Early Season Gardening

8/12/2019 Early Season Gardening

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Ear ly Season Gardening

SO WHAT DO WE REALLY MEAN BY

EARLY SEASON GARDENING?

Some areas are blessed with warm

temperatures in the early part of the year,

while others have snow on the ground until

April or May. It is important to understand

that when we speak of early spring, we aretalking about a season rather than a date.

This is especially true of getting the garden

prepared in the early spring. A successful

garden harvest depends on many

important steps, from the garden site itself

to proper care of the plants. Here are a few

tips as you get ready for this gardening

season.

SITE SELECTION:

In the plant world we need ample light to

fuel photosynthesis. Simply put the more

direct sun, the better the yield. Shade

trees grow larger every year and can

slowly shade a once sunny garden spot.

Vegetables need sun and lots of it. Leafy

vegetables, like lettuce and cabbage, and

root crops such as carrots and turnips, will

get by with some shade. But beans,

tomatoes, peppers, melons, cucumbers,

squash and other fruiting vegetables need

at least 8 to 10 hours of direct sun for

healthy plants and maximum yield. Light

is not the only factor in deciding where you

THE GARDEN PATH

A range ofcoolweathervegetables.

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should plant. Soil temperature also

enhances the growth rate. When

deciding a site you should consider the

dates of the last frosts in your area.

ZONE AND AVERAGE FROST

DATES

Zone 6

(most of the lower mainland)

Last Frost Mar30 - Apr30

First Frost Sept30 - Oct30

Zone 7

(Greater Victoria and coastal Vancouver)

Last Frost Mar30 - Apr30

First Frost Oct30 - Nov30

SOIL PREPARATION:

The best garden soils are rich and highly organic.

Unless you have been working a spot for years,

constantly adding compost and other organic

matter, your soil will need amending. It is best to

think of the soil as a living entity. It too needs a

balanced diet. This means using a blended soil

amendment such as West Coast Soil Energizer

or SeaSoil along with a good source of

multivitamins. GARDENWORKS Vegetable andflower food will provide these.

Soil pH is a critical factor often overlooked by many

gardeners. Most vegetables grow best with a pH of

6.0 to 6.5. Some, like beans and beets, just won't

do well at all in acid soil below pH 6.5. Poor growth

and disappointing yields result from acidic soils.

Our lower mainland soils can be very acidic, and

often require the addition of lime to raise the pH to

an acceptable level. How much lime depends on

your soil type and the actual pH of your soil.

SOIL TEST:

For the best results, take the guesswork out of the

picture and have your soil tested by a reputable soil

testing lab. This can be expensive so there are

some rapid home tests you can buy.

Be sure to take several random samples from you

garden spot, thoroughly mixed together, for the

test.

An onion can make people cry butthere's never been a vegetable that canmake people laugh.”

Will Rogers

Home soil test kitCourtesy Sure Growth Ltd

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CULTIVAR SELECTION:

Two other very important factors in a successful

garden is to plant the right

For every type of vegetable there are dozens, even

hundreds, of varieties to choose from. Seed

catalogs entice with beautiful pictures and luscious

descriptions. But, what produces bumper crops in

New York, Toronto or even the Okanagan may not

necessarily do well in in the Lower mainland or

Greater Victoria.

Some important traits to look for in vegetable

varieties include disease resistance, high yield and

early maturity. The less time a plant is in the

garden before harvest, the less you have to worry

about disease and insect pests, watering and

extreme summer heat prematurely ending harvest.

PLANTING DATE:

Timing is everything. You want most crops to

mature before the onslaught of hot weather (except

tomatoes peppers and sweet corn which require

warmer weather). So, most crops need to be

planted as early as possible. Mid-March is the

"average" last freeze date for the Vancouver area,

so crops sensitive to frost like beans, corn and

watermelons can usually be seeded just prior to

and after that date. Tomatoes can be transplantedbefore that time if you are prepared to give them

frost protection. A quilt or blanket draped over a

cage will protect them from a frost, but won't help

much in a severe, late freeze.

GENERAL PLANTING DATES

Early spring Plant as soon as ground can be worked in spring:

• Broccoli plants and other ‘Cole crops’ suchas Cabbage, Kohlrabi, Cauliflower, and

Kale• Endive and Lettuce

Onion sets

• Parsley

• Peas

• Radishes

• Spinach

• Turnips

A Farmer’s Market table in winter

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Mid spring crops

Plant these at time of the average last killing spring

frost:

• Carrots

• Cauliflower plants

• Beets

•

Onion seeds• Parsnips

• Swiss Chard

Plant 2 Weeks Later :

• Beans

• Corn

• Potatoes

• Early Tomato Seeds

Arugula – Sow seeds in the garden as

soon as soil can be worked in spring. They

will germinate in about 7 days and are

ready to harvest in 3 to 4 weeks. For a

continuous harvest, sow seeds every 2

weeks until temperatures heat up.

Beets – Sow seeds in early spring as

soon as the soil can be worked. Beets

prefer a well-drained, sandy soil. Avoid

high nitrogen fertilizers as this will

encourage top growth at the expense of

root development. As with all root crops

good soil aeration is key to uniform, robust

development. Consistent moisture is also

important. Keep areas weed free to avoid

competition for nutrients.

Cultivars to try: Chioggia, Early Wonder

Tall-top (if you want to eat the greens),

Red Ace

Broccoli – Broccoli seed can be sown

directly in the garden 4 weeks before the

last frost date in your area or set out

transplants 2 weeks before the last frost

date. The ideal day time temperature for broccoli is

between 65 and 80 degrees. Feed the plants 3

weeks after transplanting into the garden. Use a

low nitrogen fertilizer.

Cultivars to try: Everest, Calabrese, Red Sphere

(has a red purple tinge) Raab (traditional

open Italian style)

Cabbage – Start seeds indoors 6 to 8 weeks

before the last front date or plant transplants in the

garden 2 weeks before that date. Direct sow in the

garden immediately after the last frost date.

Cabbage plants are heavy feeders that require

fertile soil rich in organic matter and consistent

moisture.

Cultivars to try: Derby Day, Savoy Chieftain,Red Acre

Great Cultivars

Rainbow Chard

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Carrots – Sow seeds in spring about 2 weeks

before the last frost date. Carrots need deep,

loose soil to form a robust root. Keep the bed

weeded to avoid competition for nutrients from

other plants. Too much nitrogen will result in

forked roots. When the seedlings are about 2-

inches tall, thin them so there is about 1 to 4-

inches between them. Cover the shoulders with

mulch or soil to keep them from turning green and

bitter cover with remay cloth to avoid fly problems

Cultivars to try: Nantes, Danvers, Bolero, Fly

Away

Collards – Collard transplants can be planted 4 to

6 weeks before the last frost date in your area.

Plant in fertile, well drained soil with a pH of 6.5 to

6.8. Rich soil encourages rapid growth and tender

leaves, which are the best tasting collards.

English Peas – Direct sow in the garden 4 to 6

weeks before the last frost date in your area. They

will germinate in soil temperatures as low as 5

degrees C. Seedlings will survive a late snow and

short periods of temperatures down to -5 degrees

C

Cultivars to try: Thomas Laxton, Lincoln

Homesteader, Green Arrow Oregon Sugar Pod

Kale – You can plant kale in early spring, about 3

to 5 weeks before the last frost date. Cover with

frost blankets during severe cold. Similar to

collards very fertile soil is ideal to encourage rapid

growth and tender leaves.

Cultivars to try: Redbor, Lacinato

Kohlrabi – Kohlrabi is similar to a turnip, but is

actually related to cabbage. Set plants out 4weeks before the last frost date. Protect young

plants from freezing temperatures with a frost

blanket. Cool temperatures enhance the sweet

flavor.

Cultivars to try: Superschmeltz

Onions – Onions can be grown from sets, small

bulbs, or transplants, which look like scallions and

come in a bundle of 60 or so. Either method

should be planted in early spring as soon as the

soil is workable. Long-day varieties are suitable

for Northern gardens and short-day varieties can

be planted in the South. Place time release

fertilizer in the planting hole so that it is close to

the roots. Follow the fertilizer's label directions.

Cultivars to try: Walla Walla, Spanish, Early

Bunching

Radish – Sow radish seeds in the garden about 4

weeks before the last frost date in your area. No

feeding necessary, but soil should be fertile and

well drained. They are quick to mature so check

them regularly. They are ready to harvest as soon

as they are of edible size.

Cultivars to try: Black, White Icicle, FrenchBreakfast, Cherry Belle

Spinach – Spinach seeds can be sown over

frozen ground to germinate as the soil thaws.

Transplants can be set out 4 weeks before the

last frost date in your area. Fertilize when the

plants are about 10cm tall. Spinach prefers very

fertile soil to encourage rapid growth and tender

leaves. Once the days get long and warm it will

bolt, meaning that it grows tall, blooms and

becomes bitter tasting.

Cultivars to try: New Zealand, Tyee

Swiss Chard – Swiss Chard is one the more

beautiful vegetables in the garden. Bright Lights

and Ruby are favorites for adding color to the

garden and the dinner table. Plant or sow seeds 2

weeks before the last frost date in your area. Thin

to 6-inches apart when seedlings are 3-inches tall.

Water regularly. Turnip – Plant 2 weeks before thelast frost date. Any well-drained soil will do.

Consistent moisture is key for healthy root

development. Although it is not necessary, the

greens will be the most tender if you plant in a

fertile soil.

Cultivars to try: Fordhook Giant, Rainbow

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These pairings generally help against disease and bug infestations. It can be helpful to

plan at least one helpful plant near potential troublesome target plants. Avoid planting

target plant near plants that reduce their mutual efficacy.

Plant Benefited by Impeded by

bean Corn, cucumber,strawberry

onion

beet cabbage, lettuce, onion bean

cabbage Celery, onion, potato Strawberry,tomato

carrot Chive, lettuce, onion,pea,

dill

corn Bean, cucumber, pea,potato, pumpkin

tomato

cucumber Bean, corn, onion, pea,radish, sunflower

potato

eggplant Green beangreenpepper

Basil, okra

kale Cabbage, potato, sage Wildmustar d

lettuce Cucumber, radish,strawberry

Bean,tomato

onion Chamomile, savoury Bean, pea

parsley tomato

pea Carrot, turnip

potato Bean, corn, eggplant

radish Mustard, nasturtium

spinach strawberry

tomato Asparagus, carrot, celery,onions, parsley

Corn, potato

turnip pea mustard

Taken from Louise Riotte 1997 Carrots Love Tomatoes: Secrets of Companion Planting

for Successful Gardening Storey Publishing, LLC; 2nd Revised edition

Companion Planting

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Shall I not have intelligence with the earth?Am I not partly leaves and vegetable mould myself.

- Henry David Thoreau














Preparation for this seminar

This seminar is scheduled for 28th March 2010

Gather several types of seeds from several suppliers. Choose the cultivars listed or

substitute with your own favourites. Also choose several pots and containers, ceramic, resin,

terra cotta, wood etc. to show these cultivars can also be used for small space gardening.

This will draw in the balcony gardener and the small space gardener. You can add in somesmall plants to the planters to cover the soil.

This will vary depending on who is presenting.

Remember presentation should only be 20 minutes with time for questions following.

THINGS YOU MAY WANT TO INCLUDE

Several seed packs or starter vegetable packs

GARDENWORKS Planter Box Mix (for container gardening)

GARDENWORKS Vegetable and Flower Food and 15-30-15

West Coast Seed catalogue

Seminar FeedBackTo help us plan for our next series of seminars please fill this sheet and keep this for future reference. Anycomments or concerns we should know about please forward to Head Office via fax or via email

([email protected])

Date and timing suitable Y/Nif not better is there a better date

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Early Season Gardening