8

Cycle Through History - Patriotic

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Summary of tour POIs for ride 2.

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POIs

Canopy

At the junction of six roads, and at the centre of the 3-lakh square metre India Gate Hexagon Complex, the canopy is a 73 foot high cupola inspired by a 6th century pavilion from Māhābalipuram. The four columns are of the “Delhi Order” style (uniform established proportions for parts of a state’s architecture: Delhi Order constitutes a capital (head) with vertical ridges and bells at each corner replacing the spiral “volutes” of Ionic columns’ capitals). Interestingly, all columns of buildings in Delhi designed by Lutyens look like these - pay attention when you visit the Rashtrapati Bhawan, or even Campion Hall at Oxford University, England. Under the canopy, on a pedestal, once stood the 50-foot-tall marble statue of King George V in coronation robes, with the inscription “GEORGE V RI” (Rex Imperator) and the Royal Coat of Arms. The statue was moved to Coronation Park in the 1960s (which cyclists who came for our first ride will remember was also the original site of the Gymkhānā Club). It was long-deliberated in Parliament that a statue of Mahatma Gandhi be placed under the canopy, but nothing came of the proposal.

India Gate

Originally called the All India War Memorial, India Gate is a memorial to the 82,000-odd soldiers of the undivided British Indian Army who died during WWI, the 3rd Anglo-Afghān war, and in France, Flanders, Mesopotamia, Persia, Africa, and Gallipoli. 13,218 names are inscribed on the memorial. The black marble plinth with reversed rifle and helmet, bounded by 4 eternal flames, was added after the Bangladesh Liberation War in 1971. This structure is now known as the Amar Jawān Jyoti, and serves as India’s Tomb of the Unknown Soldier, with all 3 service chiefs and the Prime Minister paying their respects there a few times every year. The stone used for its base is red Bharatpur stone, the same material used to build the Red Fort, the Agra Fort, and Fatehpur Sikri. The two dates inscribed on the circles are 1914 and 1919. Children’s Park

One of Delhi’s oldest parks designed for children, this occupies prime area on the India Gate Hexagon. August Kr ānti Maidān

A namesake of Mumbai’s maidān where Gandhiji launched the Quit India Movement of civil disobedience, this lies on the India Gate Hexagon diametrically across from Children’s Park.

Hyderab ād House

Earlier the Palace of the Nizām of Hyderabād, this was the residence of Osman Ali Khan Nizam VII, the last Nizām of Hyderabad. Also designed by Sir Edwin Lutyens, it is built in a butterfly layout, with Mughal and European architectural elements. It was given to the Indian Government in 1947, and is now used for banquets and conferences. Maj. Dhyān Chand National Stadium

Venue of the first Asian Games in 1951, this is a hockey stadium originally built by the Māhārājā of Bhavnagar as a gift for the British, and named Irwin Amphitheatre. It was subsequently named National Stadium for the first Asiad. National Gallery of Modern Art

Established in Jaipur House, NGMA was established in 1954, and houses more than 14,000 works by artists such as Raja Ravi Varma, the Tagore family, Amrita Sher-Gil, and Thomas Daniell. The building was designed by Sir Edwin Lutyens, and its first curator was Hermann Goetz, an art historian. Rājpath

Mile-long ceremonial avenue at the heart of Lutyens’ Delhi, this plays host to the Republic Day parade each year. National Museum

A must-visit where one can pass a whole day, the National Museum has about 2 lakh exhibits, and also plays host to the National Museum Institute of History of Arts, Conservation, and Museology. The museum has 15 departments and 24 galleries with exhibits from different periods of history and various geographical regions. Vijay Chowk

The Indian equivalent of Moscow’s Red Square, Vijay Chowk sees the Beating the Retreat ceremony performed each year on 29 January, marking an end to the Republic Day celebrations. North & South Blocks

The Central Secretariat of India, which administers the Government of India, is housed in the North and South blocks. Situated on Raisinā Hill, these identical buildings designed by Sir Edwin Lutyens have the offices of all of India’s Ministries, with the MoD, MEA, and PMO in South Block, and the MoF, MHA, and CBDT in North Block.

POIs

Canopy

At the junction of six roads, and at the centre of the 3-lakh square metre India Gate Hexagon Complex, the canopy is a 73 foot high cupola inspired by a 6th century pavilion from Māhābalipuram. The four columns are of the “Delhi Order ” style (uniform established proportions for parts of a state’s architecture: Delhi Order constitutes a capital (head) with vertical ridges and bells at each corner replacing the spiral “volutes” of Ionic columns’ capitals). Interestingly, all columns of buildings in Delhi designed by Lutyens look like these - pay attention when you visit the Rashtrapati Bhawan, or even Campion Hall at Oxford University, England. Under the canopy, on a pedestal, once stood the 50-foot-tall marble statue of King George V in coronation robes, with the inscription “GEORGE V RI” (Rex Imperator) and the Royal Coat of Arms. The statue was moved to Coronation Park in the 1960s (which cyclists who came for our first ride will remember was also the original site of the Gymkhānā Club). It was long-deliberated in Parliament that a statue of Mahatma Gandhi be placed under the canopy, but nothing came of the proposal.

India Gate

Originally called the All India War Memorial, India Gate is a memorial to the 82,000-odd soldiers of the undivided British Indian Army who died during WWI, the 3rd Anglo-Afghān war, and in France, Flanders, Mesopotamia, Persia, Africa, and Gallipoli. 13,218 names are inscribed on the memorial. The black marble plinth with reversed rifle and helmet, bounded by 4 eternal flames, was added after the Bangladesh Liberation War in 1971. This structure is now known as the Amar Jawān Jyoti, and serves as India’s Tomb of the Unknown Soldier, with all 3 service chiefs and the Prime Minister paying their respects there a few times every year. The stone used for its base is red Bharatpur stone, the same material used to build the Red Fort, the Agra Fort, and Fatehpur Sikri. The two dates inscribed on the circles are 1914 and 1919. Children’s Park

One of Delhi’s oldest parks designed for children, this occupies prime area on the India Gate Hexagon. August Kr ānti Maidān

A namesake of Mumbai’s maidān where Gandhiji launched the Quit India Movement of civil disobedience, this lies on the India Gate Hexagon diametrically across from Children’s Park.

Hyderab ād House

Earlier the Palace of the Nizām of Hyderabād, this was the residence of Osman Ali Khan Nizam VII, the last Nizām of Hyderabad. Also designed by Sir Edwin Lutyens, it is built in a butterfly layout, with Mughal and European architectural elements. It was given to the Indian Government in 1947, and is now used for banquets and conferences. Maj. Dhyān Chand National Stadium

Venue of the first Asian Games in 1951, this is a hockey stadium originally built by the Māhārājā of Bhavnagar as a gift for the British, and named Irwin Amphitheatre. It was subsequently named National Stadium for the first Asiad. National Gallery of Modern Art

Established in Jaipur House, NGMA was established in 1954, and houses more than 14,000 works by artists such as Raja Ravi Varma, the Tagore family, Amrita Sher-Gil, and Thomas Daniell. The building was designed by Sir Edwin Lutyens, and its first curator was Hermann Goetz, an art historian. Rājpath

Mile-long ceremonial avenue at the heart of Lutyens’ Delhi, this plays host to the Republic Day parade each year. National Museum

A must-visit where one can pass a whole day, the National Museum has about 2 lakh exhibits, and also plays host to the National Museum Institute of History of Arts, Conservation, and Museology. The museum has 15 departments and 24 galleries with exhibits from different periods of history and various geographical regions. Vijay Chowk

The Indian equivalent of Moscow’s Red Square, Vijay Chowk sees the Beating the Retreat ceremony performed each year on 29 January, marking an end to the Republic Day celebrations. North & South Blocks

The Central Secretariat of India, which administers the Government of India, is housed in the North and South blocks. Situated on Raisinā Hill, these identical buildings designed by Sir Edwin Lutyens have the offices of all of India’s Ministries, with the MoD, MEA, and PMO in South Block, and the MoF, MHA, and CBDT in North Block.

Rāshtrapati Bhawan (photo stop)

The official residence of the President of India, this building designed, once again, by Sir Edwin Lutyens, was originally the Viceroy’s Palace. In terms of area, it is the largest residence of a Head of State in the world. Initially designed to be modern and classically European, with Lutyens’ notes containing the remark “they want me to [do] Hindu - Hindon’t, I say”, it was later redesigned to be sensitive to the local surroundings. Constructed after the decision to move the capital from Calcutta to Delhi was taken, it is today visited by many tourists, with the Mughal Gardens as one of its main attractions. The Jaipur Column stands in front of it. Parliament House

Designed by Lutyens and Baker, it was inaugurated by Lord Irwin to house the Central Legislative Assembly. It is circular to mirror the Ashok Chakr and has the Lok and Rājya Sabhā. It was attacked by terrorists in 2001. Parliament Library & Museum

A repository of legal books and an interactive museum housing the original Constitution of India lie adjacent to Parliament House. Reserve Bank of India

This is the institution that controls the monetary policy of India, with Raghuram Rājan as its current Governor. It also has a Monetary Museum. Ākāshvānī Bhawan

Headquarters of All India Radio, which has broadcasted since 1930 at 102.6 MHz. The Prime Minister’s Mann kī Bāt is also broadcasted on this channel. All India Fine Arts & Crafts Society

An independent arts organisation, that gives awards to artists in India, such as the Kalā Shree, Kalā Vibhushan, Kalā Ratna, and the Kalā Samrāt. Tomb of Fakhruddin Ali Ahmed

The Mazār of India’s 5th President from Assam. Gurudwāra Rakāb-ganj Sāhib

This marks the site of the cremation of the 9th Sikh guru, Guru Tegh Bahādur Ji, after his beheading on orders of Emperor Aurangzeb, when he refused to convert to Islam.

The guru’s body was secreted away in the night by two Sikhs, Lakhi Shah Banjāra and Bhāi Naghaiyā, despite a ban on its cremation. The two took his body to their house and burnt the house down to cremate it (to make it seem like an accident). The site of his beheading is marked by Gurudwāra Sees-ganj Sāhib, also in Delhi (near Chāndni Chowk). Cathedral Church of the Redemption

Also known as Viceroy Church, it is located east of Parliament House and the Jaipur Column. Named based on the church of Il Redentore in Venice (redemption referring to deliverance from the plague), this church’s simple interiors and serene environment are calming. Mughal Gardens

Situated at the back of the Rashtrapati Bhavan, these famed gardens incorporate both Mughal and English landscaping styles and feature a great variety of flowers. They are open to the public in only February each year, during Udyānotsav. Dr. S. P. Mukherjee Swimming Stadium and Talkatora Indoor Stadium

Delhi’s premier swimming facility, which played host to 2010’s Commonwealth Games. It’s running cost is close to 2 lakhs a day. Rām Manohar Lohiā Hospital

Formerly Willingdon Hospital, this hospital was founded for the Govt. staff under the British Rāj. It is attached to the PGIMER of Delhi, and affiliated with Lady Hardinge’s Medical College. Gol D āk-Kh ān ā

Officially called the General Post Office, it is at the intersection of many of Delhi’s important roads, and used to adjoin the office of the CPWD till the 60s, forming a complex once called Alexandra Place. Sacred Heart Cathedral

The North Indian Mission was initiated on invitation of Emperor Akbar (with his Din-i-Ilahi and Ibādatkhānā), and 3 Jesuits from Goa were responsible for the propagation of Christianity in northern India. After a long period of ups-and-downs in finding funds, it was completed in 1935. Gurudwāra Bangl ā Sāhib

Delhi’s most prominent gurudwāra, this stands at the site of a well of water which the 8th guru, Guru Harkrishan Ji, reportedly used to cure hundreds of people afflicted with smallpox and cholera in 1664. Eventually, after healing scores of followers, the guru died of smallpox.

Rāshtrapati Bhawan (photo stop)

The official residence of the President of India, this building designed, once again, by Sir Edwin Lutyens, was originally the Viceroy’s Palace. In terms of area, it is the largest residence of a Head of State in the world. Initially designed to be modern and classically European, with Lutyens’ notes containing the remark “they want me to [do] Hindu - Hindon’t, I say”, it was later redesigned to be sensitive to the local surroundings. Constructed after the decision to move the capital from Calcutta to Delhi was taken, it is today visited by many tourists, with the Mughal Gardens as one of its main attractions. The Jaipur Column stands in front of it. Parliament House

Designed by Lutyens and Baker, it was inaugurated by Lord Irwin to house the Central Legislative Assembly. It is circular to mirror the Ashok Chakr and has the Lok and Rājya Sabhā. It was attacked by terrorists in 2001. Parliament Library & Museum

A repository of legal books and an interactive museum housing the original Constitution of India lie adjacent to Parliament House. Reserve Bank of India

This is the institution that controls the monetary policy of India, with Raghuram Rājan as its current Governor. It also has a Monetary Museum. Ākāshvānī Bhawan

Headquarters of All India Radio, which has broadcasted since 1930 at 102.6 MHz. The Prime Minister’s Mann kī Bāt is also broadcasted on this channel. All India Fine Arts & Crafts Society

An independent arts organisation, that gives awards to artists in India, such as the Kalā Shree, Kalā Vibhushan, Kalā Ratna, and the Kalā Samrāt. Tomb of Fakhruddin Ali Ahmed

The Mazār of India’s 5th President from Assam. Gurudwāra Rakāb-ganj Sāhib

This marks the site of the cremation of the 9th Sikh guru, Guru Tegh Bahādur Ji, after his beheading on orders of Emperor Aurangzeb, when he refused to convert to Islam.

The guru’s body was secreted away in the night by two Sikhs, Lakhi Shah Banjāra and Bhāi Naghaiyā, despite a ban on its cremation. The two took his body to their house and burnt the house down to cremate it (to make it seem like an accident). The site of his beheading is marked by Gurudwāra Sees-ganj Sāhib, also in Delhi (near Chāndni Chowk). Cathedral Church of the Redemption

Also known as Viceroy Church, it is located east of Parliament House and the Jaipur Column. Named based on the church of Il Redentore in Venice (redemption referring to deliverance from the plague), this church’s simple interiors and serene environment are calming. Mughal Gardens

Situated at the back of the Rashtrapati Bhavan, these famed gardens incorporate both Mughal and English landscaping styles and feature a great variety of flowers. They are open to the public in only February each year, during Udyānotsav. Dr. S. P. Mukherjee Swimming Stadium and Talkatora Indoor Stadium

Delhi’s premier swimming facility, which played host to 2010’s Commonwealth Games. It’s running cost is close to 2 lakhs a day. Rām Manohar Lohiā Hospital

Formerly Willingdon Hospital, this hospital was founded for the Govt. staff under the British Rāj. It is attached to the PGIMER of Delhi, and affiliated with Lady Hardinge’s Medical College. Gol D āk-Kh ān ā

Officially called the General Post Office, it is at the intersection of many of Delhi’s important roads, and used to adjoin the office of the CPWD till the 60s, forming a complex once called Alexandra Place. Sacred Heart Cathedral

The North Indian Mission was initiated on invitation of Emperor Akbar (with his Din-i-Ilahi and Ibādatkhānā), and 3 Jesuits from Goa were responsible for the propagation of Christianity in northern India. After a long period of ups-and-downs in finding funds, it was completed in 1935. Gurudwāra Bangl ā Sāhib

Delhi’s most prominent gurudwāra, this stands at the site of a well of water which the 8th guru, Guru Harkrishan Ji, reportedly used to cure hundreds of people afflicted with smallpox and cholera in 1664. Eventually, after healing scores of followers, the guru died of smallpox.

Even today, the water is considered curative in nature, and devotees carry it to their homes all over the world. Young Women’s Christian Association

YWCA, the female counterpart to YMCA, works for socio-economic progress for women around the world. Election Commission of India

The ECI is an autonomous, established federal authority that administers all the electoral processes in the Republic of India. Parliament Police Station (Sansad Mg)

One of India’s oldest police stations, dating to 1913. SBI Headquarters State Bank of India’s central HQ. NDMC Palika Kendra & Convention Centre

A huge building in the form of a namasté. Jantar Mantar

One of 5 such observatories built by Māhārāja Jai Singh II of Jaipur, who was tasked with revising calendars and astronomical tables by Muhammad Shāh, Delhi’s Jantar Mantar houses 13 instruments that help in astronomy. Grand Masonic Lodge

India’s headquarters of the long-regarded-as-a-secret-cult Freemasons. Central Cottage Emporium

A repository and store for India’s authentic handicrafts, and a place much-frequented by foreign and Indian visitors to Delhi alike.

Agrasen ki Baoli (stop)

A step well in the heart of Delhi purportedly built by legendary king Agrasen of the Māhābhārat era. Some part remains perpetually submerged. It was popularised by the Bollywood film, ‘PK’.

Mandi House & The Delhi Theatre Circuit

Once the residence of the Rāja of Mandi in Delhi, Mandi House’s sprawl was divided amongst Himachal Bhawan, Doordarshan Bhawan, and, most importantly, many theatres of Delhi - a hub for Delhi’s culture and drama enthusiasts. Kamāni Auditorium, Rabindra Bhawan, Shri Ram Centre for Performing Arts, National School of Drama, The Little Theatre Group, FICCI, and Lalit Kalā Akādemi are just some of the places frequented by the “culture-vultures” of Delhi.

Alexander Pushkin Statue

At the Mandi House Roundabout stands, interestingly, the statue of Alexander Pushkin, the founder of modern Russian literature. This romantic poet and author is regarded as the greatest Russian poet who ever lived, with works such as Mozart and Salieri (which was inspiration for the film, Amadeus), and Ruslan and Lyudmila to his credit. Modern School

One of Delhi’s oldest, most reputed schools. Iran Embassy

It has a beautiful façade. M āh ār āja Ranjit Singh

Founder of the Sikh empire in Punjāb. Connaught Place

Officially Rājiv Chowk, CP is the former location of the headquarters of the British Rāj. It is currently the world’s 4th most expensive office estate, and a hub of commerce. The recently-renovated central park plays host to the largest known Indian flag, and is a popular destination thanks to the free Wi-Fi. P ālikā Bazar

India’s biggest thrift market, this is an underground air-conditioned market with shops selling a veritable multitude of goods at dirt-cheap prices. Wenger’s and Keventer’s

The bakery and milkshake shop, which have been around for decades, are popular destinations for students in the nearby Lady Hardinge College.

Even today, the water is considered curative in nature, and devotees carry it to their homes all over the world. Young Women’s Christian Association

YWCA, the female counterpart to YMCA, works for socio-economic progress for women around the world. Election Commission of India

The ECI is an autonomous, established federal authority that administers all the electoral processes in the Republic of India. Parliament Police Station (Sansad Mg)

One of India’s oldest police stations, dating to 1913. SBI Headquarters State Bank of India’s central HQ. NDMC Palika Kendra & Convention Centre

A huge building in the form of a namasté. Jantar Mantar

One of 5 such observatories built by Māhārāja Jai Singh II of Jaipur, who was tasked with revising calendars and astronomical tables by Muhammad Shāh, Delhi’s Jantar Mantar houses 13 instruments that help in astronomy. Grand Masonic Lodge

India’s headquarters of the long-regarded-as-a-secret-cult Freemasons. Central Cottage Emporium

A repository and store for India’s authentic handicrafts, and a place much-frequented by foreign and Indian visitors to Delhi alike.

Agrasen ki Baoli (stop)

A step well in the heart of Delhi purportedly built by legendary king Agrasen of the Māhābhārat era. Some part remains perpetually submerged. It was popularised by the Bollywood film, ‘PK’.

Mandi House & The Delhi Theatre Circuit

Once the residence of the Rāja of Mandi in Delhi, Mandi House’s sprawl was divided amongst Himachal Bhawan, Doordarshan Bhawan, and, most importantly, many theatres of Delhi - a hub for Delhi’s culture and drama enthusiasts. Kamāni Auditorium, Rabindra Bhawan, Shri Ram Centre for Performing Arts, National School of Drama, The Little Theatre Group, FICCI, and Lalit Kalā Akādemi are just some of the places frequented by the “culture-vultures” of Delhi.

Alexander Pushkin Statue

At the Mandi House Roundabout stands, interestingly, the statue of Alexander Pushkin, the founder of modern Russian literature. This romantic poet and author is regarded as the greatest Russian poet who ever lived, with works such as Mozart and Salieri (which was inspiration for the film, Amadeus), and Ruslan and Lyudmila to his credit. Modern School

One of Delhi’s oldest, most reputed schools. Iran Embassy

It has a beautiful façade. M āh ār āja Ranjit Singh

Founder of the Sikh empire in Punjāb. Connaught Place

Officially Rājiv Chowk, CP is the former location of the headquarters of the British Rāj. It is currently the world’s 4th most expensive office estate, and a hub of commerce. The recently-renovated central park plays host to the largest known Indian flag, and is a popular destination thanks to the free Wi-Fi. P ālikā Bazar

India’s biggest thrift market, this is an underground air-conditioned market with shops selling a veritable multitude of goods at dirt-cheap prices. Wenger’s and Keventer’s

The bakery and milkshake shop, which have been around for decades, are popular destinations for students in the nearby Lady Hardinge College.

Notable roads, intersections, and their backstories:

KG M ārg Kasturb ā Gandhi was the Mahatma’s spouse.

Tilak M ārg “Lokmanya” Bāl Gangādhar Tilak was a notable reformer, and the first leader of the Indian freedom movement.

Dr. Zākir Husain Mg 3rd President of India, and first Muslim President. Educationist and intellectual.

Sh āhj āhan Rd Mughal emperor, famous for the Taj Mahal.

M ānsingh Rd One of Akbar’s Navratnas, he was the King of Amber (Jaipur).

Janpath “People’s Way”, famous for its cheap shops with popular brands’ knockoffs

Rafi Ahmed Kidwai Mg Politician, independence activist.

Sansad Chowk & Sansad Mg Sansad means parliament.

Pandit Pant Mg Veteran Indian freedom fighter and politician.

B āb ā Kharak Singh Mg President of the Central Sikh League and independence activist, founder of SGPC.

Ashoka Rd Mauryan emperor who ruled almost all of India, and later converted to Buddhism.

Tolstoy Rd Legendary Russian novelist and Count known for War and Peace , and Anna Karenina .

Shrimant Madhavrao Scindia Mg M āh ā rāja of Gwalior, politician, and minister.

Copernicus Mg Polish renaissance mathematician who proposed the heliocentric model.

B ār ākhamb ā Rd Its name is credited to the 12-pillared house of a Tughlaq-era noble, now demolished.

Safdar H āshmi Mg Communist playwright and director, best known for his work with street theatre in India. He was also an actor, lyricist, and theorist.