Crochet Me Free Baby Patterns

Free babycrochet patterns from

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crochet patterns

6 FREE

for babies

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2

Free baby crochet patterns from

h

crochet patterns

6 FREE

for babies

h

crochet patterns

6 FREE

for babies

Free baby crochet patternsfrom

1 Funky Stuffed Toys Judith L. Swartz

2 Toddler Poncho Candi Jensen

3 Seashell and Posies Dress Elissa Sugishita

4 Kathryn in Beauly Dress and Hat Kathy Merrick

5 Anna Cardigan Robyn Chachula

6 Mari Nursing Wrap Robyn Chachula

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4

6

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3Table of Contents presented by crochetme!

1 Funky Stuffed Toys Judith L. Swartz . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .pagE 4

2 Toddler Poncho Candi Jensen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . pagE 8

3 Seashell and Posies Dress Elissa Sugishita . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .pagE 11

4 Kathryn in Beauly Dress and Hat Kathy Merrick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .pagE 15

5 Anna Cardigan Robyn Chachula . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .pagE 19

6 Mari Nursing Wrap Robyn Chachula . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . pagE 23

Stich Glossary . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . pagE 28

FREE baby CRoChET paTTERnS FRoM CRoChET ME: 6 FREE

CRoChET paTTERnS FoR babiES

a CrochetMe eBook edited by MaRCy SMiTh

Editorial StaffEdiToR Marcy Smith

pRoJECT EdiToR Sarah ReadaSSiSTanT EdiToR Toni Rexroat

CrEativE SErv iCES

dESignER Tammy beardphoTogRaphy as noted

iLLuSTRaTion gayle Ford

projects and information are for inspiration and personal use only.

Baby crochet patterns are very satisfying! For one thing, they‘re small, so you can exercise your crochet creativity pretty fast. Moms always appreciate crochet for babies—they know that it arrives with extra love. And if your crochet baby sweater or crochet baby hat is too big, just wait a month and it will fit! Babies always love what you give them, especially if it‘s a colorful crochet toy.

Here we give you 6 free crochet baby patterns. these crochet patterns for babies range from crocheted baby dresses for your favorite little fashionista to a stylish crochet nursing cover for mom.

for a crochet baby pattern that suits all babies, make the Funky Stuffed Toys by JuDiTH L. SWArTz. Made up of simple rectangles, these crochet toys are perfect crochet projects for a big sister or brother to make for the new baby in the house. Even experienced crocheters will have fun adding their own details to this baby crochet pattern.

the Toddler Poncho by CANDi JeNSeN is retro crochet pattern that is just right for hip little girls. fun pompoms finish off this easy crochet accessory, perfect for a stash-busting crochet project.

the Seashell and Posies Dress by eLiSSA SuGiSHiTA is a classic crochet baby dress. Worked in the round from hem to top, it calls for seaming just at the shoulders. flowers in a contrasting color highlight the empire waist, while a crochet border defines the hem, neckline and sleeve edges. it‘s sized from 9 months to 3 years, so you can make matching crocheted dresses for baby and big sister.

KATHy MerriCK, the queen of crochet in color, has designed a very fun dress with bands of color. the easy-fitting dress closes with a single button at the back neck. the set is finished with a crochet baby hat pattern of a different stripe: it is a bonnet inspired by the Scottish Highlands for which the dress is named.

a crochet baby sweater by roByN CHACHuLA rounds out baby‘s garment collection. this textured, easy-to-wear crochet cardigan closes at the neck. Pretty three-dimensional roses are a festive touch around the neckline.

for mom, the Mari Nursing Wrap by roByN CHACHuLA is a great present. Mom can use the blanket as a discreet nursing cover, attaching the wrap over her neck with the strap. then Mari becomes a great blanket for baby. Made in a washable cotton/linen yarn, this nursing cover becomes softer with every wash.

these free crochet patterns for babies are our gift to you, so you can give to others. We hope you enjoy them!

Best,

Marcy SmithEditor, CrochetMe.com

Free baby crochet patterns from

h

crochet patterns

6 FREE

for babies

h

crochet patterns

6 FREE

for babies

Free baby crochet patternsfrom

Free baby crochet patterns from Crochet Me: 6 frEE crochet patterns for babies©Interweave | Not to be reprinted | All rights reserved | www.crochetme.com

Funky Stuffed Toysdesign by Judith L. Swartz

Originally published in Getting Started: Crochet (Interweave 2006)

Bright colors and simple details deFine this cat and dog. they are a great exercise in striping, with a little shaping thrown in. stuff them tightly or slightly for

different looks. Whipstitched seams add another touch of color and emphasize the handmade look. With the exception of the ears and tails, both animals are constructed the same, just in different colors.

Finished Size: about 13¼" (33.5 cm) long and 4" (10 cm) wide, excluding arms and ears.

yarn: tahki Cotton Classic (100% mercerized cotton; 108 yards [100 meters], 50 grams; ): #3412 orange (a), #3528 yellow (B), #3744 dark green (C), #3764 bright green (d), #3783 turquoise (E), #3856 navy (f), and #3947 red violet (G). for Cat, use 1 skein each of a, C, d, E, G; for dog, use 1 skein each of a, B, C, d, E, f, G. (Note: the total number of skeins listed above will make more than 2 animals.)

Hook: Size G/6 (4 mm). adjust hook size if necessary to obtain correct gauge.

Notions: Yarn needle, for sewing and weaving in ends; two 3⁄8" (1 cm) diameter buttons per animal, for eyes; stuffing (either cotton batting or polyester fiberfill).

Gauge: 20 stitches and 24 rows = 4" (10 cm) in sc with size G/6 (4 mm) hook.

Skill Level: intermediate.

Joe

Coc

a

5presented by crochetme!Funky Stuffed Toys

Free baby crochet patterns from Crochet Me: 6 frEE crochet patterns for babies

CaT

BackWith color E, ch 21.Row 1: Beginning in second ch from hook, work 1 sc in

each ch, turn work—20 sc.Row 2: Ch 1, work 1 sc in each sc across row, turn work.Rows 3–4: repeat row 2. fasten off E.Rows 5–8: Using color G, repeat row 2. fasten off G.repeating row 2, continue to alternate 4 rows with E, followed by 4 rows with G for a total of 28 rows. fasten off.

FrontWith G, ch 21. Work as for Back, alternating 4 rows in G, followed by 4 rows in a for a total of 28 rows. fasten off.

Head (make 2 pieces) With d, ch 15.Row 1: Beginning in second ch from hook, work 1 sc in

each ch, turn work—14 sc.Row 2: Ch 1, work 1 sc in each sc across row, turn work.

GSC - Chapter 6, Funky ToysSchematic

GSC - Chapter 6, Funky ToysSchematic

2¾" (7 cm)

HEAD

ARMCAT or

DOGBODY

32 ⁄3" (9.3 cm)

LEG LEG

DOG EARS

make 2

DOG TAIL

1½" (3.8 cm)2"

(5 c

m)

1" (2.5 cm)

2" (5 cm)

4" (10 cm)

Fold

Len

gth

wis

e

31 ⁄3" (8

.6 c

m)

5" (1

2½ c

m)

5½"

(14

cm)

2¾"

(7 c

m)

1½"

(3.8

cm

)

11⁄3" (3.3 cm)

CAT EARS

make 2

1½"

(3.8

cm

)

7½"

(19

cm)

CAT TAIL

Fold

Len

gth

wis

e

1" (2.5 cm)



repeat row 2 until head measures a total length of about 2¾" (7 cm) or 16 rows. fasten off.

Arms (make 2, worked from shoulder down)

With color C, ch 16. Row 1: Beginning in second chain from hook, work 1 sc

in each ch, turn work—15 sc.Row 2: Ch 1, work 1 sc in each sc across row, turn work.

Note: don’t fasten off C. allow the unused color to hang at the side edge and pull up into place when ready to use again. don’t pull yarn up too tightly, or work will pucker along side edge.

Rows 3–4: Using color E, repeat row 2. don’t fasten off E.

drop E and pick up C where it hangs along side edge. Continue to repeat row 2, alternating 2 rows with C followed by 2 rows with E for a total of 18 rows. fasten off C and E. attach d and work 4 rows sc (repeating row 2). fasten off.

Legs (make 2, worked from thigh down)

With color a, ch 21. Row 1: Beginning in second ch from hook, work 1 sc in

each ch, turn work—20 sc.Row 2: Ch 1, work 1 sc in each sc across row, turn work.repeat row 2 until work measures 2" (5 cm). fasten off a. attach G and continue repeating row 2 for an additional 2" (5 cm). fasten off G. attach d and continue repeating row 2 for 1" (2.5 cm). fasten off d.

Tail (worked from tip to top)

With color E, ch 11. Row 1: Beginning in second ch from hook, work 1 sc in

each ch, turn work—10 sc.Row 2: Ch 1, work 1 sc in each sc across row, turn work.repeat row 2 until tail measures 1½" (3.8 cm). fasten off E. *Join a, repeat row 2 for 1½" (3.8 cm). fasten off*. repeat from * to * in colors C, d, and G. finished tail measures 7½" (19 cm), and each color section is 1½" (3.8 cm) long.

ears (make 2)

With color a, ch 8. Row 1: Beginning in second ch from hook, work 1 sc in

each ch, turn work—7 sc.Row 2: Ch 1, work 1 sc in each sc across row, turn work. Row 3: Ch 1, decrease 1 stitch by pulling up a loop in first

sc, pull up a loop in second sc, wrap yarn around hook, pull through all loops on hook (see Glossary), work 1 sc in each of remaining sc, turn work—6 sc. repeat row 3 five more times (1 stitch remains). fasten off.

FinishingWeave in loose ends. to create face, with color G, sew buttons for eyes on 1 head piece and embroider nose/mouth as shown in diagram. if you prefer, omit buttons for eyes and embroider 2 triangles (not shown here) in same place as buttons. Use whipstitch on right sides of work (seaming is visible) to sew all pieces together. With E, join both head pieces together around side and upper edges, leaving the bottom open. With the face side toward you, place the ears in front of the head seam and attach to top of head piece. Whipstitch around edges of ears. Mark center of each head piece and center of body front and back. Center head over body and join front and back together at shoulders. Sew body side

Joe

Coc

a



seams and stuff head and body as desired. Stitch along bottom edges of body to close. fold tail lengthwise with wrong sides together and stitch along the long edge and across chain edge. Sew open end of tail to lower edge of center back. fold arms in half lengthwise with wrong sides together and stitch along side and lower edges. Stuff arms as desired. Sew open edges of arm to close. fold leg pieces in half lengthwise with wrong sides together and sew along side and lower edges. Stuff legs as for arms. Sew open edges of leg to close. attach arms and legs in place to body.

dog

BackWork same as for Cat, beginning with C, and alternating 4 rows each in C and G for a total of 28 rows.

FrontWork same as for Cat, beginning with G and alternating 4 rows each in G, then B, for a total of 28 rows.

Head (make 2 pieces)

Work same as for Cat, using a.

Arms (make 2, worked from shoulder down)

Work same as for Cat, beginning with d and alternating 2 rows each in d, then E, for a total of 18 rows. attach a and work 4 rows.

Legs (make 2, worked from thigh down)

Work same as for Cat in 2" (5 cm) segments beginning with f, then E. With a, work final 1" (2.5 cm).

Tail (worked from top down to tip)

With E, ch 11. Row 1: Beginning in second ch from hook, work sc in

each ch, turn work—10 sc.Row 2: Ch 1, work 1 sc in each sc across row, turn work.

fasten off E.repeat row 2 working 2 rows each in d, C, f, G, a, B; don’t fasten off B. Continue working in B and decrease 1 stitch at beginning of next 6 rows by pulling up a loop in first sc, pull up a loop in second sc, wrap yarn around hook, pull through all loops on hook—4 sc remain. fasten off.

earsWith color G, ch 7.Row 1: Beginning in second ch from hook, work sc in

each ch, turn work—6 sc.Row 2: Ch 1, work 1 sc in each sc across row, turn work.Row 3: Ch 1, work 2 sc in first sc, work 1 sc in each of next

4 sc, work 2 sc in last sc, turn work—8 sc. repeating row 2, work 3 rows in sc over 8 stitches.

Rows 7–12: Ch 1, decrease 1 stitch (work decreases using the same method as in tail), work 1 sc in each sc across row, turn work (2 sc remain after row 12 is finished). fasten off.

Finishingfollow finishing instructions for Cat, except use B for face embroidery and whipstitch seaming. Place ears on top of head, aligning edge of ear with side of head; there will be a small space centered between the ears. -

JUditH l. SWartZ is author of interweave's Hip to Crochet and Getting Started Crochet.

GSC - Chapter 6 Funky ToysFacial Diagram

Back Stitch

Cross Stitch

Button for Eye

1 Single Crochet

GSC - Chapter 6 Funky ToysFacial Diagram

16 15 1413121110 98 7 6 5 4 3 2 1


Toddler Ponchodesign by Candi Jensen

Originally published in Interweave Crochet Fall 2005

candi Jensen’s designs are oFten inspired By the children in her neighBorhood. Bright colors and easy shaping are hallmarks of her work, and this poncho is no exception. Worked in rounds in soft washable wool accented with two fluffy pom-poms, the project is quick enough to complete in a weekend. all the pint-sized princesses in your life will find the poncho the perfect accessory for their tiaras and gowns.

Finished Size: Neck opening: 18" (45.5 cm) in circumference. Bottom opening: 36" (91.5 cm) in circumference. length: 11" (28 cm).

yarn: Cascade 220 Superwash (100% wool; 220 yd [201 m]/3½ oz [100 g]; ): #833 red (MC), and #836 pink (CC), 1 ball each.

Hook: Size H/8 (5 mm). adjust hook size as necessary to obtain correct gauge.

Notions: tapestry needle.Gauge: 12 sts = 4" (10 cm); first 4 rows in patt = 2" (5 cm).

Skill Level: Easy

Stitch GuideBobble: (Yo, insert hook in next st, yo, draw yarn through st, yo, draw through 2 loops on hook) 3 times in same st, yo, draw through all 4 loops on hook.Shell (sh): 3 dc in same st.

Chr

is H

artlo

ve

9presented by crochetme!Toddler poncho


PonchoWith MC, ch 52 and join with sl st in first ch, taking care not to twist chain. Rnd 1: (rS) Ch 2 (counts as first hdc), hdc in each ch

around, sl st in 2nd ch of beg ch to join, turn—52 sts.Rnd 2: (WS) Ch 4 (counts as dc, ch 1), skip next st, sh

(see Stitch Guide) in next st, ch 1, skip next st, *dc in next st, ch 1, skip next st, sh in next st, ch 1, skip next st; rep from * around, sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch to join, turn—13 sh; 78 sts.

Rnd 3: Ch 2 (counts as first hdc), hdc in each of next 37 sts, 2 hdc in next st, hdc in each of next 38 sts, 2 hdc in next st, sl st in 2nd ch of beg ch to join, turn—80 sts. fasten off MC, join CC.

Rnd 4: With CC, ch 1, *sc in next 3 sts, bobble (see Stitch Guide) in next st; rep from * around, sl st in first sc to join, turn—20 bobbles; 80 sts. fasten off CC, join MC.

Rnd 5: With MC, ch 2 (counts as first hdc), hdc in each of next 8 sts, 2 hdc in next st, *hdc in each of next 9 sts, 2 hdc in next st; rep from * around, sl st in 2nd ch of beg

ch to join, turn—88 sts.Rnd 6: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), skip next st, sh in next st,

skip next st, dc in next st, skip next st, sh in next st, skip next st; rep from * around, sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch to join—22 sh; 88 sts.

Rnd 7: Ch 2 (counts as first hdc), hdc in each st around, sl st in 2nd ch of beg ch to join—88 sts.

Rnd 8: rep rnd 4—22 bobbles.Rnd 9: Ch 2 (counts as first hdc), hdc in each of next 9

sts, 2 hdc in next st, *hdc in each of next 10 sts, 2 hdc in next st; rep from * around, sl st in 2nd ch of beg ch to join, turn—96 sts.

Rnd 10: rep rnd 6—24 sh; 96 sts.Rnd 11: Ch 2 (counts as first hdc), hdc in each of next 10

sts, 2 hdc in next st, *hdc in each of next 11 sts, 2 hdc in next st; rep from * around, sl st in 2nd ch of beg ch

chain (ch)slip stitch (sl st)

single crochet (sc)

half double crochet (hdc)

double crochet (dc)

bobble

shell (sh)

chain (ch)slip stitch (sl st)

single crochet (sc)

half double crochet (hdc)

double crochet (dc)

bobble

shell (sh)

Chr

is H

artlo

ve

10presented by crochetme!Toddler poncho


to join, turn—104 sts.Rnd 12: rep rnd 4—26 bobbles; 104 sts.Rnd 13: Ch 2 (counts as first hdc), hdc in each of next 11 sts,

2 hdc in next st, *hdc in each of next 12 sts, 2 hdc in next st; rep from * around, sl st in 2nd ch of beg ch to

join, turn—112 sts.Rnd 14: rep rnd 6—28 sh; 112 sts.Row 15: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), dc in each st around, sl

st in 3rd ch of beg ch to join, turn—112 sts.Rnds 16–23: rep rnds 14 and 15 four times. fasten off

MC, join CC.Rnd 24: With CC, ch 1, *sc in st, skip next st sh in next

st, skip next st; rep from * around, sl st in first sc to join—28 sh; 112 sts. fasten off.

DrawstringWith CC, make a 36" (91.5 cm) ch. With CC, make two 2½" (6.5 cm) pom-poms (see Glossary). Weave drawstring over and under the sts in rnd 1. tie 1 pom-pom to each end of drawstring. -

CaNdi JENSEN delights in designing for the young and young at heart.

Front & Back

18"45.5 cm

11"28 cm

9"23 cm

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Seashell and Posies Dress

design by Elissa SugishitaOriginally published in Interweave Crochet, Spring 2007

Finished Size: 22 (24, 26)" chest circumference, to fit 9–18 months (18–24 months, 2–3 years). dress shown measures 24".

yarn: tahki Cotton Classic (100% cotton; 108 yd [100 m]/1¾ oz [50 g]; ): #3938 lavender (MC), 6 (6, 7) skeins; #3713 green (CC), 1 skein.

Hook: Size E/4 (3.5 mm). adjust hook size if necessary to obtain correct gauge.

Notions: four (four, five) ½" buttons; yarn needle; sewing needle and thread.

Gauge: 24 sts and 13 rows = 4" in sh patt; 20 sts and 10 rows = 4" in dc.


Stitch Guide:Dc3tog (double decrease): [Yo, insert hook in next st,

yo, draw up a lp, yo draw through 2 lps] 3 times, yo, draw through all lps on hook—2 sts dec’d.

Dc2tog: [Yo, insert hook in next st, yo, draw up a lp, yo, draw through 2 lps] 2 times, yo, draw through all lps on hook—1 st dec’d.

4-dc Shell (4-sh): (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in same st or sp.6-dc Shell (6-sh): (3 dc, ch 1, 3 dc) in same st or sp.2-dc Cluster (2-cl): Yo, insert hook in sp indicated, yo

and draw up a lp, yo and draw through 2 lps, yo, insert hook in same sp, yo and draw up a lp, yo and draw through 2 lps, yo and draw through all lps on hook.

Kat

hryn

Mar

tin

this dress is Worked in a circle From the Bottom all the Way up. it requires minimal sewing—only at the shoulder seams. a unique flower trim at the waist complements the beautiful shell pattern of the skirt.

presented by crochetme! 12Seashell and posies dress


3-dc Cluster (3-cl): Yo, insert hook in sp indicated, yo and draw up a lp, yo and draw through 2 lps, [yo, insert hook in same sp, yo and draw up a lp, yo and draw through 2 lps] 2 times, yo and draw through all lps on hook.

Shell Pattern (sh patt) (multiple of 8 sts):Rnd 1: (rS) Ch 1, sc in 2nd ch from hook, *ch 1, sk 3 ch,

6-sh (see Stitch Guide) in next ch, ch 1, sk 3 ch, sc in next ch; rep from * around, omitting last sc of last rep, sl st in first sc to join, turn.

Rnd 2: Ch 6 (counts as dc, ch 3), *sk ch-1 sp, sk 3 dc, sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 3, sk 3 dc, sk ch-1 sp, dc in next sc, ch 3; rep from * around, ending sk ch-1 sp, sk 3 dc, sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 3, sl st in 3rd ch of tch to join, turn.

Rnd 3: Ch 4 (counts as dc, ch 1), 3 dc in same ch as sl st, ch 1, sk ch-3 sp, sc in next sc, *ch 1, sk ch-3 sp, 6-sh in next dc, ch 1, sk ch-3 sp, sc in next sc; rep from * around, ending ch 1, sk last ch-3 sp, 2 dc in same ch as beg, sl st in 3rd ch of tch to join, turn.

Rnd 4: Ch 4, sk 3 dc, sk ch-1 sp, dc in first sc, *ch 3, sk ch-1 sp, sk 3 dc, sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 3, sk 3 dc, sk ch-1 sp, dc in next sc; rep from * around, ending with ch 3, sc in last ch-1 sp, sl st in first ch of tch to join, turn.

Rnd 5: Ch 1, sc in first sc, *ch 1, sk ch-3 sp, 6-sh in next dc, ch 1, sk ch-3 sp, sc in next sc; rep from * around, ending with ch 1, sk ch-3 sp, 6-sh in last dc, ch 1, sk ch-3 sp, sl st in first sc to join, turn.

rep rnds 2–5 for patt.

Decreased Shell Pattern (dec sh patt):Rnd 1: (rS) Ch 1, sc in first sc, *ch 1, sk ch sp, 4-sh (see

Stitch Guide) in next dc, ch 1, sk ch sp, sc in next sc; rep from * around, ending with ch 1, sk ch sp, 4-sh in last dc, ch 1, sk ch-3 sp, sl st in first sc to join, turn.

Rnd 2: Ch 5 (counts as dc, ch 2), *sk ch-1 sp, sk 2 dc, sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 2, sk 2 dc, sk ch-1 sp, dc in next sc, ch 2; rep from * around, ending sk ch-1 sp, sk 2 dc, sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 2, sl st in 3rd ch of tch to join, turn.

Rnd 3: Ch 4 (counts as dc, ch 1), 2 dc in same ch as sl st, ch 1, sk ch-2 sp, sc in next sc, *ch 1, sk ch-2 sp, 4-sh in next dc, ch 1, sk ch-2 sp, sc in next sc; rep from * around, ending with ch 1, sk last ch-2 sp, dc in same ch as beg, sl st in 3rd ch of tch to join, turn.

Rnd 4: Ch 3, sk 2 dc, sk ch-1 sp, dc in first sc, *ch 2, sk ch-1 sp, sk 2 dc, sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 2, sk 2 dc, sk ch-1 sp, dc in next sc; rep from * around, ending with ch 2, sc in last ch-1 sp, sl st in first ch of tch to join, turn.

rep rnds 1–4 for patt.

Trim Stitch Pattern (trim st patt; see stitch diagram):Row 1: Ch 1, sc in first st, *ch 5, sk 3 sts, sc in next st; rep

from * around, ending with ch 2, dc in first sc (counts as ch-3 sp). do not turn.

Row 2: Ch 1, sc in ch-3 sp, *ch 3, sc in next ch-5 sp, ch 4, 3-cl (see Stitch Guide) in 4th ch from hook, ch 5, sl st in 3-cl to form ring, (ch 3, 2-cl [see Stitch Guide] into ring, ch 3, sl st into ring) 3 times, (ch 3, 3-cl) into ring, sc in next ch-5 sp; rep from * around, omitting last sc of final rep, sl st in first sc to join.

Notesthe skirt, waistline, and trim of this dress are worked in the round. the body is worked back and forth, beginning at the center-back opening, up to the armholes. the front and back are then divided and worked separately.

SkirtWith MC, ch 168 (192, 208). Sl st in first ch to form ring, being careful not to twist ch. Work in sh patt (see Stitch Guide) for 8 (9, 10)", ending with rnd 4 of sh patt. Next rnd: Work rnd 1 of dec sh patt (see Stitch Guide)—126 (144, 156) sts rem. Cont working rnds 1–4 of dec sh patt until piece measures 10½ (12½, 14½)" from beg, ending with rnd 2 of dec sh patt. Shape waist: Ch 1, sc 104 (112, 120) evenly around, sl st in beg sc to join. do not turn. Work 2 more rnds in sc. do not break yarn. Floral trim: With WS facing, join CC in back lp only (blo) of first sc with sl st. Working in the opposite direction of the previous rnd and blo, work trim st patt (see Stitch Guide and diagram). fasten off CC. turn. Next row: (RS) With MC and working through both lps, ch 1, sc in each st to end, sl st in beg sc to join, do not turn. Bodice: Ch 3 (counts as dc), sk first sc, dc in each st around, do not join, turn. Work 3 (3, 5) more rows in dc—104 (112, 120) dc. Separate front and backs: (rS) Ch 3 (counts as dc), sk first st, dc in each of next 21 (22, 23) dc, dc3tog (see Stitch Guide), turn—23 (24, 25) dc. Next row: Ch 2, sk first dc, dc in next st (counts as dc2tog), dc in each st to end, turn—22 (23, 24) dc. Cont working left back in dc until piece measures 4¾ (5, 5½)" from beg of bodice. fasten off. Shape right back: With WS facing, join yarn in first st at center back with sl st, ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in each of next 21 (22, 23) dc, dc3tog, turn—23 (24, 25) dc. Next row: Ch 2, sk first dc, dc in next st (counts as dc2tog), dc in each dc to end, turn—22 (23, 24) dc. Cont working in dc until piece measures same as left back. fasten off. Shape front: With rS facing, join yarn to left front in 3rd (5th, 7th) st from back armhole edge. Ch 2, dc2tog (see



Stitch Guide; counts as dc3tog) over next 2 sts, dc in each of next 44 (46, 48) dc, dc3tog, turn. Next row: Ch 2, sk first dc, dc (counts as dc2tog) in next st, dc in each dc to last 2 sts, dc2tog—44 (46, 48) sts. Work 1 more row in dc. Shape right front: Ch 3 (counts as dc), sk first dc, dc in each of next 14 (15, 16) dc, dc3tog, turn—16 (17, 18) dc. Ch 2, sk first dc, dc2tog (counts as dc3tog) over next 2 sts, dc in each dc across, turn—14 (15, 16) dc. Ch 3 (counts as dc), sk first st, dc in each dc to last 2 sts, dc2tog, turn—13 (14, 15) dc. Cont in dc until front measures same as back. fasten off. Shape left front: With rS facing, join yarn in first st of left front with sl st, work as for right front until left front measures same as right front. fasten off.

FinishingJoin shoulder seam: With rS tog and MC, align front and back shoulder and, working through both thicknesses, sl st layers tog. Left-back buttonhole band:

With rS facing and MC, join yarn with sl st to left-back opening at waist, work 2 sc in side of each dc up center-back edge, turn. Next row: Ch 1, sc in first sc, *ch 2, sk 2 sc, sc in each of next 5 sc; rep from * 2 (2, 3) times, sc in each st to end. fasten off. Right-back buttonband: With WS facing and MC, join yarn with sl st to right-back opening at waist, work 2 sc in side of each dc up center-back edge, turn. Next row: Ch 1, sc in each st to end. fasten off. Neck trim: With rS facing and MC, join yarn with sl st to top corner st of left buttonhole band, ch 1, sc around neck opening, working 1 sc per sc and 2 sc in side edge of each dc, ending with an odd number of sts. fasten off MC. Next row: Join CC to first st with sl st, ch 1, sc in first st, *ch 3, sk 1 st, sc in next st; rep from * around. fasten off. Armhole trim: With rS facing, join MC at underarm with sl st. Ch 1, sc around armhole working 2 sc in side of each dc and ending with an even number of sts, sl st in beg sc to join. fasten off MC. Next rnd: Join CC to first st with sl st, ch 1, sc in first st, *ch 3, sk 1 st, sc in next st; rep from * around, ending with ch 3, sl st in beg sc to join. fasten off. Hem: With rS facing, join MC to skirt hem at center back with sl st. Ch 1, sc around bottom of hem working 7 sc between shells and ending with an even number of sts, sl st in beg sc to join. fasten off MC. Next rnd: Join CC to first st with sl st, ch 1, sc in first st, *ch 3, sk 1 st, sc in next st; rep from * around, ending with ch 3, sl st in beg sc to join. fasten off. Weave in loose ends. Steam-block lightly. Sew buttons to right back opposite buttonholes. Weave in loose ends. -

EliSSa SUGiSHita is an avid crocheter and knitter. She has worked in the children’s clothing industry and loves designing clothing for herself and her daughter.

Kat

hryn

Mar

tin

Kat

hryn

Mar

tin



30 (34, 38)"76 (86.5, 96.5) cm

10½ (12½, 14½)"26.5 (31.5, 37) cm

¾"2 cm

2¼ (2½, 3)"5.5 (6.5, 7.5) cm

2½"6.5 cm

3 (3¼, 3½)"7.5 (8.5, 9) cm

3¼ (3½, 3¾)"8.5 (9, 9.5) cm

11 (12, 13)"28 (30.5, 33) cm

chain (ch)

double crochet (dc)

dc2tog decrease

dc3tog decrease

slip st (sl st)

single crochet (sc)

Key

1

2

Trim Stitch Diagram

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Kathryn in Beauly Dress and Hat

design by Kathy MerrickOriginally published in Interweave Crochet, Spring 2008

Pam

ela

Bet

hel

inspired By her namesake niece, designer kathy merrick was reminded of the colors of the highlands around Beauly, scotland, in spring when making this toddler’s dress. the smart bonnet can be worn with the striped edge flat or folded back.Finished Size: dress: 22 (24, 26, 28)" chest circumference; 13½ (14¼, 16¼, 17)" length from shoulder for ages 6–9 months (12 months, 18 months, 24 months). Garment is very loose fitting. Garment shown is 26". Hat 8 (8¼)" from center back to front; 6½ (6½)" from top of head to back of neck to fit ages 6–12 months (12–24 months). Hat shown measures 8".yarn: rowan 4-ply Cotton (100% cotton; 186 yd [178 m]/1¾ oz [50 g]; ): #131 fresh (MC), 2 (2, 3, 3) balls; #146 violetta (a); #142 mandarine (B); #121 ripple (C); #112 opaque (d); #137 cooking apple (E); #130 ardour (f), 1 ball each. Yarns distributed by Westminster fibers.Hook: Size E/9 (3.5 mm). adjust hook size if necessary to obtain correct gauge.Notions: three ½" buttons.Gauge: 18 sts and 16 rows = 4" in hdc.Skill Level: Easy.

16presented by crochetme!Kathryn in beauly dress and hat


Noteson inc rows for dress yoke, do not inc in first and last st. for inc rows 3 and 7 only, do not work in tch of previous row, the last hdc of the row is the last st. dress and bonnet are worked entirely in hdc. dress is worked from the top down.

Stitch GuideHdc3tog: [Yo, insert hook in next st, yo and pull up a lp, yo, draw through 2 lps on hook] 3 times, yo and draw through all lps on hook.

DressWith a, ch 46 (50, 54, 58).Row 1: Hdc in 3rd ch from hook and in each ch across,

turn—45 (49, 53, 57) hdc.Row 2: Change to C, ch 2 (counts as hdc here and

throughout), hdc in each hdc across, turn.Row 3 (inc row): Ch 2, hdc in first hdc, 2 hdc in each

hdc to last hdc, hdc in last hdc, turn—87 (95, 103, 111) hdc.

Row 4: Change to MC, ch 2, hdc in each hdc across, turn.

Row 5: Change to B, ch 2, hdc in each hdc across, turn.Sizes 41¾ (44)" only: Next row: rep row 5.All sizes:Row 6 (6, 7, 7): Change to f, ch 2, hdc in each hdc

across, turn.Row 7 (7, 8, 8) (inc row): rep row 3—171 (187, 203,

219) hdc.Rows 8–9 (9, 10, 10): Change to d, ch 2, hdc in each

hdc across, turn.Row 10 (10, 11, 11): Change to a, ch 2, hdc in each hdc

across, turn.Row 11 (11, 12, 12): Change to E, ch 2, hdc in each hdc

across, turn.

Sizes 41¾ (44)" only: Next row: With E, ch 2, hdc across, turn.

All sizes:Rows 12–13 (13, 15, 15): Change to B, ch 2, hdc in each

hdc across, turn.Row 14 (14, 16, 16): Change to MC, ch 2, hdc in each

hdc across, turn.Row 15 (15, 17, 17) (inc row): Change to C, hdc in each

of next 0 (3, 1, 4) hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc, *hdc in each of next 4 hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc; rep from * to last 0 (3, 1, 4) hdc, hdc in each of rem st(s)—206 (224, 244, 262) hdc. fasten off.

Divide for front, back, sleeves as foll: Right sleeve:Row 1: (rS) Change to MC, ch 5 (5, 6, 6) for underarm,

sk next 35 (37, 41, 43) sts for right back, sl st in next st, ch 2, hdc in each of next 32 (37, 40, 44) hdc for right sleeve, ch 7 (7, 8, 8) for underarm, turn.

Row 2: Hdc in 3rd ch from hook and in each ch and hdc across turn—42 (47, 52, 56) hdc.

Rows 3–6 (7, 8, 9): Ch 2, hdc in each hdc across, turn.Row 7 (8, 9, 10): Change to a, ch 2, hdc in each hdc

across. fasten off.Left sleeve:Row 1: (rS) With rS facing, beg at front edge of right

sleeve, join MC with sl st, ch 5 (5, 6, 6) for underarm, sk next 71 (75, 82, 87) hdc for front, sl st in next st, ch 2, hdc in each of next 32 (37, 40, 44) hdc for left sleeve, ch 7 (7, 8, 8) for underarm, turn.

Rows 2–7 (8, 9, 10): Work as for right sleeve.Back:Row 1: With rS facing, join MC with sl st in 5th (5th, 6th,

6th) left-sleeve-underarm st, hdc in each ch across underarm, hdc2tog (see Glossary) over side edge of first sleeve row and first st of left back, hdc in each of next 33 (37, 40, 43) hdc to end of row; join with right

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back: hdc in each of next 34 (36, 40, 42) hdc across right back to join back of yoke, hdc2tog over last st from right back and side edge of first sleeve row—81 (85, 94, 99) hdc.

Work even until piece measures 3¼ (3¾, 4¼, 4¾)" from underarm. With d, work 2 rows even. With C, work 2 rows even. With f, work 1 row even. With E, work 1 (1, 2, 2) row(s) even. With B, work 1 (1, 2, 2) row(s) even. With a, work 2 rows even. With d, work 1 row even. With f, work 2 rows even. With MC, work 1 row even. With C, work 1 row even. With B, work 2 rows even. With E, work 2 rows even. With f, work 1 row even. With B, work 1 row even. With C, work 1 row even. With MC, work 4 (5, 6, 7) rows even. With a, work 1 row even. fasten off and weave in loose ends.Front:Row 1: With rS facing, join MC with sl st in 5th (5th, 6th,

6th) right sleeve underarm st, hdc2tog over side edge of the first sleeve row and first st of front, hdc in each of next 69 (73, 80, 85) hdc, hdc2tog over last st from front and side edge of first sleeve row—81 (85, 94, 99) hdc.

Work remainder of front as for back.

FinishingSew side and sleeve seams. With rS facing, join MC with sl st to neck edge of right-back neck opening, work 17 (17, 18, 18) hdc down right side of opening, work hdc3tog (see Stitch Guide) over 1 st from right back, 1 st from center of opening, and 1 st from left back, work 17 (17, 18, 18) hdc up left of side opening, turn—35 (35, 37, 37) hdc. Buttonhole row: Ch 3 (counts as hdc, ch 1), sk next

hdc, hdc in next 14, (14, 15, 15) sts, hdc3tog as in last row worked, hdc in each of next 16 (16, 17, 17) sts up right side of opening, turn—32 (32, 34, 34) hdc, 1 ch-1 sp. Next row: Ch 2, hdc in next 14 (14, 15, 15) hdc, hdc3tog as est, hdc in next 13 (13, 14, 14) hdc, hdc in ch-1 sp hdc in last st—31 (31, 33, 33) hdc. Sew button opposite buttonhole.

BonnetNote: Bonnet is worked in a spiral with WS facing, without joining rnds. With a, ch 3.Rnd 1: 7 hdc in 3rd ch from hook, place marker (pm) in

last st. Note: Move marker up with each rnd to indicate where to change colors—8 hdc.

Rnd 2: Change to C, 2 hdc in each hdc around to m—16 hdc.

Rnd 3: Hdc in each hdc around to m.Rnd 4: Change to MC, 2 hdc in each hdc around to

m—32 hdc.Rnd 5: Change to B, hdc in each hdc around to m.Rnds 6–7: Change to f, hdc in each hdc around to m.Rnd 8: Change to d, hdc in each hdc around to m.Rnd 9: Change to E, 2 hdc in each hdc around to

m—64 hdc.Rnd 10: Hdc in each hdc around to m.Rnd 11: Change to a, hdc in each hdc around to m.Rnd 12: Change to E, hdc in each hdc around to m.Rnd 13: Change to B, hdc in each hdc around to m.Rnd 14: *2 hdc in next st, hdc in each of next 3 (2) sts; rep

from * to last 0 (1) hdc, hdc in last hdc—80 (85) hdc. fasten off.

Join MC with sl st in 12th (13th) st from end of last rnd.

Pam

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Pam

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Work 56 (59) hdc, turn leaving rem sts unworked. Work 11 (12) more rows even. Work 1 row each in C, f, d, B, E, a. fasten off and weave in loose ends.

Chin StrapWith a, ch 51 (53).Row 1: Hdc in 3rd ch from hook and in each ch across,

turn—50 (52) hdc.Row 2: Change to MC, ch 3 (counts as first hdc), hdc in

each hdc across, turn.Row 3 (buttonhole row): Change to B, ch 3, hdc in

next hdc, ch 1, sk next hdc, hdc in each hdc to last 3 hdc, ch 1, sk next hdc, hdc in last hdc, turn.

Row 4: Change to d, ch 3, hdc in each hdc across, turn.

Row 5: Change to f, ch 3, hdc in each hdc across. fasten off.

Sew buttons to hat at each end of 4th (5th) row of MC band. -

KatHY MErriCK, of Pennsylvania, taught herself to crochet after her beloved grandmother refused to deal with Kathy’s extreme left-handedness.

18 (19, 21, 22)" 45.5 (48.5, 53.5, 56) cm

9¾ (10½ 12, 12¾)" 25 (26.5, 30.5, 32) cm

5 (5¼, 6, 6½)" 12.5 (13.5, 15, 16.5) cm

5 (5½, 6, 6¼)" 12.5 (14, 15, 16) cm

Front & Back

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Anna Cardigandesign by Robyn Chachula

three-dimensional FloWer emBellishments on this light cardi will immediately bring springtime to mind and will make your little petunia feel like a big girl in her fancy new top. little does she know those “fancy” flowers are quite easy to make in just a few rows. the bright, pretty color of the body and the pop of the flowers make this cardi easy to dress up or down. What a delightful way to welcome warmer weather and the return of those beautiful blooms.

Joe

Coc

a

Finished Size: 22 (24, 26, 28)" chest circumference to fit 6 (12, 18, 24) months. Cardigan shown measures 24".

yarn: tahki Stacy Charles/filatura di Crosa Zarina (100% extra fine superwash merino; 181 yd [166 m]/1¾ oz [50 g];

): #1776 tomato red (a), 3 (3, 4, 4) balls; #1753 mustard (B), 1 ball.


Notions: Yarn needle; 3 stitch markers (m); 2 small hook and eyes; 6" of ½"-wide grosgrain ribbon to match a; matching sewing thread, handsewing needle.

Gauge: Gauge 4 sh = 4" and 14 rows (7 rr) = 4¼" in v-st patt (vsp).

Stitch GuideShell (sh): (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in indicated st.V Stitch (V-st): (dc, ch 2, dc) in indicated st.Inc: (dc, ch 2, sc, ch 2, dc) in indicated st.V-st patt (vsp) Ch 34.Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook, *sk next 3 ch, sh in next

ch, sk next 3 ch, sc in next ch; rep from * across, turn—4 sh.

Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in first sc, *ch 1, sc in next ch-2 sp, ch 1, v-st in next sc; rep from * to last sh, ch 1, sc in last ch-2 sp, ch 1, 2 dc in last sc, turn.

Row 3: Ch 1, sc in first dc, *sh (see Stitch Guide) in next sc, sc in next ch-2 sp; rep from * across, sc in top of tch, turn.

rep rows 2–3 for patt, ending with a row 2.

20presented by crochetme!anna Cardigan


yoke With a, ch 98 (98, 114, 114).Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook, *sk next 3 ch, sh (see Stitch

Guide) in next ch, sk next 3 ch, sc in next ch; rep from * across, turn—12 (12, 14, 14) sh.

Row 2: Work in vsp for 1 v-st, ch 1, sc in next ch-2 sp, ch 1, inc (see Stitch Guide) in next sc, place marker (pm) in previous sc, cont in vsp for 1 (1, 2, 2) v-sts, inc in next sc, pm, cont in vsp for 3 v-sts, inc in next sc, pm, cont in vsp for 1 (1, 2, 2) v-sts, inc in next sc, pm, cont in vsp to last sh, ch 1, sc in last ch-2 sp, ch 1, 2 dc in last sc, turn.

Row 3: *Work in vsp to m, sc in next ch-2 sp, sh in next sc, sc in ch-2 sp; rep from * across, cont in vsp to end, turn—16 (16, 18, 18) sh.

Row 4: Work in vsp for 1 v-st, ch 1, sc in next ch-2 sp, ch 1, inc in next sc, pm in previous sc, cont in vsp for 3 (3, 4, 4) v-sts, inc in next sc, pm, cont in vsp for 3 v-sts, inc in next sc, pm, cont in vsp for 3 (3, 4, 4) v-sts, inc in next sc, pm, cont in vsp to last sh, ch 1, sc in last ch-2 sp, ch 1, 2 dc in last sc, turn.

Row 5: rep row 3—20 (20, 22, 22) sh.Row 6: Work in vsp for 2 v-sts, ch 1, sc in next ch-2 sp, ch 1, inc

in next sc, pm in previous sc, cont in vsp for 3 (3, 4, 4) v-sts, inc in next sc, pm, cont in vsp for 5 v-sts, inc in next sc, pm, cont in vsp for 3 (3, 4, 4) v-sts, inc in next sc, pm, cont in vsp to last sh, ch 1, sc in last ch-2 sp, ch 1, 2 dc in last sc, turn.

Row 7: rep row 3—24 (24, 26, 26) sh.rep rows 2–3 of vsp one (one, two, two) times. Row 10 (10, 12, 12): Work in vsp for 2 v-sts, ch 1, sc in next

ch-2 sp, ch 1, inc in next sc, pm in previous sc, cont in vsp for 5 (5, 6, 6) v-sts, inc in next sc, pm, cont in vsp for 5 v-sts, inc in next sc, pm, cont in vsp for 5 (5, 6, 6) v-sts, inc in next sc, pm, cont in vsp to last sh, ch 1, sc in last ch-2 sp, ch 1, 2 dc in last sc, turn.

rep row 3—28 (28, 30, 30) sh.Row 12 (12, 14, 14): Work in vsp for 3 v-sts, ch 1, sc in next


rep row 3—32 (32, 34, 34) sh.Row 14 (14, 16, 16): Work in vsp for 3 v-sts, ch 1, sc in next


Joe

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oca



rep row 3—36 (36, 38, 38) sh.Sizes 26 (28)" only:Row 18: Work in vsp for 4 v-sts, ch 1, sc in next ch-2 sp,

ch 1, inc in next sc, pm in previous sc, cont in vsp for 8 v-sts, inc in next sc, pm, cont in vsp for 9 v-sts, inc in next sc, pm, cont in vsp for 8 v-sts, inc in next sc, pm, cont in vsp to last sh, ch 1, sc in last ch-2 sp, ch 1, 2 dc in last sc, turn.

rep row 3—42 (42) sh or stitch repeats.All sizes: rep rows 2–3 of vsp.

Joining for Body:See stitch diagram for assistance.Row 1: Work in vsp for 4 (4, 5, 5) v-sts, ch 1, sc in next

ch-2 sp, ch 1, 2 dc in next sc, ch 7 (15, 7, 15) for underarm, sk next 8 (8, 9, 9) sh, 2 dc in next sc, cont in vsp to last 14 (14, 16, 16) sh, 2 dc in next sc, ch 7 (15, 7, 15) for underarm, sk next 8 (8, 9, 9) sh, 2 dc in next sc, cont vsp to end, turn.

Row 2: *Work in vsp to underarm ch, [sk next 3 ch, sh in next ch, sk next 3 ch, sc in next ch] 1 (2, 1, 2) times; rep from * one time, cont in vsp to end, turn—22 (24, 26, 28) sh.

rep rows 2–3 of vsp 11 (11, 13, 13) times. rep row 2, turn.

Edging:Rnd 1: Ch 1, sc in next 2 dc, *sc in next ch-1 sp, sc in next

sc, sc in next ch-1 sp, 3 sc in next ch-2 sp; rep from * to 2nd to last dc, sc in 2nd to last dc, 3 sc in last dc, turn work 90 degrees, sc evenly up ends of rows to neck, 3 sc in outside corner of neck, turn work 90 degrees, sc evenly across neck, 3 sc in outside corner of neck, sc evenly down ends of rows, 2 sc in first dc, sl st in first sc. fasten off and weave in loose ends.

FinishingSleeve edging:Rnd 1: Join a at rS edge of sleeve, cont in rnd

1 of edging around, working 1 sc in each ch across underarm ch, sl st in first sc to join. fasten off.

Pin to schematic size. Spritz with water and allow to dry. Cut grosgrain ribbon in half. fold each end of each ribbon down making each ribbon measure 2". With sewing thread and needle, whipstitch (see Glossary) one half to WS of each front edge just

below neck edge. on right side edge of right side ribbon, sew one hook to top of ribbon and other to bottom of ribbon. Sew eyes to edge of left side ribbon, opposite hooks.

Flower: (make 8)With B, ch 21 (21, 31, 31).Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook, *ch 4, sk next 2 ch, sc

in next ch; rep from * 3 (3, 5, 5) times, **ch 3, sk next ch, sc in next ch; rep from ** to end, turn—8 (8, 12, 12) ch-sps.

Row 2: Ch 1, [sc, ch 2, 4 hdc, ch 2, sc] (small petal) in each ch-3 sp and [sc, ch 3, 6 dc, ch 3, sc] (large petal) in each ch-4 sp across, turn.

Row 3: *Sl st in next sc, ch 6, sc bet 3rd and 4th dc, ch 3, sl st in previous sc, ch 6, sl st in next sc; rep from * 2 (2, 4, 4) times (over all large petals), **sl st in next sc, ch 4, sc bet 2nd and 3rd hdc, ch 3, sl st in previous sc, ch 4, sl st in next sc; rep from ** 4 (4, 6, 6) times (over all small petals). fasten off leaving long tail for sewing.

twist flower into rose shape by wrapping large petals around smaller petals, secure in the center with yarn needle and yarn tail by sewing from the back to the front and returning to the back multiple times. Sew flowers evenly spaced around collar approx ½" below edge. -

roBiN CHaCHUla author of Blueprint Crochet (interweave, 2008) and her soon-to-be-released book Baby Blueprint Crochet (interweave, 2010).

Yoke

Body

A

CB

12 (12, 14, 14)"12,12,14,14 SR

5½ (5½, 6½, 6½)"

9,9,11,11

RR

22 (24, 26, 28)"22,24,26,28

Stitch Repeats (SR)

7¼ (7

¼, 8

½, 8

½)"

12,1

2,14

,14

Row

Rep

eats

(RR

)

9 (10

, 10,

11)"

9,10,1

0,11 S

R



One

Row

R

epea

t1

3

5

7

2

4

6

8

One Stitch Pattern Repeat

V-st Stitch Pattern

910

1

3

5

7

2

4

6

A. Yoke Increase

21

B. Body Joining

5, 6 SR

21

5, 6 SR

Medium/ X-Large Joining

Small/ Large Joining

C. Edging

1

4, 4, 6, 6 Petals 4, 4, 6, 6 Petals

D. Flower

slip stitch

double crochet

single crochet

half double crochet

double treble

3dc-cl

chain

treble crochet

2dc-cl sc in middle bar

sc spike

dc2tog

4dc-cl hdc2tog

sc2tog

3hdc-cl TSS

TPS

TSS dec

FPdc

BPdc

hdc-flp

hdc-blp

dc in middle bar

extended single crochet

slip stitch

double crochet

single crochet

half double crochet

double treble

3dc-cl

chain

treble crochet


sc spike

dc2tog

4dc-cl hdc2tog

sc2tog

3hdc-cl TSS

TPS

TSS dec

FPdc

BPdc

hdc-flp

hdc-blp

dc in middle bar



Mari Nursing Wrap design by Robin Chachula

For some moms, privacy is important when nursing. this simple wrap shields the baby behind a curtain of linked stitches while letting mom peek in on baby at the granny square border. the wrap can easily be hooked over the neck with the attached strap for feeding or draped over a stroller for sleeping. the light cotton/linen blend yarn used here becomes softer each time it is laundered, making this a pleasant and convenient addition to a nursing mama’s daily routine.

Finished Size: 33¾" wide and 26¼" long.

yarn: verde Collection allegoro (70% organic cotton, 30% linen; 152 yd [139 m]/1¾ oz [50 g]; ): #5634 best berry (a), 4 balls; #5619 lupine pink (B), 3 balls; #5650 cerignola (C), 1 ball. Yarn distributed by Classic Elite Yarns.


Notions: Yarn needle; 1⅛" button.

Gauge: 9 sts and 10 rows [6 Stitch repeats (Sr) by 5 row repeats (rr)] = 4"; marigold motif = 3¾" square.


Stitch Guide:Linked Treble Crochet (L-tr)Set-up st: insert hook in 2nd ch from hook, yo and

pull up lp, insert hook in 3rd ch from hook, yo and pull up lp, insert hook in 5th ch from hook (or next st), yo and pull up lp (4 lps on hook), yo and draw through 2 lps on hook, yo and draw through next 2 lps, yo and draw through last 2 lps—first l-tr made. Next st: insert hook in upper horizontal bar of previous st, yo and pull up lp, insert hook in lower

24presented by crochetme!Mari nursing Wrap


horizontal bar, yo and pull up lp, insert hook in next ch (or st), yo and pull up lp, (4 lps on hook), yo and draw through 2 lps on hook, yo and draw through next 2 lps, yo and draw through last 2 lps.

Dc2tog: [Yo, insert hook in next st, yo and pull up lp, yo, draw through 2 lps on hook] 2 times, yo and draw through rem 3 lps on hook.

2DC-CL: [Yo, insert hook in st, yo and pull up lp, yo and draw through 2 lps on hook] 2 times, yo and draw through rem 3 lps on hook.

Wrap CenterWith a, ch 119.Row 1: (rS) l-tr (see Stitch Guide) in 5th ch from hook

(4 skipped ch counts as l-tr), l-tr in each ch across, turn—115 l-tr.

Row 2: Ch 1, sc-flo in each l-tr across, turn.Row 3: Ch 4, l-tr in each sc across, turn. rep rows 2–3 eighteen times. rep row 2.

EdgingChange to C.Rnd 1: Ch 1, 3 sc in first sc, sc in each sc to last sc, 3

sc in last sc, turn work 90 degrees (now beg working in row-ends), work 77 sc along edge, turn work 90 degrees, work 3 sc in first foundation ch, sc in each ch to last ch, work 3 sc in last ch, turn work 90 degrees, work 77 sc along edge, sl st in first sc to join, do not turn—392 sc.

Rnd 2: Ch 5, 2dc-cl (see Stitch Guide) in 3rd ch from hook, sk next sc, hdc in next sc, *ch 3, 2dc-cl in 3rd ch from hook, sk next 2 sc, hdc in next sc *; rep from * to * 37 times, ch 3, 2dc-cl in 3rd ch from hook, sk next sc, hdc in next sc, rep from * to * 26 times, ch 3, 2dc-cl in 3rd ch from hook, sk next sc, hdc in next sc, rep from * to * 38 times, ch 3, 2dc-cl in 3rd ch from hook, sk next sc, hdc in next sc, rep from * to * 25 times, ch 3, 2dc-cl in 3rd ch from hook, sl st in 2nd ch of tch to join, do not turn—132 2dc-cl.

Rnd 3: Ch 9 (counts as hdc and ch-7 sp), hdc in next hdc, *[ch 2, hdc in next hdc] to corner, ch 7, hdc in next hdc at corner; rep from * 2 times, [ch 2, hdc in next hdc] to beg, omitting last hdc, sl st in 2nd ch of tch to join, do not turn.

Rnd 4: Ch 1, sc in same ch of tch, *9 sc in next ch-7 sp, sc in next hdc, [2 sc in next ch-2 sp, sc in next hdc] to



next corner; rep from * around, omitting last hdc, sl st in first sc to join. fasten off.

First marigold motifWith B, ch 7, sl st in first ch to form ring.Rnd 1: (rS) Ch 1, sc 12 times in ring, sl st in first sc to join,

do not turn—12 sc.Rnd 2: Ch 2, dc in next sc, ch 3, *dc2tog over same sc

and next sc, ch 3; rep from * 9 times, dc2tog over same sc and next sc, ch 1, hdc in top of first dc, do not turn—11 dc2tog.

Rnd 3: Ch 5 (counts as hdc), 2dc-cl in 3rd ch from hook, *hdc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3, 2dc-cl in 3rd ch from hook; rep from * around, sl st in 2nd ch of tch, do not turn—12 2dc-cl.

Rnd 4: Ch 6 (counts as hdc and ch-4 sp), *hdc in next hdc, ch 4; rep from * around, sl st in 2nd ch of tch, do not turn—12 hdc.

Rnd 5: Sl st in ch-4 sp, ch 3 (counts as dc), (4 dc, ch 5, 5 dc) in same ch-4 sp, *sc in next ch-4 sp, ch 5, sc in next ch-4 sp, (5 dc, ch 5, 5 dc) in next ch-4 sp; rep from * 2 times, sc in next ch-4 sp, ch 5, sc in next ch-4 sp, sl st in top of tch. fasten off.

Second and successive motifs (make 26)Join all adjoining ch-5 sp corners and sides, as well as to edge of body as directed in instruction and diagram.Rnd 5: Sl st in first ch-4 sp, ch 3 (counts as dc), 4 dc in

same ch-4 sp, ch 2, sl st in ch-5 sp of adjoining motif (aM), ch 2, 5 dc in same ch-4 sp of working motif (WM), sc in next ch-4 sp, ch 2, sl st in ch-5 sp of aM, ch 2, sc in next ch-4 sp of WM, 5 dc in next ch-4 sp, ch 2, sl st in next ch-5 sp of aM, sl st in sc shown on diagram, ch 2, 5 dc in same ch-4 sp of WM, sc in next ch-4 sp, ch 2, sl st in next sc shown on diagram (9 sc from corner or 9 sc from last sl st on side), ch 2, sc in next ch-4 sp, 5 dc in next ch-4 sp, ch 2, sl st to next sc shown on diagram (9 sc from last sl st), ch 2, 5 dc in same ch-4 sp, *sc in next ch-4 sp, ch 5, sc in next ch-4 sp *, (sc, ch 5, sc) in next ch-4 sp, rep from * to *, sl st in top of tch. fasten off.

Last motifJoin to previous motif, first motif, and body. Rnd 5: Sl st in first ch-4 sp, ch 3 (counts as dc), 4 dc in

same ch-4 sp, ch 2, sl st in ch-5 sp of adjoining motif (aM), ch 2, 5 dc in same ch-4 sp of working motif (WM), sc in next ch-4 sp, ch 2, sl st in ch-5 sp of aM, ch 2, sc in next ch-4 sp of WM, 5 dc in next ch-4 sp, ch 2, sl st in next ch-5 sp of aM, sl st in sc shown on diagram, ch

2, 5 dc in same ch-4 sp, sc in next ch-4 sp, ch 2, sl st in next sc shown on diagram (9 sc from corner or 9 sc from last sl st on side), ch 2, sc in next ch-4 sp, 5 dc in next ch-4 sp, ch 2, sl st in next sc shown on diagram (9 sc from last sl st), ch 2, 5 dc in same ch-4 sp, sc in next ch-4 sp, ch 2, sl st in first motif's ch-5 sp, ch 2, sc in next ch-4 sp, 5 dc in next ch-4 sp, ch 2, sl st in first motif’s next ch-5 sp, ch 2, 5 dc in same ch-4 sp, sc in next ch-4 sp, ch 5, sc in next ch-4 sp, sl st in top of tch. fasten off.

Finishing Pin wrap to schematic size. Spray with water and allow to dry. Note: to make wrap even softer, machine wash multiple times, according to yarn package directions, then pin to schematic size to dry. remember to test this on swatch first, before trying on the completed wrap.

Long strap With a, ch 87.Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across,

turn—86 sc.Row 2: Ch 1, sc across, turn.rep row 2.Row 4: Ch 1, *sc in next 4 sc, ch 4, sk next 4 sc; rep from *

2 times, sc in each rem sc to end, turn—3 buttonholes made.

Row 5: Ch 1, sc across, turn.rep row 2 two times. fasten off.

Short strap With C, ch 11.Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across,

turn—10 sc.Row 2: Ch 1, sc across, turn.rep row 2 five times.

Join strap and buttonPin non-buttonhole end of long strap to long side of wrap, to beg of 4th motif ,12" from right-hand edge. With yarn needle and a, whipstitch (see Glossary) long strap to motif. Pin short strap to end of 4th motif 12" from left-hand edge on same long side of wrap. With yarn needle and C, whipstitch short strap to motif. Sew button to end of short C strap on rS. -

roBiN CHaCHUla author of Blueprint Crochet (interweave, 2008) and her soon-to-be-released book Baby Blueprint Crochet (interweave, 2010).



2

1

7

3

4

5

B. Marigold Motif

2

1

7

3

4

5

Joining Motifs

7

2

1

7

3

4

5

C. Joining Motifs

A. Edging

138 SR 2 3 4

26 S

R

1 SR

Center

26¼

" (7

Mot

ifs)

33¾ (9 Motifs)

24¼" (38 SR)

16¾

" (26

SR

)



slip stitch

double crochet

single crochet

half double crochet

double treble

3dc-cl

chain

treble crochet


sc spike

dc2tog

4dc-cl hdc2tog

sc2tog

3hdc-cl TSS

TPS

TSS dec

FPdc

BPdc

hdc-flp

hdc-blp

dc in middle bar


slip stitch

double crochet

single crochet

half double crochet

double treble

3dc-cl

chain

treble crochet


sc spike

dc2tog

4dc-cl hdc2tog

sc2tog

3hdc-cl TSS

TPS

TSS dec

FPdc

BPdc

hdc-flp

hdc-blp

dc in middle bar


C. Joining Motifs

28Stitch glossary presented by crochetme!


Glossary beg begin(s); beginning bet between blo back loop only CC contrasting color ch(s) chain cm centimeter(s) cont continue(s); continuing dc double crochet dec(s)(’d) decrease(s); decreasing; decreased est established fdc foundation double crochet flo front loop only foll follows; following fsc foundation single crochet g gram(s) hdc half double crochet inc(s)(’d) increase(s); increasing; increased k knit lp(s) loop(s) MC main color m marker mm millimeter(s) patt(s) pattern(s) pm place marker p purl rem remain(s); remaining rep repeat; repeating rev sc reverse single crochet rnd(s) round(s) rS right side sc single crochet sk skip sl slip sl st slip(ped) stitch sp(s) space(es) st(s) stitch(es) tch turning chain tog together tr treble crochet WS wrong side yd yard yo yarn over hook * repeat starting point * * repeat all instructions between asterisks ( ) alternate measurements and/or instructions [ ] work bracketed instructions a specified

number of times

AbbreviationsCrochet Gaugeto check gauge, chain 30 to 40 stitches using recommended hook size. Work in pattern stitch until piece measures at least 4" (10 cm) from foundation chain. lay swatch on flat surface. Place a ruler over swatch and count number of stitches across and number of rows down (including fractions of stitches and rows) in 4" (10 cm). repeat two or three times on different areas of swatch to confirm measurements. if you have more stitches and rows than called for in instructions, use a larger hook; if you have fewer, use a smaller hook. repeat until gauge is correct.

Slip Stitch Crochet (sl st)insert hook into stitch, yarn over hook and draw loop through stitch and loop on hook.

Crochet Chain (ch) Make a slipknot on hook. Yarn over hook and draw it through loop of slipknot. repeat, drawing yarn through the last loop formed.

Single Crochet (sc)insert hook into a stitch, yarn over hook and draw a loop through stitch, yarn over hook (figure 1) and draw it through both loops on hook (figure 2).

Figure 1 Figure 2

Illus

trat

ions

by

Gayl

e Fo

rd



Glossarydouble Crochet (dc)*Yarn over, insert hook into a stitch, yarn over and pull a loop through stitch (three loops on hook; figure 1), yarn over and draw it through two loops (figure 2), yarn over and draw it through the remaining two loops (figure 3). repeat from *. Figure 2

Figure 3Figure 1

treble Crochet (tr)*Wrap yarn around hook two times, insert hook into a stitch, yarn over and pull a loop through (four loops on hook; figure 1), yarn over and draw it through two loops (figure 2), yarn over and draw it through the next two loops, yarn over and draw it through the remaining two loops (figure 3). repeat from *.

Figure 1

Figure 2

Figure 3

double Crochet two together (dc2tog)[Yarn over, insert hook in next stitch, yarn over and pull up loop, yarn over, draw through 2 loops] 2 times, yarn over, draw through all loops on hook—1 stitch decreased.

Half double Crochet two together (hdc2tog)[Yarn over, insert hook in next stitch, yarn over and pull up loop] 2 times, yarn over and draw through all loops on hook—1 stitch decreased.

Single Crochet decreasingdraw a loop through each of the next two stitches, yarn over (figure 1). draw the yarn through all three loops on the hook. one stitch has been made from the two stitches (figure 2).

Figure 1 Figure 2



Glossary

Figure 1 Figure 2

Slip-KnotStarting about four to six inches (10 to 15 cm) from the end of the yarn, make a loop (figure 1), insert the hook through the loop (figure 2), and gently pull the end to tighten the loop on the hook (figure 3). don’t pull the end too tightly or you won’t be able to work into this stitch. Figure 3

Changing ColorsCut the end of the color you are discontinuing, leaving a 6" (15 cm) tail. Begin working the new color in the next stitch, holding both the cut end and the new end taut in your opposite hand and laying both ends over the top of the stitches to be worked. Continue working the pattern as established for several stitches; the ends will lie on top of the work and you will crochet over them with the new yarn as you work into each stitch. once the new yarn is secure, release the ends, but work a few more stitches over them. trim ends and continue working the new yarn.

Figure 3

Pom-PomCut two circles of cardboard, each 1⁄2” (1.3 cm) larger than desired finished pom-pom width. Cut a small circle out of the center and a small edge out of the side of each circle (figure 1). tie a strand of yarn between the circles, hold circles together and wrap with yarn—the more wraps, the thicker the pom-pom. Cut between the circles and knot the tie strand tightly (figure 2). Place pom-pom between two smaller cardboard circles held together with a needle and trim the edges (figure 3). this technique comes from Nicky Epstein’s Knitted Embellishments, interweave Press, 1999.

Figure 1 Figure 2

WhipstitchWith right side of work facing and working one stitch in from the edge, bring threaded needle out from back to front along edge of knitted piece.

Weaving in EndsFastening Off: at the end of the last row, cut the yarn, leaving a 4" (10 cm) tail for weaving in. insert the tail through the last stitch and pull to tighten and secure.

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