Croatia 5 Hrvatsko Zagorje

8/10/2019 Croatia 5 Hrvatsko Zagorje

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Despite its proximity to Zagreb, the bucolic region of Hrvatsko Zagorje in the countrys north

receives few tourists even at the height of the summer season. This is especially surpris-

ing given that it is blissfully crowd-free (slightly less so on weekends, when day-tripping

families from Zagreb storm the area), and delightful villages, medieval castles and thermal

springs speckle its green rolling hills. These leafy landscapes with Austrian-influenced food

and architecture (and the same prices year-round) present a nice alternative to the busy

Mediterranean south and offer a good escape from the summer heat.

The Zagorje region (as its commonly known) begins north of Mt Medvednica, near Zagreb,

and extends west to the Slovenian border, and as far north as Varadin, the areas largest city.

With its surface largely covered with forests mostly beech, oak, chestnut and fir this agri-

cultural zone also features endless vineyards, gardens, orchards, and corn and wheat fields.

Whether you want to feast on hearty Zagorje cuisine at rustic restaurants, dip into the hot

springs at Varadinske or Krapinske Toplice, get a taster of village life at Staro Selo Museum

in Kumrovec or tour ancient castles, youre in for an offbeat treat.

Many of the regions inhabitants speak a local dialect called Kajkavski, named after their word

for what? (kaj?) After Croatian or Kajkavski, the second language is likely to be German; few

speak English and those who do will mostly be from younger generations. Although the cities

and attractions are linked to Zagreb by bus and train, the connections are sporadic so it helps

to have your own wheels to fully appreciate the area. Renting a car for a day or two and setting

off along its twisting country roads is the best way to take in Zagorjes rustic charms.

Hrvatsko Zagorje

TELEPHONE CODE: 042, 049

HIGHLIGHTS

Admiring the immaculately preserved

baroque architecture of Varadin(opposite)

Experiencing the life of Croatian nobility at

Trakoan Castle (p102)

Getting an insight into traditional village life

at Staro Selo Museum(p104) in Kumrovec

Sampling Croatian culinary specialities

at Vuglec Breg (p103) near KrapinskeToplice

Learning about our Neanderthal ancestors at

the Museum of Evolution (p103) in Krapina

Catching the international Tabor FilmFestival(p104) in Veliki Tabor

Kumrovec

TaborVeliki

Krapina

Krapinske Toplice

Trakoan Castle

Varadin

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VARADIN%042 / pop 49,000Varadin, 81km north of Zagreb, is a largelyoverlooked destination thats often used asa mere transit point on the way to or fromHungary. However, the town is worth a visit in

its own right as its centre is a showcase of scru-pulously restored baroque architecture andwell-tended gardens and parks. It was onceCroatias capital and most prosperous city,which explains the extraordinary refinementof its buildings. Topping off the symphony isthe gleaming white, turreted Stari Grad (OldCity), which contains a city museum.

History

The town of Garestin (now Varadin) playedan important role in Croatias history. It firstbecame a local administrative centre in 1181under King Bela III, and in 1209 it was raisedto the status of a free royal borough by KingAndrew II, receiving its own seal and coat ofarms. The 800-year anniversary of this eventwill be celebrated in 2009.

When Croatia was under siege by the Turks,Varadin was the most powerful stronghold

and the residence of choice for generals. Oncethe Ottoman threat receded, Varadin pros-pered as the cultural, political and commercialcentre of Croatia. Its proximity to northernEurope facilitated the boom of baroque ar-chitecture, which flourished in Europe during

this period. Top artisans and builders flockedto Varadin, designing mansions, churchesand public buildings.

The town was made the capital of Croatia in1756, a position it held until a disastrous fire in1776, when the Croatian ban(viceroy) packedup and moved his administration to Zagreb.The still-thriving town was quickly rebuilt inthe baroque style, which is still visible today.

The pleasant town is a centre for textiles,

shoes, furniture and agricultural products.Its also an increasingly popular day-trip des-tination its historic core is currently beingspruced up, with plans to complete the reno-vations by 2010.

OrientationThe bus station lies just to the southwest of thetown centre, while the train station is to the east,at the opposite end of town. About 1km apart,

Virovitica (44km)(13km);

To Hlebine

(53km)To Nagykanizsa

(30km)To Zagreb

karievo

UrbanSveti

Na MuriSv Martin

Desini

TopliceStubike Bistrica

Marija

Kumrovec

Klanjec

TopliceKrapinske

Ptuj

Zlatar

Krapina Ljubeica

Varadinske Toplice

Beletinec

LepoglavaIvanec

Tuno

Ladanje

Vinica Srainec

SredieMursko

Podturen

Varadin

NedelieIvanovec

M Subotica

Belicaakovec

Domainec

Prelog

Gorian

Sv Marija

D Dubrava

Ludbreg

Koprivnica

Krievci

Oroslavlje

Bedekovina

Zabok

Pregrada

CastleTrakoan

ejroga

Z

ok

i

nlaK

ok

s

jlecaM

aci

navI

(642m)

(846m)

(1059m)

Mura

Drava

Drava

Bednja

Be

dnja

Krapina

Sutla

H U N G A R Y

S L O V E N I A

CastleBeanec

CastleVeliki Tabor

41

E59

A2

E65

A4

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HRVATSKO ZAGORJE 0 30 km0 20 miles

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elegant churches are being restored as part ofthe towns bid to be included in Unescos listof World Heritage sites. Conveniently, mostbuildings have plaques with architectural andhistorical explanations in English.

The Town Museum(Gradski Muzej;%658 754; www.gmv.hr; Strossmayerovo etalite 7; adult/student 20/12KN;h10am-6pm Tue-Sun May-Sep, 10am-5pm Tue-Fri, 10am-1pm Sat & Sun Oct-Apr) is housed inside the StariGrad (Old City), a gem of medieval defensivearchitecture surrounded by a lovingly mani-cured park. Construction of this whitewashedfortress began in the 14th century and shapedup into the present Gothic-Renaissance struc-ture by the 16th century, when it was the re-

gional fortification against the encroachingTurks. In private hands until 1925, today its amuseum that houses furniture, paintings, dec-orative objects, insignia and weapons amassedover centuries and now divided into 10 exhi-bition rooms. Far more interesting than thehistoric collections is the architecture: entervia a drawbridge and wander around arch-ways, courtyards, chapels and towers of thissprawling castle-fortress.

A 10-minute stroll west takes you to the se-rene Varadin Cemetery(Hallerova Aleja;%7am-9pmMay-Sep, to 5pm Oct-Apr),a horticultural master-piece designed in 1905 by Viennese architectHermann Helmer. A meander amid tomb-stones, avenues, promenades and over 7000trees, including magnolia, beech and birch,reveals some superb landscaping.

Just south of Stari Grad is the Gallery ofOld & Modern Masters (Galerija Starih i Novih Majstora;

%214 172; Trg Miljenka Stania 3; adult/student 20/12KN;h10am-6pm Tue-Sun May-Sep, 10am-5pm Tue-Fri, 10am-1pm Sat & Sun Oct-Apr), housed in the Rococo-styleSermage Palace built in 1759. Note the carvedmedallions on the facade and then pay a quickvisit to the museum, with a display of portraitsand landscapes from Croatian, Italian, Dutch,German and Flemish schools. Note that thepermanent exhibition occasionally shutsdown in favour of temporary shows.

The fascinating Entomological Collection(Entomoloka Zbirka;%658 760; Franjevaki Trg 6; adult/student 20/12KN;h10am-6pm Tue-Sun May-Sep, 10am-5pm Tue-Fri, 10am-1pm Sat & Sun Oct-Apr), housed inthe classicist Hercer Palace, comprises nearly4500 exhibits of the bug world, including 1000different insect species. The examples of insectnests, habitats and reproductive habits are in-formative and well displayed, with interactivestations and free audio guides.

Built in 1650 in baroque style on the siteof an earlier structure, the Franciscan Church &Monastery of St John the Baptist (Crkva Svetog IvanaKrstitelja;%213 166; Franjevaki Trg 8;h6.30am-noon& 5.30-7.30pm)contains the towns tallest tower

(at 54.5m). It also houses an ancient phar-macy ornamented with 18th-century ceilingfrescoes depicting the continents and naturalelements. Next to the church is a copy of thebronze statue of Grgur Ninskithat Ivan Metrovicreated for Split. If youre needing a little extraluck, touch the statues big toe and good luckwill come you wayor so the story goes.

One of the towns most striking buildingsis the Town Hall(Gradska Vijenica; Trg Kralja Tomislava

1), a handsome Romanesque-Gothic structurethat has had this civic function since the 16thcentury. Notice the towns coat of arms at thefoot of the tower and the carved portal dat-ing from 1792. Theres a guard-changing cer-emony every Saturday from 11am to noon.

The towns newest attraction is theTraditional Crafts Square (Trg Tradicijskih Obrta;h10am-6pm Mon-Sat Apr-Oct). Here, the townblacksmith forges Varadin Medallions and

there are demonstrations of pottery, weavingand hat-making to recreate the olden times.Just to the south of Trg Kralja Tomislava is

the Cathedral of the Assumption(Katedrala UznesenjaMarijina;%210 688; Pavlinska 5;h7am-noon & 4-7.30pm),formerly a Jesuit church built in 1646. Thefacade is distinguished by an early baroqueportal bearing the coat of arms of the nobleDrakovifamily. Occupying the central naveis the altar with elaborate engravings, mar-

ble columns and the gilded painting of theAssumption of the Virgin Mary. Famous forits great acoustics, its the site of concerts dur-ing the Baroque Evenings (see p100).

Other highlights in Varadin (to be ad-mired from the outside) include the PataiPalace(Palaa Patai; Franjevaki Trg 4), an exquisitelyrestored rococo palace dating from 1764 witha finely carved stone portal, and the Patai-Puttar Palace (Palaa Patai-Puttar; Zagrebaka 2), an

eye-catching mixture of baroque and classicalstyles with a richly decorated stone portalfeaturing the coat of arms of the Pataifam-ily. The Croatian National Theatre(Hrvatsko NarodnoKazalite;%214 688; Augusta Cesarca 1)was built in1873 in neo-Renaissance style, following thedesigns of Hermann Helmer.

A 15-minute walk northeast of the towncentre takes you to the verdant Drava River wa-terfront. This wide, tranquil river is bordered

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by footpaths and several outdoor cafs inwhich to kick back. For some water fun, head3km out of town to Aquacity(%350 555; Motinjakbb, Trnovec Bartolomeki), Varadins version of acity beach on the road to Koprivnica, with a

lake, tennis courts and a restaurant.

Festivals & EventsVaradin is famous for its baroque musicfestival, Varadin Baroque Evenings (www.vbv.hr),which takes place over two to three weeks eachSeptember. Local and international orchestrasplay in the cathedral, churches and theatresaround town. Tickets range from 75KN to150KN, depending on the event, and become

available one hour before the concert at travelagencies or the Varadin Concert Bureau(%/fax212 907; Croatian National Theatre, Augusta Cesarca 1).

In late August, the eclecticpancirfest(www.spancirfest.com) enlivens the towns parks andsquares with world music (from Afro-Cubanto tango), acrobats, theatre, traditional craftsand illusionists.

A more offbeat event is the annual TrashFilm Fest(%/fax 390 925; www.trash.hr; MMC Kult, Anina

2), an extravaganza of low-budget action flicksthat takes place in MMC Kult over a few daysin mid-September.

Between April and October, the townmarket is transformed into an antique fair(h9am-noon) the second Saturday of everymonth.

SleepingGenerally less expensive than in Zagreb,

most hotels in Varadin are clean, well main-tained and offer decent value for money.The clientele consists mostly of visiting busi-nesspeople from Zagreb and neighbouringcountries this means hotels are likely to bebusy on weekdays and empty on weekends.

If youre looking for private accommo-dation, turn to the tourist office, which haslistings of single/double rooms from about150/250KN. There is generally no supple-

ment for a single nights stay and pricesremain the same year-round.Studentski CentarVaradin (%332 910, 332 911;

[email protected]; Julija Merlia bb; s low-high 180-225KN,d 310KN;i) This student hall/hostel has 12newly renovated single rooms available forrent year-round, each with TV, cable inter-net and fridge. Doubles can be booked insummer only, when students leave. Thereslaundry service for 23KN.

Maltar (%311 100; www.maltar.hr; F Preerna 1; s/d220/405KN;pa)Good value for money canbe had at this cheerful little family-runpen-sion (guest house) near the centre. Roomsare well kept and complete with satellite TV

and air-con. Four suites (two/three people465/595KN) have kitchenettes.

Garestin Hotel (%/fax 214 314; Zagrebaka 34; s/d308/341KN;p)Locals frequent the popular res-taurant of this establishment a stones throwfrom the centre, while visitors kick back incomfy rooms upstairs, each outfitted with aminibar and other standard trimmings.

Hotel Turist (%395 395; www.hotel-turist.hr; KraljaZvonimira 1; s/d from 353/546KN;pai)A lack of

character at this six-storey hotel is balancedby 35 years of service, solid facilities and func-tional rooms. The hotel has a freshly paintedfacade and is a stroll away from the centre.The pricier and slightly larger business classrooms come with minibars.oHotel Varadin (%290 720; www.hotel

varazdin.com; Kolodvorska 19; s/d from 388/576KN;pai) Sparkling contemporary rooms atthe citys newest hotel, opposite the train sta-

tion, are jam-packed with amenities such asinternet and minibars. On the premises is arestaurant with a bar and terrace.

Hotel Istra (%659 659; www.istra-hotel.hr; IvanaKukuljevia 6; s/d from 570/860KN;pai) The un-beatable location in the heart of town hardly

justifies the hefty room costs at Varadinsonly four-star property. The expected facilitiesand in-room perks are all in place, but wowedyou wont be.

Eating & DrinkingWhile it doesnt stand ou t as a gourmet desti-nation, Varadin offers plentiful opportunitiesto try Croatias continental cuisine, for variousbudgets. There is a daily market(Augusta enoe 12),open until 2pm. Many bakeries sell Varadinssavoury finger-shaped bread, klipi.

Angelus (%303 868; Alojzija Stepinca 3; pizzas/mainsfrom 25/45KN) Housed in a vaulted basement,

this cosy pizzeria-trattoria churns out excel-lent pizza, pasta (from gnocchi to tagliatelle),risottos and meat mainstays.

Grenadir (%211 131; Kranjevia 12; mains from 32KN)No-frills but great-valuegableci (cheap fillinglunches) are popular with locals at this tradi-tional town centre eatery.

Park (%211 499; Jurja Habdelia 6; mains from 35KN)The grilled meats and salad buffets are prettystandard here; whats special are the terrace

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with leafy views, the old-school vibe andcheap lunches.

Zlatne Ruke(%320 650; Ivana Kukuljevia 13; mains49-116KN) The latest outpost by the ownersof Zlatna Guska, this subterranean spot is

the towns most design-conscious choice,with white-stone walls and creative dishes,such as deer tartare steak and goose liverwith peaches.oZlatna Guska(%213 393; Jurja Habdelia 4;

mains 57-119KN) A medieval theme runs throughthis basement restaurant, which evokes aknights dining hall with plenty of armour.Portions are copious and the dishes are wellprepared and imaginatively named, including

the last meal of the inquisitions victims (ahearty bread-and-sausage soup).Mea Culpa (%300 868; Ivana Padovca 1) Get

your caffeine or cocktail fix at this swankylounge-bar with two floors inside and, onsunny days, tables extending out on TrgMiljenka Stania.

Soho (Trg Miljenka Stania 1) Just like MeaCulpa, this caf-bar has tables on thesquare but the interior is more intimate

and toned down.

Getting There & AwayVaradin is a major transport hub in northCroatia, with bus and train lines running inall directions. For information on long-haulbuses to Germany and northern Europe,see p309. Remember that northbound busesoriginate in Zagreb, stop at Varadin andcost the same whether you buy the ticket in

Zagreb or Varadin.Theres a daily bus to Vienna, Austria(210KN, six hours) and two daily buses toMunich, Germany (345KN, eight hours).Theres a twice weekly bus to Berlin (773KN,15 hours) and to Zurich, Switzerland(509KN, 13 hours). Most buses to the coastgo through Zagreb. There are also weekdaybuses to Trakoan Castle (25KN, four to sixdaily), Varadinske Toplice (15KN, 30 min-

utes, 18 daily) and Zagreb (69KN, 1 hours,hourly). Note that service is greatly reducedon weekends to Trakoan and VaradinskeToplice (only one bus on Saturday, noneon Sunday).

There are 11 to 14 daily trains to Zagreb(53KN, 2 hours); connect in Zagrebfor trains to the coast. One direct trainruns daily to Budapest, Hungary (205KN,six hours).

VARADINSKE TOPLICE%042 / pop 6973Sulphurous thermal springs at a steamingtemperature of 58C have been attractingweary visitors to Varadinske Toplice since the

Romans first established a health settlementhere in the 1st century AD. Gentle, woodedhills surround this appealing spa town withan assortment of churches and historic build-ings, including the baroque castle of Stari Grad(Trg Slobode 16). Behind its neo-Gothic facadehides the tourist office (%633 133; www.toplice-vz.hr, in Croatian;h7.30am-7.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm &4-7pm Sat & Sun Jul & Aug, 7.30am-3.30pm Mon-Fri Sep-Jun),which distributes brochures and info about

relaxing health therapies and can help youfind private accommodation.

Adjacent is the city museum(%633 339),whichshowcases a sculpture of Minerva from the 3rdcentury AD; the museum was closed for reno-vations at the time of research, but should reo-pen soon. History buffs should stroll aroundAqua Iasae, the remains of the Roman spa builtbetween the 1st and 4th centuries AD, locatedjust a quick stroll up from Stari Grad.

Hotel Minerva (%630 831; www.minerva.hr; TrgSlobode 1; s/d 340/520KN;ps) is built aroundthe thermal pools, which are said to have cura-tive powers, especially for rheumatic ailments.The unsightly concrete building featuresrooms with balconies, an indoor and out-door pool, an aqua park and a fitness room.Guests have free access to the pools, while dayvisitors pay 40/45KN on weekdays/weekends.There is also a sauna (45KN per hour), mas-

sages (120KN per 40 minutes) and variousantistress programs.An infinitely more pleasant overnight op-

tion is the family-run guest house Ozis(%250130; Zagrebaka 7; s/d 180/300KN;p),at the townentrance. It has 10 spick-and-span rooms andthree suites, plus a lovely courtyard. Breakfastis additional and theres a 10% surcharge forstays under three nights.

If you have your own wheels, stop for lunch

at Zlatne Gorice(%666 054; www.zlatne-gorice.com;Banjina 104, Gornji Kneginec; mains from 36KN),3km fromToplice along the old road to Varadin. Thissparklingly restored mansion among vineyardsserves Central European fare (think schnitzels,stews and veal medallions) in the four inte-rior salons or on a terrace with pastoral views.Theres a wine trail, a garden labyrinth, winetastings (45KN with cheese, fruit and bread)and three cosy doubles (300KN) upstairs.

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The spa is 12km southeast of Varadin and69km northeast of Zagreb. There are numer-ous buses from Varadin (see p101).

TRAKOAN CASTLE

%042Among continental Croatias most impressivecastles, Trakoan Castle(%796 281; www.trakoscan.hr; adult/student 30/15KN;h9am-6pm Apr-Oct, to 4pm Nov-Mar), 80km northwest of Zagreb, is worth a visitfor its well-presented museum and attractivegrounds. The exact origin of its constructionis unknown but the first official mention datesto 1334. Not many of its original Romanesquefeatures were retained when the castle was

restored in neo-Gothic style in the mid-19thcentury and the 215-acre castle grounds land-scaped into a romantic English-style park withexotic trees and an artificial lake.

Occupied by the aristocratic Drakovifam-ily until 1944, the castle features three floors ofexhibits that display the familys original fur-niture and a plethora of portraits. The series ofrooms ranges in style from neo-Renaissanceto Gothic and baroque. Theres also an arma-

ments collection of swords and firearms, and aperiod kitchen in the basement. After soakingup the history, wander along the verdant pathsdown to the wooden jetty at the lake, whereyou can rent a two-person paddleboat (50KN

per hour) in warm weather.No buses operate between Zagreb andTrakoan but there are weekday connectionsfrom Varadin, making a day trip possible(see p101).

KRAPINA%049 / pop 4647The main reason to visit Krapina, a busyprovincial town at the heart of a pretty rural

region, is one of Europes largest Neanderthalexcavation sites, which is now a museum.In 1899, an archaeological dig on theHunjakovo hill unearthed findings of humanand animal bones from a Neanderthal tribethat lived in the cave from 100,000 BC to35,000 BC. Alongside stone tools and weap-ons from the Palaeolithic Age, 876 human re-mains were found, including 196 single teethbelonging to several dozen individuals.

EN ROUTE TO HUNGARY: MEIMURJE

The undulating landscapes of Meimurje stretch northeast of Varadin towards the borders with

Hungary and Slovenia. Fertile, scenic and packed with vineyards, orchards, wheat fields and

gardens, this area sees few tourists. That is slowly changing, however, as its attractions, such as

up-and-coming wine cellars and the spa village of Sveti Martin, become uncovered.

To sample the regions top wines in an authentic family environment, head to Lovrec vineyard(%040-830 171; www.hotel.hr/vino-lovrec; Sveti Urban 133, trigova;hby appointment)in the village of SvetiUrban, 20km northwest of akovec, the regions capital. The guided tour (available in English,

French and German) of this country estate tells you about the boutique wine production and its

fascinating history, which spans six generations of winemakers. Youll peek into the 300-year-old

wine cellar with ancient wine presses and barrels, rest in the shade of two towering plane trees

once used as air-conditioning for the cellar, take in the vistas of the 6-hectare vineyards, and top

it off with tasting about 10 wine varieties, from chardonnay and pinot gris to local graevina. The

whole experience lasts up to two hours and costs 80KN (20KN extra for tasty cheese, salami and

bread snacks), with a bottle of wine to take home. Youre encouraged to buy another bottle.A few kilometres away along verdant hilly roads, the pleasant village of Sveti Martin Na Muri

showcases a recently renovated spa resort, Toplice Sveti Martin (%040-371 111; www.toplicesvetimartin.hr; Grkaveak bb; s/d 428/656KN). It has a series of outdoor, indoor and thermal pools, a waterpark, tennis courts, forest trails, shops, restaurants and a golf course in the works. Accommodation

consists of swanky apartment-style units, each with a living room, kitchen and balcony. For

nonguests, day tickets to the pools start at 50KN (60KN on weekends); the price drops by 10KN

after 1pm. Other facilities include a fitness room (25KN per day), sauna (60KN per day) and

various body therapies, including mud wraps (160KN per 30 minutes) and chocolate massages

(300KN for 45 minutes).

At Gorianec farm (%040-868 288; Dunajska 26), about 4km from the village, you can try horseriding, fishing or hunting. Potrti Kota (%040-868 318; Jurovak 79; mains from 35KN), 1km uphillfrom the spa, serves good local food and has double rooms for rent (250KN).

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Once youve connected to our long-goneancestors and briefly meandered aroundtown, Krapina offers little to keep youentertained.

Orientation & InformationThe main road that runs through town isZagrebaka Ulica, which becomes LjudevitaGaja in the centre and Magistratska atthe northern end. The town centre is TrgStjepana Radia between Zagrebaka andLjudevita Gaja. The train station is about300m to the south; the new bus terminal isanother 600m away along the same street, atFrana Galovia 15.

The tourist office (%371 330; [email protected]; Magistratska 11;h8am-3pm Mon-Fri, tonoon Sat) keeps sporadic hours and offersscant information.

SightsKrapinas highlight is the Museum of Evolution(%371 491; www.krapina.com; etalite Vilibalda Sluge bb;adult/student 20/10KN;h9am-5pm May-Oct, 9am-3pm Tue-Sun Nov-Apr), just west of the centre. The cur-

rent museum has a limited display while thenewly built 1200-sq-metre exhibition spacegears up to open (by the end of 2009), withprehistoric artefacts and interactive exhibitstracing the history and geology of the region.The nearby park remains unchanged, withsculpted life-sized models of Neanderthalsengaged in everyday activities such as wield-ing clubs and throwing stones.

Worth peeking at in the otherwise unre-

markable town of Krapina is the baroqueFranciscan monastery, which once housed aphilosophy and theology school, and theadjoining St Catherine church, with evocativefrescoes by Pauline monk Ivan Ranger inthe sacristy. The City Art Gallery (%370 810;Magistratska 25; admission free;h10am-1pm Mon, Fri &Sat, 10am-1pm & 5-7pm Tue-Thu)has rotating exhib-its of Croatian artists.

Festivals & EventsAt the beginning of September, the an-nual Festival of Kajkavian Songs (FestivalKajkavske Popevke) features folkloric per-formances, poetry readings and traditionalZagorje food.

Sleeping & EatingTheres no private accommodation, but PodStarim Krovovima (%370 536; Trg Ljudevita Gaja 15;

s/d 210/340KN), the one pleasant pensionin thetown centre,has eight plain but clean units,each with a bathroom. Cheap and tastygablec(lunch) for 23KN can be had at the restau-rant downstairs. For a coffee break in the sun,

grab an outside table at loungey Ilir(%371 444;Trg Ljudevita Gaja 3), or soak up the old-fashionedvibe inside.

Getting There & AwayThere are four weekday buses daily fromZagreb to Krapina (39KN, one hour) but onlytwo on Saturday and one on Sunday. Thereare up to 13 trains on weekdays from Zagreb(33KN, 1 hours), changing at Zabok; trains

run less frequently on weekends.

KRAPINSKE TOPLICE%049 / pop 1265This spa town, about 17km southwest ofKrapina, is located amid the rolling hills ofthe Zagorje countryside. The showpieces arethe four thermal springs, rich in magnesiumand calcium and never below 39C. The townitself isnt particularly attractive and nor is its

atmosphere upbeat, as the visitor pool mainlyconsists of ageing patients in various reha-bilitation programs. That may change withthe unveiling of the new spa centre currentlyunder construction, which will feature indoorpools, saunas and various other fitness andwellness facilities.

The bus station is in the centre of town, astones throw from most facilities, as is thetourist office (%/fax 232 106; tzo-krapinske-toplice@

kr.t-com.hr; Zagrebaka 4;h8am-3pm Mon-Fri, to 1pm Sat),which gives out brochures and information.The smallish rooms at Hotel Aquae Vivae

(%202 202; www.aquae-vivae.hr; Antuna Mihanovia 2;s/d 320/500KN;ps)have outdated decor, so itsworth paying 30KN or 60KN extra for a supe-rior version with a newer bathroom. Requesta room that overlooks the verdant backyard.Rates include the use of outdoor and indoorswimming pools and the fitness centre.

A far more scenic option is Vuglec Breg(%345 015; www.vuglec-breg.hr; karievo 151; s/d405/540KN;pi), a delightful rural hotel inthe village of karievo, 4km from KrapinskeToplice. The four traditional cottages (withseven renovated rooms and three suites) sitamid hills, vineyards and forests, while therestaurant (mains 70KN to 140KN) servesfantastic Zagorje specialities such as puricas mlincima(slow-roasted turkey with baked

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noodles) on a terrace with panoramic vis-tas. The grounds feature tennis courts, hik-ing trails, a wine cellar, and a playgroundand pony riding to keep the little ones busy.Vuglec Breg is best reached with your own

wheels. Drive through town in the directionof Krapina following the signs to Vuglec Breg;at hilltop Hrak Breg, take a left and continueto the end of the road.

Located 46km northwest of Zagreb, the spais well connected to the capital by bus (36KN,1 hours, seven to 12 daily), making it an easyday trip option.

VELIKI TABOR CASTLE

%049As you approach the hilltop castle of VelikiTabor, 57km northwest of Zagreb, what un-folds is a pleasing panorama of hills, cornfields, vineyards and forests. The rural vistasalone make a visit worthwhile, as does goodtraditional dining nearby.

The Croatian aristocracy began buildingfortified castles in the region to stave off theTurkish threat at the end of the 16th century.

The pentagonal Veliki Tabor Castle (%343 963;Koniki Hum 1, Desini; adult/student 20/10KN;h9am-5pm) was built on the grounds of an earliermedieval structure in the early 16th century,with the four semicircular towers added later.Strategically perched on top of a hill, thegolden-yellow castle-fortress has everythinga medieval master could want towers, turretsand holes in the walls for pouring tar and hotoil on the enemy.

Recently renovated, it now features threelevels of galleries around the central court-yard, with a collection of medieval weaponry,period furniture and miscellaneous objectsshowcased in glass cabinets. Bilingual expla-nations illuminate the display, but far moreinteresting than the exhibits is wanderingaround the castle with its towers, staircasesand the 1st-floor chapel that houses the skullof Veronika Desini. According to local lore,

this poor village girl was punished for her ro-mance with the castle owners son and brickedup in the walls; whats on display is a womansskull found in the walls during the renova-tions in the 1980s.

Consider timing your castle visit aroundtwo annual events: the Tabor Film Festival (www.taborfilmfestival.com)in July, an extravaganza ofinternational short films with screenings inthe atrium, and a medieval fairin September,

which is a one-day celebration featuringsword battles, falcon-hunting tournamentsand Renaissance dancing.

To admire the castle from a distance, graban alfresco table at Grena Gorica (%343 001;

www.gresna-gorica.com; Taborgradska Klet 3, Desini; mainsfrom 42KN), a rustic eatery often stomped overon weekends by day-tripping families fromZagreb. The place is a tad gimmicky but greatfor kids, with farm animals roaming around,a playground and lots of open space. Adultswill appreciate the countryside views andwell-prepared Zagorje staples, such as trukle(dough rolls with cottage cheese) and srnei

gula(venison goulash). The restaurant can

be found about 2km east of Veliki Tabor; amarked trail leads from the back of the castleto the restaurant (40 minutes on foot).

There are eight daily buses from Zagreb toDesini(52KN, 1 hours) from Monday toSaturday and four on Sunday, but you willhave to walk 3km northwest to Veliki Tabor.

KUMROVEC%049 / pop 304

The Zagorje region was the birthplace ofseveral celebrated Croats, most notably Tito,who was born as Josip Broz in Kumrovec.Nestled in the Sutla River valley near theSlovenian border, this pretty village has beenthoughtfully transformed into an open-airethnographic museum. A re-creation of a19th-century village, the Staro Selo Museum(%225 830; www.mdc.hr/kumrovec; Kumrovec bb; adult/student 20/10KN;h9am-7pm Apr-Sep, to 4pm Oct-Mar)

features 40 restored houses and barns made ofpressed earth and wood. These hie(Zagorjehuts) are now filled with furniture, manne-quins, toys, wine presses and bakers tools (allaccompanied by English captions) in orderto evoke the regions traditional arts, craftsand customs.

With a stream bubbling through the idyllicsetting, the museum presents a vivid glimpseof peasant traditions and village life. Note

the life-sized bronze sculpture of MarshalTito outside his humble place of birth, withthe original furniture, letters from foreignleaders and random memorabilia inside.On weekends from April to September, themuseum hosts demonstrations of black-smithing, candle-making, pottery-makingand flax-weaving.

There are four daily buses between Zagreband Kumrovec (39KN, 1 hours) on weekdays,

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one on Saturday and none on Sunday. Thereare six daily trains (30KN, 1 to two hours)from Monday to Saturday (five on Sunday),with a change in Sutla.

KLANJEC%049 / pop 562Apart from Tito, another notable Croat fromZagorje was sculptor Antun Augustini(190079), who created the Monument toPeace in front of the UN building in NewYork. Klanjec, his pleasant home town, has agallery(%550 343; www.mdc.hr/augustincic; Trg AntunaMihanovia 10; adult/student 20/10KN;h9am-5pm Apr-

Sep, to 3pm Tue-Sun Oct-Mar) devoted to his opus,plus lots of headless bronze torsos and a hugereplica of the Peace statue. Theres a smallsculpture garden outside and the sculptorsmemorial to fallen Partisans nearby.

Once youve seen the gallery, youll bestrapped for more sightseeing, but do strollaround the charming town to see the 17th-century baroque churchand the Franciscan mon-asteryopposite the gallery, and to take in the

views of surrounding hills.The four daily buses running fromZagreb to Kumrovec stop in Klanjec (36KN,one hour).

MARIJA BISTRICA%049 / pop 1107Croatias largest pilgrimage centre is inZagorje at Marija Bistrica, a village 37km

north of Zagreb on the slopes of MtMedvednica. What steals the show hereis the Marija Bistrica Church (HodoasnikaCrkva Marije Bistrike), which contains awooden Gothic statue of the Black Madonnacreated in the 15th century. The statues al-leged miraculous power dates back to the16th-century Turkish invasions when it wassaved from destruction; it was further provenwhen a disastrous 1880 fire destroyed eve-

rything but the statue. Behind the church isthe Way of the Cross, a path leading up CalvaryHill, with 14 stations marked with works byCroatian sculptors and paired with excellentvistas. The church attracts 600,000 pilgrims ayear, but there were even more in 1998 whenPope John Paul II arrived to beatify CardinalAlojzije Stepinac. To witness a display of seri-ous religious devotion, visit on 15 August forthe most popular pilgrimage of Velika Gospa

(Assumption of the Virgin Mary).There are up to 20 buses a day from Zagrebto Marija Bistrica (30KN to 45KN, 40 minutesto one hour) on weekdays, less on weekends.

CROATIAN NAVE ART

Croatia is the birthplace of its own version of nave art, a distinct style of 20th-century painting

that features fantastical and colourful depictions of rural life.

It was the painter Krsto Hegedui (190175) who founded the Hlebine School in the village

of the same name in Podravina region, 13km east of the provincial centre of Koprivnica. Upon

his return from studying in Paris in the 1930s, he gathered a pocket of self-taught artists with

no formal art education and gave them a chance to shine. This first generation of Croatian nave

painters included Ivan Generali (191492), now the most internationally acclaimed, Franjo Mraz

(191081) and Mirko Virius (18891943). All were amateur artists portraying vibrantly coloured

and vividly narrated scenes of village life.

Today, a clutch of painters and sculptors still works in Hlebine. Their work can be seen on

display in Hlebine Gallery(%048-836 075; Trg Ivana Generalia 15, Hlebine; adult/student 10/5KN;h10am-4pm Mon-Fri, to 2pm Sat). Also in Hlebine is Galerija Josip Generali (%048-836 071; Gajeva 75-83;adult/student 10/5KN;hby appointment), named after the son of the famous Ivan, also a renownedpainter, in the Generali family home.

Other places to see nave art in Croatia are the Croatian Museum of Nave Art (p78) in Zagreb

and the Koprivnica Gallery (%048-622 564; Zrinski Trg 9;h10am-1pm & 5-8pm Tue-Fri, 10am-1pmSat & Sun).

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