Dyeing is Done on the Fabric to Decorate It

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    SESSION:- 2013-2014

    {DIPLOMA IN FASHION DESIGNING ANDGARMENT TECHNOLOGY}

    TRAINING REPORT

    ON

    APPAREL INDUSTRY & PRODUCTION MANAGMENT

    Under Supervision of: Submitted by:

    Mr. DINESH KUMAR GAUTAM NISHOO DEVI

    Principal

    Mr. PREM CHANDRA VERMA

    DEPARTMENT OF FASHION DESIGNING AND GARMENTTECHNOLOGY

    GOVT. GIRLS POLYTECHNIC VARANASI

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    COMMENTS

    PRINCIPAL:

    ........................................................................................................

    HEAD OF DEPARTMENT:

    ................................................................

    EXAMINAR:......................................................................................................

    PROJECT GUIDE:

    ........................................................................................

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    Dyeing is done on the fabric to decorate it. Dyeing is done

    through different methods; exhaust & silicate padding

    method. Colouration of textile materials involves the use of

    dyes and figments of various classes. Which are applied to

    the materials bessentially different techniques of dyeing and

    printing? The main objective in dyeing is the uniform

    colouration of the entire fabric with a primary, secondary

    and tertiar colour with the production of the same shade on

    thousands of meters of the fabric with out any change either

    in tone orin depth and adequate penetration of the distills

    inside the yarns and fibers present in the fabric. This is

    usually achieved by moving the material in a stationary

    dyestuff solution with or without a subsequent squeezing so

    as to facilitate the penetration of the dyestuff solution

    through a tightly or uniformly packed stationary material at

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    ativospheric or elevated pressures or by moving a material

    in the circulating dye stuff solution. This process is done by

    figger, jet and which dyeing machine in large sale and by

    piece dyeing method in small scales.

    Dyes Used For Dyeing

    Direct Dyes Direct Dyes Remazoles Dyes Procion Dyes

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    Direct Dyes:

    The direct dyes also known as substantive colours,

    differ from the basic and acid dyes because they are

    strongly substantive towards cellulosic fibers.

    Method:

    Dyes are addac according to the weight of the fabric in

    the water wet fabric and put it into the dyestuff solution

    in which (20 ml.) common salt is

    added then stir for 30 minute at the temp. Of 60 degree

    centigrade. After that first wash is done with not water

    for 2-3 times. Acetic acid is mixed with cold water for

    neutralization. After proper neutralization fabric is

    washed with soap for 5 to 6 times at times at the temp.

    Of 60 degree centigrade washing is done till water

    becomes clear.

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    Properties of Direct Dye:

    Poor washing or drubbing fastnessPoor light (sun) fastnessIncrease of temperature decreases the amount of

    dye absorbed by the fabric

    Mild alkali adversely effect upon the rate of dyeabsorption.

    Non-dischargeable dye.Poor curability of dyed fabric.

    Colours of Direct Dyes:

    Yellow 5 GLLChange TGLLB1ueGLBlackBTBlackE

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    SkyBlue6BSScarlet4BSBrownMROrange T4RLOliveGGRed5B

    Remazoles Dyes: -

    Remazoles dyes are used for both dyeing and printing

    process. In silicate podding method remazole give the

    excellent fastness. These dyes are fully dischargeable

    Remazole dyes are used on cotton, rayon or viscose fabrics.

    Fabric should be wet and then only should he put into the

    dyestuff solution in which 20 nil. Common salt is added then

    still for 30 minutes at the teinp. Of 60 degree ceriligrade.

    After 30 minutes, small amount of soda ash is deluded two

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    the solution and mixed well; keep it over heat for 45 minutes

    at the temp. Of 60 degree centigrade. After the first wash is

    given with cold water for 23 times. Acetic acid is another

    beaker containing cold watch. Add the washed fabric in to. it

    for final neutralization. After neutralization wash the fabric

    with soap for 5-6 times at the temp. of 60 degree centigrade

    to remove all the craces of acetic acid.

    Properties of Remazoles Dye:-

    Remazoles dyes are used for cotton, Rayon or viscose

    fabrics.

    These dyes are fully dischargeable.

    Rubbing and washing is tine & good.

    Rernazoles dyes are used under 60 degree centigi-ade temp.

    Colours B

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    Golden Yellow RYellow GR

    Blue 3R

    Brown GR

    Yellow RTn

    Triquesh Blue G

    Red 5B

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    Cold Brand- CM. Brand: - In cold Brand dyes, process of

    dyeing the fabric is same as hot brand cyeing process. The

    main difference between both the two processes that in cold

    brand process temp. Of dyestuff solution more checked

    below 40 degree centigrade temp.

    Properties of procion dyes:

    Procion dyes are bright in colour

    Rubbing fastness is good as compared to direct dyes.

    Stone colours of hot Brand are also used for printing.

    Some hot brand colours are dischargeable.

    Mostly all colours of cold brand CM brand are non

    dischargeable.

    These dyes are used for cotton and rayon (Viscose)

    fabric. (C.I-I.B. & C.B.)

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    Cold brand colours in dyed in normal room temp. suchas 40 degree centigrade

    (Soap & salt).

    Hct brand colours are dyed under 80 degree centigrade

    temp. while soda is

    Added.

    Mostly hot brand are having very good washing &

    Rubbing fastness.

    Procion dyes are generally used for exhaust

    method.

    Red 58

    Violet SR

    BlackRL

    Yellow 3G

    Red C2G

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    Procion Dyes: - Procion dyes are to lypesHot Brand (H.. Brand)

    Cold Brand (M. Brand)

    Procion dyes are used for cotton and Reyon (Viscose)

    fabrics. Procion dyes are generally used with exhaust

    method.

    Hot Brand (H. Brand):-

    It hot brand ray on fabric is dip in the dyestuff solution and

    20 ml Common salt add at the 55-60 degree centigrade

    temp. And stir for 30 minute. After 30 minute 10 ml..Soda

    ash is mixed in the dyestuff solution at the 75 80 degree

    centigrade temp. And stir well for 45 minutes. After this

    Process wash the fabric and neutralize it by treating with

    acetic acid and then finally wash with soap solution for 5-6

    times, washing May continuous till the water becomes clear.

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    Colours of Procion Dyes:

    Cold Brand Colours:

    Red M5RRed M8BYellow M4GGolden Yellow MRYellow M4ROrange M2RMagenta MBViolet MLRViolet MLBViolet MLBTriquesh Blue MGNBlue MRBlue M4R

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    Blue M3RBlue M4R

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    Dyeing on Large Scale:

    These are different types of machines by which one can dye

    a fabric in large quantity

    Jigger Dyeing Machine Winch Dyeing Machine Jet Dyeing Machine Cold padding Machine

    Jigger Dyeing Machine: -

    Jigger dyeing is done under tension. There are three types of

    Jigger M/C:

    Jumbo Jigger rn/c Normal Jigger rn/c Small Baby Jigger rn/c

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    In Jumbo Jigger rn/c, 2500-3000 rnt. of fabric can be dyed. In

    Normal Jigger rn/c 500-2000 mt. of fabric can be dyed.

    In Small Baby Jigger rn/c is also known as sampling rn/c

    400-500 mt. of fabriccan be dyed.

    All kinds of fabric can be dyed except the textured fabric for

    e.g.:- crepe, velvets.

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    Method of Dyeing:

    Colour is added according to the weight of the fabric. The

    capacity of

    water tank varies front 500 liter to 1500 liter. Fabric is

    loaded on roll if jigger

    to the second roll. The fabric is loaded on roll of roll to

    another. The fabric is dyed under tension by roll-to-roll. I

    round of fabric from one rolls to another

    takes 3 5-40 minutes approximately. Jet Dyeing Machine: -

    Dyeing in jet m/c is done under high pressure and high

    temp. in this rn/c these fabric are dyed which can be dyed in

    the rope from for e.g..:- The fabric having fall. i.e., crepe, net

    georgette, shiffon, etc.

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    In this rn/c dyeing is done through high pressure, the colour

    penetration in the fabric done through high pressure. Light

    weight fabrics are used to dyed in this machine. The capacity

    of rn/c varies 60kg to 5 00kg approximately.

    Winch Dyeing Machine: -

    Dyeing in which dyeing machine is done in the rope. Cotton

    and viscose fabric are dyed through winch rn/c fabric like

    gcor get, crepe etc. can he dyed on winch dyeing.

    M/c, water garaged capacity is more than jiggers capacity,

    therefore this rn/c requires more colours as compared to

    other machines.

    Cold Padding Dycing Machine:

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    It cold padding dyeing rn/c cold water is used which carries

    the colour and a well as silicate is used fix the dyestuff in the

    fabric which gives us

    the good washing and rubbing fastness in this process, dry

    fabric is dipped in the colour tank of rn/c containing dour

    and silicate, and press cal through the

    two ftibber rollers and patches in water on the moving rn/c

    for the best result,

    dyed fabric should be washed after 12 hours. Fabric should

    be properly covered with poluthene.

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    Introduction to Printing:

    The printing is used to coloure pattern or designs on textile

    materials other than woven, embroidered or paint designs.

    The material can be of colton, wool, silk, jute. Rayon or any

    synthetic fiber or its blend. It is probably the cheapest

    method of ornamenting textile materials and is ver popular

    because of beautiful effects produced by it. In printing

    process we viii apply the coating of colour on fabric. This

    coating or colour film will make up by

    mixing of some chemicals and also dyestuff after washing

    the extra dyestuff & chemicals will remove out the lime of

    washing and some chemicals will

    extract at the time of steaming or high temp. After will get

    the printed colour fabric.

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    50% - High Gum AGRY (cooked)

    10% - Rongalite C

    6% - Soda ash

    1/2% - Oil Dhara

    335% - water

    100

    Notes - High Gum is ashesive

    Pongalde C (Sodium Suiphoxylate Formaldehyde) is

    disclaiming agent Soda ash is fixing agent & oil Shara is

    thickener

    Discharge printing is done on hot wax table Discharge print

    is obtained the ground shade and produces a white dichasia

    It dyes stable to the discharging agent are incarnated in the

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    discharge paste, then coloured discharged produced by

    simultaneously destroying the ground shade and fixing the

    produced by simultaneously destroying the ground shade

    and fixing the stable illuminating colour Thus in discharge

    printing, the whole cloth is first dyed fully and then printing

    with a paste containing a chemical discharging agent

    Capable of attacking the bye locally the printing cloth is then

    furner treated (steament, washed ete) so that finally ii shows

    a white or light pattern on a coloured background

    Alternatively a second dye resistant to the discharging can

    be incorporated in the paste and the cloth printed with the

    yielding a two colour pattern which would almost

    impossible by a double printing of completer patterns.

    A great advantage of discharge style of printing is that it

    allows of white and coloured patterns being produced on

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    dyed grounds. By dyeing we can obtain depth o shade and

    fullness and brightness of colour unapproachable by any

    process of printing. It is, therefore, of great advantage to be

    able to print upon dyed cloth, a substance which will destroy

    the colour dyed cloth, a

    substance which will destry the colour from printed parts.

    The main limitation of this style is that only those colours,

    which can be dischargeable.

    After printing the fabric is steamed on 20-25% for 20-30

    pound fabric. After steaming, cold washing of fabric is done

    with 0.25% H202, after this Washing with hot water (40

    degree centigrade temp), after this again washing in cold

    water with

    acetic acid after this rinsed & dried the fabric.

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    Colour of Discharge Printing:

    Brown RRDViolet2RRedVioletRENNevy Blue 4 GSTrequesh Blue 4EGolden Yellow G ckLemon Yellow CCLPinkRPink3BOrange3BGreen FEBScarlet GENBlackBG

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    Pigment Printing

    For Paste- (Recipe):

    10% - Binder SLN

    1% - Emulsifer

    % - Water

    83.5% - M.T. Oil (Kerosene oil)

    % - Dap

    3% - Urea

    1.5% - Fixer CCL

    100

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    In this process, a binder emulsion (usually 20%) is first

    prepared and is mixed with pigment dispersion; this paste is

    used for printing.

    Printing Recipe:

    5% - Acramin Pigment dispersion

    95% - Binder Emulsions & Fixer CCL

    100

    Pigment printing is done on cold table, in this printing

    process the fabric is stretched on table by the help of pins, in

    this process a hinder emulsion is first prepared and mixed

    with pigment dispersion. If more binder is required ii call be

    added to above paste. After printing the fabric is dried at 9 0-

    100 degree centigrade till free from keosene and then cured

    in a curing chamber at 120 degree centigrade for 5 minutes.

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    It is then rinsed, soaped with lissapol D. (1 gm. /1) and soda

    ash at boil for V2 hour, rinsed end dried.

    The many advantages of pigment printing this ate

    High production of prints due to elimination of variousafter-treatments.

    Better visibility of the prints which eliminates printingfaults.

    Greater degree of certainty as regards colour matching.High fastness to light.Advisability of complex range of colour.There is certain disadvantages o pigment printingPoor rubbing fastness.Large quantity of kerosene is required for printing. This

    causes obnoxious fumes during curing which pollute the

    atmosphere and infringe solution regulations.

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    Printed Portion is gives harsh feeling on the surface ofthe fabric.

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    Procion Printing For Paste- (Recipe):

    3% - Sodium Alginate gum

    3% - Resist Salt

    3% - Sodium Bi-Carbonate

    1.5% - Sodium hexa Meta phosphate

    89.5% - Water

    100

    Printing Recipe:

    5% - Dye

    95% - Paste

    100

    Procion supra and cibacron Pront dyes are the another name

    the reactive dye. Procion supra dyes were introduced by ICI

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    in 1967; with these dyes. The reaction occurs bat high

    temperature (180 degree centigrade) in the presence of

    alkali so that the dye preferentially reacts with the fiber and

    fixes more dyes on it with the result the less dye has to be

    removed during washing off.

    Procion printing is done on hot wax table. After printing the

    fabric is steamed on 2 0-30% for 30 pound fabric. After

    steaming cold washing of fabric is done 3 time, rinsed,

    soaped with a detergent (Liquid soap) at boil water 70

    degree centigrade & again cold washing with Acetic acid,

    rinsed again& dried.

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