Do octors'Skin Lines

Really Work?We Investigate the Best-

And the Worst

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156

TheRxFactor

A doctor's name on a jar of face creamcan do wonders for sales. But are you really

getting better and stronger products?A look at what's really behind the labels.

By Brooke Le Poer Trench

ouise ", a 35-year-old mother of two, but-toned up her blouse in the examinationroom of her dermatologist's Manhattanoffice following her annual routine molecheck. She'd taken the opportunity toraise some concerns about her smile

_ •• _lines, so the doctor was scratching outa prescription for Renova, a topical retinoid, as Louisegathered her coat and handbag. "You just have to prom-ise me that you'll wear sunscreen every day," the doctorordered, handing over the script. "I mean it." Then, asLouise was leaving, the dermatologist casually added: "Ihave a new SPF 50 available. Just ask the receptionist toshow you on your way out."

t the front desk,Louise examinedthe facial sunscreen.It came in a simplewhite bottle witha black-and-whitelabel that listed her

doctor's name, the office address, anda basic description of the contents.Cost: $60. Despite the fact that she'drecently bought one at the drugstore(for $12.99), she handed over hercredit card. After all, her doctor hadprescribed it ... sort of. And therein liesthe quandary: Dermatologists combour body for melanomas, tell us theunvarnished truth about our agingskin, and help us tackle embarrassingproblems like hair thinning (on ourhead), sprouting (on the chin), andstretch marks wiggling across our hips.So when they suggest that patients buytheir own skin-care products, it feelslike the ultimate endorsement.

"I don't make recommendationsto my patients lightly for that veryreason," says Eric F. Bernstein, aPhiladelphia dermatologist and clini-cal associate professor of dermatologyat the University of Pennsylvania. "Asa doctor, your name is the most valu-able professional asset you have-so ifI'm going to sell a product, I'm goingto make sure it offers something thatdoesn't exist off the shelf, and makesure it works." However, not everydoctor necessarily shares that view.When she arrived home, Louise com-pared the list of ingredients in her newsunscreen to the one on her drugstorebrand. They were virtually identical. "Ijust assumed the one from my doctorwas better," she recalls, even thoughshe also couldn't tell the differencewhen she slathered them on.

Louise isn't the only one attracted tothose two little letters-" M.D. "-on abottle. "There's so much choice in skincare that people lower their guard whenthey see a doctor's name," says cos-metic chemist Jim Hammer. "It lendsauthority to the formula's claims."Doctors and scientists have alwaysworked behind the scenes for cosmeticcompanies-for example, Clinique wasdeveloped with Park Avenue dermatol-

Allure/March 2012

ogist Norman Orentreich in 1968 forEstee Lauder, but his name wasn't onthe packaging or advertising, becauseback then, the New York MedicalSociety didn't allow doctors to identifythemselves in the media.

Clearly, times have changed. "Thesedays, people assume that doctor-developed lines are one notch downfrom a prescription," says cosmeticchemist Ni'Kita Wilson. "And whileit's true that some of the strongestover-the-counter skin care is formu-lated by doctors-and gets results thatare impressively close to some in-officetreatments and prescription topicals-there's a huge spread in quality. Someof these lines may not do much morethan a basic drugstore cream."

To spot the difference, we need toaddress a fundamental question: Howdo doctors develop these lines in thefirst place? At one end of the spectrumis the dermatologist who simply wants

within months." Dr. X isn't the onlyone. Another top dermatologist, whenpressed, admits, "I've seen colleaguesdo this. It's simple and cheap and notnecessarily a bad thing. Sometimes thedoctors can tweak the formula withingredients they want to add. And theyfigure if the venture is a success, thenthey'll spend more money on develop-ing better technology later. It's expen-sive to make a whole line on yourown." These lines are small, and manyhave no rigorous testing to prove theywork. The product formulator adds:"These creams will fulfill basic skin-care requirements, but they won't bestrong enough to produce impressiveanti-aging results."

Other products are the result of amarriage of sorts with a large cosmeticscompany. One high-profile dermatolo-gist told us about several offers that hadcome his way: "The marketing peopleshow you the product line, which their

''Ifyou make something that'smild enoughfor everybody,

it's not going to work as effectively."products with his name on the bottle."They don't have the money to formu-late a line that goes out to consumers,but they still want skin care to sell totheir patients," says one chemist, whoworks for a research and developmentcompany. "As part of our business, wehave premade cleansers, sunscreens,moisturizers, and anti-aging creams andserums, so a doctor can tick off the oneshe wants, buy a couple hundred units,and then label and sell them."

One product formulator we spoketo recalls her interactions with a der-matologist we'll call Dr. X. "He wantedhis name on a bottle, fast-he'd been ona few television shows and thought hecould be the next Perricone or Murad"[two doctors who have had signifi-cant success with their own productsfor decades]. "So we showed him askin-care line sitting in our inventory,and he licensed it and had it out there

R&D team has developed, and explainthe science. Sometimes they'll let youpick and choose the formulas you likeand don't like. But mostly, the deal is'Take what we've made and pretend it'syour own.'" Again, the formulas mightbe OK-even good-but they're a littlemisleading, since they weren't alwaysdeveloped by the person whose nameis on the bottle. "There are many com-panies in the skin-care field that lookfor doctors to endorse lines they havemade. There's nothing wrong with that,although a distinction should be madebetween 'doctor-endorsed' and 'doctor-created,'" Bernstein says.

Sometimes this union ·with a bigcompany comes later. DermatologistHoward Sobel developed and foundeda successful line, DDF, that was soldto Procter & Gamble in 2007, and heremains a consultant to the line. "Thepurchase of DDF by Procter & Gamble

161

made available the vast research anddevelopment that other small skin-care lines don't have," Sobel says.

efore you start won-dering if any der-matologist lines areworth their price tag,here's the good news:There are plenty ofgreat lines out there,

too. One chemist describes collaboratingwith "Dr. Y" in the following way: "Shewas a top-flight scientist and derma-tologist, so she was in the lab for yearsresearching the active ingredients to

II

Dr.Who?

When doctors suggest that patientsbuy their own skin-care products, itfeels

like the ultimate endorsement.ensure they were in high enough concen-trations and stable," the chemist recalls."She had the formula clinically tested byone of the strictest independent labs outthere to make sure it achieved results anddidn't cause irritation. And this doctoralso owned the formulation and patent-ed some of the technology-another wayyou know it's something totally new."

In terms of the role even the most scien-"tifically minded doctors play in productdevelopment, "they're not necessarilymixing them in a beaker themselves, butthey are extremely hands-on," the chem-ist explains. "They are researching ingre-dients, working closely with a chemistuntil the ·formula is strong and stableenough and has all the other qualities

With lasers, syringes, and a prescription pad at their disposal, doctors can fix flaws intheir offices. But can they make a difference with an over-the-counter cream? Here, thebest dermatologist lines and their standout products. -SOPHIA PANYCHANDBROOKELEPOERTRENCH

Sadick Dermatology GroupTHE BACKSTORYNeil Sadick is the dermatologist to ask

about the next big thing (he runs clinical trials for the FDAand has a clinic in New York City).

THE LINE Sephora asked Sadick to develop an easy-to-use

anti-aging regimen. He included the ingredients that have

proved most impressive in his research (peptides, retinols,

AHAs) and formulated a line with just three products: a daycream, a night cream, and a serum.

THESTANDOUTSadick Dermatology Group PM Reversal

Serum. "The combination of retinol and AHAs should providesignificant anti-aging results," says cosmetic chemist

/

Ron Robinson. Those ingredients have been shown to

smooth lines, reduce blotches, and boost firmness.

Dr. Dennis GrossSkincareTHEBACKSTORYFor years,

YDennis Gross, a New York City

dermatologist and skin-cancerresearcher, mixed gentle anti-

aging treatments for his patients

~ to use between visits. In 2002,

Wi' he bottled the most popular ones.:::::. THE LINE Gross is known for

innovation. For example, "he took

the in-office glycolic peel-

which is effective but so irritating-and formulated a two-step

at-home peel that most peoplecould tolerate," says Wilson.THE STANDOUT Dr. Dennis Gross

Skincare Extra Strength Alpha

Beta Peel is "still the best over-

the-counter peel because it's

the strongest, yet doesn't irritate,"

says dermatologist Doris Day. Thisfast-acting formula speeds up cell

turnover, smooths wrinkles,and minimizes pores (the original

version is mild, for sensitive skin).

LaseResultsTHE BACKSTORYBernstein, a top dermatologic laser surgeon, heads two advisory

boards for laser companies and has a research lab for developing ingredients.

THE LINE Bernstein's products mimic many of the skin-smoothing and brightening

benefits of laser surgery. All six products contain a version of his CRV-8 complex,

made up of antioxidants, AHAs, peptides, and lightening agents.

THE STANDOUT LaseResults PM Intensive Focused Repair Lotion. "It's rare that yousee a formula with 10 percent citric acid - it will do a similar job as AHAs at this

strength, but with less irritation," says Wilson. Over time, the lotion repairs cell

damage, improves skin tone, and makes pores look smaller.

Dr. MacreneSkin ResultsTHE BACKSTORY

A dermatologist

and molecular biologist,Macrene Alexiades-

Armenakas has a New

York City clinic and

a lab where she tests

ingredients and ~researches cellular repair.THE LINE Alexiades-

Armenakas's simple but

lofty goal: to develop one

cream for numerous skin

problems. "She has a

deep understanding ofcell-ingredient interaction

and has sourcedingredients that are provento work," says Wilson.

THESTANDOUTOr. Macrene

Skin Results 37 Extreme

Actives contains ferulic

acid, peptides, caffeine,and plankton to smooth

lines and repair celldamage-"at high enough

levels to produce visibleresults," says Wilson.

162

f. -_. -I.

Dr. Brandt1THE BACKSTORY New York City and Miami dermatologist Fredric Brandt was in

medical school, specializing in leukemia research, when he found that natural

antioxidants could fight free-radical damage in skin.THE LINE "Now everyone formulates with antioxidants, but Brandt's skin-care

line was ahead of its time," says Wilson. He later developed products basedon in-office procedures, such as Dr. Brandt Microdermabrasion.

THE STANDOUT Dr. Brandt Pores No More Vacuum Cleaner Blackhead Extractoris an Allure Best of Beauty-winning mask that truly reduces Clogged pores.

Allure/March 2012

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it needs to be an effective treatment-perhaps it requires additional moistur-izers or calming botanicals-and thentesting it on longtime patients andmonitoring the clinicals."

he challenge is toidentify lines by theDr. Y's of the world-and to avoid buyingthe basic formula inthe M.D.-labeled bot-tle. Fortunately, it is

possible to make an informed decision.

1. SCHOOL YOURSELF. Not surprisingly,the doctors who develop the best skin-care lines usually have serious academ-ic credentials or a history of dividingtheir time between their medical prac-tice and a laboratory. "As a generalrule, you can type their first initial andlast name into a medical site calledpubmed.org, and you should see refer-ences in numerous research papers,"says Bernstein. Even if you don't under-stand the content, the fact that the doc-tor publishes his work in peer-reviewedjournals is a good thing-and suggests

DermaDoctorTHE BACKSTORY Dermatologist Audrey G. Kunin noticed patients were

researching skin conditions online-and getting misinformation. So

in 1998 she set up dermadoctor.com to answer questions and distributeestablished products. A year later, she launched her own line.

THE LINE Kunin's products address specific problems. "She helped

women treat overlooked issues, like keratosis pilaris [tiny red bumps that

appear on the arms] and facial hair," says Wilson.

THE STANDOUT DermaDoctor KP Duty Dermatologist Moisturizing Therapy

helps treat keratosis pilaris. "Urea and dimethicone help the skinretain moisture, and glycolic acid sloughs away dead cells," says Wilson.

\ Super by DrNicholas PerriconeTHE BACKSTORY Nicholas V.Perricone first linked

inflammation with aging

in the '80s, then wenton to create topical anti-

inflammatories to addresswrinkles, sagging, and acne.

THE LINE Perricone's first

line, now called Perricone

MD, launched in 1997

with three anti-inflammatoryingredients: vitamin C

ester, alpha lipoic acid,and DMAE. In 2010,

he introduced Super, a

line that utilizes

antioxidants from foods

such as altai and ginger

to fight free radicals and

reduce inflammation.THE STANDOUT Super byDr Nicholas Perricone

Moisturizing Activatorboosts the efficacy of other

products by exfoliating with

glycolic acid and hydrating

with ceramides and oat

proteins - increasing the

penetration of the active

ingredients that follow.

that he knows about true clinical test-ing and scientific standards.2. READ THE FINE PRINT. The small boxon the back of the packaging titled"Drug Facts" is a good place to start:"FDA-controlled active ingredients,such as benzoyl peroxide, will be listedthere, so at least you know they're inthe formula, and at what strength,"says Hema Sundaram, a Washington,D.C.-area dermatologist and theauthor of Face Value: The TruthAbout Beauty (Rodale). Then, "lookfor the words (continued on page 241)

THE BACKSTORY Sobel was an early proponent of combining traditionaldermatology with emerging cosmetic procedures, such as lipo and injectables.THE LINE Sobel didn't agree with the traditional skin-care mantra of cleanse, tone,

moisturize, so he developed his own: cleanse, protect, treat, and moisturize. His

goal: to make sunscreen a daily habit and find natural extracts that deliver

results. Sobel was also one of the first to blend sunscreens with antioxidants.

THE STANDOUT The DDF Sulfur Therapeutic Mask is "an effective, soothing

treatment, especially for people with rosacea and acne-prone skin," says Day. It

absorbs oil and clears blemishes with sulfur, eucalyptus oil, and kaolin clay.

1!..~¥'--""'5"'£1'..,o.1..£,Y£n:tt#.Tfr;;:a<lT_-w..Pi~

Rodan + FieldsTHE BACKSTORY Katie Rodan and Kathy Fields met fresh out of medical

school in the mid-'80s. Their Proactiv system "changed the way

we think about acne by telling us it was preventable," says Wilson.THE LINE In 2002, the doctors developed Rodan + Fields to treat

complex skin problems-such as dullness plus sun damage, or

wrinkles and enlarged pores-with one simple regimen.

THE STANDOUT Rodan + Fields Anti-Age Night Renewing Serum. Each

capsule has one dose of peptides and retinol-"proven ingredients

in a very clever delivery system," says Wilson. "The capsules preservethe retinol so you get the right amount every time."

D£Rf.AAdoctor·

KP du!]'1. '":"~J~7:~:~~

@allure.com/beaufy-producfs/beaufy-producf-finder: For more dermatologist-created skin-care lines-and help finding the creams and serums that are perfect for your complexion-check out the Allure Beauty Product Finder.

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Patricia Wexler M.D.THE BACKSTORY Famous for her expertise with fat injections,Patricia Wexler is the New York City dermatologist behind

many Grammy- and Oscar-winning faces.

THE LINE Wexler had consulted on several big skin-care

lines when Bath & Body Works asked her to create her

own. She based it on a new ingredient that blocks ~collagen-degrading enzymes (called MMPs), becoming

the first to use MMP inhibitors in an anti-aging system.THE STANDOUT Patricia Wexler M.D. Intensive Retinol Eye

Treatment with MMPi-20. "Retinol can be irritating around I '--the eyes, but the anti-inflammatories and moisturizers [i tin this formula prevent redness and drying," says Wilson. r [IMurad "lJ.THE BACKSTORY Howard .....• filii' W,

pomegranateMurad, a dermatologist and Extoli3tlo9 Mas\\.

pharmacist, has spent 30 years

researching the connection

between appearance and

internal health.

THE LINE Murad was one ofthe first to formulate products

with AHAs, vitamin C, and

pomegranate. "He was a realpioneer when it came to usingAHAs," says Sobel.

THE STANDOUT Each single-use

packet of Murad PomegranateExfoliating Mask leaves

combination skin refined and

refreshed with a blend of fruitenzymes and AHAs.

164 Allure/March 2012

Murad.\w>lAp!!

DDF

THE RX FACTOR(Continued from page 164)'clinically proven' on the box, andread the box insert to see what they'veshown," says dermatologist PatriciaWexler, an associate clinical professor atMount Sinai School of Medicine in NewYork City, who also has a respected lineof skin-care products. "You cannot putthat on your product unless the formulahas been tested by an independent lab."3. LOOK FOR PRODUCTS THAT AREN'TONE·SIZE·FITS·ALL. The best doctor linesusually don't promise that their "heroproduct" (the centerpiece of the line)will work for every skin type. "Nota lot of people talk about this, but inorder to see a major change in mostskin problems with a topical cream,the formula will dry out and irritatesome people," says Bernstein, addingthat products with the most powerfulactive ingredients should come withdetailed instructions about properusage. "If you make something that'smild enough for everybody, it's notgoing to work as effectively."4. RETURN TO SENDER. Fortunately forconsumers, those generic lines any doc-tor can slap his name on can be easy tospot. "These products aren't marketedor available in any stores-they're verysmall," a New York-based doctortold us. "Whether they come in plainbottles or have more elaborate labels,they're only available from that oneclinic." One giveaway: The clinic'saddress is right there on the label. Asone chemist explains, they're not nec-essarily bad products, "because theyhave been created by formulators whoknow what they're doing." But they'renot going to be cutting-edge. Not theend of the world-but probably notworth your money, either.5. CHECK FOR A MONEY ·BACK GUAR·ANTEE. "If a doctor believes in his lineand there's real science behind theclaims, he should have a refund policyfor consumers who don't see improve-ment," says Katie Rodan, an adjunctclinical associate professor of derma-tology at Stanford University Schoolof Medicine and cocreator of theRodan + Fields product line. "No for-mula works for everyone in the sameway." But you don't need an "M.D."after your name to know that. +

Allure/March 2012

16 WAYS TO DE-STRESS(Continued from page 172)

14Surroundyourself withbeauty.Admiring a photo of

a model or a movie star just as youwould a work of art could relieve ten-sion. HALF A GROUP OF PEOPLE WHO VIEWED

PHOTOS OF FEMALES WEARING MAKEUP SAID THEY

WERE LESS STRESSED AFTERWARD, accord-ing to a study at the University ofLouisville in Kentucky. The other halfdid not report the same benefit, butthey didn't feel any worse, says PatrickPossel, a professor of psychology whoconducted the study.

15B

eapescatarian.Battling stress can beas simple as ordering

fish at a restaurant. On The Truth AboutFood, a program on the DiscoveryHealth Channel, researchers measuredhormone levels in London cabdrivers,who have highly stressful jobs. When puton a diet of four portions a week of oilyfish like mackerel, a source of omega-3fatty acids, the drivers produced less ofthe stress hormone cortisol and more ofanother hormone, DHEA, that the bodycranks out to combat stress. "When thebody sees omega-3 fatty acids, it feelscalm," says Oz. Walnuts, flaxseeds, andtofu are other excellent sources.

1·6 Playavideo game.The hours your boy-friend and his slacker

buddies spend hooked up to an Xboxmay have an actual benefit. According toresearchers at East Carolina University inGreenville, North Carolina, PLAYING NON·

VIOLENT VIDEO GAMES CAN DECREASE STRESS AND

IMPROVE YOUR MOOD. "Getting absorbed ingames provides a distraction and relaxesthe nervous system," explains CarmenRussoniello, a professor at the univer-sity. "It allows you to shut everythingout." Skip World of Warcraft, even if youlove walloping trolls, and choose some-thing like Peggie instead. "The challengeshould be difficult enough, but not anadded pressure," says Russoniello. +

241

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