OBJECTIVES I N DYEING SYNTHETIC FIBERS

DYE F I B E R TO T H E D E S I R E D S H A D E

MAINTAIN

N E C E S S A R Y FASTNESS P R O P E R T I E S

O B T A I N A LEVEL U N I F O R M D Y E I N G

PREVENT D E S T R U C T I O N OF(5)

THE F A B R I C

OR

FIBERS

MAINTAIN

COST L E V E L S

--

I

MAJOR SYNTHETIC FIBERS

POLYAMIDES

-

NYLON 6, N Y L O N 6, 6

POLYACRYLONITRILES

-

ACRYLICS MODACRYLICS

POLYESTERS

(DISPERSE DYEABLE) (BASIC DYEABLE)

MODIFIED CELLULOSICS

-

tE\fTRIACETATE.

1

DYES FOR A C R Y L I C FIBERS

CATIONIC DYES

DISPERSE DYES

A C I D DYES

FOR A C I D DYEABLE TYPE

--

POLYACRYLON I TR I LE F I BERS

I

CN

ACRY LON I TR I LE100% POLYACRYLONITRILE IS DIFFICULT TO DYE

ACRYLIC FIBERS MODACRY LI C F I BERS

AT LEAST &SX ACRYLONITRILE35 - 85% ACRYLONITRILE

/-

SOURCES OF BARRE I N NYLON _ _ -

a

CHEMICAL END GROUPSO R I E N T A T I O N AND CRYSTALLINITY

X-SECTION,

SURFACE ROUGHNESS

NON-UNIFORM TEXTURING

NON-UNIFORM KNITTING TENSION

6

FACTORS I N SELECTING DYES FOR NYLON

ECONOMY

SHADE

(

BRIGHTNESS OR DULLNESS)

FASTNESS REQUI REMENTS

LEVEL

DYEING PROPERTIES

BARRE CONTROL

E

LEVELING ACID DYES ON NYLON

REQUIRES

ACETICWITH

OR

FORMIC ACID

FOR

DYEING

EXHAUSTED

ADDITIONAL FORMICACID

GOOD LEVELING PROPERTIESGOOD B A R R E COVERAGEPOOR WETFASTNESS P R O P E R T I E S

LIGHTFASTNESS V A R I E S

--

a

h I

CD

2 0w

z

w z 0 z

> r >

\

WQ,

0Qc

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IL

ICh

x 0 z

-

I -

e c1 eY

I

v)

v , CC c3

c3

zCI

0

z

w

> nL

z0 0CI

w u , = r L O uv)l -

w L

e

aWCI

JW L L

2 - 0

z

W

J

7

NEUTRAL DYEING ACID DYESDYED FROM NEUTRAL SOLUTION

COMPLETE EXHAUSTION WITH AMMONIUM SULFATE*

LEVEL WELL

GOOD BARR:

COVERAGE

- GOOD L1GHTFASTNESS

a

WETFASTNESS PROPERTl ES

.

M I L L I N G ACID DYES ON NYLON

REQUIRES ACETIC ACID FOR DYEINGEXHAUSTED WITH ADDITIONAL ACETIC OR

FORMIC

DO NOT COVER BARRE LIGHTFASTNESS VARIES WETFASTNESS GENERALLY GOOD

--

a

NEUTRAL

DYEING

ACID DYES

DYED FROM NEUTRAL SOLUTIONCOMPLETE EXHAUSTlON WITH AMMONIUM SULFATEs

EL LEVEL W L

GOOD BARRE COVERAGE.GOOD LIGHTFASTNESSLIMITED WETFASTNESS PROPERTIES

--

-I-

A C I D METALIZED DYES ON NYLONDULL SHADES EXHAUSTED

WITH FORMIC A C I Ds

POOR LEVEL1 NG PROPERTIES

L l GHTFASTNESS GENERALLY GOODWETFASTNESS GENERALLY GOODe

/

-I

USE OF RETARDERS

TO

IMPROVE L E V E L I N G

- hcr13\:L5or f i b e r a t

-

hq-5

Compounds which combine w i t h e i t h e r dye

low t e m p e r a t u r e They a r e r e l e a s e d a t h i g h temp. and d y e i n g t a k e s

place.Reduce. t h e r a t e o f d y e i n g b e l o w the b o i l

-

May be c r i t i c a l i n p a s t e l shades t o o b t a i n l e v e l

dyeings

-

14

NEUTRAL METALIZED DYES ON NYLONDULL SHADES

DYED NEUTRAL OR SLIGHTLY ALKALINE

FAST STRIKE'

:POOR' LEVELING

L IGHTFASTNESS GOODNETFASTNESS GOOD.

CHROME DYES ON NYLON

.

FOR EXCELLENT WETFASTNESS I N HEAVY SHADES

APPLY SAME AS A C I D DYES AFTER - CYROME TREAT DYED

GOODS WITH FORMIC ACID SOD1 UM DICHROMATE SOD I UM TH I OSULFATE -

CHROME COMPLEXES WITH DYE MOLECULES

--

16

RETARDING SYSTE S FOR NYLuNI

AN I ON I C SURFACTANT

CATIONIC/NONIONIC SURFACTANT SALTS

--

DYEING NYLON AT ELEVATED TEMPERATURESFOR SELECTED DYES DYEING AT 235 - 250 F IMPROVES1, SHADE BUILDUP 2 , PENETRATION3,

LEVELING

4, BARR:

5- 6,

FASTNESS PROPERTIES FAULTY DYEINGS MADE AT THE BOIL

18

DISPERSE DYES ON NYLON

APPLY SAME AS ON ACETATE

DO NOT BUILD AS GOOD AS ON ACETATELEVEL WELLFASTNESS PROPERT I ES ARE POOR

.

.

17

H2N

-

NYLON

+J -

-

COOH'^ .

1 ;,w, ,- .I

p

HA (ACID)

+ H ~ N- NYLON

+

-

COOH

NA+ DYE-

D Y E - H ~ N - NYLON

-

COOH + NAA

4

DYES FOR NYLON

ACID DYES

ACID METALIZED DYESNEUTRAL METALIZED DYESCHROME DYES

DISPERSE DYES--

e

, -

ic

I! $

BASIC DYE PROPERTI~S

- I o n i c Dyes

t

D

n e t p o s i t i v e charge

-

AS

a class - h i g h c o l o r v a l u e-

- among t h e

b r i g h t e s t dyes a v a i l a b l e -

- Almost u n l i m i t e d shade r a n g e - Many h a v e f l u o r e s e n c e p r o p e r t i e s- L i g h t f a s t n e s s on a c r y l i c s v a r i e s f r o m poor t ogood. On o t h e r fibers i t c a n be very p o o r .

- W a s h f a s t n e s s i s g e n e r a l l y good

-

C h l o r i n e f a s t n e s s is p o o rHigh strike rate

Poor l e v e l i n g

B A S I C D Y E S ON A C R Y L I C S

DYEING MECHANISM

aso 3 -

ACRYLIC+DYE

_ - SO?

. L.

STRONG

IONIC BONDS

e

.*-

DYEING OF ACRYLICS WITH B A S I C S

Dye i s mixed w i t h :.25% EDTA10.0 % S o d i u m s u l f a t e ( g l a u b e r s s a l t )

. 5 % Nonionic s u r f a c t a n t1.5

-

3.0 % Retarder

0.5

-

1.0 % Acetic a c i d ( 5 6 % )

Raise dyebath 8 3" F / m i n t o 180" F , then s l o w l y 1" F / m i n or l e s s t o 212" F.Run for 1 . 0

-

1.5 hr.

Make any adds a f t e r cooling t o 170" F , then r a i s e slowly back t o 212" F , run 20 m i n .

Note.

Always c o o l bath slowly t o avoid crack

and c r e a s e marks i n t h e f a b r i c .--

I "

COMBINATION SHADES

CATIONIC DYES EXHAUST AT VARIOUS RATES I N COMBINATIONS, ONE DYE MAY EXHAUST F I R S T AND BLOCK OTHER DYES. RESULTS : SHADE DOES NOT BUILD ON TONE

MAY NOT OBTAIN DESIRED SHADEK1

-

Values,

-

F a s t e s t Exhaustion

5

- Slowest Exhaustion

FOR COMBINATION SHADES, USE DYES W I T H I N ONE U N I T OF EACH OTHER.. \

23

DISPERSE DYES ON ACRYLICS -

FOR LIGHT AND MEDIUM SHADES ONLY LEVEL WELL DYE AT BOIL FOR 14

-

2 HOURS

SELECTED DISPERSE DYES HAVE GOOD FASTNESS PROPERTIES

--

LL

0

(3

z -

w

ziI

tL

0W I -

a a

U D 0W c)

2W

0W

zul,

w0W

e

>

w

0

a0

3baa aaW

cn

eW

z

t-

GENERAL PROPERTIES OF MODACRYLICS SHRINK SEVERLY ABOVE A CRITICAL TEMPERATURE DELUSTER IN DYEBATH MUST COOL DYEBATH SLOWLY SENSITIVE TO DRY HEAT DYEABLE WITH SELECTIVE CATIONIC DYES DYEABLE WITH SELECTIVE DISPERSE DYES

ACID DYEABLE ACRYLICS DYEABLE WITH ACID, CATIONIC, AND DISPERSE DYESNOT

WIDELY USED

DYED AT BOIL AT VERY LOW PH SELECTED ACID DYES HAVE GOOD FASTNESS PROPERTIES

PROPERTIES OF POLYESTER

MORE HYDROPHOB I c THAN TR I ACETE DYED WITH DISPERSE DYESCAN BE DYED WITH AZOIC DYES*

REQUIRE CARRIER OR PRESSURE TO DYE CATIONIC DYEABLE TYPE CAN BE HEAT SET

--

DYES FOR POLYESTER

DISPERSE

PROPERTIES OF DISPERSE DYES

INSOLUBLE I N WATER WATER

D I SPERS IBLE

NONIONICDYES ALL SYNTHETIC

FIBERS

SUBLIME WHEN HEATED STAINS CELLULOSE

FIBERS

STAINS PROTEIN FIBERS

DYEING SYSTEMS FOR POLYESTER

NORMAL AQUEOUS SYSTEM

\

L

PRESSURE SYSTEM

0

THERMOSOL SYST

--

a

I'

"'*

HIGH ENERGY

I

DYEING MECHANISM

PARTITIONING OF A SOLID BETWEEN TWO IMMISCIBLE SOLVENTS

DYE FORMS A SOLID SOLUTION IN THE FIBER

33

PROPERTIES OF

AN IDEAL

CARRIER

1 HIGH EFFICIENCY, NEN WHEN APPLIED AT MINIMUM CONCENTRATION, AND .

INDEPENDENT Of THE CONSTITUTION OF THE DISPERSE DYE.2.

RAPID EMULSIFIABILITY AND GOOD STABILITY O THE CARRIER EMULSION f UNDER DYEING CONDITIONS. VOLATILITY IN STEAM.

3. LOW4. NO

OBJECTIONABLE ODOR.SHRINKAGE.

5 MINIMUM SWELLING O THE FIBER, AND MINIMUM INFLUENCE ON THE . FFIBER

6 NO PROMOTION O THE UPTAKE OF DISPERSE DYES BY OTHER FIBERS IN . F

BLENDS.7.8.

READILY REMOVED FROM THE FIBROUS MATERIAL.NO

INFLUENCE ON THE FASTNESS TO LIGHT AND HEAT -SETTING OF THE DYED SHADES. -TOXICITY.

9. LW O

FACTORS I N SELECTING DYES FOR POLYESTER

ECONOMY

FASTNESS REQUIREMENTS LEVEL DYEING OR BARRE CONTROL STABILITY AT HIGH TEMPERATURE DISPERSION (ESPECIALLY PACKAGE DYEING)

--

TRIMERS

CONGLOMERATE ON AND CLOG MACHINESRESTRICT FO I I N PACKAGE DYEING LG

GIVE DYEING DULL OR S m APPEARANCE P O

TO

ELIMINATE TRIMER PROBLEMS

1- USE CARRIER THAT CONTROLS TRIMER

RELEASE

2.

DROP BATH WHILE HOT

3. AFTER SCOUR GOODS GIITH CAUSTIC AND HYDRO

FACTORS IN SELECTING CARRIERS FOR POLYESTER ECONOMY

.

USE IN ATMOSPHERIC OR HIGH TWERATURE DYEING

LEVELLING AND BAR& COVERAGE'

EFFECT ON LIGHT FASTNESS RESISTANCE TO SPOTTINGEASE

W REHOVAL

TOXICITY ODOR DURING AND AFTF3 DYEING CONTROL OFSTAIN GlHEN

DYEING BLENDS

COMPATIBILITY AND FOAMING IN JET DYEING-.

TRIMER CONTROL

C A T I O N I C DYEABLE POLYESTER POLYESTER WITH SULPHONIC A C I D GROUP DYED WITH C A T I O N I C OR DISPERSE DYES REQUIWES CARRIER FOR DYEING P.EQUIRES G L R U B E V S SALT I F DYED UPJEEP. PRESSURE LIGHTFASTNESS OF MOST C A T I O N I C DYES NOT GOOD OTHER FASTNESS PROPERTIES OF C A T I O N I C DYES ARE GOOD USUALLY I N BLENDS RESERVE CROSS

-

DYEING

SUBLIMATION O DISPERSE DYES F

PROCESS OF DYE GOING FROM

SOLID TO VAPOR

WHEN HEATED

SUBLIMATION DECREASES WITH AN INCREASE IN SIZE O DYE MOLECULE F

LEVEL DYEING PROPERTIES DECREASE INCREASE IN SIZE O DYE MOLECULE F

WITH AN

39

u -' DYEING ACETATE WITH DISPERSE DYES

WET

OUT

GOODS

ADD SURFACTANT OR DISPERSING AGENT AT 100 - 120F ADD DYE IN PORTIONS OVER 10

-

15 MINUTES(

RAISE BATH SLOWLY TO 160 - 185 F DYE 30 - 60 MINUTES RINSE AT100

212'

F)

-

120 F

PROPERTIES OF ACETATE

HYDROPHOB ICWILL NOT DYE WITH WATER SOLUBLE DYES

WILL SAPONIFY I N CAUSTIC SOLUTION MAY DELUSTER USUALLY DYED WITH L W ENERGY DISPERSE DYES OCAN

EE DYED WITH AZOIC DYES

41

PROPERTIES OF TRIACETATEC MORE HYDROPHOB I THAN ACETATEWILL NOT SAPONIFY EASILY

WILL NOT DELUSTER

IN BOILING WATER

USUALLY DYED WITH DISPERSE DYES LIGHT AND MEDIUFJ: SHADES DYES 3

-

6 HOURS AT BOIL

HEAVY SHADES DYES 3

-

6 HOURS AT BOIL WITH CARRIER

(TRIPROPYLPHOSPHATE TYPE)CAN BE DYED UNDER PRESSURE AT 265 FCAN BE HEAT SET (10

- 15 SEC AT 425 - 450 F)

FASTNESS PROPERTIES OF DYES GENERALLY BETTER THAN ON ACETATE

FASTNESS PROPERTIES OF DISPERSE DYES (GENERAL) LIGHTFASTNESS - GOOD WASHFASTNESS - FAIR CROCKFASTNESS - GOOD PERSPIRATION -- FAIR

ON

ACETATE

GAS

FADING OZONE AND OXIDES OF NITROGEN (GAS FUMES) CAUSE SOME DYES (ESPECIALLY BLUES) TO FADE, REDUCED BY TREATING WITH GAS FADING INHIBITOR BEFORE OR DURING DYEING,1

DY ESTUF? PROPERTIES

Dyes

1I

E

t

Ease of Application Wash f a st nes s AverageI

L i ght f a s tness

Crock f a s t n e s s

Fastness

AcidI

Average1

Fair-Good

I

BasicD i rect

Averagg Cheap Average IAveragd

AverageF a i r l y Hard Easy Fairly Hard Hard

Poor-Good Poor-Good Good Good

II

II1

Good

II

Good

II

*

Good

Poor-Good r a i r-Good Good Good

1II

Fair-GoodWet -Poor Dry-Good

III

Fair-Good . Poor-GoodFa ir-Good

I

Disperse

Fai r-Good Fair-Good

'aphtho'

Fai r-Good

Reactive IGpensiIe Fairly AverageSulfur

Hard

1

I

Cheap

I

F a i r l y Hard

1

( if G-E soaped)

Good Good Excel 1ent

I II

.

Good

I

F a i r-Good

1

Fair-Goo Good Good

I

Fair-Good Good Excel 1ent

II

I

Good Good

1Ir

I

Vat

Average+ Fairly Hard

-

I

DYES ON FIBERType of Fiber

DyestuffsAcid

Ba*c

DirectX

Disperse NaphtholX

ReactiveX

S u l f u r VatX X

Natural Cotton

.WoolX X

Synthetic Rayon

*

X

X

X

.

x

X '

AcetatePol y e s t e r Nylon Acryl icXX

X

*

X

-

X

X

X

DY

ESTUFP PROPERTIESPerspi r a t i o n

Dyes

1I

z t

Properties Ease of I Lightfastness Application Washfastness AverageI

II

Crockfastness Good

Fastness

AcidI

AverageI

Fai r-Good

Good

- GoodFair-Good .Poor-Good~~~~

Bas i c

AverageFairly Hard

IDisperseNapht ho 1I

t

I

Poor-Good Poor-Good Good Good

Poor-GoodI

Fai r-Good Wet-PoorDry -Good

f a i r-GoodGood

Average Average

Fairly Hard HardII

I Fair-GoodFai r-Good

F a i r-Good

ReactiveSUI fur

I .II

Good

Fa i r -Good

I ICheap1

AverageExpens e Fairly Har F a i r l y Hard Fairly Hard

Good

Fai r-Goo

1II

Good

~

Fa i r-Good Good Excel 1ent

1

Good Good

I

VatII

Good ExcellentI

-

1

AC

I