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8/16/2019 Curved Front Wall Cabinet
1/14
CURVED-FRONT
WALL CABINET
© 2014 August Home Publishing Co.
8/16/2019 Curved Front Wall Cabinet
2/141 WoodsmithPlans.com WS15632 ©2014 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reserved.
curved-front
Wall Cabinet
Heirloom Project
If making curved doors has you
over a barrel, try taking a look at the
coopered door technique we used
to build this unique wall cabinet.
8/16/2019 Curved Front Wall Cabinet
3/14
Top panel
Back is madeup of tongue and
groove panels
Adjustable shelf
Door catch
Brassknob
Wrap-around hinge
Doors arebuilt withcoopered
staveconstruction
Curved drawer front is cut from
solid wood blank
Drawer sidesare dovetailed
to front
Front moldingis beveled to
match curvatureof doors
Solid wood side panel "floats" in
rail and stile frame
NOTE: Entire cabis made of solid w
OVERALL DIMENSIONS:
21!/2"W x 10!%/16"D x 30!/2"H
TOP SECTION VIEW(Drawer)
Drawer front and sides are joined
with sliding dovetail
TOP SECTION VIEW(Doors and Shelf)
Shelf and dividers
are curved alongfront edge to match
profile of doors
2 WoodsmithPlans.com WS15632 ©2014 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reserved.
8/16/2019 Curved Front Wall Cabinet
4/14
building the CASE SIDES
From a construction standpoint, the
gently-curved doors on this cabi-net may seem a little intimidatinginitially. But don’t be fooled. Yes —
making curved doors does requirea little extra work compared to flat
doors. But as you’ll discover, it’s notnearly as complicated as it looks.
And if you look past the doors for aminute, the rest of the case is prettymuch like any other cabinet.
CASE.
The case of the cabinet ismade up of two sides joined by
three dividers. Then a top and bottom are added to finish it off.
The only thing that is a bit unusual
about the case is the front edgemolding. It has a profile to matchthe curve of the door. But I’ll explain
more about that later.
SIDES. Starting off, you can make
the two frame and panel sides. Asyou can see in the main drawing
on this page, there’s nothing trickyhere — just a pair of stiles joined
by a top and bottom rail. Stub ten-
ons and grooves are used to jointhe frame pieces (detail ‘a’). And
the solid wood panels are held inthe frames with tongue and groove
joints (see How-To box at left).The side panels fit flush with
the rails and stiles, with a 1/16"shadow line all around. But togive the panels room to expand
and contract inside the frame, Imade the tongues along the edges
of the panels slightly shorter thanthe tongues on the ends. You can
see what I’m talking about in thedetail drawings above.
Once the frames are glued up
around the panels, you’ll need tocut a rabbet along the back edge
of each side to hold a back that isadded later (see detail ‘c’). A secondrabbet cut along the front stiles cre-
ates a tongue for attaching the mold-ing. Then after drilling some shelf
pin holes (see main drawing onthe previous page) you can cut the
Cut groovein two passes
Tall auxiliary
fence
E
Aux.fence
Aux.
fence
Dado
blade
SIDE PANEL
E
C
A
FRONT
STILE
SIDE PANEL
TOP
RAIL
!/4
!/4 !/4
!/4
!/2
(/16
!/2
a.
TOP SECTIONVIEW
E
D
C
FRONT
STILE
REAR
STILE
!/16
!/16
!/16
!/16
!/2
!/2
!/2
!/2
Detail of right sideonly,
left side ismirrored
#/8
!/4
c.
END
VIEW
!/2
!/4
!/4
a. END VIEW
E
Aux.
fence
a.
FRONTSECTION
VIEW
E
A
!/16 !/2
!/4
!/4
(/16
b.
How-To: Tongue & Groove Joint
3 WoodsmithPlans.com WS15632 ©2014 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reserved.
Cut the Tongue. To cut the tongues on
the panels, bury the dado blade in an
auxiliary fence attached to your rip fence.
Center Groove. To center the groove on
the thickness of the stock, flip the work-
piece end for end between passes
8/16/2019 Curved Front Wall Cabinet
5/144 WoodsmithPlans.com WS15632 ©2014 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reserved.
Rout Cove. After beveling the two faces
of the blank, use a core box bit to rout
a cove along the length of the molding.
Lay Out Notches. Slide a layout block
into the dadoes in the sides to mark the
locations of the notches for the dividers.
Cut Notches. Cut the notches with
dado blade, holding the molding tightl
against a miter gauge auxiliary fence.
dadoes for the three horizontaldividers that will be added later.
(See drawing and detail ‘b’ at rightfor dado size and locations.)
FRONT MOLDING. With the sides com-
plete, you can make the moldingthat fits over the front edges. This is
a three-step process. Starting with a
piece of 11/16"-thick stock, bevel twofaces of the molding blank (detail‘a’). Then a cove is routed along theedge where these two bevels meet
(see first drawing in box below).Finally, cut a groove along the back
side of the molding to match thetongue on the front stiles.
Once you have the front mold-ing trimmed to length, the nextstep is to cut three shallow notches
in each piece to hold the divid-ers that will be added later. Here’s
where you want to take your time.The trick is to lay out the notchesas accurately as possible so that the
dividers will slip right into them.As you can see in the second
drawing in the box below, I madea layout block that matched the
thickness of the stock I had setaside for making my dividers (3/4").
The block allows you to mark outthe exact location of the notcheson the inside face of the mold-
ing. Then you simply transfer thelayout lines around the moldings.
To cut the notches, I used adado blade and an auxiliary
fence on my miter gauge. Becauseof the bevel on the edge of themolding, you’ll have to hold
the molding tight against themiter gauge fence as you sneak
up on the depth of the notches.Take a look at the last drawing
in the box below to see exactly
what I’m talking about.Instead of gluing the moldings
on at this point, I found it easierto wait until after I had finished
making and fitting the threedividers (see next page).
F
Transfer linesaround molding
Layout
block Side
assembly dadoes
NOTE: Layout block should match thicknessof dividers ( ")#/4
FRONT
MOLDING
29
#/4
#/4
#/4#/4
#/8
#/4
#/8
#/8
5 !/4
5 !/4
F
F Side panel
Side panel
NOTE: Size notches infront molding to fit divider
stock (see following page)
20°
18°
1!/16
1#/4
#/8
!/4
#/8TOP
SECTION
VIEW
F
Side pane
a.
END
VIEW
F#/8
#/4" corebox bit
Hold moldingtight against fence
Groove iscut after routing
cove
#/8
a.
FRONT
MOLDING
#/8
#/8
#/4#/4
#/4
5 !/4
FRONT VIEW
F
Side panel
b.
F
Hold molding
tight against fence
Aux.fence
SIDE SECTIONVIEW
F Align depthof notch with
bottom of cove
Aux.fence
a.
How-To: Fit the Front Molding
8/16/2019 Curved Front Wall Cabinet
6/145 WoodsmithPlans.com WS15632 ©2014 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reserved.
TOP
DIVIDER
MIDDLE
DIVIDER
BOTTOM DIVIDER
G
G
G
Drill and countersink for #6 x 1 " Fh woodscrew !/4
NOTE: Dividers are madefrom " hardwood #/4
NOTE: Cut notches in divider before cutting curved profile
1910
7 %/8
1!/21
6 7
How-To: Notches GDIVIDER
Attach tall auxiliary fence
to miter gauge
G
DIVIDER
Waste Cuts. Remove the bulk of the waste
from the notch area by making a series of cuts,
breaking off the material in between the kerfs.
Clean-Up Cut. A final pass cleans up
the end of the notch. Then a chisel
can be used for the final trimming.
G
Break off wastematerial to
sneak up onnotch width
Notch
width
a.
a.
With the sides of the cabinet com-
plete, you can begin to make thehorizontal pieces that connect them
— the dividers and the top and bot-tom panels. I started by making the
three dividers. As you can see in thedrawing above, these are the pieces
that actually fit between the two
sides of the case. Later, the wholecase assembly gets sandwiched
between a top and bottom panel.
DIVIDERS. The dividers start out as
three identical, rectangular blanks.After sizing the blanks, you can cut
tongues on the ends of each one to
fit in the dadoes you cut earlier inthe side panels (detail ‘a’).
In order to allow the dividers to fitaround the front molding, the front
corners of each divider are notched,as shown in detail ‘b.’ You can cutthese notches by nibbling away the
bulk of the waste on the table saw just like you see in the How-To box
below. But in order to get a precisefit, I pared away the remainingwaste with a chisel. Check the fit
with the side panel and front edgingas you go along.
The goal here is for the dividersto slide into the dadoes and then
into the notches you cut earlier onthe front molding, just as you seein detail ‘b’ and in the photo below
You’ll want to make the notches just
{ Notches in the front corners of the
dividers allow them to fit around the
molding at the front of the case.
fitting theDIVIDERS , TOP , & BOTTOM
G
Divider isnotched tofit around
front molding
Front molding
b.
FRONT VIEW
G
G
#/8
#/8
!/4
#/4
#/4
Side panel
Side panel
a.
G
Side panel rabbet
Back edge of divider panel is flush with
bottomof rabbet
c.
8/16/2019 Curved Front Wall Cabinet
7/146 WoodsmithPlans.com WS15632 ©2014 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reserved.
Divider
blank
"hardboard template
(28" radius)
!/4
Top and bottom"-hardboard template
!/4
Top/bottomblank Layout profile
on blank
H
Waste
Lay Out Curve. Using a hardboard tem-
plate, lay out the curve along the front
of each divider and cut it to shape.
Top & Bottom Panels. After laying out
the profile (upper drawing) drill starter
holes before cutting the curve to shape.
Rout Edges. To complete the top and b
tom panels, rout a Roman ogee pro
along the front and sides of both pan
Curved Profiles
deep enough so that when thedivider slides into place, the back
edge ends up flush with the bottomof the rabbets along the back of theside panels (detail ‘c’ on next page).
If this sounds a little confusing, itwill become clear once you have the
actual pieces in front of you.
Once you’ve notched out all threehorizontal dividers, you can lay out
the curved profile along the frontedge of each one. The ends of the
curve should match up with thecorner of the front molding, (see
detail ‘a’). To make this easier, I cre-ated a hardboard template, as shownin detail ‘c’. (Hang on to this tem-
plate. You’ll need it later for makingthe doors and drawer.)
After cutting the curves and sand-ing them smooth, you can glue up
the side panels, front edge moldings,and top and bottom dividers. (Leavethe middle divider out for now
so you’ll have room to attach the bottom panel later.)
TOP & BOTTOM PANELS. The last step tocomplete the case is to add a top and
bottom panel. The blanks for thesepanels are glued up out of solid
wood. Then after cutting the blanksto size, I laid out the profile, usinganother hardboard template (see
detail ‘c’ at right and box below).This profile matches the shape of the
front edge molding and the curveof the dividers.
After cutting the profiles onthe band saw and sanding them
smooth, all that’s left to completethe top and bottom panels is to rout
an ogee along the front and sideedges, just as you see in the finaldrawing in the box below.
The top and bottom panels are
simply screwed to the case frominside the cabinet. Once they’re
securely in place, you can go aheadand glue the center divider into thecase by sliding it in place from the
back of the cabinet.
FRONT
VIEW
H
#/4
#/4
!/4
!/4" radius
Case
side
b.
SIDE SECTION VIEW
H!/4" Romanogee bit
a.
TOP SECTION VIEW
G
H
Curved profile starts at corner
of molding
28"radius
a.
H
H
BOTTOM
TOP
11!/4
9!/4 21!/2
#6 x 1 " Fh
woodscrews
!/4
Install middle
divider after
bottom is attached 28"radius of divider and
drawer front starts at
corner of front molding cove
DIVIDER ANDDRAWER
TEMPLATE(28" RADIUS)
TOP ANDBOTTOM
TEMPLATE(28 " RADIUS)!/2
28 "RADIUS
&/8
2#/8
21
#/8"radius
ENLARGE 400%
c.
8/16/2019 Curved Front Wall Cabinet
8/14
constructing the DOORS
TOP SECTION
VIEW
II
&/8 &/8
!/16
a.
II
&/16 Ball catch
located "from front of divider
&/8 Edge of strike located
" fromedge of door
#/4
Front of divider
c.
TOP SECTION VIEW
IFront molding
!/8"-deep
mortise
!/16 "gap
b.
Now that you have the case com-
plete, you’re ready to start on themost interesting part of this project
— making the curved doors.These doors are called “coo-
pered” doors. A cooper is a personwho makes barrels. And coopereddoors get their name from the fact
that they’re made up of individual
staves — like a barrel. And becausethe edges of the staves are beveled
slightly, they form a gradual curvewhen they are clamped together.
Although this cabinet has twodoors, I decided to glue up one wide
blank and cut the doors apart after
doing all the shaping first. This way,
you can be sure that the profile of both doors is consistent.
The door blank is glued up outof six individual staves cut from7/8"-thick stock. The trickiest partof making the doors is probablygluing up the blank. Because of the
curved shape of the doors, clamp-ing them up is a challenge. So I
made a simple jig (see box at left).The jig has a couple of forms that
match the curve of the doors.The staves are simply placed in
the forms and then wedges areused to force them together whilethe glue dries.
After the blank is glued up, youcan shape the curved surface and
cut the doors to size. (See next pagefor more on how this is done).
The last steps to complete the
doors is to mount them to the caseand add the brass door knobs and
ball catches, like you see in details‘b’ and ‘c’ above.
Base
Form
Form
NOTE: Jig forms are madefrom plywood, base
is " hardboard #/4"
!/4
5
24 22
28" radius
1!/2
3#/8
71°
To glue up the blank for
the coopered doors, I madethis assembly jig. It’s noth-
ing more than a base and a
pair of plywood forms. Each
form has a curve cut along
the top edge to match the
desired curve of the doors.
The forms “cradle” the
staves while small wedges
apply the necessary clamp-
ing pressure to the panel
until the glue dries.
Shop Tip: Stave Clamping Jig
7 WoodsmithPlans.com WS15632 ©2014 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reserved.
8/16/2019 Curved Front Wall Cabinet
9/14
The coopered doors on this cabinetmay look challenging, but they’re
really not that difficult to build.The trick is in carefully fitting
the staves that make up the door blank so that the glue joints end up
nearly invisible.I started by beveling the mating
edges of the staves at about 3°. I say
“about” because you may have tofine tune the angle just a bit. The
goal is for the staves to fit togethertightly while they are sitting in the
jig. (I found it helpful to number the
staves after fitting them.)After gluing the staves together in
the jig (see previous page), you can begin smoothing out the curve on
the front of the blank. Start by usingyour template to lay out a 28"-radiuscurve on both ends of the blank.
Then you can remove the peaks onthe outer face of the blank with a
block plane (Fig. 2). Finally, a curvedsanding block and some sandpaper
can be used for the final smoothing.Don’t worry about the inside face ofthe door — just scrape off any glue.
The next step is to square up theends of the blank and cut it to length
to match the height of the openingin the cabinet (allowing for a 1/16"
gap at the top and bottom of thedoors). Once this is done, you can
cut the door blank in half to cre-ate the two doors. I taped a couple
of long, beveled strips of wood tomy table saw to help support the
blank and keep it from rocking
(Figs. 4 and 5).After trimming the outer edge of
each door so they fit the openingin the cabinet, you can rout a covealong the front, inner side edge of
each door, as shown in Fig. 6. Thefinal step is to cut the mortises for
the hinges. Take a look at Fig. 7 atright to see how I did this.
How-To:Coopered Door
Technique I
I
Eliminate gapsat beveled edges
3
3
3° bevel
3° bevel Form
WedgeDOOR STAVE
&/8
Draw radius profileon end of blank
Waste
Block plane
Sled
Attach sled to miter gauge
Door blank
Waste
Waste
Tilt blade 18°
Door
Wedge strips
Tight Fit is Best. Fine tune the bevel
angle on the staves until they fit
together without any visible gaps.
Rout Coves. A decorative cove is routed
along the inside edge of each door to
match the front molding of the case.
Cut in Half. To create the two doors, cut the blank
in half down the center joint line. Wedge strips
taped to the saw help stabilize the blank.
Wedge strip
Cut to Width. With your saw blad
tilted 18°, trim the outer edge o
each door to fit the cabinet.
Cut Hinge Mortises. To cut the mortise
for the hinges, a tall auxiliary fence wit
a spacer is attached to the miter gauge
Plane Off Peaks. After laying out the radi-
us profile on the ends of the blank, plane
off the “peaks” where the staves meet.
Cut to Length. A simple plywood cut-of
sled attached to the miter gauge allow
you to trim the ends of the blank.
END VIEW
#/4"corebox bit
!/4
a.
Tall aux.fence
Spacer
!/16
a.
{ Wedges are used to
hold the staves togetherin the jig while the glue dries.
1
2
4
6 7
5
3
8 WoodsmithPlans.com WS15632 ©2014 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reserved.
8/16/2019 Curved Front Wall Cabinet
10/149 WoodsmithPlans.com WS15632 ©2014 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reserved.
SIDE SECTION VIEW
N
M
K
J
Guide acts as stop behind drawer front
Guide sits flush withback of bottom divider
Bottomdivider
Brad
!/4 !/16
#/8
!/4
a.
TOP SECTION VIEW
L
J
Front molding
!/16
#/8
b.
FRONT SECTION VIEW
N
M
L
!/4
!/4
!/4
c.
Shop Tip: Installing the Drawer Guides
Carpet tapeDrawer bottom
Guide is tight against back of drawer front
DRAWER GUIDE
NOTE: Use carpet tape sparingly
N
N
N
Add bead of glue
to guides
N
Position drawer in opening
Separate drawer and guides
after glue dries
DRAWER
GUIDE
Leave small gap
Drawer side
N
a.
Tape Guides to Drawer. Tape the drawer guides in
place to the bottom of the drawer with a couple of
small pieces of carpet tape.
Add Glue. Now run a
bead of glue along the
bottom of each guide.
Position Drawer. Place the drawer in the
opening. After the glue dries, hit the back
of the drawer to separate from the guides.
N
M
L
L
K
J
1 -dia.brass knob
"
DRAWER
BACK
DRAWER
SIDE
DRAWER
SIDE
DRAWER
BOTTOM
!/2 !/4"-wide x "-deepdado for back
DRAWER
FRONT
NOTE: Back and sides are made from" hardwood, bottom is made
from " hardwood, and front ismade from 1 " hardwood
!/2!/4
#/4
NOTE: Drawer front has 28" radius
8 !/4
4#/8
7 %/8
4#/8
3&/8
!/2
15 !/4
16 (approx.)
&/8
15 !/4
DRAWER GUIDES
( " x 1" - 7 ")%/16 #!/32
making the DRAWERTo match the curved profile of the
doors, the front of the drawer iscurved as well. But I used a differ-
ent method here. Instead of staves,the drawer front is cut out of a thick
block of solid wood. Before cutting
the drawer front to shape, however,I cut all the drawer joinery.
JOINERY. The front of the draweris joined to the sides with sliding
dovetail joints. (For more on howI did this, see page 11.) But at the
back of the drawer, I used a differ-
ent joint. The back is held in dadoesthat are cut on the inside face of
the drawer sides. And since the back will rest on top of the drawer
bottom (detail ‘a’), it’s 1/2" narrower
than the drawer sides.DRAWER BOTTOM. The drawer bot-
tom is held in a groove cut in thedrawer sides and drawer front. Butsince the bottom is glued up out of
solid wood, I wanted to make sureit had some room to expand with
changes in humidity. To allow forthis, I made the groove in the drawer
front a little deeper (detail ‘a’).Before assembling the drawer,
I laid out the 28"-radius curve on
the edge of the drawer front andcut it to shape on the band saw.
Then I mitered the ends of thedrawer front to match the angle of
the front molding on the case, as
you see in detail ‘b.’GUIDES. After the drawer is glued
up, you can add the drawer guides.Apart from their main function ofguiding the drawer, the guides
serve a couple of other purposes.First, they raise the drawer up
slightly so that it doesn’t rub on the bottom of the case (detail ‘c’). And
second, they act as stops.The guides are just a couple of
thin strips of wood, so making
them is a piece of cake. The trick ispositioning them inside the drawer
opening. For more on how I did this,see the box below.
8/16/2019 Curved Front Wall Cabinet
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adding the
BACK , SHELF ,
AND CLEATAt this point, the difficult work is
behind you. All that remains now isto add the back and the shelf. And
there’s nothing complicated here — just some basic woodworking.
BACK. Like the rest of the cabinet,the back is made out of solid wood.But instead of one solid, glued-up
panel, I made the back in pieces, asyou can see in the drawing at right.
There are a couple of back panelsthat fit in between a pair of stiles and
a center divider. Tongue and groove joints allow the panels to expandand contract with seasonal changes
in humidity (detail ‘a’).SHELF. The shelf couldn’t be much
simpler. It’s just a solid wood panelthat’s cut to fit inside the case. Like
the dividers, the front edge of theshelf is shaped to match the curvedprofile of the front of the case.
But if you take a look at detail ‘b’
above, you’ll see that the curve flat-tens out at each end of the shelf.
FINISH. Before you can hang thecabinet, you’ll need to apply a fin-ish. To even out the color of the
mahogany, I stained my cabinet
with Bartley’s Golden Oak gel stain.Then I rubbed on a coat of wiping
varnish followed by three coats ofa water-based finish.
CLEAT. When it came time to hangthe cabinet, I thought about drill-ing a couple of mounting holes in
the back of the cabinet and screw-ing it directly to the wall. But if you
ever wanted to move the cabinetto a different wall, chances are that
the holes you drilled in the back ofthe cabinet wouldn’t line up withwall studs at the new location. After
moving the cabinet once or twice,the back would start to look like a
piece of Swiss cheese.So instead, I made a mounting
cleat for the inside of the cabinet (see
box at left). The cleat isn’t glued inplace, so you can simply replace it
with a new one if you ever want tomove the cabinet.
R
Q
P
P
O
O
BACK SLAT
BACK
PANEL
SHELF BACK
PANEL
BACK CENTER SLAT
#/8
Drill and countersink for #6 x 1 " Fhwoodscrews
!/4
NOTE: Shmade fr8 " x 1
"-hardw
b
#/4 #/4
NOTE: Back panels and back slats are made
from "-thick hardwood !/2#/8
#/8
!/4
Shelf pin
7 !/4
7 !/4
2
1!/2
7 #/8
5 %/8
29
TOP SECTION VIEW
Q
P
O BACK PANEL
!/4
2 !/4 1!/2!/8
!/16 "radius
Back sets in
rabbet
a. TOPSECTION
VIEW
R SHELF
!#/16
7 fromback edgeof shelf
#/8"
28"front-of-shelf radius
Shelf pin
b.
S
Cleat
is cut to
fit between
cabinet sides
#8 x 3"Fh woodscrews
3CLEAT
S
Wall stud
Cabinet back
Top divider
!/2
1#/4
Add the Cleat. The cleat is cut to fit
between the cabinet sides. By not glu-
ing it, you can easily replace it as needed.
Hang It Up. Screws are
driven through the cleat
and into the wall studs.
How-To: Hang it Up
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8/16/2019 Curved Front Wall Cabinet
12/14
To join the drawer front to the sides
of the drawer on the curved-frontcabinet, I used a sliding dovetail
joint (see photo). Although it maylook complicated, all you need to
make this joint is a router table anda 1/2" dovetail bit.
I started by routing the dovetail
slots in the blank for the drawerfront. There’s not much to this, but
there are a few things to point out.First, when it comes to positioning
the dovetail slots, you want to payattention to the distance between the two slots.
And since the dovetail slot isstopped, I drew a line on the top
of my router table to let me knowwhen to stop routing (see StepOne). Finally, I used a push block
to help stabilize the workpiece asI pushed it into the bit.
The dovetail slot on the oppositeend of the drawer front is routed
in a similar fashion. The only dif-ference is that you have to rout theslot from the opposite direction,
as you can see in Step Two. Thismeans that you’ll have to draw a
new stop line on the top of yourrouter table.
To rout the other half of the slid-ing dovetail joint on the drawersides, you should leave your router
bit at the same height. But you will
have to move the fence over so thatonly a portion of the bit is exposed(see Step Three). Then, just make apass on each face of the drawer side
to create the dovetail.To finish up the dovetail, trim
back the top end on the routertable, as shown in Step Four. Then
round off the end of the dovetailwith a chisel to match the end of thedovetail slot in the drawer front (see
right detail in Step Four).
dovetailed
DRAWER
FRONT
STEP ONE
STEP TWO
STEP FOUR
STEP THREE
11 WoodsmithPlans.com WS15632 ©2014 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reserved.
8/16/2019 Curved Front Wall Cabinet
13/1412 WoodsmithPlans.com WS15632 ©2014 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reserved.
Curved-Front Wall Cabinet
A Top Rails (2) #/4 x 2!/2 - 5#/4
B Bottom Rails (2) #/4 x 7 - 5#/4
C Front Stiles (2) #/4 x 1%/8 - 29
D Rear Stiles (2) #/4 x 2 - 29
E Side Panels (2) #/4 x 5%/8 - 20!/2
F 1x1)2(gnidloMtnorF #/4 - 29
G Dividers (3) #/4 x 10 - 19 rgh.
H Top/Bottom Panels (2) #/4 x 11 - 21!/2
I Door Staves (6) &/8 x 3 - 24 rgh.
J Drawer Front (1) 1#/4 x 4#/8 - 17!/2 rgh.
K Drawer Back (1) !/2 x 3&/8 - 15!/4
L Drawer Sides (2) !/2 x 4#/8 - 8!/4
M Drawer Bottom (1) !/4 x 7%/8 - 15!/4
N Drawer Guides (2) %/16 x 1 -
O Back Panel (2) !/2 x 7#/
P Back Stiles (2) !/2 x 2
Q Back Center Divider (1) !/2 x 1!/
R Shelf (1) #/4 x 9 - 18#
S Hanging Cleat (1) !/2 x 1#/4
• (31) #6 x 1!/4” Fh Woodscrews• (4) !/4" Spoon-style Shelf Pins• (2) #/4"-dia. Antique Brass Knobs• (1) 1 -dia. Antique Brass Knob• (1 pr.) 1!/2" Antique Brass Wrap-Around Hinges w/Screw• (2) 1#/4" Brass Ball Catches
Materials, Supplies, & Cutting Diagram
8/16/2019 Curved Front Wall Cabinet
14/14
Woodsmith Store800-444-7527
Rockler800-279-4441rockler.com
General Finishes800-783-6050
generalfinishes.com
MAILORDER
SOURCES
Project Sources
WALL CABINET
Building the curved-front wall
cabinet will be a challenge,
but installing the few hard-
ware items won’t add much
to the job. Everything I usedcame from Rockler . You’ll
need two pair of antique brass
partial wrap-around hinges
(#26906), two brass ball
catches (#28613), and three
antique brass knobs — two3 / 4"-dia. (#67587) for the doors,
and one 1"-dia. (#68585) for
the drawer. The cabinet was
finished with a couple coats
of lacquer.