CTC Leaflet Basic Bike Maintenance

8-PAGE

GUIDE TO BASIC

BIKE MAINTENANCE

Price £1.50. Free to CTC mem

bers with

Cycle magazine, Oct/Nov 2005

A quick guide to cycle mAintenAnce And bike set-up

by ctc – the uk’s nAtionAl cyclists’ orgAnisAtion

Words: chris Juden & ben seArle photos: ben seArle & dAn Joyce

PRE-RIDE CHECKLIST

CLEANING AND LUBRICATING

CHANGING AN INNERTUBE

FIXING A PUNCTURE

REMOVING & REPLACING A WHEEL

ADJUSTING BRAKES AND GEARS

PREVENTING PROBLEMS

WHERE TO LEARN MORE

BASIC BIKE MAINTENANCE

32 CyCLE OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2005

@ Simply tighten, lubricate, pump up or adjust as appropriate.

See later in this guide.b Consult a manual or a professional repairer.

FrONT wheel & brakeCheck the tyre: it should feel hard @. Then look for damage or wear as you slowly turn then spin the wheel, to check it runs true. While you have it off the ground, thump down hard on the top of the wheel to check it doesn’t fall out of the forks @.

Make sure the axle nuts or quick release are tight @, then pull the rim side to side to test for loose hub bearings b. While you’re looking at the rim, check the brake blocks don’t miss it, can’t move relative to the brake , and that the cable is not frayed either here or where it enters the lever b.

haNdlebarsSqueeze the front brake lever hard and look inside to check the brake cable. Push the bike forward; the back wheel should lift off the ground . Rock the bike back and forth.

Any free movement probably means a loose headset b. Now do the same with the rear brake lever: squeeze, cable-check and push: the back wheel should

lock and slide. Neither brake lever should touch the bars . Ensure that both levers are secure and that the handlebar ends are covered by grips or plugs @.

Then face the bike, grip the front wheel between your knees and check the handlebars don’t twist sideways or rotate in the stem @. Check that the stem has not been raised above its height limit mark.

FrameInspect your frame, particularly just behind head tube. Wrinkled paint or bent tubes indicate the bike has been in an accident and the frame should be replaced b.

If you have suspension, check that it is correctly adjusted to your weight and that there is no excess play between moving parts b.

TraNsmissiONGrab the cranks and check for any sideways looseness b. Make sure your pedals are secure in the cranks and they are not bent or damaged b.

You’ll want something (or someone) to lift the back wheel off the ground so you can turn the pedals. Do that whilst

PRE-RIDE BIKE CHECKshifting all the way up and down a couple of times, front and rear. Check that every click delivers the next gear and the chain doesn’t overshoot at either end . Be sure the chain runs smoothly with no stiff links .

With internal hub gears, also check that the pedals cannot slip forwards in any gear b and that the chain is not too loose. Play should not exceed 2cm at its midpoint – this also applies for single-speed bikes b.

saddleEnsure the saddle isn’t loose by twisting and rocking it @. The saddle top should be near horizontal and the seatpost must never be raised above the limit mark.

rear wheel & brakeLift the bike by the saddle to check the rear wheel just like the front. Put it down and check the rim, hub and brake the same way too.

aCCessOries As you check the bike, ensure that any accessories such as mudguards, locks, bottles, pumps, carriers and luggage etc. are all securely fitted @ and in the case of lights and reflectors: working b and clean .

I t is important that your bike is always in good working order. If you start at the front wheel,

following a letter ‘M’ shape, move up to the handlebars, down to the chainset, back up to the saddle, and down to the rear wheel and gears, you’ll not miss anything.

This sort of check is recommended by National Standards for Cycle Training: it’s a quick but thorough assessment of the whole bike for damage, wear and security. Even a new bicycle should be checked.

The following symbols indicate what you should do if you find a fault:

“The National Standards for Cycle Training ‘M-check’ assesses the bike for damage, wear, and security”

Squeeze the front brake and rock the bike back and forward

THE NATIONAL STANDARD?The National Standard for Cycle Training has been developed by all the bodies involved in cycle training and is supported by the Government, cycling and road safety organisations. CTC runs the scheme’s Training Helpline. National Standard trains cyclists to be competent and confident using their bikes for all sorts of journeys. Part of the three-level course includes basic bike maintenance.


CLEAN & LUBEA part from looking better, a

clean bike is more reliable. Go through this routine at

least once a month, or after any dirty ride, and it’ll be a lot easier to spot and remedy any faults before they become expensive problems.

PreParaTiONCollect in a bucket some old sponges and brushes (tooth-, bottle-, scrubbing- …) or buy a set designed for the job.

A workstand to lift the back wheel is convenient. Or just lean the bike against a wall. Don’t turn it upside down, however, or water may enter the headset and other bearings.

CleaNiNGA car jet wash will blast water into bike bearings – even ‘sealed’ ones. A bucket of warm water plus washing-up liquid or car shampoo works pretty well, but the following method is better still.

Spray the cycle with a biodegradable cleaner, loosening hardened mud with your brushes. Use a water soluble degreaser on stubborn oily grime, including the chain.

Special brushes and scrapers are available to get between sprockets, and there are devices to

contain the mess whilst cleaning the chain, but screwdrivers and strips of cloth will do.

Finally rinse down with cold water. A garden hose can be used with care, e.g. with a brush attachment.

Let the bike dry. Bike polishes help dispel water and give your bike a bright finish that’s easier to clean next time.

lUbiNGSpray the chain with a water dispersant (e.g. WD40) then re-lubricate when dry. Clean PTFE (Teflon) lubricants are good for fair-weather cycling, but only a ‘clingy’ oil will stand the wet or mountain biking.

Turn the pedals backwards whilst spraying or dribbling lubricant onto the middle (rollers) of the chain as it leaves the rear mech.

Lubricate gear and brake pivot points, and where cables enter housings. Keep lubricants away from tyres, rims and discs.

WASH AND GOMost of the products mentioned throughout this guide are available from CTC Shop – where members get 10% off. Tel: 0870 873 0069 or buy online: www.ctcshop.com

BARBIERI CHAIN CLEANER SET £14.99

Clean your chain on the bike without mess. Contact: 01727 798345, www.fisheroutdoor.co.uk

FINISH LINE TEFLON-PLUS ‘DRy’ LUBE £4.99 (4oz)A clean dry lube for chains and all pivot points. For very wet conditions and muddy mountain biking, use Finish Line’s Cross Country lube (same price). Contact: Madison 0208 385 3385, www.ultimatepursuits.co.uk

MUC-OFF BIKE CLEANER £6.49Economical and effective bike cleaner – safe for all cycle components. Contact: 01202

307790, www.muc-off.com

MUC-OFF BIKE SPRAy £5.99Use on components and frame to drive out water and leave a water- and dirt- repellant surface. Contact: as above

MINOURA DS500 FOLD-ING STAND £16.99Lifts the back wheel off the ground. Good for cleaning

and gear adjustments. Contact: 01845 521700, www.zyro.co.uk

OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2005 CyCLE 33

“It’s easier to spot and fix any faults on a clean bike before they become expensive problems”

Free stiff chain links by bending chain or use a chain link tool



I t’s quicker simply to swap the tube than to patch a puncture at the roadside – perhaps in

the rain – so always carry a spare. Once you’ve got the wheel off , follow these steps.

FiNd The CaUseNever fix a puncture without finding and removing whatever made it. First quickly inspect the outside of the tyre for thorns or glass, hissing if not completely flat, or bubbles if wet. If you find anything, count how many spokes it is from the valve, forwards or backwards. Repeated punctures mean something’s still stuck in the tyre!

remOViNG a TUbe Remove the valve cap, completely deflate the tube and unscrew any ring before pushing the valve up into the tyre, to free it.

Insert a tyre lever under the tyre bead (its edging), pull up and over the rim edge then hook this lever behind a spoke. Insert another about 15cm (6in) away and slide it around the rim, lifting the tyre bead completely off one side.

Pull the tube out and lay it down as it came out of the tyre.

To help remember which way around the tube was, attach a pump from the side away from the wheel. Pump up the tube until you hear hissing or until the tube is twice as fat.

FiNd The hOleTip: hold the tube near your lips, feel the air and dab the hole with your tongue. Then make a big cross with a ballpoint pen – one line along the tube, the other all around it. (Dipping the tube in water to look for bubbles is a last resort).

Align the tube with the tyre, valve by hole in rim. Closely examine the tyre adjacent to that mark, feeling for sharp things inside and looking for cuts or embedded objects outside.

If you find nothing, widen the search – a tyre can shift when it’s flat or maybe you flipped the tube. Finally, even if you found that one, feel all round for any further puncture-makers.

Sometimes the cause of a puncture is so obvious it’s quickest to find the hole in the tube by reference to that, rather than vice-versa. Mark it, then fit your spare.

CHANGING AN INNERTUBE

CheCk The rimIf the hole appears to be on the rim-facing surface of the tube: ensure the rim tape is central in the rim and able to prevent punctures from spoke heads and holes. Check for protruding spokes etc.

FiTTiNG a TUbeIf you took the tyre off, fit one side back onto the rim. Inflate the tube just enough to give it shape, then remove pump, fit valve to rim and push tube inside tyre.

FiTTiNG The TYreStarting opposite the valve, use your fingers and/or thumbs to fit the second tyre bead. Stop when you get to the final tight part and go back over the length already fitted, pushing it deeper into the middle of the rim and if necessary deflating the tube, to make some slack. Fit a bit, push down again and so on, working back and forth to slacken that tight section and make it short enough to roll over with one hand, whilst the other hand pushes up the valve.

Check that the tube and valve base are not caught under the tyre bead; inflate a little and free if necessary. (It’s easier to avoid trapping the valve if you start there, but then you can’t make as much slack so that’ll do only for easily fitted tyres.)

Inflate to about 1.5 bar (20psi) and spin the wheel. If the tyre wobbles, push and pull it straight. Inflate to the recommended pressure and check the bead again. Replace the valve cap.

“Find the cause of the puncture, address that, then fit your spare innertube”

Left: Secure one tyre lever and slide the other

Right: Use your thumbs, not tyre levers, to get the last section of tyre on


F ind and mark the hole as described above, with a cross at least three times

bigger than the patch. The smallest patches are fine for thorn and pin holes, bigger for glass and flint cuts. Cuts longer than about 3mm (1/8in) will grow under the patch. Mend them if you must, but discard the tube as soon as you can. Self-adhesive (glueless) patches are also temporary. Apart from those exceptions, a well-patched tube can be just as reliable as a new one.

aPPlY sOlUTiONWith the tube inflated or stretched over something (e.g. saddle nose) thoroughly sand it to remove any moulding marks and make the tube a darker matt black over an area twice the size of the patch. Keep the arms of your cross still visible. Let out all the air and spread ONE thin film of solution over the target area with a clean, dry finger in one or two quick movements. Let it dry. Really dry. It’s easy to put on too much and be too hasty. Be patient and never re-touch the centre of the target area or blow on it – your breath is damp.

Note: most patches now come with a vulcanising solution that works better on modern butyl tubes than old-style rubber solution. But don’t mix up the solutions and patches!

aPPlY PaTChPeel off the backing (usually metal foil) and centre the patch on the target. Press it down firmly, working from the centre outwards. Pinch the tube and patch to crack the cellophane (or paper) topping and peel that off from the centre outwards.

If the repair is good the patch will stretch with the tube. If not, that’ll be because you didn’t clean the tube enough, didn’t let the solution dry properly or put it on too thick, so it was still wet underneath. A second go with the failed patch can work surprisingly well. Peel it off, put a thin solution on both patch and tube – and wait longer – and re-apply! But if that seems too mean, you can start all over again with a new one.

Dust around the repair (with any old dust that comes to hand) to de-sticky any unpatched solution, re-fit and pump up to full pressure.


FIXING A PUNCTURE

“Apply one thin layer of solution. Let it dry. Really dry. Be patient. It’s easy to put on too much or be too hasty”

Thoroughly sand the target area untilit’s a darker matt black

WHAT TO TAKE WITH yOUTake a spare tube, tyres levers, patch kit, pump and a mini-tool on every ride.

REMA TIP TOP PATCH KIT TT05 £3.95Hard to find

but the best. This version comes with tyre levers. Contact: www.wiggle.co.uk

TOPEAK HEXUS (HUMMER) 16 £17.99Allen keys, screwdrivers, good chain tool, spoke keys and more… Contact: 01933 672170, www.extrauk.co.uk

TOPEAK EINSTEIN II, £24.99Quality mini-pump, 2-stage pressure selector works up to 160psi. Contact: 01933 672170, www.extrauk.co.uk

MINOURA HANDy EXCEL 11, £12.99Top-notch allen key set with fold-out socket driver and sockets for crank bolts. Contact: 01845 521700, www.zyro.co.uk

VAR TyRE LEVER, £6.99Also designed to safely fit tyres, even very tight ones. Contact: www.bikeplus.co.uk

MICHELIN AIRSTOP INNER TUBE, £3.99More reliable and easily patched than most. Check valve and size. Contact: 0178 240 1853, www.michelin.co.uk



R emoving and fitting your bike’s wheels is one of the most essential skills

you’ll learn. It’s needed to repair punctures in a sensible fashion (you can’t get the whole innertube past the fork otherwise), to replace worn tyres, to pack the bike for carriage, and so on.

Removing a derailleur geared wheel is straightforward. A hub gear might not be . If you have nutted wheels, use a correctly fitting spanner that’s at least 18cm (7in) – longer if you are not very strong – to obtain sufficient leverage.

Before you start it will help to first open up the brake’s quick-release to avoid the tyre snagging against the brake blocks – see opposite .

rear wheel remOValShift the chain to the smallest front and rear sprockets. Pull the hub’s quick-release lever back 180 degrees to open fully.

Lift the bike, pull the chain and rear derailleur back, and let the wheel drop out. A small thump on the tyre may be necessary to make the wheel fall.

FrONT wheel remOValRemove the front wheel in a similar manner to the rear. If your frame has ‘safety’ lips on the dropouts, the wheel will not simply drop out.

First, you’ll need to open the quick-release fully. Then loosen off the knurled nut on the opposite side a few turns to clear the lips.

REMOVING AND FITTING WHEELS

wheel FiTTiNGTo fit a wheel, first fully open the quick-release. If you are not sure of this, operate the lever back and forth and watch its base move in and out. The lever may indicate its open and closed states. Usually both front and rear levers are on the left side of the bike.

rear wheel FiTTiNG Pull back the rear derailleur fully so that you can lift the top part of the chain over the smallest cog and let the bottom part hang below.

With the derailleur pulled back, pull the wheel fully into the dropouts. If the wheel does not centre automatically in the frame, seek further advice b.

Keeping it there, close the quick-release fully – where its closure isn’t limited by another part of the bike. This should feel firm but not require excessive force.

If you need to adjust the amount of force, open the lever, then tighten or loosen the knurled nut on the opposite side to increase or decrease it.

FrONT wheel FiTTiNGThe front wheel is the same, without the complication of the chain or the gears. If you had to unscrew the knurled nut so that the wheel could drop out past ‘safety’ lips, then once the wheel is in place you will need to tighten this again before closing the lever.

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B oth are operated by cables, which often require tightening. Do this by

unscrewing an adjuster (pictured), or else you must loosen the cable clamp, pull some cable through and re-clamp it.

brake adJUsTmeNTsWhen working on a rim brake or removing a wheel it is often useful to release it so that the brake blocks open out wider. Racing brakes often have a release lever where the cable attaches, or the brake lever may have catch that lets it open further. On V-brakes the ‘noodle’ tube can be pulled out of its yoke and on cantilever brakes it’s usually possible to unhook the straddle cable from one brake arm.

Check brake block alignment with the rim. They should hit the rim squarely with no part of the block missing the rim or touching the tyre. Some brake shoes have an open end for block replacement, which must face backwards. Brakes often work better if the front of each block touches the rim 0.5-1mm before its rear.

Pull hard on the brake lever several times to bed the cable and if necessary use an adjuster (on lever, brake, or elsewhere) to bring the brake blocks closer to the rim. If the adjuster is at its maximum, screw it back in and tighten the cable at its clamp. Test the brake

again. Some brakes have balancing screws at the sides: screw inwards to stop that side rubbing.

derailleUr Gear adJUsTmeNTsWhen an indexed gear cable stretches, shifts become sluggish in the direction pulled by the cable. So tighten it with the adjuster(s) on the mechanism, frame or shifter. If shifting then becomes reluctant in the other (return spring) direction, screw the adjuster back in a bit.

Gears may even become one whole click out of synch. Starting with the shifter (lever, twist-grip etc.) in top or bottom gear, whichever produces a slack cable, give it one click and make sure that this delivers the next gear. If instead it takes another click before anything useful happens, you need to tighten the cable quite a lot: probably at the clamp, after screwing in the adjusters as described above for brakes.

If prompt shifts in one direction can’t be had without sluggish shifts the other way, you have sticky cables. Lubricate them or replace the outer casings.

If the chain overshoots or simply will not engage the top or bottom gear, front or rear, you need to tighten (overshoots) or loosen (won’t go) the High or Low limit screw on the relevant gear mechanism.

BRAKES&GEARS

HOME TOOLKIT ESSENTIALSBuy tools to take with you first, then expand upon these as necessary.

TOPEAK JOE BLOW MAX II, £19.99Good value floor pump with pressure gauge – fits all valves. Contact: 01933 672170, www.extrauk.co.uk

CyCLUS CRANK EXTRACTOR, from £7.50Removes cranks from bottom bracket spindles – check type required. Contact: www.wiggle.co.uk

SHIMANO SIS CABLE CUTTERS, £29.99Cuts all cycle

cables and outer casing – difficult to manage without. Contact: Madison 0208 385 3385, www.ultimatepursuits.co.uk

PARK MINI CHAIN BRUTE, £15.95Top quality, to remove and install any derailleur chain, and remove stiff links. Contact: Madison 0208 385 3385, www.ultimatepursuits.co.uk

BONDHUS PRO HEX KEy SET, £17.99Durable allen keys provide leverage, ball-ends reach awkward corners. Contact: 01223 213800, www.ison-distribution.com

CyCLUS CHAIN WEAR INDICATOR, £11.99Lets you know whether to clean your chain or replace it! Contact: www.wiggle.co.uk

Above left: On ‘V’ or cantilever brakes, hold brake blocks in and un-hook the brake cable

Above right: Adjust the cable first then the limit screws if necessary

Left page, top: Lift the bike, pull the chain and rear derailleur back and let the wheel drop out

“Some brakes have balancing screws at the sides: screw inwards to stop that side rubbing”


B eing a good bike mechanic is not about the skill to rebuild your bike at the

road side. It’s about maintaining your bike so you don’t have to! Maintenance is best applied little and often. Act as soon as you hear an odd noise, feel a slight knocking, or notice your brake feeling spongy. As you become more experienced you’ll recognise potential problems sooner.

In addition, the cycle should have an annual overhaul – more often if used heavily off-road – when everything is cleaned and checked, worn parts are replaced, and all bearings lubricated as appropriate.

The single most important thing you can do is to keep your tyres fully inflated. Under-inflation causes poor handling, tyre wear, and increases the chance of rim damage and punctures. Cycling also requires

much more effort! Punctures are the most common breakdown, and difficult to avoid completely. If you really hate punctures, use tyres with puncture-prevention features or even fit Slime-filled tubes (www.slime.com).

Lastly, after a day in the rain and especially in winter, wipe the chain dry and spray with WD40 or a PTFE spray. Otherwise you’ll get rust and stiff links.

learNiNG mOreYou don’t need to know everything – just where to go next…

bOOksThe Bike Book, 4th Edition, £14.99 – Fred Milson, Haynes, ISBN 1-84425-000-8. Beginner friendly best-seller, full colour and very clear. Revised 2003.

Bicycling Illustrated Bicycle Maintenance, £15.99 – Todd Downs, Rodale, ISBN 1-4050-8788-9. Very detailed fully comprehensive US classic. UK edition just published. Revised 2005.

Bicycle Maintenance, £14.99 – Ben Searle, The Crowood Press, ISBN 1-86126-084-9. Includes detail for older bikes and tourers, and building wheels. Pub. 1997.

websiTesProduct technical informationShimano: http://cycle.shimano-eu.com/ Go to ‘Products’ then component of choice.Campagnolo: www.campagnolo.com/home.phpSRAM: www.sram24.com/newtechdoc/english/dealers/index.htmlSturmey-Archer: www.sturmey-archer.com

General cycle maintenancewww.sheldonbrown.com/repair/index.html – A vast resource on all things cycling.http://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/Bicycle_repair – The user-editable encyclopedia.

Classes, COUrses aNd QUaliFiCaTiONsThere is nothing like first hand experience to help you learn. Local bike shops, cycling clubs or your local authority may have courses or experts available to help you learn.

See the Training section on the CTC website www.ctc.org.uk/cycletraining for more information on National Standards and links to bike maintenance courses. Alternatively, call the Training Helpline, tel: 0870 607 0415.


CTC is the UK’s national cyclists’ organisation. CTC offers a comprehensive and specialised service for the leisure and commuting cyclist. We provide technical advice, information, a magazine, cycling related legal aid, insurance, organised tours, specialist mail order, and thousands of cycling events annually. CTC is at the forefront in campaigning to improve the UK cycling environment.

CTC membership costs from just £12 per year. Find out more

at www.ctc.org.uk. Join online or phone CTC Membership on 0870 873 0061. CTC members can obtain extra copies of this supplement. For details, tel: 0870 873 0060.

This supplement first appeared in Cycle magazine, Oct/Nov 2005. It was published by James Pembroke Publishing, on behalf of CTC. Supplement run-ons were printed by St Ives (Plymouth) Ltd. It is copyright CTC, James Pembroke Publishing and individual contributors. Reproduction in whole or in part without permission is prohibited.

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CTC Leaflet Basic Bike Maintenance