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THE WRITING’S ON THE WALL

Opposite: Relaxing atWoody A in Bophut’s

self-styled Fisherman’sVillage, where traditional

wooden houses nowhost an array of shops

and restaurants.

Thailand’s most popular tourist island after Phuket, once-

sleepy Koh Samui is now on the map for upscale travelers,

thanks to the growing number of luxury resorts and a new wave of

boutiques and cafés

SIZING UP

SAMUI

BY LAURENKELANA

PHOTOGRAPHS BYJASON MICHAEL LANG

APRIL/MAY2011 — DESTINASIAN — 77

On a quiet street of wooden houses in Bophut’sFisherman’s Village, a casual shop and bar called Woody A awaits thecrowds. A wardrobe full of the latest lines from local designers invitesbrowsing, a selection of spotted ceramic teapots sits on the shelf behindthe bar, a handful of tables are prettily decorated with small flower vases,and a motley variety of folding wooden chairs, bench seats, and printcushions offer a welcome respite on a hot Sunday afternoon.

Taking a seat in a folding chair on the front veranda, I get the won-derful feeling of having been welcomed into the home of a group ofcreative, modern bohemians. A friendly blonde waitress wanders overto take my order, but, once served, I’m left to my own devices, free tobrowse the shelves, try on clothes, even take a turn on the PlayStationset up alongside the bar.

Woody A is a surprise find, a café-cum-boutique that wouldn’t beout of place in one of Asia’s most stylish neighborhoods; yet here it isin Koh Samui, an island that a couple of decades ago was little morethan a dot on the edge of Asia’s backpacker trail. Back then, even get-ting to the island, some 700 kilometers south of Bangkok, required anarduous trek. First one had to go overland to the port of SuratThani, and then by fishing boat to Nathon, Samui’s main town. Fromthere, adventurous travelers would be left to make their own way downthe sparsely populated island’s sole dirt road in search of a secluded,pristine white-sand beach or a simple seaside bungalow to rent for thenight. Later, the island became a stopping-off point on the beach-rave,full-moon-party circuit, leading to a concentration of cheap andsleazy bars and crash pads around the east-coast town of Chaweng.

Times have changed, though. The island’s powdery beaches,clear blue waters, teeming coral reefs, and dramatic rock formationscouldn’t stay a secret forever. In 1989, Samui’s airport opened on thenortheast part of the island. The 1990s saw an influx of tour boats, andnow, with annual arrival numbers that can reach seven digits, more than300 hotels on the island, and dozens more in the works, Samui seemsfirmly established as a holiday hot spot.

The transformation is so complete, in fact, that I’m greeted witha look of surprise when I ask Mikhail Romeiko-Gurko and Inna Pre-obrazhenskaya—the carefree young Russian couple who own WoodyA—why, out of all the places in the world, they chose to open up shopin Samui. “Why not?” Mikhail responds. “It’s great here, the ultimatelifestyle for us. We came here on vacation a few times and fell in lovewith the relaxed attitudes and laid-back vibe of the island.” Relocat-ing, he says, was an easy decision. “When we got back to Moscow lastyear we were so disillusioned that we made up our minds to move. Wewere totally fed up with the dreary weather and the political situationin Russia.”

Last October, the couple left Russia behind, catching a southboundplane in search of an island idyll. They rented a cheap but charmingwooden shophouse and set about making a home in the upper floorsand a business below, opening Woody A in December. Now, they’re urging friends from Moscow to join them. “It’s one of those places whereyou can dream a life, and then make it happen. Perhaps it’s somethingto do with Buddhism,” Mikhail muses.

Looking out at their charming street, where songbirds sing out

ROAD SHOWFrom left: The main intersection in Bophut’sFisherman’s Village; lunchtime at a sidewalk noodleshop in Nathon, Samui’s main town. Opposite: The aptly named Cliff Restaurant overlooks the Gulf of Thailand near Lamai.

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SAMUI IN STYLEClockwise from above: A pod chair in the lobby of

the W Retreat Koh Samui; the Africa-themed sectionat Namcha Tea Room; Thai jewelry for sale at Baan

Ngerm, a boutique in Bophut’s Fisherman’s Village; asalad at the W Retreat’s Kitchen Table

SHELL GAMEClockwise from above: Villagers digging for cockles at low tide on Choeng Mon Beach, and proudly showingoff a handful of their catch; Samui’s coastal road as itwinds around Elephant Rock, a granite outcrop north of Lamai; a beach bar in Bophut

80— DESTINASIAN — APRIL/MAY2011

from ornate wooden cages and young children walk by hand in handwith their parents, it’s not hard to understand why they moved. Yethowever much they yearn for a simple castaway existence, they say they are just as grateful for Samui’s increasingly sophisticated breedof tourist, and the luxury hotels that provide them with clientele.

Leading the way in the latest wave of this upscale renaissance wasthe Four Seasons Samui, which first opened its doors in February 2007on the island’s northwest coast. According to Rainer Stampfer, whoarrived in 2006 to serve as opening manager, the island wasn’t evenon the Four Seasons’ radar until a local developer approached themwith a proposal. “We would have loved to be able to say that we werethe ones who saw the potential in Samui, but it was a project that wasbrought to us,” he says. “When I arrived it still looked very much likea sleepy island. There was Chaweng on the east coast, where touristswould be found. Obviously, that’s where the island gets its backpackerimage from, but there wasn’t all that much else other than thatscene.” And the project site, though blessed with dramatic views anda private cove, was completely undeveloped, forcing construction work-ers and hotel staff to scramble up and down a dirt path. “It was just ahill with plenty of coconut palm trees—hard to imagine that it wouldbecome the resort that it is today.”

It’s clear that efforts have been made to preserve the palm grovesand fruit trees that dot the grounds, but beyond that, when I arrive atthe Four Seasons, I see few traces of the rugged, primitive sceneStampfer describes. Indeed, from the moment I arrive at the airport,

where I find myself being rescued from a throng of sweaty touristsmilling around a baggage carousel, and ushered into the cushy safetyof a chauffeured Mercedes-Benz, I’m enfolded in a cocoon of luxury.The car heads north, past the quiet seaside village of Maenam, and ontoward Nathon, eventually turning left, up a steep incline, into the lux-ury property that was once a simple palm-studded hill.

From here, the day-to-day goings-on of the island don’t seem tomatter much. My mornings begin with breathtaking views across theGulf of Thailand from La Tania, a Thai restaurant located among thetreetops, and my evenings end at Pla Pla with a meal of freshly caughtseafood beside the swaying palm trees of the resort’s private beach. Thedays pass by with kite-making and massage lessons, astrology read-ings, meditation, and yoga classes. The only indication that time is passing by arrives in the form of small notes from the spa placed onthe bed each day, recommending signature treatments inspired by thephases of the moon.

Following in the footsteps of the Four Seasons, the Banyan TreeSamui, which opened in mid-2010 five clicks south of Chaweng in aprivate U-shaped cove, acts as an island within an island—completewith private villas, poolside hammocks, butler service, and an elabo-rate spa complex with a rain forest theme. The resort cascades downa rocky hillside toward the sea, ensuring gorgeous views from everystructure. Apart from the need to scramble to avoid guests careeningaround in the resort’s golf buggies, life is easy, and days pass by in ahaze of sunshine, good food, spa treatments, and the sound of the waves

SAVORING SAMUIA bowl of tom kha coconut-milk soup with sea

scallops at Banyan Tree Samui’s mod-Thai Saffronrestaurant, below. Right: Inside a pool villa at

the same resort. Opposite: Looking out across the private cove toward the Banyan Tree’s lobby.

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crashing against the shore. The cliff-hugging Saffron restaurantserves a pleasing selection of Thai dishes, the spa highlights local herbsand techniques, and the fitness activities include lessons in muay thaialongside more standard classes. Still, it seems at times that the clos-est encounters with the rest of the island, and indeed with the rest ofThailand, come in the lobby lounge, where a nautical telescope has beenset up for people to watch the fishing boats floating in the distance.

That said, I am able to break away for a visit to nearby Wat Sum-ret, one of the oldest temples on the island. To one side of the main struc-ture, two giant yaksa (demon) statues stand guard over the entranceto a sanctuary called the Secret Hall of Buddhas. I tiptoe past tinyceramic vases filled with lotus buds and through the doorway into dark-ness, followed closely by an elderly monk. Dust and incense fill the air,and then the light comes on, flooding the hall with a golden lumi-nescence. Along one wall of the chamber, a large reclining Buddha liessurrounded by dozens of other meditative statues, including a toweringMandalay Buddha, a rarity in southern Thailand. There isn’t a morebreathtaking sight on the island.

BANYAN TREE AND THE FOUR SEASONS may keep themselvesat a stately distance from the hustle and bustle of Chaweng, but they’veundoubtedly put the island on the luxury travel map. Cementing thatreputation is the latest high-profile five-star debut, the W Retreat KohSamui, which brought its brand of party-hearty insouciance to theisland’s north coast, just down the road from Bophut. Walkingthrough reception and into the lounge, it’s plain to see that the islandhas moved well beyond the days when it was beloved only by scruffy,

budget-minded travelers. Here, well-heeled young jet-setters areencouraged to drink, relax, and socialize to their hearts’ content, sur-rounded by the resort’s collection of fashion- and design-oriented cof-fee-table books, couches with color-coordinated sequined cushions, andbars that stay open until the wee hours.

This easygoing vibe continues beyond the welcome area; at the endof each row of beachside villas, self-service refreshment stationshave been set up allowing guests the freedom to grab an ice cream ora drink en route to the beach, and the swimming pool and the well-equipped gym are open around the clock. The W’s “whatever, when-ever” philosophy means that here at the resort, it’s all go, go, go—andthough the rooms are spacious and comfortable, with wooden decks,giant beds, and designer furnishings, the guests that W attracts arenot always the type to be happy secluding themselves within the resort’sgrounds.

It’s this new breed of style-conscious young travelers, more thananyone else, that is likely to ensure the economic future of the boutiquescropping up around the island. “Our guests are constantly asking usfor advice on where they can go and what they can do around the island,”explains Christian Humbert, the W Samui’s director of sales. “Theydon’t want to go to trashy tourist places, they want to go to stylish,interesting places that they can go home and tell their friends about.The eclectic mix of stylish boutiques and cafés in Bophut is such a welcomed introduction to the island,” he adds. “We are in the processof creating a list of recommendations and the new influx of style-con-scious boutiques in Bophut are perfect.”

Seeking, it seems, to appeal to precisely this CONTINUED ON PG. 108

RISE AND SHINEFrom left: Early morning at the old fishing pier inBophut; stylish seating at the W Retreat’s Kitchen Table restaurant. Opposite: Perusing the menu at About Art & Café, a popular hangout near the water in Nathon.

demographic, Namcha, a homey teahouse inBophut has posted a sign above its entrance,billing itself as “Where Friends Gather forTea.” In stark contrast to the legion of bare-bones roadside cafés and restaurants built upin the area over the last decade, Namcha’s lux-uriantly decorated interior is cozy, welcoming,and warm. Guests can choose from a dizzyingarray of teas from around the world, andconsume them in Chinese, African, Japanese,or English-themed nooks. I settle on a pot oforange chai, and make my way to the Africansection, a semi-enclosed courtyard full ofcarved wooden tables and boldly patternedcushions depicting women in African attire.Before my tea has even cooled enough todrink, Michelle Ho, the shop’s straight-talk-ing Philippine-Australian owner, stops byfor a chat.

I’ve been watching her dash around theshop since I came in, struck by the air offeisty determination she projects as she directsher staff, helps her daughter with homework,

and still makes time to personally greet cus-tomers. This woman is clearly serious abouther business. “I’ve been coming to Samui foryears,” she tells me. After bouncing back andforth between Thailand, Australia, and Sin-gapore, trying her hand at everything fromhotel management to advertising sales, shefinally decided the time was right to settle onthe island. “I always had Samui on my mind.This little town in particular has evolved intoa sophisticated but still casual community. I’vebeen passionate about tea for a long time and,with all the recent resort openings, I decidedto take the opportunity to open my dream busi-ness—a place where I could run a successfulbusiness, but at the same time live a quiet lifesurrounded by friends and family.”

Like Inna and Mikhail from Woody A, whoare calling on their Muscovite friends to jointhem, Michelle, too, seems determined toenlist others to join her crusade to transformBophut into a new center for boutique, design-oriented businesses. The well-spoken youngwaiter who serves my tea tells me he was ablemigrate from Manila to Samui with Michelle’sassistance, bringing his wife and daughter withhim. Before I leave Namcha, Michelle eventries to convince me to stay. “Samui needs morecreative young women,” she exhorts.

As I stroll down the road from the tea-house, I reflect that I could find myself in worsecompany. Mazima, just a little way down theroad, is a modern take on the street-side mas-

sage parlor, offering the same prices astheir cheaper-looking counterparts,while providing a cheery, inviting envi-ronment with modern teak furnitureand brightly colored walls. Next door,an eclectic clothing store called Bohemeis crowded with Frenchwomen eagerlysnapping up a selection of Bangkok-designed clothes. Racks of new designsare squeezed between an array of cutevintage dresses and jackets, embroi-dered quilts, traditional silks, and atable stacked to the roof with hats andother accessories. With its atmosphericstreets and entrepreneurial spirit, thetown feels full of possibility.

On the other side of the island inTaling Ngam, however, I find at leastone local shop owner who seems am-bivalent at best about Samui’s growingpopularity. Khun Boyd, who brews amean espresso at his beachside OrganicCoffee Shop, strikes me as just the sortof businessman who will profit from aninflux of high-end tourists to the island.But Boyd, who arrived here seven years

ago after his native Chiang Mai had becometoo hectic for him, shakes his head at thethought of moving closer to Bophut, or to oneof the new luxury enclaves. “Why would I dothat?” he asks. “I moved here from Chiang Maito set up a peaceful life by the sea. I came herefor peace and quiet, not for money.”

Appearing equally content with one cus-tomer or with five, he says he’s not excitedabout the potential flood of new customersbrought here by the newly opened resorts, orthose who will surely visit the Conrad, theMövenpick, and the legion of other five-starproperties in the pipeline—even if they standto benefit his bottom line. “I’m not after thecrowds” he says, “I hope they don’t come. Ifthey do, I might just have to move.”

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THE DETAILS KOH SAMUI—GETTING THEREBangkok Airways(bangkokair.com)has daily direct flightsto Samui from HongKong, Bangkok, andSingapore.

—WHEN TO GO Ifyou’re seeking blueskies and sunshine,head to Samuibetween Decemberand February tomake the most ofsouthern Thailand’sdry season. FromMarch, temperaturesincrease to between28–35°C until September, whenthe monsoon seasonbrings humidity andfloods of rain.

—WHERE TO STAYW Samui 4/1 Moo 1,Tambol Maenam;66-77/915-999;starwoodhotels.com;villas from US$1,055.Banyan Tree Samui99/9 Moo 4, Maret;66-77/915-333;banyantree.com; villas from US$1,125,including breakfast. Four Seasons Samui219 Moo 5, Angthong;66-77/243-000;fourseasons .com;villas from US$792.

The Library A book-oriented design hotel in Chawengrecognized for itsblood-red swimmingpool. 14/1 Moo 2,Chaweng Beach; 66-77/422-7678; thelibrary.co.th; studiosfrom US$262.Hansar Samui Thissleek new 74-roomresort is located nearFisherman’s Villageon Bophut Beach.101/28 Moo 1,Bophut; 66-77/245-511; hansarsamui.com; doubles fromUS$182.—PLACES TO TRYOrganic CoffeeShop A cute roadsidestop on the westcoast serving up theisland’s best coffee.30/5 Moo 5, TalingNgam; 66-87/893-9669.Magic Alambic RumDistillery Lessons in rum making and ataste of Thailand’sonly boutique agricultural rum. 44/5 Moo 3, TalingNamuang; 66-77/419-023.Namcha Tea RoomThanon Bophut,Fisherman’s Village;66-77/427-115;namchasamui.com.About Art & CaféNathon Beach Rd.,Nathon; 66-77/236-201; juneartcafe.comWoody A Shop & BarThanon Haad,Bophut Fisherman’sVillage; 66-77/8018-33759.

KOH SAMUICONTINUED FROM PG. 83

The lobby at Hansar Samui resort.

Bangkok

Koh Samui

THAILAND