Notion Commotion

When stitching denim, it’s important touse the right thread and sewing-machineneedle for the fabric thickness. Jeansthread is cotton-covered polyester that’sextra thick and durable. Its gold colormimics the original thread found on mostjean topstitching. When threading themachine with the jeans thread, use regularall-purpose thread in the bobbin to blendwith the denim color. Another option fortopstitching is denim thread, a multi-colorblue mix that blends with most jeanfabrics.

Jeans needles are made specifically fordenim. They have an extra-sharp tip forpenetrating the thick fabric and an extra-large eye to accommodate thicker threads.Sizes range from 80/12 to 110/18depending on the denim weight.

On Your Mark

Try on the jeans with the shoes you’ll wearwith them most often. Have a friend placepins at the new lower hem edge. Turn upthe hem and double-check the length in amirror before removing the jeans.

Use a chalk marker and ruler to draw a lineacross each jean leg at the pin marks. Markthe upper layer of each leg and removethe pins.

Draw a line 11/4" belowthe first mark.Pin each jeanleg togetherthrough bothlayers and cutalong thelower mark(1).

Heat an iron to the cotton/steam setting.Press the cut edge of each leg under 1/2";fold and press under another 3/4".

Using the free-arm function on themachine, slide the folded hem edgeunderneath the needle and presser footwith the right side of the leg facing you.Set the machine for a 3.5 mm stitchlength. Topstitch around the hem 1/2"from the fold. Stitch slowly to avoidbreaking the thread or needle. Ifnecessary, turn the hand wheel manuallyto ease the stitching over the fabric bulk atthe leg seams.

Tip: A Jean-a-ma-jig can ease the difficulty ofstitching through thick layers at the seamsas it helps ease the presser foot onto theadded thickness and transition beyond it.Look for it at the notions counter.

Hemming JeansPage 1

Finding a great-fitting pair of jeans is no easy task, but that euphoria can be quicklydampened if the jeans puddle on the floor. With these hemming techniques and the righttools, you can recreate the look of the original hem and make the jeans any length you like.

14.101

Illustrations courtesy of Dritz

(1) Cutting off the excesson the mark

Hemming Jeans

Page 2

Single-layer Hems

Mark 3/4" below the finished hem line. Trim the excessas described above, and finish the cut edge withpinking shears, serging or zigzagging (see the SimpleHems Guideline 11.130 for more information on thesetechniques).

Fold the finished edge to the inside of the leg along thenew hemline marking and press. Topstitch 1/2" from thefold on the outside of each jeans leg.

Taking Shape

The methods described above work well for straight-legor boot-cut jeans, but what if the jeans legs are flared?

To hem a flared leg, finish the hem edge with seamtape. Cut off the excess pant leg 1/4" below the finishedhemline mark and press to the leg wrong side.

Place the seam tape around each cut hem edge rightside leaving just enough tape so the ends overlap. Pinin place through the hem allowance only.

Select a 3.5 mm stitch length and stitch the tape edgeto the pant leg overlapping the ends.

Fold the tape and hem allowance to the inside and usea steam iron to press and shape the hem flat.

From the right side, topstitch around each leg hem1/2"from the fold.

No-Sew Option

Using fusible web tape is a quick no-sew hemmingoption for any shape of jean leg.

Choose a 1/2"- to 3/4"-wide tape and follow the productdirections for the proper iron setting.

Cut off the jeans 1" below the new hemline marking asdescribed above. There's no need to finish the cut edgeas the fusible web will prevent any fraying, though youcan serge or zigzag if you prefer a finished edge.

Fold the cut edge ofeach jean leg 1" to theinside and press. Openup the fold enough toslide a strip of fusibleweb tape inside (3).

Fuse the hem in placeand allow to coolbefore moving.

Topstitch from theright side if desired.

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7/07

Keep That Edge!

If you like the look of the worn or frayed hem edge onyour jeans, shorten them by creating cuffs. Measureand mark the new hemline, then fold the excess jeanlength to the outside of the leg if the amount isn't toolarge to look right.

Stitch the cuff edgedirectly beside theoriginal hem, using azipper foot to getclose to the hem edge(2).

(3) Inserting fusible hem tape

(2) Stitching cuff