Cutting Room

Objective of Cutting RoomPlanning and Reproduction of markerSpreadingCuttingPreparation of cut work for the sewing room

Planning, Drawing & Reproducing MarkerMarker planning placement of pattern pieces to meet technical requirements

Marker PlanningLarger patterns are positioned first.Smaller patterns fitted in thhere gapSkill lies in finding the edges which fits toget

Requirement of Marker PlanningNature of the fabric and desired resultRequirement of quality in cuttingRequirement of production planning

Nature of the fabric & desired resultPattern alignment in relation to fabric grainSymmetry and AssymetryDesign Characteristics of finished garment

Requirement of quality in cuttingType of cutting machinePattern countCorrect labeling of cut garment parts

Requirements of Production PlanningTotal no. of pieces and size and color ratio

Marker UtiliztionMarker Utilization= Area of Patterns in marker plan X100Total area of marker plan

How to maximize???

Reducing seam allowancesPlacing a pattern 1/2degree off grainFabric Width

Methods of Marker PlanningManual Marker PlanningComputerised Marker Planning

Your Assignment

SpreadingTo place the no. of plies of fabric that the production planning process has specified to the length of the marker plan in the colors required, correctly aligned as to length and width and without tension

Basic requirementsStrong tablesSteel rails at the edge of the table for movement of spreading machineTable top is laminated, in some cases vaccum facility.

Requirements of spreading processShade SortingCorrect ply direction and adequate lay stabilityPly alignmentCorrect ply tensionElimination of fabric faults

Cutting MachinesPortable KnivesStationary Cutters

Straight Knife

Elements of Straight KnifeBase Plate: usually on rollersStand carrying KnifeBladeElectrical MotorHandleSharpening Device

Machine Power is required for up and down movement of bladeOperator power drives the knife through the layBlade height: 10cm-33cmBlade Stroke: 2.5-4.5 cm

VersatilePortableCheapAccurate at CurvesEasy to use

Rotary Knife

Cutting KnivesBlade Dia: 6-20 cmNot suitable for cutting curved linesUse to cut straight lines onlyVery few plies

Band Knife

Continuously rotating steel blade mounted on pulleysBlade is fixedNarrower blade than straight knifeMore accurate cuttingTemplates of plastic or heavyboard or plastic may be placed on a sectioned block

NotchersNotches required to allign garment parts during sewingGuide lines up the notcher with the cut edge for consistent depth of notchHot Notcher

Drills and Thread MarkersRequirement of reference marks away from the edge of fabricCold Drill/ Hot DrillHypodermic drillThread Marker

Die CuttingMost accurate cuttingPreshaped metal outlines with one cutting edgePlacement of fabric, positioning of die on the fabricand engaging the machine to press the die into the fabricUsed for collars, pocket flaps, appliques, gloves etc.

Automated Cutting machinesLaser CuttingWater Jet CuttingPlasma CuttingAutomated Blade Cutting

Laser CuttingFocuses a powerful beam of light projected on to a minute area to cut fabric by vaporization.004 inch wideVery high speedHigh AccuracyHeat produced tends to seal edgesSingle ply cutting

Water Jet CuttingPropelling a tiny jet of water (.0010-0.0015 inch)Multiple ply cutting without fusing but edges may fray/entangle

Plasma Jet CuttingSame features as laser jet but at lower price.