LasemE X P L O R I N G T H E S O U L O F I N D O N E S I A N H E R I T A G E

PRAETERITUM

History Memory

Nostalgia

PRAESENS

Cultural Heritage Harmony in Diversity

FUTURUM

Conservation  Strengthen Local Connect Global

D I S C O V E R

D I S C O V E R L A S E M

I S S U ED BY D I S COVER L A S EM I N

CO L LABORA T I ON WI TH THE TOUR I SM AND

CU L TURA L AUTHOR I T Y OF REMBANG

REGENCY , CEN TRA L J A VA , I NDONES I A

( 2 0 1 7 )

C O N T E N T S

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"KESENGSEM LASEM" means deeply in love with

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0 1History

0 2The Town of Opium Funnel

0 3Little Tiongkok!

0 4Harmony in Diversity

0 6The Town of Santri

0 7Three Kingdoms Batik

0 9Community Based Sustainable Tourism

1 0Conservation, Tourism and Community

1 110 Things You Should Do in Lasem

Cover Model: Dewi Anggraini Location: Lie Thiam Kwie Mansion Batik: Ong's Art Maranatha Kebaya: Tan Hian Nio collection, 1960 Photo by Astri Apriyani Layout: Kesengsem Lasem

T H E T O W N O F C U L T U R A L H E R I T A G E D I V E R S I T Y

  W E P R O V I D E S O M E T O U R P A C K A G E SA S F O L L O W , B A S E D O N T H A T Y O UM A Y H A V E S U I T A B L E C H O I C E W I T HY O U R S C H E D U L E :

1 . I S L A M I C , J A V A N E S E A N D C H I N E S EI N D O N E S I A N S C U L T U R A L H E R I T A G ET O U R 2 . T H R E E K I N G D O M S B A T I K T O U R 3 . G A S T R O N O M Y T O U R 4 . A R C H I T E C T U R E T O U R 5 . C U L I N A R Y A N D S H O P P I N G T R I P     6 . C O S T U M I Z E D T R I P A N D T O U R  

W E A L S O P R O V I D E A N A S S I S T A N C ET O : 1 . V O L U N T A R Y T O U R I S M 2 . N E W S C O V E R I N G   3 . R E S E A R C H A C T I V I T I E S

Colorful Lasem

Lasem is a kecamatan (district), that lies in

the coast of Java Sea in the Regency of

Rembang. It is located more or less 12 km to

the east of the capital of Rembang Regency,

Central Java, Indonesia. 

Lasem has a long history, including both pre-

historic and historic eras (2000 BCE until

today). It possesses massive tangible

heritages scattered across 45km2. These

include the remains of pre-historic

(Plawangan Kragan and Leran Archaeological

Site), Hindu-Buddhist, Islamic, and colonial

periods.

Lasem owns intangible heritages that have

been passed down from Hindu-Buddhist,

Islamic, Javanese, Arabic, and Colonial

(Dutch/European) traditions. Its area has also

a wide-ranging geographical landscapes that

include seas, beaches, rivers, plains, hills,

plantations, rice fields, and farms. In

Indonesia, Lasem is well known as home to

multicultural society that maintains

tolerance toward its diverse communities.

Nowadays, Lasem develops a tourism concept

that is based on cultural heritage

conservation and community.

History

1 D I S C O V E R L A S E M

Mas Dungit, Javanese Wayang artisan, Sendangasri Village Photo by Feri Latief

During 18th and 19th centuries, Lasem was serving as a

port for the largest opium trade on Java along with the

neighboring town of Juwana. Lasem generated

tremendous wealth from the trade and became an

affluent town. The remnants of such riches can still be

seen in the Chinatowns of Lasem, Soditan, Gambiran,

Karangturi, and Babagan. “Great and splendid buildings

adopting Fujian Chinese, Chinese-East Indies, Indische

Empire, and colonial architectures are scattered across

Lasem Old Town.” A total of 250 buildings, both well-

preserved and abandoned, still survive to this day. The

uniqueness of Lasem’s Chinatown lies in the absence of

two-storey, elongated shophouses. Each of the entire

buildings stands on plots in minimum sizes of 1,500 sqm.

In 1860s, opium trade saw a decline as the Dutch

established a monopoly of it. Consequently, Batik houses

began to flourish in the area, and Lasem soon moved

toward becoming a ‘Batik town’ as its Batik products were

gaining attention, especially in Malaysia and Singapore.  

2 |   D I S C O V E R L A S E M

THE TOWN OF OPIUM FUNNEL

Opium House, Soditan Village Photo by Feri Latief

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Little Tiongkok!By the end of 19th century, Lasem has been knowing as Little Tiongkok.

Touristic activities in Lasem have been around since early 20th century, and it is largely due to the fact that the district has intangible heritages originating from the pre- historic, Hindu-Buddhist, Islamic, and Colonial as well as post-colonial periods.  In addition, the acculturation of Islamic, Javanese, Chinese and European traditions has colored the culture in the district, attracting tourists. 

Fujian Kampong, Soditan Village Photo by Feri Latief

Cu An Kiong Temple, Soditan Village Photo by Astri Apriyani

Chinese doors, Babagan Village Photo by Veri Sanovri

Gus Zaim is one of famous Islamic leader in Lasem. His Islamic Boarding School is located in Karangturi Village, one of Chinese old Chinese quarters in Lasem. Several Islamic boarding school are also located and near Lasem Chinese settlement. 

Photo by Feri Latief, copyright National Geographic Indonesia, 2016

Harmony in

Diversity

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Harmony inDiversity

THE SPIRIT OF

TOLERANCE IN

INDONESIA NOWADAYS

HAS BEEN SHAPED BY

THE HISTORY

Lasem had become a place of refuge for the Chinese fleeing the genocide perpetrated against them in 1740 in Batavia. Narratives pertaining to this major event remain a mere oral history as no historical accounts have ever been written about it. Lasem is also a silent witness to several historical events that exhibit multiculturalism and tolerance.

The Javanese, Chinese, and Arab people in Lasem locked arms in the wars against colonialism. One example of such wars in which the Chinese troops marched to the battleground includes Geger Pacinan or Perang Kuning (Yellow War) which broke out in 1740—1743. Prominent Chinese figures in the war involved Raden Panji Margono, Oei Ing Kiat (Raden Ngabehi Widyadiningrat), and Tan Ke Wie (Kung Fu expert).

These three figures have been immortalized and revered at Gie Yong Bio Temple (Babagan Temple). Lasem had been known as Kung Fu Village around this time, and its Kung Fu experts fought alongside the Muslim Javanese against VOC (Dutch East India Company)!  

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Red House, Tiongkok Kecil Heritage, Karangturi  Village Photo by Feri Latief

Copyright of National Geographic Indonesia, 2016

THE TOWN OF SANTRI

Lasem is home to 28 pondok pesantren (Islamicboarding schools), which are deemed as one ofthe best places for Santri (student) to ‘Nyantri'(to learn Islam). Since 19th century, the town hasbeen well-known for the revered Ulamas(Muslim scholars) who reside there, such as KyaiHaji Baidhowi, Kyai Haji Maksum, and Kyai HajiMasduki. The pesantren traditions and Ulamashave still characterized Lasem as a Santri(Muslim students) town.  

The introduction of Islamic traditions intoLasem has a long history. However, there wereat least two prominent figures who influencedthe development of Islam in Lasem, namelySunan Bonang (15th century) and Eyang Sambu(or Mbah Sambu, whose real name was SayyidAbdurrahman Basayaiban) who died in 1671.The grave of Mbah Sambu lies next to theCentral Mosque of Lasem.  

As a Santri town, Lasem has several spots for religious tourism, including Sunan Bonang mosque and cemetery in the village of Bonang Binangun, a final resting place of prominent Islamic figures in Lasem during 17—18 centuries, grave complex of Champa Princess, and several other spots that become a silent witness to Islamic civilization in Lasem. It is no wonder, then, that Lasem pins down its position as a major destination for pilgrimages or religious tourism for the Muslims across the archipelago. Some of the oldest pondok pesantren (Islamic boarding schools) in Lasem include:

 1. Al Hidayat 2. Al Islah 3. An Nur 4. Al Wahdah  5. Al Fahriyah.

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Islamic teaching in Islamic Boarding School Photo by Ellen Kusuma

THREEKINGDOMSBATIK

Legend has it that Batik made its way to Lasemduring the period of Na Li Ni, a Champaprincess, wife of Bi Nang Un and a part ofZheng He expeditions (1405—1433) whichintroduced the technique of Batik making. TheBatik industry owned by the Chinese had sincethrived until it entered a golden period in1860s. At the time, Batik production was thesecond most profitable business after opiumtrade. Owners of Batik companies employedaround 2,000 people to undertake artisticprocesses and about 4,000 for otherprocesses.

Lasem’s Batik motifs have been influenced bysymbolic motifs emanating from Chinesetraditions, such as dragon motif (whichrepresents majesty), phoenix motif or themythological bird Fenghuang (which meansbeauty), and flower motif (which exhibitsprosperity and beauty).

Local elements have also been added to enrichthe motifs, such as plants and animals of theocean and kricakan, which symbolizes theLasem people during the building of the GreatPos Road through forced labor. They alsocreated a long Batik cloth and tokwi (a clothused to cover up an altar/zhuowei) cloth,which is well-known in the Babah tradition inSingapore. At the time, Batik products ofLasem were exported to Singapore and SriLanka in large numbers until 1970s, when thecharm of Lasem’s Batik slowly wore off. 

Three Kingdoms batik refers to an authenticLasem's batik that represent the place of thebatik coloring processes. Chinese Red'Chicken Blood' represent Lasem, Dutch Bluerepresent Pekalongan and Javanese Brown'Sogan' represent Solo. Those three arerepresentation of the city of batik in colonialera. 

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1.Three Kingdoms batik, Maranatha Ong's Art collection. Photo by Feri Latief 2.Batik and 'canting', Maranatha's workshop. Photo by Syefri Luwisi

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Handmade batik, batik of Pusaka Beruang. Photo by Astri Apriyani

Javanese 'gamelan' music and traditional dance. Didik Hadiprayitno, Javanese classic dance maestro was perfomed his dance in collaboration with local artisan. Photo by Veri Sanovri

      An ice cream is a sweetened frozen food typically eaten as a snack or dessert. It is usually

Community based Sustainable Tourism

The development of Lasem’s tourism is associated with the conservation of prehistoric and historic sites (2000 BCE until the 15th century), the preservation of ancient buildings (from Chinese period, colonial period, and Javanese on the 16-20th century), preservation of landscapes, mitigation and tourism activities related to climate change, along with preservation of arts and culture, religious practices, and crafts. 

9 | DISCOVER LASEM

Traditional coffee. Photo by Astri Apriyani Traditional Tuyuhan Rice Cake and soup. Photo by Feri Latief

Peranakan Chinese traditions. Photo by Didiet Maulana

CONSERVATION,TOURISM ANDCOMMUNITY

Conservation project was conceived by thegovernment and conservationist community torespect the rights of local people in preservingLasem’s non-object heritages, which include thetraditions, cultural events, arts, crafts and others.Lasem’s society and culture that has a long historyand multicultural formations have the right toprotect their traditions from extinction. Therefore,assisting local people through this program is alsoa form of aiding them to obtain their rights asIndonesian citizens protected by law andlegislation. Preservation (including conservationand protection) of the area of natural and culturalenvironment that has been reinforced withNational regulations State Gazette of 2010 No. 10.

Major infrastructure development and means tosupport tourism preservation is a priority for localgovernments above Lasem’s in order to improvethe lives of citizens (community), to reducepoverty, to protect the environment (water, sea,air, and land), to improve the industry (metal,batik, brass, sugar, salt, wood, and others), and tosustain the city and communities living in it. 

Mangrove conservation, Lasem River. Photo by Astri Apriyani

Lasem cultural landscape, Watu Congol. Photo by Astri Apriyani 10 | DISCOVER LASEM

10 THINGS YOU

SHOULD DO IN

OLD TOWN

LASEM

THE BUCKET LIST

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Vihara Ratanavana Arama, Tluweng Lasem. Photograph: Feri Latief

W H A T T O D O W H E N O L D T O W N L A S E M I S B U R N I N G H O T

Hot weather is exactly

typical of Lasem ’s weather .

But do not worry , there are

always plenty things to do in

Lasem .

Populated with huge

number of heritage building ,

temples , Muslim quarters ,

Javanese culture and

traditional culinary ,

traditional coffee shop ,

museum , and Batik

workshop , here are the 10

things you can do in Lasem

while fending off the hot

weather . 

EDITOR 'S NOTE

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1 . E X P E R I E N C I N G T H E V I N T A G E L I F E O F O L D T O W N L A S E MSee several heritages buildingin the region of Old TownLasem also known as LittleChina or Tiongkok Kecil thatfamous in early 20th Century.You could visit:

(1) Kauman Heritage Kampong,a kampong that holds aJavanese Islamic culture andarchitectures since 17thCentury, Karantgturi. Photograph: Agni Malagina.

(2) Lawang Ombo Heritage,18th Century Fujianarchitecture building, Soditan.Photograph: Feri Latief.

(3) Lie Thiam Kwie Mansion(Tegel Fabriek LZ), 19thCentury Colonial architecturebuilding and its former the lastand the Greatest ChineseLiutenant in Lasem,Karangturi. Photograph: EllenKusuma

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E X P E R I E N C I N G T H E V I N T A G E L I F E O F O L D T O W N L A S E M(4) Tiongkok Kecil (LittleChina) Heritage house with aview of Chinese Indies style,Karangturi. Run by TKH ashomestay, one stop batik storeand community centre.Photograph: Feri Latief.

(5) Opa Oma House with aclassic 19th Chinese Indiesstyle, Karangturi. Photograph:Feri Latief.

(6) Rumah Oei (House ofOei), Built in 1818, ChineseIndies compound belongs toOei family of Lasem,Sumbergirang. Now run by Oeifamily as coffee shop andcommunity centre.Photograph: Agni Malagina. 

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E X P E R I E N C I N GT H E V I N T A G EL I F E O F O L DT O W N L A S E M(7) Lasem District PoliceOffice that bears a 19thCentury Indische Empirearchitecture style, Babagan.Photograph: Feri Latief. 

(8) House of Sigit Witjaksono,19th Century Chinese Hindiaprivate residence and batikhouse, Babagan. Photograph:Ellen Kusuma. 

(9) Omah Londo (Dutch House)Heritage, a 20th colonialarchitecture, Gedongmulyo. Photograph:Agni Malagina. 

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2 . V I S I T I N G T H EO L D E S T C H I N E S ET E M P L E I NI N D O N E S I ATHE TOWN OF OPIUM FUNNEL

(1) CU AN KIONG Cu An Kiong, the first beautifulChinese temple in Lasem, built in16th century. Located in SoditanHeritage Kampong, still in a goodcondition and well preserved by theChinese community. Main Goddess isMazu, the Goddess of the sea.

Photo by Astri Apriyani

(2) POO AN BIO Poo An Bio, second temple was builtin Karangturi Heritage Kampong tohonor Kong Tik Cun Ong, He is oneof the Hokkien Deities that HokkienClan still pay respect to (especiallythe Nan An Group).

Photo by Astri Apriyani

(3) GIE YONG BIO Gie Yong Bio, third Chinese temple inBabagan, Batik Heritage Kampong.Built in 19th Century dedicated to theJavanese-Chinese hero that involvedin Perang Kuning (Yellow War), thebattle of Javanese-Chineseinhabitants in Lasem area againstDutch East Indies army.

Photo by Feri Latief

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16 | DISCOVER LASEM

3. VISITING ISLAMIC HISTORICAL AND RELIGIOUS SITES

Get to know a wide range of Islamic site: memorable mosque, the sanctuary of some greatest Moslem notable figure, hundreds of well known Islamic Boarding School.

17 | DISCOVER LASEM

Location: one of the sanctuary of the notable Muslim figure in Javanese Islamic teaching in Indonesia, Sunan Bonang.

Photo by Astri Apriyani

Lasem the city of Santri* as Halal Destination

A clockwise: 1. 19 th century Classic Arabic manuscript in Lasem's Grand Mosque library. Photo by Agni Malagina 2. The tomb of Champa Princesses. Photo by Feri Latief 3. Lasem's Grand Mosque in the centre of Chinese quarters. Photo by Feri Latief

* Santri: Islamic student

18 | DISCOVER LASEM

4. Drinking the famous ‘Kopi Lelet’ and Do the ‘Ngelelet’At some traditional coffee shop you can enjoy classic taste of

‘Kopi Lelet’ (Lelet Coffee) in Lasem and then try the famous

‘ngelelet’ activities done by the locals every morning at the

coffeeshop.

‘Ngelelet’ is to draw a batik motif on a cigarette by using the

remain of your coffee mixed with condensed milk.

Photograph: Syefri Luwis

You do not have to

smoke, just need to draw

what ever you want to

draw on it and enjoy the

hospitality of the peoples

who loves ‘ngelelet’. 

19 | DISCOVER LASEM

You can visit some traditional spot of eatery or you

can have lunch at several Old Chinese Batik House

and enjoy their signature family recipes or even try

to cook with the family! Would you like to try to

cook those family recipes? Why not! Hot weather

and hot signature food are the magical things that

could only happen in Lasem!

5. ENJOYING MANY TASTY LOCAL AND SIGNATURE FOOD

1. Yopia, Lasem's typical snack, Karangturi. 2. Seaweed dish with a spicy grated coconut and mango. Photograph: Agni Malagina

20 | DISCOVER LASEM

Yaay, Lasem has a Chinese Peranakan Museum named Nyah Lasem Museum. Nyah means Nyonya or nonya or madam, madam of Lasem. Inside the old Chinese Indies House are Tio’s family collections. Tio’s family is one of formerly well-known family in Lasem. 

6. VISITING NYAH LASEM MUSEUM

1. An Old Sewing Machine 2. Soesantio, the owner of the Nyah Lasem Museum. Photograph: Vista Photography

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7. GETTING A BATIK-TASTIC AND JAVANESE CULTURE

EXPERIENCE WITH THE EXPERT

WHETHER IS HOT OR RAINY WEATHER IN LASEM, YOU CAN TRY SOME ACTIVITIES IN BATIK WORKSHOP AND ANOTHER JAVANESE ART WORKSHOP!

LEARN SOME BATIK TECHNIQUES, GET INVOLVED IN BATIK MAKING PROCESSES, WAYANG MAKING, AND TRADITIONAL DANCING; ENJOY ITS

‘FEELS HOME’ FEELING AMONG THE ARTISTS, OWNERS AND BATIK WORKERS.Photograph: Astri Apriyani, Feri Latief, Veri Sanovri, Ellen Kusuma, Agni Malagina, Achdiat Galih

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8. EXPLORING CULTURAL LANDSCAPE AND HISTORY BY RIVER CRUISING

We offer some outdoors

activities. River cruise

could be one of the best

choice to enjoy Lasem

River. Enjoying fisherman

kampong site seeing,

some activities in the

afternoon along the river,

and eating baked fresh

milk fish accompanied by

local peoples, feels a

warm welcome in Dasun

Heritage Kampong.

Photograph: Astri Apriyani

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9. OVERSEEING THE TOWN FROM THE HIGHPOINT

Do you like a more adventurous outdoor experience? Prepare your footwear and trek all the way to the mountainous area of Lasem. Breathtaking view of the city will greet you at sites such as Watu Congol, Kajar View, and Sendangcoyo Terraces Padi Field. You can mingle with the locals and get to know the local communities that manage them!

Photograph: Astri Apriyani

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10. RELISHING IN THE BEAUTIFUL SUNSETLasem has plenty places to see the

orange ball of light setting down in

the horizon. You can visit the

sprawling beaches around the area,

like Karangjahe, Caruban, Dasun,

Binangun and Watu Layar. Take with

you a cup of coffee and enjoy the

afternoon breeze. By the way, the

myth says that in Lasem you will never

see sun setting down right in the

horizon. Is it true? Come and see for

yourself!

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Photograph: Denty P. Nastitie

Photograph: Astri Apriyani

TRAVEL IS NEVER A MATTER OF MONEY, BUT OF COURAGE.

T .S . ELLIOT

Giant Trembesi tree, Pusaka Beruang Workshop, Karasgede, Lasem. Photo Copyright National Geographic Indonesia, 2016,  by Feri Latief