David Burke S09

davidburkemagazine

GET SCHOOLED ON FISH

CHANGING THE SUPPLY CHAIN FOR SEAFOOD

CANVASSING THE SEA FOR ART

THE CALL OF THE OCEAN!

2009

2 0 0 9

Nobu Matsuhisa usesGuayaquil Bittersweet.

Richard Sandovallikes Trinitario White.

David Burke choosesGrand Lait.

Jean-Georges Vongerichten prefers Dark Caraibe.

The one thing chefs agree on is the water.The finest cacao grows in the verdant latitudes between the Tropics of Cancer and Capricorn. It’s also where the finest water comes from, which is why so many chefs serve FIJI. With its refreshing taste and soft feel on the palate, it’s the ideal accompaniment to their exquisite cuisine. Choose well. Drink FIJI.

www.fijiwater.com© 2009 FIJI Water Company LLC. All rights reserved. FW1718

FW1718_DBurkeMag_Choco_F.indd 1 4/29/09 3:29:48 PM

2009 • davidburke 3

Running a business always presents new and interesting challenges, especially in the restaurant sector. I take sustainability very much to heart, and in the same way I have always looked for like-minded partners who pay attention to land-based agricultural traceability, I made sustainability the key common ingredient in all my dishes at my latest seafood venture, Fishtail by David Burke. In the following pages, you’ll learn about not just the design and the dishes, but also the concept I adopted that I hope will make an impression beyond the walls of the restaurant—that if we don’t start making changes in the name of the environment, future generations will suffer the consequences.

David Burke Townhouse will get a makeover this summer to celebrate the new name: a revised menu with a more organic and natural approach, a new presentation, and a few more signature décor touches. We welcome Chef John Tesar to Fishtail, which is currently open nightly for dinner service. And you can now enjoy prix fixe meals at many of our locations at the recession-busting price of $20.09: Sunday nights at David Burke Townhouse, Fromagerie, and Fishtail, as well as nightly at David Burke at Bloomingdale’s.

With cookbooks to write, a new line of pots and pans to debut, and an eye to new locations, I only hope I can find time to enjoy a little fishing of my own this summer!

dear friends

5

Making Waves

Jump on board the

Singularis with Fishtail

partner Jeff Citron.

7

FarMed FroM the sea

Litchfield Farms is helping

to change the supply chain

of fish.

8

getting schooled

Learn to make the right

choices in selecting fish.

9

get to knoW Your Fish

Chef Burke’s tips and tricks

on buying and cooking fish.

11

a tale in sustainabilitY

Fishtail focuses on

traceability and

accountability.

12

canvassing the sea

J. Vincent Scarpace has a

passion for painting fish.

15

setting the standards

Honig Vineyard & Winery

is a leader in green

farming practices.

16

cheF’s notebook

Traveling and shopping

with David Burke.

Contents

Burgundy and nothing but Burgundy

©20

09 K

obra

nd C

orpo

rati

on, N

ew Y

ork,

NY

ww

w.k

obra

ndw

inea

ndsp

irit

s.co

m

llj_corp_HauteLife_Burgundy_1208.indd 1 12/4/08 4:34:09 PM


MAkING WAVES Jeff Citron

After first transforming Wall Street by introducing electronic trading while CEO of Datek Online, and then revamping

telecommunications with Internet telephone services through his own company, Vonage Holdings, Jeff Citron is

making waves again . . . this time onshore and off with Chef David Burke in their latest venture together: Fishtail.

longtime patron of Burke’s Park Avenue Café in the 1990s, Jeff Citron developed a friendship with the chef that, years later, flourished into a full-time partnership. “We are both passionate

about people and giving them a wonderful experience—David through food, and I through an understanding about consumer behavior and translating those needs and wants into strong value propositions,” says Citron. Citron is excited about their latest venture: “Diners want a great atmosphere to eat healthy, to enjoy fish in a more traditional style, and to rest assured that the fish is not only fresh but also responsibly caught and sustainable.”

Citron knows a thing or two about fresh fish. An avid fisherman from a young age, he recently developed his skills from near- and offshore fishing to big game. His 50-foot Hatteras, Singularis, has a full-time crew that fishes year-round from the Atlantic coast down to the Caribbean. Citron is on the boat about a third of the time it’s in the water, its agenda including procuring and harvesting particular fish for the restaurant as well as catch-and-release programs in anticipation of tournament season. “We use circle hooks to ensure the healthy state of the fish when we release them,” he explains, “and take great care to catch the right fish of an appropriate size for Fishtail.”

During last year’s tournament season, the Singularis crew pulled in a 285-pound bluefin tuna two days in a row. One was flown directly to Fishtail for restaurant patrons to enjoy, and the other made its way to Japan after buyers back at the docks were impressed by the quality of the fish. “In fact,” he adds, “the buyers were actually upset that we sent one of the fish to an

American restaurant. That is just how much they invest in quality fish that the Japanese market demands.”

Citron has very definite opinions about fishing as both a sport and an industry. He feels local environmental protections are working well to improve marine ecology. “It was rare in the last decade or two to see the kind of marine life we now find in the rivers and nearshore areas, like dolphins, sea lions, and even whales—a testament to the water getting cleaner, faster,” he says. But his main concerns lie with the fishing restrictions that seem to favor commercial fishing boats over recreational fishermen.

“There is no way that sport or recreational fishing will ever decimate a stock,” says Citron. “The culprits are on the commercial side, the ones who use gillnetting, or dragging nets for fish.” While Citron concedes that the government has raised the allowable size limit of fish to be caught, he is quick to point out that in the case of nets, throwing back smaller fish caught as a by-product is a moot point, as the fish are usually already dead. Furthermore, netting kills a lot of baitfish—like whiting, herring, bunker, and mackerel—that larger fish like tuna and marlin rely on for food, keeping those stock levels healthy. “What hurts a fish stock most is when you decimate their food supply. To ensure sustainable fishing, let people fish on tackle. The United States does a pretty good job patrolling for netting in shore waters, but further out, and in international waters, it’s terrible.”

In the end, Citron emphasizes that it’s not about the number of fish you catch in a day, but about going out and hooking that one perfect fish: “While in the Dominican Republic recently, that fish was a 200-pound blue marlin. We caught it and released it, and it was perfect.”

2009 • davidburke

2009 • davidburke

t really wasn’t until after World War II that we saw the impact of industrial fertilizers on the products we were consuming,” says Angera, “and now we are finally back full circle to a time that emphasizes a natural

profile. There was a big social context to the original organic movement, which was to support farmers and eat food that came from people we knew, that was harvested using techniques we approved of, including being good to the animals and the environment.”

As a recreational fisherman, Angera had decided to take a closer look at the seafood sector and recognized it was at the same place that agriculture had been many years ago: in need of refocusing. “The consumption of fish is increasing, as it should. It is an ideal protein source: low in fat and rich in omega-3 and -6. But the general concerns about mercury and pollutants, as well as sustainability and affordability, are genuine.” Litchfield Farms strives to bring its customers—both chefs and individual consumers alike—fresh fish that is completely traceable, by forging relationships with like-minded fisheries the world over.

They start with a defined standard for every fish they distribute. “One hundred percent of wild fisheries are either at capacity or have collapsed today,” Angera states, “so we only support limited wild fisheries that have a cultural connection, not factory fishing. After all, it would be wrong to tell an Ecuadorian fisherman that he can’t go out and catch fish to feed his family or local community, or someone on Long Island who has been oystering there for 300 years to stop. It’s about maintaining a connection to the sea and a cultural connection to tradition.” Case in point: his Brazilian producer that supplies cobia, a wild fish that is often a bycatch. Everyone who works on this particular farm was a local fisherman put out of business when large companies came in with factory boats. “Not only is it a great-tasting product, but you are helping create cultural reinvigoration in the area, so everyone wins.”

A recent study released by the United Nations supports aquaculture farms as the best source of fresh fish for human consumption, and Angera

couldn’t agree more, although he carefully selects only farms that meet the company’s high standards. Litchfield prides itself on its hands-on connection with every facility they work with: each one has been visited and verified by a staff member. “We hold everyone we do business with accountable—we ask for their feed analysis, and we are told of every change or health issue that occurs.” He offers as example the Norwegian company Codfarmers, who have a fully integrated program for cod, currently on the list of endangered species, where they take eggs and sperm together with the local genetics of the Norwegian wild cod and raise them in what Angera considers one of the best-managed environments in the world.

Another example of exemplary farmed fish is the Kindai tuna, a completely cultured bluefin tuna 30 years in the making, courtesy of Japan’s Kinki University. “The fish we represent have to be indigenous,” Angera explains. “Here, wild fish are brought in for the genetic expression, and any excess that can’t be raised are released into the wild. This is a case of cultivating a fish to maintain a cultural connection by preserving a cultural icon, not raising fish to feed the planet because bluefin are so high up on the food chain. Feed the world with cobia, not tuna!”

Litchfield Farms is also committed to education. “Training involves an academic element—a full history of the relationship of all parties in the seafood industry, as well as a demonstration using the fish. In the case of the Kindai tuna, the idea is to show how every piece is usable, right down to the bones used for fish stock after every scrap of meat is removed for tuna tartar. In Japan, even the tendons are cured and made into pastrami.”

“When I walk into a restaurant, I’m not just selling fish—I’m bringing a story with a connection to a person with an exceptional product, and that’s how I get business,” explains Angera. “I connect with the chefs because we share a commitment to the same thing.” And with a little effort on our part, eating the right fish for the right reasons will make all the difference in the world—starting with the oceans.

Hook, Line, and Sinker LITCHFIELD FARMS IS FALLING FOR FISH

A few years back, Litchfield Farms made a decisive move away from land-based agriculture products and into the

seafood market. General Manager Andrea Angera’s grandfather had started the business 75 years ago, at a time

when there weren’t “unnatural” products.

7

2009 • davidburke8

A NEW SCHOOL OF

FISHAs with agriculture, aquaculture is becoming

more transparent in terms of traceability.

NGOs, or nongovernmental organizations,

post their own fish advisory lists. The status of

fish species changes regularly based on new

research. Here’s a sample of the good, the bad,

and the endangered.

BEST CHOICES FOR HEALTHY, SUSTAINABLE FISH

CURRENTLY ENDANGERED FISH

WHAT TO kNOW ABOUT MERCURY AND POLLUTANT LEVELS

atlantic cod

salmon

catfish

marlin

seabass

atlantic cod

salmon

catfish

marlin

seabass

atlantic cod

salmon

catfish

marlin

seabass

These species are currently considered relatively abundant, with fishing or farming methods causing little damage to their habitats and other wildlife.

Abalone (farmed)

Alaska salmon

Albacore tuna

Atlantic char (farmed)

Atlantic herring

Atlantic mackerel

Barramundi (U.S. farmed)

Catfish (farmed)

Haddock (hook and line only)

Mahimahi (U.S. Atlantic)

Pacific cod

Pacific halibut

Pacific sole

Rainbow trout (farmed)

Striped bass

Striped mullet

Tilapia

Tuna (Atlantic only)

Walleye pollack

Yellowtail (U.S. only)

Mercury is a naturally occurring metal that exists at low levels throughout the environment—and because it is an element, it never breaks down or disappears. Mercury is also released into the air primarily from industrial sources, falling to the ground in rain or snow and entering streams, rivers, lakes, and oceans through water runoff, where it is converted into a highly toxic form of mercury called methylmercury. Methylmercury can build up in the tissues of fish, and in high concentrations can pose serious health risks to people who frequently eat contaminated fish.

PCBs, or polychlorinated biphenyls, are highly toxic industrial compounds. Although banned from manufacture in the United States in 1977, PCBs are slow to break down and can persist in the environment at dangerous levels. PCBs accumulate in sediments at the bottom of streams, rivers, lakes, and coastal areas. Like mercury, these chemicals can build up in the fatty tissues of fish and other animals and pose serious health risks if consumed in high concentrations.

Fish is generally healthy to eat, but you should eat some types infrequently, if at all. Blue Ocean Institute, at blueocean.org, works to inspire a closer relationship with the sea through science, art, and literature. One of their efforts resulted in the creation of a phone “text” application. Next time you are at a restaurant or shopping for fish, text “FISH” and the species name to 30644 for instant sustainability information. Cell phone and PDA users can visit fishphone.org to download a cell phone–friendly seafood guide. For more information on unhealthy fish, also visit greenpeace.org or montereybayaquarium.org.

These species have a combination of problems, such as overfishing, high bycatch, and poor management, or farming methods that have serious environmental impact. Some aquacultured farms around the world have made great strides to provide these species in a nonthreatening environment and, furthermore, add to the populations in surrounding waters.

American plaice

Atlantic cod

Atlantic flounder

Atlantic halibut

Atlantic salmon

Atlantic sole

Bigeye tuna

Bluefin tuna

Blue marlin

Corvina

Chilean sea bass

Grouper

Orange roughy

Shark (imported)

Yellowtail (Japanese farmed)

atlantic cod

salmon

catfish

marlin

seabass

2009 • davidburke

ON BUYING FRESH FISH“I can tell if a fish is truly fresh by its shine, eyes, and gills, even the skin itself. A good fish still has a little slime or natural juice on the outside—it looks happy, as if it thinks it’s still swimming! Eyes should always be plump and clear, not sunken, like a clown; the gills, bright red, not brown or bleeding or staining the collar. And the tail should look like fresh hair, not tangled or matted.”

NO BONES ABOUT IT“The biggest problem most people have with whole fish is that it’s usually too bony. While we avoid that with clever butchery, the best tip I can give the home cook is to ask a fish guy to clean your fish: simply clean out the cavity and butterfly it, taking out some of the bones, except for the head and tail.”

WHEN IT’S A WASH“Honestly, we try not to wash our fish. Rinsing a fish usually means you are trying to hide something. If it has a lot of scales, you can hose it off a little, but with the skin intact. We typically wash the outside of shellfish, but we never rinse an oyster if they are open, for example—once again, if you do, it just means there is something wrong with it. If you thaw frozen shrimp, you don’t need to wash them before cooking.”

ESSENTIAL COOkING TOOLS“We hot-grill fish in the restaurants. I like to do it skin on. I find that those nonstick wire fish baskets you use to flip over fish on the BBQ are great for home use. Not only doesn’t the fish stick to the grill, but you can easily pull it away from the flame without having to worry about putting hands that are not used to the heat over a hot BBQ.”

GRILL FAVORITES“Lobster on a grill, shrimp on a grill—both delicious, along with the typical meaty fishes like salmon, swordfish, or tuna. I personally think scallops are too delicate for a grill. As far as crabs, if you don’t mind the work, throw a hard-shell crab on the grill, toss it in a nice vinaigrette, crack it, and enjoy! Soft-shell crab works well on a grill as well.”

kEEPING FISH SIMPLE“I like fish sautéed, steamed, or roasted; and in the summer, nothing beats a nice piece of grilled fish with a little glaze on it. Since I am classically trained in the French style—and they don’t grill fish as much over there—I often would rather put a piece of fish in a wood oven and get it blistered, versus grill marks. I also like fish treated as meat, like a fish steak with sauce, or perhaps pairing swordfish with an egg to make an eggs Benedict of sorts.”

IN THE

atlantic cod

salmon

catfish

marlin

seabass

Chef David Burke can’t say enough about the virtues of a nice piece of fish. “I was initially shocked at the success of

Fishtail, but it just shows how many people of all ages love fish and its healthy aspects!” he says. “Fish has less fat,

plenty of nutritional value, and after you eat it, you feel good that you ate well, aren’t bloated, and did something

positive for the environment at the same time!”



aving excelled in the past by working with partners who focus on animal traceability and accountability, Chef Burke is now making

those same promises to his guests at Fishtail, his latest New York venture. “It’s challenging, it’s interesting, and it’s time to take a stand,” he adds, noting that connecting with the right purveyors, such as the Connecticut seafood distributor Litchfield Farms, has made the job a little easier. He says that while 80 percent of the current menu is sustainable, the goal is to get that percentage even higher. “We are constantly making adjustments to the menu. Cod is popular but not sustainable, so I took it off the menu.” Other items, such as soft-shell crab, are harder to dismiss. “We have to balance what our customers want with what is right. It’s impossible to find sustainable soft-shell crab, but people love them. It doesn’t mean I stop searching for a sustainable source though.”

Known for his custom touches, both on the plate and on the walls, Chef Burke did not allow Fishtail to be immune to his treatment. “I’m by no means a designer,” he chuckles, “but I had fun decorating the space.” And it shows, from the graffiti-laced lamp shades that hang over the downstairs raw bar to the upstairs collection of playful fish paintings that he commissioned—whimsy mixes well with a serious approach in the kitchen.

Although there is a definite nautical theme to the décor, Burke throws typical design a curveball by using deep purple for the banquets that line the downstairs bar. “I kept the wood-plank floor to resemble a boat; found a sculpture adorned with mermaids, that looks like driftwood; and placed

in the stairwell a red glass sculpture, handblown by my good friend and Brooklyn-based chef Michael Ayoub, to give an effect of buoys.” Upstairs, the coral fishnet-wallpapered space, replete in sunshine, takes on a more demure feel. There is even an Andy Warhol—Fish—from Burke’s private collection on display. “Honestly, a lot of what we did was practical design,” admits Chef Burke. “There is definitely a sense of fancy and design, but it’s simple and beautiful in a timeless, sexy fashion, not overdone. We left plenty of room to add or subtract if we want to.”

To complement the juxtaposition of rooms, the menu presents a bounty of balance: simple fare and more intricate dishes both vie for a spot on the table. The menu looks expansive, but on closer inspection, the choices are pared down to different treatments of a few key varieties of fish and seafood. For example, mussels, albeit angry ones à la Burke, appear in both the raw-bar section as well as in a hot dish. To reflect both time and tide, the menu changes seasonally and is constantly fine-tuned.

Creating a sustainable-focused restaurant presents another huge hurdle in addition to sourcing: price. “The fish is more expensive, but we are willing to absorb those costs,” Burke explains. “It’s called ‘investing in what we are doing.’ ” He hopes the success of his latest venture will allow him to spread the word on sustainable seafood to his other restaurants. Early favorable reviews of Fishtail and its initial success in the neighborhood points to this goal as attainable, and necessary for all the right reasons. In the meantime, Chef Burke stays relentlessly committed to providing the freshest fish possible for his guests, even if it means catching it himself!

FishtailCATCH OF THE DAY

Chef David Burke is working to make Fishtail the first all-sustainable seafood restaurant in New York, and he

approaches this lofty goal with real motivation. “It’s the right thing to do,” he explains. “My children should be able

to eat the same fish during their lifetime that I have in mine. If we don’t make changes now, before long they won’t

know what swordfish tastes like, and that would be a real shame.”

2009 • davidburke

Canvassing the SeaJ. VINCENT SCARPACE’S PASSION FOR PAINTING FISH

Based in Texas, J. Vincent Scarpace creates original works of art in acrylic, watercolor, oils, and pastels, and almost

always with a fish theme. Chef David Burke commissioned Scarpace to create a series of nine paintings that hang

on the wall of the top floor of Fishtail, all very much in keeping with the Burke hallmark of whimsy and color.

What is your fascination with fish in art, and what do they represent

to you? The simple answer is, I love fish. The more complex one is that, over time, fish have become an accurate, outward record of my own discovery process as an artist. I have also discovered that my fish represent many different things to my clients: some see them as spiritual, others as a visual representation of wealth and prosperity. I love that my works are open to diverse interpretations!

How did you prepare for the David Burke commission? First and foremost, by listening to my client. Through our conversations, I was able to gain a very real feel for the space, the work requested, and Chef Burke’s vision for Fishtail. My wife and I are both huge fans of the Food Network, and we were very excited when Chef David Burke contacted us about artwork since we knew all about him and his food. He is a creative, forward thinker, and those are my favorite kind of clients.

The pieces you completed are a perfect complement to Chef Burke’s

culinary style—studied and serious, but also colorful and whimsical. Did

you consult his menu or read up on his style of cooking for inspiration?

I definitely think knowing about his food and his style of cooking prior to speaking with him helped me understand his vision. Since Chef Burke had seen my website and was familiar with the type of fish art I create, I deduced that he wanted a more colorful, whimsical feel to the pieces for his restaurant. Once he explained to me the specific mood he wanted to create, I knew exactly what art would fuse perfectly with the atmosphere.

How do you choose the fish for your subjects and come up with their names? While they do have some characteristics of actual species, my fish mostly come from my imagination. I do have clients that contact me wanting picture-perfect recreations of species-specific fish, but more often than not, I am asked to create quirky, romantic types of fish. The names of my works are actually part of the process of creating them: while I paint, I wait for some particular aspect of their character to shine through, and I give them a title that suits them. Maybe it’s all the paint and turpentine fumes I have been exposed to over the years, but naming them is a big part of the fun of creating them!

Do you paint any other sea creatures besides fish? I did paint a vintage lure once, but mostly its fish. I just accepted a client commission for a very large crawfish, so I am excited to see how that creation unfolds. I am always open to the evolution of my artwork.

Do you enjoy fishing? I wish I could say I go as often as I would like to. My father-in-law is an avid fisherman, and it’s been far too long since we’ve been out on a boat together.

What seafood do you enjoy eating? I love all types of fish. Since this is Texas, I like to try catfish locally and crawfish seasonally. Since we live near the coast, I get to enjoy a lot of fresh seafood, in particular tuna, crabs, scallops, and lobster.

12


Leblon_Haute_Life.indd 1 4/13/09 12:35 PM


Lobster Carbonara with Caviar Yields 2 servings

Tuna Tacos Yields 3 mini tacos

Hamachi Tacos Yields 3 mini tacos

INGREDIENTS

2 1-lb lobsters (You can also substitute with 8 shrimp, cooked)

1/3 cup cooked bacon, chopped

4 tbsp onion, finely chopped

1/4 tsp garlic, finely chopped

2 tbsp thyme, chopped

8 cherry tomatoes, halved

TUNA FILLING

6 oz bigeye tuna or sashimi-grade tuna, chopped

2 tbsp shallots, minced

2 tbsp white soy

2 tbsp cilantro, minced

1/4 cup macadamia nuts, roasted and chopped

HAMACHI FILLING

1/4 lb hamachi, finely chopped

1/4 medium red onion, finely minced

2 tbsp cilantro, finely chopped

1/2 tsp lemon juice

PINEAPPLE SALSA

1 cup pineapple, diced

1/4 cup red onion, diced

2 tbsp cilantro

1 tbsp Tabasco

juice of 1 lemon

salt and pepper

3 mini taco shells

3 tbsp Masago caviar

2 ripe Haas avocados, diced

Salt and pepper to taste

3 mini taco shells

METHOD

Cook lobster for approximately 8 minutes in boiling water, and remove shell. Sweat bacon in a medium saucepan over medium-high heat. Add onions, garlic, and thyme, and sauté until the onions are translucent and slightly browned. Add tomatoes and chicken stock. Bring to a simmer and reduce by half. Add peas and pasta. Stir in egg yolks. Remove from heat and place on plate. Top with lobster and then caviar, then garnish with parmesan cheese.

METHOD

In a medium bowl, mix together ingredients for tuna filling. In another medium bowl, mix together ingredients for pineapple salsa. Place approximately 2 ounces of the tuna filling in each taco shell. Top with 1 tablespoon of the pineapple salsa.

METHOD

In a medium bowl, mix together all ingredients for filling. Place approximately 2 ounces of hamachi filling into each mini taco shell. Serve with kabayaki sauce (an eel sauce that can be purchased at Asian gourmet stores).

1 cup chicken stock

1/4 cup fresh peas

1 package imported hand-rolled penne

3 egg yolks

2 oz caviar

2 tbsp parmesan cheese

2009 • davidburke


onig has long been a leader in sustainable farming. In fact, Michael

chaired the first California initiative to develop a “Code of Sustainable

Winegrowing Practices,” a voluntary program establishing statewide

guidelines for sustainable farming and winemaking. He is also involved in

an innovative pilot program that trains yellow lab puppies to detect vine

mealybugs in the vineyard. In addition, Honig recently installed a solar

panel system in the vineyard, which generates electricity for all of their

energy needs and sends the surplus energy into the grid.

Honig is committed to the unique ecosystem on their

property. Starting with the name Honig, the German

word for honey, the family maintains beehives to help

ensure pollination of the various plants on the property.

Careful attention is given to the varieties of plants as

they attract butterflies and other insects that are vital to

maintaining the balance of the ecosystem. Honig also

scatters birdhouses and bat boxes throughout the property.

The birds, a mix of hawks and owls, are natural predators

to gophers and other rodents that can cause so much damage at the winery.

The bats, especially important, work at night to help keep the insect

population in balance.

I asked Michael why they go through all of this effort and expense for non-winemaking practices:

“Winemaking is a generational business. If we don’t value what we have

and protect it for the next generation, there won’t be a family business. If

you destroy how you make your living, well, obviously you aren’t going to

be able to continue making that living.” And according to Michael, their

efforts do contribute to the overall quality of the wines. “We don’t grow

bottles of wine on our vines; we are farmers, and protecting the land and

being caretakers allow us to produce more flavorful, more intense wines.”

About Honig wines: Honig’s range of wines consists of only two

varietals: sauvignon blanc and cabernet sauvignon. I asked Michael why,

after all this time, they haven’t added chardonnay or pinot noir, or other

noble grape varieties, to their portfolio.

“It allows us to stay focused on producing the best

sauvignon blanc and cabernet that we can. Instead of

trying to be everything to everyone, we just keep working

on what we have.”

All of their efforts are definitely paying dividends.

The Honig sauvignon blanc has received high scores

and is currently on the wine lists at both David Burke

Townhouse and Fishtail. There are two different bottlings

of the sauvignon blanc: the Napa, which has some

sémillon in the blend, and is crisp with vibrant, tropical flavors that linger;

and the Reserve, which comes from the sustainably farmed family estate in

Rutherford, and has some muscat and sémillon in the blend. This wine is

rounder and fuller than the Napa Sauvignon Blanc, with a more intense

melon, creamy flavor.

There is also a Late-Harvest Sauvignon Blanc that comes from a plot on the

family estate right next to the Napa River, which helps create the climate

necessary to make great sweet wines. This wine has an amazing balance of

acidity, white-stone fruit flavors, and the taste of honey. Try this with the

Cheesecake Lollipops or the Apple Tart on the menu.

Honig Vineyard & Winery

SETTING THE STANDARDS IN GREEN FARMING PRACTICES

Honig Vineyard & Winery is a family-owned winery located in the Rutherford AVA (American Viticultural Area)

of California’s Napa Valley, producing exceptional sauvignon blanc and cabernet sauvignon. I recently had the

opportunity to speak with Michael Honig, the grandson of Louis Honig, who established the winery in 1964.

By Michael Shef Certified Court of Master Sommelier

Michael Honig


Big Beer Meets Big CuisineTo celebrate Samuel Adam’s recent launch of a more intense, big-beer series, Chef David Burke created a special pairing menu for an event held at Fishtail. The three courses were designed to highlight the flavors of each beer by offering dishes that not only complemented but often used the brew as a component of the meal itself.

As Jim koch and his brewers continue to push the envelope and turn the craft-beer world on its head, they intended this Imperial Series to be savored and appreciated much like a fine wine. Each beer contains almost twice the alcohol by volume of an average beer and more robust, heightened flavor profiles.

“You are starting to see beer on a lot of tasting menus these days,” says Chef Burke, who appreciates the strides Samuel Adams continues to make to match beers with big-cuisine tastes. He is drawn back, time and again, to the unique and vigorous flavors of these beers in particular, and to the pride and quality that goes into the recipe. “Sure it’s satisfying, but it’s more than just that: it’s the same kind of appreciation you have for a great sandwich that you want to savor—it’s a feeling of celebration.”

saM adaMs iMperial White

tasting notes: A seasonal white ale with a fruity finish that opens as it warms up. Dry fruit, exotic spices, and floral blossoms.

paired with at tasting: Sea Urchin Risotto with Laughing Bird Shrimp

other burke suggestions: “From lobster with lemon or lemongrass and any type of Asian stir fry (that isn’t too heavy on the Szechuan) to dishes with fruit in it: pork with applesauce or a chicken with mango salsa.”

saM adaMs iMperial stout

tasting notes: A clean, earthy aroma with pleasant bitterness. Coffee, smoky chocolate, and licorice.

paired with at tasting: Peppered Black Sea Bass; Braised Pheasant with Red Cabbage and Chestnut Spaetzle

other burke suggestions: “From casual fare, like a Bacon Cheese Burker, to a meaty beef Wellington or a BBQ pork with chocolate in the sauce. We also make a cowboy chili with coffee beans that would work well.”

saM adaMs double bock

tasting notes: Intense, rich lager. Malty character balanced with a subtle, piney, citrus note.

paired with at tasting: Coconut Panna Cotta and Beer Gelée

other burke suggestions: “From rich meats to sweet flavors, like cheesecakes and crème brûlées.”

WELCOME ABOARD! Chef Burke welcomes new crew members to The Burke Group: SYLVAIN DELPIQUE, Executive Chef, David Burke Townhouse; JOHN TESAR, Executive Chef, Fishtail by David Burke; BRAD GARDINER, Director of Operations, The Burke Group; MICHAEL SHEF, Beverage Director, David Burke Townhouse; BRANDEN McRILL, Beverage Director, Fishtail by David Burke; TEDDY SURIC, General Manager, Fishtail by David Burke.

NOTHING FISHY ABOUT THESE DESTINATIONS . . .

While in Paris last year sourcing items

for Fishtail, Chef Burke made a few

additions to his itinerary: “Fauchon for

pastry, and the fish market for—what

else?” Next on his travel list: “Hawaii

this summer—now that’s the spot to see

some amazing-looking tuna!”

Busy at Bloomingdale’s . . .

When Chef Burke isn’t busy in the David Burke at Bloomingdale’s kitchen, revamping the counter section

and coordinating wine, tequila, and dinner nights, he spends a little time shopping. “It’s convenient,

and I have everything I need literally at my fingertips! Here’s a selection of the last items I purchased

there: Issey Miyake L’Eau D’Issey Pour Homme, my signature scent; a Louis Vuitton messenger bag;

black Ferragamo shoes; and Armani sunglasses. I’m always in the housewares department, picking out

everything from placemats and towels to toasters for the kitchens. And I’m due to hit the Polo section to

buy up some summer shirts in anticipation of my Hawaiian vacation. Aloha!”

BURkE HEADS TO THE HILLS . . .

Come and meet Chef David Burke at this year’s FOOD & WINE

Classic in Aspen, Colorado, June 19th through June 21st.

SWEET ENDINGS . . .

If you’ve had a chance to sample the Can

o’ Cake at Fishtail, you know what all the

fuss is about. And now you can experience

this show-stopping Burke original at home:

simply call in an order, and pick it up at

Fishtail. For the recipe and method, go to

today.msnbc.msn.com/id/29758361 to check

out Chef Burke making this on a recent NBC

Today show.

CUTTING IT CLOSE . . . With a line of pots, pans, and chefs’ steak knives

about to debut on QVC, Chef Burke has plenty going on

in the kitchen. Stay tuned!

WWW.LAPOSTOLLE.COM

FROM THE HOUSE OF GRAND MARNIER

©2009 IMPORTED BY MARNIER-LAPOSTOLLE CO., NY, NY, SOLE U.S. DISTRIBUTOR, MOËT HENNESSY U.S.A. NY, NY

CELEBRATE WITH THE MOST CELEBRATED

#1 WINE OF 2008CLOS APALTA 2005

BEST NEW WORLDWINERY 2008

2009 • davidburke

hauteTRAVEL

hauteART

hauteTASTE

hauteNOTEWORTHY

david burke locations

Bloomingdale’s New York

Foxwoods Resort & Casino Connecticut

McCarran Airport, Terminal D Las Vegas

burkeinthebox.com

133 East 61st Street New York, NY 10021

tel 212.813.2121

davidburketownhouse.com

26 Ridge Road Rumson, NJ 07760

tel 732.842.8088

fromagerierestaurant.com

616 North Rush at Ontario Chicago, IL 60611

tel 312.660.6000

davidburke.com/primehouse

The Venetian 3355 Las Vegas Blvd S. Las Vegas, NV 89109

tel 702.414.7111

davidburkelasvegas.net

Foxwoods Resort & Casino Route 2 Mashantucket, CT 06338

tel 860.312.8753

davidburkeprime.com

135 E 62nd Street New York, NY 10065

tel 212.754.1300

fishtaildb.com

18

caneel baY

Caneel Bay is a special place—a truly unique

experience in restrained yet fine living. There are

no televisions, telephones, or otherwise digital

distractions at this low-key luxury property, located

within the protected grounds of the Virgin Islands

National Park on the island of St. John. What you’ll

find is 170 acres of lush landscape, including seven

secluded white-sand beaches. Wildlife in the sea

is abundant (turtles, stingrays, and tropical fish

abound), as well as on land (wild donkeys have free

range of the property!). The simply furnished and

elegant accommodations casually blend in at this

serene hideaway that Laurence Rockefeller founded

more than 50 years ago. Visit caneelbay.com.

the JaMes turrell MuseuM

coloMé, argentina

With the new James Turrell Museum of the Hess

Art Collection in Colomé, Argentina, Donald

Hess combines his two passions: top-quality art

and wine. Located in the Hess Family Estates,

with sweeping views of the Andean foothills, the

museum is dedicated entirely to James Turrell’s

vast light installations. Turrell ranks among

the most influential light and space artists of

our time and has been analyzing the various

manifestations of natural and artificial light for

over 50 years. Visit hesscollection.com.

aMerican tuna

American Tuna was started by

six fishing families in and around

San Diego, California, with the idea of providing high-quality

canned tuna to America. San Diego, once the tuna capital of

the world, is home to these fishermen—some third-generation—

who are still living and breathing this hundred-year-old

tradition of pole-and-line-caught albacore. Taking a stand

to protect their fishery and way of fishing for generations

to come, they helped form the American Albacore Fishing

Association. The taste and quality, high levels of omega-3,

and low mercury levels, with no fillers, broth, or water added,

result in a product that is “leagues” better than the rest.

Visit americantuna.com.

Made to taste.coM

MadeToTaste.com is an online shopping destination that offers

a curated selection of chef-created and chef-related products.

Imagine shopping in a chef’s pantry for food products, kitchen

tools and accessories, and cookbooks! MadeToTaste.com also

features chef demonstration videos, recipes, and wine and

cocktail pairings.

Publisher Michael GoldMan

editor-in-chief PaMela Jouan

design director Jana Potashnik BaiRdesign, inc.

Managing editor chRistian kaPPneR

assistant editor stePhane henRion

senior copy editor kelly suzan waGGoneR

contributing writers PaMela Jouan

Photo director chaRles haRRis

advertising inquiries 718.858.1187

hautelife Press a division of c-Bon Media, llc. 321 dean street suite 1 Brooklyn, ny 11217

www.hautelifepress.com [email protected]

subscription inquiries 718.858.1187 [email protected] or visit www.hautelifepress.com

hautelife Press makes every effort to ensure that the information it publishes is correct but cannot be held responsible for any errors or omissions.

Printed and bound in the u.s.a.

© 2009 all rights reserved. Reproduction without permission is strictly prohibited.

Hautenotes From the publisher, haute notes is about the discovery of all things innovative

and exciting in food and wine, art and design, and style and travel. Visit hautenotes.com.

19fall 2007 • davidburke

Columbia Winery was founded in 1962 by ten friends united in the belief that classic European vines could survive the harsh Washington winters and that fine wine could be made in Washington State.

Columbia Winery produces award winning Riesling, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay, as well as exceptional Gewurztraminer and Pinot Gris. We also offer highly-acclaimed vineyard designated wines from long-established vineyards including Otis, Wyckoff and the renowned Red Willow Vineyard.

“Masterful winesfrom

Washington State”

Taste the Washington difference.

2008 Distributed by W.J. Deutsch & Sons, Ltd. Harrison NY 10604 wjdeutsch.com www.columbiawinery.com

CW AD David Burke.indd 1 11/11/08 11:24:54 AM

L IK E NO OTHER STORE IN THE WORLD

bloo

mingd

ales.com

HOTSPOT:HOMEMovie nights. Breakfast in bed. Yoga in the living room.

Now’s the perfect time to turn your home into your favorite hang-out spot. Adorn your space with our well-curated collections from all the best designers,and make walking through your front door feel like a thrill, each and every time.

PUBLICATION

RUN DATE

AD SIZE

MERCH

105771

ROUND 1

ROUND 2

ROUND 3

PREPRESS DUE

OK TO CIRC

OK TO RELEASE*ALL SIGNATURES REQUIRED

BEFORE TRANSMISSION

BUYERS APPROVAL

CREATIVE DIR. AUDREY NIZEN 7667

TRAFFIC MGR PATRICIA CURTIS 7647

PROOFREADERPeter Cherches x7704

PRODUCTION DIR. Robin Narasimhan x7691

XXX 0000

XXX 0000

SR. ART DIRECTOR Phyllis Cox X7686

SR. ART DIRECTOR

JR. ART DIRECTOR

DAVID BURKE

MAY 2009

FULL PAGE

BRAND

4/17/09

COPY DIRECTOR

COPY DIRECTOR

HOME

COPYWRITERMontant Whiteley x7719

PUBLICATION

RUN DATE

AD SIZE

MERCH

105771

ROUND 1

ROUND 2

ROUND 3

PREPRESS DUE

OK TO CIRC

OK TO RELEASE*ALL SIGNATURES REQUIRED

BEFORE TRANSMISSION

BUYERS APPROVAL

CREATIVE DIR. AUDREY NIZEN 7667

TRAFFIC MGR PATRICIA CURTIS 7647

PROOFREADERPeter Cherches x7704

PRODUCTION DIR. Robin Narasimhan x7691

XXX 0000

XXX 0000

SR. ART DIRECTOR Phyllis Cox X7686

SR. ART DIRECTOR

JR. ART DIRECTOR

DAVID BURKE

MAY 2009

FULL PAGE

BRAND

4/17/09

COPY DIRECTOR

COPY DIRECTOR

HOME

COPYWRITERMontant Whiteley x7719

Documents

David Burke S09