Document

PRODUCTIVITY IMPROVEMENT IN MTM

CUTTING SECTION USING LEAN CONCEPTS

-A case study at Silver Spark Apparel Limited

A dissertation submitted in partial Fulfillment

Of the requirement for the award of Degree in

Bachelor of Fashion Technology (Apparel Production)

Submitted By

MD JAWED AKHTAR

Under the Guidance of

MR. T.V.S.N. Murthy

Department of Fashion Technology

National Institute of Fashion Technology, Hyderabad

May, 2014

ABSTRACT

The Made to Measure is a nascent business in India and catching the eyes of customers

rapidly. The company needed to increase its capacity in response to the increased

demand.The company has increased the number of MTM shops from 71 to 82 and has been

planning further to open more MTM outlets. In response to the increase in demand the

company needs to increase its production capacity also. But Cutting Department is the

bottleneck point. Hence, there is a need to increase the capacity of this section.

This dissertation provides comprehensive details of productivity improvement through NVA

elimination and one-piece flow implementation in MTM cutting department, Silver Spark

Apparel Limited, Doddaballapur. One-piece flow (also commonly referred to as continuous

flow manufacturing) is a technique used to manufacture components in a cellular

environment. The goals of one piece flow are: to make one part at a time correctly all the

time, to achieve this without unplanned interruptions, to achieve this without lengthy queue

times.

In this work existing layout was studied followed by method study and time study and then

new layout and improved working methods were proposed to enhance the capacity of the

department. In the process several non-value added activities were also eliminated. As in one

piece flow sequential movement of piece is necessary without wastage of transportation, a

conveyor system has been introduced which works like a pull system leading to increased

productivity and reduced lead time.

Key Words: Lean Manufacturing, One-piece Flow, Process Improvement, Standard Work in

Progress (SWIP).

i

CERTIFICATE

“This is to certify that this Project Report titled “PRODUCTIVITY IMPROVEMENT IN

MTM CUTTING SECTION USING LEAN CONCEPTS” is based on my, MD JAWED

AKHTAR, original research work, conducted under the guidance of MR. T.V.S.N. Murthy

towards partial fulfillment of the requirement for award of the Bachelor’s Degree in Fashion

Technology (Apparel Production), of the National Institute of Fashion Technology,

Hyderabad.

No part of this work has been copied from any other source. Material, wherever borrowed

has been duly acknowledged.”

Signature of Author

Signature of Guide

ii

ACKNOWLEDGEMENT

I would like to express my eternal gratitude to my mentor, Mr. Varun Mishra, for his support

and encouragement throughout my graduation project. His mentorship was paramount in

providing a well-rounded experience consistent with my long-term career goals. I extend my

gratitude to him for finding time for listening to little problems and roadblocks that

unavoidably cropped up in course of project implementation.

My thanks also go to Mr. Nitesh Srivastava, MTM Assistant Manager, for giving an

opportunity to work in his department and for his support and guidance throughout the

project. I am also thankful to Mr. Lingappa, Cutting Supervisor, who provided first-hand

information and coordinated in the implementation. It will be grave injustice if I don’t

mention the name of Mr. Pokhraj, Maintenance Head, who converted my ideas into reality.

I would like to thank my college mentor, Mr. T.V.S.N. Murthy, Assistant Professor, DFT,

NIFT, Hyderabad, for his valuable guidance, feedback and encouragement that he provided

throughout my project. His editorial skill helped a lot in the preparation of this dissertation.

His support and encouragement was in the end what made this dissertation possible.

I would like to thank the Department of Fashion Technology, NIFT, Hyderabad, especially

faculty members for their input, valuable discussion and accessibility. It was their continuous

guidance which helped me complete my project.

Finally and most importantly, the friendship of Miss Juhi Kumari, Miss Shweta Yadav and

Mr. Sanjeeb Kumar Naik is much appreciated and has led to many interesting and good

spirited discussion relating to the project. Their critical analysis of the various ideas led to

many successful implementations.

iii

Table of Contents

ABSTARCT…………………………………………………………………...…………………..........i

CERTIFICATE…………………………………………………………….….…………………...…..ii

ACKNOWLEDGEMENT…………………………………………………….………………..…….iii

GLOSSARY…………………………………………………………………….…………………….x

Chapter 1 INTRODUCTION....................................................................................................2

1.1 Project Objectives.......................................................................................................2

1.2 Problems Definition....................................................................................................2

1.3 Project Scope and Constraints.....................................................................................3

1.4 Key Project Benefits...................................................................................................3

1.5 Made To Measure – An Introduction..........................................................................3

Chapter 2 LITERATURE REVIEW.........................................................................................8

2.1 Lean Manufacturing....................................................................................................8

2.1.1 What is Lean?......................................................................................................8

2.1.2 Wastes in Lean Manufacturing............................................................................9

2.1.3 Lean Approach...................................................................................................11

2.2 One-Piece Flow.........................................................................................................12

2.2.1 Introduction........................................................................................................12

2.2.2 Why is using One-Piece Flow important in production?...................................12

2.3 Lead Time.................................................................................................................14

2.1 Method Study............................................................................................................16

2.2 Time Study................................................................................................................17

2.3 Standard Work In Progress (SWIP)..........................................................................18

iv

Chapter 3 METHODOLOGY..................................................................................................20

Chapter 4 EXISTING SYSTEM.............................................................................................22

4.1 Process Flow of MTM Department..........................................................................22

4.2 Process Flow in Cutting Department........................................................................22

4.3 SOP for Cutting Department.....................................................................................24

Chapter 5 DATA COLLECTION AND ANALYSIS.............................................................29

6.1 Cycle Time for Various Operations in Cutting Department.....................................29

6.2 Existing Capacity Calculation...................................................................................31

6.3 Existing capacity summary.......................................................................................35

Chapter 6 IMPLEMENTED SYSTEM...................................................................................37

6.1 Caveat to One-Piece Flow System............................................................................37

6.2 Conveyor System......................................................................................................39

6.3 Non-Value Added (NVA) Activities Elimination....................................................46

6.3.1 Laying................................................................................................................46

6.3.2 Block Cutting.....................................................................................................49

6.3.3 Fusing Cutting...................................................................................................52

6.3.4 Ready Cutting....................................................................................................55

6.4 Sequential Movement (FIFO)...................................................................................59

6.4.1 A Track Sheet Holder at Pattern Cutting Machine............................................60

6.4.2 Fabric Holding Stand in Store...........................................................................60

6.5 Emergency Order Handling Flag System.................................................................64

6.4 New Capacity Calculation........................................................................................66

6.5 New capacity summary.............................................................................................69

Chapter 7 PROJECT COST.....................................................................................................71

v

8.1 Project Costing..........................................................................................................71

Chapter 8 RESULTS AND SAVINGS...................................................................................74

Chapter 9 LIMITATIONS AND SCOPE OF FURTHER STUDY........................................77

Chapter 10 CONCLUSION.....................................................................................................79

APPENDICES AND ANNEXTURES………………………………………………………81

vi

List of Figures

Figure 1.1 MTM Flow Diagram...............................................................................................5

Figure 2.1 Batch and queue flow vs One-piece flow...............................................................12

Figure 3.1: Methodology Diagram..........................................................................................20

Figure 4.1: Process Flow of MTM Department.......................................................................22

Figure 4.2: Process flow diagram of cutting department.........................................................22

Figure 4.3: Existing layout of cutting department...................................................................23

Figure 4.4: Cutting Department...............................................................................................23

Figure 6.1: Implemented Process Flow with Conveyor..........................................................39

Figure 6.2: Conveyor System..................................................................................................40

Figure 6.3: Conveyor Basket...................................................................................................41

Figure 6.4: MS square Pipe.....................................................................................................42

Figure 6.5: Bush.......................................................................................................................43

Figure 6.6: J-Hook...................................................................................................................43

Figure 6.7: GI Pipe..................................................................................................................44

Figure 6.8: Wheel....................................................................................................................44

Figure 6.9: Lining Cutting Process..........................................................................................47

Figure 6.10: Lining Stand........................................................................................................47

Figure 6.11: Tucking for Checks and stripes matching using hand needle.............................48

vii

Figure 6.12: Tucking for Checks and stripes matching using Tag Gun..................................49

Figure 6.13: Previous Cutting Process.....................................................................................50

Figure 6.14: Implemented Process..........................................................................................51

Figure 6.15: Previous Fusing Cutting Flow Diagram..............................................................52

Figure 6.16: Previous Fusing Cutting Flow.............................................................................52

Figure 6.17: New Fusing Cutting Flow Diagram....................................................................53

Figure 6.18: New Fusing Cutting Flow...................................................................................53

Figure 6.19: Pattern Stand.......................................................................................................55

Figure 6.20: Ready Cutting......................................................................................................56

Figure 6.21: Rotary Knife for Ready Cutting..........................................................................56

Figure 6.22: Pattern Movement Along With Trolley..............................................................57

Figure 6.23: Color Coding and a Color Coded Track sheet....................................................59

Figure 6.24: FIFO Stand at Pattern Cutter...............................................................................60

Figure 6.25: Cut Fabric for laying...........................................................................................61

Figure 6.26: Piled up fabrics falling and mixing.....................................................................62

Figure 6.27: Stand for cut fabric in the store...........................................................................62

Figure 6.28: Emergency Order Handling System (Previous)..................................................64

Figure 6.29 Emergency Order Handling System (Implemented)............................................65

viii

List of Tables

Table 2.1 One Piece Flow vs. Batch Flow System (Michal Marton)......................................13

Table 2.2: Method Study Steps (Kanawaty, 1992)..................................................................16

Table 5.1: Cycle Time for Jacket.............................................................................................29

Table 5.2: Cycle Time for Trouser..........................................................................................30

Table 5.3: Existing Capacity Summary...................................................................................35

Table 6.1 New Capacity Summary..........................................................................................69

ix

GLOSSARY

MTM: Made to measure (MTM) typically refers to the clothing that is sewn

from a standard size base pattern. The base pattern is altered according

to the measurement & fit required by the particular customer.

TRACK SHEET: The specification sheet which various informations like measurement

details, fabrics details, barcode for tracking, and color coding for day-

wise movement.

ORDER: An order refers to the customer booking for a particular garment or

garments. Generally an order has 1-5 suits 0r 1-10 trousers or a

combination of both. The order doesn’t contain large quantities like in

mass production.

BLOCK CUTTING: The cutting done according to marker planning having 2 cm extra

allowances for shrinkage consideration after fusing and stripes and

check matching.

READY CUTTING: The block cut parts are re-cut using paper pattern matching stripes and

checks within a margin of error of 1 mm.

x

CHAPTER 1INTRODUCTION

1

CHAPTER 1

INTRODUCTION

1.1 Project Objectives

Primary Objective:

Productivity Improvement and Lead time reduction in MTM cutting department

by one piece flow implementation using Conveyor System

Secondary Objectives:

To increase productivity of MTM cutting department

To maintain continuous and streamlined flow of materials

Eliminate NVA

Reduce lead time

Improve order tracking

1.2 Problems Definition

Decreased productivity due to excessive NVA

Increased lead time due to extra WIP

Missing and mixing of parts

Difficulty in order tracking

No co-ordination between CAD and cutting department

No systematic movement of emergency orders

2

1.3 Project Scope and Constraints

The scope of this project includes analyzing the existing process, particularly identifying the

non-value added activities and thereby elimination of such activities. It also includes

maintaining a continuous flow and a standard work in progress (SWIP) which will require

sequential flow of materials.

Deliverables of the project includes improved productivity with increased visibility and

better order tracking.

The scope doesn’t include the process re-engineering. Rather, it’s a continuous improvement.

The constraint of the project is limited working area.

1.4 Key Project Benefits

Considerable increase in productivity

Streamlined flow of materials

Reduced throughput time

Improved order tracking

Work Place visualization

1.5 Made To Measure – An Introduction

Raymond Group Company provides a mass customization to customers of suits and trousers.

Made to measure typically refers to the clothing that is sewn from a standard size base

pattern. The base pattern is altered according to the measurement & fit required by the

particular customer. The concept behind made-to-measure is to provide the customer a

tailored fit garment with high quality like readymade garments, with the fabric, trims, style &

design according to the need of the customer. Since the made to measure garment is

manufactured by following the traditional method of measurement and industrial method of

manufacturing with much attention to minute detailing, its quality is like and even better than

the ready to wear garments.

3

The steps followed by made-to-measure can be summarized as:-

Taking measurements of the customer.

Getting the closest tryon garment and trying that on the garment.

Pinning the trial garment according to the need and fit of the customer

Taking the pictures to help the pattern master to understand the fit requirement

and to work on intuition.

Selection of the fabric, style by the customer

Conveying all the collected data to the manufacturing unit

Selecting the base size and doing the alteration according to the need of the

customer

Developing the customized garment

Made to measure differs from ready to wear garments

The garment is made according to the measurement of the customer, so it gives a

proper fit.

MTM garments are made in industrial way with advanced technology and thus

minimize human errors.

MTM gives the customer the advantage of choosing the fabric, style and trims.

MTM allows the customer to customize the garment from start to finish.

The final garment produced is of high quality.

4

Working Process Flow Of Made To Measure Garment

Figure 1.1 MTM Flow Diagram

5

Receive order from customer at the Retail Store

Style and Fabric selection by the customer

Measurement of the chest& waist to decide the try on Size and Drop

Customer tries the Try on of the Drop & Size

Taking measurements and filling the same in the Shop Order Form

Checking the fitting problems and pinning the Try Ons at the places where alteration needs to be done

Taking photographs of the Fit & Pinning done for Alterations

Sending the measurement, Style details, photographs and Shop Order Form to the Manufacturing Unit

CAD Department receives the Details

Cutting, Stitching, Sewing processes is done

Product Finishing & Checking

Delivery to the Customer

Terminology Frequently Used In Made To Measure (MTM Department)

Try ons- try ons are the jacket/ trouser/ waist coat which is of different sizes and styles. It is

the set from which a customer uses for the trial purpose. It is always kept in the retail store/

shop floor for the trial basis. For men, the try on set is of 5 different drops (0, 2, 4, 6, and 8)

from sizes.

Jacket/ trouser size- the sizes correspond to the half of the chest measurement (for jacket)

and half of the waist measurement (for trouser). As an example if the chest is of 100 cm the

size of the jacket is 50. And if the waist is 80cm the size of the trouser is 40.

Drop- it is defined as difference as the difference between half of chest measurement and

half of waist measurement.

.

100/2 = 50

88/2 = 44

102/2 = 51 so, here drop is (50-44 = 6)

For drop:

2: 44-64 - (11 sizes)

4: 44-64 - (11 sizes)

6: 44-64 - (11 sizes)

8: 42-64 - (12 sizes)

0: 44-70 - (14 sizes)

6

CHAPTER 2

LITERATURE REVIEW

7

CHAPTER 2

LITERATURE REVIEW

2.1 Lean Manufacturing

2.1.1 What is Lean?

Lean Manufacturing can be defined as "A systematic approach to identifying and eliminating

waste through continuous improvement by moving the product at the demand of the

customer." Taiichi Ohno once said that “Lean Manufacturing is all about looking at the time

line from the moment the customer gives us an order to the point when we collect the cash.

And we are reducing that time line by removing the non – value added wastes” (Ohno, 1988).

Lean always focuses on identifying and eliminating waste and fully utilizing the activities

that add value to the final product. From the customer point of view, value is equivalent to

anything he is willing to pay for the product or service he receives. Formally value adding

activities can be defined as: activities that transform materials and information into products

and services the customer wants. On the other hand non-value adding activities can be

defined as: activities that consume resources, but do not directly contribute to product or

service. This non-value adding activities are the waste in Lean Manufacturing. Waste can be

generated due to poor layout (distance), long setup times, incapable processes, poor

maintenance practices, poor work methods, lack of training, large batches, ineffective

production planning/scheduling, lack of workplace organization etc.

By eliminating wastes in the overall process, through continuous improvements the product’s

lead time can be reduced remarkably. By reducing lead time organization can obtain

operational benefits (enhancement of productivity, reduction in work-in-process inventory,

improvement in quality, reduction of space utilization and better work place organization) as

well as administrative benefits (reduction in order processing errors, streamlining of

8

customer service functions so that customers are no longer placed on hold, reduction of

paperwork in office areas, reduction of labor turnover)

2.1.2 Wastes in Lean Manufacturing

The waste can be categorized into seven types which are commonly referred to as the “Seven

wastes”. Taiichi Ohno suggests that these account for up to 95% of all costs in non – Lean

Manufacturing environments. These wastes are:

Overproduction – Producing more than the customer demands. There are two types of

overproduction (Shingo, 1989):

1. Quantitative – making more products than needed.

2. Early – making products before needed.

Overproduction is highly costly to a manufacturing plant because it obstructs the

smooth flow of materials and degrades the quality and productivity. Overproduction

manufacturing is referred to as “Just in Case” whereas Lean Manufacturing is referred

to as “Just in Time” (McBride, 2003).The corresponding Lean principle is to

manufacture based upon a pull system, or producing products just as customers order

them. Anything produced beyond customer order ties up valuable labor and material

resources that might otherwise be used to respond to customer demand.

Ohno considered the fundamental waste to be overproduction, since it leads to other

wastes such as overstaffing, storage, and transportation costs because of excess

inventory.

Waiting – Whenever goods are not being moving or being processed, the waste,

waiting occurs. Typically more than 99% of a product’s life cycle time in traditional

mass production is spent in idling. This includes waiting for material, labor,

information, equipment etc. Lean requires that all resources are provided on a just-in-

time (JIT) basis – not too soon, not too late by linking processes together so that one

feeds directly into the next and can dramatically reduce waiting.

9

Transportation or conveyance – Moving product between processes does not add

value to the product. Excessive movements and handlings can cause damages and can

lead to reduction in quality. Materials should be delivered to its point of use. Lean

requires the material be shipped directly from the vendor to the location in the

assembly line where it will be used. This is called Point-Of-Use-Storage (POUS).

Over processing or incorrect processing – Taking unneeded steps to process the parts.

Some of the more common examples of this are reworking, inspecting, rechecking

etc. This is due to poor layout, poor tools and poor product design, causing

unnecessary motion and producing defects.

Excess Inventory – Any type of inventory (raw material or in process or finish goods)

does not add value to the product and it should be eliminated or reduced. Excess

inventory uses valuable floor space and hides problems related to process

incapability. Excess inventory results in longer lead times, obsolescence, damaged

goods, transportation and storage costs, and delay.

Defects – Defects can be either production defects or service errors. Having a defect

results a tremendous cost to organizations. In most of the organizations the total cost

of defects is often a significant percentage of total manufacturing cost. Repairing of

rework, replacement production and inspection means wasteful handling time, and

effort.

Excess Motion – Any motion that employee has to perform which does not add value

the product is an unnecessary or excess motion. Unnecessary motion is caused by

poor workflow, poor layout, poor housekeeping, and inconsistent or undocumented

work methods.

10

2.1.3 Lean Approach

Lean organizations are highly customer focused, providing the highest quality, lowest cost

products in the shortest lead time possible. According to the book “Lean Thinking” by James

P. Womack and Daniel Jones, the Lean approach can be summarized in five principles

(Womack and Jones, 2003):

Specify what creates value from the customer’s perspective - Value should be

specified from the customer point of view not by the perspective of individual firms,

functions and departments. If the customer does not pay for an activity, it is a non-

value adding activity and should be eliminated.

Identify all the steps along the process chain – This means identifying the value

stream. It can be used to identify activities where value is added to the product and

those do not.

Make those processes flow – The value added product must flow continuously from

the start to finish without interruptions, detours, backflows, waiting, scrap and

stoppages.

Make only what is pulled by the customer – The customer should pull the product

from the source as needed rather than process pushing the products onto the customer.

Strive for perfection – After implementing above steps the team should be

continuously remove wastes as they are uncovered and pursue perfection through

continuous improvement.

Lean uses practically proven tools and techniques to systematically implement these Lean

principles. If these are correctly applied, it will bring improvements to quality, cost and

delivery of the final product. Those tools help in implementing, monitoring, and evaluating

Lean efforts and its results. On the other hand if these were used without proper

understanding, it can spoil Lean efforts in one’s organization.

11

2.2 One-Piece Flow

2.2.1 Introduction

One-piece flow (also commonly referred to as continuous flow manufacturing) is a technique

used to manufacture components in a cellular environment. The cell is an area where

everything that is needed to process the part is within easy reach, and no part is allowed to go

to the next operation until the previous operation has been completed. The goals of one piece

flow are: to make one part at a time correctly all the time, to achieve this without unplanned

interruptions, and to achieve this without lengthy queue times.

One-piece flow describes the sequence of product or of transactional activities through a

process one unit at a time. In contrast, batch processing creates a large number of products or

works on a large number of transactions at one time – sending them together as a group

through each operational step. In one-piece flow, focus is on the product or on the

transactional process, rather than on the waiting, transporting, and storage. One-piece flow

methods need short changeover times and are conducive to a pull system.

2.2.2 Why is using One-Piece Flow important in production?

The following illustration shows the impact of batch size reduction when comparing batch

and one-piece flow.

Figure 2.2 Batch and queue flow vsOne-piece flow

12

The difference between the two systems is conspicuous through the depicted diagram

(Figure.1 and Figure.2).First; one-piece flow system saved 18 minutes for the same batch of

10 pieces. This shows dramatic improvement in production capacity.

Second, first piece was in processed only 3minutes. Unlike batch system, one piece flow

allows operator to check a part immediately in each process (A, B and C). If there is any

quality issues it will be detected too late and many parts will be damaged..

Impacts One Piece Flow Batch System

Operations

Staff

Work as a team in a system. Respond

immediately to errors picked up by

downstream colleagues. High morale.

Work to own team’s service

level.

Tend not to proactively

collaborate with other teams.

Do not see impact of their

errors.

Staff

Productivity

Superior- each part of the system pulls

work to them and avoids backlogs being

created.

High visibility of staffs too busy or idle.

Hostage to build up of backlog

when demand or supply

factors change.

Large value of non-value

added work.

Leadership

time and effort

Team takes ownership of work and sticks

to agreed rules of working.

Any issues affecting system performance

are immediately obvious

Constant supervision of 1005

of staff.

Distracted by dealing with

escalations, hidden in the

backlog.

Customers Cycle time is very quick and predictable.

Errors picked up early and adjustments

made.

Cycle time is too long or too

variable.

Errors are slow to fix.

Business

Partners

Respond Immediately to rework caused

up by sales and feedback provided.

Major cause of rework.

Table 2.1 One Piece Flow vs. Batch Flow System(Michal Marton)

13

2.3 Lead Time

In today’s unpredictable economic environment, retailers and consumer product companies

(brands) may be challenged to deliver trend-right products in the right quantities to the right

locations. This challenge is often exacerbated by long lead times.

Performance goal may vary from one cell or factory to the next. For some, quality is the

foremost measure of performance. For others, delivery speed and customer response

dominates. For others, labor efficiency is foremost. Where equipment is expensive and

capital scarce, equipment utilization is the main focus.For this company faster delivery with

superior quality of the products is the main goal.

Silver et al. (Silver, 1998)defined, lead time as the time that elapses between the placement

of an order and the receipt of the order into inventory, lead time may influence customer

service and impact inventory costs. As the Japanese example of just-in-time-production has

shown, consequently reducing lead times may increase productivity and improve the

competitive position of the company.

The Japanese experience of using Just-In-Time (JIT) production shows that there are

advantages and benefits associated with their efforts to control lead time. Japanese

manufacturers are known for their strong and lasting partnership with their suppliers. This

helps reduce lead time and is one of the sources of success of their JIT philosophy.

Before 1980, customers tolerated long lead times which enabled producers to minimize

product cost by using economical batch sizes. Later, when customers began to demand

shorter lead times, they were able to get them from competitors. This is when the problem

arose and companies started to look for changes to be more competitive. In an attempt to

reduce lead time, businesses and organizations found that in reality 90% of the existing

activities are non-essential and could be eliminated. As soon as manufacturers focused on

processes, they found waste associated with changeovers, quality defects, process control,

factory layout, and machine down time. So they tried to find ways to reduce or eliminate

waste. Harrington (Harrington, 1996)proposes by eliminating the non-value adding activities

from the processes and streamlining the information flow significant optimization results can

be realized. In the 1960s and 70s, manufacturers competed on the basis of cost efficiency. In

14

the 1980s, quality was the rage and Zero Defects and Six Sigma came into vogue. Cost and

quality are still crucial to world-class operations, but today, the focus is squarely on speed.

Nearly all manufacturers today are under pressure from customers to cut lead times. And

rapid-response manufacturing pays big dividends.

15

2.1 Method Study

Method study is the systematic recording and critical examination of ways of doing things in

order to make improvements. (Kanawaty, 1992).

The basic approach to method study consists of the following eight steps:

1 —SELECT the work to be studied and define its boundaries.

2 —RECORDthe relevant facts about the job by direct observation and collect

such additional data as may be needed from appropriate sources.

3 —EXAMINEthe way the job is being performed and challenge its purpose, place,

sequence and method of performance.

4—DEVELOPThe most practical, economic and effective method, drawing on the

contributions of those concerned.

5 —EVALUATE

Different alternatives to developing a new improved method

comparing the cost-effectiveness of the selected new method with

the current method of performance.

6 —DEFINEthe new method, as a result, in a clear manner and present it to

those concerned, i.e. management, supervisors and workers.

7 —INSTALLthe new method as a standard practice and train the persons

involved in applying it.

8 —MAINTAINthe new method and introduce control procedures to prevent a

drifting back to the previous method of work.

Table 2.2: Method Study Steps(Kanawaty, 1992)

16

2.2 Time Study

Work measurement is the application of techniques designed to establish the time for a

qualified worker to carry out a task at a defined rate of working (Kanawaty, 1992).

Method study is the principal technique for reducing the work involved, primarily by

eliminating unnecessary movement on the part of material or operatives and by substituting

good methods for poor ones. Work measurement is concerned with investigating, reducing

and subsequently eliminating ineffective time, that is time during which no effective work is

being performed, whatever the cause.

Work measurement, as the name suggests, provides management with a means of measuring

the time taken in the performance of an operation or series of operations in such a way that

ineffective time is shown up and can be separated from effective time. Work measurement

has another role to play. Not only can it reveal the existence of ineffective time; it can also be

used to set standard times for carrying out the work, so that, if any ineffective time does

creep in later, it will immediately be shown up as an excess over the standard time and will

thus be brought to the attention of management.

Time study is a work measurement technique for recording the times of performing a certain

specific job or its elements carried out under specified conditions, and for analyzing the data

so as to obtain the time necessary for an operator to carry it out at a defined rate of

performance (Kanawaty, 1992).

17

2.3 Standard Work In Progress (SWIP)

SWIP is the minimum necessary in process inventory (work in process or WIP) to maintain

Standard Work; No more, no less.

SWIP or Standardized Work in Progress is the minimum necessary process inventory to

maintain one-piece flow.

Need to Control WIP:

Two major cost areas can be reduced if WIP is controlled.

1. Investment in inventory: Inventory is the money invested in raw materials. If the

inventory is not moved through the plant quickly then it affects cash flow directly.

2. Ability to reduce the production cycle

By having low inventory between operations, garments usually have less waiting

time and go through the production cycle in less time. Large inventory levels

between the operations keep the goods waiting longer to be processed. This

increases the overall through put time.

Low through put time permits better co-ordination between sales and production.

Low cycle times give manufacturers the ability to handle multiple styles.

Clients/buyers are looking for the factories that can meet production schedules,

that can handle multiple styles, and that can handle low inventories which will

reduce their investment.

The factories that work with low WIP only will be able to sustain in the present

market.

18

CHAPTER 3

METHODOLOGY

19

Prepare Database Sheet

Gather Theoretical Knowledge

Conduct Primary Observation

Prepare Questionnaire

Interview with management & 0perators

Collect company Data

Conduct Method Study and Time Study

Collect Field Data

Data Analysis and Documentation

Problems finding & suggest improvement scope

System Implementation

System Testing & Improvement

CHAPTER 3

METHODOLOGY

The steps followed in the research project are given below:

Step 1: Theoretical construction of the thesis

Step 2: Preparation of questionnaires and database sheet based on primary observation

Step 3: Data collection and analysis

Step 4: Problem findings and suggest improvement scope.

Step 5: System Implementation

Step 6: System Testing and thereby further improvements

20

Figure 3.3: Methodology Diagram

CHAPTER 4

EXISTING SYSTEM

21

Order Received in CAD Order Verification Pattern Alteration

Fabric Store Track Sheet Generation Marker Planning

Block Cutting Ready Cutting Sewing

Dispatch Finishing

Fabric receiving from store Lining cutting Fabric Laying

Fusing Fusing Cutting Block Cutting By Machine

Ready Cutting Checking Loading

CHAPTER 4

EXISTINGSYSTEM

4.1 Process Flow of MTM Department

Figure 4.4: Process Flow of MTM Department

4.2 Process Flow in Cutting Department

22

Figure 4.5: Process flow diagram of cutting department

Figure 4.6: Existing layout of cutting department

23

Figure 4.7: Cutting Department

24

4.3 SOP for Cutting Department

Activity Purpose/Objective Procedure Performed ByPerson

Responsible

Reports/

Documentatio

ns

Fabric Cutting

in storeTo issue for cutting

Check Track sheet for fabric Code and Consumption

Before cutting cross-check swatch with fabric code

Place the fabric with track sheet on the table in serial order

Tick in the order tracking list against the serial number

Store Boy(01)

Team

Leader(Mrs.

Putthama)

Order

Tracking

Checklist

Lining CuttingFor Feeding into

cutting m/c

Look the lining code in Track sheet and match shade from lining swatch board.

Bring the roll on the table and Cut as per indicated quantity.

Place the roll back in the rack

Operator(01)

Team

Leader(Mrs.

Putthama)

-

LayingFor Feeding into

cutting m/c

Check for lining marker- half width or full width.

Lay Shell and lining Place fusing block on shell for JKT & Suit. Tick in the order tracking list against the

serial number

Operators(02)

Team

Leader(Mrs.

Putthama)

Order

Tracking

Checklist

25

Block CuttingCutting lay into

panels

Look for selvedge alignment Match marker plan with track sheet Cut Data feeding to be done without stopping

m/c while cutting is in process. Tick in the order tracking list against the

serial number

Operators(02)

Team

Leader(Mr.

Kemp Raj)

Order

Tracking

Checklist

MarkingTo identify right and

wrong side

Mark using pencil on wrong sides Place the cut panels in basket- small parts

on one side & big parts on other side. Keep the TRS part in yellow basket and

JKT & W.C. in blue basket and pass to next station.

Helpers(02)

Team

Leader(Mr.

Kemp Raj)

Order

Tracking

Checklist

Fusing Cutting

Front and Lapel

To cut exactly

according to front and

lapel size

Take the rolls out from the table and cut a block

Place the front and lapel shell fabrics to use as a pattern and cut

Re-cut 1 cm all around to eliminate seam allowances on front and lapel

Operator(01)

Team

Leader(Mr.

Kemp Raj)

-

Fusing M/C

(Jacket)To provide

stiffness/good drape

Place all the fusing parts appropriately and pass through the machine.


Operator(01)

Team

Leader(Mr.

Kemp Raj)

Order

Tracking

Checklist

Place the fused panels in basket- small parts Helper(01) Team Order

26

on one side & big parts on other side. Leader(Mr.

Kemp Raj)

Tracking

Checklist

Fusing M/C

(Trouser)To provide stiffness

Place all the fusing parts appropriately and pass through the machine.


Team

Leader(Mr.

Kemp Raj)

Order

Tracking

Checklist

Ready

Cutting(JKT)

Checks matching and

shrinkage -----

Look for the order no and serial no. Pick up the pattern from the stand after

carefully matching the order no & serial no. Cut using pattern Put back all the parts in the basket. Tick in the order tracking list against the

serial number

Operator(02)

Team

Leader(Mr.

Kemp Raj)

Order

Tracking

Checklist

Ready

Cutting(TRS)

Checks matching and

shrinkage -----

Look for the order no and serial no. Pick up the pattern for checked and striped

fabric from the stand after carefully matching the order no & serial no.

Cut using pattern Bundle all the parts and pass to next station. Tick in the order tracking list against the

serial number

Operator(01)

Team

Leader(Mr.

Kemp Raj)

Order

Tracking

Checklist

Tagging &

Pocketing

To identify parts and

attach trims

Attach the pocketing material Cut the labels and tag to the parts. Paste swatch to the order tracking list. Pass for checking

Helper(01) Team

Leader(Mr.

Kemp Raj)

Order

Tracking

Checklist With

27

Swatch

Checking(TRS) Checking for quality

Check number of parts Measurement check against the track sheet Check Notch Marks Look for other fabric defects, if any Update in V-stitch

Operator(01)Cutting

Executive

Order

Tracking

Checklist

Checking(JKT) Checking for quality

Check number of parts(for avoiding any miss)

Measurement check against the track sheet Check Notch Marks Look for other fabric defects, if any Update in V-stitch Update defects, if any

Operator(01)Cutting

Executive

Order

Tracking

Checklist

And quality

Report

28

CHAPTER 5

DATA COLLECTION

AND ANALYSIS

29

CHAPTER 5

DATA COLLECTION AND ANALYSIS

6.1 Cycle Time for Various Operations in Cutting Department

Operations

No of

Operato

rs

Operator

Rating

Cycle

Time

(Sec)

VA

(Sec)

NVA

(Sec)

Basic

Time(Cycle

time*Rating)

(Sec)

SAM=

1.15*Basic

Time(15%

Allowance)

(Min)

Lining

Cutting(2P1)1 100% 166 77.8 88.2 166 3.18

Laying(2P) 2 100% 356.17 281.01 75.16 356.17 6.83

Block Cutting

m/c 1(2P)1 90% 701.67 557 144 631.50 12.10

Block Cutting

m/c 2(2P)1 100% 706.88 580.02 126.86 706.88 13.55

Fusing Cutting 1 75% 399.5 176.56 222.94 299.63 5.74

Fusing 1 90% 245 245 0 220.5 4.23

R C(Solid)

4

75% 1114 294.89 795.29 835.5 16.02

R C (Checks) 75% 1368 307.2 1060.8 1026 19.67

R C(Stripes) 75% 1154.2 230.2 924 865.65 16.59

Checking 1 90% 494.8 494.8 0 445.32 8.54

Table 5.3: Cycle Time for Jacket

1The reading is for 2-piece suit till bundling because the operations at these work stations can’t be separated.

30

OperationsNo of

Operators

Operators

Rating

Cycle

Time

(Sec)

VA

(Sec)

NVA

(Sec)

Basic

Time(Cycle

time*Rating)

(Sec)

SAM=

1.15*Basic

Time(15%

Allowance

)

(Min)

Lining Cutting 12 100% 14.4 14.4 0 14.4 0.28

Laying 2* 100% 132.93 105.76 27.17 132.93 2.55

Block Cutting

m/c 11* 90% 284.8 199.8 85 256.32 4.91

Block Cutting

m/c 21* 100% 254.22 189.36 64.86 254.22 4.87

Fusing 1 75% 185.4 89.1 96.3 139.05 2.67

Ready

Cutting(Solid)

2

100% 130.6 - - 130.6 2.51

Ready

Cutting(Checks)75% 680 - - 510 9.77

Ready

Cutting(Stripes)75% 455.2 - - 341.4 6.55

Pocket Attach&

Label Tagging1 100% 294.49 - - 294.49 4.79

Checking(Solid

& Stripe)2

100% 116.2 - - 116.2 2.22

Checking

(Checks)100% 223 - - 223 4.27

Table 5.4: Cycle Time for Trouser

2,* - Already Counted In Jacket Cycle Time; Same operator for both jacket and trouser

31

6.2 Existing Capacity Calculation

Lining Cutting

Man Hour= 8

SAM for 2-piece suit = 3.18 min

SAM for trouser = 0.28 min

Let the ratio of suit to trouser be 1:2 (From output report Appendix III)

So, average time = (1*3.18 + 2*0.28)/ (1+2) = 1.25 min

So, Capacity = 480 /1.25 = 384 i.e. 128suits and256 trousers

Laying

Man Hour= 8 x 2= 16hr.





So, Capacity = (480*2) /3.98 = 241 i.e. 80 suits and 161 trousers

Block Cutting

Machine 1

Machine Hours = 8 * 0.85 = 6.8 hour (At 85% efficiency)



32


So, average time = (1*12.10 +1 *4.91)/ (1+1) = 8.5 min

So, Capacity = 408 /8.5 = 48 i.e. 24 suits and 24 trousers

Machine 2

Machine Hours = 8 * 0.95 = 7.6 hour (At 95% efficiency)



Let the ratio of suit to trouser be 1:1 (From output report Appendix 3)

So, average time = (1*13.55 +1 *4.87)/ (1+1) = 9.21 min

So, Capacity = 456 /9.21 = 50 i.e. 25 suits and 25 trousers

Hence, Total capacity of block cutting should have been = 49 suits and 49 trousers orders.

But due to excessive NVA and unplanned trims cutting, there is momentum breakdown and

consequently the efficiency is 80%.

Hence actual capacity = 39 Suits and 40 trousers orders.

Fusing Cutting (Jacket)

Man Hour= 8 hrs.

SAM= 5.74 min

So, Capacity = 480 /5.74 =83 jackets

Fusing Machine (Jacket)

Machine Hours = 8 hour (At100% efficiency)

SAM = 4.23 min

3Ratio considered as 1:1 because even if trouser has multiple quantities, it is cut in a single marker.

33

Capacity = 480/4.23= 113 jackets

Fusing Machine (Trouser)


SAM = 2.67 min

Capacity = 480/2.67= 180 trouser

Ready Cutting (Jackets)

Man Hours = 8 * 4 = 32 hrs.

SAM for JacketRC (solid) = 16.02 min

SAM for JacketRC (stripe) = 16.59 min

SAM for Jacket RC (checks) = 19.67 min

Let the ratio of solid, stripe and checks be5:3:2 (50%:30%:20%) (From output

reportAppendix III)

So, average time = (5*16.02 +3 *16.59 + 2*19.67)/ (5+3+2) = 16.92 min

So, Capacity = (480*4) /16.92 = 113 i.e. 57 solid, 34 stripe and 22 checked

But due to excessive NVA, there is momentum breakdown and consequently the efficiency is

50%.

And therefore actual output = 57 i.e. 29 solid, 17 stripe and 11 checked.

Ready Cutting (trousers)

Man Hours = 8 hrs.

SAM for JacketRC (solid) =2.51min

SAM for JacketRC (stripe) = 6.55 min


34

Let the ratio of solid, stripe and checks be5:4:1 (50%:40%:10%) (From output report

Appendix 3)


So, Capacity = 480 /4.58 = 105i.e. 53 solid, 42 stripe and 10 checked

35

Checking (Jackets)

Man Hours = 8

SAM =8.54 min

So, Capacity = 480 /8.54 = 56

Checking (Trousers)

Man Hours = 8

SAM forTrouserChecking (solid& stripe) =2.23 min

SAM for Jacket Checking (checks) = 4.27 min

Let the ratio of solid& stripe, and checks be9:1 (90%:10%) (From output report Appendix

III)


So, Capacity = 480 /2.434 =197 i.e. 177 solid and stripe, and 20 checked

6.3 Existing capacity summary

Operations No Of Operators Jackets Trousers

Lining 1 128 256 + 128

Laying 2 80 161 + 80

Block Cutting 2 39 40 + 39

Fusing Cutting 1 83

Fusing M/C 2 113 180

Ready Cutting 5 57(29,17,11) 105(53,42,10)

Checking 2 56 197(177,20)

Table 5.5: Existing Capacity Summary

36

CHAPTER 6

IMPLEMENTED SYSTEM

37

CHAPTER 6

IMPLEMENTED SYSTEM

After careful study and analysis, it was been found that there were considerable non-value

added activities at almost each work stations. Further throughput time for the cutting

department was also high which led to increase in lead-time. In order to eliminate theses

NVA and reduce the lead time, various changes like process change, layout modification and

one piece flow implementationwere done. They have been explained in detailed in the

successive sections.

6.1 Caveat to One-Piece Flow System

The one-piece flow is implementation must be preceded by a caveat on the factors which

often leads to its failure. These factors (Miller, 2007) along with the solutions have been

listed below:

a. Unreliable equipment that may break down, causing downstream processes to

run out of parts: This particular problem is encountered on block cutting machines.

The machine downtime due to machine break down is very high (14%; source:

Appendix II). These machines require preventive maintenance preceded by a

complete overhauling. The breakdown report for one month has been complied and

sent to top management for consideration.

b. People will resist this change: Believing in the system is essential for its success.

People will have to be motivated. This is what a leader does. The benefits of the

system should be effectively conveyed to the operators so that their heart and mind is

for the system. Workers were shown motivational video on continuous flow to

convey the benefits. The result was surprising- they were very receptive of the

change.

38

c. People are not cross trained to do more than one or two limited tasks: For one

piece flow it’s essential that operators are cross trained for countering the problem

arising from the absenteeism of a particular operator or operators.

Limiting people's potential to learn and develop to their fullest never benefits a

company. Training the people for cross jobs and taking "boring" out of work by

giving people variety boost their morale. This is what we did here to tackle the

problems arising out of absenteeism. Workers were cross trained on all the critical

work stations especially cutters and ready cutting.

d. There is too much distance between processes to move one at a time: This

particular problem is one of the major cause of one the seven wastes of the lean

manufacturing i.e. transportation. In cutting section bundles have to be carried to

successive stations manually. In order to eliminate this conveyor system has been

suggested which is explained in next section 6.2.

e. Process cycle times are unstable or variable, creating imbalance between

workers. The first step was to examine the process cycle times through direct process

observation, breaking the work into smaller work elements and segregating VA &

NVA. The detailed steps of NVA elimination has been explained in section 6.3.

Since, in MTM style varies and also the quantity in an order varies. Sometimes re-

cutting is also done. The chronic variation is still above the 5% to 10% range. It's

unpredictable variation. To counter this problem, a standard WIP as buffer needs to

be defined. If we maintain a SWIP the successive stations will not be affected due to

shortage and we will also be able to avoid excess WIP. That’s why a SWIP of 5

orders per work station is being maintained.

f. Occasional work like Trims cutting that interrupts the process: Through the data

analysis, it has been found that cutter machine is the bottleneck. Unplanned cutting of

trims aggravates the problem. Further, one piece flow will not work as successive will

run out of piece.

The solution for this is to plan the cutting of each and every trim and cut them in

overtime or on Sunday. The planning should be done in a manner that inventory lasts

at least for a fortnight. Such a plan has been shown in appendix 4.

39

6.2 Conveyor System

There is too much distance between processes to move one at a time in the department. This

particular problem is one of the major cause of one the seven wastes of the lean

manufacturing i.e. transportation. In cutting section bundles have to be carried to successive

stations manually. In order to eliminate manual transportation and minimize material

handling a flexible conveyor system has been implemented.

28 27 26 25 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

20

19

18

17

16

15

14

13

12

11

10

9

8

7

6

5

4

3

2

1

Checking RC JKT RC TRS Tagging

Pocketing

Checking

Pattern

Pattern

Band Knife

Fusing M/C

Fusi

ng M

/C

Trims Laying

Fusing Cutting

Block Cutting

Block CuttingBundling

Bundling Laying

Laying

Lini

ng S

tand

GATE

Stair

Loading

Loadin

Fabric From Store

Pattern

Dus

t Bin

Lini

ng S

tand

RC TRSRC JKT

Unit:One Tile = 2' x 2'

13"

15"

13"

8"

Figure 6.8: Implemented Process Flow with Conveyor

40

Technically the system consists of overhead conveyors having two lines- one for the trousers

and one for the jackets. The parts are carried in a basket as shown in figure 10.Though the

system is not automated but it has been crafted judiciously using wheels for free and smooth

movement. A simple push carries the basket to next work station.

Figure 6.9: Conveyor System

41

Figure 6.10: Conveyor Basket

This system transports all the pieces of the product through the manufacturing process. The

basket carries all pieces of one entire garment through different steps of production.

Operations are performed at individual work stations. The end result is a cost-efficient

product, processed from pieces to completion. A conveyor system is often the lifeline to a

company’s ability to effectively move its product in a timely fashion.

42

Components of the conveyer system

a) MS square Pipe Structural Support

Figure 6.11: MS square Pipe

The mild steel square pipe has been used as a structural support. The vertical pipe

dimension is 2” x 2” whereas the horizontal pipes used are of dimensions 1.5” x 1.5”.

43

b) Bush and J Hook

Figure 6.12: Bush

Figure 6.13: J-Hook

In order to suspend the GI rod (conveyor pipe), bush and J-hooks have been used so

that the system remains flexible and can be expanded anytime.

44

c) GI Pipe

Figure 6.14: GI Pipe

This is the conveyor pipe on which baskets move.

d) Wheel

Figure 6.15: Wheel

The baskets move on wheels which have bearings inside them so that the flow is very

smooth.

45

Number of Baskets Calculation

As discussed in section 6.1, the SWIP for jacket considered is 5 per work station. There are 4

work stations for jackets that the conveyor covers viz. cutting, fusing, ready cutting and

checking.

Hence, number baskets for jacket = 4* 5 = 20

The SWIP for trouser is 10. There are 3 work stations for jackets that the conveyor covers

viz. cutting, fusing, waist and ready cutting.

Hence, number baskets for jacket = 3* 10 = 30

Hence, total number of baskets required is 50.

46

6.3 Non-Value Added (NVA) Activities Elimination

In order to maintain one-piece flow system NVA elimination is must so that the pitch time is

balanced. The successive sections describe the various non-value added activities elimination

technique which has been implemented.

6.3.1 Laying

a) Lining stand near work stations

For cutting body lining, sleeve lining and knee lining a separate worker was required

because the rolls of different shades were in the store and cutting them took almost 3

minutes. To minimize this transportation wastage a lining stand was made and placed

near the laying table. The different steps involved were as follow:

47

Place back thge roll

Cut the specified length

Go to Fabric store, pick the roll and bring on the table.

Look for reference number in the tracksheet

Figure 6.16: Lining Cutting Process

Figure 6.17: Lining Stand

48

Result:The time taken for cutting a body lining came down to just 30 second from

130 second (Appendix 1sheet 1). Further, there is no need for an extra worker

especially for this job. Hence, there is not only time saving but manpower saving

also.

b) Tacking Gun for checked and striped fabric

In order to match checks and stripe during laying hand needle is used to tuck the

fabrics in place. This is a time consuming process. So, a tag gun has been introduced

to do the tucking.

Figure 6.18: Tucking for Checks and stripes matching using hand needle

49

Figure 6.19: Tucking for Checks and stripes matching using Tag Gun

Result: The hand stitching took 2-3 minutes depending on fineness of stripes and

checks whereas the tag gun takes approximately one minute.

6.3.2 Block Cutting

During the data collection it was found that block cutting is the bottleneck point (See Table

6). The study revealed the following causes for the problem:

External Factor

Lack of Co-ordination between CAD and Cutting Department - There was lack of

synchronization between marker planning and cutting as there was no sequencing

of orders. Most often laying was done and fed to cutter machine but there was no

marker file. This problem was solved by one piece flow implementation which

works on FIFO (First in first out) principle.

Internal Factors

Machine

o Improper preventive maintenance : The machine breakdown rate is very high

resulting in high machine downtime. (Appendix II). So, a complete

50

overhauling was done. Though this reduced the breakdown but it’s still not

satisfactory. So, breakdown report for a month has been sent to the top

management for machine replacement consideration.

Process

o No Continuous feeding: Through the time study using element breakdown it

was found that activities like unrolling of lay,order sheet searching, feeding

and aligning took considerable time and they don’t add any value.

Figure 6.20: Previous Cutting Process

51

Unrolling of folded

layTrack sheet

search Feeding Aligning

Figure 6.21: Implemented Process

So, in order to eliminate the non-value added activities, continuous feeding is being done. A

stand was fixed to the laying table and the paper roll was mounted on it using a pipe. Now,

the machine automatically draws the fabric lay in.

Result:

Not only this continuous feeding also led to reduction in laying time because paper rolling

and unrolling is no longer required.

52

Current Capacity

Suits- 40 (orders)

Trousers- 53 orders or 76 pieces

Improved Capacity

Suits- 60 (orders)

Trousers- 76 orders or 109 piece

6.3.3 Fusing Cutting

For small parts fusing there is no need for size-wise cutting but larger parts like front and

lapels require cutting exactly to the shell fabric. Hence, fusing is cut manually. The process

flow is as follow:

Figure 6.22: Previous Fusing Cutting Flow Diagram

Figure 6.23: Previous Fusing Cutting Flow

53

Roll Pick upBloack Cutting and putting the

roll back

Fusing Cutting using the shell

fabric as a pattern

Re-cutting to remove the seam

allowances

The manual handling took too much time. To minimize the time, marker planning was done

in such a manner so that the front position is fixed in all the markers. Now block cutting was

done in two sizes for front and lapel (Annexure IV). While laying the block is placed at the

fixed place and is cut on the machine along with the fabric. Now, re-cutting is done to

remove seam allowance that too without using shell as pattern which took time.

Figure 6.24: New Fusing Cutting Flow Diagram

Figure 6.25: New Fusing Cutting Flow

54

Place the fusing block on fabric lay

Cut along with the shell on block cutter

machineRe-cut to remove seam allowances

Result:

55

6.3.4 Ready Cutting

In ready cutting the shell fabric is re-cut by rotary knife using paper patterns made for that

order (see figure 6.20 and 6.21). Though this work station is not a bottleneck point but the

number of operators used is more than the required because non-value added time is highest

at this work station. Patterns requisition from CAD and matching them as per orders

tookabout 30 min time for 25 orders i.e. 1.5 man hours. Sometimes order reached at the ready

cutting table but pattern was not ready because there was no sequencing or rather they were

not synchronized.

Figure 6.26: Pattern Stand

56

Figure 6.27: Ready Cutting

Figure 6.28: Rotary Knife for Ready Cutting

57

If the flow is maintained and CAD and cutting are synchronized, this waste of time of skilled

labor can be avoided. In order to do this concept of FIFO has been implemented which will

be explained in next section 6.4 in detail.

After synchronization a system has been developed to move the patterns in which the pattern

passes along with the track sheet and the cut parts. This eliminates not only the pattern

searching time but also minimizes movement as the operators used to go to pattern stand.

Figure 6.29: Pattern Movement Along With Trolley

58

Result:SAM for Jacket (Solid) = (795.29 * 0.75*1.15)/60 = 11.43

SAM for Jacket (Stripe) = (924 *0.75* 1.15)/60 = 13.28

SAM for Jacket (Checks) = (1060 * 0.75*1.15)/60 = 15.24 (Appendix 1 sheet10)

Let the ratio of solid, stripe and checks be5:4:1 (50%:30%:20%) (Appendix- From

output report)


So, Capacity = (480*4) /12.75 = 150i.e. 75 solid, 45 stripe and 30 checked

Hence, the number of operators required is only two instead of 4.

59

6.4 Sequential Movement (FIFO)

Earlier the concept of FIFO was followed on Day-wise basis. There is a color coding for each

day of the week and the orders move in that order. But in order to make the system

successful, each order has to be moved as per FIFO i.e. FIFO within the day-wise color

coding.

Figure 6.30: Color Coding and a Color Coded Track sheet

Now, a SWIP of 5 has already been defined but the whole system will collapse if the pattern

for ready cutting is not made available at the time of ready cutting. The baskets will create a

jam. So, in order to have FIFO within the day following implementations were done:

60

6.4.1 A Track Sheet Holder at Pattern Cutting Machine

Figure 6.31: FIFO Stand at Pattern Cutter

6.4.2 Fabric Holding Stand in Store

The store boy used to cut each order and pile up one after another. When they were loaded

for laying all the fabrics were mixed and no order was followed except for day-wise. Many a

time it happened that the order which came first moved too late and the order which came

later moved first. Now, the pattern is ready for the order which came first but not for the

order which came last. So, the pattern is ready for the order which did not reach at the ready

cutting table and pattern is not available for the order which is already there at ready cutting

table.

61

Figure 6.32: Cut Fabric for laying

62

Figure 6.33: Piled up fabrics falling and mixing

Figure 6.34: Stand for cut fabric in the store

63

To solve this problem, a separate trolley (See Figure 27) was made having three sections

divided by removable plywood. Having tree sections distributes the weight of the fabrics.

How does it work?

The store boy picks the track sheet from the stand in an order and cuts the fabric and

place in the lowest section. The stand at this point is empty and plywood boards are

outside.

He cuts and put one after another till first section is full. Now he puts the plywood

back.

Next, het put the cut fabric in the second section and so on.

Once the Trolley is full, laying operator takes it to the laying table and draws the

fabric from bottom. Though the total cut fabrics are around 25-30 in the trolley but

there is weight of only about 10 fabrics on the lowest fabric. Hence, it can be easily

drawn out.

Meanwhile, the store boy fills other trolley and once the trolley at laying is empty it’s

brought back and next filled trolley goes back.

64

6.5 Emergency Order Handling Flag System

As per current procedure, for urgent order the word “urgent” is hand written on the track

sheet. The worker sees it and passes forward after processing. The main problem with this

was that it’s not clearly visible and was mixed along with other orders. The supervisor or

cutting executive had to search and give them manually to the workers and they had to track

constantly to see it that’s passing or not.

Figure 6.35: Emergency Order Handling System (Previous)

65

Many times workers don’t see and is mixed with other orders. For this a red flag is attached

to the basket containing “urgent” order.

Figure 6.36 Emergency Order Handling System (Implemented)

Result:This will increase visibility not only for workers but also for executives and thus

smooth flow of emergency order will be maintained.

66

6.4 New Capacity Calculation

Lining Cutting and laying

Man Hour= 8 x 2 = 16 hours

SAM for 2-piece suit = 1.5+5.59 min = 7.09 min

SAM for trouser = 0.33+ 1.99= 2.32 min


So, average time = (1 x 7.09 + 2 x 2.32)/ (1+2) = 3.91 min

So, Capacity = (480 x 2)/3.91 = 245 i.e. 82 suits and 163 trousers

Block Cutting

Machine 1

SMV for 2-piece suit = 501sec

SAM for 2-piece suit = 575.50 sec = 9.61 min

SMV for Trouser = 179.82 sec

SAM for Trouser = 206.79 sec = 3.45 min

If the machine is repaired, we can take efficiency to be 95%.

Machine hours= 8*0.95 = 7.6 hours

Let the ratio be 1:1

Average time = (9.61 + 3.45)/2 = 6.53

So, Capacity = (7.6 * 60)/6.53 = 70 i.e. 35 suits and 35 trousers orders.

67

Machine 2

SMV for 2-piece suit = 580.02 sec

SAM for 2-piece suit = 667.023 sec = 11.12 min

SMV for Trouser = 189.36 sec

SAM for Trouser = 217.76 sec = 3.63 min

If the machine is repaired, we can take efficiency to be 95%.

Machine hours= 8*0.95 = 7.6 hours

Let the ratio be 1:1

Average time = (11.12 + 3.63)/2 = 7.38

So, Capacity = (7.6 * 60)/7.38 = 62 i.e. 31 suits and 31 trousers orders.

Out of 456*2 = 912 min, 15 % 0f 912 min i.e. 136.8 min has been given as PFD allowance.

Now, the co-worker is trained at least 5% i.e. 45 min can be used.

This implies that 3 more suits and 3 more trousers can be cut.

Hence, total capacities = (35+31+3) 69 suits and 69 trouser orders (or 69+1.45*69=169).

Fusing Cutting and Fusing Machine (Jacket)


SAM = 4.23 + 1.33 = 5.56 min

Capacity = 480/5.6= 86 jackets

68

Fusing Machine (Trouser)


SAM = 1.5 min

Capacity = 480/1.5 = 320 trouser

Ready Cutting (Jackets)

SAM for Jacket (Solid) = (795.29 * 0.75*1.15)/60 = 11.43

SAM for Jacket (Stripe) = (924 *0.75* 1.15)/60 = 13.28

SAM for Jacket (Checks) = (1060 * 0.75*1.15)/60 = 15.24 (Appendix 1 sheet10)

Let the ratio of solid, stripe and checks be5:4:1 (50%:30%:20%) (Appendix- From output

report)

So, average time = (5*11.43 + 3 *13.28 + 2*15.24)/ (5+3+2) = 12.75 min


Hence, the number of operators required is only two instead of 4.


Ready Cutting (trousers)

Man Hours = 8 hrs.

SAM for Jacket RC (solid) =2.51min

SAM for Jacket RC (stripe) = 6.55 min


69

Let the ratio of solid, stripe and checks be5:4:1 (50%:40%:10%) (From output report

Appendix 3)


So, Capacity = 480 /4.58 = 105i.e. 53 solid, 42 stripe and 10 checked

Checking (Jackets)

Man Hours = 8

SAM =8.54 min

So, Capacity = 480 /8.54 = 56

Checking (Trousers)

Man Hours = 8

SAM for Trouser Checking (solid& stripe) =2.23 min

SAM for Jacket Checking (checks) = 4.27 min

Let the ratio of solid& stripe, and checks be9:1 (90%:10%) (From output report Appendix

III)


So, Capacity = 480 /2.434 =197 i.e. 177 solid and stripe, and 20 checked

6.5 New capacity summary

Operations No Of Operators Jackets Trousers

Lining Cutting and

Laying2 82 163 + 82

Block Cutting 2 69 69 + 69

Fusing Cutting and

Fusing M/C1 86 320

Ready Cutting 3 75(37,23,15) 105(53,42,10)

Checking 2 56 197(177,20)

Table 6.6 New Capacity Summary

70

CHAPTER 7

PROJECT COST

71

CHAPTER 7

PROJECT COST

8.1 Project Costing

Tools

a) Fabric Stand = Rs. 1200 x 1 = Rs. 2000

b) Lining Stand = Rs. 5000 x 1 = Rs. 5000

c) Tag Gun = Rs. 1300 x 2 = Rs. 2600

Total = Rs. 9,600

Conveyor Assembly

a) 2” x 2” Square Pipe = Rs. 900 x 3 = Rs. 2,700

b) 1.5” x 1.5” Square Pipe = Rs. 800 x 15 = Rs. 12,000

c) Bush = Rs. 100 x 44 = Rs. 4,400

(Though the original cost of bush was Rs. 300 each but they were in scrap, so scrap value

considered @ Rs.55 per kg)

d) J hook = Rs. 900 x 7 = Rs. 6,300

e) GI Pipe(diameter ¾”) = Rs. 900 x 12 = Rs. 10,800

f) Wheel(Handle) = Rs 150 x 50 = Rs. 7,500

g) Chain = Rs. 100 x 50 = Rs. 5,000

h) Others(Bolt, welding materials) = Rs. 5,000

i) Baskets =Rs. 150 x 25 = Rs. 3,750

Total = Rs. 57,450

72

Hence, total project cost = Rs. 67,050

The labor cost has been not included in the cost analysis because everything was developed

in-house as there is a team of 45 staff in maintenance department. They are paid each month

regardless of work. Since, the company is paying them regardless work they do, hence their

labor cost has not been reflected in the cost sheet.

73

CHAPTER 8

RESULTS AND SAVINGS

74

CHAPTER 8

RESULTS AND SAVINGS

a) The overall capacity of the cutting department increased by 76% for suits i.e. from 39

to 69 and 72 % for trousers i.e. from 40 orders to 69 orders (Quantity can vary as an

order may contain 1-10 trousers).

The result was that overtime is no longer required.

No. of operators used in Over Time per day = 5

Average wage per hour = Rs. 55

Average number of hours Over Time Done = 4 hours

Hence, Wage paid per day = Rs. 5 x 55 x 4 = Rs. 1100

Wage paid per month = Rs. 1100 x 30 = Rs. 33,000

(30 days has been considered because overtime was done on Sunday also)

Wage paid per annum = Rs. 33,000 x 12 = Rs. 3,96,000

Hence, there will be a total saving of Rs. 3,96,000 per annum on account of

avoiding overtime.

b) Four labors were shifted to other department where there was requirement. Hence, the

cost incurred in cutting has been reduced on account of decreased number of labors.

Labor Saved = 4

Hence, saving from operators = Rs. 5200 x 4 = Rs. 20,800 per month

= Rs. 20,800 x 12 = Rs. 2,49,600 per annum

75

Hence, a total of Rs. 2,49,600 will be saved per annum.

c) Reduced throughput time: As there was no sequencing and the orders which came

first did not necessarily move first. So, for some orders throughput time was 12- 16

hours depending on the delay and mix up. But now the throughput time is reduced to

2-2.5 hours depending on style. Hence, the order received can be loaded in the line

same day can be delivered next day by the evening reducing lead time to just 2 days

from the current lead time of 4 days.

d) Better workplace visualization: The status of work can be seen from anywhere in

the department. If there is any hold up, the baskets will pile up and can be enquired.

e) An efficient emergency order handling system:Now the emergency order is

handled very efficiently and there is no need to constantly guide the worker to move

emergency order. It’s very systematic. The executives can also have a glance while

passing and can question if there is no movement of the emergency order.

f) Increased efficiency: Workers are now forced to work to supply materials to

succeeding stations. Hence, the overall efficiency has increased.

76

CHAPTER 9LIMITATIONS AND SCOPE

FOR FURTHER STUDY

77

CHAPTER 9

LIMITATIONS AND SCOPE OF FURTHER STUDY

Since, each order is unique in style in MTM, the data gathered for observed time, the ratio of

suits to trouser quantity for capacity calculation may not be accurate; it’s only approximate

value. One can never predict the number of orders received and their style variations in this

department. So, every data presented is approximate, though care has been taken to take in

account each variation.

Since, the demand for increased capacity was something which needed to addressed urgently,

hence, continuous improvement has been made and no drastic change was done as it requires

huge capital, months of planning and culture change. But in future projects can be taken to

eliminate the ready cutting. Also, the basket being used now is a bit bulky as existing unused

baskets have been used for the time being because of lack of budget. But there can be

alternatives to this basket. Not only this, methods can be devised to avoid manual pushing of

baskets to the succeeding work stations.

78

CHAPETR 10

CONCLUSION

79

CHAPTER 10

CONCLUSION

The project has achieved its intended objectives of increasing the capacity and decreasing

throughput time of cutting department.The overall capacity of the cutting department

increased by 76% for suits i.e. from 39 to 69 and 72 % for trousers i.e. from 40 orders to 69

orders (Quantity can vary as an order may contain 1-10 trousers). The result was that

overtime is no longer required saving Rs. 3,96,000per annum.

Four labors were shifted to second shift where there was requirement. Hence, the cost

incurred in cutting has been reduced byRs. 2,49,600 per annum on account of decreased

number of labors.

Hence, a whopping sum of Rs. 6,45,600 will be saved per annum.

Further, the throughput time has been reduced to 2-2.5 hours depending on style from 12-14

hours. Hence, the order received can be loaded in the line same day can be delivered next day

by the evening reducing lead time to just 2 days from the current lead time of 4 days.

There is increased work place visibility of work place. The status of work can be seen from

anywhere in the department. If there is any hold up, the baskets will pile up and can be

enquired.

Now, the company has an efficient emergency order handling system and there is no need to

constantly guide the worker to move emergency order. It’s very systematic. The executives

can also have a glance while passing and can question if there is no movement of the

emergency order.

.

80

81

BIBLIOGRAPHY

Books

Bicheno, J. (2004). New Lean Toolbox : Towards Fast Flexible Flow. Picsie Books.

Harrington, H. (1996). The complete benchmarking implementation guide: total

benchmarking management. New York: McGraw-Hill.

Kanawaty, G. (1992). INTRODUCTION TO WORK STUDY. geneva: Publications of the

International Labour Office.

Michal Marton, I. P. (n.d.). One Piece Flow - Another View on Production Flow In The Next

Continuous Process Improvement .

Miller, J. (2007, April 21). Retrieved from gemba panta rei:

http://www.gembapantarei.com/2007/04/ten_reasons_why_one_piece_flow.html

Silver, E. P. (1998). Inventory Management and Production Planning and Scheduling. New

York: Wiley.

Websites

http://www.fibre2fashion.com/industry-article/6/591/the-long-and-short-of-garmenting-

leadtime1.asp

http://apparel.edgl.com/case-studies/Optimize-Lead-Times,-Maximize-Profits74689

http://www.onlineclothingstudy.com/2011/02/garment-cm-cost-estimation-using-sam-

or.html

http://www.onlineclothingstudy.com/2014/02/how-to-calculate-cost-of-manufacturing.html

http://www.onlineclothingstudy.com/2011/08/how-to-stop-missing-of-garments-in.html

82

http://www.onlineclothingstudy.com/2011/08/how-to-stop-missing-of-garments-in.html

APPENDICES AND ANNEXTURE

83

Documents

Document