DIY - Removing a VR6 Serpentine Belt

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VWvortex Forums 2.8l 12v VR6 Engine Forum DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensioner pulley bearing

VgRt6 Moderator

Offline Member Since 3-7-2002 11944 posts Germantown MD 99.5 Jetta GLS VR6

DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensioner pulley bearing « » 7:08 PM 12-4-2003

I had some free time and all the necessary pics, so I put this little DIY together. Hope it's useful to someone.

REMOVING A VR6 SERPENTINE BELT TENSIONER AND LUBRICATING THE TENSIONER PULLEY BEARING

The following outlines the procedure for removing the serpentine belt tensioner from a VR6 engine and lubricating the tensioner pulley bearing. It is common for the bearing in the pulley to dry out, causing the bearing to become very noisy when the engine is running and eventually, to fail. The lubrication of the bearing as preventative maintenance or at the first sign of noise can significantly extend the lifetime of the tensioner pulley. Since VW does not sell the pulley separately, lubricating the bearing with a few cents worth of grease before bearing failure can prevent you from having to (1) purchase a whole new OEM tensioner unit for $100-200 (depending on where you buy it from), (2) purchase an aftermarket pulley (such as the Adrenalin version) for $50-100 or (3) buying a new bearing and spending the time and/or $$$ to install it in the existing pulley.

The procedure below was based on a '99.5 MKIV Jetta GLS 12v VR6. The steps for accessing the tensioner unit may/will be different on other model VR6s (for example, I believe the airbox must be removed on a MKIII VR6), but the procedure for disassembling the tensioner and lubricating the pulley bearing should be the same.

Please do these procedures at your own risk and be ready to make small adjustments while doing them. Also, please be observant while removing parts so that they back together correctly.

The procedure below is very simple and should take around a half an hour to perform.

The tools/parts needed to perform the procedures are:

1) T30 Torx driver 2) M8x**x1.25 pitch bolt, where ** is the length in mm (available at Home Depot, Lowe's or other hardware stores). I have not specified a length since it varies depending on the model year/version VR6 you have. 2) 13mm socket or wrench 3) 15mm socket or wrench 4) Small screwdriver 5) High-temp wheel bearing grease or other suitable lubricant 6) 6mm hex wrench or socket (if the bolts on your VR removed in Step 5 are this type)

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____________________________________________________________________

REMOVING THE SERPENTINE BELT TENSIONER

1. The serpentine belt tensioner is located on the passenger's side of the engine, as indicated by the yellow arrow in the picture below.

2. Remove the long cover piece on the passenger's side of the engine to reveal the tensioner. To do this, remove the two (2) T30 Torx screws (indicated by the yellow arrows in the picture below) and carefully pull upward on the cover piece.



3. The serpentine belt tensioner is indicted by the yellow arrow in the picture below. The tensioner pulley which applies force to the serpentine belt is indicated by the red arrow.



4. To remove the tension from the serpentine belt, thread a M8x**x1.25 pitch bolt into the threaded hole in the top of the tensioner unit (as indicated by the yellow arrow in the picture below) and turn using a 13mm socket or wrench until the serpentine belt is loose. ** is the length of the bolt in mm and will depend on the model year/version VR6 you have. Basically, you need a bolt that is long enough to fully remove the belt tension before the bolt head threads in completely, but is short enough to not interfere with the fuel lines overhead (red arrows in picture below). On my '99.5 VR6 a 60mm bolt works perfectly, however, on my friend's '00 VR6 the same bolt is too long. I recommend that you purchase a few bolts with different lengths and return the ones that don't work.



5. Once the belt tension has been removed, remove the tensioner unit from the engine by removing the three (3) 13mm bolts indicated by the yellow arrows in the picture below (Note: On some cars, these bolts will be 6mm hex instead). When the three bolts are out, slide the serpentine belt towards the passenger's side of the car and off of the tensioner pulley. You should now be able to remove the tensioner unit from the engine.



NOTE: If you do not plan on lubricating the pulley bearing and reinstalling the tensioner back onto the engine right away, I recommend that you remove the M8 tension-release bolt to release the extra tension from the spring inside the tensioner. While not likely, it's possible that the spring may be damaged or deformed if it sits for too long in an over-tensioned state. If you do remove the tension, make sure to thread the M8 bolt back into the tensioner and reapply tension to the spring before reinstalling the tensioner onto the engine. If you don't, you will not be able to get the serpentine belt back onto the tensioner pulley.

LUBRICATING THE TENSIONER PULLEY BEARING

6. The picture below shows the three main parts of the tensioner unit - the main body, the spring-loaded arm and the idler pulley.



7. Remove the pulley from the tensioner arm by removing the 15mm bolt indicated by the yellow arrow in the picture below (shows the bolt partly removed). NOTE: THE BOLT IS REVERSE THREAD. TURN IT CLOCKWISE TO REMOVE!!!



8. The picture below shows the pulley removed from the tensioner unit. Note that there is a pulley guard (top center of picture) that is used between the bolt and pulley.



9. Use a small screwdriver to remove the seals from each side of the pulley bearing, as shown in the picture below. To do this, insert the screwdriver between the seal and inner race and VERY CAREFULLY pry the seal upward. Make sure you do not damage the rubber coating on the seal or it may not stay in place when reinstalled.



10. The picture below shows the tensioner pulley with both bearing seals removed.



11. Pack each side of the bearing with some high temp. wheel bearing grease or another suitable lubricant, as shown in the picture below. You can also add a drop or two of oil to thin out the grease if it's very thick.



12. The grease that I used is shown in the picture below. I purchased it at either Home Depot or Lowe's (can't remember) for around $3-4.



13. Once the bearing has been packed with grease, carefully reinstall the bearing seals. MAKE SURE THAT THE SEALS ARE INSTALLED FULLY OR THEY WILL WORK THEMSELVES LOOSE AND WEAR AGAINST THE PULLEY GUARD OR TENSIONER ARM WHILE THE PULLEY SPINS.

14. Reinstall the pulley onto the tensioner unit and then reinstall the tensioner unit back onto the engine by following steps 2-8 in reverse. Remember that the pulley bolt is REVERSE THREAD - turn it counter-clockwise to tighten. If you have a torque wrench, the torque spec for the tensioner-to-engine bolts are 18 ft-lbs. I could not find the torque spec for the pulley-to-tensioner bolt, but 30 ft-lbs should be appropriate.

15. After reapplying tension to the serpentine belt and BEFORE starting the engine, check to see that the belt is properly positioned on ALL of the pulleys that it contacts.

Let me know if you have any questions.

EDIT (3/5/04): For those interested in replacing the serpentine belt, the illustration below shows how to route the belt around the various accessory pulleys.



As always, do this procedure at your own risk. I am not responsible for any mistakes that you make. Modified by VgRt6 at 7:40 AM 5-9-2005

Gary Now: '99.5 Jetta GLS VR6 (220,000 miles and counting! ... and no CEL!!! )

Then: '90 Passat GL 16v - (RIP - i.e., Rest in Pain!!! in a junkyard somewhere you LEMON POS - still loved her though )

* Free VAG-COM scans in the DC area - IM me * * The Official VgRt6 MKIV/VR6 DIY Thread Master List *

Point_Blank Member Offline Member Since 10-16-2002 452 posts San Jose CA mk3

Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (VgRt6) « » 8:10 PM 12-4-2003


http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1138563






My car does not have this bolt, is this a bad thing

RadoBoi Member

Offline Member Since 7-30-2003 970 posts Gig Harbor WA 88 Gti VR6


very nice...Will be doing this tommarrow thanks to you...I love free maintinence.

I Have Way Too Much German Pride For My Own Good.

old car 2nd Gear Grind?

ghostrider Member

Offline Member Since 12-14-2001 9972 posts Central Wash University crack rocks in me glove box, magically delicious.

Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (Point_Blank)« » 8:14 PM 12-4-

2003

Quote, originally posted by Point_Blank »My car does not have this bolt, is this a bad thing

i guess you could say that bolts not "oem"

you only put a bolt in there when you want to remove the belt...

nETL malarchy, since 1862

dci 509,253

VgRt6 Moderator

Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (Point_Blank)« » 8:46 PM 12-4-

2003










http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v66/RadoBoi/badggrill.jpg














Quote, originally posted by Point_Blank »

My car does not have this bolt, is this a bad thing

You need to buy it. I mentioned in the DIY that you can get it at Home Depot, Lowes or other hardware-type stores for around $0.50.




GTO1 Member

Offline Member Since 1-27-2003 665 posts Grand Rapids MI 1969 GTO 2004 GTO 1998 Accord


I had this very procedure done today at a dealership in florida after my belt started going haywire, and since i am on vacation, didnt have that much of a choice. $350... yeah, kinda pissed right now. Good write up though.

Money.. so they say.. is the root of all evil today. -Roger Waters

Goobery69 Member Offline Member Since 11-22-1999 2626 posts 1997 VR6 Drivers Edition Ontario, Canada

Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (GTO1) « » 10:35 PM 12-4-2003

Awesome thanks!

1997 Ginster GTI VR6 DE - TT Chip - K&N Intake - FK Konigsport Coilovers

rocket vr6 Member Offline Member Since

Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (Goobery69)« » 10:50 PM 12-4-

2003






















5-6-2002 11722 posts Eastside 2000 GTI 1.8t german made

Good stuff. Add this to the FAQ/DIY post????????????

Quote, originally posted by Buttero J-Lo »holy crap, i would shoot myself if i looked in the mirror and saw you.

Brecken Member

Offline Member Since 9-4-2001 1227 posts West Palm Biatch/Tampa FL/San Diego CA 2000 Golf 1.8T 4dr

Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (rocket vr6)« » 11:31 PM 12-4-

2003

mines makin all kinds of friggin noise...almost like a supercharger

anyway i need to prelace the belt...so i'll hit this while im there. awesome post!

Quote, originally posted by gti250hp »this is an awesome thed, and i believe him, im stayin single as long as i can. like foor instants, i'm drunk right now and i have a gil here i dont know. who cares, i love women and i love vws, so **** em both right? YEAH.. gotta go :beer ;

Quote, originally posted by JettaGT8V80 » yup i quoted myslef since apprently no one read what i wrote

Manic_VR Member Offline Member Since 8-19-2002 896 posts San Antonio Texas '95 GTi VR6

Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (Brecken) « » 12:30 AM 12-5-2003

95' narrow angle black hatch that's shaved, six-box quaife'd, cammed, dumped on BBS with four coats drippin. What it do?

MJM Autohaus sponsored!

kahulaVR6 Member

Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (VgRt6) « » 2:13 AM 12-5-2003





















Offline Member Since 1-10-2003 216 posts Palm Coast FL 2k1 S4

yeah mine was makin the worst noise, bought some WD-40 and pretty much emptied the bottle on it and the pulleys w/o taking out the tensioner, it didn't do anything at first, but then by the second day it was gone, and it hasn't reared it's ugly head yet. Will keep posted

Previous car: 2000 Jetta VR6 5-sp. You'll be missed Current car: 2001 Audi S4 You're helpin' me get over it

phatvr6 Member Offline Member Since 11-13-2001 2394 posts York UK 1994 Corrado 3.2 24v Syncro, 2001 Golf V6 4 Motion, 1991 Golf Country Syncro

« » 5:27 AM 12-5-2003

Just change the bearing, they're only Â£5.

R32 Corrado Syncro (now Haldex) --------------Phase 2 underway.... Golf V6 4Motion ------------------Uni black, black R32 wheels, carbon bonnet RHD Golf Country ----------------Bright blue metallic, ATS Cups, RHD and LPG! H703 ONP, Mk2 Golf VR6 3 door Syncro----Gone! Lupo 1.0E------------------------Gone!

AIIIVentoVR6 Member

Offline Member Since 9-30-2003 505 posts Minneapolis MN 1998 JETTA GLX

Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (Point_Blank)« » 5:54 AM 12-5-

2003

yYu can remove and use one of the three bolt holding the tesioner on to losen tension.

vivagarcia Member Offline Member Since 2-19-2001 1832 posts






















AZ

Vortex at its finest. VgRt6, you're the man.

sikasssvr6 Member

Offline Member Since 11-8-2003 918 posts lakeland fl 2001 black jetta VR6


mine makes a funky screaching right when i crank it up ,but only for about 2 seconds,then goes away,sounds kinda like a belt i guess,could it be this bearing?

when im not playing with cars----> http://www.teamchainreaction.com/

VgRt6 Moderator


Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (AIIIVentoVR6)« » 9:53 AM 12-5-

2003

Quote, originally posted by AIIIVentoVR6 »yYu can remove and use one of the three bolt holding the tesioner on to losen tension.

On some VR6s you can't. I tried this on my '99.5 and my friend's '00 and the bolt is too short.




VgRt6 Moderator

Re: (phatvr6) « » 9:57 AM 12-5-2003










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Quote, originally posted by phatvr6 »Just change the bearing, they're only Â£5.

You can do this, but it's a lot easier and cheaper to lube the bearing instead of tracking down a replacement bearing and installing it. I'm saving the bearing replacement until it NEEDS to be replaced. A dry bearing doesn't need to be replaced, it just needs to be lubed.




VgRt6 Moderator


Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (sikasssvr6)« » 10:00 AM 12-5-

2003

Quote, originally posted by sikasssvr6 »mine makes a funky screaching right when i crank it up ,but only for about 2 seconds,then goes away,sounds kinda like a belt i guess,could it be this bearing?

It could be this bearing. Give the lubing a try and see if it goes away. If not, check your water pump recently.

I lubed my tensioner pulley bearing 16k miles ago and it's been quiet since. Last week, I heard the noise again and figured that the bearing was dry ... again. I removed the tensioner and relubed the bearing twice ... it didn't help. I though maybe the bearing was fried and finally needed to be replaced. That was until my water pump bearing failed soon after. The tensioner bearing is fine - the relubing actually lasts for

quite a lot of miles. Now I just ahve to change the stupid water pump! That's the next DIY.




phatvr6 Member Offline Member Since 11-13-2001 2394 posts York UK 1994 Corrado 3.2 24v Syncro, 2001 Golf V6 4 Motion, 1991 Golf Country Syncro

Re: (VgRt6) « » 10:20 AM 12-5-2003

Quote, originally posted by VgRt6 »You can do this, but it's a lot easier and cheaper to lube the bearing instead of tracking down a replacement bearing and installing it. I'm saving the bearing replacement until it NEEDS to be replaced. A dry bearing doesn't need to be replaced, it just needs to be lubed.

and how long do you think the lube is going to stay in there now you've prised the seal off???

I've got the number for the SKF bearing, I've been meaning to post it up for some time now but I keep forgetting.

R32 Corrado Syncro (now Haldex) --------------Phase 2 underway.... Golf V6 4Motion ------------------Uni black, black R32 wheels, carbon bonnet RHD Golf Country ----------------Bright blue metallic, ATS Cups, RHD and LPG! H703 ONP, Mk2 Golf VR6 3 door Syncro----Gone!



















Lupo 1.0E------------------------Gone!

VgRt6 Moderator


Re: (phatvr6) « » 10:52 AM 12-5-2003

Quote, originally posted by phatvr6 »and how long do you think the lube is going to stay in there now you've prised the seal off???

Mine's lasted 16k miles so far and is still good. Who knows. The seals aren't that great anyway. I don't think removing them has made them any worse. If the noise comes back relatively quickly after relubing then maybe it's time to replace the bearing.

Quote, originally posted by phatvr6 »I've got the number for the SKF bearing, I've been meaning to post it up for some time now but I keep forgetting.

Definitely post the number. At least that would give people the option of doing either one.




Scooter98144 Member

Offline Member Since 7-15-2002 2623 posts Seattle WA 1995 VW GTI VR6 SC 301HP 256 torq

Re: (VgRt6) « » 11:26 AM 12-5-2003

Yea taking the seal out is not the problem and trailer bearing greae is ok but I would sugjest a HIGH end Redline grease for very high speed bearings.

jcorallo Member Offline Member Since 1-17-2001 1423 posts Essex UK 1993 MKIII Golf 2.9 VR6 SC.

Re: (Scooter98144) « » 12:07 PM 12-5-2003






















Good write up, nice pics - prob very helpful if you are really stuck for a bearing.

However, if you can hear the bearing, its dead - fact. No amount of greasing is going to make it better - the damage is done - replace.

The cost of the grease you have there is prob more than the bearing costs...!

Jules

VR6 2.9 + SC = 270bhp / 240lbs-ft

DasoGTI Member Offline Member Since 11-21-2001 563 posts Montreal QC

Re: (jcorallo) « » 2:19 PM 12-5-2003

Nice one Gary! I'm gonna have to do this soon too... But first on the list is taking appart the starter and cleaning it out. Mine's starting to get stuck for a few seconds after initial start up...

I'll make a write up for that as well.

-Dom.

Car by L-Sport.

Need to organise a trip to Montreal Canada? Fun In Montreal Party organisation for out of town people! Come experience the night life!

VgRt6 Moderator


Re: (jcorallo) « » 2:35 PM 12-5-2003

Quote, originally posted by jcorallo »Good write up, nice pics - prob very helpful if you are really stuck for a bearing.

However, if you can hear the bearing, its dead - fact. No amount of greasing is going to make it better - the damage is done - replace.

The cost of the grease you have there is prob more than the bearing costs...!

Jules

It makes sense that the bearing is done when it starts to make noise, but if you catch it early it may be OK. My bearing was making a ridiculous amount of noise before I repacked it and has been silent ever since (16k miles). The pulley doesn't wobble one bit and spins ery smoothly.

Repacking the bearing will not cure everyone's problem, but is a good place to start.

The grease was extremely cheap - only a few dollars. I doubt I could get a bearing around me as cheap.


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VgRt6 Moderator


Re: (Scooter98144) « » 2:38 PM 12-5-2003

Quote, originally posted by Scooter98144 »Yea taking the seal out is not the problem and trailer bearing greae is ok but I would sugjest a HIGH end Redline grease for very high speed bearings.

Yeah, that grease would be optimal, but is probably not necessary. When I purchased the trailer bearing grease, I compared it to a bunch of others, including some synthetics. The trailer bearing grease had the best high temp numbers and I doubt the bearing will see temps anywhere near the grease's limits.




VgRt6 Moderator


Re: (DasoGTI) « » 2:39 PM 12-5-2003

Quote, originally posted by DasoGTI »Nice one Gary! I'm gonna have to do this soon too... But first on the list is taking appart the starter and cleaning it out. Mine's starting to get stuck for a few seconds after initial start up...

I'll make a write up for that as well.

-Dom.

Nice! Can't wait to see it.




corpsedub Member Offline Member Since 8-3-2001 4428 posts























san francisco 06 330i,04 COBRA,01 Eurovan GLS,00 GTi VR6,92 F-150 300 inliner

exellent writeup

<-- typical CL conversation.

maxxam Member

Offline Member Since 4-12-2002 2592 posts Nunavut 1990 Jetta GTX, 1990 Corrado G60, 1986 Jetta CL

Re: (VgRt6) « » 3:31 PM 12-5-2003

Excellent write up, wish there were more like these. Thanks, much appreciated

MBRIDERS....Coming soon....

http://mbriders.neuf.fr

Fantomasz Member

Offline Member Since 8-14-2001 8825 posts 05 GTI 1.8T tiptronic

Re: (maxxam) « » 11:42 PM 12-5-2003

it's possible to remove puley without removing tensioner? puley bolt is on outside the puley

sorry for my english -_- CAR STEREO PARTS http://enfigcarstereo.com/cgi-...omasz

kevwithoutacorrado Member

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Re: (Fantomasz) « » 1:48 AM 12-6-2003










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Member Since 6-9-2000 5713 posts Southern Oregon Coast 1993 Corrado SLC

dry bearings in anything make noise, but are not always dead.

Corrado Classifieds - Free Classifieds for VW Corrados.

Evolution Marine Member Offline Member Since 9-18-2003 973 posts Newport Beach CA 2002 540i BMW Wagon, 1978 SEL Merc., & 1995 GLX


VgRt6 - Thanks for the post. We all appreciate the time and effort this kind of post takes and I am sure it will be referred to for many years to come. BTW I hope this post makes it into the FAQ VR6 post. - Thanks again - Bob

HP and TORQUE are beautiful things!

James 93SLC Member

Offline Member Since 9-27-2000 1541 posts Northeast OH 93 Corrado SLC & 02 Passat Variant V6 4Motion

Re: (phatvr6) « » 12:16 PM 12-6-2003

Quote, originally posted by phatvr6 » and how long do you think the lube is going to stay in there now you've prised the seal off???

He didn't leave the seals off. You need to reinstall them, and if you are careful, they will seal just the same. I've worked with lots of sealed bearings and removing and reinstalling seals is a no brainer.

Good writeup Gary

James There is a fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness." 93 SLC ...Turn2, TT Exhaust, Koni, TT Chip The 12V VR6 headgasket/timing chain/cooling system parts list Replacing the Corrado hood release + part numbers

VgRt6 Moderator

Re: (James 93SLC) « » 1:14 PM 12-6-2003




http://www.vwhowto.com/corrado/













http://www.bethandjames.com/headgasket.htm

http://www.bethandjames.com/corrado_hood_release.htm







Quote, originally posted by James 93SLC » He didn't leave the seals off. You need to reinstall them, and if you are careful, they will seal just the same.

Exactly. See step 13.




zealot.us Member Offline Member Since 12-6-2003 3 posts Dallas TX 2000 VW Jetta VR6


Thanks again for the great tutorial. The tensioner on mine (2000 Jetta) required a 40mm long bolt to take all the tension off. Now it will be going up for sale (totally had it with the POS), it's really unbelievable the things that have gone wrong with a car that has 38k miles on it. I shall never return to the VW's. Great forum you got here though.

RadoBoi Member

Offline Member Since 7-30-2003 970 posts Gig Harbor WA 88 Gti VR6

Re: DIY - Removing a VR6 serpentine belt tensioner and lubricating the tensione ... (zealot.us) « » 1:51 PM 12-7-2003

Ok my dad works in a machine shop and hes gonna get me a new bearing for free...how do you get the bearing out of the pully? Thats my question. Thanks!

I Have Way Too Much German Pride For My Own Good.

old car 2nd Gear Grind?

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DIY - Removing a VR6 Serpentine Belt