U.S. and Canadian national parks today face modernpressures inside and outside their borders—pollution,budget cuts, development, soaring visitation, ecologicaldecline. TRAVELER’s expert panelists grade the condition of park destinations, including the gateway towns youvisit on the way in and out. Some parks do better thanothers. One country does better than the other.

By Jonathan B. Tourtellot

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Fragile desert surfacesnear Utah’s Arches andCanyonlands NationalParks take a poundingfrom high-intensity activities such as thisfour-wheeler contest.The area missed get-ting a high score due tooff-road abuses in thedesert and off-puttingdevelopment in Moab,the gateway town.Heating up in a cool climate (left), a visitorsoaks in a hot spring intop-scoring GwaiiHaanas National Park,British Columbia.

ScorecardPark Regions Rate? Read On.

F YOU VISIT A NATIONAL PARK, you’ll often spend plenty of time just outside the park,too—eating, sleeping, parking, shopping, sightseeing—in the town or region that geogra-phers call the gateway. A park and its gateway are really a single destination, with simi-lar history, scenery, and climate. The way park and gateway interact can make all the difference in the quality of your trip and in the sustainability of the destination. • Usingthe same Stewardship Index pioneered in last year’s global Destination Scorecard (March2004), TRAVELER and National Geographic’s Center for Sustainable Destinations surveyedsome 300 experts in sustainable tourism, destination quality, and park management. We

asked them to evaluate 55 North American park destinations, chosen in part for the importanceof their gateways (see survey details page 86). • The scores that follow, listed by rank andbased on a 1-to-100 scale, reflect the experts’ opinions. No destination rated 90 or above (“un-spoiled and likely to remain so”), but one came close. Top-scoring destinations face relatively fewthreats or, significantly, are learning to handle them. While no place fell into the “catastrophic”under-20 range, troubles go deep for the bot-tom scorers, with wounds that may verge onpermanent. Even so, every destination, evenlast-place Everglades/Big Cypress, still retainsmuch of what made it park-worthy. • Wehope this index will spark discussion and de-bate. Each park destination below includessample panelist comments that reflect theopinions behind the score. To ensure integrity,panelists commented anonymously. For morecomments and a list of panelists, see www.nationalgeographic.com/traveler.

The List

IPark scores on the Stewardship Index range from a near-pristine 88 in British Columbia to a near-death 34 in Florida.

(1) Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserveand Haida Heritage SiteBRITISH COLUMBIA, CANADA (Score: 88)Gwaii Haanas might seem to rate its excel-lent 88 due simply to light traffic: Fewerthan 3,000 visitors a year make it to thepark in the soggy, remote Queen CharlotteIslands. But there’s more: a unique partner-ship between Parks Canada and the nativeHaida people. “High cultural integrity,” saysone panelist. “Haida are very involved inpark management. Residents display a realstewardship ethic.” Authenticity, too:“Archaeological and historic artifacts areleft to their natural processes as per Haidatradition, which surprises visitors who expect ‘preservation.’” “Beautiful and in-tact. A great model for other regions.”

(2) Apostle Islands National LakeshoreWISCONSIN (Score: 78) Light tourism traf-fic and long Lake Superior winters helpkeep the Apostles healthy. “In good shapeecologically. Not over visited.” “No man-made lights visible. Bayfield is a most delightful gateway community, providingauthentic Great Lakes atmosphere.”

Cape Breton Highlands National ParkNOVA SCOTIA, CANADA (Score: 78) CapeBreton Island retains its charm despite

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changing demographics. “Spectacular coast-line, villages seem authentic, and the area isfairly unspoiled.” “Tourism is built on theCeltic and French heritage of the island.”“The park’s Audubon-certified golf courseis a model for collaborative action betweenconservation and recreation.”

Gros Morne National ParkNEWFOUNDLAND, CANADA (Score: 78) The geological, scenic landscape of Gros Mornereceives praise, despite grazing problemswith nonnative moose. “I’ve never felt morewelcome anywhere in North America.”“A model of the collaborative actions of local communities and park management.”

(3) Great Basin National ParkNEVADA (Score: 77) Wheeler Peak rises fromthe remote east Nevada desert here, a regionuncrowded, unspoiled, and able to mitigatesuch threats as grazing and advancing ››D

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A backcountry visitorsurveys highly rankedYoho National Park,British Columbia.“Great for hiking andwildlife viewing,”says a panelist whoused to work there.Still, he adds, Yohoand Kootenay needbuffer zones to protect wildlife.

On TopThese 16 parks are virtually pristine andusually on good terms with local people.

“The Apostlesare one of my favorite placeson Earth, inthe summer.You can stillhave an islandalmost toyourself forshort periodsof time.”

—Ronald Hiebert, Ph.D., plant ecologist, Northern

Arizona University

A kayaker plies Superiorwaters in northern Wisconsin’s Apostle Islands National Lake-shore, tied for secondplace at a score of 78.Points out one reviewer,“The Apostle Islands arelimited to small water-craft travel, keepingthem pristine.”

Human and natural aesthetics ally wherethe Prince of Wales Hotel overlooks Water-ton Lakes NationalPark, Alberta. “An incredibly beautifulpark”—words echoedby other panelists—“with relatively goodtourism infrastructurein keeping with thepark surroundings.”

“The grandhotel standsover Watertonlike the princeof the forest,and I think itadds to thedramaticscenery.”

—Brenda Barrett, Heritage Area Coordinator, U.S. National Park Service

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development. “Tourism is sustainable.”“Camping at 10,000 feet is fantastic; thebristlecone pine forests are worth the hike.”

Kootenay/Yoho National ParksBRITISH COLUMBIA, CANADA (Score: 77) OnB.C.’s side of the Rockies, “developmentand transportation corridor problems arenot as intense” as in neighboring Banff (55).The mountains dominate Yoho, the forestsKootenay. As for gateways, “Invermere orGolden support a pleasant stay in the area.”

Wrangell-St. Elias National Park & PreserveALASKA (Score: 77) “One of the magnificentmountain wilderness parks in the world!”“The Kennicott mine and town are an amaz-ing national historic treasure and deservepreservation.” Other panelists agree, butraise new issues: Bus tours from cruiseboats overlook native Ahtna peoples, and“recreational ATV riding is permitted on 13trails; it’s a mud-boggin’ mess.”

(4) Hawaii Volcanoes National ParkHAWAII (Score: 75) The Big Island boasts thesurvey’s highest-scoring subtropical park.“Given its location on an island wheretourism reigns supreme, the park’s un-spoiled quality is remarkable.” Invasivespecies and coastal development threats arethe only concerns. “Gateway area is fine.”

(5) Chaco Culture National Historical ParkNEW MEXICO (Score: 72) The long, unpavedaccess road pleased panelists by keeping thisarchaeologically rich site untrampled. “Itsremote location means Chaco Canyon remains a relatively genuine experience.It is still possible to envision the Anasazi life and find quiet moments of solitude.”Caveat: “Nearby town is incredibly littered.”

Crater Lake National ParkOREGON (Score: 72) “A hidden gem. Sur-rounding region appropriately developed.”In summer, crowds do swamp the lodge siteon the old volcano’s rim, but otherwise,

››DestinationScorecard

››Why Canada?F THESE 55 PARKS, only ten areCanadian, but eight of them scoreabove average. Sixty percent make itinto the top quarter of the scoringrange, versus a paltry 22 percent for

the U.S. What’s going on?Obviously it helps to be northern. Parks

with short seasons suffer less tourist tram-pling. All four surveyed Alaska parks didwell, too. But there’s more to it. By law,Parks Canada must first protect the environ-ment, whereas Congress demands the U.S.National Park Service protect nature whilealso promoting outdoor recreation, dualmandates that can conflict when too manypark-lovers show up.

Last, says one U.S. panelist, “Canadians ingeneral take their government’s role in pre-serving parks more seriously.” In short, they’llspend some money. “U.S. parks are nowforced to be more self-sufficient,” agrees aU.S. recreation ecologist, “whereas Canadahas maintained better funding.” Apparently,you get what you pay for. —J.B.T.

“Vast, wide-open vistas” invite an adventurer into Jasper National Park, Alberta, describedas “ecologically sound” and “greatest” of the Canadian Rocky Mountain parks.

“Oregonians have pride in the stern stand toprotect and preserve the lodge and preventdevelopment on the rim.”

Point Reyes National SeashoreCALIFORNIA (Score: 72) “An hour’s drivefrom San Francisco takes you back in time to farming, fishing, and lighthouse life.”This accessible park draws praise despite weekendcrowds: “high biodiversity,” “splendid ex-hibits,” “beautiful natural vistas,” and tasteful,restrained gateway towns “except recent development east of Tomales Bay.”

Waterton Lakes National ParkALBERTA, CANADA (Score: 72) BorderingMontana’s Glacier National Park,Watertonrates high for nature and management. “Anice mix of front-country and backcountryopportunities.Visitor services are in harmonywith the character of the park.” Nearby lands,though, are threatened by subdivisions, log-ging, mining, and drilling.

A cruise ship bulks over Skagway, Alaska. In such Inside Passage ports, megaships heading forGlacier Bay National Park boost the economy, but not sense of place. The park now limits them.

(6) Denali National Park & PreserveALASKA (Score: 71)You take a shuttle bus toenter this huge, “awesome expanse of unbri-dled nature” centered on Mount McKinley(Denali), highest peak on the continent.“Denali does it right: forces people out oftheir cars to see the park and view wildlife inits natural setting.” Panelists praise the naturalattractions, not the human ones.The visitorcenter “resembles Grand Central Station.”Gateway towns are “sprawling, unplanned,unattractive, and unsafe.”

Glacier Bay National Park & PreserveALASKA (Score: 71) This “unspoiled paradise”has now limited cruise ships. Park land “isecologically intact since most use is water-based.” But “the native Tlingit story of 9,000years of adaptation is not being told.”

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(8) Big Bend National ParkTEXAS (Score: 69) Far from almost every-where, Big Bend suffers from both U.S. andMexican air pollution as well as sharply lower levels in the Rio Grande. Otherwise,a winner: “Not overused by hordes of visi-tors.The most natural park I’ve visited.”“Authentic, unspoiled.” “The gateways ofTerlingua and Lajitas tend toward a Westernmovie set, but not excessively.”

Olympic National ParkWASHINGTON (Score: 69) Soggy but wonder-ful, a “beautiful park with a less than beautifulgateway.” Panelists like the park but disagreeabout nearby logging. “Gateway towns arelaid-back; Forks once claimed to be the‘Logging Capital of the World.’”

Theodore Roosevelt National ParkNORTH DAKOTA (Score: 69) “If you like bigskies, prairie, wildlife, and a feel for the Old

(11) Antietam National BattlefieldMARYLAND (Score: 66) “An overlooked trea-sure!”The park gets high marks for histori-cal interpretation, management, and sense of place. Its main problem? “Surburban en-croachment is engulfing it.” Gateways seemto be fighting back, though. “Sharpsburg,Boonsboro, and Shepherdstown are specialin their preservation efforts.”

Glacier National ParkMONTANA (Score: 66) Glacier draws praisefor scenery, ecological integrity, and its his-toric open-top red buses. Needed restora-tion has begun for the Depression-era lodgebuildings and the oft-crowded, crumblingGoing-to-the-Sun Road.Typically, panelistsfret about global warming:“What will Glacierbe called when there are no longer any glaci-ers?” Also, “the area around the park needssprucing up.”

Still Doing OKThese 23 parks cope with a few chal-lenges, some of them in gateway areas.

VALUATING an entire destination—both park and gateway—requiresweighing such subtle issues as aes-thetics and cultural integrity, as wellas balancing good points against bad.

Since simple numerical measures cannot dojustice to the task, we turned to informedhuman judgment: a panel of some 300 well-traveled experts in a variety of fields—ecolo-gy, sustainable tourism, geography, parkmanagement and planning, travel writingand photography, historic preservation,indigenous cultures, archaeology.

We asked panelists to evaluate just theplaces with which they were familiar, usingsix criteria weighted according to impor-tance: environmental and ecological quality;social and cultural integrity; condition of anyhistoric buildings and archaeological sites;aesthetic appeal; quality of tourism manage-ment; and the outlook for the future.

Experts first aired all points of view by filing comments about each park and gate-way (anonymously, to ensure objectivity). Ina version of a research tool called the Delphitechnique, panelists then reviewed the com-ments and filed their stewardship scores. Fora list of panelists and more observations, seewww.nationalgeographic.com/traveler.

The resulting Stewardship Index score,then, is an average of informed judgmentsabout each place as a whole, taking intoaccount its many faces. Like the cards thatOlympic judges hold up, our experts’ scoresincorporate both measurable accomplish-ment and the intangibles of style, aesthetics,and culture. And like an athlete, each desti-nation has a chance to improve.

To help, TRAVELER, the Center for Sustain-able Destinations, and the Conservation Fundhave assembled an online “Community Tool-kit” of resources. If you live in a gatewaytown or visit one often, check it out at www.nationalgeographic.com/travel/sustainable.

Simon Williams, Cassandra Cartwright, andmany others helped with this study.

››About the Survey

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Ugly signage hovers over sprawling motel strips in regional gateways like St. George, Utah,in the Zion area. The park’s happier fit with adjacent Springdale keeps its score a high “OK.”

Jasper National ParkALBERTA, CANADA (Score: 71) “Wide-openvistas, with sweeping landscapes” characterizethe biggest of the Canadian Rockies parks—“a gorgeous treasure.” “The town is authen-tic, tourist-tack at a minimum.” Panelists differ on the park’s ecological health. Severalcriticize Alberta’s forestry, drilling, andmining activities next door.

(7) Kenai Fjords National ParkALASKA (Score: 70) Visit by water: “an in-credible place to see marine wildlife andseabirds.” The gateway town, Seward, “hasembraced the park.” But: “Cruise trafficneeds to be checked.”

West, this site is worth the drive.” Medora,the gateway town, is not conducive to a“contemplative visit,” but “its Pitchfork Fon-due and Medora Musical is an experience.”

(9) Fundy National ParkNEW BRUNSWICK, CANADA (Score: 68) This“beautiful little park” on the tide-famous Bayof Fundy earns praise for aesthetics, fewcrowds, and “a strong program of ecologicalrestoration to bring back American martensand peregrine falcons” despite disruptivelogging on the border.

Redwood National and State ParksCALIFORNIA (Score: 68) “Sleepy, foggy fishingvillages, bays, and coves; remote, unspoiled,charming, and attractive.” “The magnifi-cence of the redwoods is unparalleled, butlogging and now tourism have created a degraded mosaic of landscapes.”

Zion National ParkUTAH (Score: 68) “The lodge is beautiful andthe canyon spectacular.” Most panelists con-curred but split on Zion’s gateway region,precluding a top score.The park’s relation-ship with the adjacent town of Springdalereceived much praise—“outstanding exam-ple of a gateway that tries to be part of thepark experience”—as did the free propaneshuttle buses into the park. But a minoritydisagreed. One called Springdale “horrible.”Combine that with the bus ride and the experience can “feel more like Disneylandthan a national park.”

(10) Death Valley National ParkCALIFORNIA (Score: 67) “One of the mostdramatic places in America.” Reviewersdeemed the ecology sound but at risk fromsoaring Las Vegas--based visitation, off-roadvehicles, and bright lighting near the park.“Preserving the night sky should be a priori-ty. Looking at the stars on a clear desertnight is worth the trek to Death Valley.”

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“One of thegreatest jewelsof the PacificNorthwest . . .threatened bythe largeamount oflogging thatoccurs onnearby lands.”

—Ronald Nickerson, Ph.D.recreation faculty,

Minnesota State University

Driftwood provides afront-row seat for sun-set at Rialto Beach inOlympic National Park,Washington. Partcoast, part mountainrain forest, the park itself gets good marks,but its surroundingsearn mixed reviews.

How many is too many? At Delicate Arch, in ArchesNational Park, Utah, sheernumbers of admirers canspoil the desert experi-ence. It’s a growing issuefor park managers: openaccess versus crowding.

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(12) Black Canyon of the Gunnison National ParkCOLORADO (Score: 65) Vistas let you “seesimultaneously the snowcapped Coloradopeaks and hot deserts below” in this un-crowded, out-of-the-way park. “Land, air,and water unspoiled.” Well, maybe notwater for long: Panelists sharply criticizefederal plans to cede Gunnison River wa-ter rights for development use, damagingcanyon ecology.

Bryce Canyon National ParkUTAH (Score: 65) Great hiking and geologyin the park—“still a magical fairyland”—but several reviewers dislike tacky gate-way towns: “junky, overstressed, and un-appealing for many miles.” Others cite apark/locals disconnect, with tourism jobsfew and jobholders “not very concernedabout park environment.”

North Cascades National ParkWASHINGTON (Score: 65) This lightly visitedpark “needs a better trail network.” Sceneryand wildlife look fine, but “the quality ofsome gateway settlements was disturbing.I have memories of concrete.”

Pacific Rim National Park ReserveBRITISH COLUMBIA, CANADA (Score: 65) A“stunning, wild, and beautiful” but frag-mented park scattered along the edge ofVancouver Island, Pacific Rim seeks culturalintegrity in part by employing staff from local native communities. Challenges in-clude rising visitation and new development,plus clear-cut logging areas nearby.

(14) Joshua Tree National ParkCALIFORNIA (Score: 63) “I found peace atJoshua Tree.” “Truly undiscovered back-country.”The park’s popularity with rockclimbers draws mixed reviews, and pan-elists criticize smog from L.A., growingweekend crowds, and new houses andplans for a huge landfill next door.

Mesa Verde National ParkCOLORADO (Score: 63) Panelists disagreeon Mesa Verde’s condition, from “well-managed” and “marvelous interpretivewalks” to “serious wildfire problems anddamage; archaeological heritage in dan-ger; reduced aesthetic appeal.” The gate-way, Cortez, “has a true Western feel.”

Mount Rainier National ParkWASHINGTON (Score: 63) This “attractive,well-preserved and stewarded area” has sup-port from local communities. Reviewerpraise for the rugged park’s good ecologicalquality mixed with bitter remarks abouttraffic jams in both summer and winter.

Tallgrass Prairie National ParkKANSAS (Score: 63) “The interpretation ofwhat the tallgrass prairie once was will stag-ger the imagination—a great stop for cross-country drivers.”Too small to portray thevastness it represents, the park drew panelistcalls for “more of everything.”

(15) Arches & Canyonlands National ParksUTAH (Score: 62) These “well-managed”desert parks are “among the most beautiful

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(13) Acadia National ParkMAINE (Score: 64) Coastal beauty and help-ful local groups vie with summer crowdingand tacky commerce in the otherwise attrac-tive gateway of Bar Harbor. Adds a local pan-elist: “The increase in PFAs (People FromAway) is eroding social integrity”—lobster-men can’t afford to live on the coast.

Petrified Forest National ParkARIZONA (Score: 64) In an exemplary effort,locals and the Park Service cooperated tomore than double the size of this fairlyhealthy park.The biggest problem, despiteHerculean efforts by park staff, “continuesto be theft of petrified wood.”

Solitude reigns on Cumberland Island NationalSeashore, Georgia. Limited access preventscrowding but alienates gateway families.

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destinations in the world and the most chal-lenged,” with Arches the more crowded byfar.The gateway to both parks, Moab, “hasgone through a tremendous metamorphosis”from mining town to recreation center,complete with worrisome off-road sports.

Cumberland Island National SeashoreGEORGIA (Score: 62) On this barrier island,“the gloomy ruins of wealth and grandeurcouple with incredible beaches.” Debateswirls over whether to maintain the his-toric but decaying plantation houses. Theboat to the park leaves from St. Marys,“still an authentic little fishing town withshrimp boats.”

Sequoia & Kings Canyon National ParksCALIFORNIA (Score: 62) “Natural resourcesthat rival or surpassYosemite—magnificentforests, wild rivers, the High Sierra.” Care-taking inside the parks has improved. Gate-ways, however, get mixed reviews. Crowdsand severe smog hurt the score.

(16) Sleeping Bear Dunes NationalLakeshoreMICHIGAN (Score: 60) The majestic dunes onLake Michigan are “getting more crowdedevery summer.” “Environmental quality hasimproved, but there appears to be no end tothe demand for second homes, retirementcommunities, and vacation estates.” Still,local towns were thought to fit in well andto be supportive of the park.

but visitor crowds produce an urban feel-ing.” Corrective park plans bog down in local“political gridlock.” Though tourism is bigin the gateway region, the industry grows“without any connection to the park.”

(20) Banff National ParkALBERTA, CANADA (Score: 55) Canada’s oldest, most popular park still retains won-derful beauty and backcountry, but a park-piercing transportation corridor disruptsmammal migrations, facilitates crowding,and spurs gateway growth. Probably noCanadian park is more studied and debated:“Beautiful, ecologically resilient, and facingextreme challenges, which do seem to driveinnovative efforts towards sustainability.”

Facing TroubleMajor problems confront 13 parks;oftenit’s unsuitable gateway development.

ⓦ Acadia NP, MEⓦ Antietam National Battlefield, MDⓦ Apostle Islands National Lakeshore, WIⓦ Arches & Canyonlands NPs, UTⓦ Banff NP, ABⓦ Big Bend NP, TXⓦ Black Canyon of the Gunnison NP, COⓦ Bryce Canyon NP, UTⓦ Cape Breton Highlands NP, NSⓦ Cape Hatteras National Seashore, NCⓦ Carlsbad Caverns NP, NMⓦ Chaco Culture National Historical Park, NMⓦ Colonial National Historical Park, VA ⓦ Crater Lake NP, ORⓦ Cumberland Island Nat. Seashore, GAⓦ Death Valley NP, CAⓦ Denali NP & Preserve, AKⓦ Everglades NP/Big Cypress, FLⓦ Fundy NP, NBⓦ Gettysburg National Military Park, PA

ⓦ Glacier Bay NP & Preserve, AKⓦ Glacier NP, MTⓦ Grand Canyon NP, AZⓦ Great Basin NP, NVⓦ Great Smoky Mountains NP, NC, TNⓦ Gros Morne NP, NLⓦ Gwaii Haanas NP & Haida Heritage Site, BCⓦ Hawaii Volcanoes NP, HIⓦ Hot Springs NP, ARⓦ Jasper NP, ABⓦ Joshua Tree NP, CAⓦ Kenai Fjords NP, AKⓦ Kootenay/Yoho NPs, BCⓦ Mammoth Cave NP, KYⓦ Mesa Verde NP, COⓦ Mount Rainier NP, WAⓦ Mount Rushmore/Badlands NPs, SDⓦ North Cascades NP, WAⓦ Olympic NP, WAⓦ Pacific Rim NP Reserve, BC

ⓦ Petrified Forest NP, AZⓦ Point Pelee NP, ONⓦ Point Reyes National Seashore, CAⓦ Redwood National & State Parks, CAⓦ Rocky Mountain NP, COⓦ Sequoia & Kings Canyon NPs, CAⓦ Shenandoah NP, VAⓦ Sleeping Bear Dunes Nat. Lakeshore, MIⓦ Tallgrass Prairie NP, KSⓦ Theodore Roosevelt NP, NDⓦ Waterton Lakes NP, ABⓦ Wrangell-St. Elias NP & Preserve, AKⓦ Yellowstone/Grand Teton NPs, WYⓦ Yosemite NP, CAⓦ Zion NP, UT

KEYⓦ On Top ⓦ Facing Troubleⓦ Still OK ⓦ The Bottom

Rated Park Destinations

(17) Colonial National Historical Park(Yorktown/Jamestown)VIRGINIA (Score: 59) The two historic siteslinked by a parkway are deemed authenticand appealing, but not so the neighborhood.“The surrounding gateway areas are becom-ing overcommercialized in a way that doesnot enhance the region’s sense of place.Toomany chains are degrading the experience.”

(18) Mammoth Cave National ParkKENTUCKY (Score: 58) “Heavily used, well-managed” sums up sentiment on Mammoth,where guided tours thwart widespread visi-tor damage. “Gateway communities have re-tained their small-town appeal,” but local cul-ture suffers from “trinketization.” Chemicalsin polluted water erode the formations.

(19) Rocky Mountain National ParkCOLORADO (Score: 56). “Deep blue glaciallakes and majestic mountain views” in a “totally overstressed” park. “Traffic, condodevelopments, and noise around the sappy,touristy town of Estes Park lessen appeal.”

Yosemite National ParkCALIFORNIA (Score: 56) Backcountry areasget high marks, butYosemite Valley reels un-der enormous popularity: “still breathtaking,

Hot Springs National ParkARKANSAS (Score: 55) “This urban park pre-serves the tradition of ‘taking the waters.’Bathhouse Row is an architectural wonder”—which needs “millions more for renova-tion.”The town’s historic district is compati-ble, but not sprawl on the fringe.

(21) Mount Rushmore National Memorial/Badlands National ParkSOUTH DAKOTA (Score: 54) “Two differentexperiences. Badlands is relatively remoteand unspoiled; Rushmore is like a shoppingmall.” Rushmore can still stir the patrioticblood, but gateways are “cheesy and sprawl-ing” and relations with the Lakota Sioux,who claim part of Badlands, are “edgy.”

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Rock BottomDestructive external pressures and majorinternal difficulties afflict three parks.

(22) Carlsbad Caverns National ParkNEW MEXICO (Score: 53) Panelists split onCarlsbad’s tourist sections, from “good visi-tor control and education” to “significantformation damage” and “a case study in plac-ing visitor use above sustainability. Shameful.”Above ground, the park draws praise, thegateways criticism—“glitzy tourist attrac-tions unsuited to the landscape.”

Grand Canyon National ParkARIZONA (Score: 53) At this “geologicalwonder of the world,” South Rim throngsdominate the visitor experience. “Thechances of finding a peaceful South Rimsunset spot are equal to winning at a Vegascasino.” Many panelists also take points offfor incoming air pollution, noisy overflights,too many cars generally, the failure to bringin trolleys instead, and disrupted water lev-els in the Colorado River.The Tusayan gate-way is “filling up with fast-food and hotelchains with no sense of place.”

Point Pelee National ParkONTARIO, CANADA (Score: 53) “Heavily im-pacted by the feet of birders” and ecologicallyisolated between farmland and Lake Erie,

tiny, stressed Point Pelee’s birding fame hasmade bird habitats regionally popular, as inthe lauded gateway town of Leamington.

(23) Gettysburg National Military ParkPENNSYLVANIA (Score: 51) The consensus onnotoriously tacky Gettysburg? It’s gettingbetter. “Taking down the observation towerand curtailing the most obnoxious elementsin the encroaching phalanx of fast-food establishments represents a victory.” Parkmanagement is improving, and the historicdowntown thriving, but so is adjacent sprawland “a dense corridor of wax museums,T-shirt shops, and chain eateries.”

Yellowstone/Grand Teton National ParksIDAHO, MONTANA, WYOMING (Score: 51) “Yellowstone, our oldest national park, facessome of the most serious threats—waterquality, erosion, overuse, wildlife issues.Thelocal community is informed and support-ive” except perhaps for the controversialsnowmobile proponents,lambasted by many pan-elists, with a minority mild-ly dissenting. “Teton is inbetter shape than Yellow-stone, but both are overrun”except forYellowstone’s bigbackcountry.

(24) Cape Hatteras National SeashoreNORTH CAROLINA (Score: 50)The nation’s grandeststretch of barrier islandbeach is “obscenely over-developed” north of the Na-tional Seashore. “This placedoesn’t have the same fami-ly feel that it used to have.”At the south end, Ocracokestill draws praise.

Herds of two kinds meet in Yellowstone National Park, where a snowmobile controversy sendsa low rating even lower. A quieter mingling of species on the Fairmont Banff Springs golfcourse (below) belies Banff’s ongoing struggle to cope with four million visitors a year.

Minor among local off-road excesses, a swamp buggy providesa raised look at any Everglades wildlife it doesn’t scare off.

(25) Shenandoah National ParkVIRGINIA (Score: 48) Best of the beset by far,Shenandoah needs a buffer zone to protectits famous vistas from more residentialsprawl. Haze, invasive species, and plant dis-eases add to its troubles. Several panelistsagree on the secret to a visit: “Hoards drivealong Skyline Drive and see each other’sbumpers, but a back dirt road can take youto miles of hiking without a soul in sight.”Gateway town centers retain some charm.

(26) Great Smoky Mountains National ParkNORTH CAROLINA, TENNESSEE (Score: 40)Terrible traffic, vista-choking haze, invasivespecies, and crowded trails number amongthe problems facing the beloved GreatSmokies, a treasure house of biodiversity.Topping all negatives are the “horrible,”“appalling,” “distasteful” gateways of Gatlin-burg, Pigeon Forge, and Cherokee: “themeparks, outlets, and billboards.” Federal poli-cy hasn’t helped, either: “Kicking people off6,600 tracts of land to create the park has ledto huge cultural problems.”

(27) Everglades National Park/Big Cypress National PreserveFLORIDA (Score: 34) “Clearly a paradise injeopardy,” the Everglades is dying of thirstand other maladies. Upstream demand forwater by the sugar industry and growingcities has slowed a much-heralded restora-tion program to a crawl. Promised federalfunding has not been forthcoming.The national park is not over-visited, but off-road vehicles have scarred Big Cypress. “Aculture of big swamp buggies, high-speedwatercraft, and airboats does little to pre-serve the more fragile areas.” Birding is stillgood, if only a shadow of what it used to be.“Rapid development on all sides has createdan unpleasant, unattractive gateway to one ofthe planet’s unique places.”