Croatian Maritime Heritage - Adriatic Light Houses

104 CROATIA AIRLINES

VITEZOVI PUČINSKIH OBZORA

ADRIATIC LIGHT HOSUSES, KNIGHTS OF THE HORIZONS IN THE OFFING

JADRANSKI

■ MARITIMNA BAŠTINA MARITIME HERITAGE

CROATIA AIRLINES 105

VITEZOVI PUČINSKIH OBZORA

ADRIATIC LIGHT HOSUSES, KNIGHTS OF THE HORIZONS IN THE OFFING

JADRANSKI

Piše/By Goran StojanoviÊ

Fotografije/Photos Andrija CarliHrvatska je zemlja mora i otoka, nositeljica bogate prirodne i kulturne baπtine. Ovaj tekst posveÊen je jadranskim svjetionicima, istaknutom segmentu nacionalne maritimne baπtine i njihovu svjetlu koje se, kao i sva ostala, bez oËekivanog uzvrata, dobrostivo daruju nevidljivome i nepoznatome.

Croatia - a land of sea and islands, boasts a rich natural and cultural heritage. This text is dedicated to a prominent segment of Croatian maritime culture: Adriatic light houses and their lights which like all others graciously give themselves to the unseen and unknown, never expecting anything in return.

vjetlo je esencija vidljivosti stvore-noga i stvaranja. Ono je nastajanje, nada, buenje, putokaz... Joπ kao

dijete katkad sam bio zagledan u more, u beskrajnu puËinu koja zavrπava negdje daleko, u nedohvatu vlastita vida. U tim sam, za mene mistiËnim trenucima, tijekom zore ili zarumje-njeloga sutona, promiπljao o svijetu morskih dubina. U noÊima sam, na istim tim obalama, traæio svjetlo, znak ili zvijezdu pokaznicu koja je moj pogled usmjeravala na nebeski svod - na plavetni beskraj kreacije i stvaranja.Joπ od davnina Ëovjek je spoznao snagu svje-tlosti. Ona mu je oduvijek osvjetljavala tamu, darivajuÊi ga vidljivoπÊu njegova osobnog prostora, smjera i kretanja. O svjetlu se moæe mnogo zboriti jer svojom je sluæbom i misijom viπestruko prisutno - kao svjetlo zvjezdanih prostranstava, svjetlo munje nad otvorenim nebom, svjetlo luke na obzoru, svjetlo ljubavi i nade, duπe i mudrosti, svjetlo Zemlje, konti-nenata i gradova, vidljivih i iz svemirskih da-ljina, svjetlo krπÊanskih voπtanica i semitskih menora, svjetlo mjeseËine i drevnoga Sunca, svjetlo istoka, svjetlo sjeÊanja i nadahnuÊa… Sva ta svjetla, bez posustajanja, svijetle iz jednog izvora, iz svemirske iskre istinskih vrijednosti, koja svojom prisutnoπÊu, kao i

S najmanji plamen, pobjeuju bespuÊa tmine. Plovimo li noÊu i ne diæemo li pogled, nego ga dræimo u ravnini puËinskog obzorja, uvijek nanovo traæimo svjetlo, trag i znak raspuknuÊa tame koja nestaje. Svjetionici su vitezna zdanja, baπtinici tog svjetla za kojim Ëezne pogled pomorca i promatraËa koji nadohvat æeli vidjeti uporiπte, sigurno usmjerenje, putokaz nepo-miËnog dobronamjernika. Ni jedan svjetionik, kao kakva laterna magica, ne moæe opstati bez svoga noÊnog bdijenja, kao πto ni jedan od istinskih junaka, koji su se borili i izborili sa silama mraka, nije to Ëinio a da se nije ËvrπÊe zagrlio sa snagom osobne svjetlosti.Iz povijesnih je izvora poznato da je preteËa danaπnjim svjetionicima bio svjetionik antiËke Aleksandrije, sagraen na otoku Farosu oko 300. godine pr. Kr. po projektima grËkog arhitekta Sostrata. Sastavljena iz tri razine ukupne visine od oko 117 metara, ta je monu-mentalna graevina viπe od jednog tisuÊljeÊa osvjetljavala luku, koristeÊi se noÊnom vatrom podræavanom drvom i smolom, a konkavnim je zrcalom danju pokazivala svoj poloæaj reflektirajuÊi SunËevo svjetlo kojim se, prema legendi, koristilo i za spaljivanje neprijateljskih brodova. Kad su Arapi osvojili Egipat, divili su se Aleksandriji i svjetioniku koji je bio spominjan












Zahvali plamenu za svjetlost, ali ne zaboravi onoga

tko dræi svjetiljku i tko stoji u sjeni ne sustajuÊi u strpljenju.Rabindranath Tagore

Thank the flame for its light, but do not forget the lamp holder standing in the shade with

constancy of patience. Rabindranath Tagore

i u njihovim spisima. Daleke 1375. jaki je potres razorio svjetionik i tada je nestalo jedno od sedam svjetskih Ëuda. Po otoku Farosu nastala je i imenica za svjetionik, a farologijom nazvana je i znanost o svjetioniËarstvu.Iz Jadranskog mora kojim se Sredozemlje naj-dublje uvuklo u kopno starog kontinenta, uzdiæe se impresivan hrvatski arhipelag s vrhovima planina nekadaπnjeg kopna, koje je davno po-vezivalo padine visokih Dinarida s ravniËarskim Apeninima u kopneni kontinuum. Brodarenje Jadranom stoga ne razumijeva napasti ocean-ske puËine s viπemetarskim valovima, ali zbog velike razvedenosti toga morskog bazena s obiljem otoËja, pojavljuju se druge opasnosti pouzdane navigacije. Zato se joπ od davnih vremena nastojalo obiljeæiti mjesta pouzdanih prolaza kako bi se otklonile prijetnje mnogih hridi i podvodnih grebena. Do vremena kad su

tegoba na nenastanjenim puËinskim otocima, hridima i grebenima.Kao javna dobra, svjetionici su uglavnom osa-mljeni u svom okruæju, podizani na uoËljivim i Ëesto teπko dostupnim mjestima otoËnih i kopnenih obala, rtova, uzvisina i udaljenih πkoja u neposrednom dodiru s elementima prirode − tvrdim kamenjarom, dubokim morem, πkrtim raslinjem i snaænim vjetrovima, a svojim daleko-metnim zrakama svjetlosti i danas nude Ëvrste koordinate za odreivanje poloæaja pri plovidbi.Svjetionike, baπ kao i njihove svjetioniËare, veoma rijetko posjeÊuju, a rijetko ih se i vidi. Drugima su uvijek bili i ostali na usluzi, povuËeni u svoje svjetove sluæenja bez oËekivanja neke posebne nagrade, kao da svjetlost davanja i nije najveÊa nagrada davatelja. »uvajuÊi svoju samoÊu, ta kamena zdanja, minuciozno i odgovorno graena finim klesancima u od-mjerenim kvadrima, saËuvala su duh mjesta na kojima su podignuta. Svaki od svjetionika svijet je za sebe, Ëastan u svojoj nepristupaËnosti, neobiËan u afirmaciji ljudske skromnosti, osobit u svojoj tajnovitosti.Svim hrvatskim svjetionicima upravlja trgovaËko druπtvo Plovput iz Splita, koje odræava i upravlja plovnim putovima hrvatskih morskih voda i teri-torijalnog mora. To je druπtvo, u ime Republike Hrvatske, ujedno i Ëlan Meunarodne udruge svjetioniËarskih sluæbi International Association of Lighthouse Authorities. Meu mnogobrojnim jadranskim svjetionicima istiËe se Savudrija kao najstariji, najzapadniji i najsjeverniji jadranski svjetionik u funkciji, graen daleke 1818. godine. Od njega se, pre-ma krajnjem jugu hrvatskog Jadrana, spuπta biserni niz svjetionika. Zadnji je u nizu svjetionik Grebeni, graen 1872. godine, koji se nalazi na milju od Dubrovnika. Naziv je dobio po grebenima na kojima su, do njegove izgradnje, nestali u moru mnogi ribarski brodovi.Ipak, postoji svjetionik osobit po poloæaju i veliËini. RijeË je o Palagruπkom svjetioniku sagraenome 1875. godine, koji se smjestio na najudaljenijem hrvatskom otoku, na mei talijanske i hrvatske obale. Veoma lijep, taj ka-meni objekt poloæen je na vrhu od 110 metara uskoga klisurastoga grebena otoka Palagruæe Vele, gdje vizurom Ëarobno dominira krajolikom najveÊega od nekoliko otoka i otoËiÊa usred Jadranskog mora. Arheoloπki nalazi dokazuju da je Palagruæa bila naseljena joπ prije 9000 godina, a u srednjem vijeku tu je bio samostan Ëije su ruπevine na srednjem sedlu otoka i sada vidljive. Povremeni su stanovnici komiπki ribari, koji na tom podruËju ribare joπ od 14. stoljeÊa, jer okolno je more jedno od najbogatijih ribo-lovnih podruËja. Crkveni izvori biljeæe kako je Palagruæu 1177. godine pohodio i papa Aleksandar III. putujuÊi

svjetionici zabljesnuli svojim svjetlima, plovidbe noÊu bile su velika opasnost. U antici, kaæe dr.sc. Joπko BoæaniÊ u eseju o svjetionicima, putovalo se danju, i to u ljetnom razdoblju godi-ne. Na more se nije smjelo prije nego list smokve naraste toliko da moæe pokriti ljudski dlan. Ipak, mnogi brodolomi svjedoËe o nepoznavanju brojnih opasnosti od pomorskih grebena πto strπe prema povrπini iz dubina mora.Potkraj 18. stoljeÊa, toËnije 1797. godine, padom Venecije, Austro-Ugarska Monarhija dolazi na Jadran, a hrvatska obala s otocima postaje sastavni dio Carstva, koje tada uvodi red u dræavnu administraciju, u kopnene i morske komunikacije, a zakonima ureuje funkcioniranje pomorskog prometa i potrebne pomorske signalizacije. Tijekom 19. i u poËetku 20. stoljeÊa Carstvo gradi i mreæu svjetlosnih orijentira i potrebne svjetionike, kojima naπ akvatorij raspolaæe i danas. Tada se, prvi put, osigurava plovidba i istoËnom stranom Jadra-na, kako u noÊnim, tako i u nevremenskim uvjetima. Velika obitelj od Ëetrdeset osam jadranskih svjetionika, od kojih trideset tri pripadaju i kul-turnim dobrima, dobronamjernicima nudi veliki raspon vizura i osebujnih panorama. U takvoj kontemplaciji Jadrana kao iskona tradicijskih baπtina i sjeÊanja predaka, nemoguÊe je zaobiÊi te hrabre svjetlosne vizure kao dio jadranskog univerzuma, uporiπta u svladavanju prirodnih


sa svojom pomorskom flotom u hrvatske krajeve, jer putovanja duæ talijanske obale, zbog opasnosti od bure, bila su opasna, osobito zimi. Tom prilikom, 9. oæujka, papi je i posluæena veËera na maloj visoravni Palagruæe Male, koja se otad naziva Papina njiva. Nakon boravka na Palagruæi papa je odjedrio prema Visu, Zadru i Veneciji, kako bi, ploveÊi duæ istarske obale, stigao u Mletke.Mnoge priËe i mitovi u vezi su sa svjetionici-ma. Oduvijek su ti objekti izdvojeni od mjesta i zajednica vezivali uza se neku tajanstvenost, priËe zabranjenih ljubavnih veza s tuænim zavrπetkom, osamljenost, hrabrost, ostav-ljenost… Tako je uz juænojadranski svjetionik Sveti Andrija, sagraen 1873. godine, vezana jedna od najtuænijih ljubavnih i svjetioniËarskih priËa. U knjizi Kamena svjetla autor Neven ©eriÊ, izmeu mnogih priËa i legendi o ja-dranskim svjetionicima, o mjestima na kojima su sagraeni i o njihovom podmorju iznosi i sljedeÊu legendu: Koncem devetnaestog stoljeÊa zaljubio se mladi ribar s otoka Lopuda u prelijepu kÊer svjetioniËara sa Svetog Andrije. No njezini ro-ditelji smatrali su da siromaπni mladiÊ nije pravi izbor za njihovu kÊer. Ljubav dvoje mladih bila je jaËa, te je hrabri mladiÊ Ëesto noÊu prepli-vavao dvije milje udaljenosti do otoËiÊa Sveti Andrija, kako bi provodio noÊi s odabranicom svog srca. Nakon nekog vremena primijetili su otac i braÊa πto se deπava i smislili zao plan. Kada su sljedeÊe noÊi vidjeli da se djevojka iskrala iz svjetionika, ugasili su svjetlo, te se ukrcali u barku u kojoj su zapalili petrolejku. Lagano veslajuÊi prema puËini odvukli su ne-sretnog mladiÊa za svjetlom. MladiÊ je plivao do zore, iznemogao klonuo i nestao u modrim dubinama. Saznavπi nakon nekog vremena πto se dogodilo izabraniku njezina srca, nesretna se djevojka od æalosti bacila niz juæne litice otoka. Ni njeno tijelo nikada nije pronaeno. Neki ronioci s ovog podruËja priËaju kako se u dubinama pod juænim liticama otoka Sveti Andrija mogu primijetiti dvije kirnje koje se, netipiËno za odrasle primjerke, stalno dræe zajedno i zamiËu u dubinu na samu pojavu Ëovjeka. Duboko razoËarane u ljudsku vrstu, moæda su duπe dvoje ljubavnika …u modrim dubinama s juæne strane Svetog Andrije.SvjetioniËari su osobe vezane uza svjetionik. Nekad je svaki svjetionik imao svoje svjetioniËa-re, a danas borave samo na nekima od njih. Suvremene tehnologije uËinile su svoje, tako da su danas svi jadranski svjetionici automati-zirani i nadzirani sustavom daljinskog nadzora. Ali, zbog znaËenja svjetionika za sigurnost plovidbe te zaπtite svjetioniËarskih zgrada, na sedamnaest jadranskih svjetionika joπ se i danas nalazi mala svjetioniËarska posada.

Svjetionici pruæaju dodir s univerzumom. Druæiti se sa svjetioniËarima, tim Ëuvarima svjetla kame-nih tornjeva okrenutih moru, osobit je dogaaj. U njima se oËituje mudrost komunikacije sa svijetom i sve-mirom na dublji, snaæniji i jedno-stavan naËin, mnogo bogatiji nego πto to nudi æivot u nekome velikom gradu. Æivjeti na otoku na kojemu su jedini stanovnici galebovi, leptiri, guπteri i svjetioniËari znaËi biti gluh na civilizacij-sku buku i tekovine brzih promjena. Tu se daruje moguÊnost povezivanja s prirodom, vjetrom, morem, samim sobom. Kakvo bogatstvo! Svjetionici su najljepπi ljetnikovci na Jadranu, koji pruæaju jedinstven osjeÊaj istinske ljepote. Sagraeni u bijelom kamenu, u krajolicima osobitih kolorita, svjetioniËarske zgrade danas udomljavaju i turiste koji se vole odmaknuti od turistiËkih srediπta, koji vole mir i bisernu ËistoÊu nebeskih prostranstava. Jadranski svjetionici estetskih dimenzija svaki dan iskazuju i etiËku pouku: ne iznevjeriti funk-ciju svog postojanja, osvjetljavati prostore oko sebe, pruæati sigurnost, pomagati daljinama iz srediπta vlastite osi. Oni su nepokoreni vitezovi koji egzistiraju u sjeni i skromnosti, suzdræani u pokazivanju, na crti svojih valova i dalekih obzorja. U svakome od njih boravi dobri duh suosjeÊanja, razumijevanja, pomaganja. I zato je u njima, i uz grmljavinu neba, huku vjetra i udara morskih valova, moguÊe Ëuti glas ljubavi, sa strahopoπtovanjem pojaËanim do maksimuma. n

ight is the essence of visibility for everything that exists or is being cre-ated. It is gestation, hope, awakening,

a signpost... As a child, I gazed across the seemingly endless sea to the offing where the sea and the sky were welded together almost beyond the reach of my gaze. During those mystical moments at sunrise or at glowing sunset, I reflected on the deep underwater world. At night, on those same shores, I would look for light, for a sign or a star to direct my gaze towards the celestial dome ∑ towards the blue endlessness of creation and conception.People first started to appreciate the power of light a long time ago. It was a beacon for their darkness; it provided visibility for their own space, for their own direction and move-ment. A lot can be said about light because its purpose and mission are multifold ∑ it comes in different shapes and forms: as the light of the starry expanse; the flash of lightning across the open sky; the lights of a harbour on the horizon; the light of love and hope, of the soul and wisdom; the light of the Earth, of its continents and cities, visible from cosmic distances; the light of Christian tee lights and Semitic menorahs; the moonlight and the light

of the ancient Sun; the light coming from the east, the light of remembrance and inspiration. All these lights shine with constancy from one source, from the cosmic spark of true values which conquer the wasteland of darkness with only the presence of the smallest flame.While sailing at night, if we do not look up, but rather cast our gaze level with the horizon, we keep on looking for light, for a sign, for a glimpse of that place where darkness breaks up and starts disappearing. Lighthouses are knight-like edifices, effigies of light that sailors and observers long to see when they look for a stronghold within their reach, for a safe di-rection, for this immobile benevolent signpost. A lighthouse is like a laterna magica: none of them can survive if they stop their night vigil, just like no true hero would have prevailed in the struggle against the powers of the dark-ness without having held firmer to the power of their own personal light.Historical sources tell us that the predeces-sor of the modern-day lighthouse was the lighthouse of ancient Alexandria. It was built on the Island of Pharos, some 300 years B.C. according to the designs of the Greek architect Sostrat. The 117 metre∑high monumental building made up of three stages lit the harbour for over a millennium. A fire of wood and resin was lit at night, whereas a concave mirror at its apex reflected sunlight during the day to show its position as well as to burn enemy ships. When the Arabs conquered Egypt, they were in awe of Alexandria and the lighthouse, which was mentioned even in their own documents. When the earthquake destroyed the lighthouse in 1375, one of the Seven Wonders of the World was gone. The name Pharos is still used as the noun for lighthouse in some languages and the word pharology stands for the science dealing with lighthouses and signal lights. The impressive Croatian archipelago rises from the Adriatic Sea, the deepest intersection of the Mediterranean into the body of the old conti-nent. Today’s islands are the tops of the former continental mountains which used to connect the slopes of the high Dinaric range with the low-lying Apennines and thus formed a land continuum. Consequently, sailing the Adriatic does not mean attacking ocean expanses with waves several metres high. Nevertheless, other perils to safe navigation are caused by the remarkable indentation of the coastline which abounds among the islands. Attempts to avert the dangers posed by the numerous rocks and underwater cliffs and to mark the routes of safe passage were first made in the distant past. Until the moment when lighthouses started shining their bright lights far out into the sea, night time navigation presented a great danger.

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In ancient times, says scientist Joπko BoæaniÊ in his essay on lighthouses, people travelled during the day, mostly in summertime. One was not well-advised to take to the sea before a fig leaf was big enough to cover one’s palm. However, many shipwrecks are testament to the fact that people were not aware of all the dangers; that they did not know about ledges protruding through the bottom of the sea up to the surface.In the late 18th century, more precisely in 1797, with the fall of Venice, the Austro-Hungarian Empire stretched all the way down to the Adriatic Coast, and the Croatian littoral and its islands became its integral parts. The new ruler introduced order into the state administration, for land and maritime roads, and laid laws to regulate the functioning of maritime traffic including the necessary maritime signaliza-tion. During the 19th and early 20th century, the Empire built a network of beacons and the necessary lighthouses that still adorn our maritime space to this very day. Night time sailing and sailing in bad weather along the eastern shore of the Adriatic was thus made safe for the first time. The large family of 48 Adriatic lighthouses, of which 30 are listed under cultural heritage, of-fers a wide range of views and remarkable pan-oramas to admirers. In contemplating the Adri-atic as the origin of traditional heritage and the cradle of the memories of our predecessors,

a member of the International Association of Lighthouse Authorities.Savudrija, the westernmost and northernmost still-functioning Adriatic lighthouse occupies a special place. It was built way back in 1818 as the first in a string of lighthouses that follow the Adriatic Coast to its southernmost tip. The last in that series is the Grebeni lighthouse, which was built in 1872 a mile from Dubrovnik. It got its name from the sea ridges which were the bane of many fishing boats before the light-house was built.However, there is a lighthouse that stands out in terms of its position and size. It is the lighthouse on Palagruæa, built in 1875, on the island farthest away from the Croatian coast, on the border between the Italian and Croatian littorals. The magnificent stony edifice was erected at the top of a narrow cliff-like ridge, 110 metres high, on the island of Palagruæa Vela. Here, it sits among several bigger and smaller islands in the middle of the Adriatic and dominates the seascape. Archaeological remains testify to the 9000 years of habitation of Palagruæa. In the Middle Ages, a monastery existed there, whose ruins are still visible on the central saddle of the island. Occasional inhabitants are fishermen from Komiæa, who have been fishing there since the 14th century as the area has the most abundant supply of fish in the entire Adriatic. Ecclesiastical sources testify to Pope Alexan-der III’s visit to Palagruæa in 1177. He sailed along the Croatian coast with his maritime fleet because the strong bura wind made travel along the Italian coast perilous, especially in winter. At the time, on March 9th, the Pope was served dinner on the small plateau of Pa-lagruæa Mala, which has since been known as Papina Njiva (the Pope’s Field). Having visited Palagruæa, the Pope sailed towards Vis and Zadar and then proceeded along the coast of Istria on his way to Venice. There are many stories and myths about lighthouses. These edifices, separated from settled areas and communities, have always conjured up some sort of mystery and inspired stories about forbidden love affairs with sad endings, solitude, courage, abandonment... For example, one of the saddest love stories about lighthouse keepers involves the southern Adriatic lighthouse of St. Andrija, which was built in 1873. In the book, Stone Lights, the author Neven ©eriÊ tells stories and legends about Adriatic lighthouses, the places they were built and the sea surrounding them. One of them goes as follows: Towards the end of the 19th century, a young fisherman from the island of Lopud fell in love with the beautiful daughter of the St. Andrija

it is impossible to ignore these courageous light sentinels as part of the Adriatic universe; these strongholds embedded on uninhabited offshore islands, rocks and ridges have helped us prevail against natural hardships.As public property, lighthouses are mostly isolated in their environment; they were erected at easily-visible but often rather inaccessible places on the littoral or on the islands, on capes, and on elevated grounds; on far away islets, in close contact with the elements of nature: hard rocks, the deep sea, sparse veg-etation and strong winds. Their far-reaching beams of light still offer firm coordinates to help seamen determine their sailing position.Lighthouses and their keepers are seldom visited, and seldom seen. They have always served others, content to withdraw into a world of service without expecting a special reward, as if, indeed, giving light were not the biggest reward for the light giver. By preserving their solitude, these stony edifices have pre-served the spirit of the places where they were erected. Each of them is a world of its own, dignified in their inaccessibility, remarkable in the affirmation of human modesty, special in their mysteriousness. All Croatian lighthouses are managed by the Split-based Plovput Company which man-ages and maintains navigable routes along the Croatian sea and territorial waters. On behalf of the Republic of Croatia, the company is also

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lighthouse keeper. Unfortunately, her parents did not see the poor lad as the right suitor for their daughter. The young people’s love was stronger than any obstacle, and the brave lad would often swim at night to cross the two-mile distance to the islet of St. Andrija to spend nights with the love of his life. After some time, the father and the brothers got wise to what was really going on and devised a plan. The following night, when they saw the girl sneak out of the lighthouse, they turned off the tower beacon, embarked on a little boat and lit a light on it. Rowing slowly away from the mainland, they kept on drawing the young man towards them with the light. The lad swam until dawn, then succumbed to exhaustion and disappeared into the blue depths of the sea. When the girl learned of what had happened to her lover, she threw herself off a cliff on the southern side of the island. Neither of the two bodies was ever found again. Some divers who have explored the seabed under the southern cliffs of the island of St. Andrija say, one can observe two stone bass fish which, atypical of what adults do, always keep together and dive even deeper at a mere glance of a human being. Maybe these are the souls of the two lovers who were deeply let down by the human species... Lighthouse keepers are people attached to lighthouses. There was a time when every lighthouse had a keeper. Today, they only reside permanently at a few of them. Modern

Besides their aesthetic appeal, lighthouses across the Adriatic convey an ethical mes-sage as well: not to betray the true purpose of their existence, which is to continue to be a beacon of light on surrounding areas, of-fering safety and extending help to those in the distance, far away from the centre of their own axis. They are unconquered knights who persist in the shadow of modesty, restrained in showmanship, on the front line of their own waves and faraway horizons. In every one of them resides a kindness of spirit, full of com-passion, understanding and desire to help those in need. Despite the hurling of celestial thunders, the howling of the wind and the crashing of waves, it is still possible to hear the voice of love beckoning and feel a sense of heightened awe. n

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Park Plaza Verudela PulaThis resort offers stylish self-catering studios and one and two bedroom apartments, perfect for a family holiday.

Park Plaza Histria PulaThis stunning resort offers complete luxury including a wellness centre with sauna and spa for both business and leisure.

parkplaza.com

DISCOVERCROATIA’S NEWESTBEACH RESORTS

technologies have prevailed so that nowadays, all Adriatic lighthouses work automatically via a remote control system. However, due to the importance of lighthouses for safe navigation, and for the protection of the building itself, seventeen structures across the Adriatic still have a small crew of caretakers.Lighthouses offer a glimpse into the universe. Meeting lighthouse keepers, the custodians of light coming from the sea-facing stone tow-ers, is quite an experience. They convey the wisdom necessary to communicate with the world and with the universe in a deeper, more powerful and simpler way that is much richer than the communication offered by life in a big city. Living on an island with only seagulls, butterflies, lizards and lighthouse keepers as residents means to deafen oneself to the noise of civilization and to become oblivious to the impact of change and progress. The gift of-fered by such islands is the ability to connect with nature, with the wind, the sea, and with oneself. And what a gift that is!Lighthouses are the most beautiful summer homes on the Adriatic, offering the passer-by a sense of rare beauty. Built amidst white stones and landscapes of remarkable colour, the lighthouse keepers’ living quarters provide accommodation to tourists wishing to escape the bustling tourist resorts, and yearning for the peace and untainted beauty of the expansive horizon.

JADRANSKI SVJETIONICI SA GEOGRAFSKIM POZICIJAMA

SVJETIONIK GEOGRAFSKA POZICIJA1 Savudrija 45° 29,4' N / 013° 29,5' E2 Rt Zub 45° 17,9' N / 013° 34,4' E3 Sv. Ivan 45° 02,6' N / 013° 37,1' E4 Peneda 44° 53,3' N / 013° 45,5' E5 Verudica 44° 50,0' N / 013° 50,3' E6 Porer 44° 45,5' N / 013° 53,8' E7 Marlera 44° 48,2' N / 014° 00,4' E8 Crna Punta 44° 57,4' N / 014° 09,0' E9 Mlaka 45° 20,0' N / 014° 25,0' E10 Susak 44° 30,8' N / 014° 18,5' E11 Vnetak 44° 37,2' N / 014° 14,4' E12 Zaglav 44° 55,3' N / 014° 17,6' E13 Prestenice 45° 07,2' N / 014° 16,6' E14 Vošćica 45° 14,3' N / 014° 35,7' E15 Oštro - Kraljevica 45° 16,4' N / 014° 33,9' E16 Stražica 44° 56,0' N / 014° 46,4' E17 Trstenik 44° 40,1' N / 014° 35,0' E18 Grujica 44° 24,6' N / 014° 34,4' E19 Veli rat 44° 09,1' N / 014° 49,5' E20 Vir 44° 18,2' N / 015° 01,9' E21 3 Sestrice rivanjske 44° 10,3' N / 015° 01,0' E22 Puntamika 44° 07,8' N / 015° 12,5' E23 Tajerske sestrice 43° 51,2' N / 015° 12,5' E24 Babac 43° 57,4' N / 015° 24,0' E25 Prišnjak 43° 49,5' N / 015° 33,8' E26 Blitvenica 43° 37,5' N / 015° 34,8' E27 Jadrija 43° 43,3' N / 015° 51,3' E28 Mulo 43° 30,9' N / 015° 55,' E29 Murvica 43° 28,0' N / 016° 03,7' E30 Ražanj 43° 19,2' N / 016° 24,9' E31 Pokonji Dol 43° 09,4' N / 016° 27,4' E32 Stončica 43° 04,4' N / 016° 15,6' E33 Host 43° 04,6' N / 016° 12,6' E34 Sv. Petar 43° 17,7' N / 017° 00,8' E35 Sv. Nikola 43° 21,7' N / 016° 44,4' E36 Sućuraj 43° 07,5' N / 017° 12,1' E37 Lovište 43° 02,8' N / 017° 00,4' E38 Pločica 43° 01,8' N / 016° 49,2' E39 Sušac 42° 45,0' N / 016° 29,7' E40 Palagruža 42° 23,5' N / 016° 15,6' E41 Struga 42° 43,4' N / 016° 53,4' E42 Glavat 42° 45,9' N / 017° 09,0' E43 2 Sestrice-Korčula 42° 57,8' N / 017° 12,7' E44 Olipa 42° 45,5' N / 017° 46,9' E45 Slano 42° 46,6' N / 017° 52,7' E46 Daksa 42° 40,2' N / 018° 03,6' E47 Grebeni 42° 39,1' N / 018° 03,2' E48 Sv. Andrija 42° 38,8' N / 017° 57,3' E


Park Plaza MedulinThis beach resort is just what you need for a relaxed, contemplative vacation.

Escape to the cool blue waters and open spaces of Croatia’s famous Istrian Peninsula and stay at one of our brand new upscale beach resorts.With every one of them situated along breath-taking seafronts, not far from lush Mediterranean vegetation and buzzing Istrian city-centres, you are assured of an exciting holiday. Come and experience the joy of discovery.

For more information and to make a booking visit parkplaza.com/croatia

Park Plaza Verudela PulaThis resort offers stylish self-catering studios and one and two bedroom apartments, perfect for a family holiday.

Park Plaza Histria PulaThis stunning resort offers complete luxury including a wellness centre with sauna and spa for both business and leisure.

parkplaza.com

DISCOVERCROATIA’S NEWESTBEACH RESORTS


Loπinj obiljeæava tradiciju zdravstvenog turizma dulju od 120 godina. ZahvaljujuÊi

blagoj mediteranskoj klimi, borovim πumama i zraku, to je idealno mjesto za okrepu duπe i tijela. NauËite æivjeti s nama, u harmoniji s prirodom!Ugodna klima s viπe od 2600 sunËanih sati godiπnje i bogatstvo aerosoli u zraku te pro-fesor Ambroz HaraËiÊ zasluæni su πto je Loπinj joπ davne 1892. godine proglaπen klimatskim ljeËiliπtem. To je otok koji mirisima privlaËi iz daleka i mami goste da se prepuste svim svojim osjetilima -jedinstvena miomirisna oaza.Svako godiπnje doba na naπem otoku pruæa neπto novo. Kroz miomirise i okuse Loπinja jedni Êe zavoljeti smokve i kupine ljeti, drugi πparoge i neπpule u proljeÊe, treÊi maslinu, mirtu iplaniku u jesen, a Ëetvrti ljepotu i miris borove πume zimi.»ak 250 km πetnica na pet otoka povest Êe vas u avanturu otkrivanja svih ljepota krajolika ovog otoËja. Jedna od najljepπih - loπinjski lungomare, koja prati obalu mora prolazeÊi brojnim uvalama - omamit Êe vas ljepotom stoljetne borove πume.Uæivajte u aromaterapiji na otvorenom dok udiπete eteriËna ulja biljaka i borova, aerosoliiz mora sa zrakom vrhunske kvalitete te doæivite savrπen sklad po kojemu je Loπinj jedinstven. Osim na turistiËku, Loπinj je ucrtan i na svjet-sku arheoloπku kartu jer je u plavetnilu boga-tog loπinjskog podmorja, izmeu otoka Vele Orjule i Loπinja, pronaen jedinstveni antiËkibronËani kip iz II. ili I. st. pr. Kr.TuristiËka ponuda otoka Loπinja je velika, a kako bismo vam pomogli pri odabiru smjeπtaja o kakvom ste maπtali ili kvalitetne agencije koja Êe vam u tome pomoÊi, nudimo vam specifiËne razloge zbog kojih bi svatko od njih mogao biti vaπ izbor. ■

Loπinj has a health tourism tradition of over 120 years. Thanks to its mild Mediter-

ranean climate, pinewoods and air, this is an ideal place to recreate your body and spirit. Learn to live with us, in harmony with nature!The pleasant climate with over 2600 sunny hours a year, an air full of aerosols and Pro-fessor Ambroz HaraËiÊ are the reasons why Loπinj was proclaimed a health resort way back in 1892. This is an island attracting with its aromas from afar and luring its guests to surrender to all senses − a unique aromatic oasis.Each season on our island provides some-thing new. Thanks to the aromas and tastes of Loπinj, some will fall in love with figs and blackberries in summer, others will like as-paragus and loquat in spring, some will prefer olives, myrtle and strawberry tree in autumn, and some will like the beauty and smell of pinewoods in wintertime.As much as 250 km of promenades will take you on an adventure of discovering all beauties of this island’s landscapes. The Loπinj seaside promenade (lungomare), passing along many coves, will dazzle you with the beauty of centuries-old pine-woods.Enjoy outdoor aromatherapy while breathing in essential oils of herbs and pines and aero-sols from a top-quality air and experience a perfect harmony unique to Loπinj.In addition to the tourist map of the world, Loπinj is included in the archeological map of the world because a unique ancient bronze statue dating back to the 2nd or 1st century B.C. has been found in the blue underwater world surrounding Loπinj, between the island of Vela Orjula and Loπinj.

The tourist offer of the Island of Loπinj is ex-tensive − to help you choose accommodationyou have always dreamed about or a good agency that will help you with this, we are offering specific reasons why any of them could be your choice. ■


DOGA–ANJA / EVENTSRUJAN / SEPTEMBERmjesec æiæule, groæa, indijske smokve i mataraOSJETI KAKO LO©INJ MIOMIRI©E U JESEN! /the month of jujube, grapes, indian fig and samphireFEEL THE AROMA OF LO©INJ IN AUTUMN!www.miomirisni-vrt.hr

SVE»ANOST OKUSA I MIRISA /A FESTIVAL OF TASTES AND SCENTSwww.apoksiomen.com

RUJAN − LISTOPAD / SEPTEMBER − OCTOBERIZLOÆBA AMBROZ HARA»I∆ /EXHIBITION AMBROZ HARA»I∆www.island-losinj.com

IZRAZI SVOJU VITALNOST /EXPRESS YOUR VITALITYwww.losinj-hotels.com

RUJAN − PROSINAC / SEPTEMBER − DECEMBERDO–I NA LO©INJ I REKET PONESI! /COME TO LO©INJ AND BRING YOUR RACQUET!www.island-losinj.com

LISTOPAD / OCTOBERmjesec mirte, planike, πipka i maslaËkaLO©INJSKI SURVIVOR /the month of myrtle, strawberry tree, rose hip and dandelionLO©INJ SURVIVORwww.televrin.com

BICIKLISTI»KA TURA PO TRAMUNTANI /BICYCLE TOUR OF TRAMUNTANAwww.losinia.hr

LISTOPAD - STUDENI / OCTOBER − NOVEMBERmjesec masline, divlje ruæe i dunjeBERBA MASLINA NA OTOKU LO©INJU /the month of olive, wild rose and quinceOLIVE HARVEST ON THE ISLAND OF LO©INJwww.losinj-hotels.com

PROSINAC / DECEMBERmjesec agave, bora i smrikeOSJETI KAKO LO©INJ MIOMIRI©E ZIMI! /the month of agave, pine and juniperFEEL THE AROMA OF LO©INJ IN WINTER! www.miomirisni-vrt.hr

TRADICIJA I POVIJEST OTOKA LO©INJA /TRADITION AND HISTORY OF THE ISLAND OF LO©INJwww.losinj-hotels.com

Osjeti…udahni…pogledaj…okusi…dotakni…osluhni… otok vitalnosti /Feel…Breathe in…Take a look…Taste…Touch…Listen…the island of vitality

www.kvarner.hr

Documents

Croatian Maritime Heritage - Adriatic Light Houses