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theVisual Merchandising Concepts

This visual guide shows a series of comparisons that encourage the viewer to take an in-depth look at gar-ments. The images also play as a root to an visual display that would appear within a store or as window display. These juxtapositions will add an element of intrigue and education to the shopper. The goal is to promote better decision being made when purchasing additions to their wardrobe. Garments should be

relevant to the person wearing them and appropriate for the situation.

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The masculinity expressed by the rams horns and the recognizable iconography of the bomber jacket | The structurally sound bower of the Satin Bower Bird and the self reflecting spread collar dress shirt | The regulations put into place by the War Production Board and how those formed the modern American men’s suit | The choice to select a French Cuff dress shirt and how that allows a man to “peacock” in a professional setting | The act of performing can be just as influential as the end result | The adaptation to a rugged atmosphere led to a more durable fabrics, creating modern day armor | The important role the red epaulet plays to the Blackbird and how the same importance should be applied to men’s suits | The cardigan sweater and how this garment helps maintain the manicured appearance of the wearer | The shawl collar and its association with luxury and leisure | The creation of the polo shirt and the sporting event that inspired it all | The functional aspects of the winged-tipped brogue and how they have transformed into a decorative element | The jacket that was inspired by the mobility of the wearer, while still maintaining a professional appearance | The evolution of the time and how it acquisition was through a lengthy war battle | The way a neckline can act a chisel to create a more defined jaw line | The tennis shoe and the connection that exists with the beaches | A post war ban on a specific pattern, in an attempt to remove communities, unity and livelihood and how Prohibition in America was similar.

COMPARISONS MADE IN THIS ISSUE

to play its part

STATUS RECOGNITION WITHIN A SPECIES IS CRUCIAL FOR PROGRESSION

In nature, the displays of certain colors become an integral part of survival. Take the Red- Winged Blackbird for instance, a bird that is mostly black except for the red (with a splash of yellow) feathers that lie on the top section of his wing. Studies have been performed on this bird that prove the significance and importance of the red color of the epaulet. When the color is concealed with a black hair dye or paint, the birds effectiveness declines. Their ability to maintain or capture new territory is greatly affected by the size or presence of their epaulet. The absence of the color causes more birds to become aggressive towards him, while the exaggerated size of epaulet ensures that the bird is the “alpha-bird”. Of course with the inability to hold territory the bird could be exiled into an unsafe environment. The epaulet becomes a necessity for the bird to place it’s self with it own habitat. Without the color on is wing, he will not be

able to find a home (which will make him unattractive to female counterparts), not will he be able to support a family or propagate. We also see that the epaulet is favored by female choice of mates. These birds may have been suitable mates, but were discounted based on their appearance. The female birds do not have the time to “get to know” the male bird, so are they are programmed to make their decision based on visuals alone. It’s not because she doesn’t favor the color red, its that she favors what the red color epaulet to can bring to her and her potential family. If her mate possesses this feature it is most likely that he has an established home and that he can spend more time caring for his family, because he will not have to be defending his territory. Other male birds take the red wing as warning sign, and to avoid an aggressive attack they search elsewhere for property to call their own.

COMPARISONS MADE IN THIS ISSUE

As early as World War I when airplanes had open cockpits, pilots began seeking clothing to provide warmth and comfort in the cold temperatures of the open skies. When not worn for function, the jacket becomes a trophy for the wearer. Especially if the jacket is authentic, in that it was given to the man from the services that he had performed, the garments tells of his history and his skills. This jacket becomes the epitome of honor, masculinity and sense of adventure.

For the right man, this collar will frame his face perfectly. This type of collar should be worn with a larger necktie knot to fill in some of the space. A man who wears a dress shirt with a spread collar shows his individual style by knowing that it looks good on him and wearing it with confidence. The spread of the collar should be proportional to the jaw line; thus a thinner face could be associated with a healthier physique. With this in mind, The Satin Bower Bird builds its own shape of bower and each prefers a different decorating scheme. When selecting the sticks for it’s bower the diameter and sturdiness of the branch are a reflection of the bird himself. He also chooses elements in the habitat: metallics, colors and materials to express its personal style, in hopes to draw attention of a female mate.

The 1920’s brought upon wide legged trousers and double breasted suits that were nothing less than decadent with fabric consumptions. During World War II, the War Production Board was put into place to regulate the production and allocation of materials in the United States. To reduce on the fabric that was used to make the American men’s suit, previsions were put into place. These restrictions led to the modernization of the suit and a more tailored silhouette.

Double Cuffs allow the wearer to showcase their sense of style and individuality with their favorite cuff links, shirts patterns and colors. Still, they are a favorite of boardrooms and corporate headquarters because the cuff gives the wearer an opportunity to grab the attention of his audience. The flash of fabric that peeks out from the jacket grabs the eyes of your peers or coworkers and this gives the man the upper hand.

Traditionally bow ties are more about the act of tying than the result of the bow. The ability to tie is an elite practice only possessed by those who attend specific events. Reserved for the upper class, this type of education was only among the wealthy. Thinking back to the time of Han Dynasty, calligraphy was one of the greatest skills that a man could posses, especially in the eyes of the Literati. Like the skill of tying a bow tie, the skill of calligraphy is brought to an art form and something that was only shared with the elite.

The first use of denim as a cotton material dates as far back as the 17th century, when it appeared in upholstery, work pants, awnings, ship’s sails and cowboy jeans – the fabric of hardworking, honest labor. Denim jackets were originally created for the workplace; they were a part of the overall denim outfit that was rugged and durable, helping to keep parts of the body safe.

This collarless, button-front or zip sweater takes its name from the Seventh Earl of Cardigan who was famously in command of the cavalry at the Charge of the Light Brigade. Legend has it that the Earl invented the style because he wanted a sweater he could pull over his head without mussing his coiffure. When thinking about the origin of this sweater we must keep in mind that the function is to maintain a mans finely manicured hair and keep him from looking dishevelled.

Inspired by a man’s sleeping robe, this collar speaks to leisure and causality. During the 17th century, it was very popular to enjoy a cigar before a nightly rest. In order to create something that could be worn in a more social setting the style was adapted into a smoking jacket most commonly designed with a shawl collar. At this time, tobacco was a luxury product and to have you portrait painted adorning one of these collars, would be a projection of wealth.

Despite the name, this shirt has nothing to do with the game of Polo. René Lacoste, the French 7-time Grand Slam tennis champion, decided that the stiff tennis attire was too cumbersome and uncomfortable. With his unsatisfactory opinion of the current design he choose to create his own shirt. His design included: the short, cuffed sleeves solved the tendency of long-sleeves to roll down, the soft collar could be loosened easily by unbuttoning the placket, the piqué collar could be worn upturned to block the sun from the neck, the jersey knit piqué cotton breathed and the “tennis tail” prevented the shirt from pulling out of the wearer’s trousers or shorts.

These sturdy lace-up shoes, whose seams and toes are punctured and stitched to form decorative elements, are a staple in most men’s closets. Typically known as Wing tips these are a form of the brogue with a decorative detail on the toe. Modern brogues trace their roots to a rudimentary shoe originating in Scotland and Ireland that was constructed using untanned leather with perforations that allowed water to drain from the shoes when the wearer crossed wet terrain such as a bog. At the time of creation, the shoe was thought of as an outdoor walking shoe, but over time perceptions have changed and brogues are now considered appropriate in most contexts,

including business.

The flight jacket gets its name from the type of mobility that this jacket provides. For the man on the go, this jacket is perfect. It allows for the wearer to be comfortable on his trip while arriving to his destination dressed to impress. The unlined quality of the jacket allows full movement of the arms; while carrying the same silhouette of blazer or suit jacket.

The necktie became a true mania when Louis XIV noted the band of fabric that Croatian soldiers were wearing around their necks. After the French defeated the Croatians in the war, they “stole” this style of neckwear, like war loot, from them and made it their own. Into the 19th century, the popular models of that time were wearing the sign of their country of origin, such as Russian, American, Irish and Italian neckties. In addition, they were tying styles that were symbolizing interesting themes as diplomacy, loyalty, and travel. The neckties were representing the individuality as well as the social status of the wearer through the different shapes and styles of tying. This still applies with the same force today.

Much like the collar on a dress shirt, the lines created by the top of this garment are meant to carry up and onto the face. The lines created by the V neckline act as guidelines for the eye. The V shape line helps to carve a sharp line to the male jawbone. Typically people with defined jaw lines usually look older when they’re young and younger when they’re old. The definition in the bone structure is much like that of tone in muscle, connoting good health and regular exercise.

The first tennis show was modeled after the 1830’s version of the beach shoe. Soon after the shoe acquired the nickname ‘plimsoll’ derived from Nicholette Jones’ book “The Plimsoll Sensation”, because the colored horizontal band joining the upper to the sole resembled the Plimsoll line on a ship’s hull, or because, just like the Plimsoll line on a ship, if water got above the line of the rubber sole, the wearer would get wet. In the UK plimsolls were compulsory in schools’ physical education lessons. The invention of the rubber soled shoe led to Goodyear, then a rubber shoe company and division of the U.S. Rubber Company, beginning to manufacture rubber and canvas shoes under different names.

Plaid are the derivative of the Scottish “clan” Tartan. During their conception, the criss-crossed horizontal and vertical bands in multiple colors was associated with regions or districts, rather than by any specific relationship or identity. The Dress Act of 1746 banned the use of all forms of Highland Dress. In an attempt to suppress the rebellious Scottish culture, the act stated that no tartan or party-colored plaid be used for Upper Coats. The Act specifically mentions, and bans the use of, Plaid, Kilts, and Shoulder-belts. When the laws were repealed in 1782 there was a resurgence of Scottish nationalism and efforts to restore the spirit and culture of the Highlands after their lengthy period of repression were encouraged by the newly formed Highland Societies in London and Edinburgh. After the ban, development and the use of tartan expanded rapidly, partly fuelled by the legends developing around characters like Bonny Prince Charlie and the romantic writings of authors such as Sir Walter Scott.

All photos and information courtsey of:

scotshistoryonline.co.uk/tartan-history.htmlscottish-heirloom.com/scottish-blog/index.php/2011/02/10/dress-act-1746

shop-usa.info/TIE_HISTORY/tie_history.htmlsneakerhead.com/sneaker-history-p1.html

thepreppylife.com/2010/08/history-of-the-polo-shirt/

mrporter.com/styledirectory/stylepedia/b

mrporter.com/styledirectory/stylepedia/a

knol.google.com/k/wearing-a-spread-collar#

pbs.org/wnet/nature/episodes/bower-bird-blues/introduction/2109/

denimgeek.com/history-of-denim

americanmistique.com/bomber-jacket-history.html

chinese-school.netfirms.com/Chinese-calligraphy-history.html

puffingcigars.com/cigar-accessories/the-cigar-smoking-jacket/366/