Croatia 5 Kvarner

8/10/2019 Croatia 5 Kvarner

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Protected by soaring mountains, covered with luxuriant forests, lined with beaches and

dotted with islands, the Kvarner Gulf (Quarnero in Italian) abounds in holiday options. You

can explore the urban fabric of Rijeka, Croatias third-largest city and biggest port, swim in

clear seas off secluded bays, hike in the dense woods of Uka and Risnjak parks, feast on

fresh seafood in the foodie mecca of Volosko, wander about medieval Rab Town on the

eponymous island, and tour the ancient hilltop villages of Cres.

Covering 3300 sq km between Rijeka in the north and Pag in the south, Kvarner is

a microcosm of the many influences that have formed Croatian culture. Rijeka owes its

architecture to Hungary, and echoes of the Venetian era pervade the islands of Cres, Loinj

and Rab, while Krk was the seat of Croatias native nobility, the Frankopan dukes. The mild

weather explains the wealth of vegetation: the islands of Cres, Loinj and Krk feature some

1300 plant species; Rab is known for its evergreen forests; and the lush greenery around

Opatija helped establish its reputation as a health resort.

From the gateway city of Rijeka, you can easily connect to the 19th-century elegance ofOpatija or Bakas sandy beach on Krk. The picture-perfect old towns of Krk, Rab, Mali Loinj

and Cres are just a ferry ride away, as are plenty of remote coves for scenic swimming. Krk is

the largest and most developed island, with excellent tourist infrastructure and summer hordes

that make use of it. Mali Loinj is also packed but prettier, and youre within easy reach of wild

unspoiled Cres with its virgin woods and medieval villages. Rab has the most striking old town

and enough hidden coves to easily escape the shoulder-to-shoulder summer crowds.

Kvarner Region

Lonely Planet Publications

TELEPHONE CODE: 051

HIGHLIGHTS

Sampling seafood specialities in the foodie

mecca of Volosko(p128)

Taking in the panoramic views from Rijekas

Trsat Castle (p122)

Enjoying a verdant hike in Uka Nature Park

(p129)

Learning about Adriatic dolphins at Blue

World(p136) on Veli Loinj

Hiking the primeval forests of Tramuntana

on Cres(p138)

Wandering the cobbled streets of medieval

Rab Town(p149)

Volosko

ParkNatureUka

TownRab

Rijeka

Veli Loinj

Cres

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ClimateThe regions mild climate has played animportant part in the growth of tourism.The Kvarner Gulf is protected from harshweather by the mountain range running

from Vojak (1401m) on Mt Uka in thenorthwest to Gorski Kotar in the east andthe Velebit Range in the southeast. Summershere are long and cooled by the maestral(strong, steady westerly wind). In winter,the bura (cold northeasterly wind) bringssudden rushes of cold air, but temperaturesrarely drop below freezing.

KVARNER COASTRIJEKApop 147,700While Rijeka (Fiume in Italian) doesnt fitthe bill as a tourist destination per se, it doesoffer an insightful glimpse into the worka-day life of Croatias third-largest city. Mostpeople rush through en route to the islandsor Dalmatia, but for those who pause, a few

assets await. Blend in with the coffee-sippinglocals on the bustling Korzo pedestrianstrip, stroll along the tree-lined promenadethat fronts the harbour, and visit the im-posing hilltop fortress of Trsat. Rijeka alsoboasts a burgeoning nightlife and, everyyear, Croatias biggest and most colourfulcarnival celebration.

Despite some regrettable architecturalventures in the outskirts, much of the centre

contains the ornate, imposing public build-ings you would expect to find in Vienna orBudapest, evidence of the strong Austro-Hungarian influence. Its a surprisingly ver-dant city once youve left its concrete core,which contains Croatias largest port. Theindustrial aspect is evident from the boats,cargo and cranes that line the waterfront,but theres a seedy beauty to it. Theres ru-mour of redeveloping the harbour, building

a new ferry terminal, banning traffic alongthe seaside and revitalising the city.As one of Croatias most important trans-

portation hubs, Rijeka has buses, trains andferries that connect Istria and Dalmatia withZagreb. Theres no real beach in the city soits assumed most visitors will pass through.Tourist resources are limited and hotel op-tions few, as most people base themselvesin Opatija.

HistoryFollowing their successful conquest of the in-digenous Illyrian Liburnian tribe, the Romansestablished a port here called Tarsaticae. It wasthe Slavic tribes who migrated to the region

in the 7th century and built a new settlementwithin the old Roman town.

The town changed feudal masters fromGerman nobility to the Frankopan dukes ofKrk before becoming part of the Austrianempire in the late 15th century. Rijeka was animportant outlet to the sea for the Austriansand a new road was built in 1725 connectingVienna with the Kvarner coast. This spurredeconomic development, especially shipbuild-

ing, the industry that has remained the centre-piece of Rijekas economy ever since.

With the birth of the Austro-HungarianDual Monarchy in 1867, Rijeka was given overto the jurisdiction of the Hungarian govern-ment. The urban landscape acquired a newlook as Hungarian architects descended uponthe city to erect municipal buildings. A newrailway was built linking the city to Zagreb,Budapest and Vienna, and bringing the first

tourists to the Kvarner Gulf.Between 1918, when Italian troops seizedRijeka and Istria under the leadership ofGabriele dAnnunzio, and 1942 when Rijekabecame part of postwar Yugoslavia, it changedhands several times, with sporadic periodsas a free city. In 1991, Rijeka became part ofindependent Croatia but still retains a siz-able, well-organised Italian minority who havetheir own newspaper, La Voce del Popolo.

OrientationKorzo runs through the city centre, roughlyparallel to Riva, towards Mrtvi Kanal and theRjeina River in the east. The intercity bus sta-tion is on Trg abica at the western edge ofRiva. Local buses and the airport shuttle runfrom Jelaiev Trg. The train station is a five-minute walk west of the intercity bus station.

InformationINTERNET ACCESSTheres free wireless access along Korzo andin parts of Trsat.Cont(%371 630; Andrije Kaia Mioia 1; per hr 15KN;h7am-10pm) This caf inside Hotel Continental has afull bank of computers.Erste Club (%320 072; Korzo 22;h7am-11pm Mon-Sat, 8am-10pm Sun) Four terminals where you can surf forfree, up to 30 minutes.

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LAUNDRY

Blitz(Kreimirova 3a; per small load 51KN;h7am-8pmMon-Fri, to 2pm Sat) Between the intercity-bus and trainstations.

LEFT LUGGAGEGarderobaintercity bus station (per day 13KN;h5.30am-10.30pm); train station(per day in locker 15KN;h4.30am-10.30pm) The bus stationgarderobais at the caf nextdoor to the ticket office.

MEDICAL SERVICES

Hospital (%658 111; Kreimirova 42)

MONEY

There are two ATMs at the train station and anumber of them along Korzo and around thecity centre. The exchange offices adjacent tothe train and bus stations keep long hours.

POST

Main post office(Korzo 13;h7am-8pm Mon-Fri, to2pm Sat) Has a telephone centre and an exchange office.

TOURIST INFORMATION

Tourist Information Centre (%335 882; www.tz-rijeka.hr; Korzo 33a;h8am-8pm Mon-Sat, 9am-2pmSun Jun-Aug, 8am-8pm Mon-Fri, 8am-2pm Sat Sep-May)This spiffy centre has plentiful free materials and infoabout private accommodation.

SightsA devastating earthquake struck Rijeka in1750 and destroyed much of its originalarchitecture. The city was almost entirely

rebuilt in the grand Habsburg style thatprevails today. Korzo, the main pedestrianpromenade and these days the focal pointof social coffee drinking, was built as a com-mercial avenue on the site of the demolishedtown walls.

The maze of streets and squares in theancient core of Rijeka is excellently markedwith multilingual plaques explaining thehistory of each sight. The tourist office dis-

tributes maps of this walking route, calledTuristika Magistrala.

MONUMENTS

One of the few buildings to have survivedthe earthquake, the distinctive yellow CityTower(Gradski Toranj) was originally a gatefrom the seafront to the city. The Habsburgsadded the baroque decorations after the dis-aster, including the portal with coats of arms

and busts of emperors. The still-functioningclock was mounted in 1873.

Pass under the City Tower, continuethrough Trg Ivana Koblera and take an alleyto the north to find the oldest architectural

monument in Rijeka, the Roman Gate (StaraVrata). This plain archway marks the formerentrance to Praetorium, an ancient militarycomplex, the remains of which you can seein a small excavation area.

ST VITUS CATHEDRAL

North of the Roman Gate is the cathedral(Katedrala Svetog Vida; Trg Grivica 11;h7am-noon &4.30-7pm Mon-Sat, 7am-noon Sun Jun-Aug, 6.30am-noon

Sep-May), built by the Jesuit order in 1638 onthe site of an older church and dedicated toRijekas patron saint. Massive marble pillarssupport the central dome under which arehoused baroque altars and a 13th-centuryGothic crucifix. According to legend, a mannamed Petar Lonari threw a stone at thecrucifix and blood began to flow from Christsbody. The man was swallowed by the groundand the blood is still held in a vial.

CAPUCHIN CHURCH OF OUR LADY

OF LOURDES

Looming over the intercity bus station, thischurch(Crkva Gospe Lurdske; Kapucinske Stube 5;h8am-noon & 4-6pm), with its ornate neo-Gothic facade,dates from 1904. The Capuchin sponsors ofthe project ran into financing problems mid-way through construction and enlisted theaid of a St Johanca, who allegedly sweated

blood in front of the credulous masses. Giftsand money poured into the coffers and thebuilding was finally completed in 1929. (StJohanca was arrested for fraud in 1913.)

MARITIME & HISTORY MUSEUM

This museum (Pomorski i Povijesni Muzej HrvatskogPrimorja;%553 666; www.ppmhp.hr; Muzejski Trg 1;adult/student 10/5KN;h9am-8pm Tue-Fri, to 1pm Sat) ishoused in the Governors Palace, a splendid

showcase of Hungarian architecture. Pick upthe small leaflet in English for a self-guidedtour that gives a vivid picture of life amongseafarers, with model ships, sea charts, naviga-tion instruments and portraits of captains.

RIJEKA CITY MUSEUM

Just to the west of the palace is the Rijeka CityMuseum(Muzej Grada Rijeke;%336 711; Muzejski Trg 1/1;adult/student 10/5KN, admission free Mon;h10am-1pm &

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K V A R N E R C O A S T R i j e k a Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels

5-8pm Mon-Fri, 10am-1pm Sat). Housed in a 1970scubicle structure, it hosts temporary exhibitsand events, ranging from retrospectives bylocal photographers and architects, to visitingshows from Serbia and Italy.

NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM

In the same area, the Natural History Museum(Prirodoslovni Muzej;%553 669; Lorenzov Prolaz 1; adult/student 10/5KN;h9am-7pm Mon-Sat, to 3pm Sun) isdevoted to the geology and botany of theAdriatic. In addition to a multimedia centrewith an aquarium, there are exhibits on bugs,snakes and frogs on the three floors of this19th-century villa. The adjacent botanical

garden with over 2000 native plant species isa great place to unwind.

MUSEUM OF MODERN &

CONTEMPORARY ART

Just up from the Korzo on the 2nd floor of theUniversity Library, this museum(Muzej Modernei Suvremene Umjetnosti;%334 280; www.mmsu.hr; Dolac1; adult/student 10/5KN;h10am-1pm & 6-9pm Tue-SunJun-Aug, 10am-1pm & 5-8pm Sep-May) puts on rotat-

ing shows, be it an opus of a contemporaryCroatian artist or a display of multi-artistworks curated around a single theme.

TRSAT CASTLE & CHURCH

High on a hill overlooking Rijeka and theRjeina River, Trsat Castle (%217 714; adult/student 15/5KN;h9am-8pm May-Oct, to 5pm Nov-Apr)isa 13th-century fortress that has occupied thisstrategic position since Illyrian times. The

present structure was built by the Frankopandukes of Krk, but the latest facelift was donein 1824 when Irish-born count Laval Nugent,a commander in the Austrian army, boughtthe castle and had it restored in a roman-tic Classicist-Biedermeier style. The ancientGreek-style Nugent family mausoleumhouses a gallery, while underground a formerdungeon hosts occasional exhibits. Duringsummer, the fortress features concerts, thea-

tre performances and fashion shows. Theopen-air caf is a wonderful spot to take inthe vistas.

The other hill highlight is the Church ofOur Lady of Trsat (Crkva Gospe Trsatske;%452 900;Frankopanski Trg;hby appointment), a centuries-oldmagnet for believers. According to legend,the angels carrying the house of the VirginMary from Nazareth rested here in the late13th century before moving it to Loreto in

Italy. Pilgrims started trickling in to the chapelerected on the site, and then pouring in whenthe pope donated an icon of Mary in 1367.The famous painting is on the main altar be-hind a magnificent wrought-iron gate. Checkout the offerings of votive gifts across the ba-roque cloister and make an appointment tosee the valuable sacral art collection in thetreasury, where theyll play a 15-minute filmabout the church.

To follow in the pilgrims steps, climb thePetar Kruistairway from Titov Trg, built in1531 for the faithful on their way to Our Ladyof Trsat. The steep stairs are lined with chapelsdedicated to saints, once used as rest stops forthe pilgrims. For an easier way up, take a quickride on city bus 1 or 1A to Trsat Castle.

Festivals & EventsThe Rijeka Carnival (www.ri-karneval.com.hr) is thelargest and most elaborate in Croatia, withtwo weeks of partying that involves pageants,street dances, concerts, masked balls, exhibi-tions and an international parade. Check outthe zvonari,masked men clad in animal skinswho dance and ring loud bells to frighten

off evil spirits. The festivities take place any-where between late January and early March,depending on when Easter falls.

Concerts are held at the Croatian NationalTheatre (p124) during Rijeka Summer Nights(Rijeke Ljetne Noi) in June and July.

SleepingPrices in Rijeka hotels generally stay the sameyear-round except at Carnival time, when you

TOP FIVE BEACHES IN THE KVARNER

REGION

Baka (p146; Krk Island) a gorgeous

sweep of pebble beach with a glorious

mountain backdrop

Beli (p138; Cres Island) this cosy cove

has calm, crystal water and no crowds

Lopar (p152; Rab Island) a strip of

sandy beaches bordered by pine groves

Sunana Uvala (p132; Loinj Island)

plenty of rocky and pebbly coves with

pine-tree shade

Lungomare (p126; Opatija) rockformations create dozens of private

beaches along the promenade

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can expect to pay a surcharge. You shouldbook well in advance if you want to visit dur-ing this time. There are few private rooms inRijeka itself; the tourist office lists these onits website. Opatija is a much better choice

for accommodation (see p126).Youth Hostel (%406 420; [email protected]; etaliteXIII Divizije 23; dm/s/d 130/235/310KN;i) Five busstops east of the centre (on bus 2) in theleafy residential area of Peine, this reno-

vated 19th-century villa has clean and snugunits and a communal TV room. Breakfast isavailable (15KN); reservations are advisablein summer.

Hotel Continental (%372 008; www.jadran-hoteli

.hr; Andrije Kaia Mioia 1; s/d 384/449KN;pi)Atthe time of writing, more than half of therooms inside this grand building were beingrevamped. Once theyre primped up, the rat-ing will go up to three stars and the prices willincrease by 15%. The location is great, justnortheast of the centre.

Hotel Neboder (%373 538; www.jadran-hoteli.hr;Strossmayerova 1; s/d 440/550KN;pi) Fantasticcity and harbour views make up for the small

rooms in this recently refurbished high-rise ona gentle hill near Hotel Continental. Superiorunits have air-con and balconies.oHotel Jadran (%216 600; www.jadran-ho

teli.hr; etalite XIII Divizije 46; s/d 672/793KN;pai)The four-star upgrade of this longstandinghotel produced airy rooms with huge glasswindows or balconies offering sea vistas. Perksinclude a restaurant, a small gym and a privatebeach below. Its worth the 1km trip east of

the city centre.Grand Hotel Bonavia (%357 100; www.bonavia.hr; Dolac 4; s/d from 945/1135KN;pnai) Beton highbrow luxury at this top hotel, oneof Croatias best. Slick rooms are equippedwith all top-of-the-line amenities. The res-taurant serves outstanding creative cui-sine, while the spa offers treats such asaromatherapy showers.

EatingIf you want a meal on a Sunday, youll be rele-gated to either fast food, pizza or a hotel res-taurant, as nearly every other place in Rijeka isclosed. There are a number of cafs on Korzothat serve light meals.

Konoba Rijeka (%312 084; Riva Boduli 7c; mainsfrom 25KN) Tasty and cheap fish meals can behad at this restaurant right on the harbour,with high ceilings, stone walls and plenty of

fish nets. Try the dried octopus omelette, ahouse speciality.

Tapas Bar (%315 313; Pavla Rittera Vitezovia 5; tapasaround 25KN) One of Rijekas newest openings,this small and stylish spot on a quiet city

centre block churns out Croatian-inspiredtapas. Delicious bruschetteare topped withanchovies, truffles, fresh tuna and so on, andcost 9KN per piece. Portions are small andthe bill adds up.oNa Kantunu(%313 271; Demetrova 2; mains

from 35KN)If youre lucky to grab a table at thistiny lunchtime spot on an industrial stretchof the port, youll be treated to the superlativedaily catch. Just point to your fish of choice

or let the staff prepare it house style. Fridaylunches are the busiest, when many localsdont eat red meat.

Feral (%212 274; Matije Gupca 5b; mains from 60KN)It may be past its glory as one of Rijekas bestrestaurants but this city classic, around since1964, still does great black risotto and urlice(homemade pasta from Krk) in its exposedbrick interior. The fish marenda (lunch)served till 1pm costs just 30KN.

Zlatna koljka(%213 782; Kruna 12; mains 65-95KN)Savour the superbly prepared seafood andchoice Croatian wines at this classy mari-time-themed restaurant. The mixed-fishstarter, Conco dOro, is pricey (100KN)but worth it. The adjacent Bracera, by thesame owners, serves crusty pizza, even ona Sunday.

Municipium (%213 000; Trg Rijeke Rezolucije 5;mains from 70KN) What comes out of the kitchen

at this fancy restaurant in a historic build-ing are updated versions of Croatian classics.The food is light and well prepared and thecrowd busy making business deals.

Kukuriku (%691 417; www.kukuriku.hr; Trg MatkaLaginje 1a, Kastav; 6-course meals 370-510KN;hclosedMon Nov-Easter) Among the pioneers of the slowfood movement in Croatia (see p52), thisgastronomic destination in the old town ofKastav, Rijekas hilltop suburb, offers delecta-

ble meals amid lots of rooster-themed deco-ration. Its worth the splurge and the trek outof town on bus 18. The restaurant is set tomove to a new nearby location soon; checkthe website for updates.

For self-caterers, theres a large super-market in between the intercity bus andtrain stations, and a city market (btwn VatroslavaLisinskog & Trninina)open till 2pm daily (noonon Sundays).

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DrinkingWith several recent openings, Rijekas night-life got a boost of energy. Bar-hoppers cruise

the bars and cafs along Riva and Korzo forthe liveliest social hubbub. A couple of theseare housed in boats on Adamiev Gat: thedownstairs ofArca Fiumanais frequented bythe rock crowd, while Ninanext door hopswith narodnjaci (folk music). Many of thebars double as clubs on weekends.

Dva Lava (%332 390; Ante Starevia 8)The twoalfresco terraces of this popular den, one on atree-shaded square, are always packed during

the day. DJs spin on weekend nights and thetwo floors with futuristic decor hop till late.Hemingway (%211 696; Korzo 28) This stylish

venue for coffee-sipping, cocktail-drinkingand people-watching pays homage toits namesake with large B&W photosand drinks named after him. Its part of afashionable chain.

Indigo (%315 174; Stara Vrata 3)On weekends,the owner likes to lay tracks at this snazzy

hang-out next to an archaeological dig. Salsadancing and after-work parties take place onweeknights. Theres a restaurant that, atypi-cally, serves brunch.

Karolina(%211 447; Gat Karoline Rijeke bb)Trendybut not self-conscious about it, this waterfrontbar-caf is a relaxed place for a daytime coffee.At night, crowds spill out onto the wharf in ahuge outdoor party. There are live DJ acts onsummer nights.

Opium Buddha Bar(Riva 12a) The decor is wan-nabe Asian, the sounds are electronic and theweekends jump at this dark and sprawling

lounge bar with an outdoor terrace.

EntertainmentCroatian National Theatre Ivan Zajc (%355 900; www.hnk-zajc.hr; Verdieva 5a)In 1885, the inaugural per-formance at this imposing theatre was lit bythe citys first light bulb. These days, you cancatch mostly dramas in Croatian and Italian,as well as opera and ballet. Gustav Klimtpainted some of the ceiling frescoes.

ShoppingLook for the traditional Rijeka design knownas morii,a ceramic jewellery piece of a Moorwearing a turban (see boxed text, above). Youcan pick one up at Mala Galerija(%335 403; www.mala-galerija.hr, in Croatian; Uarska 25).

Getting There & AwayAIR

Croatia Airlines (%330 207; www.croatiaairlines.hr; Jelaiev Trg 5;h8am-4pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noon Sat)operates international and domestic flights.

BOAT

Jadrolinija (%211 444; www.jadrolinija.hr; Riva 16;h8am-8pm Mon-Fri, 9am-5pm Sat & Sun)sells ticketsfor the large coastal ferries that run all yearbetween Rijeka and Dubrovnik on their wayto Bari in Italy, via Split, Hvar and Korula.

MORII

The morii is a traditional symbol of Rijeka, and its official mascot. The image of a black person

topped with a colourful turban is made into ceramic brooches and earrings, and is a popular

disguise at the Rijeka Carnival (p122).

There are a few legends about Rijekas most recognisable symbol. According to one story,

during the 16th-century Turkish invasions, the women and children prayed for a rain of stones

to bury their enemy. An arrow struck and killed the Turkish pasha in the temple as a result of

their prayers. The terrified Turks scattered as the skies opened and stones hailed down, burying

them. The men were so grateful for their wives assistance that they presented them with the

colourful earrings. Another tale tells of an Italian baron who was so fond of her black slave that

she granted the woman her freedom and had earrings made in her image.

More mundanely, it appears that the moriiwas a spin-off from the Venetian morettodesign

that was part of a 17th- and 18th-century fad. The gem-encrusted Venetian Moor was simplified

by Rijeka jewellers and sold to poorer women as simple B&W ceramic earrings. Men also picked up

on the fashion; a single earring was worn by only sons, sailors and fishermen for good luck.In the late 19th century, Rijeka jewellers improved the quality of the artisanship and branched

out into rings, brooches and necklaces. Upper-class women snatched up the pieces and, with

a display at the Vienna International Exhibition of 1873, morii became popular throughout

Europe.

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Other ferry routes include RijekaCresMaliLoinj and RijekaRabPag. Schedules andfares change so check Jadrolinijas web-site. All ferries depart from Rijekas wharf(Adamiev Gat).

Jadroagent (%211 626; www.jadroagent.hr; TrgIvana Koblera 2) has information on all boatsaround Croatia.

BUS

If you fly into Zagreb, there is a CroatiaAirlines van that goes directly from Zagrebairport to Rijeka twice daily (145KN, twohours, 3.30pm and 9pm). It goes back toZagreb from Rijeka at 5am and 11am. There

are six daily buses to Trieste (60KN, 2hours) and one daily bus to Plitvice (130KN,four hours), with a change in Otoac.

The intercity bus station(%060 302 010; Trg abica1)is in the town centre. For international con-nections, see p308. Following are some of themore popular domestic routes:

Destination Fare (KN) Duration Daily (hr) services

Baka 71 2 4-8Dubrovnik 340-485 12-13 2-3Krk 50 1-2 14Pore 72-114 1-3 7-11Pula 78-88 2 8-10Rab 125 3 2Rovinj 81-112 2-3 4-5Split 241-327 8 6-7Zadar 153-202 4-5 6-7Zagreb 95-174 2-3 13-17

CAR

Dollar & Thrifty RentalCar(%325 900; www.subrosa.hr), with a booth inside the intercity bus sta-tion, has cars from 466KN per day (2500KNper week) with unlimited kilometres. Youcan also try National (%212 452; www.nationalcar.hr; Demetrova 18b).

TRAIN

The train station (%213 333; Kreimirova 5) is a

five-minute walk from the city centre. Sevendaily trains run to Zagreb (96KN, 3 to fivehours). Theres a daily train to Split (160KN,10 hours) that changes at Ogulin, where youwait for two hours. Two direct daily serviceshead to Ljubljana (93KN, three hours) andone daily train goes to Vienna (307KN to498KN, nine hours). Reservations are com-pulsory on some poslovni (business-class)trains.

Getting AroundTO/FROM THE AIRPORT

Rijeka Airport(%842 040; www.rijeka-airport.hr; Hamec1, Omialj)is on Krk Island, 30km from town. Anairport bus meets all flights for a 30-minute

ride to Jelaiev Trg; it leaves from this samesquare for the airport two hours and 20 min-utes before flight times. You can buy the ticket(22KN) on the bus. Taxis cost about 300KN;call%332 893 or%335 138.

BUS

Rijeka has an extensive network of city busesthat run from the central station at JelaievTrg. Buy two-trip tickets for 14KN at any tisak(newsstand). A single ticket from the drivercosts 10KN.

Rijeka also has a sightseeing bus that shut-tles tourists between major sights in Rijeka,Trsat and Opatija. The one-day ticket, avail-able for hopping on and off wherever andwhenever you please, costs 70KN. For tick-ets and detailed schedules, visit the touristoffice (p121).

OPATIJApop 9073Just 15km west of Rijeka, Opatija (Abbazia inItalian) is one of Croatias most spectacularsights. On this stretch of coast, the forestedhills slope down to the sparkling sea, en-hanced by the peak of Vojak (1401m), westof Opatija and the highest point on the Istrianpeninsula. The best vantage point for this vistais Lungomare, a waterfront promenade that

stretches for 12km along the Opatija Rivierafrom Volosko to Lovran.

It was this breathtaking location and theagreeable year-round climate that madeOpatija the most fashionable seaside resortfor the Viennese elite during the Austro-Hungarian Empire. Between the world warsand during the Yugoslav period, however,the belle poque villas went into decline andOpatija lost its former lustre.

The good news is that the grand residencesof the wealthy have since been revamped andturned into upmarket hotels, with a particularaccent on spa and health holidays. Foodieshave been flocking from afar, too, for theclutch of fantastic restaurants in the nearbyfishing village of Volosko. Good food, coastalscenery, clear waters and many parks attract asteady flow of tourists, especially in the sum-mer months and around Christmas.

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K V A R N E R C O A S T O p a t i j a Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels

HistoryUntil the 1840s, Opatija was a humble fishing

village with 35 houses and a church, but thearrival of wealthy Iginio Scarpa from Rijekaturned things around. He built Villa Angiolina

(named after his wife) and surrounded it withspecies of exotic plants from Japan, China,South America and Australia. The villa hostedsome of Europes finest aristocrats, includ-ing the Austrian queen Maria Anna, wife ofFerdinand. The towns reputation as a retreatfor the elite was born.

Opatijas development was also assistedby the construction of a rail link on theViennaTrieste line in 1873. Construction

of Opatijas first hotel, the Quarnero (todaythe Hotel Kvarner), began and wealthy visitorsarrived en masse. It seemed everyone who wasanyone was compelled to visit Opatija, includ-ing kings from Romania and Sweden, Russiantsars and the celebrities of the day such asIsadora Duncan, Gustav Mahler, GiacomoPuccini and Anton Chekov.

Although Opatija has never acquired theglitter of the French Riviera, it has become

a favoured holiday spot for sleek, bronzedItalians in the summer. The mild winters at-tract a sizable number of elderly Austrians whocome to nibble on cakes in the Hotel Kvarnerand take a healthy saunter by the sea.

OrientationOpatija sits on a narrow strip of land sand-wiched between the sea and the foothills ofthe Uka mountain range. Ulica Marala Tita

is the main road that runs through town; itslined with travel agencies, restaurants, shopsand hotels. The bus from Rijeka stops first atthe Hotel Belvedere, then near the market andfinally at the bus station at the foot of town onTrg Vladimira Gortana.

InformationUlica Marala Tita has numerous ATMs andtravel agencies eager to change money.

Da Riva(%272 990; www.da-riva.hr; Ulica MaralaTita 170;h8am-8pm Junmid-Sep, shorter hr rest ofyear) Finds private accommodation and offers excursionsaround Croatia.GI Turizam (%273 030; www.tourgit.com; UlicaMarala Tita 65;h9am-10pm summer, to 8pm rest ofyear) Finds private accommodation, books excursions, rentscars and changes money.Katarina Line (%603 400; www.katarina-line.hr; UlicaMarala Tita 71;h8am-10pm Mon-Sat, 8am-9pm Sun

summer, 8am-4pm Mon-Sat rest of year) Known for itscruises around the Adriatic, it also books accommodationand day trips.Linea Verde (%701 107; www.lineaverde-croatia.com;Andrije tangera 42, Volosko;h8am-10pm Mon-Sat,

8am-9pm Sun summer, 8am-4pm Mon-Sat rest of year)Hiking excursions to Risnjak (p128), gourmet tours to Istria(p154) and shepherds picnics to Uka Nature Park (p129).Post office(%271 733; Eugena Kumiia 4;h7am-9pm Mon-Fri, to 2pm Sat) Behind the market.Tourist office (%271 310; www.opatija-tourism.hr;Ulica Marala Tita 101;h8am-10pm Mon-Sat, 5-9pmSun Jul & Aug, 8am-7pm Mon-Sat Apr-Jun & Sep, 8am-4pmMon-Sat Oct-Mar) Distributes maps, leaflets and brochures.

Sights & ActivitiesRestored to its former neoclassical splendour,the exquisite Villa Angiolina now housesthe Croatian Museum of Tourism (Park Angiolina 1;h9am-1pm & 4.30-9.30pm Tue-Sun summer, shorter hrrest of year). The collection of old photographs,postcards, brochures and posters tracing thehistory of travel is interesting enough, butthe real highlight is the villas interior amarvel of trompe lil frescoes, Corinthian

capitals and geometric floor mosaics. Dontmiss a stroll around the lush park, overgrownwith gingko trees, sequoias, holm oaks andJapanese camellia, Opatijas symbol. At thetime of writing, admission to the museum andgrounds was free; however, there will soon bean entrance fee.

The pretty Lungomare is the regions show-case. Lined with plush villas and ample gar-dens, this shady promenade winds along the

sea for 12km from Volosko to Lovran via thesmall villages of Iii and Ika. Along the wayare innumerable rocky outgrowths provid-ing places to throw down a towel and jumpinto the sea a better option than Opatijasconcrete beach.

Opatija and the surrounding region offersome wonderful opportunities for hiking andbiking around Uka Nature Park (see p129).

SleepingThere are no real budget hotels in Opatija,but the midrange and top-end places offersurprisingly good value for money consider-ing Opatijas overall air of chic. Liburnia Hotels(%710 444; www.liburnia.hr) manages 15 hotelsin the area and is a good bet for getting aroom. Note that Opatija gets booked up overthe Christmas holidays, so reserve ahead forthis time.

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Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels K V A R N E R C O A S T O p a t i j a

Private rooms are abundant and reasonablypriced. The travel agencies listed on oppositeall find private accommodation. In the highseason, rooms cost between 80KN and 115KNper person, depending on the amenities;

two-person apartments range from 255KNto 575KN. A 30% surcharge applies for staysunder three nights.

HOTELS

Hotel Opatija (%271 388; www.hotel-opatija.hr; TrgVladimira Gortana 2/1; s low-high 280-361KN, d 678-1002KN;ps)The setting in a Habsburg-era man-sion is the forte of this hilltop three-star withpleasant rooms. Facilities include a fantas-

tic terrace, an indoor seawater pool andtennis courts.Hotel Residenz (%271 399; www.liburnia.hr; Ulica

Marala Tita 133; s low-high 293-524KN, d 354-816KN)Whilerooms boast no frills unless you pay extrafor a unit with a balcony the building is aclassic, right on the seafront with a privatebeach below.

Villa Ariston (%271 379; www.villa-ariston.com;Ulica Marala Tita 179; s low-high 350-480KN, d 600-800KN;

pa) Plush furnishings, gilt-edged mirrorsand ornate chandeliers adorn this imperialvilla that has hosted celebrities includingCoco Chanel and the Kennedys. A fragrantgarden of cypress and pine trees drops downto the sea.

Hotel Kvarner (%271 233; www.liburnia.hr; PaveTomaia 1-4; s low-high 462-578KN, d 653-1039KN;s)Feel like part of the jet set from a bygoneera in Opatijas oldest hotel. Splash in an

indoor-outdoor pool, walk through plushhallways and recline on period furniture inhigh-ceilinged rooms that, despite the fame,could use an update.

Hotel Mozart (%718 260; www.hotel-mozart.hr; UlicaMarala Tita 138; s low-high 660-920KN, d 1095-1530KN;pais)Light-flooded rooms featureold-school style and Secessionist furniture,the stars add up to five, and the spiffy new spaoffers saunas and steam baths. Most rooms

come with sea-facing balconies.CAMPING

There are two camping grounds in the area:Medveja(%291 191; [email protected]; per adult/tent 41/29KN;hEastermid-Oct), on a pretty cove10km south of Opatija, and Camping Opatija(%704 836; www.rivijera-opatija.hr; Liburnijska 46, Iii;adult/tent 36/27KN;hApr-Oct), in a pine forest 5kmsouth of town before you reach Lovran.

EatingMarala Tita is lined with serviceable restau-rants that offer pizza, grilled meat and fish. Thebetter restaurants are off the main strip.

Vongola(%711 854; Ulica Marala Tita 113; mains from

30KN)For cheap chow, head to this simple spoton Slatina city beach, at the eastern end ofMarala Tita. Expect pizzas, pastas, grilledmeats and fish.

Kaneta(%712 222; Nova Cesta 64; mains from 40KN)Atthe top of Marala Tita, this family restaurantspecialises in goulash, pasta with truffles, steakwith gorgonzola and other hearty delicacies.

Istranka (%271 835; Boe Milanovia 2; mains from45KN)Graze on flavourful Istrian mainstays,

such as manetra (vegetable and bean soupsimilar to minestrone) andfui(hand-rolledpasta tubes), at this rustic-themed tavern in asmall street just up from Marala Tita.

Bevanda (%493 888; Zert 8; mains from 80KN)It re-cently changed ownership from that whichbuilt its reputation, but this elegant restauranton the Lido still delivers terrific fresh fish andshellfish. Get a table at the all-white terraceright on the sea.

For self-catering types, theres a supermarket-deli(Ulica Marala Tita 80).

DrinkingOpatija used to be the playground of Rijekaspartygoers, but it took a hit when the po-lice started cracking down on drunk drivers.Viennese-style coffeehouses and hotel terracesstill dominate the scene, while a few stylishbars add the extra punch.

The ever-popular Hemingway (Zert 2) on theharbour is an enjoyable place for a seasidedrink. For a cocktail on the beach, head toTantra (Lido)just around the corner, a lounge barwith chill-out music and unbeatable coastal

views. The trendiest place in town is stillMonokini (%703 888; Ulica Marala Tita 96), the wa-tering hole of choice for Opatijas scenesters.Chocolate lovers should head next door for asweet fix at Choco Bar(%603 562; Ulica Marala Tita 94),

with great chocolate cocktails, ice cream andcakes. Disco Seven(www.discoseven.hr; Ulica Marala Tita125) is Opatijas only club with a typical rosterof electronic tunes and a seaside terrace.

Getting There & AwayBus 32 stops in front of the train station inRijeka (15KN, 15km) and runs along theOpatija Riviera west of Rijeka to Lovran every20 minutes daily until late in the evening.

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AROUND OPATIJAVoloskoVolosko, 2km east of Opatija, is an old fishing

village rising up on a gentle hill in a war-ren of narrow alleyways, stone townhouses

and flower-laden balconies. In addition to itsMediterranean allure, a chief reason to visitis a set of stellar restaurants that has sproutedaround the small harbour of this otherwisequiet village. Volosko is now a mecca forfoodies, with several fine choices, howeverdeep your pockets.

You can come from Rijeka by bus or walkalong the coastal promenade from Opatija,a 20-minute stroll past bay trees, palms, figs

and oaks, behind which you can glimpsemagnificent villas.

EATING

Konoba Ribarnica Volosko (%701 483; tangerova5; mains from 20KN;hclosed Sun dinner)No cash tosplash? This tiny shopfront has Voloskoscheapest fresh fish. Point to your desired seacreature calamari, sardines, scampi and eatthe well-prepared dish in a small downstairs

dining room around the corner. Its on themain road parallel to the harbour.oSkalinada (%701 109; Put Uz Dol 17; mains

from 25KN)One of Voloskos best-kept secrets,this small, colourful and artsy restauranthides behind a stone vault entrance justbelow the second bus stop on the road fromRijeka. Appetising food is made with seasonalingredients from nearby villages.

Tramerka (%701 707; Andrije Mohoroviia 15; mains

from 30KN)Locals in the know flock to the stone-wall interior of this konoba(tavern) namedafter an uninhabited island in the Zadararchipelago. Expect creatively prepared andwell-priced seafood dishes. Its just up a setof stairs to the left of Plavi Podrum.

Plavi Podrum (%701 223; Supilova Obala 12; mainsfrom 60KN) The decor is on the maritime-kitsch side, but the seafood is consistentlytop-rated and paired with select wines. The

owner is one of Croatias top sommeliers andwine columnists.Le Mandra(%701 357; Supilova Obala 10; mains from

60KN)The forward-thinking Mediterraneanfood at Le Mandra is innovative and fullof flavour, but locals appear to prefer PlaviPodrum next door. It could be that theover-designed swanky interior is a tad in-timidating. Splurge on a tasting menu (270KNto 490KN).

RISNJAK NATIONAL PARKRelatively isolated, rarely visited and certainlyunderappreciated by foreign tourists, thismajestic park only 35km northeast of Rijekadeserves to be much better known. Part of

the wooded Gorski Kotar region, it covers anarea of 63 sq km and rises up to 1528m at itshighest peak, Veliki Risnjak. The landscapeis thickly forested with beech and pine trees,carpeted with meadows and wildflowers, andpock-marked by karst formations: sinkholes,cracks, caves and abysses. The bracing alpinebreezes make it the perfect hideaway whenthe coastal heat and crowds below becomeoverpowering. Wildlife includes brown bears,

lynx (risin Croatian, after which the park isnamed), wolves, wild cats, wild boar, deer,chamois and 500 species of butterfly.

Most of the park is unspoiled virgin forest,with only a few settlements. The largest isCrni Lug at the parks edge where youll findthepark information office(%836 133;h9am-4pmMon-Fri, to 6pm Sat & Sun)in the parks only hotel,Pension Risnjak (%836 133; Bijela Vodica 48, Crni Lug; dlow-high 240-260KN;p). The park entrance (adult/

concession 30/15KN) is a few hundred metres be-hind thepension(guest house).The best way to discover the park is to walk

the Leska Path, a delightful 4.5km trail thatbegins at the parks entrance. Its an easy andshady walk punctuated by several dozen ex-planatory panels (in English) telling you allabout the parks history, topography, geol-ogy, flora and fauna. Youll pass crystal-clearstreams, forests of tall fir trees, bizarre rock

formations, a feeding station for the deer, anda mountain hut with a picnic table.Theres no public transport to the park. To

get there by car, exit the main ZagrebRijekamotorway at Delnice and follow the signs toCrni Lug.

LOINJ & CRES ISLANDSSeparated by only an 11m-wide canal, thesetwo serpentine islands in the Kvarner archi-pelago are often treated as a single entity.Although their topography is different, theislands identities are blurred by a shared his-tory and close transportation links. On Loinj(Lussino in Italian), the fishing villages of MaliLoinj and Veli Loinj attract tourist hordesin summer, especially from Italy. The moredeserted Cres (Crepsa in Italian) has remote

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camping grounds and pristine beaches, es-

pecially outside Cres Town, and a handfulof medieval hilltop villages. Both islands arecriss-crossed by hiking and biking trails.

HistoryExcavations indicate that a prehistoric culturespread out over both islands from the StoneAge to the Bronze Age. The ancient Greekscalled the islands the Apsyrtides, which werein turn conquered by the Romans, then put

under Byzantine rule and settled by Slavictribes in the 6th and 7th centuries.The islands subsequently came under

Venetian rule, followed by that of theCroatian-Hungarian kings, then back to theVenetians. By the time Venice fell in 1797,Veli Loinj and Mali Loinj had become im-portant maritime centres, while Cres devoteditself to wine and olive production. Duringthe 19th century, shipbuilding flourished in

Loinj, but with the advent of steamships it

was replaced by health tourism as a majorindustry. Meanwhile, Cres had its own prob-lems in the form of a phylloxera epidemic thatwiped out its vineyards. Both islands werepoor when they were annexed to Italy as partof the 1920 Treaty of Rapallo. They becamepart of Yugoslavia in 1945 and, most recently,Croatia in 1991.

Today, apart from a small shipyard inNerezine in north Loinj and some olive cul-

tivation, sheep farming and fishing on Cres,the main activity on both islands is tourism.

Getting There & AwayBOAT

The main maritime port of entry for the is-lands is Mali Loinj, which is connected toRijeka, Pula, Zadar, Venice and Koper inthe summer. Jadrolinija (see p134) runs adaily ferry between Zadar and Mali Loinj

UKA NATURE PARK

One of Croatias best-kept nature secrets, this 160-sq-km park lies just 30 minutes from Lovran

on the Opatija Riviera. Comprised of the Uka mountain massif and the adjacent iarija plateau,

its officially split between Kvarner and Istria. Its highest peak is Vojak (1401m), which, on a clear

day, affords views of the Italian Alps and the Bay of Trieste.

Much of the area is covered by beech forests but there are also sweet chestnut trees, oaks

and hornbeam. Sheep peacefully graze on alpine meadows, griffon vultures and golden eagles

fly overhead, brown bears roam and endemic bellflowers blossom.

The enthusiastic staff at the park office(%293 753; www.pp-ucka.hr; Liganj 42;h8am-4pm Mon-Fri)in Lovran have info on all the activities listed following. The office also has two seasonal info points:

one at Poklon (h9am-7pm mid-Junmid-Sep) and one at Vojak (h9am-7pm mid-Junmid-Sep).Dont miss Mala Uka, a half-abandoned village at over 995m above sea level, where a few

shepherds live from May to October. You can buy delicious sheeps cheese from the house with

green windows by the stream at the villages end. Just ask for sir (cheese).

Organised activities in the park include mountain biking and trekking on 150km of trails, in-corporating two marked educational paths, Slap and Vela Draga. Pick up a map for 55KN from

the park office or the tourist office in Opatija (p126). Theres also free-climbing in the Vela Draga

canyon, horseback riding (around 80KN per hour) and bird-watching. Paragliding and hang-

gliding can be organised through Homo Volans Free Flying Club (www.homo-volans.hr) in Opatija.The park has several sleeping options but the standout is Uka Lodge (%091 762 2027; www

.uckalodge.com; d 360KN), a traditional house at 600m above sea level, deep in the woods. The Englishowners, Frank and Alice, had it beautifully converted into an eco-B&B. The electricity comes from

solar panels, the rainwater is filtered and theres a natural sewage treatment plant. There are two

charming rooms with shared bathroom, and the breakfast is made of local ingredients (jam from

forest fruits and sheeps cheese from the neighbours). Frank will take you out in his 4WD uponrequest and theyll arrange any tour in the area.

Another highlight is Dopolavoro(%299 641; www.dopolavoro.hr; Uka 9; mains from 40KN;hclosedMon), which serves excellent game dishes featuring deer, wild boar and bear prepared under

peka (domed baking lids). Bikes are available for rent beside the restaurant (20/90KN per hour/

day), and theres a herbalist across the street who sells curative teas and creams made from

local plants.

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(47KN, seven hours) from June throughSeptember. In July and August, it also runsa daily catamaran from Mali Loinj to Cres(28KN, 2 hours) and Rijeka (40KN, fourhours). There is also an hourly Jadrolinija

car ferry from Brestova in Istria to Porozinaat the tip of Cres (passenger/car 17/113KN,20 minutes).

In July and August, Venezia Lines(%052-422896; www.venezialines.com)runs catamarans fromVenice to Mali Loinj via Pula twice weekly(465KN, five hours). Split Tours(%021-352 533;www.splittours.hr)runs a catamaran service fromZadar to Pula via Mali Loinj five times weeklyduring July and August (50KN, two hours);

in June and September, the service is reducedto twice weekly.

BUS

All buses travelling to and from the islandsoriginate in Veli Loinj and stop in MaliLoinj before continuing to Cres and themainland. There are six to nine daily busesfrom Veli Loinj to Cres Town (50KN, 1hours); four daily to Merag (62KN, two

hours) and Valbiska on Krk (99KN, 2hours); three per day to Porozina on Cres(82KN, 2 hours) and Brestova in Istria(90KN, three hours); five daily buses to Rijeka(146KN, 4 hours); three to Zagreb (260KNto 275KN, seven hours); and one daily toLjubljana (295KN, 6 hours) in Slovenia.

LOINJ ISLANDThe more populated and touristy of the

twin islands, the 31km-long Loinj also hasa more indented coastline than Cres, espe-cially in the south. The towns of Mali Loinjand Veli Loinj in the southeast are ringedby natural pine forests interspersed with tallAleppo pines planted in the 19th century.The vegetation on the island is particularlylush and varied, with 1100 plant species,230 medicinal herbs and some atypicalgrowths such as lemon, banana, cedar and

eucalyptus brought from exotic lands bysea captains.The island is known for its dolphin

population; in fact, its waters are the firstprotected marine area for dolphins in theentire Mediterranean. The Blue WorldNGO (p136) based in Mali Loinj has donemuch to protect these graceful sea creatureswith an educational centre and variousactivities.To Zadar

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LOINJ & CRES ISLANDS0 10 km0 6 miles

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Mali Loinjpop 6500Mali Loinj sits at the foot of a protectedV-shaped harbour on the southeast coast ofLoinj. Vestiges of its 19th-century prosperitycan still be seen in the stately sea captainshouses that line up along the seafront ofthe pretty old town. Even with the summertourist commotion, this ancient quarter still

retains the charm of a small Mediterraneantown. Thats partly due to the fact that mostlarge hotels sit out of town, leading up fromthe harbour to Sunana Uvala in the southand ikat in the southwest.

This leafy area started to flourish in the late19th century, when the wealthy Vienna andBudapest elite, who gravitated to the healthyair of Mali Loinj, started building villas andluxurious hotels aroundikat. Some of these

grand residences remain, but most of the cur-rent hotels are modern developments sur-rounded by pine forests that blanket the coveand its fantastic beaches.

More relaxed to visit in spring and autumn,even in the hectic summer months Mali Loinjcan serve as a good base for excursions aroundLoinj and Cres or to the small islands ofSusak, Ilovik and Unije nearby.

ORIENTATIONThe Jadrolinija ferry dock for all large boatsis in the northeastern part of town, a 500mwalk along the harbour from the town centre;catamarans stop a few metres closer to town.The bus station is further down, on the edgeof the seafront.

Most shops, travel agencies and cafs areon Riva Loinjskih Kapetana, which runsalong the harbour to Trg Republike Hrvatske

and its fountain. When you cross over to theother end of the harbour, there are roadsto the hotels and beaches of Sunana Uvalaand ikat.

INFORMATION

With the towns long history of tourism, thereis no shortage of travel agencies to arrangeprivate accommodation, handle air tickets,

change money and book excursions.Cappelli (%231 582; www.cappelli-tourist.hr; Kadinbb;h9am-9pm) Books private accommodation on Cresand Loinj and sells tickets for Venezia Lines.Erste Banka(Riva Loinjskih Kapetana 4) Theres anATM outside.Garderoba (%231 110; Riva Loinjskih Kapetana 19;h6am-10pm) Left-luggage facilities (10KN per piece).Hospital(%231 824; Dinka Kozulia 1)Internet Point F1 (%231 129; Giuseppe Garibaldi 39;

per hr 25KN;h8am-1pm & 5-10pm) Internet access.Manora Loinj (%520 100; www.manora-losinj.hr;Priko 29;h8.30am-9pm Mon-Sat, 9am-1pm & 6-9pmSun) Friendly agency with a full gamut of services.Post office(Vladimira Gortana 4;h8am-9pm Mon-Fri,to noon Sat)Tourist office(%231 884; www.tz-malilosinj.hr; RivaLoinjskih Kapetana 29;h8am-8pm Mon-Sat, 9am-1pmSun Jun-Sep, 8am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat Oct-May)This treasure trove of useful information distributes spiffy

brochures and maps of hiking trails on the two islands.

SIGHTS

The main attraction of Mali Loinj is the at-tractive port and the greenery of the surround-ing hills tumbling into the sea. There are a fewmonuments that recall the islands history. Inthe graveyard around the 15th-century Churchof St Martinare the tombstones of the townsformer inhabitants sailors, fortune-seekers

CYCLING THE KVARNER REGION

An increasingly popular cycling destination, Kvarner offers a variety of options for biking enthu-

siasts, from gentle rides to heart-pumping climbs on steep island roads. There are several trails

around Opatija; two easier paths depart from Mt Kastav (360m), while a challenging 4-hour

adventure goes from Lovran to Uka Nature Park (p129). Loinj offers a moderately difficult

2-hour route that starts and ends in Mali Loinj. On Krk, a leisurely two-hour ride from Krk

Town shows you meadows, fields and hamlets of the little-visited islands interior. A biking route

from Rab Town on Rab explores the virgin forests of the Kalifront Peninsula. On Cres, a 50km

trail takes you from the marina at Cres Town past the medieval hilltop village of Lubenice ( p140)

and the seaside gem of Valun (p140).

For details on these itineraries, ask at any tourist office for theKvarner by Bicyclebrochure, which

outlines 19 routes across the region. A great source of info is www.pedala.hr, which focuses on

trails mainly around Zagreb but also has good practical info about biking in Croatia.

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from Italy and Austria, Italian royalty and19th-century Austrian children sent here inthe hopes that the mild climate would curetheir tuberculosis or respiratory problems.

In the town centre, peek into the parishChurch of the Nativity of the Virgin(upna Crkva

Male Gospe) either before or after SundayMass at 10am. Inside are some notable art-works, including a painting of the Nativityof the Blessed Virgin by an 18th-centuryVenetian artist and relics of St Romulus.

Mali Loinjs arts scene centres on the artcollections (Umjetnike Zbirke;%233 892; VladimiraGortana 35; admission 10/5KN;h10am-1pm & 7-10pmTue-Sun)of the Mihiiand Piperata families.There are modern Croatian works, as well

as the old masters with emphasis on Italian,French and Dutch painting.For a whiff of enchanting Adriatic smells,

head to the Garden of Fine Scents(Miomirisni OtokiVrt;%233 638; Brae Vidulibb; admission free;h10am-noon & 6-9pm Jul & Aug, 10am-noon Sep-Jun), just outof town. This fragrant paradise has over 250native plant varieties plus 100 exotic species,all framed with gromae, traditional stonefences. There are special events on summer

Wednesday nights, from traditional drinktastings to guest lectures.

The towns unofficial icon is the antiquestatue of Apoksiomen, found on the sea bednear Loinj in 1999. At 192m, this 2000-year-old bronze athlete is one of few such well-

preserved pieces in the world. After years ofmeticulous restoration, the statue is expectedto move into its very own exhibition spaceinside Mali Loinjs restored Kvarner Palacesome time in the future; contact the touristoffice to find out whether the statue is ondisplay yet.

ACTIVITIES

Sunana Uvala offers the best pebble beaches,

excellent for swimming. With its long, narrowpebble beach and great wind exposure, ikatis the spot for windsurfing. You can take acourse at the Windsurfing School (%231 222)orat Sunbird (%091 792 5926; www.sunbird.de), nearHotel Bellevue. Sunbird also offers courses incat-sailing and rents mountain bikes (75KNper day).

Cyclingand hikinghave become increasinglypopular on Loinj, and these activities are

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INFORMATION

SanMar.................................... B3Jadrolinija Office...................... C2Jadrolinija Dock........................ B2Bus Station............................... B2

Marina..................................... B2Katakomba.............................. C3

Supermarket............................ C2Porto....................................... D3Pizzeria Draga.......................... D3Diana....................................... A3Corrado................................... D3Barakuda.................................. B3

Villa Hortensia......................... A3Mare Mare Suites.................... C2Hotel Bellevue.......................... A3Guest House Helios.................. A3

Windsurfing School................. A3Sunbird.................................... A3Diver Sport Center................... A3 Virgin.................................. C3Church of the Nativity of theChurch of St Martin................. D3Art Collections........................... C3

Tourist Office............................. C2Post Office................................. C3Manora Loinj............................ B3Internet Point F1........................ C3Hospital...................................... B3Garderoba................................. C2

Erste Banka................................ C3Cappelli...................................... B1

MALI LOINJ 0 400 m0 0.2 miles

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much promoted by the local tourist board.Pick up the free brochure Promenades &Footpaths,with maps of 220km of trails thatcriss-cross the five islands of the archipel-ago (Loinj, Cres, Ilovik, Susak and Unije).

Options include climbing up to the highestpeak of Televrina (588m) or a steep hike toSveti Nikola (557m) for the nicest views.

The waters surrounding Loinj offer gooddiving. Who knows, you may uncover the nextApoksiomen! Theres a wreck dating from1917, a large, relatively shallow cave suitablefor beginners and the wonderful MargaritaReef off the island of Susak. The main diveoperation is Diver Sport Center (%233 900; www

.diver.hr)onikat, which offers courses and divepackages from 320KN.

SLEEPING

Mali Loinj offers a range of accommoda-tion options. The travel agencies listed underInformation (p131) find rooms and apart-ments around Mali Loinj, although thereslittle available in the town itself. The touristoffice has a detailed brochure with listings

of private accommodation. Expect to paybetween 90KN and 140KN per person for aroom in the high season. Two-person apart-ments start at 320KN. In summer, youre likelyto pay a penalty for a stay under four nights.

Most hotels are in the pine forest on the hillover in ikat, with some in Sunana Uvala.The majority falls under the umbrella of LoinjHotels & Villas (www.losinj-hotels.com) . Most of thesepackage resorts are bland and nearly indistin-

guishable tourist developments, despite recentfacelifts and renovations. The leafy beachsidelocation is the main draw of staying here.Most hotels close between November andEaster; in summer, they impose a surchargefor stays under three or four nights.

BudgetCampingikat(%232 125; www.camps-cres-losinj.com;Draica 1, ikat bb; per adult/site 62/47KN;hAprmid-Oct)

Near a concrete beach, this large campingground has a full spectrum of facilities.Camping Village Poljana (%231 726; www.poljana

.hr; Poljana bb; per site low-high 87-166KN) Surroundedby a pine forest, this spiffy spot has perks suchas wireless internet (for a fee), a restaurantand a supermarket.

Guest House Helios (%232 124; www.losinj-hotels.com; ikat bb; s low-high 158-270KN, d 315-540KN;p)Bland and screaming for a renovation, but

boasting a brilliant location amid greenery,and just steps from the beaches.

MidrangeHotel Vespera (%231 304; www.losinj-hotels.com;

Sunana Uvala bb; s low-high 233-420KN, d 360-735KN;pi)Tennis courts, volleyball, hiking pathsand water sports nearby make this three-stara great option for families and active types.Its a stones throw from a pretty beach inSunana Uvala.

Hotel Bellevue (%231 222; www.losinj-hotels.com;ikat bb; s low-high 233-420KN, d 390-765KN;pis)The pine forest location, wellness centre andrefurbished rooms can help you forget the

package tour groups that frequent this place.The lower priced annexe, Villa Hortensia (sin-gle low-high season 132KN to 315KN; double263KN to 630KN), is right on the beach.

Top EndMare Mare Suites (%232 010; www.mare-mare.com; RivaLoinjskih Kapetana 36; s low-high 600-900KN, d 750-1050KN;pnai)This chic little B&B occupies ahistoric townhouse on the seafront. No two

rooms or suites are alike but all have sea vistasand stylish decor. Theres a jacuzzi terrace, an la carte pillow service, and free wireless inter-net, bikes and beach transfers in summer.

Villa Favorita (%520 640; www.villafavorita.hr;Sunana Uvala; d low-high 660-1150KN;pais)Set in an intimate Habsburg mansion, theeight deluxe rooms here are named after flow-ers; four face the sea. Theres a sauna, massageand a seawater pool in a well-kept garden. The

annexe, Villa Jelena (single low-high season330KN to 575KN; double 610KN to 850KN),has slightly smaller rooms with no air-con.

EATING

Catering to the tremendous influx of Italiantourists in summer has lent the islands cui-sine a decidedly Italian flavour. As on manyislands, there is not a wide variety in priceor quality and the menus tend to be more

or less the same, with an accent on seafood,grilled fish, pasta and risotto. Youll gener-ally eat better at places away from the mainharbour area in the old town.

Pizzeria Draga (%231 132; Brae Ivana i StjepanaVidulia 77; pizzas from 35KN)The owner has receivedmany awards for the pizzas that come outof the brick oven at this friendly place. Nowonder the terrace gets packed with localsand tourists in summer.

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Corrado(%232 487; Svete Marije 1; mains from 50KN)No farmed seafood is served at this konobawith a covered terrace, owned by a deep-seafisher. The oven-baked fish with veggies isdelicious, as is the peasant specialty, verze

na pofrih,a squid and kale stew (order twohours ahead).oPorto (%231 956; Sveti Martin 35; mains

from 60KN)A fish fillet with sea urchins is thesignature dish at this lovely little spot on asmall quiet bay near the Church of St Martin.Slightly off the tourist track, its covered ter-race by the sea doesnt get too crowded.

Diana (%232 055; ikat bb; mains from 65KN)Partof a small four-star hotel complex in ikat,

this restaurant is particularly notable for itscypress-tree-shaded terrace on the sea andits lamb medallions with asparagus. The fishdishes are good, too.

Barakuda (%233 309; Priko 31; mains from 70KN)The charcoal-grilled seafood and the nauti-cally themed decor make this harbour res-taurant stand out. However, tourist crowdscan detract from your eating pleasure insummer months.

Self-caterers can head to the large super-market on Trg Zagazinjine, just north of theharbours edge.

ENTERTAINMENT

The terraces of caf-bars along the harbourget packed with tourists and locals in thesummer months. Riva Loinjskih Kapetanaand Ulica Vladimira Gortana are chock-a-block with choices, although theyre not

widely varied. For live music and a fun at-mosphere, head to the towns most popularspot, Katakomba (Del Conte Giovanni 1), in an al-leyway on the other side of the harbour. Toparty on the water, check out Marina (Velopinbb), a floating cocktail bar docked on thesouthwest side of the harbour, with DJs andlive music on summer nights.

GETTING THERE & AWAY

There are nine buses a day between MaliLoinj and Veli Loinj (15KN, 10 minutes).For other bus and boat connections, see p129.The Jadrolinija (%231 765; www.jadrolinija.hr; RivaLoinjskih Kapetana 22) office has ferry informa-tion and tickets.

GETTING AROUND

From late April to October there is an hourlyshuttle bus (10KN) that runs from the centre

of town to the hotels in Sunana Uvala andikat, till 11pm.

You can zip around the island on a scooter,available at SanMar (%/fax 233 571; www.sanmar.hr; Priko 24; per day 200KN;h8.30am-2.30pm & 6-10pm),

which also rents bikes (80KN per day).

Islands Around Mali LoinjThe nearby car-free islands of Susak, Ilovikand Unije are the most popular day trips fromMali Loinj. Tiny Susak (population 188; area3.8 sq km) is unique for the thick layer of finesand that blankets the underlying limestoneand creates delightful beaches. Its the islandsunusual culture that makes it particularly in-

teresting. Islanders speak their own dialect,which is nearly incomprehensible to otherCroats. On feast days and at weddings, youcan see the local women outfitted in tradi-tional multicoloured skirts and red leggings.When you see the old stone houses on theisland, consider that each stone had to bebrought over from Mali Loinj and carried byhand to its destination. No wonder the islandhas steadily lost its population, with many of

its citizens settling in Hoboken, New Jersey.In contrast to flat Susak, Ilovik(population145; area 5.8 sq km) is a hilly island knownfor its profusion of flowers. Overgrowingwith oleanders, roses and eucalyptus trees, itspopular with boaters and has some secludedswimming coves.

The largest of the islands in the Loinj ar-chipelago, Unije(population 273; area 18 sqkm) has an undulating landscape that abounds

in Mediterranean shrubs, pebble beaches andnumerous coves and inlets. The islands onlysettlement is a picturesque fishing village ofgabled stone houses.

Many travel agencies sell excursions toSusak, Ilovik and Unije but its easy enoughto get there on your own. Jadrolinija makesa daily summer circuit from Mali Loinj toSusak (13KN, 2 hours) and Ilovik (13KN,one hour), with a boat departing in the morn-

ing (some days at the crack of dawn) and onereturning in late afternoon. You can do a daytrip to Unije (13KN, 1 hours) any day butMonday or Wednesday. Note that the boatschedule for all islands is tricky on Sundays.

Veli LoinjDespite the name (in Croatian, velimeansbig and mali means small), Veli Loinj issmaller, more languid and somewhat less

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crowded than Mali Loinj, only 4km to thenorthwest. Its also managed to retain moreof its fishing-village character. Pastel-colouredbaroque houses cluster around a narrow baythat protrudes like a thumb into the islands

southeastern coastline. Narrow cobblestonealleyways lead uphill from the central squarepast foliage-buried cottages to the rocky coast.The absence of cars in the centre is refreshing,but the presence of summer tourist hordestakes away from the pleasure of walking thetraffic-free streets.

Like its neighbour, Veli Loinj had its shareof rich sea captains who built villas and sur-rounded them with gardens of exotic plants

they brought back from afar. You can glimpsethese villas on a walk up the steep streets. Seacaptains also furnished the churches in town,most notably St Anthonys on the harbour.

ORIENTATION

The bus station is on a hill at the entranceto town, by the main parking lot. VladimiraNazora takes you down to the harbour, whichis the town centre. The bank, post offices,

tourist agencies and a number of cafs areon Obala Marala Tita, which wraps aroundthe bay. A coastal route leads north up tothe Hotel Punta beach and east to the bay ofRovenska, a 10-minute walk away.

INFORMATION

Erste Banka (Obala Marala Tita) Has a foreign-exchangecounter. There are a few other ATMs in town.Post office(Obala Marala Tita 33;h8am-9pm

Mon-Fri, to noon Sat)Turist (%236 256; www.island-losinj.com; ObalaMarala Tita 17;h8am-2pm & 5-9pm summer, shorterhr rest of year) Finds private accommodation, changesmoney, rents bikes (50KN per six hours) and scooters (80KNper hour) and offers excursions to Susak and Ilovik (115KN).Val (%/fax 236 352; www.val-losinj.hr; VladimiraNazora 29;h9am-8pm Jul & Aug) In addition to bookingprivate accommodation, this travel agency has internetaccess (30KN per hour).

SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

You cant miss the tall bell tower of theChurch of St Anthony the Hermit (Crkva SvetogAntuna) on the right side of the harbour.Built in baroque style in 1774, thanks towealthy sea captains it is elaborately deckedout with marble altars, a rich collection ofItalian paintings, a pipe organ and relics ofSt Gregory. Its only open for Sunday Mass

but you can catch a glimpse of the interiorthrough a metal gate.

The striking tower(kula; Katel 2)in the mazeof streets set back from the harbour was builtby the Venetians in 1455 to defend the town

from the notorious Uskoks (a communityof pirates that once lived in Senj). It nowcontains a small museum & gallery(%236 594;admission 10KN;h10am-1pm & 7-10pm Tue-Sun mid-Junmid-Sep, 10am-1pm Tue-Sat mid-SepOct & Aprmid-Jun), which centres on the islands maritimehistory, explaining it with English captions.

The towns most enlightening attractionis the LoinjMarine Education Centre(%236 406;Katel 24; adult/student 10/7KN;h9am-1pm & 6-10pm

Jul & Aug, 9am-1pm & 6-8pm Jun & Sep, shorter hr rest ofyear), dedicated to sensitising visitors to thelocal marine life, particularly its endangeredpopulation of bottlenose dolphins. The centreis a project of Blue World (see p136).

Stop by Ultramarin art gallery (%236 117; www.ultramarin.hr; Obala Marala Tita 7;h9am-10pm Jun-Aug),signposted from the harbour. You can peekinside this family-run atelier where a wifeand husband make colourful decorative boats,

vases and candleholders out of driftwood col-lected from the island.

SLEEPING

Both Val and Turist travel agencies (left) willfind private accommodation for about thesame price as in Mali Loinj. Pension Saturnon the harbour is a good choice; you can bookthrough Val. At the time of writing, a newhostel was in the works, which should be up

and running shortly.Youth Hostel (%236 234; www.hfhs.hr; Kaciol 4;dm low-high 110-135KN;hJun-Oct;i) You canbunk for peanuts in the decently clean andcomfy rooms of this slightly rundown 1884Habsburg villa in the middle of a shady pineforest. Book in advance, as school groupssometimes take over.

Hotel Punta (%662 000; www.losinj-hotels.com;s low-high 285-487KN, d 420-827KN;pis)Theres

not much character at this standard packageresort on a hill, but the balconied rooms areadequate, and theres easy access to the beachand a full array of facilities, including a smallwellness centre.

EATING

The restaurants along the harbour serve ge-neric seafood and meat dishes. The two spotsfollowing are worth sampling.

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Ribarska Koliba (%236 235; Obala Marala Tita 1;mains from 55KN)Just around the corner from StAnthonys church, this pleasant place serveslamb and suckling pig on a spit, as well asgood buzara (scampi and mussel stew) on asea-facing terrace.

oBora Bar (%867 544; www.borabar.com;Rovenska Bay 3; mains from 70KN) Truffle speciali-ties conjured up by Italian-born chef MarkoSasso are reason enough to come to Veli.Delicacies include truffle-topped saffron ri-sotto andpanna cotta(a creamy Italian des-sert) with truffle honey. On scenic RovenskaBay, its cheerful, colourful and friendly, withwireless internet and a book exchange. Alldishes many without the fungus, too are

made from scratch and with love, so dontmind a longish wait.


There are nine buses a day between Veli Loinjand Mali Loinj (15KN, 10 minutes).

CRES ISLANDStretching 68km from tip to tip, Cres is longer,less populated and more undeveloped than

Loinj. On this wild island, you can wanderaround primeval forests, swim in hiddencoves, sample some of Croatias most deli-cious lamb, and visit ageing hilltop towns.

The northern half of the island, known asTramuntana, is covered with dense oak, horn-

beam, elk and chestnut forests. Its also hometo the protected griffon vulture (see p138) inthe hilltop village of Beli, on the eastern coast.The 6km-long Vrana Lake (Vransko Jezero) inthe centre of the island, with its bottom about60m below sea level, is the source of drink-ing water for both islands. The main seasidesettlements lie on the western shore of Cres,while the mountainous interior southwest ofValun features the astounding medieval town

of Lubenice (see p140).

Cres Townpop 2234Wandering around sun-drenched Cres Town,with old ladies chattering away in Italian, youmay wonder if youve accidentally strayedacross the border to Italy. Pastel-colouredterrace houses and Venetian mansions hugthe medieval harbour, Mandra, which is

BLUE WORLD

The Blue World Institute of Marine Research & Conservation (%236 406; www.blue-world.org;Katel 24) is a Veli Loinjbased NGO founded in 1999 to promote environmental awareness inthe LoinjCres archipelago, Croatia and the Adriatic. It raises public awareness through lectures,

media presentations and the organisation of Dolphin Day in Veli Loinj on the first Saturday of

August, which sees photography exhibitions, street performances, treasure hunts and childrens

competitions in drawing and painting.

As part of the Adriatic Dolphin Project, Blue World studies bottlenose dolphins that frequent

the LoinjCres area. Each dolphin is named and catalogued by photos taken of the natural marks

that can be seen on their dorsal fin. Since the community of resident bottlenose dolphins in the

LoinjCres archipelago has dropped by a dramatic 40% in the last 15 years only about 100 dol-

phins frequent the area today Blue World has managed to establish the Loinj Dolphin Reserve,

the first marine protected area in the Mediterranean dedicated to bottlenose dolphins.

We stole a few minutes with Peter Mackelworth, Conservation Director of Blue World. When

asked about the steady drop of dolphin numbers in these waters, Peter explained: Overfishingand the busy summer season bring a lot of disturbing noise and boat traffic. Dolphins leave

for calmer waters to the north and south in the summer months, but each year it takes them

a little longer to return.

We asked Peter what people can do. For now, visit the centre and get informed, he said.

Want to do more? You can adopt a dolphin, for only 150KN! By doing so, you are supporting

the activities of the Adriatic Dolphin Project. You even get a personalised adoption certificate

and a photo of your chosen dolphin. At the time of writing, four friendly dolphins were up for

adoption Sonja, Debbie, Meta and Mush.

If you want to do something even more active, you can join an eco-volunteer holiday. Blue

World offers these from June through September 12-day programs start at 700 per personwith accommodation, food, lectures and activities.

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jam-packed with small fishing boats. Thetown is popular with Italian boaters, whocome here in droves come summer.

The Italian influence dates from the 15th-century Venetians who relocated their head-

quarters to Cres Town after Osor fell victimto plague and pestilence. Public buildingsand patricians palaces were built along theharbour and a town wall added in the 16thcentury. As you stroll along the seaside prom-enade and the maze of old town streets, youllnotice reminders of Italian rule, includingcoats of arms of powerful Venetian familiesand Renaissance loggias.

ORIENTATIONThe bus stop (there is no left-luggage office)is on the southeastern side of the harbournext to the tourist office and bank. The oldtown stretches from the harbour prom-enade, Riva Creskih Kapetana, inland toetalite 20 Travnja. Most of the monumentsand churches are concentrated within thisarea. If you continue around the harbour toLungomare Sveti Mikule, after about 1km

youll reach the rocky beaches around HotelKimen and Autocamp Kovaine.

INFORMATION

Autotrans (%572 050; www.autotrans-turizam.com;Zazid 4;h7am-9pm Jun-Aug, 8am-noon & 5.30-7.30pmMon-Sat Sep-May)Arranges private accommodation, bikerental (20KN per hour), excursions and bus tickets.Cresanka (%571 161; www.cresanka.hr; Cons 11;h7.30am-10pm Jul & Aug, 7.30am-9pm Jun & Sep,

7.30am-noon & 3.30-8pm Oct-May)Books private accom-modation and changes money.Erste Banka(Cons 8) Changes money. Theres anotherATM at Riva Creskih Kapetana 3.Post office(Cons 3;h7.30am-7pm Mon-Fri, to 1pm Sat)Tourist Agency Croatia(%573 053; www.cres-travel.com; Melin 2/33;h8am-9pm summer, shorter hr rest ofyear) Can arrange private accommodation and has internetaccess (1KN per minute).Tourist office (%571 535; www.tzg-cres.hr; Cons 10;

h8am-8pm Mon-Sat, 9am-1pm Sun Jul & Aug, 8am-2pm Mon-Fri Sep-Jun) Has maps and brochures.

SIGHTS

At the end of Riva Creskih Kapetana is TrgFrane Petria with the graceful 16th-centurymunicipal loggia, the scene of public announce-ments, financial transactions and festivalsunder Venetian rule. Its now the site of amorning fruit and vegetable market.

Behind the loggia is the 16th-century gatethat leads to St Mary of the Snow Church(Sv MarijeSnjene; Pod Urom;hMass only). The facade is nota-ble for the Renaissance portal with a relief ofthe Virgin and Child. Its worth checking out

the serene interior before or after Mass for thecarved wooden piet from the 15th century(now under protective glass) at the left altar.

Stop by Ruta(%571 835; www.ruta-cres.hr; Zazid 4A;hsporadic or by appointment), a local collective thatpromotes the islands cultural and ecologicalidentity by preserving old traditions such asweaving and felting of sheep wool. Using thediscarded wool of the indigenous Pramenkasheep, the craftspeople make wonderful slip-

pers, hats, handbags and clothes. You can seethe workshop, learn about felting or even tryit yourself (three-hour workshops are avail-able for 150KN).

ACTIVITIES

For the best beaches, head to the area aroundHotel Kimen. Diving is offered by DivingCres (%/fax 571 706; www.divingcres.de, in German) inAutocamp Kovaine.Cres-Insula Activa(%091

738 9490; www.cres-activa.hr, in Croatian) is an ecologi-cally minded association that can organisebiking, climbing and kite-surfing trips. Hikinghas become increasingly popular on Cresand Loinj; the tourist office (left) distrib-utes a map of footpaths and trails aroundthe island.

SLEEPING

All the agencies listed under Information

(left) can find private rooms. Prices varygreatly according to season (August being thepeak), comfort level and location (in the oldtown or on the outskirts). Rooms with sharedbathroom start from 175KN per person in asingle; doubles start at 235KN. Two-personapartments go for about 365KN.

Autocamp Kovaine (%573 150; www.camp-kovacine.com; Melin 1/20; per person low-high 34-70KN;hEastermid-Oct)Theres no tent charge at this

18-hectare camping ground about 1km south-west of town. There are solar-powered bathfacilities, a restaurant and activities galore,including basketball, volleyball and diving.

Kovaine Rooms (%573 150; www.camp-kovacine.com; Melin 1/20; s low-high 225-348KN, d 406-624KN;a)Part of Autocamp Kovaine, this smallbuilding has 13 efficient en suite rooms withphones, satellite TV and even air-con. Somefeature balconies with views over Valun Bay.

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L O I N J & C R E S I S L A N D S C r e s I s l a n d Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels

Hotel Kimen(%573 305; www.hotel-kimen.com; Melin1/16; s low-high 240-485KN, d 334-610KN;pai) Theshady pine forest location, about 1km fromthe centre, and the beaches are the highlightof this otherwise unremarkable hotel. The re-

cently touched-up rooms all have balconies.Theres also an older annexe (single low-high174KN to 304KN; double 290KN to 507KN).

EATING

Luna Rossa(%572 207; Palada 4b; pizzas from 18KN, mainsfrom 32KN)This small Italian spot on the har-bour churns out excellent pizza and pasta ona small terrace. The risottos and the gnocchiare also yummy.

oBukaleta (%571 606; Loznati bb, Loznati;mains from 40KN)Dont miss the famous Creslamb, deliciously prepared at this longstand-ing family restaurant in the hamlet of Loznati,5km from Cres Town. Start with the sheepricotta and continue with the herb-fed lamb(from 80KN) breaded, grilled or from thespit. Its worth the taxi ride.

Santa Lucia (%573 222; Lungomare Sveti Mikule4; mains from 40KN) Dont be turned off by the

fancy look of this good-value restaurant on

the coastal promenade towards Hotel Kimen.Sit on the terrace by the sea and savour thespeciality salty oven-baked fish.

Restaurant Riva(%571 107; Riva Creskih Kapetana 13;mains from 50KN)The fish is prepared with care

and the terrace on the harbour is a great placeto watch the sun disappear over the pastel-coloured townhouses across the way. Orderthe barbecued scampi.

Thesupermarket(Trg Frane Petria)can be foundright across from the loggia.


There are three buses a day to Opatija (61KN,two hours) and five to Rijeka (84KN, 2

hours). Three daily buses go to Porozina(29KN, one hour) and Brestova in Istria (withferry ticket 66KN, 1 hours).

For more information on buses betweenCres and Mali and Veli Loinj, see p130.

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Croatia 5 Kvarner