Cultural Landscape & Visual Context Review...Cultural Landscape & Visual Context Review of the Lowes Creek Maryland Precinct SEPTEMBER 2018 ABOVE A view across Maryland’s southeastern

Cultural Landscape & Visual Context Review of the

Lowes Creek Maryland Precinct

SEPTEMBER 2018

ABOVE A view across Maryland’s southeastern paddocks past remnants of a 19th century plantation (in the foreground) to the 19th century engine shed and pond (middleground). The large c. 1960 dam lies beyond. BELOW One of the substantial estate gates leading to the homestead: this particular one being associated with the c. 1870s southern gate lodge.

GEOFFREY BRITTON ENVIRONMENTAL DESIGN & HERITAGE CONSULTANT ABN 75 869 266 782

LOWES CREEK MARYLAND PRECINCT CULTURAL LANDSCAPE & VISUAL CONTEXT REVIEW September 2018

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Contents 1 Introduct ion 1 .1 Background 1.2 European Orig ins of the Estates 1 .3 Planning Context (South West Growth Centre) 1 .4 Heritage L ist ings/Recognit ion 1 .5 Previous Studies 1 .6 Approach 1 .7 Authorship and Acknowledgements

2 Review of Cultura l Landscape Features

2 .1 The Mary land Knol l and Ridgel ine 2 .2 Layout – Entry Drives , Farm Roads

2.2.1 The Northern Road 2.2.2 Southern Entry Drive 2.2.3 Northern Entry Drive 2.2.4 Maryland Homestead Inner Carriage Drives 2.2.5 Home Farm Estate Road 2.2.6 Maryland Homestead Lower Estate Road 2.2.7 Access to Former ‘Entry Cottage’ 2 .3 Key Plant ings 2 .4 Maryland Homestead Grounds

2.4.1 Vineyard Areas 2.4.2 Homestead Pleasure Grounds 2.4.3 Homestead Orchard, Kitchen Garden & Picking Garden 2 .5 Maryland ‘Back of House’ Areas 2 .6 Periphera l Estate Features

2.6.1 Former Southern Drive Plantations 2.6.2 Eastern Farm Dam with Shed and Plantation 2.6.3 Former Eastern Creekline Bridge 2 .7 Home Farm 2.8 Mary land’s & Bir l ing ’s Estate Spaces

2.8.1 Eastern & Northern Flats 2.8.2 Maryland’s Western Flats 2.8.3 Birling’s Western Hills 2 .9 Bir l ing 1812 S ite 2 .10 Old Bir l ing Drive Remnant 2 .11 Bir l ing 1937 S ite

3 Visual Context

3 .1 Maryland

3.1.1 Key Views to Maryland Homestead 3.1.2 Key Views from Maryland Homestead 3.1.3 Key Sequential Views within the Maryland Estate


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3 .2 Bir l ing

3.2.1 Key Views to the Birling 1812 Site 3.2.2 Key Views from the Birling 1812 Site 3.2.3 Key Views to the Birling 1937 Site 3.2.4 Key Views from the Birling 1937 Site 4 Considerat ion of Cultura l S ign i f icance

4 .1 Assess ing the S ign i f icance of the LCM Precinct Landscape Elements 4 .2 Statement of S ign i f icance 4 .3 Grading of S ign i f icance

5 Recommendat ions and Mit igatory Measures 5 .1 Recommendat ions 5 .2 Mit igat ion of Heritage Impact

5.2.1 Reconciling Urban Planning with Heritage Conservation 5.2.2 Mitigatory Measures Appendix A Photographic Survey of LCM Precinct Cultura l Landscape E lements Appendix B 1830s Par ish Map


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Abbreviat ions Abbreviations used in this report: CMP Conservation management plan cv. (cvv.) Cultivar (cultivars)(horticultural botanical references) DPE Department of Planning and Environment EPA Act Environmental Planning and Assessment Act (1979, NSW)

ICOMOS International Council on Monuments and Sites (as in Australia ICOMOS)

ILP Indicative Layout Plan LCM Lowes Creek Maryland (planning precinct) LEP Local Environmental Plan LGA Local Government Area NSW New South Wales OEH Office of Environment and Heritage (NSW) RMS Roads and Maritime Services SEPP State Environmental Planning Policy SHR State Heritage Register sp. (spp.) Species (plural in parentheses)(botanical references) subsp. Sub species (botanical reference)


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1 Introduction

1 .1 Background

In early 2018, after undertaking a technical report gap analysis, the Department of Planning and Environment (DPE) determined that an independent European cultural landscape and visual context review was necessary with respect to the former Colonial agricultural estates comprising the Lowes Creek Maryland (LCM) Precinct. While the visual context was considered to some extent in recent heritage studies undertaken for the LCM Precinct the main emphasis was for buildings and structures as well as site archaeology (historical and Aboriginal). Specific European cultural landscape elements such as historic grounds elements and layout, plantations and major structural plantings were not covered. The purpose of the present study was to address this gap in order to help inform the current indicative urban planning process prior to resolving an Indicative Layout Plan and planning proposal ready for public exhibition.

Geoffrey Britton was subsequently commissioned by DPE to undertake the cultural landscape and visual context review of the proposed Lowes Creek Maryland Precinct (F igure 1).

1 .2 European Orig ins of the Prec inct

Within the Lowes Creek Maryland Precinct are the remnants of two historic agricultural estates with origins in British land grants from the 1810s under Governor Lachlan Macquarie. South of Lowes Creek is the western half of the former Nonorrah estate of engineer and grazier John Dickson (1774-1843) that later became Maryland under the next owner, and fellow engineer and philanthropist, Thomas Barker (1799-1875), while to the north of Lowes Creek is the remnant Birling estate of local magistrate Robert Lowe (1783-1832)(F igure 4). Important estate components of both these early grant areas remain including early buildings and other structures, archaeological resources (both Aboriginal and European), plantings, layout, views and picturesque pasturelands (see cover photograph and Appendix A). 1 .3 P lanning Context (South West Growth Centre) Following the designation by DPE of these two remnant estates as future components of the broader South West Growth Centre Structure Plan (F igure 2), the then NSW Minister for Planning entered into a contractual agreement (2014/6825 Lowes Creek and Maryland Parts Precinct Planning Agreement 1) with the current owners and developers to rezone the Precinct from rural to urban. The planning agreement was authorised under Division 6, Part 4 of the

Environmental Planning and Assessment (EPA) Act 1979 while the State Environmental Planning Policy (Sydney Region Growth Centre) 2006 will give effect to the land use controls for the precinct. 1 .4 Previous Cultura l Her itage Studies The emphasis of this study is on European cultural landscape heritage and does not include a review of known and potential sites of Aboriginal cultural landscape heritage. The latter aspect of the Precinct has been reviewed by Extent Heritage Pty Ltd where various findings and recommendations are described in a report of December 2017.1 The most recent European cultural heritage studies for the LCM Precinct include a February 2017 Conservation Management Plan (CMP) for both Maryland and Birling by Tropman & Tropman Architects; a September 2016 Historical Archaeological Assessment report of both former estates by Casey & Lowe; and a November 2017 CMP (Significance and Policies) for both former estates by Hector Abrahams Architects.

1 Extent Heritage, Lowes Creek and Maryland Part Precinct: Aboriginal Cultural Heritage Assessment Report, December

2017


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Figure 1 Location plan showing the study area for this report including the remnant estates of Maryland

and Birling – south and north of Lowes Creek respectively. (Figure courtesy of Casey & Lowe, 2016)

F igure 2 South West Growth Centre Structure Plan showing the study area within the broader regional

planning context. (Figure courtesy of DPE website, 2018)

B ir l ing

Mary land


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Responding to the findings of these heritage studies, the Heritage Division of the Office of Environment and Heritage (OEH) proposed a heritage curtilage for the Maryland estate that covers the elevated land (on which the main homestead, outbuildings and former winery are located), the Home Farm (with remnant dairy complex) and view lines to and from the former northeastern gatehouse. Additional curtilage areas are proposed to cover the two historic Birling homestead sites. The OEH’s total heritage curtilage is shown on the Indicative Layout Plan (ILP) for the Precinct.

In 2000, Maryland was included in a broad survey of Colonial (pre-1860) cultural landscapes within the Cumberland Plain and adjacent areas by Colleen Morris and Geoffrey Britton on behalf of the National Trust of NSW (Australia) for the then Heritage Office.2 One of the findings of this study was that the whole cultural landscape (including buildings and archaeology) qualified for listing on the State Heritage Register (SHR) and should be listed as soon as possible.

All of these studies are independently consistent in their conclusions about the importance of the former Maryland estate and its ability to demonstrate its qualification for listing on the SHR. Where considered, the studies are similarly in agreement about the status of the former Birling estate core (including the 1812 homestead site) as also warranting consideration for SHR listing. Together with other early European estates remaining throughout the Camden LGA, these two remnant estates make up a highly significant Colonial-era cultural heritage resource of importance at a State, and probably even National, level.

The present study adds to the reviews of the visual context already included to some extent in the February 2017 CMP by Tropman & Tropman Architects and in the November 2017 CMP (Significance and Policies) by Hector Abrahams Architects.

1 .5 Her itage L ist ings/Recognit ion

In relation to past recognition of the heritage values of Maryland, there are a number of listings (statutory and non-statutory). The Camden Local Environmental Plan 2010 currently lists

Maryland as Item 1 (of Loca l environmental heritage) under Schedule 5 (F igure 3). However, in the context of the various heritage studies over recent years this listing should be revised as

Maryland is demonstrably of State environmental heritage significance. To this end, a SHR

nomination for Maryland was lodged with OEH in 2018 by the owners and is currently under consideration. A further two heritage listings of Maryland have been made by the former Australian Heritage Commission through the Register of the National Estate and the National Trust of NSW (Australia)(non-statutory). Remnant historical components of Birling – standing structures, layout and archaeological resources - are presently not recognised on either the LEP or the SHR though these too can be demonstrated to satisfy the nomination requirements. The 1812 Birling site is demonstrated to be of State heritage significance. The various 1930s components of the former estate (1937 homestead, garage and stables) justify listing as Local items of environmental heritage in the Camden LEP. 1 .6 Approach

As indicated in Sect ion 1 .1 above, the main aim of the study behind this report was to review and assess the various cultural landscape elements (such as historic grounds elements and layout, plantations and major structural plantings) that had not been covered in previous studies as well as review key visual connections. Of course a precursor to putting all of these landscape elements into a necessary context is through an understanding of the history of the estates and, particularly their development chronology. Detailed historical accounts of the Maryland and

2 Colleen Morris & Geoffrey Britton, Colonial Cultural Landscapes of the Cumberland Plain, on behalf of the National

Trust of Australia (NSW), Unpublished report in 3 volumes, 2000


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Figure 3 Heritage Map – Sheet HER_006 of the Camden Local Environmental Plan 2010 showing the listed Item 1 (Maryland) area under Schedule 5.

(https://www.legislation.nsw.gov.au/#/view/EPI/2010/514/maps)

Birling estates have already been included with the various recent heritage studies (mentioned in Sect ion 1 .4 above) and, in order to keep the present study as brief as possible, reference is made to the histories in the former studies. This study begins with a review of the various surviving European cultural landscape elements throughout the LCM Precinct followed by a consideration of their individual and collective significance before discussing relevant recommendations. 1 .7 Authorsh ip and Acknowledgements

Unless noted, all recent site photographs were taken in 2018 by Geoffrey Britton, who also authored this report. Acknowledgement is also given for the assistance of the following people:

Evelyn Ivinson, Manager, Land Release, Department of Planning and Environment Grace Macdonald, Senior Precinct Planner – Land Release, Department of Planning and Environment Stuart Read, Senior Heritage Operations Officer, Heritage Division, OEH Stephen Anders, Director, LFA (Pacific) Pty Ltd, urban design and planning consultants Shilpa Singh, Urban Designer, LFA (Pacific) Pty Ltd Dr Mary Casey, Principal, Casey & Lowe consultant archaeologists Louise McMahon, Strategic Planner, Camden Council Martin Cooper, Team Leader, Growth Areas, Camden Council Isaac Clayton, Formerly Heritage Advisor, Camden Council David Hazlett, Managing Director, Cameron Brae Group (Land owner and developer) Arnold Vitocco, Director, Macarthur Developments (Land owner and developer) Stephen McMahon, General Manager, Macarthur Developments


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Figure 4 The study area for this report superimposed over an 1840 grant map where basic descriptions of the landscape are included. Note that Maryland was neither owned by Thomas Barker, nor named by

him, at this time but was part of John Dickson’s 1816 grant Nonorrah. (SLNSW Z/M2 811.113/1840/1A. Figure courtesy of Casey & Lowe, 2017, p. 25)

F igure 5 Detail of a c. 1880 photograph of the old Birling homestead (1812) from its front entry drive looking roughly south to the Maryland knoll. This view is a very similar one to an 1843 painting of Birling by the artist Anne Dadswell (see F igure 6) where, again, the old homestead is depicted with the visually prominent knoll behind as a deliberately framed scenic backdrop. As it was through the 19th century, the Maryland knoll remains a conspicuous topographic and cultural feature within the present landscape. See

F igure 7 for the whole photograph. (SLNSW SPF/2528. Figure courtesy of Casey & Lowe, 2017, p. 29)


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F igure 6 An 1843 watercolour painting of the old Birling homestead (1812) and outbuilding group from its front entry drive looking roughly south to the Maryland knoll – at this stage without any formative development. The view, while somewhat naïve and out of scale, does provide an excellent record of the Birling estate core with its principal building, the homestead bungalow, and its immediate grounds fenced,

set out and well planted. (SLNSW SPF/2528. Figure courtesy of Casey & Lowe, 2017, p. 29)

F igure 7 The full view of the c. 1880 photograph of the old Birling homestead from which the detail at F igure 5 is taken. Both this image and the 1843 painting above provide an invaluable resource (combined with archaeological investigations) with which to reconstruct the basic farm core layout should this be determined to be an appropriate conservation action. The view also highlights, again, the visual

prominence of the Maryland knoll behind. (SLNSW SPF/2528. Figure courtesy of Casey & Lowe, 2017, p. 29)


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2 Review of Cultural Landscape Features The Lowes Creek Maryland Precinct is seen and understood as a largely open pastoral landscape mostly grazed by cattle with some horses. Within this cultural landscape are numerous vestiges from the 19th and early 20th centuries that include many substantial stone buildings and various timber buildings along with stone edges and paths as well as substantial timber entry gates and fencing. There are also some well-formed estate roads that are likely contemporary with the earlier buildings. At least one farm dam (to the east of the Maryland knoll) appears to be a 19th century introduction. Around the Maryland homestead there are numerous surviving plantings from the Barker family period of ownership (1850s to 1940). Collectively these surviving elements testify to the ways in which the Maryland estate was planned and functioned agriculturally.

The pictorial record from the 19th century indicates that there remained substantial tracts of locally indigenous woodland at least into the 1880s though maps from the 1840s also indicate that large areas had also been either cleared or were in the process of being cleared – especially between the Maryland knoll and The Northern Road and, in the case of the Birling estate, to the north of the original Birling homestead. Both the archival record and surviving physical evidence clearly demonstrate that the existing cultural landscape of the LCM Precinct is, to a large extent, a product of 19th century agricultural practice. Again in the case of Birling, much of the impetus of land clearing and establishing the early farm would have been through convict labour.

In the following discussion, each of these key cultural landscape elements within the LCM Precinct is considered in more detail. This is preparatory to a later consideration of the collective and relative significance of the landscape elements (Sect ion 4). 2 .1 The Mary land Knol l and Ridgel ine The landscape to the immediate west of The Northern Road is generally flat before more undulating topography (with some steeper slopes) is encountered further west. In between, a dramatic and distinctive rise about 1 kilometre from The Northern Road announces the Maryland knoll on which the homestead group is sited. The visually conspicuous nature of the knoll and its trailing ridgeline further south, is accentuated by the cluster of tall landmark plantings around the homestead as well as other vegetation (F igures 5 to 8). The density of this vegetation, contrasted with the generally cleared paddocks below, further accentuates the visual dominance of the homestead knoll and ridgeline within the estate landscape. From many vantage points within the LCM Precinct and beyond, the Maryland knoll with its homestead and 19th century signature plantings now serves as an important local reference point within the landscape. Revisiting the original rationale for locating the homestead group at this point within the estate, it was, of course, to provide the homestead with a commanding prospect of its rural domain. This largely remains the case.

F igure 8 A panoramic view of the Maryland knoll from the home farm illustrating the visual prominence of the topographic rise out of the relatively flat pasturelands surrounding it. Note how the mature coniferous plantings help emphasise the knoll as well as focus attention on the homestead group as the centre of the Maryland estate. Views between the homestead knoll and the home farm maintain a visual link for over 160 years.


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2 .2 Layout – Entry Drives , Farm Roads A potentially important aspect of early estate layout is by way of remnant fence alignments if not through its surviving early fabric (such as posts). Fences indicate paddocks, which indicate basic land use and farm functioning. However this is often difficult to establish in fact without having archival documentary evidence to corroborate what appears to be early layout. The earliest aerial photography may indeed record early fence lines but without other indications such as early estate plans it becomes a matter of conjecture as to whether they are actually early. Fence lines are often adjusted with changing emphases of land use, farm management and changes in ownership. In the case of Maryland, no 19th century estate plans are known, so the most likely early surviving layout of the estate is surmised to be defined by known functional areas such as the fenced lower edges of Maryland’s knoll slopes (also defined by an estate road) and its large pleasure grounds and functional gardens (where there was also early hedging).3 2 .2 .1 The Northern Road

The general alignment of The Northern Road appears to be an early accessway through John Dickson’s Nonorrah farm and eventually defined the eastern edge of Thomas Barker’s Maryland estate (see F igures 4 and 10). It is clearly indicated on an 1830s parish map (Appendix B) as a principal thoroughfare linking Sydney to southern districts and would have provided the basis of access to Robert Lowe’s Birling farm to the west, Dickson’s former Nonorrah homestead core to the east and, eventually to the Barker family’s Maryland farm to the west. The road is an important early line of access and is a signature component of these and other Colonial estates such as Denbigh and Orielton further south. Current road widening by the RMS will certainly affect the character and scale of the road but its general location and north-south alignment would be preserved. By virtue of the extent of widening, the current road works would also affect the historic relationship of The Northern Road with Maryland’s former northeastern gate lodge (and its integral entry gates) and, to some extent, with the Maryland homestead core. While John Dickson’s Nonorrah homestead core is known to have been located beyond The Northern Road well to the east, there would likely have been some farm access tracks into his farm areas to the west of The Northern Road and these may have formed the basis of carriage drives for Thomas Barker’s Maryland estate. However this is purely conjectural and would be very difficult to establish without documentary or archaeological evidence.

F igure 9 Panoramic view of the planted Maryland knoll (behind the former engine shed with rusted roof in the centre of the photograph) and its trailing ridgeline to the south. This prospect approximates similar views over the past 140 years or more where the experience of moving through the estate, while approaching the homestead, was finely calculated. What is particularly missing from this serial experience today is the enclosure provided by substantial plantations along the side of the entry drive that framed or withheld views along the way. Some evidence of these former plantations survives along the southern drive.

3 The earliest such plan is one from about 1907 showing the general fencing layout of the Maryland home farm

(SRNSW Primary Application Packet PA 14468 shown as Figure 2.8 in the Casey & Lowe report of 2016 p. 34) though it is difficult to reconcile this earlier layout with that known today.


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Figure 10 A frame from the 1947 aerial photography showing parts of the Maryland and Birling estates. The Maryland homestead group is at the lower left corner (arrow) while the 1812 Birling site is circled.

The 1937 Birling homestead is marked with a star. (PDF courtesy of Casey & Lowe)

2 .2 .2 Southern Entry Drive

Both the c. 1870s gate lodges (dated according to the Tropman and Tropman assessment) associated with the c. 1850s Maryland homestead indicate that approach drives from The Northern Road were established early in the planning and development of the Maryland estate. This is further confirmed with the early dating (c. 1860s, again according to the Tropman and Tropman assessment) of the ‘former entry’ cottage along the ridge to the south of the Maryland homestead. Without specific archaeological investigation it is difficult to determine if the existing southern entry drive was predated by an earlier drive that passed by this c. 1860s structure. Nevertheless, the existing southern drive is certainly a 19th century line of access to the homestead as the remnants of several later 19th century plantations (see Sect ion 2 .6 .1 below) along its route attest to its use at least to this period. (The plantations – most clearly evident in the 1947 aerial photography [F igure 10] – now occur along the drive after it crosses the eastern creek and where it inscribes a broad arc close to the main Maryland ridgeline before arriving at the homestead via the southern gate lodge.) The existing southern entry drive is therefore an important component of Maryland’s 19th century estate layout linking the principal Northern Road access with the homestead via its early ‘inner’ gate lodge.

The Northern Road


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2 .2 .3 Northern Entry Drive The northeastern gate lodge (c. 1870s) also indicates that an early access was formed off The Northern Road to approach and link with the homestead. The exact route of the drive is now more difficult to determine without exploratory archaeological investigation. The 1947 aerial photography clearly shows an initial direct east-west alignment (with substantial woodland trees lining it) from the northeastern gate lodge towards the home farm before it diverges into two separate lines of access – one to the home farm and the other continuing on to the homestead. The dating of the latter road is most uncertain as it appears to be built over earlier parallel cultivation patterns (clearly indicating a later road layout). It is also unlikely that the earliest entry drive would have meandered through the home farm (as shown in the 1947 photography) before pointing to the homestead. At some point the layout of the earlier northern entry drive has been lost between the known east-west section and the present entry gates to the ‘inner’ homestead avenue. (A 1929 army topographical map [F igure 11] shows a more direct line of access to the homestead from the east-west section of the drive and such an approach would seem more likely.) Since the late 20th century, even the clear east-west section of the northern entry drive became disused for various reasons and is now largely undiscernible though earlier formations may remain.

F igure 11 1929 topographical map. (Figure courtesy of Casey & Lowe)

2 .2 .4 Mary land Homestead Inner Carr iage Drives An important unifying feature of the Maryland estate is its use of substantial timber gate posts and gates to define entry points – either to the estate from The Northern Road or into the ‘inner’ estate (homestead core). The latter entry gate ensembles also bracket the ‘inner’ drives around the homestead and its outbuilding groups. The northern entry drive culminates in the direct ascent to the knoll summit and homestead via a grand avenue. At this point, the entry

Northern and southern entry drives to Maryland homestead shown

Ear ly entry dr ive to old Bir l ing homestead


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drive is lined and defined by stone guttering. After passing across the front of the homestead, the inner drive then loops around the back of the homestead and outbuildings, past the winery buildings and meets the summit end of the southern entry drive. All of these summit drives are probably contemporary with the earliest buildings and are therefore a critical component of the Maryland estate layout. The drives remain substantially intact along with stone edgings and some drains (F igures 12 to 16). 2 .2 .5 Home Farm Estate Road

The presently well-formed short, straight (north-south) section of road linking the homestead with the home farm is likely also an early (1850s?) line of access within the Maryland estate. 2 .2 .6 Mary land Homestead Lower Estate Road

Just within the entry gate ensemble to the northeast of the homestead an estate drive is clearly shown in the archival aerial photography to diverge from the ascending avenue drive and proceed around the base of the knoll before arriving at the lower side of the stone winery store building behind and below the homestead group before heading south and looping around the southern gate lodge. This also appears to be an early estate road both defining the extent of the ‘inner’ homestead precinct or core as well as providing an insight into the functioning and management of the estate’s early agricultural enterprises. Although a small section of this early drive has been filled and built over in the 1960s for a large poultry shed, the remainder of the road is still clearly evident. A benched formation remains around the northern edge to the Maryland knoll along with old fence lines, parallel plantings of

Hoop Pine (Araucaria cunninghamii), Chinese Elm (Ulmus parvifolia) and locally indigenous

Kurrajongs (Brachychiton populneus) as well as a remnant 19th century gate. The remnant drive (and benching) is an important component of the Maryland estate layout (F igures 17 to 18). 2 .2 .7 Access to Former ‘Entry Cottage’

Given that the former ‘Entry Cottage’ along the ridge to the south of Maryland is assessed as being of mid-19th century origins, it is presumed that the access road along the contours in front of the cottage is contemporary with the cottage. This line of access links the cottage with the lower estate road (Sect ion 2 .1 .6 above) to the south of the southern gate lodge. The 1947 aerial photography shows that it did not link with the existing southern entry drive. The road continues to the south past the cottage towards the estate’s southern boundary with the earliest photography suggesting it may proceed further, along the ridge, in the direction of the Denbigh estate.4 Both the cottage and its access road must be regarded as important components of the Maryland estate (F igure 19).

4 The Maryland homestead is located on the northern extremity of a north-south orientated ridge system that

continues to, and envelopes, the even earlier (1810s-1820s) Denbigh farm group further to the south.


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Figure 12 Arrival at the Maryland knoll summit from the ascending avenue with the homestead in view.

F igure 13 View up the ascending drive, through the former pleasure grounds, with a glimpse of the homestead at the knoll summit. Note the raking stone gutter edging each side of the drive. Given the slope of the drive and its age, the road surface has held intact remarkably well.


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F igure 14 Junction of the upper carriage drives, with the left arm leading to the upper winery building and the right arm leading to the homestead. The large service garden is to the extreme right beyond the

Cape Leadwort (Plumbago auriculata) hedge. F igure 15 BELOW A view from the western side of the

knoll to the mid-19th century guest accommodation and later wing showing the encircling carriage drive.

F igure 16 The large, integrated entry gate ensemble to the south of the homestead with the Gothic southern gate lodge just visible beyond. The gatepost to the left leads to the lower winery building around the back of the lodge while the gate to the right leads to the homestead. A further gate entry to the right (out of the frame and now collapsed) leads to the large service garden and pleasure grounds.


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F igure 17 View looking along the formed bench of the lower estate drive that linked the home farm and winery building. The three Kurrajongs to the upper (left) side of the drive are remnants of more extensive plantings that previously lined the access way.

F igure 18 A view of the same drive further to the west where it commences a broad arc to the left (south) around the lower part of the knoll. Note the present star picket fence runs across the old drive’s bench formation.


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F igure 19 The former ‘Entry Cottage’ (with its commanding view) and its early access drive in front.

F igure 20 Detail view from the home farm of part of the Maryland knoll slopes showing faint traces of contoured vineyard trenching (arrowed). 2 .3 Key P lant ings Along with early buildings and other structures, early estate roads, edgings, steps and walls, early plantings also represent an important component of Colonial and Victorian estates. Such plantings were in response to two basic directives – mainly functional (windbreaks, live fences and produce plantings such as vineyards, orchards and kitchen gardens) or aesthetic (pleasure ground ornamental plantings, avenues and hedging) though in reality the distinction is somewhat blurred as avenues and hedge plantings may also have functional roles in sheltering as well as enclosing and defining. It is now becoming rarer to find surviving plantings from Colonial estates, but later 19th century plantings often survive on old pre-Victorian farms. In the case of Maryland, its formative phases of development were within the Victorian period and many plantings of the mid to later 19th century remain. These are described in more detail in the following sections along with other surviving landscape features. In this study, particular emphasis is given to plantings more likely to have a moderate or higher level of cultural significance. This will mainly capture older surviving plantings with more recent plantings being of lesser value (and readily replaced if necessary). The more valuable plantings are those likely to be associated with the earlier phases of estate development such as, in the


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case of Maryland, those introduced by Thomas Barker and the second generation of this family. Also in the case of Maryland, the estate core is now characterised by large, dense copses of

African Olive (Olea europaea subsp. cuspidata) comprising many trees and seedlings that are the

progeny of earlier plantings. (The species was used as a protective hedge for the large kitchen/ picking garden.) So while the later propagules are now a nuisance and should be removed, there are also older planted trees that are important to the estate. The question of managing these plantings should be a subject of inclusion in a conservation management plan. In the case of the first Birling estate, little appears to survive of its 19th century plantings though

the copse of Black Locusts (Robinia pseudoacacia) south of the 1937 stables may be a self-

propagated remnant of progenitor plantings. 2 .4 Maryland Homestead Grounds 2 .4 .1 Vineyard Areas

The exact extent of the once-famous Maryland vineyards is not known. Using documentary evidence, Casey & Lowe archaeologists have suggested these were mainly to the north of the homestead across the knoll slopes and into the flatter paddock beyond (totalling about 20 acres). When viewed from the home farm, the northern knoll slopes do appear to have a hint of terraces though this is not so evident when traversing the slopes directly (F igure 20). The 1947 aerial photography also shows some faint trace of parallel lines along the knoll slopes and, elsewhere between the knoll and the home farm, much more distinct parallel lines are apparent though the latter are more likely to be from general paddock cultivation especially where there is ‘cross-hatching’ with perpendicular lines of cultivation. Note too that concerted long-term attempts at growing vines at Maryland would have been

potentially frustrated by widespread outbreaks of Oidium tuckerii (a powdery mildew fungus)

that affected other famous vineyards in the region such as Camden Park (by the 1860s). The

even more calamitous outbreak of grape phylloxera (Daktulosphaira vitifoliae) from the 1870s saw the demise of most older vineyards throughout the Camden and Campbelltown areas. Assuming the demise of the Maryland vineyards by the late 19th century, there is almost half a century of later agricultural practice to factor in when reviewing the earliest photographic evidence of ground patterns. Without specific archaeological investigation or the discovery of pertinent archival documentation, it is not possible at this stage to confirm the exact location of the former vineyards but is assumed to be at least across parts of the northern slopes of the knoll. 2 .4 .2 Homestead Pleasure Grounds

The exact extent of the homestead pleasure grounds is not known though a combination of physical evidence and the 1947 aerial photography suggests it began in the east from the ‘inner’ northeastern homestead gate entry and enveloped the ascending carriage drive, with its avenue, at least to the summit. The pleasure grounds may have also extended further west across the upper northern slopes, in front of the homestead and the stone guesthouse, and around the upper western side of the knoll around to the winery building.5 Some of the plantings (of unknown species) shown in the 1947 photography have since been removed from the area immediately north of the homestead. Remnants of these earlier plantings include the large

Hoop Pine, Moreton Bay fig tree and a Carob Tree (Ceratonia siliqua) to the north of the older

homestead wing and a Peppercorn Tree (Schinus areira) further west.

5 The homestead’s classic northeastern building axis orientation has dictated much of the subsequent layout of spaces

and functional areas around it and the upper knoll.


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A concentration of the giant clumping succulent Mauritius Hemp (Furcraea foetida) occurs

around the homestead entry gate, which is a species that might be characteristically expected at an important entry point. The carriage drive avenue has a variety of tree species – Hoop Pine,

Bunya Pine (Araucaria bidwillii), Cypress Pine (Callitris sp.), Chinese Weeping Cypress (Cupressus funebris) and an (as yet) unidentified Pine (Pinus sp.).6 Some of these species have also self-

propagated around the drive. Most of the mature representatives of these species would have been planted in the 19th century and would certainly be associated with the Barker family

development of the Maryland grounds. A solitary Moreton Bay fig tree (Ficus macrophylla) also

appears about half way along the drive though it is not known if this was planted there or has self-propagated from elsewhere. Also near the lower end of the drive is a tangle of climbing

Dragon Fruit or Pitaya (Hylocereus undatus) that may not be old (probably from the Thomson

era). Groundcovers found along the drive include Spider lily (Chlorophytum comosum), Bowie’s

Wood-sorrel (Oxalis bowiei) – both typical of old gardens - and, remarkably, persistent patches

of the widespread locally indigenous Kangaroo Grass (Themeda triandra). An important feature of the ascending carriage drive is its defining edge drains – most visibly with raking stone edges and possibly brick gutters (these were mostly obscured by thick leaf litter). The presence of the drains either side of the drive indicates that the original form of the drive was of a crowned profile allowing run-off to be shed either side to prevent scouring in heavy rain. Over time, the drive’s central ridge has been lost and wheel ruts have formed such that parts of the drive are now vulnerable to increasing erosion. The formation of this drive and its edging with well-constructed drains along the entire length signals a substantial investment in this feature that delivered visitors and incumbents alike to the knoll summit where the homestead was suddenly and dramatically shown off to theatrical effect. Upon reaching the top of the homestead entry drive, the very tall signature avenue species diverge, extending in perpendicular ‘arms’ – one line following the drive back towards the

southern gate lodge featuring Bunya Pines, a large Lemon-scented gum (Corymbia citriodora) and

a large Norfolk Island Hibiscus (Lagunaria patersonii) and another line running along the upper knoll parallel with the homestead featuring Hoop and Bunya Pines. This latter line of tall trees in front of the main homestead elevation may seem strange in today’s aesthetic milieu, but in the 19th century the deliberate framing of distant scenic views was a desirable practice. A very similar arrangement existed at Gregory Blaxland’s Brush Farm in Eastwood where a line of

Norfolk Island Pines (Araucaria heterophylla) once framed distant views to the Parramatta River.

To the north and south of the main drive there are many self-propagated trees and seedlings of

Chinese Elm, African Olive, Pinus spp. and Callitris sp. The lower slopes of the pleasure grounds

south of the carriage drive contain remnant mature plantings of Chir Pine (Pinus roxburghii), Monterey Pine (P. radiata), the small-coned Pinus sp. found along the lower drive, Callitris sp.,

Hoop Pine and Bunya Pine.7 There is also some remnant Polygala sp. (possibly Polygala myrtifolia) – a hardy and potentially weedy shrub but a favourite in old gardens (F igure 21). Further up the slope, geometric embankments are encountered with a broad bench for the Thomson family’s mid-1940s tennis court where its high enclosing mesh fences and axial gates are still intact (F igure 22). The 1947 aerial photography also shows a track through the pleasure grounds from the lower homestead gateway and to the south of, and roughly parallel with, the main ascending carriage drive linking the service garden and the home farm. Some benching for this line of access remains.

6 Both the Callitris sp. (either C. columellaris or C. rhomboidea) and the Pinus sp. will need more detailed botanical

keying out to confirm the species in each case, though the latter pine may be Aleppo Pine (Pinus halepensis). 7 Pinus roxburghii is botanically very similar to the Canary Island Pine (Pinus canariensis) and further detailed keying out

is required to finally confirm which of the two is the large, long leaved, large-coned pine on site. Archival evidence indicates that Stone Pines (Pinus pinea) were also planted at Maryland, but any persistent presence was not immediately obvious owing to the overgrown nature of much of the eastern pleasure grounds.


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Directly associated with the homestead are its eastern lawn enclosed by Cape Leadwort

(Plumbago auriculata) which also runs in front of the homestead and groups of plantings across

the high embankments flanking the drives behind the homestead. The group of plantings to the immediate southeast of the homestead (between the mid-20th century swimming pool and the

eastern drive) includes an old cypress (Cupressus sp.) stump, a large old Photinia sp. and two

Hibiscus cvv. Further south, at the apex of the upper carriage drives, are two large lacebarks,

another cypress stump, an old Pinus sp. (Pinus halepensis?), old Silky Oak (Grevillea robusta) and a

Coral Tree (Erythrina sp.). The drive is partly edged by Bush Lily (Clivia sp.) with some Cape

Honeysuckle (Tecomaria capensis). Behind the homestead’s outbuildings (kitchen wing,

octagonal meathouse and timber shed) is another large Lacebark along with a Mauritius Hemp

and large clumps of an Epiphyllum-type climbing succulent (Cryptocereus sp.?)(F igure 24). The

various older African Olives lining the rear upper drive at this point may be remnants of an earlier hedge. Whereas in most cases the presence of African Olive should be managed through phased removal, old plantings need to be more thoughtfully managed as historically significant cultural landscape components. 2 .4 .3 Homestead Orchard, K itchen Garden & Pick ing Garden

Directly to the east of the Maryland homestead is a large remnant area that likely functioned as the vegetative produce store for the estate’s kitchens. The 1947 aerial photography shows the service garden to be an extended rectangle of some 40m wide by about 150m long with planted rows and various parallel paths following the contours. Perpendicular lines of hedging material are visible indicating designated compartments. Mature trees line the boundaries of the area and a review of physical evidence – particularly the southern and southeastern edges - shows that some of these trees are, in fact, old African Olives that were evidently planted as hedges but have long since become overgrown. (Unfortunately, this notoriously successful species has also long since spread throughout the functional garden and beyond.) The size of the service garden is impressively large – testifying to the social importance of the homestead and its owners – and would have likely included an orchard of citrus and stone fruit trees along with a kitchen garden and picking garden all within relatively convenient distance of the homestead and its outbuildings.

As a result of the current dense thickets of olives and Lantana (Lantana camara, another

notorious weed species), a thorough review of the area was limited. However it is clear that earlier formed benches for paths – some with stone edging – as well as intact stone-paved paths and steps (both stone and concrete) remain. Some of these are clearly elements introduced after 1947 during the Thompson period of ownership while others appear to be much earlier (such as an intricately designed layout within a sunken area featuring stone edges associated with a collapsed iron-roofed timber structure). Flights of steps link the upper homestead carriage drive with the former tennis court – the steps probably being introduced by the Thomson family. At various points within this service area there are old irrigation pipes and hosecocks (F igure 23). Near the upper (eastern) carriage drive is a large water tank that likely provided a vital water supply for irrigating the service garden. Apart from the tall, ornamental trees defining the western side of the service area and the remnant, overgrown hedging along the southern and southeastern edges, there remain some other ornamental plantings of note. To the southwest of the former tennis court is a large old

Lacebark (Brachychiton discolor)(F igure 27) and, adjacent, the recently collapsed trunk of a

massive old Black Oak (Quercus velutina) where some of its upper foliage is still alive. Another large old oak remains intact to the immediate west of the tennis court and, in the 1947 aerial photography, the two oaks appear to be part of a line of trees that defined the eastern edge of Maryland’s large functional garden. Also at the southern boundary is a large old Norfolk Island

Hibiscus (F igure 26) and nearby, a Sophora sp. though the latter tree is not apparent on the


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1947 photography. Near the western edge of the area, and associated with the previously

mentioned sunken area is the trunk of an old cypress (Cupressus sp.) and the fallen massive

trunk of another tree (unidentified). The latter tree has fallen onto the timber structure (previously mentioned above) causing it to collapse (F igure 28).

Other surviving plants within the service garden area include a clump of Banksia Rose (Rosa banksiae), a clump of Giant Bird-of-Paradise (Strelitzia nicolai), Mauritian Hemp, some remnant

Cape Honeysuckle, a Bougainvillea cv. possibly associated with the steps to the former tennis

court as well as other unidentified species. Surviving earlier groundcovers include Bowie’s

Wood-sorrel and a Crassula sp. At the northern end of the service garden area there is an

access point to the homestead featuring stone steps and a narrow stone pathway where there is also a stockpile of salt-glazed 19th century ‘rope top’ garden edging tiles (F igures 29 and 30).

F igure 21 Polygala sp. within the former pleasure grounds. F igure 22 BELOW LEFT The Thomson family tennis court from the mid-1940s remains within the former pleasure grounds. F igure 23 BELOW RIGHT One of several old hosecocks within the former pleasure grounds and kitchen gardens.


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Figure 24 LEFT Cryptocereus sp.? along carriage drive behind homestead. F igure 25 RIGHT Picket gate from eastern lawn of homestead leading to the pleasure grounds below.

F igure 26 LEFT Large, old Norfolk Island Hibiscus at the southern end of the former pleasure grounds, bordering the kitchen gardens with overgrown olive hedging. F igure 27 RIGHT Large Lacebark with a fallen Black Oak beyond.


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Figure 28 Within the kitchen gardens is a carefully designed geometric layout of former bedding using stone edging with a structure nearby (now collapsed from a fallen tree).

F igure 29 ABOVE A stone path runs along upper part of the former kitchen gardens and pleasure grounds with steps leading down to the lower grounds and tennis court. F igure 30 BELOW Within the former pleasure grounds is a stockpile of old glazed edging tiles.


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F igure 31 LEFT One of several large Queen-of-the-night climbing succulents at the knoll summit. This one is behind the guesthouse.

F igure 32 BELOW Justicia adhatoda next to the winery

building.


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2 .5 Maryland ‘Back of House’ Areas Also located along the top of the distinctive Maryland knoll and beyond the homestead, are a number of other stone buildings – the guesthouse group, winery buildings and the southern gate lodge – with associated cultural landscape features. The late 19th century sandstone guesthouse and later addition have as part of their curtilage a gardened bench extending to the north with a rockery-type retaining batter beyond as an edge to the carriage drive loop. There are no old plantings to the north of the guesthouse though there is a stone-paved path beyond the drive providing further evidence that the homestead pleasure grounds may have extended around most of the knoll to the winery buildings.

At the western side of the old guesthouse wing are clumps of Mauritius Hemp and Callitris sp.

behind to the southwest where there is also a large Forest Red Gum (Eucalyptus tereticornis) dominating the rear court. A spectacular feature of the gum is the massive Queen-of-the-night

cactus (Selenicereus grandiflorus) climbing through it along with tangles of Pitaya or Dragon Fruit.

Similarly, on the southeastern side of the guesthouse rear court is another large gum, again with a spectacular Queen-of-the-night climbing through its canopy (F igure 31). Next to this is a large Chir (or Canary Island) Pine. Also behind the guesthouse is an impressively built curving,

stone-paved access path, edged by swathes of Clivia sp., linking the upper terrace with the drive

below as it passes by the winery building. The path is likely to be a Barker-era introduction and probably from the 19th century. On the eastern side of the winery building (presently under reconstruction for stabilisation) is a

Malabar Nut (Adhatoda vasica)(F igure 32) – another shrub species often used in old gardens. Further along the carriage drive to the south is the southern gate lodge with its integral garden. The drive is edged with a well-maintained hedge of Cape Leadwort and to the north are two Norfolk Island Hibiscus. At the southeast corner of the lodge is an old Chir (or Canary Island) Pine. At this point too, there is a major junction of accessways that is duly acknowledged with an ensemble of substantial timber gate posts and boarded fence panels (all painted a unifying white). One gate provides entry to the homestead past the gate lodge, another provides access to the lower winery buildings via a road that loops behind the gate lodge while another gate provides access to the service garden to the east. All of the gates are linked by corresponding timber boarded panels. Only the latter gate and posts have collapsed. Behind the gate lodge a formed bench is apparent that is likely contemporary with the building. All of these estate components are important for the interpretation of the Maryland estate (F igure 16). 2 .6 Per iphera l Features 2 .6 .1 Former Southern Drive P lantat ions

The 1947 aerial photography indicates that a number of rectangular plantations lined the southern entry drive from The Northern Road through the Maryland estate towards the homestead. Of these, two plantations still survive noticeably as substantial blocks of vegetation while a third remains partially evident with only a few surviving mature trees (F igure 33). A fourth plantation site is now indicated solely by a series of earth mounds. There may have been others that were removed before the 1947 photography. Most of the trees remaining in the two upper plantations accord with tree locations in the 1947 photography where they are mostly shown as mature plantings and certainly predating the Thomson period of ownership. Species used in the plantations are typical of those commonly used in the 19th century. Such circumstantial evidence points strongly to the plantations being 19th century introductions and this also accords with the known major estate landscape embellishments at the time of Thomas Charles Barker’s management of the property.


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There is evidence of the plantations being fenced off to prevent stock from trampling them. This suggests that their presence was for mainly aesthetic reasons and, perhaps, some wind protection for the cattle. The effect of the plantations, as carriages arrived at the estate and proceeded along the drive to the homestead, would have been to intermittently block views of the Maryland knoll and homestead while then providing framed glimpses of these scenic features from various angles until finally arriving at the southern gate lodge. So the plantations were actually important parts of a deliberately manipulated serial experience of the estate landscape and were no less important than the designed ‘theatre’ of arriving at the homestead summit via the pleasure grounds avenue.

Mature trees surviving in the last (western) plantation before the drive curves around to the gate lodge, include Kurrajongs and a young Bunya Pine at the western end, a fig tree and a pine

(possibly Pinus halepensis) at the eastern end. The final plantation before entering the southern

gateway to the homestead contains many more surviving trees with a line of Chinese Elm along the southern end (where there is also an old fence post), then distinct rows of trees that include Kurrajong, Jacaranda, Norfolk Island Hibiscus, Lemon-scented gums and a Carob Tree. Another old fence post remains along, and delineating, the western side of the plantation, parallel with the gently ascending estate drive. Within this plantation, Chinese Elms, Lemon-scented gums and African Olive seedlings are a potential nuisance (F igure 34).

2 .6 .2 Engine Pond with Shed and Plantat ion

Another substantial plantation is shown, in the 1947 aerial photography, to enclose farm buildings adjacent to the early engine pond only about two hundred metres from the former pleasure grounds.8 Subsequent aerial photography shows the plantation to have remained mostly intact until recently. In 2018, the plantation is defined to the north by an old bifurcate Hoop Pine (with an eagle’s nest on top) and an old Chinese Elm while the southeastern corner features another Chinese Elm and a Kurrajong. Other elms have seeded around the closest dam

edges with locally indigenous Swamp Oak (Casuarina glauca) colonising the eastern dam edges.

A line of old fence posts remains at the western end of the dam, within the area enclosed by current fencing (F igure 35).

2 .6 .3 Former Eastern Creekl ine Br idge

Running basically parallel with The Northern Road and about 300 to 400m further west is a natural creek line that has been dammed about 1960 and bridged in at least three places for current roads. Between the southern-most road (the former Maryland estate boundary) and the existing southern estate entry drive is a short reach of creek where there is another, long disused, bridge crossing. The actual bridge materials appear to be from the mid-20th century with BHP I-beam girders and timber planks for decking with linoleum matting over and metal water pipe handrails. No obvious evidence of formed tracks leading to and from the bridge was apparent. Both the Casey and Lowe study (2016) and Hector Abrahams report (2017) suggest the possibility of the crossing point being in use at an earlier period on the basis of it being marked on a c. 1907 estate plan. However no clear evidence of early use of the crossing was found at the time of the site inspection for the present study. Relatively recent pine log horse jumps were also located nearby (F igure 36).

2 .7 Home Farm

Important standing structures at the home farm comprise the stone stables/coachhouse, early timber slab stables, early milking shed, early shed and feed stall and the early farm manager’s residence and separate kitchen/store wing. As a generally functional area, there are few cultural landscape features and little vegetation of note apart from old remnant woodland trees, areas of old paving associated with the structures and a lone Hoop Pine. The latter tree, to the north of the step up dairy and though maturing, has been planted after 1970. Despite its young age, the tree has potential landmark qualities and should be retained.

8 Only the 19th century engine shed and store structure currently remains at this location.


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With respect to the woodland trees, those that remain in close proximity to the home farm are now important landscape elements as they, like the early buildings, provide a strong sense of age and continuity within a changing broader landscape. The impressively large old Forest Red Gum at the eastern end of the milking shed row already appears as a mature tree in the 1947 aerial photography as do those at the western end of the same structures, as well as the small group to the north of the farm manager’s cottage. Archival photography shows the latter trees forming parallel lines with other (now removed) woodland trees where, together, an avenue effect was achieved which was a distinctive landscape feature of the home farm for many

decades. The Desert Ash (Fraxinus angustifolia) at the eastern side of the farm manager’s cottage is a relatively recent introduction and has the propensity to become an environmental nuisance. Other relatively recent vegetation to the rear of the same building include an ironbark, a young gum and a young Silky Oak. Stone flagging to the rear spaces of the cottage is an important aspect of this site. Much of this is visible though some may also be buried. The front elevation of the farm manager’s cottage faces east with a direct address to the estate’s former northeastern gate lodge at The Northern Road.

F igure 33 Recent aerial photograph showing the southern part of the planning precinct with the southern Maryland entry drive and its integral 19th century plantations (P1 to P4) indicated. Additionally, a plantation (P5) existed around the engine pond shed where remnants of 19th century plantings still remain. The engine pond and its plantation had a direct and important aesthetic and functional connexion to the Maryland knoll pleasure grounds and service gardens while the carriage drive plantations had an important aesthetic role in structuring the arrival experience through the estate to the homestead. The former plantation P2 has no surviving trees and is now the site of dumped fill.

P4

P3

P5

P1

P2

Maryland homestead


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Figure 34 The northern end of plantation P1 with recent gum saplings beginning to define the edge. In the middle ground to the left is the eastern end of plantation P2 (fig tree and pine).

F igure 35 View to the engine pond and its plantation remnants (P5). The dense clump of trees to the right includes remnants of plantation P1 lining the southern entry drive to the Maryland estate.

F igure 36 Abandoned bridge crossing of Maryland’s eastern tributary creek. The fabric evident here is from the latter half of the 20th century. The crossing is noted on an early 20th century plan.


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2 .8 Maryland’s & Bir l ing ’s Estate Spaces 2 .8 .1 Eastern & Northern F lats

The eastern and northern paddocks of Maryland and most of the Birling property form consistent, open space and the main basis of the historic working farms of both properties. It is likely that substantial tracts of these spaces were cleared early within the establishment periods of each estate though it is known that in the late 19th century there was much more remnant woodland than appears today. These broad-acre cleared paddocks have, for many decades, set the tone of the landscape character of the remnant Maryland and Birling estates. It is because of the generally flat, cleared spaces that so many view opportunities are possible – particularly those from The Northern Road looking across the flats to the conspicuous rise on which the Maryland homestead and its landmark plantings are sited. It is also because the flatter land is generally cleared that the contrast with the vegetated knoll is further accentuated. A further characteristic of these cleared spaces is that much of the indigenous riparian vegetation has been removed – particularly along the eastern-most creek within the Maryland estate. This is partly a factor of concerted clearing and attrition of indigenous vegetation in this area generally (as shown in the 1947 aerial photography) but also, by the mid-20th century, a direct result of the construction of the large dam that has dominated the eastern spaces ever since. This is readily contrasted with Lowes Creek where riparian vegetation seems to have been generally retained through the 20th century, if not longer. This may have been the result of the creek being the traditional boundary of the two historic estates with neither owner wanting to assert ‘rights’ over it by clearing it as was evidently the case with most other creeklines within each estate area. By retaining the riparian vegetation along Lowes Creek, an effective visual boundary has been established with discrete spaces either side being defined by the creekline. For example, currently, there appears to be little, if any, visual connexion between the 1812 Birling site and Maryland’s home farm area. An implication of considering the nature of Maryland’s eastern creekline further is that, if the existing large dam were to be removed and the taller indigenous riparian species re-established along the length of the creekline, the perception of the scale of the eastern spaces would change. Current views of the visually dominant Maryland knoll and ridgeline would also change and a different kind of space would be defined between the creekline and The Northern Road. Within the Birling property, the main curvilinear ridgeline, on which the entry drive is located, provides an ever-changing serial prospect from which to look down across the broad, cleared spaces that currently characterise the remnant estate. Although much lower and more subtle in its contextual landscape, the long, arcing Birling ridgeline echoes for this property what the high knoll and southern ridgeline does for the Maryland property with Lowes Creek cutting through between the two ridges (F igures 37 and 39). 2 .8 .2 Maryland’s Western F lats

To the west of the Maryland knoll and its southern ridgeline, is another relatively flat valley up to the property’s western boundary. Again, as with the eastern spaces, the western valley historically featured a creekline delineated by tall riparian vegetation. Much of this was cleared by the mid-20th century but was further dramatically altered shortly after with the construction of another large dam. Unlike the eastern side of Maryland, where the flatter elevation land continues across The Northern Road and South Creek before the land rises again, the western side of Maryland quickly changes beyond the large dam to much more undulating topography with some steep sections. Much of this hillier land is also vegetated – either with persistent indigenous woodland or large thickets of colonising African Olive. As a result of the more pronounced topographic variation defining the western valley and copses of vegetation, there are some visually discrete spaces within the western valley landscape.


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2 .8 .3 Bir l ing ’s Western Hi l l s

A similar situation is apparent at the western edges of the Birling property where vegetated and steeply rising hills combine with remnant riparian vegetation along tributaries of Lowes Creek to define a few visually discrete spaces with a very different landscape character to the broader, open spaces closer to the Birling homestead sites (F igure 39).

2 .9 Bir l ing 1812 S ite

2 .9 .1 Homestead S ite

The early Birling homestead and its group of outbuildings was demolished by the middle of the 20th century and the site used by horse trainer HH Young to build stables and yards. So while the present earliest standing structure on the old homestead site dates to the 1930s, there is likely to be considerable archaeological potential for the 19th century occupation – particularly by the Lowe family - remaining in the ground at this site. Some limited evidence of this is already visible with old herringbone brick paving at the western side of the 1930s stables and recycled stone paving adjacent to the existing late 20th century house nearby.

A comparison of the present site (with its obvious ground modulations) with archival material showing the northern entry to the old homestead group strongly suggests that the earlier access drive to the homestead and nearby outbuildings as well as other layout may remain as subsurface evidence. The general area of the former 1812 homestead and its associated building group and layout should be regarded as a site of considerable cultural importance and conserved through careful management.

The 1947 aerial photography shows a well-provisioned orchard to the north of the 1812 homestead site and, given the relatively intact plantings and the scale of canopies at this time, this cultural landscape feature is assumed to be associated with the Morrow family who were tenants at Birling, living in the old homestead, from 1899 to sometime between the late 1920s and about 1935. A comparison of this area with that of recent aerial photography shows that little trace of the orchard remains with fencing patterns having also now changed.

A review of the vegetation around the 1930s stables reveals that little survives of the earlier vegetation shown even in the 1947 aerial photography let alone from the Lowe period of

ownership. However, two species in particular – Black Locust (Robinia pseudoacacia) and

Chinese Elm (Ulmus parvifolia) – are present on site and known to have been used by settlers in

the early 19th century. These opportunists may, therefore, be progeny of earlier plantings at Birling. Almost all of the plantings at the site are from within the last 20 or so years. The large Desert Ash next to the stables is relatively recent and is likely an opportunistic self-propagated introduction.

2 .9 .2 Former Cult ivat ion Patterns

The 1947 aerial photography clearly shows old cultivation patterns of varying grain (or spacings) that have been etched into the Birling farm landscape. Interestingly, many of these are etched across drainage lines indicating the intermittent nature of the streams throughout the property.

The history of the former estate suggests that virtually all of the Birling owners or occupiers subsequent to the Lowe family mainly used the property for grazing or raising horses. The extensive cultivation of the estate landscape as shown in the aerial photography would not have been such a priority. This means that the cultivation patterns were initiated during the Lowe period of ownership (up to the 1890s) and, most likely, in the early 19th century. However, a comparison with recent aerial photography shows that, apart from faint traces in places, little of this historic cultural landscape feature remains apparent. The most obvious remnants are those just north of Lowes Creek and not far from the 1812 homestead site. Elsewhere, the patterns have been compromised through dam enlargement, subsequent building work and the realignment of much fencing with associated fine ground tilling (F igure 38).


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2 .10 Old Bir l ing Drive Remnant A further comparison of the 1947 and recent aerial photography reveals that the entry drive between the western vicinity of the 1937 homestead and the 1812 Birling homestead site has remained consistent. Both the 1843 Dadswell painting and the early 1880s ground photography (taken from a similar vantage point) show the old carriage drive arriving at the old homestead from the north (as the Maryland knoll behind both pictures provides the key orientation reference). A 1929 topographical army map also confirms this alignment between the two homestead sites. It is also likely that any early carriage drive would have been sited along more elevated ground (such as the ridgeline) to avoid traversing creeklines. All of this means that the existing curving alignment of the entry drive roughly between the two Birling homestead sites is probably that of the original drive of Robert Lowe. This is a significant cultural landscape feature and should be retained and interpreted (F igures 37 and 39). From about the vicinity of the 1930s Birling garage and nearby adjacent agricultural buildings, the old drive alignment further east is now lost. A trace of the earlier drive alignment is visible in the 1947 aerial photography across the adjoining property to the north before curving back around into the present property before heading to the east to meet The Northern Road. This general alignment is also confirmed in the 1929 army map as well as the 1955 topographic map where, together with the 1947 photography, HH Young’s ovaliform former racecourse is shown. Any evidence of the eastern sections of the old drive – as well as the former racecourse – is now difficult to see. More recent road widening by the RMS has effectively removed any potential traces of the early drive junction with The Northern Road. 2 .11 Bir l ing 1937 S ite The 1937 homestead site is now surrounded by the remnants of late 20th century plantings and copses of woodland trees. However none of these are evident in the 1947 aerial photography. Surprisingly, the immediate homestead site area including the garage to the west has no evident plant material whatsoever associated with it. There is also very little layout attached to the site apart from the basic alignment of fences which have remained consistent to the present. This means that there are very few significant landscape elements contemporary with the 1937 homestead site though the more mature woodland trees and other plantings do positively contribute to the site’s amenity. The woodland trees in particular should be retained in any future redevelopment of the site.

F igure 37 View along the old carriage drive to the 1812 Birling site with the Maryland knoll behind (left).


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Figure 38 1947 aerial view of part of the Birling estate showing old cultivation patterns along the flats to the north of Lowes Creek. Note too the early 20th century orchard to the northeast of the old Birling site. F igure 39 BELOW Plan showing the overall planning precinct with key natural and cultural landscape features for both Birling and Maryland.

OLD BIRLING SITE

LOWES CREEK


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3 Visual Context Many of the views described in the following sections have high cultural value. Those between Maryland and Birling are exceptional because of the early relationship of the two independently important cultural sites and also because they are archivally documented, indicating that the visual relationship between the two was already well appreciated from the early 19th century. 3 .1 Mary land 3 .1 .1 Key Views to Mary land Homestead

Since the 1850s, the Maryland homestead would have been conspicuously visible (as it remains today) from many vantage points in the local area including elevated topography of the Birling property, various prospects from within the Maryland estate, from along The Northern Road as well as the neighbouring properties to the east such as the former Nonorrah and Pondicherry. With the continual clearing of woodland and riparian vegetation, then the successive regrowth of trees along the main road reserves, views would have altered over the years but the overall prominence of the Maryland homestead core, especially with the maturing of its tall landmark Araucarian plantings, would have remained a major feature of this cultural landscape over many decades. Several of the view prospects to the Maryland knoll are particularly interesting – for example, those from the Birling property and from the early line of access that became The Northern Road – as these vantage points were in use by colonists for decades before Thomas Barker began any building and planting on the knoll. That is, the naturally wooded knoll was already a visually conspicuous feature of the local landscape before it was ‘embellished’ by Barker’s additions from the 1850s, as is evident in Anne Dadswell’s 1843 painting from the old Birling homestead. Key views to the Maryland homestead knoll in 2018 include those from: * Along most of the Birling entry drive where it coincides with the local ridgeline (F igure 37); * The 1812 Birling homestead site where these continue view prospects known for about 200 years; * The 1937 Birling homestead site; * The cleared, elevated western areas of the Birling property with view prospects over the tall riparian vegetation of Lowes Creek;9 * A point along The Northern Road (heading south) just south of the Birling turn-off and before the alignment kinks to the east (F igure 46); * Intermittent points along The Northern Road thereafter (between existing modern cottages) until reaching the former northeastern gate lodge from which point there is a continuous view sequence to the knoll and southern ridgeline until proceeding further south past the Maryland property; * The main north-south ridgeline running through the adjacent Pondicherry property to the east of The Northern Road; * Numerous prospects within the cleared paddocks of the remnant Maryland estate from many directions relative to the homestead group; * The home farm area including the former manager’s cottage (F igures 47 and 48); * The former northeastern gate lodge (F igure 49).

9 Note too, that many of these views also have prospects beyond the Maryland ridgeline to the distant ridges that

separate the two LGAs of Camden and Campbelltown where, for example, the distinctive lone fig tree of the Emerald Hills site and the flat top rise of Badgally Hill near St Gregory’s College (the site of EL Moore’s 1880s homestead ‘Badgally’) are clearly visible along the horizon. This suggests that the Maryland knoll may also be visible from these distant eastern vantage points (though this was not tested for this study).


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3 .1 .2 Key Views from Maryland Homestead

Maryland homestead would have had extensive views across much of its domain owing to its elevation and prospect. The orientation of the main house axis is to the northeast (as were many such houses of the period) so that a general sweep of views from the northwest around to the southeast would have been possible at earlier times before surrounding plantations were established (F igures 40 to 42). At the front of the homestead, views would have been eventually framed by the maturing tall pines. Views behind the homestead likely would have been more limited owing to retained vegetation for windbreak purposes. Some of these earlier woodland trees remain to the west with one old tree having been recently removed to the south (near the stone winery building). Within the homestead’s and early guesthouse’s current views are the two Birling homestead sites though a recent gum introduced (possibly self-propagated) on the northern knoll slope is beginning to obscure some of these important views from the homestead. 3 .1 .3 Key Sequent ia l V iews with in the Mary land Estate

The two separate gate lodges testify to two separate estate entries for Maryland. That these gate lodges were also consciously designed as ‘picturesque’ structures testifies to the separate estate entries being part of a deliberately planned aesthetic experience rather than just a matter-of-fact exercise of proceeding from one point to another. The experience of entering the estate and travelling through its pastoral landscape before arriving at the homestead was clearly conceived by the Barkers as an important part of the estate’s presentation. For many country properties the entry is quite ordinary and straightforward with all of the utilitarian directness of a basic farm road. Maryland is not like this. It was planned in the 19th century – whether initially or not – with aesthetic parameters in mind, integral with the practical ones and, by 2018, some of these attributes remain to some extent (F igure 43). With the effective demise of much of the northern entry drive off The Northern Road there is now only the southern drive and the ascending avenue section of the northern drive remaining. Yet it is still possible to appreciate something of the experience of arriving at the homestead by way of these two entry routes. In the case of the southern carriage drive, visitors to the estate would arrived off The Northern Road with long views of the vegetated knoll and southern ridgeline across agricultural that showed that the owners possessed an impressive expanse of productive landscape. Proceeding further, there would have been a creek crossing – itself always an important aesthetic experience – then the changing perspective of views of the homestead core would be curtailed by passing intermittent plantations of ornamental trees before finally arriving at the southern gate ensemble and gate lodge. After this would have been the more confined experience of proceeding along the upper drive enclosed by a steep bank, hedging and other ornamental trees before turning the corner and suddenly encountering the homestead at close range. Likewise the northern carriage drive would have involved similar ploys to display then withhold scenic views of the homestead core prior to entering the main gateway at the bottom of the knoll then proceeding up the avenue (where views would be controlled) before reaching the summit where, again, the best angle of the homestead would be dramatically and prominently revealed at close range. This is carefully designed landscape theatre and represents an Australian version of much-rehearsed aesthetic principles known from centuries ago in Europe. 3 .2 B ir l ing 3 .2 .1 Key Views to the Bir l ing 1812 S ite

To some extent too, the aesthetic premises described in the preceding section for Maryland, also applies to the experience of arriving at the old Birling site. The 1929 army topographical map shows a meandering entry drive to the old homestead from The Northern Road where,


37

because of the extent of clearing, views across the landscape may have been possible. As the drive climbed the gentle ascent to then follow the ridgeline, further views, from constantly changing perspectives, would have been possible before finally heading south and arriving at the homestead within its immediate fenced pleasure grounds. Today, the chief remnant of this early drive and its associated serial views of the old homestead site is the final third (F igure 37). Other views to the 1812 homestead site include those from: * The 1937 homestead site; * Most cleared land within the former estate; and * The Maryland knoll. 3 .2 .2 Key Views from the Bir l ing 1812 S ite

As the 1812 Birling homestead core was sited at the end of a long elevated finger of land, it still provides panoramic views across its associated open pastures with the intervening riparian vegetation along Lowes Creek to the south and southeast forming a natural screen to views beyond – where for example, the relatively close Maryland home farm is not visible. The notable exception is the pronounced rise of the Maryland knoll. These latter views represent the only known vistas within both the Birling and Maryland estates to be confirmed through the 19th century archival record and, as a consequence, are highly significant and of great importance in terms of cultural heritage conservation (F igures 37 and 44). 3 .2 .3 Key Views to the Bir l ing 1937 S ite

The 1937 homestead of HH Young is sited on slightly higher and more central land within the former estate and is generally even more visible than the 1812 homestead site. The 1937 group is clearly visible from both the old homestead site and the Maryland homestead group though not obviously so from The Northern Road. 3 .2 .4 Key Views from the Bir l ing 1937 S ite

With its central property location and relatively high elevation, the 1937 homestead group retains panoramic views across its domain to the east through to the 1812 site and beyond. The Maryland knoll is also prominently visible to the southwest.

F igure 40 View from the Maryland homestead and knoll summit to the home farm.


38

F igure 41 View along the Maryland homestead axis looking due northeast across its northern paddocks. The recent gum near the middle of the view is beginning to screen traditional views to Birling. F igure 42 BELOW A view to the north from the northern slopes of the Maryland knoll.

F igure 43 Sequential entry views to Maryland from The Northern Road.


39

Figure 44 View from the old Birling site to the Maryland knoll in the background.

F igure 45 Mature woodland trees (indicated) historically associated with the Maryland home farm.


40

4 Considerat ion of Cultural Signi f icance This section includes an assessment of the cultural significance of various cultural landscape components of the LCM Precinct along with a summary statement and gradings for the components. The Australia ICOMOS Burra Charter defines cultural significance as meaning:

Aesthetic, historic, scientific, social or spiritual value for past, present or future generations. Cultural significance is embodied in the place itself, its fabric, setting, use, associations, meanings, records, related places and related objects. Places may have a range of values for different individuals or groups.10

The Heritage Division of the NSW OEH has developed the Heritage Manual that provides a

relative basis for the assessment of cultural significance. It uses various criteria and these have been adapted to the Camden LGA for the purposes of this cultural landscape review. The criteria are not necessarily mutually exclusive so some overlapping of information may occur as particular attributes satisfy more than one criterion. The remnant Maryland estate has been nominated for listing on the SHR and various components are also individually of significance at a State level (such as the homestead and various associated buildings). The 1812 Birling site is also considered to be of significance at a State level. While many of the cultural landscape components of the LCM Precinct are of value at a local level, some are also of individual significance at a State level. Yet all of these components should be seen as important constituents of the overall site, collectively contributing to the State level value of the place. 4 .1 Assess ing the S ign i f icance of the LCM Prec inct Landscape E lements For the purposes of this assessment, the ‘Item’ is the overall LCM Precinct cultural landscape. Criterion (a) An item is important in the course, or pattern, of the Camden LGA’s cultural or natural history. A number of attributes within the LCM Precinct have the capacity to demonstrate the course or pattern of cultural history within the Camden LGA. These include: * The early 19th century development of the Birling estate that resulted in the siting of the old homestead and its associated building group at a distinctive location along a key ridgeline and where there is a high potential for important archaeological resources to remain; * The mid-19th century development of the Maryland estate characterised by its early buildings and key entry drives along with the establishment of the basic functional areas for a major Cumberland Plain agricultural enterprise such as the home farm and paddock hierarchy, farm roads, vineyards, winery complex and homestead grounds and service gardens; * The later 19th century development and establishment of Maryland as an important example in the Camden LGA of a picturesque farming estate featuring the construction of the two gate lodges, introduction of large plantations along the southern entry drive and expansion of its pleasure grounds; * The mid-20th century redevelopment of Birling as a society farm featuring horses that included a large racetrack and for which its 1937 homestead, motor garage and stables remain; and * The later 20th century development of Maryland as a major dairy farm in the Camden LGA particularly for Holstein-Friesian cattle.

Criterion (b) An item has strong or special association with the life or works of a person, or group of persons, of importance in the Camden LGA’s cultural or natural history.

10

Australia ICOMOS Burra Charter, 2013, p. 2


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The LCM Precinct holds direct and strong historical connexions with:

* The Colonial magistrate and farmer Robert Lowe, who established the Birling estate in the 1810s; * Engineer, keen amateur gardener and philanthropist Thomas Barker and his son TC Barker who, respectively, substantially established and further developed the Maryland estate from the mid-19th century out of the western part of John Dickson’s 1810s farm Nonorrah (Dickson’s grant extended both east and west of The Northern Road); * The horse trainer HH Young who further developed the Birling estate in the mid-20th century; * And the locally prominent Thomson family who continued the agricultural use of Maryland as a major dairy farm from the mid-20th century until the early 21st century.

Between them, the Barker and Thomson families occupied Maryland for over 160 years.

Criterion (c) An item is important in demonstrating aesthetic characteristics and/or a high degree of creative or technical achievement in the Camden LGA. A number of attributes within the LCM Precinct have the capacity to demonstrate aesthetic characteristics in the Camden LGA. These include:

* The conscious planning and development of the Maryland estate that resulted in the design, location, siting and construction of its homestead (and possible earlier cottage) at the most commanding part of the locally prominent ridge system to exploit scenic opportunities through local views across the Maryland estate, to neighbouring farms (including Birling and Nonorrah) and more distant views to landmarks and other 19th century estates; * Key view lines between the Maryland knoll and the Maryland home farm; and between the Maryland knoll and the old Birling homestead site; * The design, location, siting and construction of its two ‘picturesque’ gate lodges to punctuate and complement the two earlier entry drives through the estate’s pastoral landscape; * The integrated design and construction of various substantial gate ensembles to announce key entry points within the estate and the division of estate functional areas; * The designation and planting out of a large area for pleasure grounds, featuring a range of ornamental plant species, around the ‘high profile’ parts of the homestead including an entry avenue up the ascending carriage drive using tall, landmark conifer species; * The extensive use of sandstone for edgings, drains, paving and walling to reinforce the importance of the knoll summit area and pleasure grounds as part of a hierarchy of materials; * The introduction of substantial plantations of hardy ornamental tree species along the southern entry drive chiefly for aesthetic purposes – in particular, to shape and enhance the serial experience of arriving at Maryland and its summit homestead; and * The sophisticated presentation of the Maryland homestead summit with its ornamental plantings as a prominent feature in extensive views from within the estate, neighbouring estates, The Northern Road and further afield.

Criterion (d) An item has strong or special association with a particular community, or cultural group in the Camden LGA for social, cultural or spiritual reasons.

Although not specifically tested as part of this study, Maryland, at least, but also probably the Birling core, are likely to hold considerable value and special cultural associations for various contemporary communities of interest both within the Camden LGA and within NSW more broadly. Such communities of interest would include professional groups such as historians (including architectural historians) and peak cultural history organisations such as the National Trust of Australia (NSW) and the Australian Garden History Society.

Maryland also demonstrates its cultural value to contemporary communities by being recognised through its heritage listings by Camden Council (Camden LEP 2010, Schedule 5), the Register of the National Estate (where there are two listings – one for the homestead and outbuildings and another for the Maryland garden and setting), the National Trust of Australia (NSW) and its current nomination for SHR listing by the Heritage Council of NSW.


42

Another indication of the cultural value of Maryland and Birling to contemporary communities of interest is the number of professional studies over several decades where all have found compelling evidence to support a SHR listing of Maryland and the later studies likewise for the old Birling site. These include:

* Colleen Morris & Geoffrey Britton, Maryland in Colonial Landscapes of the Cumberland Plain,

2000 on behalf of the National Trust of Australia (NSW) for the NSW Heritage Office;11

* Tropman & Tropman Architects, Conservation Management Plan for Maryland and Birling,

February 2017;

* Casey & Lowe, Non-Indigenous Archaeological Assessment for Lowes Creek Maryland Part Precincts Rezoning, September 2016;

* Hector Abrahams Architects, Maryland and Birling, Conservation Management Plan: Significance and Policies, November 2017

* Extent Heritage, Lowes Creek and Maryland Part Precinct: Aboriginal Cultural Heritage Assessment Report, December 2017

* Geoffrey Britton, LCM Precinct Cultural Landscape Review 2018 The Maryland homestead knoll also likely holds some value for a large number of passing travellers as a local Bringelly landmark and cultural reference point along The Northern Road.

Criterion (e) An item has potential to yield information that will contribute to an understanding of the Camden LGA’s cultural or natural history. Both the former Birling 1812 site (through its archaeology) and the remnant Maryland estate hold research potential relevant to the planning and development of early European farming estates in Australia. Maryland also holds considerable research potential relevant to vineyards and wine production processes in the Camden area; the development of ornamental grounds attached to a major estate homestead; sources of plant material and potential connections to other major 19th century estates of State significance in the Camden LGA such as Gledswood and Camden Park (through TC Barker’s wife, Emily Macarthur Chisholm, and the Chisholm family of Gledswood as well as their connections to the Macarthurs of Camden Park with its significant and influential plant nursery); and connections between Thomas Barker and his friend the nurseryman and landscape specialist Thomas Shepherd with respect to influences by the latter on the planning and aesthetic choices of Barker at his Maryland estate.12 Criterion (f) An item possesses uncommon, rare or endangered aspects of the Camden LGA’s cultural or natural history. The remnant Maryland estate represents a rare surviving example of a major 19th century farm where substantial elements of its formative planning and design remain either intact or readily appreciable. These elements include its intact early building stock, its various integrated entry gate ensembles, its remaining 19th century estate drives, its homestead pleasure grounds and service gardens, parts of its former vineyard area across the northern slopes of the knoll, remnants of its southern drive plantations, stone detailing associated with the summit drives and a substantial number of remnant 19th century plantings. Maryland is also rare among surviving Cumberland plain farming estates in retaining its early homestead complex (including substantial winery buildings) along with its two ‘ornamental’ gate lodges, entry drive remnants and associated plantations and extensive pleasure grounds that testify to a knowledgeable and sophisticated commitment by Thomas Barker, in particular, to

11

This study did not consider the Birling property. 12

Note too that Thomas Barker was one of the trustees of Thomas Shepherd’s will who died in 1835.


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create an estate landscape with strong aesthetic attributes. In this, Barker was probably influenced by his earlier contact with Thomas Shepherd who promulgated important estate planning concepts in Australia – these being also influenced by major landscape practitioners and writers in Britain such as Capability Brown, Thomas White, Humphry Repton (whom Shepherd knew) and John Claudius Loudon.13

Criterion (g) An item is important in demonstrating the principal characteristics of a class of the Camden LGA’s cultural or natural places; or cultural or natural environments. The remnant Maryland estate is an excellent example of a major 19th century Cumberland Plain estate where principles of estate planning for a viable, mixed agriculture farm were dovetailed with a developed interest in landscape planning aesthetics. Maryland’s history from the 1850s through to the early 21st century is inscribed in its cultural landscape illustrating each generation’s approach, priorities, taste and expectations. 4 .2 Statement of S ign i f icance The LCM Precinct contains remnant cultural landscapes of considerable value to the Camden LGA and a broader NSW community. Maryland remains one of the most outstanding 19th century estate landscapes in NSW with its 1850s homestead and many of its early buildings (including stone winery structures) surviving along with integral pleasure grounds, vineyard slopes, large service garden, home farm, substantial gate ensembles and estate drives. Maryland can also demonstrate that, through its principal owner Thomas Barker, it was planned and designed with a view to sophisticated aesthetic purpose as well as viable agricultural enterprise (Humphry Repton’s classic ‘beauty and utility’) 14 – with the two ‘picturesque’ gate lodges and the remnant plantations along the southern drive testifying to planned serial aesthetic experiences in entering the estate before arriving dramatically at the homestead. Its large pleasure grounds heighten the visual prominence of the homestead knoll which is widely visible. All of these qualities reinforce the estate as a cultural landscape of considerable importance. These qualities also make Maryland rare within NSW. Through its surviving fabric and layout, the Maryland cultural landscape retains strong and direct associational connections with engineer, manufacturer, amateur gardener and philanthropist Thomas Barker along with his son Thomas Charles Barker and his wife Emily Macarthur Chisholm of Gledswood. While most of the early Birling estate elements have been lost, there remains a potentially rich archaeological resource testifying to the 1812 homestead site with its associated outbuildings along with the western-most section of its original entry drive. These remaining vestiges testify to Birling’s original grantee, the local Colonial magistrate and farmer Robert Lowe. Both Maryland and Birling remain as two of the earliest and longest continuously farmed estate remnants within the Cumberland Plain with beginnings in 1810s land grants through Governor Lachlan Macquarie. Both Maryland and the old Birling core, are likely to hold considerable value and special cultural associations for various contemporary communities of interest both within the Camden LGA and within NSW more broadly. The locally conspicuous Maryland homestead knoll is likely of some value for a large number of passing travellers as a local Bringelly landmark and cultural reference point along The Northern Road.

13

Victor Crittenden, Thomas Shepherd entry in Richard Aitken and Michael Looker (Eds), The Oxford Companion to Australian Gardens, Oxford University Press, South Melbourne, 2002, pp. 548-549; also Geoffrey Britton and

Colleen Morris, Mary land entry in The Oxford Companion to Australian Gardens, 2002, p. 402 14

Tom Williamson, Polite Landscapes: Gardens & Society in Eighteenth-century England, Sutton Publishing, 1998


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4 .3 Grading of S ign i f icance for Cultura l Landscape Components

No. S i te Component S ign i f icance To lerance Ref . (see

for Change Plates 1, 2) 1

Maryland knoll and southern ridge landform (esp. its prominence in the locality)

Exceptional

Low

Figure 39

2 3

Southern Maryland estate entry drive Remnants of 19th century plantations along the

Maryland southern entry drive

Exceptional Exceptional

Low Low

Figs. 33, 39 Figs. 33-35

4

Maryland homestead inner/summit carriage drives

Exceptional

Low

Figs. 12, 15

5 6 7 8

Maryland homestead pleasure grounds including

the avenue along the ascending carriage drive All 19th century plantings at the Maryland summit Maryland homestead orchards & kitchen garden area Maryland ‘back of house’ areas (between homestead and winery buildings) incl. stone-cobbled path

Exceptional Exceptional Exceptional Exceptional

Low Low Low Low

Figs. 13, 43 Needs survey Figure 43 Figure 76

9

Maryland home farm

Exceptional

Low

Figure 43

10 11 12

Old Forest Red Gum group north of former farm manager’s cottage at the Maryland home farm Old Forest Red Gums near long timber shed at the Maryland home farm Old Forest Red Gums at Maryland knoll summit near stone guesthouse

Exceptional Exceptional Exceptional

Low Low Low

Figure 45 Figs. 45, 54 Figure 31

13

Lower estate road around bottom of Maryland knoll

Exceptional

Low

Figs. 43 & 17, 18

14

Archaeological evidence of former Maryland vineyards

Exceptional

Low

Figure 20

15

Engine pond group incl. pond, the former engine shed and plantation remnants (east of Maryland ridge)

Exceptional

Low

Figs. 33, 35, 39 & 43


45

S i te Component S ign i f icance To lerance Ref . (Also for Change Plates 1-4) 16

Access road to Maryland Former ‘Entry Cottage’

Exceptional

Low

Figure 19

17

Birling 1812 homestead site (archaeology)

Exceptional

Moderate

See Casey & Lowe rpt

18

Birling carriage drive remnant (between the 1937

homestead site and the 1812 homestead site)

Exceptional

Low

Figure 39

19

20 21

Traditional views between 1812 Birling homestead site and the Maryland knoll and homestead group

Views between Maryland and its home farm Views between Maryland and its former lower gate lodge

Exceptional Exceptional Exceptional

Low Low Low

Figs. 37, 44 Figure 40 Figure 43

22

Riparian vegetation along Lowes Creek

Exceptional

Low

Figs. 1, 10, 62 & 80

23 24

Sequential views within the Maryland Estate from the southern entry drive (especially of the knoll)

Traditional views from the Maryland homestead area to the pastoral landscape beyond

Exceptional Exceptional

Moderate Moderate

Figure 43 Figs. 41, 42

25 26 27 28

Maryland estate spaces: Eastern & Northern Flats Maryland estate spaces: Western Flats Birling estate spaces: Flats Birling estate spaces: Western Hills

Exceptional High High High

Moderate Moderate Moderate Moderate

Figs. 35, 40 Plate 2 Figs. 80, 82 Figure 81

29 30

Old brick & sandstone debris on northern knoll slopes Disused machinery near engine pond and shed

High High

Moderate Moderate

Figs. 63, 64 Figure 51

31

32

33

34

35

Vista from The Northern Road to the Maryland knoll at a point just south of the Birling turn-off Views from the remnant Birling carriage drive to the Maryland knoll Views from the 1937 Birling homestead site to the Maryland knoll Views of the Maryland knoll and southern ridge from along The Northern Road (many intermittent points) Views of the Maryland knoll & southern ridge from neighbouring properties to the east (eg Pondicherry)

High High High High High

Low Moderate Moderate Moderate Moderate

Figure 46 Figure 37 Figure 80 Figure 49 Plate 2

36 37

Stone edging & drains to summit carriage drive Remnant trees (Kurrajongs and Hoop Pine) along the lower estate road

High High

Low Low

Figure 58 Figs. 17, 53


46

S i te Component S ign i f icance To lerance Ref . (See

for Change Plates 3, 4)

38 39

40

Maryland entry gate and picket panel ensembles (at

The Northern Road and inner estate entries) Remnants of northern estate entry drive Timber post remnants within the northern-most

plantation (along southern estate drive)

High High High

Low Low Low

Figs. 16, 53 Figure 49 Figure 49

41 42

Queen-of-the-Night climbers at rear of guesthouse Epiphyllum sp. climbing succulent near winery

High High

Low Low

Figure 31 Figure 24

43

Remnant Birling cultivation patterns near Lowes Ck.

High

Moderate

Figure 38

44

Overgrown African Olive hedging around Maryland’s service gardens (orchards/kitchen gardens)

High

Moderate

Figure 26

45 46 47 48

Lone Hoop Pine near step up dairy Woodland trees near the 1937 Birling homestead Pitaya/Dragon fruit clumps within pleasure grounds

and rear of guesthouse area Younger trees behind home farm manager’s cottage (Maryland)

Moderate Moderate Moderate Moderate

Low Low Moderate Moderate

Figure 8 Figs. 65. 77 Figure 56

49

50

51

Views from elevated areas of the Birling property with prospects over tall riparian vegetation of Lowes Creek to the Maryland knoll Views from the 1937 Birling homestead to the 1812 homestead site and the 1930s stables Views from the 1812 Birling homestead site to the 1937 Birling homestead site

Moderate Moderate Moderate

Moderate Moderate Moderate

Figure 80

52 53

54

Former bridge (fabric) at southeastern corner of

Maryland Desert Ash at front of home farm manager’s cottage

(Maryland) Vegetation generally within the 1812 Birling site area

Low Low

Low

High High

High

Figure 36 Figure 56

Figure 81

55 56

57

58 59

60

61 62

Later self-sown opportunists within southern estate

drive plantations (removal should be supervised) Environmental weeds & self-sown exotic vegetation

generally (though removal should be supervised) African Olive opportunists within the service garden

& pleasure grounds Lantana thickets within the service garden & pleasure

Grounds (care needed) Chinese Elm opportunists within the service garden & pleasure grounds c. 1960 Poultry shed & fill over 19th century lower estate drive Recent poultry sheds (three) south of latter shed Swimming pool within Maryland homestead grounds

Intrusive Intrusive

Intrusive Intrusive Intrusive

Intrusive Intrusive Neutral

Remove

Remove

Remove Remove

Remove

Remove Remove High

Figure 75

Figure 78


47

Plate 1 Locations of selected Items of Exceptional Significance from Sect ion 4 .3 above.

P late 2 Locations of selected Items of Exceptional Significance from Sect ion 4 .3 above.


48

Plate 3 Locations of selected Items of High Significance from Sect ion 4 .3 above.

P late 4 Locations of selected Items of High Significance from Sect ion 4 .3 above.


49

F igure 46 Vista from The Northern Road (just south of the Birling entry junction) to the Maryland knoll.

F igure 47 ABOVE View of the Maryland knoll and homestead group with its dominant Araucarian pines looking across part of the home farm from the former farm manager’s cottage. F igure 48 LEFT View from the stables building to the Maryland knoll.


50

F igure 49 View of the Maryland knoll from the northeastern gate remnants. The former northern gate lodge is just out of the frame to the right.


51

5 Recommendations and Mit igatory Measures

The review of the LCM Precinct cultural landscape and the consideration of significance have indicated that there are components of the precinct of considerable cultural value to NSW. Some of these elements are of exceptional value and this carries various implications, the chief of which is an obligation to retain and conserve these values. As a result of this, there is some potential conflict where some elements of cultural value fall within zones that have been committed for future urban development and where the intrinsic landscape character would be greatly altered.

In the case of Birling, the area of particular interest – including the highly significant carriage drive remnant - is relatively limited in area, and potentially readily incorporated in a basic urban layout. In the case of Maryland, the majority of its significant heritage resources lie within proposed heritage conservation zones – such as the proposed Maryland curtilage area - where preservation of these resources would not be wholly affected by future urban development. However, some of the important cultural landscape components of the Maryland estate are its broad-acre paddocks of open pastureland that provide a topographic and vegetative contrast to the wooded homestead knoll and southern ridgeline. Most of these spaces are within proposed urban zones and those that are not will, nevertheless, change in character from rural to a more intensively manipulated landscape (either irrigated grass, parkland or other designed landscapes) in tandem with the plethora of urban elements such as signs, lighting, furniture, paths and formal edgings.

A particularly important aspect of the Maryland cultural landscape is its 19th century southern entry drive where the substantial plantations along it were intended to play a role in shaping the serial experience of arrival. They were important ‘stage sets’ in the ‘theatre’ of traversing the Maryland estate landscape - an experience that culminated in the sudden arrival at the homestead after views of it were momentarily withheld by the richly planted summit grounds and topography. The old plantations still survive to some extent but have the capacity to be reconstructed such that Thomas Barker’s intended serial arrival experience could be reinterpreted. Along with the plantations, the entire length of the southern drive is also important. There is the potential to carefully incorporate these key estate features into the planned urban layout.

5 .1 Recommendat ions

5 .1 .1 LCM Precinct Genera l ly

* Existing riparian vegetation should, as much as possible, be retained, conserved and encouraged to regenerate where viable or assisted with reconstruction otherwise; * Depleted principal creek lines should be restored with appropriate locally indigenous riparian vegetation including tall species such as Swamp Oak and woodland trees; * The visual prominence (especially locally) of the Maryland knoll and southern ridgeline must be retained – an implication of this is that the heights of proposed urban development within close proximity to this landform should be carefully considered and strictly controlled; * In relation to proposed roads to support the future urban precinct, those at the upper end of the road hierarchy should not be located in close proximity to the conserved homestead areas in order to avoid, as much as possible, an abrupt contrast in landscape character, noise and intensity; * Critical view lines between the Maryland knoll and the 1812 Birling homestead site must be retained unimpeded; * If noise attenuation mounding is used in association with primary roads within the precinct, ensure these are not located in proximity to the homestead site conservation areas or within critical view lines of these areas; * Ensure the removal and control of African Olive and other environmental weeds throughout the broader areas of the LCM Precinct including the western hills and all riparian areas; * A comprehensive cultural history-based Interpretation Plan should be included with the development approval submission for the LCM Precinct.


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5.1 .2 Bir l ing 1812 & 1937 S ites

* The Birling 1812 homestead complex site should be the subject of an archaeological management plan; * The early Birling carriage drive remnant must be included in ILP planning considerations; * Where possible, consider retaining open space near the Lowes Creek riparian corridor where 19th century cultivation patterns are still evident; * The Birling 1937 site should be the subject of a CMP that fully integrates architectural and landscape considerations; * Retain the woodland trees near the 1937 homestead group for context and scale; * The Birling estate core, comprising the 1812 homestead site area and that part of its early carriage drive that remains intact, should be nominated for listing on the SHR as well as included on the Camden LEP 2010 Schedule 5 as an item of State environmental heritage; * The 1937 Birling homestead site and its associated stables should be included on the Camden LEP 2010 Schedule 5 as an item of Local environmental heritage. 5 .1 .3 Mary land Estate

* The 19th century southern estate entry drive must be included in ILP planning considerations; * The 19th century southern entry drive remnant plantations must be included in ILP planning considerations; * The 19th century Maryland estate entry drive plantations should be conserved including reconstruction where they have lost earlier plantings; * The 19th century dam and plantation remnants (to the east of the Maryland ridge line) must be retained and conserved including all earlier timber fencing remnants and reconstruction of earlier plantings; * The home farm area must be conserved as the hub of the Maryland estate’s pastoral activities (including all 19th and early 20th century elements and archaeology) along with surviving groups of associated old Forest Red Gums and individuals; * Surviving remnants of the northern entry drive should be retained and incorporated into the ILP or otherwise interpreted; * The early estate road linking the homestead with the home farm must be retained within a conservation zone. Its retention also includes preserving its rural character (as much as possible) and alignment; * All early estate drives at the Maryland knoll summit must be retained; * The former drive at the bottom of the knoll linking the winery and the home farm must be retained; * The existing large poultry shed and fill to the northwest of the winery buildings should be removed and the former lower estate drive restored at this location; * The former ‘Entry Cottage’ access road and its link to the southern gate lodge drive must be retained; * The former Maryland vineyard areas (assumed to be mainly the northern slopes of the homestead knoll) must be conserved; * Consider exploratory archaeology to confirm location, form and layout of vineyard trenching; * The Maryland pleasure grounds, service garden and ‘back of house’ areas require a detailed site survey to accurately record surviving elements of cultural significance however before any surveying is undertaken, they need careful clearing of dense weed growth under expert supervision in order to more clearly reveal the many surviving elements of high cultural significance; * The remnant substantial entry gate ensembles at The Northern Road (north and south entries) as well as those defining the homestead core area must be conserved; * Remove other poultry sheds to the south of the winery buildings and restore ground levels where required; * Retain the post-1970 Hoop Pine near the step up dairy building at the home farm; * The recent gum introduced (self-sown opportunist?) on the northern knoll slope at Maryland needs to be removed as it is beginning to obscure significant views from and to the homestead;


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* Retain key views to the homestead knoll from some points along The Northern Road (especially that, if possible, from just south of the existing Birling turn-off), from the home farm and from the northern gate lodge; * Maryland needs all of its cultural landscape elements (as described in this report) and policy to be fully integrated within a CMP that also includes its architectural and archaeological considerations – the Maryland pleasure grounds, service garden and ‘back of house’ areas, in particular, require specific policies to guide their future management where a possible policy for these areas may entail their partial reconstruction in order to better complement future uses of the homestead group; * The Maryland estate heritage curtilage should include the existing southern entry drive as it is clear from archival and site evidence that it was intended as an important component of the 19th century estate planning; * The Camden LEP 2010 Schedule 5 should be updated to indicate the Maryland estate as an item of State environmental heritage. 5 .2 Mit igat ion of Her itage Impact 5 .2 .1 Reconci l ing Urban Planning with Heritage Conservat ion

With the urbanisation of the former Maryland and Birling estates already committed, there will inevitably be a loss of the traditional, characteristic broad-acre pastoral landscape. This also carries various implications for how retained historic elements are managed within a new urban environment. Such implications include: * Managing the planning and design of junctions between the urban areas (including roads) with retained estate elements; * Managing the ILP to ensure the appropriate retention and incorporation of significant outer estate elements (lines of access, former plantations and entry points - with their gate ensembles - at The Northern Road) that are beyond the designated conservation zone; and * Ensuring the retention of key historic views unimpeded by new – and potentially unsympathetic – urban elements. 5 .2 .2 Mit igatory Measures

Implementing the recommendations in the previous section will serve as an important step in helping to mitigate the inevitable heritage impacts associated with the future change in land uses. Additionally, some strongly advised mitigatory measures follow.

* Riparian Corridors Riparian corridors potentially have a critical role in assisting with the integration of the proposed urban areas. The implementation of the riparian corridors (either reinforcing existing sections and reconstructing those where the dams are currently located or otherwise cleared) are assumed to have the following considerations: – The whole network of riparian corridors will have the full height vegetation representation (low to tall species) as this will be vital to maximising screening; - The whole riparian network would be continuous with no substantial gaps apart from those necessary for proposed roads to pass through; - The work of establishing the riparian network would be prioritised early in the precinct implementation program; and


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- There would be appropriate and timely detailed coordination between the ecological consultants and the civil/hydraulic engineers to ensure the successful establishment of the riparian network.

* Street Tree/Public Domain Planting Program A carefully thought out public domain and street tree planting program for the LCM Precinct is another critical aspect required to support the implementation of the planning proposal. The applicable DCP should be a comprehensive document with appropriate guidelines to ensure the street hierarchy is well endowed with appropriate species with an emphasis on medium to large species so that a broad tree canopy will be evident throughout the urban areas surrounding Maryland. (If open space cannot be retained or designed around the historic core then there should be well-vegetated blocks such that the urban areas are little apparent from the core.) It is important that in views into and across the precinct, the impression will be of a built environment well integrated within an established landscape such as is the case with suburbs like Elderslie near Camden or parts of Canberra. In places, double avenues should be considered where a combination of medium and large scaled trees are used including in conjunction with pedestrian paths and cycleways.

* Hydraulic Basins Stormwater basin design should be coordinated with ecological consultants relative to maximising riparian corridors. Large gaps in the riparian corridors should be avoided or, where roads pass through, minimised as much as possible.

* Town Centre Layout The appearance from the Maryland knoll of large plate buildings in the proposed Town Centre should be minimised as much as possible using level changes and architectural planning and design. It is highly desirable to have as narrow an interface between the Town Centre built elements and the Maryland core as possible. Town Centre elements should also respect the scale and character of the home farm components that will also involve careful architectural planning and design to ensure an appropriate transition between the Town Centre and the home farm environment. The retention of the early home farm components needs to also include the retention of its associated mature Forest Red Gum woodland trees as this will also help integrate new structures in proximity to the old farm elements. Where necessary, additional buildings could be introduced in proximity to the older home farm buildings with the proviso that the new structures respect the old by being of similar scale, sympathetic in form and are grouped to make a ‘village’ or cluster of structures rather than a loose, meandering collection of unrelated buildings dotted over a large area. Any new elements should not visually compete with, confuse or dominate the existing home farm built group.

* LCM Precinct Residential Areas The zone between the Maryland knoll and southern ridgeline and adjacent planned residential areas is one of the most critical transitions. It is highly desirable that a predominantly landscape perceived zone forms a transition between the retained spaces within the Maryland conservation zone and planned residential areas. The urban development closest to the Maryland core should be as respectful as possible of the State significant cultural landscape adjacent to it. A control of buildings closest to the Maryland


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core should include limiting ridge heights to an appropriate minimum to avoid the perception that the remnant Maryland components are surrounded, and dominated, by urban development. The transition zone may also require special urban design treatments to provide a more visually low-key range of street elements and junctions to suit this very special environment. The emphasis in design treatments should be more ‘rural’ in character than CBD-type ‘urban’.

* Views from the Maryland knoll Traditionally, views out across the landscape from the Maryland knoll – particularly from the homestead area and its northern pleasure grounds – were of great importance and remain so. They constitute part of Maryland’s cultural significance and, after all, the homestead was specifically located and orientated to exploit views out across the adjacent landscape. An implication of this is that the design of new buildings throughout the planned urban precinct should respect these traditional views by carefully using forms, massing (in the case of the town centre buildings), materials, colours and managing reflectivity to avoid creating visually dominant and distracting elements.

* Urban Planning integration of the 1812 Birling Site

The site of the 1812 Birling homestead complex is one of State heritage significance. While a park space has always been included within the planning scheme to accommodate the site and its highly significant archaeological resources, it is also important to ensure the urban edges around it are sympathetic to it. This should ideally include a ‘softer’, less ‘hard-edged urban’ type of interface where landscape elements are more obvious.

* Roads Similar to the strategy for urban development adjacent to the Maryland core and conservation zone, it is highly desirable to ensure new roads located near these are of the most low-key character possible to reflect the ‘rural’ character of the Maryland core adjacent. Large scaled, high intensity collector roads are not appropriate in this context and would seriously detract from the character and appreciation of the highly significant historic core. New roads in close proximity to the Maryland conservation zone – including any proposed to the immediate north of the knoll - should be specially designed to minimise any ‘typical’ hard-edged (CBD-type) urban characteristics including standardised kerb and gutter treatments with utility and sign poles in abundance.

Documents

Cultural Landscape & Visual Context Review...Cultural Landscape & Visual Context Review of the Lowes Creek Maryland Precinct SEPTEMBER 2018 ABOVE A view across Maryland’s southeastern