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Drinking Water Disinfection by Jim Mc.

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Water from open sources must always be treated before use. The lack of proper attention to water 

quality can be life threatening. By a review of the literature there appears to be no one way to treatwater to make it safe. As I went through the Blog I found numerous authoritative sounding articlesthat contradicted other equally authorities articles. Unless we can get EPA experts or similar authorities to talk about water quality in WTSHTF conditions and not 4 acre treatment facilitiesyou have to pick your experts and go with them, understanding that none of us have ever beenthere.

There are numerous methods for treating water including osmosis, distillation, ultra violet, boiling,filtering, and chemicals such as chlorine or iodine. Most of these treatments are aimed at biologicalcontamination and each of them has disadvantages in a WTSHTF scenario. (Contaminates mayalso include chemicals but that is beyond the scope here.) I have a preference toward water 

treatment methods that can be applied in a WTSHTF which eliminates the methods requiringsignificant electrical power.

What are we trying to do? How to sterilize water? You don't need to ‘sterilize’ water. Sterilizationis the destruction of all microorganisms in, on and around an object. What is needed is disinfection(killing of pathogenic (disease causing organisms). Another proposal is Pasteurization (less than boiling (149°F) but a temperature high enough to “kill disease causing organisms”.) The exceptionmight be Ultra Violet treatments which don’t kill the organism but leave them so they can’treproduce which makes them harmless.

Biological contaminates consist of microorganisms also called microbes. There are four different

groups. Arranged from largest to smallest they are, fungi, protista, bacteria, and viruses. Thesmallest bacteria which causes human disease is Mycoplasma pneumoniae which is approximately0.2 microns in size. When selecting a microfilter, I want one that filters down to at least 0.2microns (a micron is one micrometer or 0.000001 meter or 1 x 10-6 meter). While effective against bacteria and larger microorganisms, even a good microfilters (0.2 microns) cannot be counted onto filter out viruses unless there is another mechanism to trap or destroy the virus. All the viruses Iam familiar with are smaller in diameter than 0.3 microns, examples include Smallpox 0.250microns, Rabies 0.150 microns, Influenza (Flu) 0.100 microns, and Polio 0.028 microns. Virusesare composed of DNA or RNA surrounded by a protein coat called a capsid. This constructionallows them to be easily destroyed by boiling or chemicals such as iodine or chlorine (bleach).While iodine or chlorine is effective against viruses, it is ineffective against the protista

Cryptosporidium.

(Since the first recorded human case of Cryptosporidiosis in 1976, it has grown to become one of the most common waterborne diseases. In 1993, an outbreak in Milwaukee, Wisconsin infectedapproximately 400,000 residents. 4,400 people had to be hospitalized and the cost of the outbreak was estimated at over $54 million. If this is a problem now, imagine what it would be in WTSHTFscenario. See the CDC web site for additional information.)

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Unfortunately, some bacteria produce spores which can survive extreme conditions. They cansurvive being boiled in water (100 degrees Celsius) for two hours, survive in 70% ethyl alcohol for 20 years, or survive one million REM of radiation (600 REM is fatal to most people). One of themost infamous bacteria that form spores is Bacillus anthracis which causes Anthrax.

Unfortunately we don't know what bad guys are in the water we will get in the future so you makeyour choices and take your chances. Here are some suggestions that might help you make thesechoices. It will always be a juggling act between: Time consumed, cost – energy and financial, andwhat you think you are protecting your selves from.

Many prepper discussions include bleach as a means to add chlorine to the water to be treated butthe shelf life has you moving to the dry pool shock (Calcium hypochlorite) as an easier storageitem and far more concentrated source of chlorine. (Long term storage of Calcium Hypochloritestill need to be resolved because of evidence of slow generation of Chlorine gas.) [JWR Adds:

The main concern is that chlorine gas is corrosive, and will induce rust on any exposed metals thatare nearby, even in very dry climates.]

Calcium Hypochlorite – Mixing From the EPA site: "Granular Calcium Hypochlorite. Add anddissolve one heaping teaspoon of granular calcium hypochlorite (~50%) (Approximately 1/4 ounceor 1 heaping teaspoon) for each two gallons of water. To disinfect water, add the above developedstock (bleach replacement) chlorine solution in the ratio of one part of chlorine solution to each100 parts of water to be treated. This is roughly equal to adding 1 pint (16 oz.) of stock chlorine toeach 12.5 gallons (1,600 oz) of clear water to be disinfected.

It is usually recommend that a three step approach to treating water from open sources befollowed:

1. Pre-filtering. This removes particulate matter. Pouring water though a couple of thicknessof t-shirts or tightly-woven bath towels or coffee filters works fine. The water that comesthrough may still look like tea, but at least you have removed the crud and larger particles.By pre-filtering, you will also extend the life of your water filter. (You avoid clogging themicroscopic pores in the filter media.)

2. Chlorinating. (Iodine – Hydrogen peroxide etc) This can be accomplished followingdirections above

3. Final / fine - Filtering. The large Katadyn or British Berkefeld filters. Some filter elementsavailable for Katadyn or British Berkefeld filters .2 micron rated. (Complete filter systemsand spare filter elements are available from Ready Made Resources, Safecastle, KatadynPocket filter , and other Internet vendors.

Follow up questions needing additional research:

Disease-causing organisms in water are killed by exposure to heat in a process known as pasteurization. Water heated to 65°C (149°F) for a short period of time is free from microbes,including E. coli, Rotaviruses, Guardia and the Hepatitis A virus. A Water Pasteurization

Indicator (WAPI) is a simple thermometer that indicates when water has reached pasteurizationtemperature and is safe to drink. It was invented by Fred Ba rrett and Dale Andreatta. An article

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written by Dr. Bob Metcalf who promotes pasteurization at 149°F stated that it kills Guardia but nomention of the Guardia spores which I have read cannot be killed by boiling?

Lot of discussion on the blog about the non-active ingredients in your Calcium Hypochlorite. Ihave heard some ideas as to what the non active ingredients are and not having an active chemistry

expertise have come to the conclusion that if it is going into a pool it has to be pretty close todrinkable and we are diluting the snot out of it. (Am I copping out?)

When using the purchased filters in step 3 for the final filtering how do you know if the filter isfunctioning? Is it as simple as, when the water will not flow through it, it’s plugged? Is there a wayto regenerate them? In the bigger picture, how long after the WTSHTF will your current stock of extra filters last? In my search to understand using pool shock as a source of chlorine I did someminimum reading about pool filters and have to ask if there is a pool filter that is sand based thatcan be recharged / regenerated mechanically. I try to always look at techniques in two perspectives,short term while stored supplies last and long term, what do you do when your chlorine is gone andall your micro pore filters are clogged. Regenerating a sand filter has a nice ring to it. I have never 

owned a pool and have no experience with this. Can anyone tell me if this is reasonable? Couldthis type of filter get you close to the .2 micron goal of the purchased filters

Has anyone looked into the long term storage of Calcium Hypochlorite. It is sold in plastic bagsthat I fear contain it as well as gunny sacks contain grain dust. Short term answers appear to beglass containers that depend on rubber gaskets. I have seen rubber gaskets become dry, brittle andworthless with no more than just age. Is there a better storage mode?

I am consistently impressed with how dummied down things like mixing Calcium Hypochlorite tomake a stock solution of how much of the stock solution to put in drinking water. It leaves mewondering how may preppers reload their own ammunition. If this is a reasonable number, as I

think it might be, then we all have access to a very accurate scale and can move to exactmeasurements vs heaping teaspoons. Is there a reason for not using this cross subject expertise?

I may have just received an answer to some of my question about killing things like giardia cyst. Iam still rereading and trying to digest this article. Vinegar anyone?

Addendum: I just got through to a customer rep for PPG, the makers of the Calcium Hypochloritefor the 73% Pool Shock I bought from Leslie's. He told me that the balance of 27% in this productis NaCl (table salt) and chemically bound water. (This product is used in potable water treatmentsystems.)

The other question was about long term storage because I have been told by people that they get achlorine gas smell in a closed closet. He said that the proper storage would be dark, cool and wellventilated. I asked about the results of storing it in a sealed container. He said that this would not be a good idea because you end up with a pressurized container of chlorine gas. You cannot stopthe slow decomposition to chlorine gas. Their product has a 73% guaranteed available chlorine for one year from manufacture.

 

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Prepping? Water Above All Else!, by David R.

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As I type on my photovoltaic-powered desktop computer and consider the most important

 preparation I’ve made to “survive and thrive,” undoubtedly, it has been procuring sizable amountsof potable water. Think about it. Yes, you need defensive measures (got ‘em). Yes, you need food(got that too), but none of us can survive, let alone thrive, without a bare minimum of a gallon of water a day per person. That’s a lot of water if you are shooting for a year’s supply or more. For the average family of four, that’s nearly 1,500 gallons a year! That is just to survive. What aboutfeeding animals or livestock, growing a garden, bartering, or simply bathing? Your needs will far exceed the menagerie of 2-liter plastic bottles you may be collecting and cluttering in your garage.

How it all started

My journey for a sustainable and renewable water source, coupled with substantial storage, beganin 2006 when I moved to the country in Central Texas. I thought digging my own well (more than

400 feet before hitting a local aquifer) would suffice. No, it’s not publicly produced water, and yes,its drinkable (just barely) but if stuff does hit the fan and we are off line permanently, my limitedsolar power will not pump out water 400 feet deep. I needed a more cost effective and viablealternative. I found it. It came from above in the form of rain.

Yes, collecting and storing rain water is the easiest and most practical way to secure enough water to meet your needs, wants, and perhaps the needs of others who would trade a pound of gold for agallon of drinkable water when none can be found. It is so simple; I can’t imagine why more people don’t do it. Maybe it seems too “green” or too antiquated. Perhaps it’s like the publiclibrary no body uses because its “free,” or maybe, just maybe, we’ve been conditioned to believewater has to come from the ground first before we can drink it up. I can assure you it does not. In

fact, my family drinks rain water almost exclusively. Moreover, my young boys have become whatI call “water snobs.” Rain water is so delicious, so pure in taste these picky kids of mine don’t evenlike the bottled stuff anymore. I have to agree. Nothing is more refreshing (and void of whatever God didn’t want in it) than rain water from on high.

Constructing Your Own System

So how did I do it? How did I make rain water collection and consumption part of my dailyroutine? It started simply enough. First, I determined where to store the water. Admittedly, thiswas easy for me. I live on nearly 10 acres of land with no zoning laws, permits or other governmental interference. God love Texas! Anyway, I needed a way to store as much water as possible. My family (four of us at that time) would require the bare minimum of 1,500 gallons of 

water a year that I mentioned, so I doubled it. I purchased two 1,500 gallon black plastic water storage containers from a local farming supply. Tractor Supply also sells these containers indifferent sizes as well. I paid $600 each for mine.

I was cautious to purchase black containers, not because they’d match my Texas limestone farmhouse (they do not), but because black keeps algae from growing in your tanks. Sun and water in aclear container will produce this unwanted green goo. Solid green containers will also do the trick, but again, whatever you do, stay way from clear containers even if you think it’s a practical way to

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see how much water you’ve collected. You’ll see more than water collecting. I promise.

 Now before you conclude that you can’t possibly put a 1,500 gallon tank next to the swing set inyour back yard (your wife would kill you) or you can’t afford such large containers, understandthat water tanks come in all sizes and shapes. Start small. Consider a 50 gallon drum. Just be

careful that the drums you procure weren’t used for storing anything other than water. It is best toget new water storage tanks if possible. Remember water is more important than anything else youmay store. I prefer plastic containers because they are less expensive, lighter and don’t rust, but professional cisterns or storage containers can be galvanized metal which are less likely to be punctured.

When positioning your water tanks consider either back corner of your home. Yes, you can put awater container near a front corner of your home, but then everyone will see just what you aredoing, and who knows if one day a stray bullet (or a not so stray bullet) doesn’t puncture your container and spew forth real liquid gold. Corners are good places for your tanks because they areclose to the down spout of your gutter system. Keep in mind, plastic water tanks are meant for 

above ground. If you bury them they may collapse.

When I first built my home I didn’t care about putting in a gutter system, but collecting rain water requires it. I chose galvanized metal gutters because they are more durable than the plastic ones(which I’ve seen bleach and almost melt in the Texas sun). I don’t know that it’s an issue, but Ialso don’t want any plastics breaking down in my rain water. If you are putting in new gutters,make sure they are at a slight angle with the down spout being at the lowest point near your water tank. You want gravity on your side. Gravity is a major factor in ensuring water comes from thesky to your roof to your tank and to a smaller container for transport (more on that later). Think about clearing or cutting back trees that may hang over your gutters. Leaves, branches and twigscan clog them or even enter your storage tank(s).

The biggest difference between a standard gutter system and a rain water collecting system iswhere your water goes. Collecting rain requires you to remove your standard down spout. Youdon’t want the rain running down the pavement into the street. You want it going into your tank.To get the water from my gutter to the tanks, I used pipe strapping to connect approximately four feet of three inch PVC pipe directly under the corner gutter joint with the hole. Use an elbow jointat the top (larger than the gutter hole) and run the pipe vertically to a tee joint. The other side of thetee will connect to more pipe with an elbow down to the top of your tank. You will likely needreducer couplers to go from 3 inch wide piping to two inch. It depends on the width of the openingon the top of your tank. The length of your piping depends on how far away your tank is from theroof. Measuring and planning is key.

The vertical or bottom part of the tee joint (between your roof and your tank) will connect toanother three inch pipe down to the ground (about six to eight feet). This piping is called a “firstflush.” It looks like an upside down candy cane (or down spout). At the bottom (the crook part) isanother elbow fitting which is threaded for a drain plug. When it rains the first flush is plugged. Its purpose is to catch some of the debris or dirt that collects on your roof when it first begins to rain.Once the first flush fills up, the water will continue into your tank where you need to use athreaded fitting, usually female on the pipe joint and male on the tank. Make sure you empty the

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first flush after every rain. You’d be surprised how dirty this captured water is. If it has been a longtime since the last rain, leave the first flush unplugged for a few minutes to wash out the excess dirtand debris your roof has likely collected.

I use a T-post to secure the first flush PVC pipe to the ground. Because I have two tanks they are

connected together at the top and at the bottom with two inch wide PVC pipes (my tanks haveopenings both at the top and the bottom). This allows the tanks to both be filled up at the sametime and to remove water from them at the same time. In the middle of the 2 inch PVC pipe at the bottom I have another tee joint connected up to a pipe with an elbow joint and then connected to acopper faucet or spigot. I mentioned earlier that gravity is your friend. The weight of the water allows a decent amount of pressure to push water up the pipe and through the spigot. You’re notgoing to power wash a car, but you can fill a five gallon bucket or water jug in no time without theneed for electricity. All pipes will need appropriate fittings where they are connected to your tank(s).

How much can I collect?

So how much water can I collect? There are three factors that determine this. First, how big isyour roof? Second, how much does it rain where you live and third, what is the capacity of your storage container(s)? For example, I have a 2000 square foot home, but I only collect water off of one side of the house. That being said, one or two good inches of rain can totally fill my two 1,500gallon tanks. It is amazing to see just how quickly they fill up from a good rainstorm. Even duringthe Texas drought last year, my two tanks were never empty.

My neighbor has seven 1000 gallon tanks and uses rain water exclusively for cooking, washing,drinking and all his water needs. He has yet to see his tanks empty. As long as it continues to rainand your storage tanks are relatively large (500 to 1000 gallons) you will be pleasantly surprisedhow much water you can collect and store. Again, you may have to start small as time and money

allows, but as you add more tanks (and in my case more gutters) your capacity for storage willexceed your needs and may provide for others who are not as prepared as you.

Is it really safe?

Admittedly, we do not use rain water exclusively, but it does provide for all of our cooking anddrinking water needs. Every day or so, my son retrieves five gallons from the tanks. The water isthen poured into a Berkey Water filtration system (gravity filtered). Nothing tastes better. I assureyou. My neighbor uses a UV light sterilization system that filters all incoming water to his house by passing by a UV light. From my research, the only possible contamination I am truly concernedwith is bird droppings on my roof which could cause illness in untreated rainwater. If possible, andif you have more rain than storage ability, consider rotating your water before the big storm comesin. If not, you can also add appropriate amounts of bleach, iodine or water purification tablets rightinto your water storage tank.

Some have also asked me what kind of roof is safest for collecting rain water. Optimally, a metalroof is best, but my brother has the same rain water collection system I do (I helped him install it)with a standard shake roof. He uses a Berkey system as well. He contacted the roofingmanufacturer and they said there was nothing unsafe in their roofing materials. Unless your roof ismore than 15 years old, there shouldn’t be anything in the roofing material that would cause you

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harm. To be safe you can have your rain water tested, but in truth it’s probably much safer thanwhat your local water company is brewing. In an emergency there would be no question about this.

Lessons Learned

Experience (daily use) has taught me some hard lessons with my rain water collection. First andforemost, glue all of your PVC pieces together. I was a bit on the lazy impatient side and thought,well there’s no water pressure on the feed pipes, so why not just hand fit everything? That was a bad idea. A few good winds knocked everything down, and all of my water leaked out of my pipesat the bottom. Also, consider placing a ball spigot between your tank and pipes at the bottom. Thisway if a pipe breaks you can turn off the water to your tank. Having two tanks in tandem allowsyou to fill them both up simultaneously, but it also allows them both to empty at the same time if a pipe breaks, or if one your children leaves the spigot open. Once they are both filled, I shut onetank off and use it as a back up.

Your PVC pipes are above ground, so they are subject to freezing if they are full of water. I shut

 both tanks off at the bottom with my ball spigots first and then let the remaining water out of themiddle spigot. I wrap both ball spigots with old cloth diapers during the winter. Yes, it’s hot inTexas, but it can get cold too. As long as your pipes are empty, and the spigots at the bottom of your tank(s) are covered, they shouldn’t crack. However, nothing is fool proof. Keep extra PVC

fittings on hand. I hate running into town (spending $10 on gas) for a two dollar fitting. In a trueemergency, you will be the hardware store. I have extra elbows, couplers, (connects two pipestogether) spigots and PVC pipe glue, not to mention extra lengths of pipe. Again, nothing isfailsafe and nothing lasts forever.

Whatever you do, don’t install your rain water system, walk away from it and think it will be readywhen you need it. It only takes a minute to visually inspect your system for cracks, loose fittings,clogged gutters or water puddles. If you have small children as I do, water play is a temptation andleaving spigots open is common. You’d be surprised just how fast water can drain out of a 1,500gallon tank. Get in the habit of using your rainwater, so that it’s part of who you are now, not justwhen an emergency arises.Conclusion

Five years after installing my rain water collection system, I couldn’t be happier. My wife nolonger lugs in store bought drinking water, and I no longer pay for it. More importantly, if it doeshit the fan, I see those full tanks outside my home and know I can irrigate my garden, put water inmy toilets (I have a septic system), see to our bathing needs and most importantly ensure myfamily will drink and cook with water that is as pure as nature intended it to be. Hit the fan if itmust. We are water prepared!

 

Letter Re: An Inexpensive Approach to Underground

Rainwater Storage

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Hi,I know that you have had stuff on about rain harvesting over the years. I thought I would add my$0.02 worth. I live in a dry climate in the west. We’ve had many fires this summer so water is anissue here. We get rain in the summer, but it can be sporadic and voluminous when it does come.So, in order to even things out I wanted to be able to capture some of it for future use. I was trying

to figure out how to do it inexpensively. I wanted to bury whatever I did for reasons of  OPSEC andalso because it freezes here and I want to be able to store water throughout the year. I looked at alot of options but they were all pretty expensive. Then I came across a local company that sellsused food grade liquid totes. These are the 275 gallon variety with the metal cage around them. Iwas able to check some of these out. Although the plastic is not so stout (they are meant to holdliquid in, not any external pressure) with the metal cage I thought they would do what I needed. I bought four of them so I would have a storage capacity of about 1,100 gallons. These totes areabout a 4 foot cube. I used a mini excavator to dig the hole. I made it 16 feet long, 5 feet wide and4 feet deep. If I had it to do over again I would make the hole 6 feet wide to allow better access toconnect the totes to each other. Once the hole was dug, I began to place the totes in it. I first placedtwo totes and connected them to each other with PVC pipe, leaving a stub for the next. Then I

 placed the following two, connecting them to the others as I placed them. Once I had all theconnections made, I placed concrete backer board all around the outside of the totes up against themetal frame and backfilled. This way the force of the earth - when backfilled – would be againstthe concrete backer board and the metal frames, not against the plastic sides of the totes. I thencovered the tops of the totes with ¾ inch pressure treated plywood backed with 2x4s to hold the 8inch or so layer of dirt that I put on top of the totes. I cut holes in the top of the plywood to allowaccess to the top caps of the two outermost totes. One is to allow the drainage system from mygutters to fill the totes. I routed all my gutters into drain pipe that comes to the where the totes are buried. I also built a small filter box to filter off any debris that comes through the gutters and grain pipes and then the filtered water flows into the totes. Any debris that makes it through the filter should will settle out in the first or second tote and not make it to the last tote – the other one witha hole in the plywood for access. This hole is to allow access to the water. I currently have a well pump in the last tote to pump water out for irrigation. This could also be used to access the water to fill buckets via a hand pump or a variety of other methods. So far it has worked fine for me.Anyone wanting to try this may want to check local water law in their area. It is not legal to harvestrain water in this way in many states. These totes are not meant to hold side loads, but they are meant to hold vertical loads. They aredesigned to be stacked two high. A tote, when full, weighs well over 2,000 lbs. So, to have a layer of dirt on top is no problem as long as the plywood can support it, the tote can too. With the metalframe and the backer board on the sides they should be fine for side loads too. Even if they had noframe, as long as they have water in them they would never collapse from the weight of thesurrounding dirt. With the metal frame and backer board they will be fine for those periods whenthey are closer to empty. I hope to never run them completely dry, but if it does happen for a time Idon’t worry about them being crushed by earth pressure because of the surrounding support provided by their own frames and the backer board to distribute the load onto the frame. In any case, they are full today and I am enjoying having a large volume of water stored for anyfuture need. Best Regards, - Tim P.

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JWR Replies: Your clever idea just earned you a BFO Award, with an Amazon.com gift card togo along with it. Congrats!