CULT WINES 1 - NORTHERN MEDOC: SAINT-ESTÈPHE & PAUILLAC On a blustery rain-swept morning we arrived in Saint-Estèphe, the most northerly-located top-rated Medoc appellation, with

BORDEAUX 2014 REPORT

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CULT WINESS O L U T I O N S F O R F I N E W I N E

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BORDEAUX 2014

BORDEAUX 2014 CONTENTS

PAGE 3. DAY ONE (SAINT-ESTÈPHE & PAUILLAC)Estates covered in this section of the report: • Montrose • Calon Segur • Pichon Baron • LafiteRothschild • Pontet Canet • MoutonRothschild • Cosd’Estournel • Lynch Bages • Latour

PAGE 11. DAY TWO (SAUTERNES & PESSAC-LEOGNAN)Estates covered in this section of the report: • Climens • Rieussec • Yquem • Haut Brion • La Mission Haut Brion

PAGE 15. DAYTHREE (SAINT EMILION & POMEROL)Estates covered in this section of the report: • Pavie • Cheval Blanc • Evangile • TroplongMondot • Angelus • Clinet • Ausone • Vieux Chateau Certan • Le Pin • Eglise Clinet

PAGE 23. DAYFOUR (SAINT JULIEN & MARGAUX)Estates covered in this section of the report: • Léoville Poyferré • Ducru Beaucaillou • Leoville Las Cases • Margaux • Palmer

The report also contains notes on: Le Dome, Clos Fourtet, Figeac, La Mondotte, Valandraud, Conseillante, Le Gay and Péby Faugères.

PAGE 29. ESTIMATEDRELEASE PRICETABLE




BORDEAUX 2014

BORDEAUX 2014 DAY1-NORTHERNMEDOC:SAINT-ESTÈPHE&PAUILLAC

Onablusteryrain-sweptmorningwearrivedinSaint-Estèphe,themostnortherly-locatedtop-ratedMedocappellation,withmutedanticipation.EveryyearwestillnaïvelyharkbacktotheglorioustastingconditionsforEnPrimeur2010(April2011)whenthetoughjoboftastingoneofthegreatestBordeauxvintagesfrombarrelwasmadeworsebywall-to-wallsunshineand25˚C+temperatures.This,however,hasprovenoverthepastsixyearstohavewellandtrulybeenananomaly.

Butwewerequietlyenthusiastic,asearlyreportssuggestedthatthenorthernMedocestatesperformedwellin2014’suniquegrowingconditions.Cabernetgrapeswereundoubtedlythestaroftheshowin2014,asitsmorerobustnaturefaredbetterwiththehistoricallymildandwetsummermonths,followedbytheunusuallydryandhotharvestmonthsofSeptember

FIRSTSTOP: CHATEAU MONTROSE

Therecent70millioneurorenovationofChateauMontroseneverceasestoimpressandinhonourofthe200thanniversaryofthevineyardthegrandeurofthecellarroomwillhostthisyear’s2015FêtedelaFleurinJune,whenitwillwelcome1,000guestsfromthegreatandthegoodofBordeaux.

WewerepresentedwiththethreewinesfromtheMontrose:TronquoyLalande,leDamedeMontroseandMontrose.

Theformerwasanice,classicstyle,withaslightmajorityofMerlot(55%)toCabernetSauvignon(45%).Itmaybelackedinconcentration,butthefruitwasevidentwithamoredelicatestyleslightlyoverpoweredbyacidity.

ThesecondwineofMontrosewascertainlyanimprovementonthe2013,andhavingrecentlyenjoyedtastingthe2010withafewyears’bottleageit’salwaysworthrememberingthatthisisastyleofwinethatwillmakeformoreearlierdrinking.Only37%ofthetotalproductionmadeitintothesecondwine,andthismoreapproachable,lighterstyleoftheGrandVinshouldbeapleasurabledrinker.

TheGrandVinconsistedof61%CabernetSauvignon,30%Merlotandthereturnthisyearof8%CabernetFranc(whichdidn’tfeaturein2013).Althoughthiswasthefirstwineoftheweekanddifficulttobenchmarkinthecontextofthevintage,itreallydidimpress,withveryfragrantfruitaromasandamoredelicatethanusualstyleforthisnorthernMedocestate.Thetanninswereevidentbutsoftandwellintegrated.Thefruitshowedagreatlevelofconcentrationandtheaciditycutthrough beautifully to hint that this is a wine that will be very well balanced.Notawinethatwilllivefor100yearssuchas2010,butonethatshouldnonethelessageanddevelopgracefully.

Thebigtalkingpointfor2014isprice–asalwaysseemstobethecaseforEnPrimeurthesedays–andwiththe2012and2013beingreleasedat€57.60,aconsistentpriceforthisyear’svintagewillmakeitthebestbuyofthethree.However,withthecurrentexchangeratethiswouldmakethewineavailableataround£505/12ex-negociant.Withthe2004(91pts),2007(91pts)and2008(95pts)tradingatasimilarpricelevelit’sdifficulttomakeastrongcaseforpurchasingasaprimeurifreleasedatthisprice.

However,forcollectorsthiswillnodoubtberememberedasastrongyearforthisestate.

Scoressofar: Montrose 2014 94-97 pts (WS)94-95 pts (JS)


PRE-MATCHWARMUP


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BORDEAUX 2014

SECONDSTOP: THE HEART OF SAINT-ESTÈPHE

IntheheartofStEstepheyouwillfindananomalyoftheBordeauxwinetrade;LaurentDufau,whotalksopenlyandhonestlyaboutthesignificanceofmaintainingtheBordeauxsystemwhilserecognisingtheneedforchangetobetterrepresentthedemandsnowbeingplacedbythemarket. ThismaybedrivenbyLaurent’spreviouslifeastheGMofanotableBordeauxnegociant–hehasthereforesatonbothsidesofthefence.

Laurent,asyoucanthenimagine,isabigsupporteroftheEnPrimeursystemandthisrhetorichasbeenbackedupbyfairpricingin2011(€39.60),2012(€37.20)and2013(€37.20).Thesereleaseshavecomeinthefaceofdemandsfromkeyboardmemberstoincreasepricing,whilereferringtothegrowingglobalreputationandsuccessofthelastfewcampaigns.EstateownersandinsurancefirmSuravenirarerightto promote the commercial value of this wine but the technical teamandinvolvementofMouiexhasenabledCalonSegurtoprovidetheoxygentobreathenewlifeintoarecuperatingmarket.Assuch,weanticipateasensibleandveryviablereleaseforthe2014.

LaurentwaskeentoexpresstheimportanceofachievingtherightbalanceofMerlottomarrywiththekingCabernetinordertoensurethefinesseandcontinuityofthewine.Forthisvintage,webelievetheyhaveachievedthis.

Wewerepresentedthreewines:Capbern(formerlyCapbernGasqueton),CalonSegurandLeMarquisdeCalonSegur.

Firstimpressionswerenotofthewinebuttherevampedlabelsinrecognitionoftheneedtomodernise;aphilosophythattranscendsthroughoutthisestate.OnewouldimaginethatthisdecisionwillhaveverystrongimplicationsamongAsianbuyers(andforValentine’sDaygifthuntersperhaps).

CalonSegurconsistedof66%CabernetSauvignon,13%CabernetFranc,19%Merlotand2%PetitVerdot.

Manyestateshavereferredtothesimilaritiesinfloweringandblendingprocesswiththe2009and2010vintages.Wearenotforoneminutesuggestingthe2014isatthoselevelsintermsofqualitybutitcertainlyappealsmorethan2012andLaurentdescribedthisvintageassimilarto2008withmorefinesse.The2008(90pts)iscurrentlyavailableat£480.00percaseandthe2012(90-92pts)isavailableat£420.00per12.

Ifpricingisthesameas2012,whichiswhatwewereledtobelieve,thisisawinethatwillcertainlysellverywell.At€37.20ex-negociant,buyerscouldpotentiallybuythe2014at£390per12ex-London(23%lessthanthe2008).

Scoressofar: Calon Segur 93 pts (TA) 93-94 pts (JS)




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THIRDSTOP: PICHON’S BANG ON

Adonationofa19thcenturybottleofPichonBaronmeantthatourcardwasmarkedbytheestate’shierarchyuponentrancetotheestate.WelcomedbyagaggleoftheBaron’srepresentativesweenjoyedtheBordeauxwinesbelongingtotheAXAportfoliobeforebeingwhiskedoffforlunch.

Thewinesatthelow-tomid-levelwereacceptablebutnothingtogetexcitedabout(Pibran,PetitVillageandTourelleswerestraightforwardstylesbutlackeddepthandcomplexity).Thisslightlyunderwhelmingexperiencehoweveronlyservedtoheightenthetastingofthe2014PichonBaronGrandVin,whichimpressedourwholeteamandforoneindividual,portfoliomanagerSamMudie,stoodaboveallelseonthatfirstday.

Classicalinblend,thepurity,richnessandconcentrationoffruitreallystoodout.Superbweightwithsoftintegratedtanninslendsitselftogoodageingcredentials,whilethelongfinishwithnotesofmochakeptushankeringformore.Bravo.

WethengotourfirsttasteofoneoftheBordeauxwhitesfor2014:‘S’deSuduiraut.Acategorythatverymuchlivesintheshadowofitsredwinecounterparts,thewhitesshowedextremelywellallweek–withsomeparticularstandouts.Thewhitesclearlyenjoyedthegrowingconditionsof2014whichproducedhighlevelsofacidity.Butwherethewhiteshavereallystoodoutisinthewinemakers’skillintemperingthislively,freshandexplosiveaciditywithconcentratedfruit,creatingaharmoniousanduniquebalance.ThiswascertainlythecaseforthedrywhitewineproducedbytheSauternesestate,Suduiraut.

Followingatoughmorningtastingprimeurs,weallowedourpalettestonormaliseoverlunchwhereweenjoyedboththe2008and2004vintageofPichonBaron.Thiswasthethirdtimeoverthelast12monthswe’vetastedthe2008anditcontinues

tobequiteclosedandshutdown.Definitelyawinetocellarforafewmoreyearsyet.The2004incontrasthadstartedtoopenupandprovidedveryenjoyabledrinking;agreatwineandclassicallyPauillac.

Scoressofar: Pichon Baron 92-95 pts (WS) 95-96 pts (JS)

FOURTHSTOP: LAFITE’S PORTACABIN (PRIMEUR PARADOX)ForthosewhohavenevervisitedChateauLafite-RothschildduringEnPrimeurnorduringanyothertimeoftheyear,Iimagineyouwouldconjureupacertainidea,animage,anexpectationperhapsofwhatitwouldbeliketotasteatoneofthemostfamedestatesnotjustinBordeauxbutinthewholeworld.

Afterall,thisisanestatewithanalmostunparalleledheritageandhistoryofmakingsomeoftheworld’sgreatestwines,ownedbyaEuropeanbankingdynasty.

Unfortunately,theideaofnoexpensesparedtowelcometheir1,500+guestsfortheweekissadlylostontheLafiteestatehierarchy.PerhapsLafitebelievesitsreputationissuchthatitsguestsdon’trequirethefanfare,orthatitsguestsshouldbehonouredtobepresentatall.Orperhapsthesheerdemandandnumberstheyhavetocaterforinprimeursweekmeansthatit’sjustnotfeasibletoreplicatethetypeofexperienceyou’reaffordedatLatour,Cos,HautBrionandthelike.

LAFITE’SPORTACABINHOLDINGPEN



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Idowonder,though,whetherthisisdetrimental.Weallknowtheimpactexternalfactorscanhaveonwinetasting.Environment,smell,company,(inebriation!),food–istheresomethinginit,fortheseestatestorollouttheredcarpetduringprimeurs?

Nowtothematterathand,theactualtasting.Thethreewinesonshowexudedanairofsub-expectations.Doweexpecttoomuch?I’mnotsure.Criticalopinionwoulddisagree.JamesSucklinghasawarded97-98ptsforLafite.We’renotsayingitwasbad–itwasn’t–itjustisn’tasextroverted,flamboyantorexcitingassomeoftheothertopnamesinthisvintage.

Duhart-Milon,aFourthGrowthinitsownright,displayedniceconcentrationoffruitandhadanappealingcharacter,butlackedabitofdepthandseemedtohollowoutandfallawaytowardstheend.Carruadeshasdefinitelysteppedupinqualityagainstthepreviousfewyearsandsitswellamongstthiscompanyconsideringitssecondwinestatus–perhapsaconcertedeffortbythechateautoraisequality?

NowtotheGrandVin.Forme,IhavealwaysfoundthisatoughwinetotasteEnPrimeurasitdoesn’twowasmuchasthe approachable Mouton or showcase as much precision as Latour.Itofferedaveryperfumednosewithhintsofvioletandrose–almostfeminineinitsbouquetstyle.Onthepaletteitexhibitedasolidstructure,andtanninswereinevidencewithahintofspiceandvivacitytowardsthefinish.

Allinall,agoodwineforthevintageandasolideffortfromLafite.IdidaskthequestiontocertainnegociantsofthisanomalyIfindwhentastingLafiteprimeurs,anditwasagreedthatagainstitsPauillacpeersitisn’tnecessarilytheshowiestofwinesinthisstageofearlydevelopment.Happytobowtothosewithgreaterexpertiseandexperience,Icanunderstandthehigh

scoresifit’stobeassumedthatwhatwetastedatEnPrimeurwillonlygetbetterandbetter.

Thequestionofprice?Ifnegociantsandwinemakersaretobebelieved,thenwecanexpectpricestogoup5-10%onlastyearandperhapsatthelevelofthe2012release.IfthisisthecasewithLafite,thenwecouldbelookingat€288-€335eurosperbottle(ex-negociant).Thiswouldresultinanex-merchantpriceof£3,250-£3,500percase.

Withthe2008tradingat£5,250/12(+50%)thenthereisanobviousattractionforbuyerstoseriouslyconsideraddingLafite2014totheircollections.

Scoressofar: Carruades Lafite 92-93 pts (JS) Duhart Milon 92-93 pts (JS) Lafite Rothschild 94-97 pts (WS) 97-98 pts (JS)

FIFTHSTOP: PONTIFF CANETAndsotoPontetCanet,orshouldIsayPontiffCanetgivenAlfredTesseron’sclearpositionasthefirstPopeofBiodynamics(andhorsewhispering)inBordeaux?

Thisestatehasbeenleadingthewayinbiodynamicviticultureforsomeyearsandrecentresultsarereflectedinsomeverygoodwinesevenindifficultvintages.Itwouldappear2014willbenoexceptionbutIhaveaminorgripewiththeVatican’sA-team,inthattheyneedtocommunicatewiththeirclientsinthesamewaytheycommunewithvines.



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Forthemostpart,there’snotmuchnottolikeaboutPontet,theteamorthewines.ButperhapstheindignantresponsebythemarkettoPontet’s2013EnPrimeurploy(releasingthewinebeforeitwaseventasted)hasleftasourtasteinthePontet’steamwhichresultedinacolder,lessengagingexperience thanusual.

Neverthelessitwasthewinethatwastheretobejudgedandasexpecteditfirmlythrustitselfintothetopechelonsofwinesmadein2014.Expressiveonthenosewithhintsofprimaryfruitsandmenthol,thisisastructuredandtannicwineatthisstagewithgreatweight,andtheaciditybringsfreshnesswhichisbeautifullybalanced.Withtimethough,thewinedevelopedfurtherandexhibitedsomeharmoniouslyseductivefruit.

Asmentioned,PontetCanet,unafraidofdoingthingsdifferently,releasedtheir2013onthemarketbeforeitwasevenavailabletotaste.Atapriceof€60ex-negociant,itwasthesameas2012andsoforthisvintagewewouldexpecttoseeasimilarpricelevel(andatworstasmallincrease).Evenso,itwillremaintobeseenif€60,whichwillresultin£600-£625/12ex-merchantprice,willigniteconsumers’interest,especiallywiththe2004,2006and2008availableforthesameprice,orevenless.

Scoressofar: Pontet Canet 95-96 pts (JS)

SIXTHSTOP: ‘MAYBE SHE’S BORN WITH IT, MAYBE IT’S MOUTON’Ourheadbuyerdecidedhehadtoomanyemailstoactuallyattendthetasting,butlittledidheknowthatinsteadofthetypicalgolfbuggyandtastingroomscrumscenariothatistypicallyreservedformeremortals,wehadbeenelevatedtoprivatetastingroomstatus,whichofcoursehaditsdesiredeffectofimmediatelyendearingustothe2014wines fromMouton!

WithenoughroomtoswingtheproverbialJeroboamofMouton2000thatwasforsaleintheirshopfor€14,000,theCultWinesteamattackedtheMoutonstablewithraucousenthusiasm.

Wefoundhomogenousqualityacrossallofthewinesonshow,inthisorder:Mouton,PetitMouton,ClercMilonandd’Armailhac.AndletusnotforgetthebeautifulwhiteAileD’Argent,whichagainshowcasedthestrengthofthewhites in2014.

D’ArmailhacandClerc,FifthGrowthwinesintheirownright,showedverywellindeed.Theformerseducedwithdelicatearomasandonthepaletteexpressedround,approachableripefruit.Thelatterwascertainlybroader,butwasatadfresherandlivelieronthefinish.



BORDEAUX 2014


ForLePetitMoutondeMoutonRothschild–whichclientsandreadersofourswillknowofmoreaffectionatelyas‘theonlywinetomakereturnsatEnPrimeur’–liveduptoitsbilling.Ihavehadmanyvintagesofthiswinenow,andIamalwaysamazedatitsapproachability,consistencyandthesheerenjoymentitoffers.Therewasalovelytoastyscentofnewoakonthenosewhichtemptedyouinandthepalettewassilky,well-balancedandlusciousinripefruit,withhintsofspice.Itdid,however,lackthatextradimensionthatthemainwinepossesses,butnonethelesswaswellreceivedbyall.

Thisyear’sMoutonRothschildconsistedof81%CabernetSauvignon,16%Merlot,3%CabernetFranc–averysimilarassemblagetothe2008vintage.Thenosewascertainlyclosedandrestrained,butwherethislackedthewinemorethanmadeupforupontasting,withfantasticpurityandconcentrationoffruit,silkysmoothtanninsandvelvet-liketexture.Therewasatouchofmineralitywithasalineedge,whichbalancedbeautifullywiththefreshnessbroughtfrom2014’sacidity.Thisisawinethatwillageverywell(tanninshigherthanin2010)butwillbeapproachablesooneranddrinkeffortlessly.

Atrulysuperbtastingwithveryelegantanddelineatedwines,Moutonisastarofthevintage.Similarassemblagetothe2008yetmorerefinedandelegant.AMoutontolast,aMoutontocollectandaMoutontobuy.

Price-wiseareturnto2012of€240ex-negociantlooksmostlikely.Atthislevel,theconsumerwouldbebuyingataround£2,500/12whichgiventhequalityofthisvintageisanottoounreasonableaprice.PetitMoutonwasreleasedat€66forthepasttwovintagesandthathasworkedexceptionallywell.Thehopeisthechateaudoesn’tgetgreedyandpushthepriceup.Evenata10%increase(72)itwillstillworkverywell.

Scoressofar: Mouton Rothschild 95-98 pts (WS) 96-97 pts (JS) Petit Mouton 93-94 pts (JS)

SEVENTHSTOP: COS YOU’RE WORTH ITThisestateisconsistent.Perchedonitshillwithaperfectvistaacrosstoitsillustriousneighbour,LafiteRothschild,thelavishnessoftheinteriordesignandtheincrediblyexpensivewineryre-designexudestheairofa5*starresort.HandwrittenpersonalisedtastingbookletshighlighttheextramileCosiswillingtogo–literallynoexpenseisspared.Whichisbothintriguingandstrikinglyobvious.Intriguing,duetothefactthatCoshasquiteclearlyoverpriceditslastthreevintagereleasesandhasstruggledtosellthrough,ifatall.Strikinglyobvious,becauseforCosd’Estournel’smulti-millionaireownerMichelReybier,‘it’sworthit’.



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AccordingtoLiv-ex’sEnPrimeurreport:‘Coshasconsistentlyoutperformeditspeergroupinqualitytermswithanaveragescoreof93.5pts.ButhighreleasepriceshavemadethebrandoneoftheleastattractivetobuyEnPrimeur.’Consistent.Andthesamewillbeexpectedagainin2014.

PresentedwithallthewinesfromtheCosestate,therewasn’tonesamplethatdisappointed.TheGoulée,afantasticallydesignedandbranded(moreaffordable)winemaintaineditsconsistencyandfavouritismwiththeCultWinesteam.ThesecondwineofCos–Pagodes–wasequallyimpressive,withits55%CabernetSauvignon,43%Merlotand2%PetitVerdotblend.Coolandfresh,withhintsofmentholleadingintoastructuredpalette,withanicepurityoffruit.

TheGrandVinexhibitsarealspicyedgewithalovelyheatrunningthroughout.Thiswineisbig,structured,andtanninsareevidentbutsmooth.TherearesavouryelementsalsowhichenvelopthepureCabernetintoalongfinish.Agreateffort.

So,importantlyontoprice.DoweexpectCostolowerprices?No,theremaywellbeanincreasetothe2012level(€89ex-negociant).Thiswillplaceitveryunfavourablyincomparisontomanyoftheirbackvintages,whichwillundoubtedlyscareoffanypotentialbuyers.Giventhatthecurrentpriceoftheirlastfourvintagesareallbelowtheirreleaseprice,itdoesn’tpaytobuyEnPrimeurhere.

Scoressofar: Cos d’Estournel 96-97 pts (JS)

EIGHTHSTOP: THE UNITED NATIONS OF LYNCH BAGESWhatdoIsrael,Iran,USAandFrancehaveincommon?Giveup?They’retheflagsthatflyfullmastoutsidetheLynchBagesestateinPauillac.WewereasinquisitiveasI’msureyouaretoknowwhythesecountriesinparticulararerepresentedhereatLynchBages.

TheansweristhateachflagrepresentsanationalityoftheCazesextendedfamily.ApparentlythethreedaughtersareseparatelymarriedtoanIranian,anAmericanandanIsraeli.It’snicetoseethatthey’renotjustfocusedonmakinggreatwinesherebutalsoarecommittedtomakingprogressforpeaceintheMiddleEast.

Butoutsideoftheirundoubtedlydiplomaticcredentials,greatwinestheydomake.LynchBagesisundoubtedlyoneofthemostfamousandwell-knownbrandsofallofBordeaux.

The2014vintageiswithoutdoubtareturntoformforachateauthathasunder-performedinthepastcoupleofvintages.Thenoseisexplosivelyexpressivealready,withboysenberry,cassisandclassicpureCabernetfruitnotes.Withtanninlevelsalmostashighas2010andwithaciditywellabovetheaverage,thisisabigandlivelywineforthevintage:muscular,strongandstructured.Thereisalsoanicehintofmineralitythroughthepaletteandfinish,whichislongandfocused.Agreateffortallround.

PriceforLynchBagesdroppedto€50ex-negociantforthe2013vintage,down€10fromthe2012.Iworrythatduetothequalitytheestatewon’tkeepitat2013levels,andwiththerecentresurgenceindemandforLynchBages(supportedbytwoorthreenegociantsinBordeaux)I’msuretheyareawarethattheirwinewillsellthrougheasilyatthislevel.

Ifweassumeatworsttheywillraisethepricetothe2012releaseprice(althoughhopefullynot)at€60ex-negociant,theconsumerwillbebuyingat£600-£630/12.

Consideringthe2006,2007and2008vintagesareworth£750-£800percaseatpresent,itcouldrepresentoneofthebestbuysofthevintage.Ifthechateaumaintainsits2013price,thenconsumerscouldrealisticallypickitupat£525per12.

CurrentScores: Lynch Bages 93-96 pts (WS) 95-96 pts (JS)



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LASTSTOP: LATE NIGHT AT LATOUR SeeingasLatourliketodothingsdifferently,suchasleavingtheEnPrimeursystem,wethoughtwewoulddothingsdifferentlybyrockinguptoourfinaltastingofthedaywaybeyondduskforanearlyeveningtaste.ConsideringtheLatour2003wasupforgrabs,itmadesensetoleavethebestsensoryexperienceofthedayuntillast.

IfMoutonexudesclassicismandLafitenonchalance,thenthelast of the Pauillac First Growths gives you the feeling of a post-modernistSwedisharchitect.Angular,sleekmodernfurniture,coffeebooktomes,discerninglyhighceilings,70”plasmascreenTVs,slategreyandlifesizepaintingsofzebraswelcomeyouforatastinginLatour’srecentlyrenovatedcellarsandtastingrooms.They even have light bulbs on show symbolically representing theirideatoleavetheEnPrimeursystem–brightspark.

Asisnowtradition,LatourshowcasessixwinesatEnPrimeur.Firstlytheypresenttheir2014sbutalsothethreebackvintagestheyrecentlyreleasedontothemarket.AfewweeksbeforeEnPrimeur,Latourreleasedex-cellarcasesofForts2008,Pauillac2011andthe100ptLatour2003.

Inawayitseemsmoreprudenttospeakofthesethreere-releases,asyoucanactuallybuythese,ratherthanthe2014swhichpotentiallymaynotbeavailableuntiltheyarereadytobedrunk.Giventhetwo-yearageingandbottlingprocess,fortheGrandVinatleast,itmeansLatour2014maynotbeavailableuntilaftertheWorldCupinQatar.Thatrendersthesenotesandcriticscoresalmostirrelevant–butIsupposeit’salwaysnicetoknowwhatyoucouldbedrinkingtocelebrateEngland’sfirstworldcuptriumphsince1966.

Togivethewinestheirdues,theyareofcoursevery,verygood.Infact,Latourin2014isvyingfortopposition.It’saprecisewine,withphenomenalpurityoffruit,greatfreshnessandsilky,finetannins.

Theshowstopperoftheday,andtheperfecttonicfortastingprimeurs,wasthe2003Latour.Therichnessofthiswineisstunningandtheconcentrationofripefruitisthroughtheroof.Youcantastetheheatofthisvintageintheprofileofthefruitflavour–it’sroast-like,withaspicetoit.It’salsostartingtoexhibitsometertiarynotesofleatherandclassicmatureBordeauxnotes.Perhapsthisisanindicationthatthe2003swon’tlastlong-distance?Forthetimebeing,it’snotaworryasitstillhastanninstoshedandpotentiallyhasroomtoimprovefurther.Itfinisheswithsomedarkernotesofchocolateandcoffee.Thisisnotadelicate,preciseLatour.The2003isopulentanddecadent.

Withadouble100fromParkerandSuckling,it’snosurprisethatLatourchosetore-releasethisvintage–clearlyitwasinneedofsomethingthatwasgoingtosellbetterthanitspreviouschoices.Pricewaskeythisyearthough,andhopefullyotherchateauxwilllookatthesuccessLatourhadwiththis2003re-releasewhichat£5,950madeitcheaperthantherestoftheavailablesecondarymarket(around£6,500)–only1,000casesweremadeavailablebutitsoldoutimmediately.

IftherestofBordeauxfollowsuitandreleasetheir2014ssothat they are cheaper than any available physical vintage of their wines,thentheyshouldsellwell.Latour2003provedthat.

CurrentScores: Latour 98 – 99 pts (JS)



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BORDEAUX 2014 DAY2-BORDEAUXFollowingagruellingdayracingaroundSaint-EstèpheandPauillac(nocomplaints),Tuesdaywascertainlysettobeaneasier-goingdayonthepalates–orsowethought.

MORNING: STARTING WITH THE STICKIES!Thedaykickedoffinstyle,payinghomagetoourfavouriteSauternesestatesandsamplingtheleadingsweetwhitesof thevintage.

OurfirststopwasChâteauClimens–oneofourpreferredtastingseachyear–whereagainstthenormforEnPrimeurweek,technicaldirectorFrédéricNivelletookusthroughthecellartastingtheindividualcomponentbarrelsthatwillformthe2014vintage.Whatajoythiswas.Ratherthansimplysamplingtheexpectedfinalproduct,itisfascinatingtocomparethesixdifferentbatches(all100%Semillon)andtheirdistinctcharacters,andtodream–asthatistheappropriateword–oftheendresult.

Fortunately,wedidnothavetowaitfortoolongtofindout.Onceawayfromthecellarwewerefacedwithastunningline-upofthemostrecentvintagesofClimensanditssecondwineCyprèsdeClimens.Thedevelopmentfromthe2009tothe2013ismagnificent,acrosstheboardshowingsmoothbouquetofhoneysuckle,caramelandtropicalfruitswithtypicalalmondandfignotesonthepalate.The2011isonetosetasideforthelong-term;whilethe2009hasalreadyopenedupintoa seriousoffering!

Asistradition,directorPhilipGearinglefttheestatewithafewbottlestoreplenishthedepletedstocksatourtastingroom.We’llbesuretoletyouknowhowtheygo.

Characteristicallymodestwithalltheirtastingseachyear,BarondeRothschild’sSauternesestate,Rieussec,wasupnext.Astraightforwardtastingwasenoughtoshowthemorepowerfulsweetwine:similartropicalpineappleandmangoonthenosebutwithmorespiceandcitrusalongsidethefamiliarhoney(93%Semillon,5%SauvignonBlanc,2%Muscadelle).Morefruitythanoverlysweet–soclosetoClimensinlocationbutverydifferentinstyle.Thecommonthemeforbothisthatwhilequalityishigh,productionlevelsareverylow,withahigherpercentageofthecropmakingitintothefirstwines.

OurfinalappointmentofthemorningwasatthelegendaryChâteaud’Yquem.Thegold-coveredbookletwearehandedonarrivalsetthemoodforthemostfamoussweetwineintheworldandthewinealwayslivesuptothereputation.The2014isnoexception.Oncewehadbeenguidedthroughpagesofgraphsillustratingthevintage’sweatherandharvestschedule–asisstandardhere,muchtotheenjoymentofthemoretechnically-orientatedmembersoftheteam–wewerepresentedwithjustasingleglasseachofYquem(thedrywhite‘YdeYquem’isnotreadytotasteatthispoint).‘Luxurious’comesclosetodescribingthisrelease,but‘exotic,richly-honeyedwithasuperbbalanceofcitrusfruits,peach(orwasitnectarine?)andvanillapodandacrispaciditytofinish’comescloser.

WhileweareallfirmfansoftheseSauternesfordrinking,theinvestmentmarketissomewhatmuteontheircurrentpotential.Attention has been elsewhere for the last few years but this couldverywellbethevintagethatreturns‘nectar’totheinvestor’smind.

Scoressofar: Rieussec (97-98) JS Yquem (97-98) JS 97 TA



BORDEAUX 2014


MIDDAY: NEGOCIANT TASTINGFromSauternes,weheadedtotheofficesofoneofourkeynegociantsforanafternoonoftastingsandlunch.Theirmainwarehouse bore resemblance to an exhibition at the Tate Modern,withtheseeminglyendlessrowsofthefinestofwinesonlyjustvisibleinthedarknessandonlydimlightingtoshowtheredcarpetleadingtoaprivatetastingroomdrapedinstringlightsattheendofanaisle.ThoughtsgobacktoLafiteandreceivingverymuchtheoppositereception.

Herewetackledtheenviabletaskofmakingourwaythroughthe‘catalogue’ofBordeaux2014sthatwewillnothavethetimetovisitpersonallythisweek(andafewthatwewill,justtobesure).ThewhitesofGravesshowedgreatacidityandfruit,withlemonsherbet,elderflower,mintandlycheecroppingupfrequently–DomainedeChevalier(70%SauvignonBlanc,30%Semillon)andPapeClementBlanc(45%SauvignonBlanc,45%Semillon,10%Muscadelle)stoodoutfromthecrowd.

Ontothereds,workingthroughaseriesofgoodMargauxchateaux(withBrane-Cantenac,RauzanSeglaandLascombesleadingtheway),throughverygoodStJuliens(BeychevelleandtheLeovilles:Poyferre,BartonandLasCases,arguablyinascendingpreference)andpotentiallygreatPauillacs(GrandPuyLacoste,PichonLalandeandPetitMoutonfortheseconddayinarow).RightBanksfollowed,withamixedbagofStEmilion(ClosFourtet,BeausejourDuffau,TroplongMondont,PebyFaugeresandLaMondottewilldobetterthanothers)andfinishingwithPomerol(LeGayandClinetwerethewinnershere).

WINES TO WATCHLeoville Poyferre will be of particular interest if the release pricecancomebelowthe2012and2013–€43.20and€38.40respectively.

If Leoville Las Cases can be consistent in price with the last twovintages,bothreleasedat€79,itwillbeonetosnapupatanapproximate15%discountonthe2008.

Clos Fourtethasagreattrackrecordofperformanceoverthelastfewyearsbutthelastthreevintageshavebeenreleasedtoohigh(around€46/bottleex-negociant).Releasepriceforcomparablevintages2006and2008were€32and€25.80perbottlerespectivelysothatisthedirectionwewanttoseethepriceheading.Thetargetwillbetoofferthistoclientsacloseto£425/12aspossible.

Troplong Mondot have been reliable in lowering release prices graduallysince2010buttheyhavestillstruggledtofindamarket.Ifthepricecomesdowninlinewithpreviousdecreases,thisshouldbethebestvaluevintagesince2008.Ifitdoesn’t,itwillgothesamewayasthe2012:down.

Clinetlooksverypromisingbutwillbecoveredinmoredetaillaterinthisreport.

Eleven whites, 35 reds and 20 bottles of ‘artisan’ Voss water over two and a half hours… and breathe!

“Lunchisserved.”Platesuponplatesofbite-sizedlocalspecialities–foranyonethathasvisitedBordeauxbeforeknowsthatinvolvesalotofFoieGras!To accompany these sumptuous ‘snacks’,wehadabeautifullysweetandfullbodiedGrandPuyLacoste2005,whichshowedcassis,leather

andtobaccoonthenosewithrichblackcurrant,cinnamonandahintofdarkchocolate.AtthispointwewerejoinedbythePresidentofthenegociantwhogaveushisthoughtsonthecampaignaheadandthankedusforourongoingcustom–weassuredhimthatthebestpriceswillkeepuscomingback!

Scoressofar: Leoville Poyferre (93-94) JS (92-95) WS 93 TA Leoville Las Cases (96-97) JS (94-97) WS 96 TA Clos Fourtet (91-92) JS Troplong Mondot (93-94) JS (92-95) WS 90 TA



BORDEAUX 2014


AFTERNOON: ALL HAIL THE GODS OF GRAVESOntothefinaltastingofthedayandonethathasagoodcaseforfeaturinginthetopthreeoftheweek.ThismaybedowntothefactthatthesunshoneforthefirsttimesincewearrivedonSundaymorning,ortheidyllicsetting(theChâteau,certainlynotthesurroundingtown),butreally,DomaineClarenceDillon’swinesimpressedthemost.ThesearemorecommonlyknownasQuintus,LaMissionHautBrion(wherethetastingwasheldthisyear)andHautBrion.

LMHBandHautBrionalwaysputonagoodtasting,givingtheupmostattentionandeffortwhiletheytakeyouthroughthevintageandeachofthewinesthatarecarefullylinedupinfrontofyou.Startingwiththesecondwines,weworkedthroughLeDragondeQuintus,LaChapelledeLaMissionHautBrionandLeClarencedeHautBrion.Allverygoodeffortsandworthseekingoutassoliddrinkingstocks.Thenthemainevent:StEmilionChâteauQuintus(69%Merlot,31%

CabernetSauvignon),nowinitsfourthvintageandjuststartingtoestablishitselfasabig-hitter,wasfullofsummerberriesandspicedapple,withsmoothandsofttanninsandansurprisinglylongfinish.LaMissionHautBrion(54%Merlot,45%CabernetSauvignon,1%CabernetFranc)hasawonderfullyexpansiveandlayerednoseofredberries,liquorice,oakandleatherwithverychewyandgrippytanninsandadistinctmineralityonthefinish.Thelastofthereds,HautBrion(50%Merlot,39%CabernetSauvignon,11%CabernetFranc)wasadelight:cinnamonandripeblackberriesmixedwithwoodynotesandahintofalmostcandyfloss,full-bodied,smoothandsilkyonthepalatewithanoutstandinglongfinish.

LaMissionHautBrion,morethanmostinBordeaux,needstobeexceptionallysharponpricing.UnclassifiedandonaveragethemostexpensivewineintheLeftBank200index,consumersareawareofthepremiumthiswinecancommand.ThefactthatreleasepricechangessosignificantlyeachvintagesuggeststhatthechateauisalsoawarethatmispricingwillleadtoanotherfailingEnPrimeurcampaign.Thiswillbeabettervintagethanthe2013whichfailedat€120,sofingerscrossedthereisapositiveresponse.

AlongwithMoutonRothschild,HautBrionhasbeengettingclosetotherightpriceforthelastcoupleofyears.Close,butnotquiteonthemark.Bearinginmindtheverywellscored2006and2008(both96points)arebothcurrentlyavailableforaround£2,550/12,the2014hastobeavailableata15%discounttomakesensefortheconsumer.IfHautBrioncandothis,we’reontoawinner.

NotonlyhasdeputyMDofDomaineClarenceDillon,Jean-PhilippeDelmas,beenquotedassaying:“Ifthisyeardoesn’tworkthenIthinkitwillbeoneofthelastEnPrimeurcampaigns,”butthePresidentofthecompany,PrinceRobertofLuxembourg,alsorecentlydefendedthepracticeofpurchasingBordeauxbeforeitisbottled.

So,welaydownthegauntlettotheseGodsofGraves:practicewhatyoupreachandweshallfollow



BORDEAUX 2014


Asarealtreat,weroundedupourafternoonatLMHBwiththewhitesLaClartedeHautBrion(70%Sauvignon,30%Semillon),LaMissionHautBrionBlanc(83%Semillon,17%SauvignonBlanc)andtheincrediblyrareHautBrionBlanc(68%Semillon,32%SauvignonBlanc).Thelattertwo–unusualforBordeauxdrywhitesinthattheyareSemillonbased–willundoubtedlygodownastwoofthebestfromthevintage.Ifyouareluckyenoughtofindsome,andevenluckiertobeabletoaffordit,stockup!

Scoressofar: Le Dragon de Quintus (90-91) JS La Chapelle de La Mission Haut Brion (93-94) JS Le Clarence de Haut Brion (93-94) JS Quintus (94-95) JS La Mission Haut Brion (94-95) JS (93-96) WS 98 TA Haut Brion (95-96) JS (95-98) WS 96 TA La Clarte de Haut Brion (95-96) JS La Mission Haut Brion Blanc (95-96) JS Haut Brion Blanc (98-99) JS



BORDEAUX 2014


BORDEAUX 2014 DAY3-THERIGHTBANKBECKONS!Aftertwowet,windyandmiserabledaystraversingBordeauxweweregreetedbyshaftsofsunlightondaythreewithtemperaturesthreateningtosoarintodoubledigits–perfectweatherforthedayaheadwhichfocusedontheRightBankofBordeaux,andfromwhatwewerehearingonthegrapevinecertain estates were clearly impressing the weather-beaten wine tradechargedwiththearduoustaskoftastingthebestMerlotonoffer!

‘PAVIE’INGTHEWAY: THE FUTURE OF SAINT EMILION

Ourdaybegandeliberatingoverwhichoutfitwasbestsuitedtothepromisedweatherforecast,andonarrivalatChateauPavie,whichlookedsplendidintheearlymorningsun,weweregreetedinthemarble-cladatriumbyHenriquePersewhowouldbeguidingusthroughtheportfolioofwinesthatPaviepresentatthesetastings,whichincludeallofthePersefamilywines.

Monbousquet: Metwithanaromaticandfragrantnose.Juicy,roundandapproachablefruit.Theterroironthisestatemaynotbethegreatest,butthePersesdefinitelygetthebestoutofit.Notamazinglycomplexandperhapslackedinabitofdepth/concentration,butanicewineforthevintage.

Pavie Decesse: Typicallyaquitepowerfulandconcentratedwine,butdon’tthinkthe2014quitecapturedthis.Analluringnosewithprimaryfruitnotesandsweetcassisaromas.Goodweightbuttanninsabitaustereanddrying,notquitebalanced.Couldimprovewithtime.

Bellevue Mondotte: Withjust4,800bottlesproducedofthismicro-cuvéeitwouldbeasurpriseifmanyreaderswillevercomeacrossthiswine.Despiteitslimitedproduction,thewineitselfisabitofashow-off.Super-concentrated,sumptuousandrich.Grippytanninswhichdominatedthefinish.

Pavie: Fantasticpurityoffruitonthenosewhichleadsintoaquitelivelyattackofconcentratedfruitflavoursandfreshacidity.Somemineralnotesevolveandthewineislayeredwithsomelovelyfloralnotesandaromas.

SincePavie’spromotiontoworldheritageelitein2012,GerardPerse’steamhaveaswaggeraboutthem.Icannothelpbutpicture Perse greeting the promotion with a Cantona-esque celebration–collarup,chestpuffedoutandalookonhisfaceasiftherewasamouldyslabofRoquefortunderhisnose…hooray!Andquiterightfully,giventhestateofthewineryandageingcellarwhenPerseandhiswifeChataltookoverin1998.TheyhavesuccessfullycatapultedPavieamongsttheeliteofBordeauxandforthepasttwoyears,theestatehasbeenrecognisedasLiv-ex‘snumberonepowerbrandinthemarket.Boastingnewfoundstatusalongsidetwo100ptwines,2000and2009,highreleasepriceshavefollowedsince2011(€114/bottleex-neg),with2012(94-96+pts)releasedat€180/bottle–a57%premium.JustificationforthefirstvintagebottledunderPremierGrandCruClassé(A)?Wecertainlywerenotengagedbythe2012releaseandthesamecanbesaidfor2013,ratedat(92-94pts)areleaseof165/bottlesurelystruggledtosell throughwell.



BORDEAUX 2014


Sucklingcurrentlyratesthe2014at92-94pts,whichoffthisbasemakesitinferiortothe2011(95+pts),2012(94-96+pts)andonaparwith2013.Ingeneral,Paviehasagoodshareoftradeandwillbeonthebuyers’wishlists.However,ifpricesareconsistentwith2013,wecanexpectareleaseof£1,445percase(exneg),atwhichpointIshallbeadvisingclientstobuy2008and2011instead.

Ithastobesaid,thatwithPavie’sgreatestfanretiringfromEnPrimeuer,itwillbeinterestingtoseetheeffectthismighthaveondemandfortheirwineswithoutthegreatUScritic’shighscores.

Scoressofar: Pavie 2014 94-97 (WS) 93-94 (JS)

CHEVALBLANC: IF THE GRAND VIN WAS RUNNING AT CHELTENHAM IT WOULD BE A 6/4 FAVOURITEOurnextstopwasaclearRightBankfavouriteandoneofthemostenjoyabletastingsofanyEnPrimeur.ChevalBlancmaybeaGrandCruClasseAestatewhichhasspentasignificantsumonrebuildingtheirchaiwhichiswithoutquestionthemosteyecatchingdesigninBordeaux,butCheval’sGrandVinisreveredgloballyandyettheypossessateamwhichpresenttheirwinesinthemostenthusiasticmannerpossible;theygreetuswarmlyeachyearandlaunchintoatastingwhichishighlyinformativeandsupportiveofthenewvintage.

Petit Cheval 2014: Thesecondwine(andthisisasecondwine!)ofChevalBlancusuallyshowswellatEnPrimeurtastingsandwhilethe2014wasshowingclean,pure,definedfruitlayerstherewasacooledgewithaleveloffreshnesswhichjustappearedtolackabitofweightanddepth.I’venodoubtthiswilldevelopwellinbottleandwillhaveourfocuswhenpricesarereleased.

Cheval Blanc 2014: TheGrandVinwasapuredelightineverysense,onthenoseitofferedgreatdepthofblackforestfruitandonthepalateitdulydelivered,therewasgreatfreshness,purityoflayeredfruit,verypurefruit,freshaciditywithperfectcontinuitythroughthemid-palatewithalonglingeringfinish.Withoutquestionthiswillfeatureafavouriteofthevintage–let’shopethepricedoesn’tfollowthehyperbole!

IthasbeenverydifficulttomakeacompellingcaseforbuyingChevalBlancEnPrimeuroverthepastfewyears.The2006,2007and2011areallavailablewellbelowex-chateauxrelease.The2012and2013werebothreleasedatasignificantdiscountto2011;2012(94-96pts)at€350/bottleand2013(89-91pts)at€300/bottle.WithParkerscoresnotformingapartofthisyear’sanalytics,wemustagainrefertoJamesSuckling’sratingof95-96ptsforthe2014.Onthefaceofit,onecouldcontestthatwehaveasuperiorwinetothatof2012,whichisconsidereda‘darkhorse’,soifpricesarereleasedat2012levelsChevalBlanc2014maybeavailabletopurchaseatunder£2,800.00percase.Moreaffordablethan2012andaroundthesamepricepointfortheinferior2007and2008.

WelikedChevalalotandifpricesaresensiblethisvintagewillbeathoroughbred.

Scoressofar: Cheval Blanc 96-99 (WS) 95-96 (JS)



BORDEAUX 2014


Chateau L’Evangile: the Cheval Noir of the vintage? WealwaysenjoyourtastingatL’Evangileregardlessthevintage,astheyprovideahugepileofcheeseandbreadwhichismuch-neededforthosemembersofteamwhoalsohavetocontinuetastingeachnightandmaybesomewhatjadedearlyon–butthisparticularvintagehadeveryone’sattention!

OurdelightfulhostCarolepresentedtheGrandVinanditblewanycobwebsaway,thewinedisplayedmassivepurityoffruit,beautifullydefined,withexcellentbalance.Arealfruitbombbutwithfreshacidityandsofttannins,thereisnoquestionthattheapproachfromL’Evangilehasbeenhugelysuccessfulinthedesiretoproduceawinewithsuchdepth,abigthumbsupfromtheteamallroundandformanyanearlyleaderinourwineofthedaycompetition.

Withanaveragevintagescoreof93.1pts,L’EvangileisaperfectexampleofthefluctuatingqualityandsubsequentfailedEnPrimeurcampaignsoverthepastfouryears.Havingreceivedaperfect100pointsfromRobertParkerin2009,followedbya98+in2010,manyregardedL’EvangileasrisingstarfromthePomerolregion.However,difficultweatherconditionsandpoorharvestshaveledtothreesuccessivelypoorvintageswiththe2011and2013vintagesfailingtomakethe90ptmark.Thelastthreeex-Chateauxreleaseshavebeenpricedat€100/bottleandhavestruggledconsiderablytofindafootholdinthemarket,fallingonaverage10-12%sincerelease.Lookingatthe2014vintagewithmorepositivity,havingreceivedascoreof91/92fromJamesSucklingandathoroughthumbsupfromCultWines,aslongaspricesarenotincreasedfromthe2013release,coupledwiththecurrentGBP/Eurorate,L’Evangilecouldwellbeaninterestingpositiontolookoutfor.

Scoressofar: Evangile 93-96 (WS) 91-92 (JS)

CHATEAUTROPLONGMONDOT: AT THE HIGH TABLE FOR LUNCHTroplongMondotoccupiesahighvantagepointinStEmilionandisabeautifulestateperfectforalunchstop,whichdovetailednicelywiththefactthatwewereguestsofDavidHamelinofnegociantQUIEN&Cieandlunchdulybeckoned.Butfirsttothetasting!

‘SEATHESTARS’,FORTHERACINGAFICIONADOSOUTTHERE



BORDEAUX 2014


TroplongMondotproducewhatcanonlybedescribedasafairly‘full-on’MerlotGrandVinandthe2014isanexcellentexampleofthepowerthisestatecangenerate,withafreshbalancedacidityandpuredamsonfruitinlayers,althoughitisquitechunky,andalittleausterewithquitegrippytannins.Thisoneneedssometimetoevenoutbutpromisessomedeliciousdrinkingin7-10years.

HavingcompletedthetastingweweretreatedtoasuperbselectionfromthecoldbuffetwithvariousvintagesofTroplongMondottowashdownthefoisgrasterrine.Iselectedthe1999andfoundthewinetostillbefreshandvibrantbutshowingasoft-agededgewhichalsohelpedenormouslywiththe cheeseboard!

TroplongMondot’saveragepriceperbottleforthepast10vintagesisatadover€72,whichforawellknowStEmilionestateiswidelyconsideredtobegoodvaluefrombothconsumptionandinvestmentstandpoints.FallingintotheLiv-exRightBank100Index,thataveragepriceperbottlecomesinat43%lowerthanitspeers,yetTroplongMondotboastsoneofthehighestaverageParkerscoresinthatsub-index.

Focussingonthe2014vintage,whichhasbeenscoredat93-94pts,thereareanumberofhighlyencouragingbenchmarkstotakeacloserlookat.ThefirstbeingthatJamesSuckling’sscoresarehistoricallylowerthanmostothercritics’forTroplongMondot.The2012vintagewasscoredat94-96ptsbyRobertParkeryetonlyreceived92/93fromSuckling,the2010vintagewasscoredat99ptsbyParkerbutagainonlyreceivedascoreof95-96ptsfromSuckling.ThelistgoesonandisagreatsignthatTroplonghaveproducedagreatwinein2014withascoreof93/94ptsfromtheseemingly‘harsh’Suckling.Again,aslong

aspricesdonotexceedlastyear’sreleasepriceof€ 52.8/bottle,thiswillbeatopcontenderinourinventoryof 2014recommendations.

Scoressofar: Troplong Mondot 2014 92-95 (WS) 93-94 (JS)

CHATEAUANGELUS: IT’S ALL BLACK AND YELLOW FOR THIS LUXURY BRANDSoit’sofficial,then;luxurybrandingoffinewineisawinnerandforanydoubtersjustlookattherecentpricesforthe2012vintageofAngeluswithitsblackbottleandgoldleaflabeldesign–andofcoursethecontents!

SowiththingsbacktorelativenormalityapartfromtheviewfromHubertthatmarketdemandwilldictatepricinglevelsforthe2014andgiventhereis‘hugedemand’forAngelus2014,youcandrawyourownconclusionwithregardsanypossiblepricedecrease–aboutaslikelyasHubertandGerardvotingforeachotheraswinemanoftheyear!

TheAngelustastingcomeswithawholeloadofbaggage,whichisjustalittleannoyingasitdetractsfromthemaintaskoffocusingontheGrandVin:theroomiscrammedfullanduncomfortable-unpleasantunlessyou’reintotastingwineontheCentralLineinrushhour.

TheGrandVinandsecondwineofCarillond’Angeluswereonthetoptable,whichrequiredonetonavigatetheentireroom.Jobdonewewerepresentedwithtwoveryimpressivewines.Angelushadimpressiveweightanddepthoffruit,greatpurity,nicefreshacidityandsoftlingeringtannins.Ithinkgiventimethiswilldevelopintoabeautifullystructuredwine.Iwouldconcurwiththeviewthatthiswillattractfansoftheestateandawideraudience–let’shopeitdoesn’toutpriceitself!



BORDEAUX 2014


HavingbeenupgradedtoPremierGrandCruClasse(A)in2012,Angeluspriceshaverisenconsistentlyacrosstheboardeversince.Althoughithasbeenhardtomakeacasefor buying Angelus En Primeur following high release prices in 2013,priceshavecontinuedtocreepup.Lookingatthepastthreecampaigns,priceshaverisenonaverage17%sincetheex-negociantreleaseprices,whichisn’tbadconsideringwidermarketconditions.The2014vintageboastsastrongscorefromJamesSucklingof93-94pts,whichisthesamescoreasthe2012vintagecurrentlyholdsandtradesat£2850/12.

InanarticlerecentlypublishedinTheDrinksBusiness,HubertdeBoüard,owneroftheStEmilionpropertyboastedthatdemandwasalreadyverystrongforthe2014vintage.Healsoconfirmedthatreleasepriceswouldnotbegoingdownfromthe2013vintagewhichwasreleasedat€165/bottle,whichwasan8%decreaseonthereleasepriceofthecomparable2012vintage.Ifreleasepricesasexpectedarethesameaslastyear,withthecurrentGBP/Euroratethiswouldequatetoareleasepricepercaseof£1455(around£1,600ex-London),a95%pricegapbetweenthe2014and2012vintage.Ofcoursewehavetotakeintoconsiderationthecollectabilityofthe2012vintage,butgiventheidenticalscoresandpotentiallysignificantprice gap this will certainly be a reasonable opportunity for investorsifpricesremainrealistic.

Scoressofar: Angelus 2014 93-96 (WS) 93-94 (JR)

CHATEAUCLINET: CLINET’S HIDDEN GEMAndourimagebelowprovidesaperfectexampleofthishiddengem,withthe2014GrandVinbeingout-performedbythesecondwineofFleurdeClinet,albeitfromthe2012vintage.

AndmaybethisisacautionarynoteaswestartedbytastingtheabsolutelydeliciousFleurdeClinet2012whichexudedanarrayofredandblackforestfruitsandabeautifullyfemininestructure.Thisisawinewhichonecouldpullthecorksonveryearly–thiswillformpartofourconsumptionbuyingstrategysokeepaneyeoutfortheoffer.Amustbuy!

Thenwemovedontothe2014Clinet–ofwhichjust4,700casesoftheGrandVinareproduced.It’sapersonalfavouritebutthisvintagewasstrugglingtoimpress.Theinkyvioletcolourofthewinewithaglisteningedgewasagoodstart,thenosethoughwassomewhatmutedandonthepalateitsimplyfailedtodeliverarealflavourpunch.Themid-palatewasflatandthefinishfirmwithbalancedtannins,althoughmyquestionwillbeabouttheabilityofthiswinetodeliveroverthemediumterm.Verypleasantbutjustnotdeliveringinthesamewaythe 2012did.

Clinet’sreleaseshavestruggledsinceitssensational2009offering.Therecentvintagesof2013(90-91ptsand£341.60ex-neg),2012(90-91ptsand£341.60ex-neg)and2011(92-93ptsand£437.95ex-neg)haveallfailedtogettongueswaggingwithanaveragedeclineof14.8%.Itisrelevanttocompare2014withyearsofsimilarilk;althoughthepricingstructureforthelastthreeyearsishighlyrelevant,2014isafarbetteryearforBordeaux.IfClinetweretomaintaintheirreleasepricesatthelevelseenforthelasttwoyears,itwouldpotentiallyoffersignificantvaluetobuyers.Belowisalistofcomparablevintagestothe2014andthepricetheyarecurrentlytradingat.

Clinet,2008 £566 Clinet,2007 £558 Clinet,2006 £580 Clinet,2004 £780 Clinet,2003 £499 Clinet,2002 £625 Clinet,2001 £680 Avg.£612.57



BORDEAUX 2014


Ifthereleasepriceisinlinewiththelasttwoyearsat£341.60,thenitclearthatthe2014vintagewillpresentanopportunityforEnPrimeurbuyers.Asignificantincrease,however,woulddivertallattentiontowardsthe2012vintage,whichcurrentlytradesataround£450/12.

Scoressofar: Clinet 93 (TA) 91-92 (JS)

CHATEAUAUSONE:RECLAIMING THE HIGH GROUNDVistingChateauAusoneisalwaysaprivilegeandadelight.TheChateauislocatedviaanalmost-hiddenroadupasteepclimb,andtheviewsaresuperb.ThetastingcellarsarequitelowkeyandrelaxedforthemostexpensiveinStEmilion,andthefocushereisthewine,andwiththisGrandVinitisinvariablyarewardingexperience.

The2014Ausoneisdarkandinky,andnotthesortofwinetotipdownalightlycolouredsweater–thiswinewillstainforlife!Onthenoseitisalldeepblackforestfruitsandniceminerality,andjustbeckonsyouintotheglass.Thepalateissimplydelicious,andmaybebecauseitsignifiesjusthowgoodthiswinewillbein10+years,thecontinuitythroughthemid-palateissignificant,balancedwithsofttannins,andthesavouryedgehangsonthroughaverylongfinish–thisisonetograbandkeep!

Since2006AusonehasfailedtorewardtheirEnPrimeurbuyerswiththedesiredreturns.Thepricelevelsatwhichtheyreleasedduring2009,2010and2011wereunjustifiedgiventhatthequalitywasjudgedbyParkertobebelowthatofitspeers.Forboth2012and2013,however,thewinewasreleasedatamoresuitablemark(£3,372in2012and£2,627in2013),andthevalueshavereversedthetrendseenforthesevenyearsprior.The2014vintageisratedat95-96ptsbySucklingwhichissuperiortoboth,andonaparwiththe2008vintage(96ptsandtradesat£4,000).ShouldAusonemaintaintheirsensiblepricingstrategyofthepasttwoyears,thiscouldwellbeoneofthetoprecommendationsfromtheStEmilionregion.

Scoressofar: Ausone 2014 95-96 (WS) 95-96 (JS)

VIEUXCHATEAUCERTAN: I AM ‘CERTAN’ THIS IS THE BEST RIGHT BANK WINE – JUST MY ‘VIEUX’ THOUGH?IhavetotrytobeimpartialandbalancedtobefairtotherestofBordeaux,butifIcouldonlytakeasinglecasetotheproverbialdesertislanditwouldbeVCCandIwouldn’tspendaminuteconsideringwhatelseIammissingouton.

TastingatVCCistreat,apartfromthemaincoursethisisallabouttheowners;thefatherandsonteamrunningVCCreflecttheverypersonaltouchthatonecandetectwiththiswine,andtheyarerelaxedandanenjoyableteamtotastewith,probablyreflectingtheconfidencetheyhaveinthewine.

The2014wasveryexpressiveonthenoseexhibitingmoreredcurrantfruitswhichonthepalateexplodeintoacreamy,richmouthfulwithbaconnotesrunningthroughabalancedmid-palateandlonggentleexquisitefinishandsofttannins.Thiswillbeasheerdelightforthoseluckyenoughtoacquireacaseortwo–anothergemfromtheThienpontfamily.

Withjustthreevintagesfallinginpricesince2004,VCChasbeenoneofthemoresuccessfulestatesforEnPrimeurbuyers.However,itistherecentvintagesof2011,2012and2013thathavestruggledtomatchtheperformanceshownbythe vintagesfromtheearliernoughties;aseriesofhighreleasepricesandlackofdemandhavekeptpricesfromrisingoverthelastfewyears.



BORDEAUX 2014


Sucklingratesthe2014at95-96pts,which,scorewise,isonparwiththe2011(95-96pts)butbetterthanthe2012(93-94pts)andthe2013(90-91pts);bothofwhichwerereleasedat£788.32/12ex-neg.Itisimportanttonotethatasanoverallvintage,2014iscertainlyadifferentpropositiontothelastthreeyears.Twovintagesthatofferamoresuitablebenchmarkforthe2014arethe2006vintage(96pts)currentlytradingat£1,280,andtoalesserextentthe2001(93pts),tradingat£1,195.ShouldpricesremainatthelevelseenforVCCvintagesoutsideof2009and2010ofaround£788/12,thenVCCmaywellbeawinethatoffersvalueforinvestorsin2014.

Scoressofar: Vieux Chateau Certan 2014 94-97 (WS) 95-96 (JS)

LEPIN: THERE IS NO ‘IF’ ABOUT THESE WINES, THIS IS THE TAIL ON THE DONKEY!NotfarfromVCCisthetinyplotbelongingtoJacquesThienpont,whoproducestheworldfamousLePinwithsomehelpfromhiscousinAlexandre,andnowofcoursewehavethesecondofferingunderthelabelL’If,whichistheestateboughtbyThienpontpreviouslycalledChateauLeHaut-Plantey.

NowdependingonwhoyoufollowforyourcriticscoresyoumayalreadybeawarethatJamesSucklinghasawardedL’If94-95ptsforthe2014andLePinamere93-94pts.WhilewearedealingwithtwoverydifferentestateshereitisnotablethatThienponthasacquiredatopscoreforonlythefourthvintageofhisrebrandedStEmilionandwithonly500casesavailablepricesaresettoruninjustonedirection!

L’If 2014: Thisisaverywellbalancedwine,itsoclearlyreflectsthewinemakingtechniquesathand,withlayersofdelicatefruit,lightfreshacidity,elegance,structureandasmoothlengthyfinishwithsofttannins.Justmakesureyougetaleastabottlebeforethisbecomesanotherresidentofcertainselectcellars!

Le Pin 2014: HavingtocontendwiththenewupstartandwiththeriskitcouldbeoutscoredbyNMlaterthismonth,LePinneededtoperformandthe2014dulydeliveredinanexhilaratingway.Thewinewasshimmeringinanticipation,thenosewasperfumedredberry,thepalatearichyetsubtleexplosionoffruit.Suchelegance,styleandbalancewithaverylongfinishjuststampsitsclassalloverthiswine.Itwillsimplybedeliciousfortheluckyfew–andIthinkitpipsitsunderstudytothepost!

Scoressofar: Pin 96-99 (WS) 93-94 (JS)



BORDEAUX 2014


L’EGLISECLINET: DENIS DURANTOU’S PRICE IS RIGHTMakenomistakeaboutit,despiteitsmodestappearance,L’EgliseClinetisoneofthefinestproducersinPomerol.WhenyouconsideritssmallproductionandthecrazypricesthatnearbywinesPetrusandLePinfetch,itdoesmakeyouconsiderwhetherthisisreallyoneofthebestvaluefinewinesyoucanbuy.

The2014isablendof90%Merlotand10%CabernetFranc.Thewineexhibitsadeepdarkhue,andthepalateisalmostrepresentativeofthis.Ithasadarkeredgetoit,butisquitebroad,withdeepconcentratedfruitandchunkytannins.Thelovelyaciditybalancesbeautifully,toleavealingeringfinishofmochaandspices.Greateffortonceagain.

Unfortunately,therearenoglamourmodelsintheBordeauxspinoffofeveryone’sfavouritegameshow(unlessyouareDucru)butthecriesof‘higher’or‘lower’couldnotbemorefittingforthisyear’sEPrelease.

L’EgliseClinetispartofasmallgroupingofestatesthathasseenanincreaseinpriceforits2012and2013.Thisisnotsurprisingfortheformer,givenitstandsaloneastheonlypotential100ptwinefromthe2012vintage.Thereisastrongpossibilitythatitcouldrival2009/2010intermsofquality.

AsParkersaidonthe2012:“Justfinishedtastingover700bottlesof2012Bordeaux.Stillhaveabout40orsotofinish,butaspermyinitialreportinApril,2013lookstobeonthemoney...withabigexception...thewinesareperformingbetterthanIoriginallyestimated...whichisgreatconsideringtheultimatetruthisafterbottling…ThestrengthsofthevintagearethePomerolsandGraves(notfaroffthepeaksof2009and2010).”

Soat96-100pts,2012couldbeaninterestingcontenderforfurtherpricedevelopmentifParkerscoresinthehigherrangeattheendofthismonth.The2013isratedat92-94ptsfromParkerandthereforeranksasoneofthebetterwinesofa‘messy’vintage.The2011hasstruggledcomingoffamark

of€100/bottleandisnowavailableatlessthan14%ofitsinitialrelease.AscoreattheupperendoftheParkerspreadfrom92-95ptsto95ptshasnotofferedanyresistancetothepricedeterioration,withmanyinvestors/collectorsreferringtotheoverallvintagequalityasjustificationnottobuy.Parker’sinfluenceinthiscasehasbeenpartiallyignored.WithanaverageParkerscoreof95.9pts,itisthehighestscoringwineintheLiv-exRightBank100Indexandthereforefindsitselfplacedamongst the most costly with an average price per case of£1,600.

Factorssuchastinyproductionlevelsmustalsobetakenintoconsideration,withlessthan1,500casesproducedperannum,pricinglooksmodestcomparedtoAusone,LePinandPetrus.JamesSucklinghasawardedthe2014aninitialbarrelscoreof94-95ptscomparedtohis93-94ptsfor2013andin-bottlescoreof95ptsforthe2012(fromamarkof94-95pts).Itishardtosuggestthatthe2014willeclipsethequalityof2012butifreleasedatsimilarpricelevels,itrepresentsapricecloseto£1,100(ex-London).IfDDpricesatcloseto2012levels,therewillcertainlybeathoroughlyengagedmarketandabuxomwinetoboast.

Scoressofar: Eglise Clinet 2014 92-95 (WS) 94-95 (JS)



BORDEAUX 2014


BORDEAUX 2014 DAY4–STJULIENANDMARGAUXWithourfinaldayoftastingbeginningatthetinyappellationofStJulien,wesetoffearlyfromourBordeauxapartment–withnotsuchtinyheadachesfromthenightbefore–ingreatanticipationofwhatStJuliencouldoffer.EventhoughitisoneofthesmallestappellationsoftheMedoc,itisoftenthemostconsistentanddespiteitssmallsize,StJulienproducesseveralBordeauxstyles;frompowerfulandtannictoelegantandfeminine.ThelatterpartofourdaywasdedicatedtotheequallysmallappellationofMargaux.

POYFERRE–ORNOT!Thesunwasoutandafteranhourofnapping,rehydratinganddubiousovertaking,wearrivedinStJulieningoodspirits.OurfirsttastingofthedaywasscheduledatLéovillePoyferréfor9.30am,butnoteventheHamilton/Rosberg-esqueconvoycouldspareusmissingit.Luckily,wewereabletotryLéovillePoyferrélaterinthedaywhilehostedbyoneofournegociants.Itshowedpromiseofatypicallyrefinedwinewithnotesof spicycassis,purefruit,freshanddelicatetannins:drinkablewhenyoung.

Poyferréhascomeintoitsowninrecentvintages,andaperfectscorefromParkerfortheoutstanding2009providedtheestatewithaprofileboostthatmanycriticsandtrademembersalikewoulddescribeaswell-deserved.ComparedwithneighbourLasCases,pricesforPoyferréarealwaysexcellentvalue,withmanyvintagestradingforaroundhalftheprice:€38.40/bottledidn’twork,perhaps,aswellastheBordelaishadhopedin2013,withafarlessroundedandpolishedwine.Asimilarpriceforthe2014,perhapsuptothe2012releasepriceof€43.20,wouldnodoubtgarnermoreinterest.

Scoressofar: (93-94) JS (92-95) WS (93) TA

‘WE’RELOVINGDUCRU’ CHATEAU DUCRU BEAUCAILLOU

YearafteryearDucruBeaucaillouneverfailstoimpress,andthisyeartheywereright‘enpointe’.ItbecomesclearereveryyearthatBrunoBoriespendsalmostasmuchtimepickingthehostessesashedoespickingthegrapes;ChapeauBruno,twostunningeffortsoncemore(98+pointsand95respectively–fullbodiedandelegantwithpresumablysuppletannins…greatontheeye!).Asweweretakendownthroughtheopulent‘Ducruyellow’hallstothebeautifully-equippedtastingroom,wewerepresentedwithfourwines:LePetitCaillou,LalandeBorie,CroixdeBeaucaillouandtheGrandVin,DucruBeaucaillou.

ThemostimpressiveofthefourwinesbyfarwastheGrandVin,howeverLaCroixdeBeaucaillou(60%CabernetSauvignon,35%Merlotand5%PetitVerdot)hadgoodfreshnessandweightwhiletheLalandeBoriehadanapproachablestyle:softlytexturedandopenwithsweetcassisonthefinish.

TheDucruBeaucaillouisaremarkableexpressionofCabernet,withamajesticpairingofeleganceandconcentrationoffruit.Profoundlydarkpurpleincolour,arichanddevelopingnose,withlayersofblackfruitsandspices,thereisaclarityofmineralnotes,cedar,liquoricethatlingeredonpalate.ThediscerningbalancesuggestsalonglifeaheadanditissafetosayithasemergedasoneofStJulien’stopwines.

DucruBeaucaillouismadeupof90%CabernetSauvignonand10%Merlotwitharound10-12,000casesproducedeachyear–agreatoptionforthecellar(ifthepriceworks!)



BORDEAUX 2014


WelefttheEstatewantingtogobackformore(onanumberoffronts).BrunoBorie’sappreciationfortheoppositesexisfurtherdemonstratedbyhisnamingofeachvintage,thisyearnamingthe2014afterRhianna(andWinstonChurchill)–makeofthatcombinationwhatyouwill.ThethoughtofChurchill‘twerking’withthesameflareastheBarbadianpopstarshouldatleastevokeamusingmentalimagery…Movingquicklyon!

Whetherwewillbebuyingatprimeurswillofcoursedependonthereleaseprice,whichhasbeendifficulttoestimateoverthepastfewyears.Thenotable2009vintagewasreleasedatadizzying€180/bottle,threetimesthepriceoftheprevious(ratherlovely)vintage.Itwasoneofonlyafewtopestatestodropthepriceforthe2010to€150andwhilerecentvintageshavebeenconsiderablybettervalue–droppingtothepreviousbenchmarkof€60-€70/bottle–wemustawaitMrBorie’sdecisiononwhathasbeendescribedbyseveralUKandBordeauxtrademembersastheirfavouriteLeftBankwine!The2012levelof€69.60wouldlikelybewelcomedbythetrade,consideringbackvintagestradeatpricesofaround£850/12forthe2001,2002,2004,2006,2007and2008.Ifthe2014,whichwillnodoubtrankfavourablyagainstthesevintages,isavailabletoconsumersat£695-£750,thenitshouldseriouslybeconsidered.

Scoressofar: 96-97 pts – James Suckling

CHATEAU LEOVILLE LAS CASES

Our next port of call was at Chateau Leoville Las Cases which liesinthenorthernmosttipoftheStJulienappellation.Themodesttastingroom,incomparisontoDucruBeaucaillou,hadwineslaidoutreadyforusfromDomainesDelon:ChateauLeovilleLasCases,ChateauPontensac(Pomerol)andChateauNenin(Medoc).

Chateau Pontensac (Pomerol): Hintsofoakandcedaronthenose,aromaticandwellstructured,thiswineismedium-bodiedwithpolishedtannins.

Chateau Nenin (Medoc): Nenin: Therearehintsoffruitontheimmediatepalate,butausterewhichwillopenslightlywithtime.Aslightlyspicyandearthyfinish.

FuguedeNenin:Alightandattractivenose,buthollowfruitinthemid-palate,slightlymorebalancedtowardsthefinish.Aneasy-goingdrinker.

Chateau Leoville Las Cases: Clos du Marquis:Alittleclosedbutrestrainedonthenose,greatmouthfeelandniceredandblackfruitflavourswithanofferingofspice.

Petit Lion du Marquis de Las Cases: Asimple,earthynose,withperfumedsweetfruitsandwellintegratedtannins.

Leoville Las Cases:ItisfairtosayPierreGraffeuilleandhisteamhavecreatedoneofthetopwinesofthevintage–atruesurpriseforeveryone!UsuallyaclosedandatoughwinetotastesoyoungatEnPrimeur,LeovilleLasCasescertainlywasashowstopper.Soamazedbyitsalreadybeautifulnose,precisefruitandeasier-than-usualtannins,anumberoftheteamhadtotasteasecondandevenathirdtimewiththespittoonsbecomingeverlessnecessary.Itpresentedanelegant,sweetperfumednose,hintsofroseandcedar,complementedbyaroundedstructureonthepalatewithnoticeablebutsmoothtannins.Thehintofspiceandmineralitywereevidentinitslongfinish.Thisisapowerfulandconcentratedwinebutelegant andrefined,atruerepresentationoftheirterroir.Theassemblage is79%CabernetSauvignon,10%Merlotand11% CabernetFranc.



BORDEAUX 2014


LasCasesisknownastypicallythemostexpensiveofalltheMedocwinesoutsideoftheFirstGrowths,witharichhistoryofnotablescoresandanundisputedlyexceptionalterroir–it’sisoftenconsideredanunofficialfirstgrowth.Thisisavintagewherethequalityisclearlyuponthe2012and2013(both€79/bottleex-neg)andthereisjustificationtoincreaseonthose‘lesser’offerings.WhenlookingatpricesforbackvintagesfollowingasustainedperiodofmarketsofteningforLasCases,itwouldappeartheChateaucouldraiseitsreleasepricetosomethingaround€85-€88/bottle.Withequivalentqualitybackvintageshoveringaround£1,000/12mark,thequestionwouldbewhether£800-£900/12offersenoughofanincentivetobuyers.Butignoringpriceandbasedpurelyonaqualityperspective,it’samustfromthisvintage.

Scoressofar: Leoville Las Cases 96-97 (JS) 94-97 (WS) 96 (TA)

CHATEAUBELGRAVE

FromLeovilleLasCasesweheadedtoBelgravetotasteavarietyofwinesandattendanotherdeliciouslunch,hostedbyasupplier.Withabroadselectionofwinestochoosefromandalimitedamountoftimewehadtobequiteselective.However,didfocustimeontheRightBank,whichwehadn’tcoveredasfullyearlierintheweek.

A FEW FAVOURITES:Péby Faugères: Lastyearthefocusofablogpostforthewebsite‘CrouchingTigerHiddenMerlot’,thiswineisbeginningtodrawmoreattentionyearbyyearandiscertainlyoneofthemostinterestingestatesontheRightBankatpresent.Atinyproduction(around500cases)projectfrommulti-millionaireLaliqueownerSilvioDenzandfamedwineconsultantMichelRolland.Thisisasexywine,fantasticbalance,freshnessandconcentrationoffruit.Wellbalancedandcomplex.Ataround£600percase(ifyoucanfindit)it’sstillreasonablypricedforthequality.

93-94 (JS)

Le Gay: With90%Merlotand10%CabernetFranc,itcarriesafresh,floralandsweetnose,withenchantingaromasofplumandflavoursofredfruitonthepalate.Extremelywellrefinedwithsofttannins,greatintensityandlongfinish.

90-91 (JS)

La Conseillante: A78%Merlotand22%CabernetFrancblend,thisisanexcellentwinewithagreatbalance.Freshcherryandtobacconotesonthenose,anintensepalateofaromaticfruit,theoakhasintegratedbeautifullyintothewineandthetanninsaresilky.Thisisalayeredandlovelywinewithalongfinish.

94-95 (JS)

HERMIONE(BUYER)ANDPHIL(DIRECTOR)ENJOYSOMEREFRESHINGWHITESATBELGRAVE



BORDEAUX 2014


Valandraud: With70%Merlot,25%CabernetFrancand5%CabernetSauvignon,thisisapowerfulandrichwinewithsilkytannins.Ithastobacco,vanilla,darkfruitsandspiceonthenosewithmineralnotesandripedarkfruitsonthepalate.

92-93 (JS)

Le Dome: Amasculinewine,deeprubyincolour,withcoffee,liquoriceandmineralnotes,sweetcherryonthepalate,andfirmtannins.

90-91 (JS)

Clos Fourtet: Plentyofbalancedandfreshfruit,andsomespicyundertonesandfloralnotes.Thefinishislongbutgentlewithvelvetytannins.

91-92 (JS)

Figeac: A40%Merlot,28%CabernetFrancand32%CabernetSauvignonblend,thisisabeautifulFigeac,deeprubyincolour.Aconcentratednoseshowsblackcherry,mineralityandwetstone.Full-bodiedwithveryfinetannins.

94-95 (JS)

La Mondotte:

Thisisarichandpowerfulwine,withflamboyantfruitonthepalate.Awell-structuredwinewithfirmtanninsandexcellentweight.Alovelylongfinish.

92-93 (JS)

94-97 (WS)

Ofallthesewines,perennialstrongperformerClosFourtetisalwaysworthconsideration;it’sastrongbrandthatcontinuestoworkwellgloballyasitoffersgreatvalueandquality(consistently).The2014,whilstnotrankingalongsidethebestvintagesofthisestate,at€44(2013releaseprice)shouldworkforbuyersconsideringaveragebackvintagepriceshoveraround£550-£600mark.

Figeac,whichseemstobere-establishingitselfonthemarketafterafewyearsofoversight,mostnotablyemphasisedbytheir

withdrawalfromtheUniondesGrandCrus(youcannolongertastetheirwinesatthegeneralUGCtastingsheldinprimeursweek),waswellreceivedthisyearandseemstohaveproducedoneofthebestwinesinSaintEmilion.Withequivalentbackvintagesavailableat£600/12andagooddiscountontheselevelsshouldhelpthewinesellthrough.

CHATEAUMARGAUX

Thiswascertainlyaneye-openingandinformativetasting,ledbyPaulPontallier(orasweliketocallhim‘theArseneWengerofthewineworld’)whohasbeenrunningChateauMargauxsince1983.Withhiddenenthusiasm,hegaveusanintroductionbehindthevintage,terroirandgrapevarietiesused.Herevealedthatthe2014vintagedoesn’tsitatthetoptierofbestvintages(whichinclude2000,2005,2009and2010)butthatitcanhappilybeplacedinitsownrankjustabovethevintagesthatinclude2001,2004,2006and2008.Forsomeonesosenior,hisappetitetoshowcasethewineshimselfishumblingandwellreceivedbyall.Althoughalwayssharplytweeded,itmightbetimeforanewjacketnextyearPaul…I’msurePhilipcanrecommendavendorortwo!

WefirsttastedPavillonRougeduChateauMargaux(77%CabernetSauvignon,22%Merlotand1%PetitVerdot)whichhasplentyoftanninsaccompaniedbyabalanceoffreshnessandacidity.Refinedandsilkywithalongfinish.Avibrantwinebutitlackstheexcellentconcentrationproducedbythe GrandVin.



BORDEAUX 2014


WhichleadsusontoourtastingofChâteauMargaux(90%CabernetSauvignon,5%Merlot,3%CabernetFrancand2%PetitVerdot)whichwaseverythingyouwouldhopeandexpectfromtheGrandVin.Anexpressivenosehashintsoflightsavourycassis,thecoreisofplumanditsagiletanninsleadintoalongfinish.Thereisalivelyaciditycomplementedbyitselegantandapproachablepalate.Allowingthewineamomentintheglassgaveittimetoopenupsignificantlyandfortheflavoursandaromastodevelop–nodoubtthiswinewilldevelopwellinbarrelandbottle.The2014exudestypicalcharacteristicsofaMargauxandiswelcomingtodrinkespeciallyincomparisontomostofthebolderandmoreweightedwinesoftheNorthernMedoc.

ThefinaltastingwasofthePavillionBlanc,whichshowedrestraintandbalance,butwasnotaparticularlynotablewine. Itwasfreshwithaboldattack,butthemidpalatelackedsomeoftheconcentrationoffruitpresentinsomeMedoccounterparts.AneasydrinkerforthosewithatasteforthefinerBordeauxblancs.

Itwouldhardlybeasurprisetoseeaslightincreaseonthe€215/bottlereleasepriceofthelasttwovintages.Themega-lowproductionPavillonRougeisalwaysagreatvaluepurchaseforthosewhoseekaconsistentnamefromtheappellation;apriceof€70-€75wouldcertainlyattractinterestandtheremaybemoreofascrambletogetholdofthe2014effortthanhasbeenthecaseinrecentyears.ExpecttoseestronginterestinMargaux,similartotheotherFirsts,ifpricedaround€240-€250/bottleatfirstrelease.

CHATEAUPALMER

OurfinaltastingoftheweekatChateauPalmerwasadelight.Wewereexcitedtohearthe2014vintagemarkedthefirstyearofafullybiodynamicestateandthewinecertainlyhadalltheelementsofagreatPalmer.WebeganourtastingofAlterEgo–whichasexportdirectorChrisMyersexplainedisnotasecondwinebutawineinitsownrightasithasitsowndedicatedvineyardplots–consistingof52%Merlot,45%CabernetSauvignonand6%PetitVerdot.Ahugelyexpressiveandperfumednoseofbrightplumandraspberry,thefruitflavoursthatfollowedonthepalatedidnotdisappoint,theywererichwithvelvetytannins.

Palmer(49%CabernetSauvignon,45%Merlotand6%PetitVerdot)wasadeeppurpletotherim,withafabulousdepth,spicywithsucculentblackfruitsandnotesofliquoriceandspice.Itisfull-bodied,withvelvetytanninsandalasting, fruityfinish.

PalmeristheanomalyoftheMargauxappellationprice-wise.BuckingthepricetrendofotherGCCaroundthemsuchasRauzanSegla,LascombesandBraneCantenac,theestatehasanunofficiallyestablishedrankasthepremierwine,outsideoftheirnextdoorneighbour,FirstGrowthChâteauMargaux.SharingsucharichterroirhasallowedPalmertomakeconsistentlygreatwines,performingparticularlywellinthebestvintages.ThishasseenthemarketforPalmerextendgloballyandthereisstrongdemandfromallofthemajorglobalsecondarymarkets.Theirdecisiontomovetowardsorganicproductionissomethingthey‘donotwishtoshoutabout’in



BORDEAUX 2014


thesamewayPontetCanetdo.Thatsaid,ChrisMyerswasstillquicktomentionthisalongwithhisbeliefsthatagreatmanymoreestateswillfollowsuitoverthenextfewyears–itwillbeinterestingtoseehowthisdevelops.

CEOofPalmer,ThomasDuroux,hasalreadyintimatedtothepressthatheexpectstoreleasethe2014vintageatthesamelevelasthe2012,whichwas€150ex-negociantandenteredthemarketataround£1,650/12fortheconsumer.Palmerhasalwaysremainedheadstrongwhenitcomestoitspricingandplaceinthemarket,oftencomparingitsproductwithwinesandcorrespondingpricesinBurgundy,ItalyandCalifornia.

Leavingthisbeautifulestatebehinduswehadcompletedafantasticweekoftastingandtoconclude,ithasbecomeclearthatasweprogressedthroughbothStJulienandMargaux,thewinemakershavebeenabletoexpresstheirterroirinthewine.TheseGrandCruwinesareofexceptionalquality,simplydescribedasharmonious.Theirdarkhue,precisefruitandfirmtanninscanbeaguaranteeofexceptionalagingpotential.AquickpitstopatalocalmerchantallowedustopickupacoupleofbottlesofClosdeLunes,Luned’Or2012whichwentremarkablywellwithsome‘leBigMac’s’fromquaint Frenchrestaurant‘McDonalds’–wineandfoodpairingatitsmostelegant!

The2014EnPrimeurswasafascinatingexperienceaswetastedover100winesrangingovermanyGrandCruestates.But one thing that is clear to see is the quality of wine has improvedenormouslyonthe2013vintage.Thisiscertainlythebestvintageinfouryears(since2010)andcertainlymostconsistentacrossthewholeofBordeauxcomparedtoothers.Withoutoversimplifying,theLeftBankwinestendedtobeofahigherqualitythantheRightBankWines.Thisisdown,predominantly,totheCabernetfruitwhichshowedBordeauxinitsbestlight.ThisisnottosaytherewerenotanygemsontheRightBank,andthosewineswithahighproportionofCabernetFranc(ChevalBlanc,andVCC,forexample)reallybenefittedfromthebeautifularomaticsandripenessbroughtbythisCabernetgrape.

THOSEWITHAKEENEYEMAYNOTICEITWAS‘CHATEAUHEINEKEN’BEINGSAMPLEDINSAINTEMILLIONAFTERAHARDDAY’STASTING.



BORDEAUX 2014


BORDEAUX 2014 ESTIMATEDRELEASEPRICETABLE JS=JamesSuckling,WS=WineSpectator,TA=TimAtkin,NM=NealMartin(TheWineAdvocate),JR=JancisRobinson

Wine Vintage JS WS TA NM JR Estimated Release Price (£/12)

Angélus 2014 93-94 93-96 95 -- -- 1600-1850

Ausone 2014 95-96 -- 94 -- -- 3200-3750

BeauséjourDuffau-Lagarosse 2014 93-94 -- 92 -- -- 450-495

Beychevelle 2014 93-94 -- 91 -- -- 400-500

BraneCantenac 2014 92-93 -- 92 -- -- 250-285

Calon-Ségur 2014 93-94 -- 93 -- -- 400-500

CarruadesdeLafite 2014 92-93 -- 94 -- -- 900-1050

Chapelled’Ausone 2014 92-93 -- 92 -- -- 875-1050

ChâteauBranaireDucru 2014 92-93 -- 90 -- -- 250-280

ChâteauCanon-la-Gaffelière 2014 93-94 -- 94 -- -- 350-430

ChâteauCantemerle 2014 93-94 -- -- -- -- 160-205

ChâteauFigeac 2014 94-95 93-96 95 -- -- 525-600

ChâteauGazin 2015 -- -- 94 -- -- £380

ChâteauGruaud-Larose 2014 93-94 -- 90 -- -- 350-400

ChâteauHaut-Batailley 2014 91-92 -- 92 -- -- 225-260

ChâteauleGay 2014 90-91 -- 92 -- -- --

ChâteauRauzan-Ségla 2014 94-95 -- 95 -- -- 330-350

ChâteauSuduiraut 2014 97-98 -- 95 -- -- 450-500

ChâteauTalbot 2014 94-95 -- 93 -- -- 275-350

ChâteauValandraud 2014 92-93 -- 91 -- -- --

ChevalBlanc 2014 95-96 96-99 98 -- -- 3150-3600

Climens 2014 -- -- -- -- -- 370-400

Clinet 2014 91-92 -- 93 -- -- 375-450

ClosFourtet 2014 91-92 -- 93 -- -- 425-550

Cosd’Estournel 2014 96-97 -- 97 -- -- 750-950

DomainedeChevalier 2014 93-94 -- 93 -- -- 265-310



BORDEAUX 2014


BORDEAUX 2014 ESTIMATEDRELEASEPRICETABLECONTINUED JS=JamesSuckling,WS=WineSpectator,TA=TimAtkin,NM=NealMartin(TheWineAdvocate),JR=JancisRobinson


Duhart-MilonRothschild 2014 92-93 -- 92 -- -- 450-550

d’Yquem 2014 97-98 -- 97 -- -- n/a

FortsdeLatour 2014 93-94 -- 94 -- -- n/a

GrandPuyLacoste 2014 93-94 93-96 94 -- -- 350-450

HautBailly 2014 93-94 -- 94 -- -- 350-500

HautBrion 2014 95-96 95-98 96 -- -- 2300-2650

LaConseillante 2014 94-95 -- 95 -- -- 600-690

LaFleurPetrus 2014 93-94 -- 97 -- -- 850-900

LaMissionHautBrion 2014 94-95 93-96 98 -- -- 1200-1400

LaMondotte 2014 94-95 -- 93 -- -- 950-1150

LafiteRothschild 2014 97-98 94-97 97 -- -- 3000-3450

Lafleur 2014 97-98 -- 98 -- -- 3500-4000

Lascombes 2014 91-92 -- 87 -- -- 325-375

Latour 2014 98-99 -- 98 -- -- n/a

LeClarencedeHautBrion 2014 93-94 -- 92 -- -- 475-550

LeDôme 2014 90-91 -- 95 -- -- --

LePetitCheval 2014 92-93 -- 93 -- -- 925-1050

LePetitMouton 2014 93-94 -- 92 -- -- 660-760

LePin 2014 93-94 96-99 97 -- -- --

L’EgliseClinet 2014 94-95 92-95 96 -- -- 1000-1150

LeovilleBarton 2014 92-93 92-95 94 -- -- 450-550

LeovilleLasCases 2014 96-97 94-97 96 -- -- 850-950

LeovillePoyferre 2014 93-94 92-95 93 -- -- 350-450

L’Evangile 2014 91-92 93-96 94 -- -- 950-1050

LynchBages 2014 95-96 93-96 96 -- -- 500-600

Margaux 2014 94-95 94-97 96 -- -- 2350-2600



BORDEAUX 2014


BORDEAUX 2014 ESTIMATEDRELEASEPRICETABLECONTINUED JS=JamesSuckling,WS=WineSpectator,TA=TimAtkin,NM=NealMartin(TheWineAdvocate),JR=JancisRobinson


MoutonRothschild 2014 96-97 95-98 95 -- -- 2350-2600

Palmer 2014 94-95 93-96 95 -- -- 1600-1750

PapeClement 2014 93-94 -- 90 -- -- 480-550

Pavie 2014 93-94 94-97 90 -- -- 1750-1900

PavillonRougedeMargaux 2014 92-93 -- 92 -- -- 700-775

PebyFaugères 2014 93-94 -- -- -- -- 580-665

Petrus 2014 95-96 95-98 96 -- -- 12000-13000

PichonBaron 2014 95-96 92-95 94 -- -- 575-650

PichonLalande 2014 93-94 92-95 95 -- -- 600-650

PontetCanet 2014 95-96 -- 94 -- -- 600-700

Rieussec 2014 97-98 -- -- -- -- 450-500

Saint-Pierre 2014 91-92 -- 92 -- -- 265-305

Smith-Haut-Lafitte 2014 95-96 -- 95 -- -- 370-440

TroplongMondot 2014 93-94 92-95 90 -- -- 500-600

Trotanoy 2014 95-96 -- 95 -- -- --

VieuxCh.Certan 2014 95-96 94-97 95 -- -- 850-950

UK OFFICE StAndrew’sHouse, UpperHamRoad, Richmond,TW105LA T:+44(0)2083329386 E:[email protected]

HONG KONG OFFICE 15/F,100Queen’sRoad, CentralHongKong T:+85228248323 E:[email protected]

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Documents

CULT WINES 1 - NORTHERN MEDOC: SAINT-ESTÈPHE & PAUILLAC On a blustery rain-swept morning we arrived in Saint-Estèphe, the most northerly-located top-rated Medoc appellation, with