Danish Style 10th Century HangerocBy Mistress Thora
SigurdsdottirLilies War 2012Updated 4/14/2014
Womens MeasurementsBack Shoulder - ___________Bust -
________Waist - ________Neck to Knuckle - ________Neck to Waist -
_________Neck to Kneecap - _________Upper Arm - _____________Around
Knuckles - _______Hips - ________Waist to Floor - ___________Neck
to Floor - ________Underarm to Waist - ___________Around
Head__________________
When you lay out the pattern make sure that you only fold over
the amount you need. The extra you will be able to cut into straps.
Below you will find several different ways to attach the loops in
front.
464: woolen smokkr, a silk band folded over the top of the
smokkr 834: unknown material in smokkr, a silk band is found at the
bottom of the brooch, it may have been used to decorate the smokkr
835: woolen smokkr, remains of a silk band under the linen loop.
Possibly decorating the top of the smokkr, or possibly used to hang
tools 1090: woolen smokkr, possible remains of a tablet-woven
woolen band 954: woollen smokkr, a wool string 511, 973, 1083,
1084: woolen smokkr, a string (no info on whether it was made from
linen or wool) 563: linen smokkr, a red string (no info on whether
it was made from linen or wool) 838: woolen smokkr, a braided
string (no info on whether it was made from linen or wool)Inga Hgg:
Kvinnodrkten i Birka, illustration p.53Since the fragments are
found as part of a ship's caulking and not in a grave,
identification of exactly what garment they stem from is more
difficult (there are no "tortoise" brooches here to confirm the
presence of a smokkr).Inga Hgg believe that the hem, combined with
the shape of the dart, deeper in the middle than at the edges, is
evidence that this is part of a smokkr, not a sleeve or some other
garment.The surviving fragments are only wide enough to have
covered part of the body. Probably it covered part of the back, as
the dart is shallow enough to make it unlikely to be from the front
of a smokkr.Inga Hgg: Die Textilfunde aus dem Hafen von Haithabu,
p.38-42, 168-170 illustrations p. 39 and 41(red line added for
emphasis)
Two woolen loops in each tortoise shell brooch. After examining
the loop construction, it showed that they were folded in on its
self and stitched.
I put the back loops toward the middle back seam. It seems to
keeps the straps from falling off your shoulder and it looks
similar to this.
Documentation:
Hald, Margrethe. 1980. Ancient Danish Textiles from Bogs and
Burials. NationalMuseum of Denmark, Copenhagen. ISBN
87-480-0312-3http://homepage.ntlworld.com/shelagh.lewins/shelagh/viking_textiles/hedeby_apron/fragments.jpg
Embroidery from the 10th Century Viking Grave at Mammen Demark,
Heather RoseJones,
2002/2005,http://www.heatherrosejones.com/survivinggarments/index.html
Osebergfunnet, Utgitt Kulturhistorisk Museum, Universitetet I
Oslo, Bild IV Texkstilene,English overview by Roger Tanner and A.
E. Christensen, Oslo 2006, ISBN nr 82-8084-024-9
A Pictorial History of Embroidery, Marie Schuette and Sigrid
Muller-Christensen,English translation copyrighted by Thames and
Hudson, US printing Frederick A.Praeger, 1964
Pictorial Weavings from the Viking Age, Sophia Krafft, Dreyer
Aksjeselskap,Stravanger, 1956
http://www.heatherrosejones.com/mammen/index.htmlHeather Rose
Jones online paper about the Mammen embroideries. Also quite useful
isher searchable catalog of surviving garments of Europe and the
Mediterranean area from the dawn of time through approximately
1500
Dress in Ireland for the Tenth Century by Seathrun
Magaoinghous
Viking Era Embroidery by Dame Hrothny Rognvalsdottir, HL, OP
Coatsworth, Elizabeth, Owen-Crocker, Gale R., Medieval Textiles
of British IsleAD400 1100, British Archaeological Report, 2007,
ISBN 1407301357Casselman, Karen Didick, Lichen Dyes: The New Source
Book, Couirer DoverPublications, 2001, (ISBN 0486412318)
Ewing, Thor Viking clothing Tempus Publishing 2006 ISBN #07524
35876Hald, Margrethe.
Ancient Danish Textiles from Bogs & Burials: A
ComparativeStudy of Costume & Iron Age Textiles. Copenhagen:
The National Museum ofDenmark, 1980
Ostergard, Else Woven Into the Earth: Textiles from Norse
Greenland 2004,Aarhus University Press, ISBN #87 7288 9357
Owen-Crocker, Gale R. Dress in Anglo-Saxon England, Manchester
UniversityPress: Manchester, 1986
Welch, Martin. Discovering Anglo-Saxon England, The Pennsylvania
StatePress, University Park, Pa 1992
Wilson, David M ed. The Archaeology of Anglo-Saxon England,
CambridgeUniversity Press, Cambridge 1976
Batchelor, D. Darenth Park Anglo Saxon Cemetery, Dartford.
ArchaeologiaCantiana, Vol CVII 1990, pp 35 72
A thank you to Seathrun MagAoinghous for all of his
encouragement and support.
Contact information: Terrie Helleloid [email protected]
