The Coming of Age for Digital Textiles

Ink Jet Printing 2015 Conference

February 4-6, 2015The Florida Hotel & Conference Center

Orlando, Florida 

Industrial Printing Markets

2

Textile

Publishing Graphics

Packaging

Product Decorati

on

Tiles Additive Manufacturing

= Digital Penetration

15%-30% Digital

Growth per year

Present 2% penetration grows to >6% in 5 years

Global Textile Printing Market

ApparelApparel

IndustrialIndustrial

Interior Interior TextileTextile

38%38%

8%8%

54%54%

>30 billion m

ApparelApparel

IndustrialIndustrial

Interior Interior TextileTextile

38%38%

8%8%

54%54%

>30 billion m2 printed per year

Textile Printing

4

Printed Textile

DTF

DTG

= Digital Penetration

Direct To Fabric• Roll To Roll• Printing before Cut

&Sew• Flat and Rotary

Screen

Direct To Garment• Printing after Cut &Sew• Flat Screen Printing

The Applications are Endless….. Swimwear

Silk Accessories

Shirt & Blouses

Sportswear

Interior Textiles

Intimate Apparel

Flag & Banner

Soft Signage

Gaming

IndustrialBanners

Gaming Tables

Apparel

Swimsuits

Silk Accessorie

s

Flags

• Heimtextil – Frankfurt

• Imprinted Sportswear Show - Long Beach, CA – Direct To Garment Printing

• DomoTex – Hannover - Carpeting and flooring printing• Texworld – NYC – Brands and Designers meet Suppliers • Current News

• Businessweek• Hemisphere Magazine

2015 – Great Start

Everyone is talking about Digital Textile Printing (DTP)

“Despite its many production advantages and the substantial savings to be made in water, energy and raw materials, digital printing still has a hill to climb before seriously challenging the established rotary and flat screen processes for textiles. Nevertheless, it’s gaining ground all the time”. John Provost

“The technology requires fewer resources and enables faster production cycles,” she said, “and textile designers can also experiment more creatively and flexibly with high-quality forms and models. In addition, purchasers of home and household textiles have the possibility to respond more quickly and more individually to today’s consumer requirements.” - Heimtextil Director Ulrike Wechsung.

Heimtextil 2015 Comments

Hemispheres Magazine Jan 2015

Bob Bland, a former Tommy Hilfiger and Ralph Lauren designer, has just launched Manufacture New York, a 160,000-square-foot complex in the Sunset Park neighborhood of Brooklyn

• Self-customization promises to be a big part of what Manufacture New York provides

Current News

 “You can be online anywhere in the world, design a piece, order and have this automated process produce a garment in half an hour,” Bland says

“Customers can scan themselves on a device like a Kinect [the Xbox motion sensor]. Then we take the measurements.”

BusinessWeek – Jan 2015

• Perfecting The Science of the Shirt

• Burberry• L.L. Bean• Eddie Bauer• H&M, • Zara

More designs, shorter runs, faster delivery

Current News

• Textile World Magazine – Jan-Feb 2015

• Vapor Apparel To Open Cut-And-Sew Facility• North Charleston, S.C. based Vapor Apparel has announced it will

open a 300,000-square-foot cut-and-sew facility in Union, S.C. The company manufactures performance apparel and offers sublimation print-on-demand services

Current News

• Printing is a huge industry that is dominated by analog processes• Digital printing is growing at high rates • Cost-To-Print And Profitability Gaps are closing

• World production of printed textiles amounted to around

31 billion square meters in 2014, Provost said, and of this production, around 65% were rotary screen printed fabrics and 25% flat screen. With a variety of other different processes carried

out, digital printing had just an estimated 2% share of the

overall market, amounting to around 600 million square meters

Industrial Printing Transformation

11

• What drives digital printing?• Variable Data• Sampling • Short runs – short lead times• Customization

• What limits digital penetration?• Expertise

• Digital Work Flows, Color management, spot vs. process color• Equipment availability for production printing speeds• Cost to print versus analog

All printing should be Digital!

12

Guttenberg Press ~1439 AD

• Inkjet technology has advanced, but• 4-6 year cycles for Piezo Inkjet

• (Moore’s law for information technology is doubling every 1.5 years)

• Software, color management and digital workflows are now understood and working

• Training and knowledge improvements

• Production level printers have arrived…

Inkjet Technology Progression

13

Digital Publishing Presses

14

Océ JetStream®

Hewlett Packard

Ricoh Infoprint 5000 FujiFilm Jet Press

Offset Replacement

Digital Packaging Presses

15

EFI Jetrion Domino

DurstKonica KM1

Flexographic Replacement

High Speed Digital Textile Printers

16

ITMA Fall 2012

Screen-print Replacement

TEXTILE INKJET INK TECHNOLOGY

Ink and Fabric

• It has been a challenge to get formulations to jet well with good characteristics on the substrates

• Inkjet ink formulations now meet the challenges:• Jetting reliability• Color Consistency• End Use Characteristics

• Formulations have been optimized• Inkjet ink costs are high compared to screen

• High Purity requirements• Shelf Life• Coverage

Ink Technology

19

Cyan

Light Cyan

Magenta

Light Magenta

Black

Gray

Yellow

Orange

Blue

Red

End Use Properties

• Wash Fastness• Acid

Perspiration• Alkali• Light Fastness• Dry Crock• Wet Crock• Chlorine

Traditional vs. Digital Textile Printing

Acid Dye10% Reactive

Dye28%

Pigment2%

DS Trans-fer

52%

DS Direct8%

Digital Textile PrintingAcid Dye

3% Reactive Dye26%

Pigment51%

DS Trans-fer5%

DS Direct15%

Traditional Textile Printing

Digital Textile Ink Manufacturers

Imaging Colorants

TEXTILE PRINTING COSTSAnalog – Digital Crossover

23

• Cost Of Printing (COP) is limiting expansion of digital printing into conventional analog printing markets

• Cost Of Printing• Printer, Labor, Media, Ink, Facility, Energy, etc.

• Ink is most of the COP• Colorant is a small proportion of inkjet ink

• i.e., textile pigment ink has 4%-7% colorant• Inkjet Ink is manufactured in large batches

• Shelf life 6-24 months• Inventory and shipping costs are high

Present Situation

24

Typical Production Cost Curve

25

50 250

450

650

850

1050

1250

1450

1650

1850

2050

2250

2450

2650

2850

3050

3250

3450

3650

3850

4050

4250

4450

4650

4850

$0.00

$1.00

$2.00

$3.00

$4.00

$5.00

$6.00

$7.00

Analog vs. Digital

Screen 2012 Digital 2012

Square Meters

$/s

qm

Digital vs. Rotary Screen ComparisonSPG Prints Published Data

26

Digital Consumption100 gr/m2

Digital Consumption150 gr/m2

Run Length Cost Crossover

27

50 500

950

1400

1850

2300

2750

3200

3650

4100

4550

5000

$0.00

$1.00

$2.00

$3.00

$4.00

$5.00

$6.00

$7.00

Screen vs. Digital 2002

Screen 2002

Digital 2002

Square Meters

$/sq

m

50 500

950

1400

1850

2300

2750

3200

3650

4100

4550

5000

$0.00

$1.00

$2.00

$3.00

$4.00

$5.00

$6.00

$7.00

Screen vs. Digital 2012

Screen 2012

Digital 2012

Square Meters

$/sq

m

50 500

950

1400

1850

2300

2750

3200

3650

4100

4550

5000

$0.00

$1.00

$2.00

$3.00

$4.00

$5.00

$6.00

$7.00

Screen vs. Digital

Screen 2012

Digital 2012

DISC

Square Meters

$/sq

m

Digital Ink $ DownScreen Ink $ UpScreens $ Down

DIGITAL TEXTILE PRINTING OPPORTUNITY

28

Potential

29

Printed Textile Market sqm/yr 25,000,000,000 30,000,000,000 Each 0.1% market penetration 0.10% 25,000,000 30,000,000

liters 437,500 525,000

Each 0.1% Penetration = 500,000 liters digital inkCost/

L $ 30

$ 40

$ 50

$ 60

$ 70

$ 80

0.5% $ 65,625,000 $ 87,500,000 $ 109,375,000 $ 131,250,000 $ 153,125,000 $ 175,000,000 1.0% $ 131,250,000 $ 175,000,000 $ 218,750,000 $ 262,500,000 $ 306,250,000 $ 350,000,000 1.5% $ 196,875,000 $ 262,500,000 $ 328,125,000 $ 393,750,000 $ 459,375,000 $ 525,000,000 2.0% $ 262,500,000 $ 350,000,000 $ 437,500,000 $ 525,000,000 $ 612,500,000 $ 700,000,000 2.5% $ 328,125,000 $ 437,500,000 $ 546,875,000 $ 656,250,000 $ 765,625,000 $ 875,000,000 3.0% $ 393,750,000 $ 525,000,000 $ 656,250,000 $ 787,500,000 $ 918,750,000 $ 1,050,000,000

3.5% $ 459,375,000 $ 612,500,000 $ 765,625,000 $ 918,750,000 $ 1,071,875,000 $ 1,225,000,000

4.0% $ 525,000,000 $ 700,000,000 $ 875,000,000 $ 1,050,000,000 $ 1,225,000,000 $ 1,400,000,000

4.5% $ 590,625,000 $ 787,500,000 $ 984,375,000 $ 1,181,250,000 $ 1,378,125,000 $ 1,575,000,000

5.0% $ 656,250,000 $ 875,000,000 $ 1,093,750,000 $ 1,312,500,000 $ 1,531,250,000 $ 1,750,000,000

5.5% $ 721,875,000 $ 962,500,000 $ 1,203,125,000 $ 1,443,750,000 $ 1,684,375,000 $ 1,925,000,000 6.0% $ 787,500,000 $ 1,050,000,000 $ 1,312,500,000 $ 1,575,000,000 $ 1,837,500,000 $ 2,100,000,000 6.5% $ 853,125,000 $ 1,137,500,000 $ 1,421,875,000 $ 1,706,250,000 $ 1,990,625,000 $ 2,275,000,000 7.0% $ 918,750,000 $ 1,225,000,000 $ 1,531,250,000 $ 1,837,500,000 $ 2,143,750,000 $ 2,450,000,000

6% Penetration > $1B Ink

"Textile Printing Production to Reach 32 Billion Square Meters by 2015” (ITS, PIRA, Infotrends)

30

Run Length Analysis

100

60011

0016

0021

0026

0031

0036

0041

0046

0051

0056

0061

0066

0071

0076

000

20

40

60

80

100 Digital

Linear Meters

100

600

1100

1600

2100

2600

3100

3600

4100

4600

5100

5600

6100

6600

7100

7600

020406080

100

Screen

Linear Meters

100

70013

0019

0025

0031

0037

0043

0049

0055

0061

0067

0073

0079

000

20406080

100120

Normalized Run Lengths Comparison

ScreenDigital

Linear Meters

100

90017

0025

0033

0041

0049

0057

0065

0073

000

20406080

100120

Normalized Run Length Comparison

ScreenDISC

Linear Meters

Axis Title

3200k Liters

25000k Liters

The market wants to print here…but can’t at present

Exponential Growth

Relative Ink Volumes

Digital = 3.5M LScreen = 280M L

31

Profitably Gap

32

Screen

The gap between the low volumes of digital and the high volumes of rotary screen printing shows the

economic potential

Digital Opportunity

INKJET PRINTHEAD TECHNOLOGY

RC1536Performance SPT RC1536

RC1536Print width 108.3mm

number of nozzles 1536

Resolution 360

Grayscale 8 levels

Drop Volume 17-100pl

Dot Frequency 10.4kHz (7drop)

Productivity/nozzle [kHz*pl] 1040

Productivity/head [ml/min] 95.8

number of heads/Bar*1 7

Max Discharge/Bar*2

[g/2@25m/min]48.8

(360dpi*634dpi)

*1: 1Bar=700mm

*2: Specific gravity=1.38

Circulation +

Isolated Channel Technology

Konica Minolta's next-generation flagship model, “KM1800i,” is a newly-developed high-performance multi-nozzle inkjet printhead furnished with 1776 nozzles and capable of a print width of 75 mm. The product features include an independent drive method that enables simultaneous jetting from all nozzles, 1776 nozzles with a high density of 600 npi and is ideal for commercial printing applications that require high-speed printing with the high image quality realized by the single-pass method. Major Features

Multi-nozzle structure with 1776 nozzles and a 600 npi high-density printhead

All-nozzle independent drive system, maximum drive frequency: 84 kHz

Stable discharge performance that realizes high image quality during high-speed printing

Grey scale performance with a maximum of 8 gradations

3.5 pl small droplets, UV-ink compatible

Next-generation Inkjet Printhead “KM1800i”

G51280 nozzles

• MEMS Drop Ejector• Drop-on-demand• Silicon MEMS construction with sputtered PZT film actuator • High print speeds: >100 kHz jetting frequencies• Native drop volumes (1…5 pL)• Multi-pulse capable for larger drop volumes (up to 6x )• VersaDrop Gray Scale• Excellent jet straightness

• Ink Compatibility• Wide ink latitude (material, temperature, viscosity range)• Continuous ink recirculation• Robust non-wetting coating• Aqueous (dye and pigment), UV, aqueous-UV, latex, and solvent-based inks

• Scalable Architecture• High resolution: 1200 nozzles per inch• Unique matrix nozzle pattern for ease of stitching• Small footprint and modular design• Field replaceable

SAMBA™ Inkjet Printhead Technology

MultiDrop – Gray Scale Technology

39

• MultiDrop Technology• Gray Scale

Nozzle Plate Materials Nickel Stainless Steel Polyimide Silicon

Nozzle Holes Etching Laser Drilling Punching Electroform MEMs

Nozzle Plate Coatings Wetting – no coating Non-Wetting Coating

Nozzle Plate Technology

Key benefits: Improves initial priming Enables fast jet recovery Prevents settling of heavily pigmented inks Improves open time of fast drying inks Uniform Temperature Control

Continuous Circulation

41

Continuous Ink Flow

MORE PRINTERS

Durst Kappa 320 at Heimtextil

Mutoh 1638WXMutoh RJ-900X

MS LaRIO

Reggiani ReNOIR

Standard Mid-Range High Speed Extreme Speed

Mimaki JV-33 Mimaki TX-500 MS JP-6

Printing Equipment

ArioJet

• Direct To Garment• Production Digital

Printing• Replaces a screen-print

station

Paradigm Production Digital DTG

• Direct To Garment• Production Digital

Printing• Replaces a screen-print

station

• Now, with the introduction of single pass machines, digital printing is capable of operating at speeds faster than rotary printers.

• MS in Italy has already introduced the LaRio single pass machine

• Kyocera Printheads

Single Pass Digital Printers

35 - 75 liners meters per minute63 sqm per minute3500 sqm per hour

Rotary Screen Speeds

• SPG Prints announced Pike, a new single pass digital textile print• 75 meters per minute

• Samba printheads on the system are configured in a single-pass array called Archer

• throw distance• nozzle redundancy

• Targeted at rotary screen printers printing between 3 million and up to 10 million  meters annually.

• Ink Consumption: 65k liters to 210k liters

Digital Textile Printing Success (US)

49

Opportunities from Growth Barriers

• Printers (of course)

• Auxiliary Equipment• Dryers• Calendars• Steamers • Washers• Environment Controls

• Capital Equipment Financing• Color Management• Workflow Optimization• Web To Print• Technician Training• Operator Training• Ink Production and Supply Chain

$

Grow Industrial Digital Printing

51

TextileGraphics

Packaging

Product Decoration

Tiles Additive Manufacturing

Digital Textile• Production Solutions

are INKJET• Highest Ink Volume

• All aqueous• Green Technology

Accelerating

Digital G

rowth

Dry tonerLiquid TonerOffset LithographyFlexographicHybridGravureScreenprint

• Laser• Inkjet

• Inkjet

• Laser• Inkjet

• Inkjet

Thank You

The Technology Partnership ‘TTP’Melbourn, Herts. SG8 6EE. UK

Mike RaymondTechnical Sales – Business Developmentttpmeteor, Philadelphia Office, USA

Mike.Raymond@ttpmeteor.com

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FxuXP0BRBxM