepening at Dock-ired a second

Magazine listAT editorGarya’s Best New

Season I don’tslanders therently opened inarren Kiedykone-oven. Top-nd some won-eel like you’vehey also offer

their menu for take out and are openWed. to Sun. from 4pm to 10pm. 6304-4 Dover Road, 250-585-1851. How about an indoor BBQ to feign off the winter blues! With a professional back-ground that includes the Four Season’s Vancouver and VIU’s Culinary School, ChefGeorgeKulai now fulfills his passion for creating slow cooked, smoky masterpieces at Smokin’ George’sBBQ on the corner of Mostar and Boban Roads. Since it’s opening in the fall, carnivores have beenrejoicing on pulled pork, succulent ribs and hearty beef brisket all prepared in George’s authen-tic smokehouse. Open for lunch and dinner there’s also a great take-out menu. www.smokinge-orgesbbq.comNew facades, faces and menus are aplenty in downtown Nanaimo. Fresh lunches and take-

away dinners made from scratch are the specialty at the new 2 Chef’s Affair eatery on Com-mercial Street. This isn’t just any ma and pa operation. Chefs Daniel Caron and Tammy Delinehave savoury and sweet covered in their open-kitchen concept eatery. Here you can watch yourlunch being prepared and are encouraged to ask all about it. The Modern Café’s (www.the-moderncafe.ca) new owners Scott Cooper and Bryan Rotier recently welcomed Chef Paul Dok-manovik to their kitchen. It didn’t take Chef Paul too long to wow the locals with his new gourmetbrunch menu and the dinner menu has been updated with a stronger local focus. The LighthouseBistro and Pub’s new GM Kevin Ward hails from the bountiful English Midlands, bringing apassion for local, sustainable foodstuffs. An updated menu focuses on local seafood to fit theirprime waterfront locale on the Nanaimo Harbour walkway. Chef Jason Harbo and the Light-house team were recently awarded “Best Seafood Dish” at the Bite of Nanaimo event in Octo-ber, as well as second place for Best Use of Local Ingredients. With their on-going mission toconnect with local food and drink producers, this seems to be a spot Island locavores will want tokeep an eye on. www.lighthouse-bistro.comA growing number of small group dinner events are giving some of Nanaimo’s top chefs and

their winemaking accomplices the opportunity to put their best creative foot forward. Theseevenings are seasonally delicious, communal, entertaining and educational. Moreover, they areturning up in some surprising places! An evening hosted by Executive Chef Jeffrey Brandt atOri-gin Longwood could have even the most dedicated workaholics looking for shortcuts to early re-tirement. Formerly of the Okanagan’s Toasted OakWinebar and Grill and theWesley StreetCafé, Jeff is inspired by seasonality and freshness and offers 20 seats at his table for a more per-sonal dining experience. For inquiries about the Jan. 20th and future dinners, contact Jeff [email protected] or (250) 751-7755. Even more intimate is the dining room atMarkTArtisan Deli where Ryan Zuvich has 12 seats at his monthly seasonal dinners. MarkT took first

The winter dculinary expesome authenestablishmenIf you lean

and house sproducing ovwaters of Bayraw to bakedIf your tast

Island bisoneasy going aThe Comox

Chefs drawinMany of thesthe Comox VaThe culture

region is onelocal restaurcomplimenteThe Comox

Canada – wit

Taste theAtlas Cafe wLocals www.Hot ChocolatNetkenic Tea

Discover WBeaufort VineBlue MoonWCoastal BlackMiddle MounShelter PointSurgenor Bre

Places to SMount WashiKingfisher OcCrown Isle ReOld House VilHoliday Inn ETravelodge CoBest WesternComox ValleyPort AugustaPeak AccommComox Valley

Winter FunIn the Comoxknee-deep snThe Comox

scenic ride ospectacularStrathcona PevenMt. Baktrails and glafreeskiers caoutdoor wintAfter an ex

celebrated re

For more infodiscovercom


364 8th Street, unit C, CourtenayOpen Tuesday thru Saturday, 11-9pm

250-338-6493Reservations Recommended

localscomoxvalley.com

Fresh • Local • Seasonal

"Winner of Comox ValleyYummiest

Restaurant Award2009 & 2010."

TastA Special Pro

The winter doesn’t dampen the Comox Valley’s ability to serve up some of the bestculinary experiences on Vancouver Island.Whether you crave an elegant candle-lit dinner,some authentic fresh sushi, or a casual family meal, the Comox Valley has an eatingestablishment to suit every taste and budget.If you lean more towards ‘surf’, don’t miss the shellfish presented on daily fresh sheets

and house specialities in the region. The Comox Valley is the oyster capital of Canada,producing over 50% of all BC’s shellfish from the nutrient rich and clean surroundingwaters of Baynes Sound. The diversity of mussels, clams and oysters can be enjoyed fromraw to baked and everything in between at numerous eateries.If your tastes are less ‘surf’ and more ‘turf’, locally raised pork, chicken, and Vancouver

Island bison are prominently featured in the region – even on speciality pizzas for thoseeasy going après ski nights.The Comox Valley has garnered itself a culinary name thanks to the depth of recognized

Chefs drawing from the surrounding bounty of the region to design their signature dishes.Many of these Chefs have incorporated the bounty from the massive active farmland ofthe Comox Valley which produces everything you need for year round eating.The culture of food, eating and living sustainably is evident from farm to fork, and the

region is one of the rare places that boasts a year round Farmers’ Market. As such, manylocal restaurants emphasize food grown nearby in their menus and daily specials. Allcomplimented with made-in-the-valley beer, wine, fruit wine, vodka and soon, whiskey!The Comox Valley was recently named one of the top 8 agricultural destinations in

Canada – within a moment of arriving and jumping into the culinary scene– it’s clear why.

Taste the Comox ValleyAtlas Cafe www.atlascafe.caLocals www.localscomoxvalley.comHot Chocolates www.hotchocolates.caNetkenic Tea Centre www.teacentre.ca

Discover Wine, Beer and MoreBeaufort Vineyard and Estate Winery www.beaufortwines.caBlue MoonWinery www.bluemoonwinery.caCoastal Black Estate Winery www.coastalblack.caMiddle Mountain Mead www.middlemountainmead.comShelter Point Distillery www.shelterpointdistillery.comSurgenor Brewing Company www.surgenorbrewing.ca

Places to Stay:Mount Washington Alpine Resort www.mountwashington.caKingfisher Oceanside Resort & Spa www.kingfisherspa.comCrown Isle Resort and Golf Community www.crownisle.comOld House Village Hotel & Spa www.oldhousevillage.comHoliday Inn Express & Suites [email protected] Courtenay www.travelodgecourtenay.comBest Western Plus, TheWesterly Hotel & Conference Centre www.thewesterlyhotel.caComox Valley Inn & Suites www.comoxvalleyinn.comPort Augusta Inn www.portaugustainn.comPeak Accommodations www.peakaccom.comComox Valley Bed & Breakfast Association www.comoxvalleybb.com

Winter Fun Only Found in the Comox Valley:In the Comox Valley – you can have it all; endless foodie experiences, seaside vistas orknee-deep snow play at Mount Washington.The Comox Valley’s Mount Washington is a top Island winter destination. Enjoy the

scenic ride on the Eagle chairlift to the summit (1588 m elevation) and take in thespectacular alpine to ocean surroundings. The panoramic view from the top includesStrathcona Provincial Park, the Comox Glacier, Mt. Arrowsmith, the Strait of Georgia andevenMt. Baker on a clear day. Its all downhill from there; MountWashington boast over 60trails and gladed ski area that offer varied terrain that everyone from beginner to profreeskiers can ride. Snowshoeing, tubing and nordic cross country trails round out theoutdoor winter fun offered here.After an exhilarating time on the mountain, head down into the to visit one of the many

celebrated restaurants that never stops serving local!

For more information about this dynamic culinary destination visitdiscovercomoxvalley.com


Taste the Comox ValleyA Special Promotion

COMOX VALLEY - It's old news that The Old House Restaurant(www.oldhouserestaurant.ca) is now "new" again. After last year's fire the place wentdormant and it was a bit of a pleasant surprise when local Jeff Lucas stepped in as the newowner and manager. He's hired a young and ambitious chef in ChanceWilke, fresh in townafter 6 years with theOak BayMarine Group. A recent luncheon experience was all good andI'll be reporting on dinner soon.Chef Andrew Stignant is reformatting the Silverado West Coast Grill menu to include a

$30 three course offering and Timber Room Pub menus featuring local pulled porkmuffaletta, Angus shortrib poorboy & hand-rolled dim sum from Royston (250-703-5050).The winter will also see amonthly Chef'sWine PairingMenu featuring local food andwine.

Union Street Grill & Grotto (www.unionstreetgrill.ca) developed an Asian-fusion thing inrecent months – Indian Fried Veggie Pakoras, Udon Bowl, Thai Stirfry Bowl and Curry Bowl,as well introducing house-smoked bratwurst, crispy fish tacos, and much more. The bignews, says chef Mark Duncan, is the 2 page gluten-free menu and more choices for theceliac and gluten-intolerant market.The fall saw Tita's Mexican Restaurant (250-334-8033) doing great things with a regular

weekly schedule of daily specials (the $10 lamb burrito on Tues is now a fave) and drinks.The good news is that they're extending this schedule into February. Chef Steve Dodd andcompany just celebrated their 3 year anniversary at Bisque (www.bisquerestaurant.ca).Reasons for success? Partner Maralee says it's due to items like the Shiraz-braised bisionshort ribs and the lamb sirloin. Or is it the free range Coq au vin?As I write this our area is in the grip of an unusually cold snap and I'm thinking dinner at

Thai Village Restaurant (www.thaivillagerestaurant.com) is in order, particularly becauseof what I've heard about their spicy Thai noodle soup specials. "Soups to warm your soulthrough winter," is what owner Neil Mckenzie calls them. Sounds good to me. Connie atAtlas Café (250-338-9838) is singing the praises of… a burger? Yup. "The Half Pound Burgeris becoming a fast favourite: brandy poached pear, local brie cheese and crispy bacon...worth checking out!". Connie also notes that while Atlas is closed for its annual holidays Jan17-26, this is "a great time to sample some of the delicious winter fare at sister restaurantAvenue Bistro in Comox"(www.avenuebistro.ca). I like the $10 Thursday pasta/pizzaspecials, and I love the weekend brunches. I may, however, be tempted by the Braised BeefShort Ribs..."with bacon, carrots, potatoes, mushrooms and shallots or the classic bistrofavourite, moules frites: bouillaibaisse style fresh island mussels with aioli and fries."I also like what's happening at TOTO in Comox (250 941-TOTO). Chef Andrew is a lively

presence, the food is tasty, they've got celiac options, and they're engaged with thecommunity. Watch for a a gala dinner to support Therapeutic Riding. TOTO is now alsoanother EATMagazine pick-up location. The Purple Onion Deli (www.purpleoniondeli.com)is a new deli in the heart of Comox. The plan is to feature Island foods as well as Rosa'sdelicious tamales and salsas (made famous at the Comox Valley Farmers Market).Up the road in Campbell River it's pretty quiet this time of year, yet I’m drawn to make a

return trip to the cozy dining room tucked into the trees overlooking Discovery Passage atThe Anglers' Dining Room (at Dolphins Resort www.dolphinsresort.com). A new menu isposted online, and monthly wine pairing dinners will be starting in February. My onlydining experience here confirms the rumour we'd heard, that this was Campbell River's"hidden jewel" when it comes to fine dining. On amore casual note, I've heard good reportsabout the "fantastic clam chowder!" coming out of Ripple Rock Pub(www.ripplerock.ezabu.com) "Great seafoodmenu and it's all local." If you live in CampbellRiver you already know about and appreciate what Michelle and Mark do at Cheddar &Co.(www.cheddarandco.com). This self-styled "cool and funky specialty food store" indowntown Campbell River. If you don't know, then this visual and gastronomic delight isdefinitely worth a visit.—by Hans Peter Meyer

place for Best Use of Local Ingredients at Bite of Nanaimo. www.marktartisandeli.com. TheWes-ley Street Café continues to please wine aficionados at their monthly wine-tasting dinner eventson the last Friday of each month. www.wesleycafe.com. For those very serious about gastronomyand the art of fine dining the Nanaimo Chapter of the Chaine de Rotisseurs carries out cen-turies old culinary tradition in a variety of events throughout the year. For membership informationgo to www.chainevictoria.com and look for the “Bailliage de Nanaimo” link.Alberni Valley has recently been awarded the title of “Ultimate Fishing Town” by the World

Fishing Network. To celebrate the community has adopted an official Alberni Valley SignatureSalmon dish. The dish was created by Gail McCully of Metropolitan Chef Fish Rub fame(www.themetropolitanchef.com) and is now on the menu in the Rim Rock dining room.Finally, congratulations to The Stone Soup Inn of Cowichan Lake for making Enroute Maga-

zine list of “Top 10 New Restaurants In Canada. www.stonesoupinn.ca —by Karma Brophy

NANAIMO cont’d from page 35



VANCOUVER - Happy New Year, readers. May 2011 be good to you and for you. If “good foryou” tops your resolution list, you might want to start with breakfast at Rocky MountainFlatbread Company. Veggie/fruit cocktails (sans alcohol of course!) whir away in the blender;crackly wood-oven baked flabreads brim with whipped organic eggs, veggies and/or sausage;omelettes are thick and fluffy. Oohh! And the wild boar bacon. One frosty morning I began witha cucumber, celery, carrot concoction--a kiss of summer in winter, then went for the “market” brekkiepizza—topped with a medley of kale, squash and other seasonal veggies. Coupled with fair tradedark roast coffee, piping hot it was the perfect kick-start to the day.Were you fortunate to avoid a tight belt and a tight budget over the holiday? Are you bitter about

beer? Then hop to your nearest booze emporium for Central City’s Red Racer IPA, ($12 a 6pkat the BCLDB)? BrewmasterGary Lohn brews a bittered beer with lovely floral notes and a long,long finish. This is Yakima hops at their best. By the time you read this Russell Brewing ESB shouldhave rolled out their newest brew in bottle. This English-style bitter smacks of Willamette andCascade hops. Sharp on the mid-palate this lovely drop gives way to a creamy yet crisp finish. Atthe time of writing Russell ESB was available in cask occasionally, (Whip, Alibi Room andRailway Club) and on draft at the new London Pub at Main & Georgia. Easier to find isRussell’s wintry Wee Angry Scotch Ale, a smooth dark beer, and IP ‘eh, also suitably hopped.These brews demand for hearty stews and grilled ribs. Grilled you say? In January? Brian

Misko, creator ofHouse of Q BBQ sauces, grills year round. Sporting warm, rainproof jacket andminer’s style headlamp he braves the elements massaging ribs first with a dry rub then generouslywith his mustard based Slow Smoke Gold Sauce and Slather. I stood happier than a gumboot bootin a puddle over the Weber kettle, rubbing Misko’s Apple Butter BBQ Sauce on a pork loin. I wasdownright delighted after tucking into the smoky sweet pork served on a bed of caramelizedOkanagan Fuji’s and red onions. Backyard squash and maple custard courtesy of our west coastbigleaf maple syrup offered a superb top-note. (For your bottle of syrup head to the BigleafMaple Syrup Festival Saturday, February 5th, 2011 at the BC Forest Discovery Centre,Duncan. Incidentally Misko markets, too, a zippy Sugar and Spice Sauce and House Rub—wonderful for beef or game, and what else? Bacon. (Rubs available at Edible BC on GranvilleIsland--$9/12-oz jar.)I was thrilled to see that Horizons [restaurant] is back on top--of Burnaby Mountain. I write this

as the renovated restaurant, devasted from a fire, is serving its first dinner since the blaze. Snowis also on the horizon so my visit will have to wait. We’ll have more on the restaurant next time.—by Julie Pegg

THE OKANAGAN - Happy New Year EAT’ers! 2011 thankfully continues to bring growth to ourOkanagan food scene. Kelowna recently welcomed their very first Korean restaurant. The first in theOK Valley, Soban Korean Bistro on Bernard Avenue, is a delicious addition to our current ethniceatery choices. The Chef/Owner Daehon Song along with his wife Heesun, have created a hip,stylish room that excludes warmth and serenity. The Songs moved here from Seoul just two years ago

We stock more than 18,000 hard-to-find gourmet food items and culinary wanna haves. Utensils, pots, gadgets, unique bakeware and so much more.

Without question… the most excitingfood store to explore!

1340 East Hastings Street, Vancouver, bchours: Mon–Sat 10–6; Sun 10–5tel : 604-253-3022www.gourmetwarehouse.ca

AFFOR DA B L E GOURM E T L U X U R I E S


and are offerBulgogi with stacos. The kitcmonday to satannouncemenhis high tech kgained a seriothe Kelownaever breakfastand using thelar food line th

Downtown Krant line-up. PaCheese as wepizza joint. Apfree dishes andfolks seem to hedtomatopizza

Ecocentrics wKillingsworthrecycled woolmom and popnew décor in t250 861-3010while now. Wocome winter e

TOFINO/UCLgot to tell evering and drinkin

First, someClayoquot OMermaid’s Badancer Jett MaAngels, theOthe weekend,Monk winerieof the first everlafawi and Iaat the gala.

A recent c(www.sobo.caForty-five peofollowed by aelementary schteach childrenGuild news, aMay, 2011 lebeginning of Ming local specculinary eventservice for toucoast culinaryLong Beach

for locals Dec.dees made doon education afor the regionThe Wicka

www.wickinn.csounds like Paindoor versionof January, soand running fo

tel 1.800.333.4604 www.wickinn.com

IS THAT LOVE IN THE AIR? OR COULD IT BE THE SALMON?

You both will simply love it at the Wickaninnish Inn. Call us toll free today for unforgettable Valentines/Gourmet packages.


u. If “good forky Mountainn the blender;d/or sausage;g I began witharket” brekkiewith fair trade

ou bitter aboutA, ($12 a 6pkes and a long,ng ESB should

Willamette andcrisp finish. Atbi Room andsier to find isbly hopped.nuary? Brianoof jacket anden generouslygumboot bootork loin. I wasf caramelizedour west coasto the Bigleafovery Centre,House Rub—

C on Granville

ain. I write thise blaze. Snowant next time.

growth to ourThe first in thecurrent ethniccreated a hip,two years ago

the next page

bistro

marinainn

sail dine relax

250 924 1110877 860 6866

and are offering a menu that combines traditional Korean favorites, like Bibimbop (b-bop) andBulgogi with some modern fusion style dishes like new Vancouver street food truck favorite Koreantacos. The kitchen is MSG and preservative free. 530 Bernard Avenue, (778) 478-9638 openmonday to saturday 11:30am-2:30 pm, 4:30 pm-8:30 pm. Other exciting news on the street is theannouncement that Chef Neil Schroeter, owner/operator of Okanagan Street Food, is parkinghis high tech kitchen truck and opening his own digs in Kelowna’s industrial area. Schroeter, whogained a serious cult following with his gourmet cuisine that miraculously emerges out of his truck atthe Kelowna Farmer’s Market, has decided to expand. He will be offering breakfast (think bestever breakfast burritos etc.) and lunch (think best ever fish tacos etc.) in the former Blue Jay Café,and using the rest of the space for his expanded catering business and as a storefront for his popu-lar food line that includes pastas, soups, crackers, blackberry ketchup. www.okanaganstreetfood.com

Downtown Kelowna also welcomes the Twisted Tomato to our much-needed independent restau-rant line-up. Packing the house with locals, offerings include a rapturous eight types of Mac andCheese as well as the largest pizza available in Kelowna at 16”. Obviously, this ain’t no ordinarypizza joint. Appealing to all genres, they have a kids menu, a large selection of veggie and glutenfree dishes and are a friendly, fun atmosphere.Hot tickets in Trail, Nelson and Grand Forks – thesefolks seem to have created a recipe for success. (250) 868-8947, 371 Bernard Avenue www.twist-edtomatopizza.com

Ecocentrics will adore the new wine bags created by local duo, Debbie Kunitski and StephanieKillingsworth. Known as Ecosheep, these ladies have created the coolest bags made from 100%recycled wool, using secondhand sweaters etc. to craft their magic. www.ecosheep.com. Favoritemom and pop style Pho shop, Hoang Gia, has recently reopened after closing for a makeover. Thenew décor in this Vietnamese restaurant is much hipper and is now busier than ever. 2469 Hwy. 97,250 861-3010. The glamourous Sparkling Hills Resort in Vernon has been up and running for awhile now. Word is that Chef Ross Derrick is a culinary dynamo. Eat, spa and stay sounds like a wel-come winter escape to me. www.sparklinghill.com/dining —by Jennifer Schell-Pigott

TOFINO/UCLULET - This is normally considered the off-season on the west coast but someone for-got to tell everyone braving Sutton Pass to experience storm season, not to mention the great eat-ing and drinking to be had on this side of the island.

First, some 8,160 oysters were shucked and consumed over the three-day 14th annualClayoquot Oyster Festival Nov. 19-21. Some 600 oyster lovers sold out the two main events, theMermaid’s Ball and the Oyster Gala. The Mermaid’s Ball, a local favourite, featured burlesquedancer Jett Majique and the Banana Fish Dance Orchestra, as well as oysters courtesy of the BeachAngels, theOut Landish Shellfish Guild andMarc’s Oysters. Phillips Brewery was on hand forthe weekend, as were Stag’s Hollow, Cedar Creek, Prospect Winery, White Bear and GrayMonk wineries. Organizers of the Oyster Gala eschewed its traditional competition format in favourof the first ever “Clayoquot Rules” oyster shucking contest. Congratulations to the winners Ali El-Kha-lafawi and Ian Mowat. Twelve restaurants and food purveyors offered up samplings to the crowdat the gala.

A recent cooking class and multi-course dinner with Vikram Vij at SoBo Restaurant(www.sobo.ca) raised $1,100 for the gourmet food program at Wickaninnish Community School.Forty-five people attended the evening Oct. 18, which included a session in the kitchen with Vijfollowed by a five-course dinner with wines donated by JoieFarm and Blue Mountain. Theelementary school cooking classes, sponsored by the Tofino-Ucluelet Culinary Guild (www.tucg.ca)teach children from ages five to ten how to prepare fresh recipes from scratch. (www.vijs.ca. In otherGuild news, a type of dine around event (name yet to be decided) is in the works for the month ofMay, 2011 leading up to the Tofino Food and Wine Festival June 3-5. Starting around thebeginning of May, participating restaurants in Ucluelet and Tofino will offer prix fixe menus featur-ing local specialties such as oysters, crab, salmon and spot prawns. Each weekend, a differentculinary event will look at each of these ingredients in more depth. The plan is to have a shuttleservice for tourists and locals alike throughout the month. Watch for more details about the westcoast culinary month in the March/April edition of Tofino Buzz and visit www.tucg.ca.Long Beach Lodge Resort (www.longbeachlodgeresort.com) hosted its 2nd annual open house

for locals Dec. 5. In lieu of paying for a fun-filled evening with live music from Wunderbread, atten-dees made donations to the Raincoast Education Society at the door. The local non-profit focuseson education and community stewardship as a way to ensure an environmentally sustainable futurefor the region (www.raincoasteducation.org).The Wickaninnish Inn is offering storm-watching specials early in the new year, please visit

www.wickinn.com for more on seeing these spectacles first hand from North Chesterman Beach. Itsounds like Pastry Chef Matt Wilson’s new dessert menu might be the perfect compliment to theindoor version of this pastime. Some restaurants in the area take a well-deserved break in the monthof January, so be sure to call ahead if you’re making your way to the west coast. All are back upand running for Valentine’s Day. Happy storm season! —By Jen Dart

VOTE ATwww.EATmagazine.ca

Exceptional Eats!

SPARKLBerso WineSo it’s not maItalian, with s

Gosset GranA real stunnvintages comliberal splasChampagne nwith a yeasty

WHITE WChateau SteCall it luminoa deal! The nofruit flavours

Teruzzi & PuThis elegantfruit on the pone ask of aReichstrat VThis racy Riesan off-dry, lolittle Kabinetblitzkrieg theflavours andrecommende

RED WINKatnook FouLocated in thsoils and thewhat light-boflavours, soft

Orofino VineSitting on sixhub of the Sworld that Brand very drinNicely balancof fine-graine

Luis Felipe ECarmenere hand cool cleaplant a star wcherry and spbucks.

Domaine GayDomaine Gaykm southwesa smoky bergenerous fru

Azienda VirnIf you like Bawith the heftnot even recmysteries of fnose. Slightlyearthy fecund

Wente CharlAged for 20redolent withple texture,Delicious.


liqu

Love What We Do

Winter...cozy up.

www.hestercreek.com

ove What WL e Doe What WWe Do

.www hestercreek.com

For dinner out, a family gathering, home parties or kicking back at the cabin, Tinhorn Creek has the wines for the occasion. � Our vineyards are located on two unique and diverse south Okanagan sites: the Golden Mile and the Black Sage bench. Our ability to blend the grapes from these vineyards and capture the best characteristics of each site sets us apart. � Visit our spectacular estate winery in Oliver, BC and experience for yourself.

NATURALLY SOUTH OKANAGANwww.tinhorn.com

DRESSED UP &READY TO GO!

By now, almost everyone and his hungry dog has heardabout the summer street food debacle in Vancouver. Forthose who might have missed it, here’s a short recap.After years of culinary desertification at the hands of

Vancouver hot dog carts, the municipal government decidedto allow something other than pre-cooked wieners and pack-aged chips to grace our streets. Unfortunately, instead ofasking for applications from experienced—or at the veryleast, trained—individuals, a random ballot lottery systemwas created to award a measly 17 spaces. After the morethan 800 applications went through the barrel, the resultswere in—with just one problem. Most of the winners didn’thave carts (let alone trucks), equipment, Food Safe certifi-cation, approval from Coastal Health, or sound businessplans. And so, on the grand launch date, we had preciselyone truck open for business, and no, it wasn’t one of theoriginal license winners. It was a runner-up who had alreadybeen operating for several months at the Richmond summernight market. The edible outlook on the street was grim, tosay the least.Fast forward a few months, and the prospects are looking

pretty fine, thanks to some experienced restaurateurs andfood service types. The variety and quality currently on offeraround the downtown core is nothing short of spectacular.

And most of these newcomers are following the eco-friendlyroute, using biodegradable or recyclable containers and sus-tainable ingredients. From Asian street food to wild seafood,here’s a rundown on some of the best places to chow downwhile on the hoof.

Fresh Local WildPartners Josh Wolfe (former executive chef at Coast Restau-rant) and Andy Fielding (who got his start in the street foodbiz at 19 in San Francisco) have taken local dining down tothe masses, and it never tasted better. The emphasis onsustainable seafood and local and seasonal ingredientsmight sound high-end, but chanterelle poutine ($3), hot-smoked coho sandwiches ($8), venison burgers ($9) and alip-smacking oyster po-boy ($10) are only high-end in termsof comfort. And if you’re lucky, the boys might put out a boxof extra mushrooms from their foraging trips to QuadraIsland. Corner of Robson and Granville | Tuesday-Saturday,11 a.m. until supplies run out | www.freshlocalwild.com

Cartel TacoFrom James Iranzad, owner of Abigail’s Party, and chefs JoelWatanabe (Bao Bei, Araxi, La Brasserie) and Jesse Grasso(Bao Bei, La Taqueria, Sanafir) comes one of the coolestideas on the street: Korean tacos. Before your eyes cross,picture this: soft white corn tortillas, piled two by two, andtopped with pork or beef bulgogi. The latter is a popularKorean marinade made from soy, chili, sesame oil, brownsugar, and a few other tasty ingredients. The result is juicy,tender, flavourful meat with a light lick of heat at the tail endof your chew. The tortillas are topped with the meat, themeat is topped with the housemade kimchi, chopped onionand fresh cilantro. Did I mention the beef is PembertonMeadows and the pork is Fraser Valley Farms? Get one for$3, two for $5.75, or four for $10, and don’t forget extranapkins for all that drool. Burrard and Georgia | Monday-Fri,11 a.m.-3 p.m. | www.carteltaco.ca

Roaming DragonThis truck can, among other things, claim to be first out ofthe starting gate (yes, this is the aforementioned runner-upfrom the Richmond night market). But their real claim to fameis most definitely the pan-Asian street food so cunningly

designed by chef Don Letendre (Elixir) and marketed by“street smart” co-owners Jason Apple and Jory Simkin.Braised pork belly sliders on steamed mantou buns, Koreanshort rib tacos and fried rice balls are just a few of myfavourites. $6 per item, or three for $15. Use your sparechange for the basil-lychee lemonade. West Georgiabetween Thurlow and Burrard | Monday-Friday, 11 a.m.-2p.m. | www.roamingdragon.com

Re-Up BBQThe brainchild of Chester Carey, Michael Kaisaris andLindsay Ferguson, Re-Up has a shorter menu than its fellowstreet food purveyors (originally only one item), but that is noreflection on the quality of what they serve. The barbecuedpulled (organic and hormone-free) pork sandwich ($6) isscary in size and orgasmic in taste. Forget grabbing one forthe drive home, this is a definite two-fister, made even largerby the fresh, crunchy coleslaw that gets heaped on everybun. Plus there are the pork ribs ($2 each)—large, meaty andselling out fast. For an extra $3, try the homemade iced tea;the sweetness is in perfect balance with the tangy pork andcrunchy slaw.Hornby and Georgia | Monday-Saturday, 11:30a.m.-4:30 p.m. Granville andWest Broadway | Monday-Sat,11:30 a.m.- 5 p.m. www.reupbbq.com

Eli’s Serious SausageIt’s ironic that one of the newest—andmost delicious—cartsto open up is, technically speaking, a hot dog vendor, but,truly, the classification would be a “serious” misnomer. Let’sstart with the bread. It’s a toasted artisan caraway seed bun,baked daily, with amazing chewiness and a fabulous crust.As for the sausages, these are none other than D-Originals,hand-stuffed by a fifth-generation German sausage makerwho uses the freshest hormone-free and free-run porkers hecan find. The sausages ($6 each) are steamed on-site, thengrilled before your eyes, and are bursting with saliva-induc-ing juiciness and incredible flavour. Bratwurst topped with asweet red pepper relish took me back to my Iron Curtainhomeland, while a Greek variety, made with feta and toppedwith tsatziki, was good enough to come back for—severaltimes. And don’t forget the knishes ($2 each) from a localJewish deli. Dunsmuir and Beatty | Monday-Friday, 11 a.m.-4:30 p.m. | www.twitter.com/eateli

After a bumpy start, Vancouver’s street food scene is looking, and tasting, just fine.

ELITE STREET EATS —By Anya Levykh

Josh Wolfe + Chanterelle poutine

TraceyKusiew

icz

SPARKLING WINEBerso Wine Party Frizzante Italy $14.00-16.00So it’s not made from Prosecco but who really cares? It’s soft, fizzy and very fresh and veryItalian, with subtle citrus and floral aromas and a clean gentle finish.

Gosset Grande Reserve Brut NV Champagne $70.00-75.00A real stunner and long a personal favourite, the Grande Reserve is a blend of threevintages comprising Chardonnay (46%), Pinot Noir (39%) and Pinot Meunier (15%) with aliberal splash of reserve wines (15%) thrown in for good measure. One of the very fewChampagne not to be put throughmalolactic fermentation, this delicious sparkler is creamywith a yeasty-citrus bouquet and a lovely balanced finish! Top-notch!

WHITE WINEChateau Ste Michelle Riesling 2008Washington $15.00-17.00Call it luminous perhaps even ethereal, call it what you will but I for one call it one heck ofa deal! The nose has great depth with heady floral and peach aromas. Off dry with brilliantfruit flavours and a touch of stony minerality to wrap it all up! Yeow.

Teruzzi & Puthod Vernaccia di San Gimignano 2009 Italy $23.00-25.00This elegant little white is pale yellow with light floral and apple notes on the nose, goodfruit on the palate, and a respectable amount of complexity in the finish. What more canone ask of a squeezed grape?Reichstrat Von Buhl Armand Riesling Kabinett 09 Germany $23.00-25.00This racy Riesling from the Pfalz will take your breath away. On paper it looks kind of puny;an off-dry, low alcohol German Riesling! What more need be said, but in the glass thislittle Kabinett is anything but. The nose delivers a one-two punch of fruit and petrol thatblitzkrieg their way through the palate and long finish. Slightly viscous with great fruitflavours and a jolt of mouth-watering acidity that really gets the juices flowing. Very highlyrecommended.

RED WINEKatnook Founder’s Block Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 Australia $21.00-23.00Located in the heart of the Coonawarra, an area equally famed for its prime Terra Rossasoils and the Cabernet Sauvignon that thrives upon it, this wine does not disappoint. Some-what light-bodied but most assuredly full-flavoured with attractive cassis and eucalyptusflavours, soft tannins and generous length.

Orofino Vineyards Pinot Noir 2008 Similkameen Valley $32.00-35.00Sitting on six acres of prime real estate on the outskirts of beautiful downtown Cawston,hub of the Similkameen Valley, Orofino is a winery to watch in the ever-expanding wineworld that British Columbia has become. Across the spectrum their wines are well madeand very drinkable. This elegant young pinot was a refreshing surprise at a resent tasting.Nicely balanced, with ripe cherry, earth and spice flavours, a soft silky texture and a blushof fine-grained tannins. Very highly recommended.

Luis Felipe Edwards Carmenere 2009 Chile $14.00-15.00Carmenere has found a home in the high-altitude vineyards of Chile. The warm sunny daysand cool clear evenings of the Chilean summer have conspired to make this French trans-plant a star with wine lovers across the planet. Generous and fleshy, with blackcurrant,cherry and spice flavours and a patina of fine-grained tannins. Not bad for under fifteenbucks.

Domaine Gayda Three Winds Syrah 2008 France $15.00-16.00Domaine Gayda is a new state of the art winery located in the foothills of the Pyrenees, 25km southwest of Carcassonne in the Languedoc region of France. It is very aromatic witha smoky berry fruit, spice and dusty mineral bouquet. Medium to full bodied withgenerous fruit flavours, soft tannins and subtle oak nuances.

Azienda Virna Borgogno Nebbiolo d’Alba 2007 Italy $32.00-35.00If you like Barolo then you will like this Nebbiolo. When first opened the wine was leanwith the heft of gripping tannins and high acidity, an hour in the decanter and you wouldnot even recognize it as coming from the same bottle! Mon Dieu, it is one of the greatmysteries of fine wine. Medium-bodied with nuances of strawberries, tar and violets on thenose. Slightly oily on the palate but very dry, with subtle floral flavours and a pronouncedearthy fecundity that fades gently through the long, firm finish.

Wente Charles Wetmore Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 California $32.00-35.00Aged for 20 months in an assortment of oak barrels, this lush California Cabernet isredolent with black cherry, chocolate and spice aromas. Medium to full bodied with a sup-ple texture, good weight, concentrated fruit flavours and a long silky smooth finish.Delicious.


liquid assets—by Larry Arnold

6 mileliquor.com

No Chill Charge

Premium Wine Tastings

12-8pm Daily

Over 3500 Wine, Beer or Spirits

Premium Scotch

Selection!

EVERYTHING AT LIQUOR

STORE PRICES

OR LOWER!

498 Old Island Highway phone 250 391 4458

athering, home p at the cabin, T wines for the o s are located on t outh Okanagan s the Black Sage

end the grapes f capture the best c e sets us apart.

state winery in O for yourself.

N H OKANAGANw w.tinhorn.com

UP &R O GO!

marketed byJory Simkin.buns, Koreana few of mye your spareest Georgiaay, 11 a.m.-2

Kaisaris andhan its fellowbut that is noe barbecueddwich ($6) isbbing one fore even largerped on everyge, meaty andade iced tea;ngy pork andturday, 11:30Monday-Sat,

icious—cartsvendor, but,snomer. Let’sway seed bun,bulous crust.n D-Originals,usage makerun porkers heon-site, thensaliva-induc-opped with aIron Curtaina and toppedfor—severalfrom a localiday, 11 a.m.-

just fine.


Before we had the many amazing flavour profiles available to us in the ever-growingnumber of styles of craft beer out there, the idea of ending a multi-course meal with a beerwould have been fairly absurd. After all, not many foods, other thanmaybe a hot dog or pizzapair particularly well with a watery pale lager, the predominant North American beer style formany decades. And a tin of lager certainly wouldn’t befit the conclusion of well-preparedhaute cuisine.Ah, how things have changed.Where wine (or some grape-derived variation, such as port,

sherry or cognac) has traditionally been the go-to beverage for desserts, cheese courses orjust post-prandial sipping, there are several widely available beer styles—including numer-ous examples made by local breweries—that actually pair equally well, if not better, in manyinstances. These are big, higher-alcohol beers (typically in the 8%-11+% ABV range) thatserve a different purpose than simply refreshing you on a hot day.Many of these are, in fact, released in the cooler winter months and are more about warm-

ing your insides than, say, quenching your thirst. “In winter time people tend to be insidemore and they want bigger, heavier beers,” notes Howe Sound head brewer, Franco Corno.Though Howe Sound makes a full array of beers, its late-winter seasonal, Pothole Filler, an“inky black” Russian Imperial Stout, has proven to be a very popular release during theequally darkmonths of the year. The Russian Imperial Stout style originated in England in the1800s and was brewed extra strong to withstand the travel to Russia. Corno describes it as,“even darker than a typical stout and we want [ours] to have a big roastiness to it and bigbody to it. It won’t be sweet like our oatmeal stout, but we don’t want to make it too dry likea typical Irish stout either, so it’s kind of in between.”Stylistically cool-month releases such as Russian Imperial Stouts, Barleywines and

Doppelbocks only really have on thing in common: a high alcohol level. Though they’re allmade with the same basic ingredients—water, barley, yeast and hops—the “recipes” differ

in such ways as to create distinct styles that each offer unique sipping experiences (andflavour profiles).

Here’s a more detailed description of each, along with some pairing suggestions.

Russian Imperial Stout: Think of this as a much brawnier version of typical stout. The “im-perial” part of name, basically indicates that it has higher alcohol content, andmost of thesewill be close to 10% ABV, with modest carbonation. They emphasize the wonderful richflavours of dark roasted malts, such as coffee, chocolate and a touch of smoke. Some areaged in bourbon barrels to add vanilla notes, as well. Hops is typically in the backgroundand there may be a bit of residual sweetness. Serve in a snifter at 55° F with chocolatedesserts (especially those with a berry component) for a truly great combination. Also terrificon its own, in lieu of a cup of coffee or espresso drink. Suggested local versions: PhillipsThe Hammer, Driftwood Singularity (out in late January),Howe Sound Pothole Filler (out inMarch).

Barleywine: As the name indicates, these are nearly wine-strength (usually 10% ABV),though they are, in fact, beers. You won’t necessarily see it indicated on the beer’s label, butthere are two predominant kinds of barleywines: English style, which has a sweeter, maltierprofile and West Coast style, which has a huge swack of aromatic hops and a lot more bit-terness. Both pair incredibly well with strong cheeses such as blue, sharp cheddar, gor-gonzola and limburger. Serve in a snifter at 55° F and enjoy the complex flavours that rangefrom sweet macerated fruits to burnt caramel, toffee and candied nuts. As for desserts, con-sider those that aren’t super-sweet such as cheesecake, flourless almond cake, dried figs,shortbread, dark chocolate or gingerbread. Or just savour the mutli-layered aromas and sipit like a fine cognac. Suggested local versions: Phillips Deadhead, Driftwood Old CellarDwellar, Central City Thor’s Hammer, which won Beer of the Year at the 2010 Canadian Brew-ing Awards last October.

Doppelbock: These tend to be slightly lower in alcohol (and more beer-like) than the abovetwo styles (which are ales), but they also share many characteristics. The bock style is, infact, a dark lager, so the flavours created by the yeast and the conditioning process are dif-ferent than ales. What’s similar is the higher alcohol (typically 8+% ABV) and the rich, sweetmalty flavours. Again, they pair remarkably well with cheeses, particularly buttery ones likebrie, gouda and havarti, but also earthier ones like camembert and fontina. As for desserts,anything with chocolate and/or nuts (on the not-super-sweet side) pairs well with the style’sround, robust malt profile. Suggested local versions: Phillips Instigator, Tree Captivator.

beer at the table —by Adem Tepedelen com

These bold and hefty, seasonal beers are a perfect match for end course at dinner.

Popular TV pand the floorThough the bGarden) washailed from VVictoria Spirithe Bar” ShaAs a judge,

alongside re(Vancouver-bbeverage colengthy writttasting. Thenjudges and tthis year wasdrink. The cothe end, Lurecoveted SoolBartending

time Delta Ocdesign, musito the eye anand you’ve thHis drink, C

Take crèmyou have

SolomanVeneto

www.strathliquor.com www.dontmissout.caAles Wines & Spirits from around the world value brands to classics

919 Douglas Street Victoria BC 250.370.WINE (9463)

Come & meet Lon Sheehanour Beer Expert!

Open 7 days 10 am to

11 pmdelivery on case orders

Chilled Wines & Beers

RUSSIANIMPERIALSTOUT,BARLEYWINE,DOPPELBOCK

IN THE HOUSE www.eatmagazine.ca/drink

Hester Creek Reserve Cabernet Franc 200740 year old vines, some of the oldest in the Okanagan, are used in this bottling, openingwith aromas of cherries, raspberries and cedar smoke. The palate is full and smooth, withnotes of anise, vanilla, savoury cherry, and earthy rusticity. A lingering spice on the finishis welcome. This would make a nice bottle with herbed Salt Spring lamb chop or spicedbison sausages.—TR

Road 13 Vineyards Viognier Riesling Sauvignon Blanc 2009Mouth filling and voluptuous Viognier (61%) is lifted with the acidity of Riesling (30%) andthe fruity refreshment of the Sauvignon Blanc (9%). Big ripe peach and grapefruit aromaslead to a juicy and full palate of exotic spice, orange, sweet stone fruit and tropical flavours.Bright acid persists, even though buffered by the oily Viognier. Try this with Asian or Indianthemed fare. Macadamia chicken with orange-ginger sauce would rock.—TR

Therapy Vineyards Super Ego 2007Opaque in the glass, the nose is big black fruit and smoke, with punchy flavours of plum,blackcurants, bramble, vanilla, anise and cassis. Decant it today with warming venison orbison, but if you can check your Superego for a couple of years and wait for the elementsto marry you’ll be rewarded.—TR


riences (and

ns.

out. The “im-most of theseonderful richke. Some arebackgroundth chocolaten. Also terrificons: PhillipsFiller (out in

y 10% ABV),er’s label, buteeter, maltierlot more bit-heddar, gor-rs that rangeesserts, con-ke, dried figs,omas and sipd Old Cellarnadian Brew-

an the aboveck style is, inocess are dif-e rich, sweetery ones likefor desserts,ith the style’sCaptivator.

competition—by Treve Ring

Popular TV personality Kevin Brauch, yes, the “Thirsty Traveler,” was in charge of the micand the floor for the second annual Best Bartender in the Pacific Northwest Competition.Though the battle for the title (part of October’s Art of the Cocktail event at Victoria’s CrystalGarden) was open to any bartender willing and able to compete, this year all competitorshailed from Victoria. Surprised? You shouldn’t be. Bars like Clive’s and Veneto, distillers likeVictoria Spirits and Maxwell James, and top-tier talent like Art of the Cocktail “Chairman ofthe Bar” Shawn Soole et al, have secured little Vic on the cocktail circuit.As a judge, I had a bird’s eye view of the competition. This wine girl was out of her element

alongside respected cocktail professionals like Ted Haigh (Dr. Cocktail), Joanne Sasvari(Vancouver-based cocktail and lifestyle writer) and Elayne Duke (head mixologist for globalbeverage company Diageo). The competitors started a few hours before I arrived, with alengthy written test on spirits, cocktails and mixology history, followed by a blind spiritstasting. Then it was show time for the seven competitors, crafting their cocktail in front of thejudges and the audience under a strict time limit of seven minutes. The theme ingredientthis year was coffee—a difficult element to work with when creating a unique and balanceddrink. The competition details (flames, flowers, fist pumps) are too many to list here, but inthe end, Lure’s senior bartender Dirk VanderWal was crowned victorious and awarded thecoveted Sooley Cup, a $250 prize and bragging rights as Best in the Pac Northwest.Bartending has become an art form, and it quickly became obvious that VanderWal, a long-

time Delta Ocean Pointe Resort employee, has a knack for the arts. A background in graphicdesign, music and photography lends itself well to creating winning cocktails it seems—bothto the eye and palate. Take that talent, marry it with a keen interest in classic craft cocktails,and you’ve the makings for success.His drink, Chaltai, was inspired by his preferred birthday cake—a chocolate chai cake (from

Starbucks, no less, and itself intrinsically Pacific NW). Chaltai is a Hindi slang word that means“it works” or “it's all good,” a nice nod to the east-meets-west nature of the drink, alongwith an allusion to the word chai.

I chatted up VanderWal—a very busy father of a newborn and a toddler—shortly after thebig win. Humble and modest, here is his take on ……the competition: “In my view, it was a more comprehensive competition than the usual

mix-off. Competitors had to demonstrate technical knowledge, historical knowledge andtheory in the written test, work our palates in the blind spirit tasting, and then exhibit ourdrink-making skills behind the bar while alternately romancing our creations to the judgesand making witty banter with our ever-charming emcee, Kevin Brauch.”…theVictoria-centric players: “I was a little surprised that only Victoria-based bartenders

signed up. There were a number of very talented mixologists from all over the region at thefestival. But Victoria has an amazing and inspiring cocktail scene going right now, so in away, it was nice to be exclusive. And the level of talent among the other competitors couldnot have been higher. My goal going in was just to do my best and take the opportunity torub shoulders with the best bartenders in the city; I really had no expectation of winning.So, when my name was announced, it was truly a surprise.”…the inspiration for the drink: “This drink highlights the east-meets-west multiculturalism

of the Pacific Northwest and simultaneously gives a nod to our location at the epicentre ofNorth American coffee culture.”…his final thoughts: “I’d like to thank the fantastic team at Lure for their support, the

entire team that made the Art of the Cocktail festival such a fun and informative event, andEAT magazine for putting on the competition.” Find Dirk’s Chaltai at EATmagazine.ca/drink

BEST BARTENDER IN THE PNW

Take crème de cacao, dark rum, espresso and house-made chai syrup andyou have a winning combo for Lure’s senior bartender Dirk VanderWal.

Soloman SiegelVeneto

Josh BoudreauVeneto

Katie McDonaldVeneto

Dirk VanderWalLure

Nate CaudleClive's

RebeccaWellm

an

BOCK

ng, openingmooth, withon the finishop or spiced

g (30%) andfruit aromascal flavours.an or Indian

urs of plum,g venison orhe elements

Missing - Nadia Hobbs, Fairmont Empress, Vincent Vanderheide, Canoe Brewpub

Widely beloved grape varieties like Pinot Noir and Cabernet Sauvignon constantly get thespotlight. Merlot has certainly had its day in the sun and Syrah is still the flavour du jour.Even Malbec, a more recent phenomenon, gets its fair share of attention. But what aboutGrenache? “What about who?” youmight ask. Despite being one of the world’s most plantedreds, Grenache still flies very much under the radar.Though not shy in character, Grenache has never taken centre stage. Instead it hides

behind appellation names like Côtes-du-Rhône and Châteauneuf-du-Pape. These two wineregions are well-known and loved by consumers, yet most wine drinkers don’t realize thatGrenache is the grape responsible for them. You may be in love with someone without evenrealizing it.At the world’s first Grenache Symposium last July, the grape was dubbed “the girl next

door.” She is always nearby but at first you don’t pay attention to her.Warm, welcoming andcomfortable to be around, you soon discover her charms. Grenache may not be a supermodel, but she’s no simple farm girl either. Whether sparkling, rosé, fortified and sweet or astill dry red, you can always count on Grenache for lush, voluptuous flavours of pureraspberries. Grenache is happiest in theMediterranean where it is dry, hot and sunny. A grapeafter our own hearts! It has no problem surviving arid conditions and requires long warmsummers to fully ripen and express the appealing aromas and flavours it is capable of.Grenache is very popular in France, thriving particularly in the southern Rhône region and

the main ingredient responsible for the internationally acclaimed wines of Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Here, Grenache typically dominates but can be blended with up to 12 different grapes.Syrah and Mourvèdre are usually its main partners of choice and they can add a masculineside to the wine. Expect a fuller and more robust expression of Grenache bursting withgarrigue (wild sun-baked herbs) and raspberries—a great match with roasted pork andturkey. For a less expensive and lighter version, opt for a Côtes-du-Rhône or Gigondas. Theyoffer a similar blend as well as plenty of great deals.In the southern France regions of Languedoc and Roussillon, Grenache has been deemed

a cépage améliorateur or improving variety. Indeed, along with Syrah and Mourvèdre, it hasbeen recommended and utilized to improve the overall quality of the regions’ wine. Well-priced with plenty of character, if slightly more rustic, these wines offer fantastic value. Trymaking a cassoulet; it’s the perfect match. Grenache from Roussillon will also satisfy yoursweet tooth. It plays the starring role in Banyuls, a fortified wine very similar to port but withextra charm. Chocolate, cassis and violet notes make Banyuls our favourite partner withintense chocolate cake.Grenache’s lot in neighbouring Spain is a different story. Known as Garnacha, it was long

considered little better than a weed and was relegated to making plonk. Hardly the place forthe grape’s attributes to shine. A combination of financial aid from the EU and a new gener-ation of winemakers is changing that. Producers such as René Barbier and Alvaro Palacioshave recognized the value of those beautiful old bush vines and have brought them back tolife. The region of Priorat is now the reference point for Garnacha in Spain and our neglectedwaif has a new lease on life. Brawny and powerful, it is a force to be reckoned with (so arethe prices but they can be worth it), demanding something fuller like grilled redmeat to standup to it.Priorat’s success has influenced other regions throughout Spain to follow in its footsteps.

It has also pushed established regions to reach new heights, such as Rioja and Navarra wherethe style is friendlier and immediately drinkable. Perhaps the grape’s most affable expressionthough is as a dry rosado. Full, fruity, bold and sassy, it can be the life of the party, especiallywhen tapas are being served. If you’re really lucky, youmight even find a sparkling rosé fromthe region of Cataluña.Grenache’s reach in Europe spreads all the way to Italy. Hundreds of years ago, when the

island of Sardinia was under the Aragon rule, Grenache was planted all over the island. Onceagain, it went by a different name: Cannonau. Along with the new moniker, Grenache alsoadopted a wilder side. Earthy, rustic and potent, this Sardinian incarnation is perhaps a crossbetween southern France and Spanish examples. Grilled herb notes are definitely pro-nounced, a classic with the island’s local suckling pig.Far from being a homebody, Grenache is a successful globetrotter and has ventured out-

side Europe, finding hospitable new homes in various New World regions. Brought over to

Australia more than a hundred years ago, Grenache has long been responsible for many ofthat country’s stunning and lusciously sweet fortified wines. Back in the 1960s, it wasAustralia’s most planted grape. Since then, changes in trends have seen it superseded byShiraz and more recently by our well-known friend Cabernet Sauvignon. Luckily there is ahandful of Aussie producers who have fallen for the grape’s winsome ways and championedits cause. Yalumba’s 100 percent Grenache made from treasured old bush vine is a fantasticexample of Grenache’s potential. The popular Rhône combination of Grenache, Syrah andMourvèdre has also inspired many Australian winemakers. Delicious examples hail from thewarm climes of McLaren Vale and Barossa Valley where they are typically labelled GSM.Whether you call it Grenache, Garnacha or Cannonau, it is a grape for all seasons. Served

with a winter stew, it is guaranteed to warm you. Equally comfortable at an outdoorbarbecue, when outfitted in pink, it will slake a thirst in the summer heat. In all of the grape’sguises, it is gracious and generous and finally getting the attention it deserves. The girl nextdoor is growing up to be a fashionable, head-turning woman.

2009 La Vieille Ferme, Côtes du Ventoux AOC Rosé, France $14.00-$16.00 (#559393)OK, so there is more Cinsault than Grenache in this, but at 40 percent the Grenache still playsan important role. Bright, refreshing and dry with flavours of orange peel and pink grape-fruit, it will add a bit of sunshine to the winter months.2008 Bishop’s Sélection, Côtes du Rhône Villages AOC, France $14.00-$16.00 (#881664)A very affordable and easy-to-drink Côtes du Rhône offering ripe berries and spice notes.The perfect roast chicken wine.2007 Baron Louis, “Château de Montfaucon,” Côtes-du-Rhône AOC, France $27.00-$30.00(#453261)Here Grenache gets a little help frommany of its friends; Cinsault, Syrah, Carignan, Counoiseand Mourvèdre all play a supporting role. The result is a stellar Côtes-du-Rhône with lovelystrawberry and raspberry aromas and flavours as well as a great structure.2006 Domaine Paul Autard, Châteauneuf-du-Pape AOC, France $50.00-$55.00 (#874057)This Grenache-dominated Châteauneuf-du-Pape is a real head-turner.Wild dark berries, gar-rigue and lifted peppery notes with a touch of Syrah adding complexity and backbone. Def-initely a food wine.2005 Les Clos de Paulilles, ‘Rimage,’ Banyuls AOC, France $38.00-$42.00*Appealing chocolate and cocoa aromas. Very port-like but a grilled herb component adds in-trigue. If you are wondering what to serve with your decadent chocolate dessert, look no fur-ther. A great price for a full bottle of Banyuls.2006 Palacios Remondo, ‘La Montesa,’ Rioja DOCa, Spain $30..00-$33.00 (#921627)(55 percent Garnacha, 40 percent Tempranillo, 5 percent Mazuelo) Amodern style of Rioja.

Pronounced vanilla notes are complemented by fresh wild cherries, strawberries and rasp-berries. Well made and ready to drink.2007 Yalumba, ‘Bush Vine’ Grenache, Barossa Valley, Australia $25-$28.00 ( #531228)A testament to Australia’s success with Grenache. Precise, focussed and juicy. Think pure

fresh crushed raspberries. This savoury, food-friendly gem offers excellent value for themoney.2007 Argiolas, ‘Costera,’ Sardegna DOC, Italy $26.00-28.00 (#45791)A long-time favourite and the best vintage we’ve had to date. Seductive floral notes of vi-

olet with blackcurrant, red plum and wild herbs. Very slight rusticity adds charm. The Sar-dinians would enjoy this with suckling pig; we would settle for a succulent pork roast.

2009 Castillo de Monseran, Cariñena DO, Spain $10,00-$12.00 (#197806)Always a good value for everyday quaffing. Shows the fruity, fun-loving side of Garnacha.

2006 Langmeil, ‘Three Gardens,’ Barossa Valley, Australia $25.00-$28.00 (#640821)Australia’s liberal interpretation of Châteauneuf-du-Pape, this “GSM” blend is actually

dominated by Shiraz, with a healthy portion of Grenache and a smaller dose of Mourvèdre.Full- bodied and fully fruited: ripe blackberry and cherry, chocolate and a hint o’ mint. Hellolittle lamb!

*Available at private wine stores only. Prices may vary.


LATE BLOOMERWhether you call it Grenache, Garnacha or Cannonau, this grape is gracious, generousand finally getting the attention it deserves.

wine + terroir —byMichaela Morris and Michelle Bouffard chefs

“Whatthat gou

Bill Jones Dmany excellvinegar fromsteamed orenamoured w

Matt Risslimind wouldfinishing touyou'll start spansies tendrosemary wit

Peter De Brsea salt anddone, the skiThe salt actucrumbled gopecans. Garrustic bread.

Ken Huestoabout the wichanterelle oisland bount

Ben Petersgarden!

Anna Hunt Pwith fresh hechives, parslany other kit

Christabelmushrooms.lobster musthrough thegood with th

Ken Nakanopreserves topork cheeksblackberry v

Edward Tuslocal…and th

Matt Thompstocks are thbrothers, anlocal vegetaball the differetaught that arotten bits.

Alberto Pozcally porcinismushroomsgourmet foodlocally pickelocal wild dri

e for many of960s, it wasperseded bykily there is achampionedis a fantastice, Syrah andhail from theled GSM.sons. Servedan outdoor

of the grape’sThe girl next

59393)che still playsd pink grape-

(#881664)spice notes.

27.00-$30.00

an, Counoisee with lovely

0 (#874057)k berries, gar-ckbone. Def-

nent adds in-t, look no fur-

921627)style of Rioja.ies and rasp-

#531228)y. Think purevalue for the

al notes of vi-arm. The Sar-k roast.

of Garnacha.

640821)d is actuallyf Mourvèdre.o’ mint. Hello


QuadraVillage (across from Fairway Market) 250.590.1940Colwood Private Liquor Store (Corner of Sooke Rd & Kelly Rd) 250.478.1303

Locally Owned and Operated.

Outstanding Service.

Exciting Product Selection.

Great Pricing.

Vote for your favourite Vancouver Island Winery, Cidery, Brewery or Liquor Retailer, for a chance to win a Private Wine Tasting from Cascadia Liquor.

chefs talk— compiled by Ceara Lornie

The Ask“What local ingredient gives a home-cooked mealthat gourmet flourish?”

Bill Jones Deerholme Farm 250.748.7450 This is really a tough question as there are somany excellent local ingredients. If money were no object I would pick the balsamicvinegar from Venturi Shulze. It is magic on a salad of local greens, or lightly drizzled onsteamed or grilled vegetables. At the other end of the cost spectrum, I'm currentlyenamoured with the local sea salt from Vancouver Island Salt company.

Matt Rissling The Marina Restaurant 250.598.8555 The first thing that pops into mymind would be the use of local flowers and herbs for garnish. Any garnish at all adds thatfinishing touch many of us see when dining out. Educate yourself on what to look for, andyou'll start seeing edible flowers just about everywhere. Calendula, violets and winterpansies tend to hang around our gardens through much of the winter and cut sprigs ofrosemary with their blue flowers is a good choice too.

Peter De Bruyn The Strathcona Hotel 250.383.7137 Candy cane beets! Rub them withsea salt and olive oil, wrap in tin foil and bake in the oven for 30 minutes. When they aredone, the skin should be easy to peel off and you have beautiful looking candy cane beets.The salt actually cures right into the beet so you don’t lose the salty flavor. I like to addcrumbled goat cheese with crushed roasted pecan pieces. For a sweeter taste, use candiedpecans. Garnish with toasted pumpkin seeds and serve with wedges of your favoriterustic bread.

Ken Hueston Smoken’ Bones Cookshack 250.391.6328 This time of the year I get excitedabout the wild edible mushrooms Vancouver Island has to offer. Whether its lobster, pine,chanterelle or bolete mushrooms every dish seems to upgraded with a handful of thisisland bounty!

Ben Peterson Heron Rock Bistro 250.383.1545 Fresh herbs picked out of your owngarden!

Anna Hunt Paprika Bistro 250.592.7424 I would have to say fresh herbs. Finishing a dishwith fresh herbs can instantly brighten it both in appearance and flavour. A large pinch ofchives, parsley, cilantro or dill at the last second can really liven up a pasta, soup or almostany other kitchen creation.

Christabel Padmore The Little Piggy 250.483.4171 We're always excited about localmushrooms. It's very satisfying to spruce up our dinner with easy to find chanterelles, orlobster mushrooms. It's best when you collect them yourself and they're free! Hikingthrough the forest is also exercise, so you can justify the cream and butter that tastes sogood with the mushrooms.

Ken Nakano The Fairmont Empress250.384.8111 I like using fruits and some of mypreserves to give our Sunday dinners a special gourmet extravagance. For example, braisedpork cheeks with caramelized apple and hazelnut sauce. Or roasted cylinder beets withblackberry vinaigrette

Edward Tuson EdGe 778.425.3343 Local wild mushrooms! Because they are exotic butlocal…and there are oh so many varieties.

Matt Thompson Bistro Caché 250.652.5044 For that, "gourmet flourish," at home goodstocks are the foundation.Wemake brown stocks from island grass-fed beef from the Bairdbrothers, and Cowichan Bay Farm ducks. Kildara Farm chickens, fish bones and trim, andlocal vegetables provide a lighter base for other dishes. Good, fresh, local products makeall the difference as many dishes can only be as good as the ingredients in the stock. I wastaught that a stock should not be made from anything we wouldn't eat, no peels, dirt, orrotten bits.

Alberto Pozzolo The Italian Bakery/ La Piola 250.388.4557Wild mushrooms, specifi-cally porcinis (Boletus Edulis), add gourmet flourish to a home-cooked meal. We get localmushrooms through our own forages and local pickers and dried mushrooms throughgourmet food stores. Untamed Feast provides us with supreme driedmushroomswhich arelocally picked and dried to the highest standard, a rarity even in Europe these days. I uselocal wild dried mushrooms in soups, on pizza, in pasta sauces, and my favourite, risotto.


VALENTINE’S DAYDARK CHOCOLATE FONDUEEach issue, our online DRINK editor, Treve Ring, will be asking local wine experts how

they would approach pairing certain dishes with wines. This time we tackle dark

chocolate fondue. This cool winter weather calls for hunkering down and heating up

with deep, dark chocolate fondue with all the fixings. It might also be just the thing

for a certain day in mid-February named for an obscure Italian saint.

OUR EXPERTS:Kurtis Kolt (KK) Kurtis Kolt is a B.C.-basedwine director, competition judge,

consultant, speaker and writer who was awarded the Sommelier of the

Year Award at the 2010Vancouver Playhouse InternationalWine Festival for

his work at Vancouver’s Salt Tasting Room.

Sharon McLean (SM) Sharon McLean is a certified sommelier (through

International Sommelier Guild), libations writer for Boulevard magazine

and the instructor of Wine and Spirit Education Trust (WSET) courses on

Vancouver Island for the International Culinary School.

Samantha Rahn (SR) Samantha Rahn is the wine director at Araxi in

Whistler, where she has been looking after their award-winning cellar since

2007.

Classic Dish: Dark Chocolate FondueNEWWORLD

KK – I’d head down to Argentina for a Malbec that offers some of those wonderfully

dark and dusty cocoa notes, along with typical flavours of baking spices like clove,

cinnamon, nutmeg and anise.

OLDWORLD

SM –Banyuls, a Grenache-based lightly fortified wine from the Roussillon region in the

South of France, is my choice. Dark chocolate fondue is no shrinking violet and needs

a powerful wine to stand up to it. Banyuls, with its full body and powerful notes of

dried cherries, strawberries, figs, caramel and nuts, is up to the job.

DRYWINE

SR – I am definitely rediscovering great California Zinfandels (especially rich, sunny

Zins from Paso Robles), and they can have a nice affinity for dark chocolate, especially

when you dunk some delicious fruits, or my favourite fondue dipper, banana bread,

in it.

What is your all-time favourite chocolate and wine pairing?

KK – Specifically, I’ve always enjoyed Thomas Haas’ Chocolate Sparkle Cookies with

the Gonzales Byass Nutty Solera Oloroso Sherry. I find the rich, chocolaty elements

are enhanced by the toffee-coated hazelnut notes of the sherry and especially that

lashing of a Bourbon-styled heat that is synonymous with Oloroso.

SM – I prefer to eat my chocolate and drinkmywine separately! Most chocolate dishes

have an element of sweetness that oftenmakes dry wines seem tart and tannic.While

I can enjoy some sweeter wines, like port, Madeira or a sweeter sherry with chocolate,

my preference is to let the chocolate take centre stage as the diva it is!

SR – I am such a big fan of sweet wines, and the first person to convince my guests to

explore them. My favourite chocolate dish to pair is Araxi pastry chef Aaron Health’s

Chocolate Fondant, a version of the classic molten cake made with Valrhona

chocolate. My number one pairing choice is Banyuls from Chapoutier. This vin doux

naturel from southern France is magical with chocolate.

what to drink with that—by Treve Ring

victoriaspirits.com

A youthfulaward-winningspirit gracefullymatured in newAmerican oakbarrels.

It can mix likea whisky or ginbut we suggesttrying it ‘naked’.

It has nothingto hide.

VICT RIASPIRITS

O

DUEexperts how

tackle dark

d heating up

ust the thing

etition judge,

melier of the

e Festival for

ier (through

rd magazine

courses on

at Araxi in

g cellar since

wonderfully

s like clove,

region in the

et and needs

rful notes of

y rich, sunny

e, especially

nana bread,

Cookies with

aty elements

pecially that

colate dishes

annic.While

h chocolate,

my guests to

ron Health’s

ona

his vin doux

Ring

| $49

| Saturdays 6:30 - 9:30 PM

| Friday & Saturday Evenings

| Snuggle in and sample our new fireside lounge menu

Open 7 days a week

5325 Cordova Bay Rd.250-658-3116

Our service can best be described as“Knowledgeable,yet not pretentious……approachable,

with a hint of sass!”

a tMATTICK’S FARM

www.matticksfarm.com

VVQQAA WWiinnee SShhoopp

Welcome the New Year in at Mattick’s Farm

125-2401 C Millstream Road250.391.1110 8 AM-11 PM

903 Yates At Quadra250.381.6000 7 AM-11 PM

Documents

EAT Magazine Jan | Feb 2011