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Depth of field
No camera, however sophisticated, will always see what the eye sees. Nothing illustrates this better than depth of field. In simple terms, depth of field means what's in focus in an image and what isn't. A more precise definition is that depth of field is the zone—extending both before and behind the point of focus —in which objects appear to be sharp.
The human eye scans the world dynamically. Whatever we're looking at, near or far, normally appears
Depth of field preview
When you look through the DSOOO's
viewfinder, the lens is set at its
widest aperture; if a smaller aperture
is selected, it will stop down at the
moment the picture is actually taken.
This means that what you see in the
viewfinder may have much less depth
of field than the final image.
Unlike Nikon's professional DSLRs, the
D3000 does not have a depth-of-field
preview button. This was essential on
35mm SLRs: pressing the button stops
the lens down to the selected aperture,
giving a sense of the depth of field in
in focus (assuming you have good eyesight, or appropriate glasses or contact lenses). This gives us a sense that everything is in focus, which photographs often fail to match. In landscape photography it is traditional to emulate this all-in-focus view of the world by maximizing depth of field. However, we can choose to take a different approach—creative intent or necessity may lead us to take photos with much narrower depth of field.
the final image. Unfortunately, it also
darkens the viewfinder image. With
digital SLRs there is an alternative,
whenever time allows, by taking a
test shot and checking images on
the monitor, perhaps zooming in
for a closer look. We could call it
depth-of-field review. This can give
a better sense of depth of field than
the preview button ever did, but it is
significantly slower. Still, many people
would argue that it's good to slow
down and take a little more time—
even just a few seconds—to think
about what you're doing.
114 NIKON D3000
Three main factors determine depth of field: the focal length of the lens, the aperture, and the distance to the subject. Because focal length and subject distance are often determined by other factors, aperture is key. The simple rule is small aperture = big depth of field, and vice versa.
Remember that aperture numbers are really fractions, so f/16 is a small aperture, while f/4 is large. The Nikon DSOOO's Information Display, when set to Graphic format, includes an illustration corresponding to the lens aperture (see page 33).
Long lenses (telephotos) produce less depth of field than wide-angles. To increase depth of field, then, you would naturally think of fitting a wide-angle lens. However, this changes other elements too, making the situation more complex. For example, suppose your main subject is a tree. To make sure that every branch and t̂ vig is sharp you need good depth of field, so you might fit a wide-angle lens. Then, however, you have to move in closer to keep
DEPTH OF FIELD The same setup, focused on the near edge of the toothed cogwheel, taken at f/2.8, f/8, and f/22, shows the effect on depth of field. Which version you prefer is, of course, subjective.
THE EXPANDED GUIDE 115
the tree the same size in the frame— and moving closer reduces depth of field, losing at least some of the benefits of the change of lens.
Moving closer will change your perspective and the apparent shape of the subject. And if you're shooting a broad landscape, rather than a single tree, you may already have decided on the viewpoint and angle you want, so changing the lens may not be an option anyway.
Apparent sharpness The definition of depth of field refers to objects appearing to'be sharp. In a small image, subjects may appear sharp but begin to look fuzzy when the image is enlarged. Depth of field is a relative value rather than an absolute. It's easy to forget this and become obsessed with using the smallest apertures and determining the hyperfocal distance. All this may be overkill unless you are planning
Hyperfocal distance
When you really need an image to
be sharp throughout, remember
that depth of field extends both in
front of and behind the point of
exact focus. If you focus at infinity,
there's nothing beyond that, so
you are in effect wasting half your
depth of field. In fact, depth of field
extends to a greater depth behind
the point of focus than in front of it.
To exploit this, you'll frequently see
advice to "focus one-third of the
way into the picture," although this
doesn't really help: what's one-third
of the way from here to infinity? This
is clumsy shorthand for focusing
at the hyperfocal distance.
The hyperfocal distance is the point
on which you need to focus in order to
ensure that depth of field extends to
infinity. It is not a fixed distance, but
varies with focal length and aperture.
There are tables and calculators you can
use to work it out, but there are also
rough and ready ways to establish
hyperfocal distance in the field. One
simple method goes like this: start by
focusing on infinity—in practice, the
most distant object in the scene. Play
back the image and locate the nearest
objects that appear sharp: they are at the
hyperfocal point. Refocus at this distance
for maximum depth of field. Remember
that if you change the aperture, the
hyperfocal distance also changes.
116 NIKON D3000
SCHATZALP, DAVOS, SWITZERLAND I wanted everything from the nearest foliage to the distant peaks to be sharp, and focusing at the hyperfocal distance helped make it so.
Note Nikon's documentation is not
entirely clear, but it looks as if the
DSOOO's Landscape mode uses the
hyperfocal principle, or something
like it, to keep both foreground
and background in focus as far as
possible. However, it clearly does
not always set the smallest possible
aperture; for full control over this,
use (A) Aperture priority mode.
THE EXPANDED GUIDE
to make big prints or submit your images for magazine reproduction. A quick full-screen review on the LCD monitor is often all that's needed, and certainly one or two presses on the ® button is sufficient to check sharpness and depth of field for images which will be printed small or viewed on screen.
For various reasons, images shot with the D3000, or any DX format camera, will have greater depth of field than comparable images shot on a 35mm or "full-frame" camera. This gain is only partly offset by the extra enlargement needed in printing.
117
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There is a point near the camera at which objects come into focus. The measurement from this point, all the way to the point where things begin to fall out of focus (sometimes infinitely far away) is known as a shot's depth of field.
Depth of field (d.o.f.) is determined by lens-type, the aperture setting that has been selected, and how far away the subject is. Some lens/aperture combinations result in a shallow d.o.f.—others deep. The d.o.f. of most advanced digital cameras can be manually controlled (the degree to which depends on the lens that is being used). Control over d.o.f. is a good reason to consider upgrading to something more advanced once you've gotten a handle on the basics (few pocket digi-cams offer more than incidental control over their d.o.f.).
The samples on this spread provide a simple demonstration of the effects of manually adjusting the d.o.f. while taking a series of shots.
Look at photos in galleries, magazines, advertisements and web sites. Notice how a shallow depth of field is often used to confine the focus to certain essentials. Look for samples of a deep d.o.f. as well. Take note of which effect seems to work best in support of what type of message and stylistic result.
These samples demon
strate how changing a
camera's depth of field
affects its view of a
scene.
In technical terms, the
"f-stop" number (dis
played to the right of
the images, opposite)
reveals how far open
the camera's aperture*
was manually set for
each shot The lower
the number, the wider
the aperture opening,
and
the shallower the
depth of field.
Conversely, reducing
the aperture opening
(represented by a
higher f-stop number)
increases the lens's
depth of field. This nar
rower aperture opening
also means that the
amount of light getting
to the camera's image-
sensor is reduced.
Therefore, when shoot
ing with a deep d.o.f.,
more light
or longer exposures
may be needed to
properly capture
the image.
*The adjustable
iris-like opening inside
the lens.
307
F2.8
The photos on this
page were each
taken using a digi
tal SLR fitted with
a 100mm macro
lens. Changes to
depth of field affect
different types of
lenses to varying
degrees, SEE LENSES,
PAGE 322.
Fll
F32
308 DEPTH OF FIELD
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Another depth of field demonstration: this one conducted outdoors.
Digital cameras make ideal photo
graphic learning tools since you can review your images
on the spot and make adjustments to your technique
accordingly.
The lens is focused on the grass in the •
foreground using a shallow depth of field.
As a result, the lighthouse in the back
ground is a barely distinguishable blur.
Here, the d.o.f. has been increased. More
of the grass in the foreground has been
brought into focus and the lighthouse is
now recognizable. This shot is a fairly good
representation of the way the human eye
would view the scene.
Here, the camera's primary focus is still on
the grass, and the lens' maximum d.o.f. can
almost, but not quite, bring the lighthouse
into focus. Note: If I had wanted a shot
where everything was in sharp focus, I
could have moved the camera back a few
feet so that the grass in the foreground was
not so near to the camera's lens.
The f-stop setting used for this image
is the same as it was for the above
example. The only difference is that
the primary focus is now on the light
house rather than the grass. Using a
camera with manual depth of field
control puts a great deal of artistic con
trol in the hands of the photographer.
•
309
F2.8
The photos on this
page were each taken
using a digital StR fit
ted with a
70-300mm
telephoto lens.
SEE LENSES, PAGE 322,
Fll
F36
F36