Costa Daurada

Version 1 - (2/12/1999)

CONTENTS

GENERAL COMMENTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2ROUTE and CRAG CORRECTIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2Page by page listing of amendments

MARGALEF . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3 to 5Full topos and approach details

This update is intended to be used in conjunction with Fax10 - Costa Daurada, published by ROCKFAX in1998. For more details contact the ROCKFAX web site - rockfax.com.

Thanks to the following who have all contributed to this information:Steve Swygart, Kevin Stephens, Tom Philips, Philip Smith, Simon Pritchett, Alan Austin, SebastianSchwertner, Bernd Poertl, Craig Smith, Lewis Grundy, Jane Grundy, Rory Park, Jane Park, Molly Heits,Sophie Milner, Jon deMontjoye, Hillary Sharp, Lisa Curry and David Chadwick. Sorry to anyone I havemissed off.

Cos ta Daurada Update

Rory and Jane Park on Trumfus Petuts (5+), Sector Can Torxa at Margalef.Photo: Alan James

Costa Daurada Update 2/12/99

Page 44 - La Mussara - Sector RoureRoute 3 - Roure is polished and not very good anymore. Probably worth 6b now. Route 5 - Shargamanta is only 6cRoute 10 - Tu no vadis is harder, 6c.

Page 49 - La Mussara - Sector La ProaRoute 12 La Primera del Estiu is probably 6b+over the top roof.

Page 50 - La Mussara - Sector EspantocellsRoute 4 is probably only about grade 5. The extension to Route 5 - Espantocells is 6b.Route 9 - Del Pelut is 6b+Page 66 - Soterrani - Jardi del RoureRoute 7 - Love etc. is easier - 6a ish

Page 69 - Soterrani - El BiomboRoute 10 is worth 6a.

Page 75 - Les CampinellesRoute 16 - Visula Persuasion is worth three stars.

GENERAL COMMENTS

ROUTE and CRAG CORRECTIONS

Page 80 - Mont-ral - Sector l'ArrepenjadaRoute 8 - Ta is desperate therefore harder than6b+.

Page 90 - Arboli - Can MansaRoute 2 - Kuriosillo is 6a+.Route 3 - Marfullenga is 6a

Page 93 - Arboli - Can SimiroRoute 21 - Variant is three stars and probably bet-ter than the original but it is only 7a+.

Page 95 - El FalcoThe line on the photo-topo marked as 14 is in factRoute 11.

Page 97 - El Falco - RightRoute 9 - Fandango is only 7b.Route 10 - Tu Pa Los.. has a dangerous first clip.

Page 99 - El Falco - LeftRoute 11 - Pa Ella... is the only sandbag at Falco.Probably 7b unless you are a gorilla.Route 16 - Pere Mata is only 6b+.Route 19 - Haber pedido muerte is a superb routebut the grade is all over the place. The first half isprobably about 6b and the second half is probablyeasier. The grade of 6b+ if you do it in one longpitch is about right.Route 20 - Per Tutatis is only 7a+ but it is 40m.This is also the route featured in all the photosearly in the book, not Borinot.

Page 104 - Siurana - Valley CragsRoute 2 - Kataplax is 7a.Route 17 - Mandragora is probably 7b+.

Page 107 - Siurana - Valley CragsThe photo is Ya os Vale not Bistec.

Page 113 - Siurana - Sector MelafotsRoute 31 - Hybrydy is worth 2 stars as is Route 35- Hostia.

Page 115 - Siurana - Can Marges LowerRoute 3 - Ay Candemor is worth 5+Route 4 - Can Fanga is worth 6aRoute 5 - Trimegesto has a dodgy first bolt andthe second is quite high. Possibly 6a.

Page 118 - Siurana - Campi Qui PuguiRoute 23 - Isadora.. is 7b+.

Page 119 - Siurana - Can Gan DionisRoute 2 - Escaralamoza is 6c.Route 3 - Eto e tota ihas poor bolts.

Page 124 - Siurana - TonigrosRoute 4 - Estrany. is 6b.

Page 125 - Montsant - ApproachDont go up the track directly from the parking, thisis someones driveway. Take the other track whichleads first to the left then doubles back up the hill.

Page 130 - MontsantRoutes 2 and 3 are only 2 star.Route 10 is a sustained 6b+, 1 star.Route 11 is brilliant.Route 21 is called Cometa Pupazza and is abril-liant but hard 6c.There is a new line 29a - grade unknown but hard.Routes 31 and 32 looked okay so bin the bags!Route 35 is only 7a+ but quite scary.

Page 132 - Vilanova - General CommentThe grades at this crag are very stiff!

Page 137 - Vilanova - Sector CampingRoute 34 - Maneta Xafardera is worth 6c.

Page 141 - Vilanova - Sector Dels PlomsThere are lots of new routes here. No details areknown but they have all been put up by the own-ers of the camp site at Vilanova de Prades whowill give you the information happily.

Page 147 - La Riba - Sector PedestalThe two routes Mejar menjant and La via de Brianare extremely polished and not really worth 3stars. Menjar menjant is worth 6c+.

Page 151 - La Riba - Sector Les PlaquesRoute 12 - GEAM is worth 7a.

Page 147 - La Riba - Sense NomRoute 1 - Panini di Paura is brilliant but only 6c+.Route 2 - Mon Magic... is also brilliant but is proba-bly 7a+.

Page 157 - Cogullons - ApproachI have had a report that from the large lump ofrock with a sign post on top of it, you need to con-tinue for 1km, not 550m, to the left turn.

Page 165 - Les GrallesSome of the easy routes have been de-bolted inorder to put up some new routes in the middle ofthe pinnacles. The new routes don't look verygood. The de-bolted rotues are, onpage 165 - Route 2, Route 3, Route 4, Route 7and Route 8, and on page 167 - Routes 25 to 29.

THE OVERVIEW MAPSThe position of the village of Prades is wrong on all the little overview maps except the main oneon page 39.

ROPE LENGTHSI have had several comments stressing the fact that you really need a 60m rope in this area. We havetried hard in the guidebook to make this clear on page 18 and also on areas where it is relevant. You willhave problems in the Costa Daurada with a rope shorter than 60m and even with a 60m rope youmay end up having to lower off mid-route bolts.The reason we don't include pitch lengths for all routes is that if you describe a pitch as being 25m thenpeople may assume they can lower-off safely with a 50m rope but:1) not all 50m ropes are the same length2) people may clip different bolts on their ascent making the pitch use more rope3) people sometimes forget when they have cut the tag end off their rope4) people stand in different places to belay5) some people are stupidThese five factors can be vital when the pitch is a long one especially if you are lowering onto a ledge or asteep slope where, even from 2m up, a fall can take you a long way.Another reason that we dont give detailed pitch lengths (on sport routes) is that climbers should learn tobe responsible for their own ropes when lowering off and should never rely on the guidebook. A simple'very long pitches' on the topo should suffice but if accurate details are there then people may trust themwithout questioning and then the five reasons above come into play.

SNAKES and OTHER NASTIESHog-nosed vipers have been spotted on the paths at Mussara and Montral and I have reliably beeninformed that these can be fatal if bites are not treated. Be careful with those sport sandals!Poison ivy has been found on the apporach to Lo Raval. If you are remotely allergic to this then give thecrag a miss.

PAGE 10 - GENERAL INFORMATIONThe telephone number of Tourist Info in Cornudella is wrong. I dont know what it really is.The climbing shop is poor.The Decathlon between Tarragona and Reus has basic gear and a climbing wall.

You can buy Fax10 at the camp site at Vilanova de Prades (if you need another copy or bump into some-one who wants one).

Can Torxa

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23

4 5 67

8

910

1112

MARGALEF - Can Torxa

CAN TORXAThe first quality buttress encountered on the road side of thestream also has some of the best routes of the whole valley. APPROACH - It is possible to park under the crag but if thesespots are occupied park at the larger areas further back.

1. Calatrava . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .x 6aA lone route up the short wall to the left of the main buttress.

2. Trumfus Petuts . . . . . . . . .2x 5+A good finish on the upper wall. See photo on title page.

3. LEscorpi . . . . . . . . . . . . .2x 6aA slightly better line to the right, sharing the same start.

4. Juli Vert . . . . . . . . . . . . .2x 6a+A hard start off a pile of boulders. Well positioned higher up.

5. Somiaruites . . . . . . . . . . .1x 6b+The left wall of the gully.

6. Follet tortuga . . . . . . . . . .1x 5+Slaby wall right of the gully.

7. Name Unknown . . . . . . . . .1x 6aA steep start with pleasant climbing above.

8. Ivan Tres Potes . . .2psx 7bA powerful bulging start leads to a thin upper wall.

9. Supercalcrea . . . .2tsx 7aTrend left towards the arete.

10. Name Unknown . . . . . . . .sx (7a/b)The steep side wall.

11. Freekand . . . . . . . . . . .1x 6c12. El free Pend . . . . . . . . .1x 6cThe long grey wall behind a tree.

EL TOXTO DEN FREDIA small and relatively insignificant buttress further up the road.There are two worthwhile routes. APPROACH - This buttress is very much above the road. There isa small parking spot for 2 cars a bit further on.

The base of this crag is very sandy but higher up the wall is moresolid.

13. Project . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hard

14. Project . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hard

15. El Bocamoll del Priorat2sx 6c+Up orange streaks past a hole.

16. Solikoi . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1x 6cA very sandy start.

17. Via del Mingo . . . . . . . . . . . .x 6bLooks harder than 6b. Sandy steps to start.

The next buttress along is El Laboratori (see next page).

MARGALEF

Margalef is a pleasant littlearea which didnt make themain guide. It has a goodset of routes and some veryinteresting rock formationsand should provide a gooddays entertainment for mostteams.

THE ROUTESThe rock is a conglomerate,like that found at Montsant,but the buttresses are on amuch smaller scale. Most ofthe climbing involves pullingon big pebbles or holes oncefilled by ex-pebbles. Thewalls are sometimes steeplyundercut giving hard startsbut on many of the devel-oped buttresses there areplenty of friendly slabbyoptions as well. It is particu-larly good in the lower grades which are sometimes lacking on certain Daurada crags. Those operating at 7a andabove may be a little disappointed but it could make a good rest day venue.

ASPECT AND CLIMATEThe left-hand side of this valley (looking up) is a complete sun-trap and can be even hotter than many of the other sun-traps inte Costa Daurada since it is also relatively sheltered. The otherside, however, is in the shade for much of the day, unless youget here early, and can be a pleasant hot weather alternative.

APPROACHThe valley is situated some distance to the west of the mainareas covered in the book. The best road to follow is the C242which goes through Cornudella. Head along this road, avoidingany turns to the right until you can turn left down a steep windyroad to Margalef. Clock the kilometres at the top of the hill andlook out for a turning on the left after 6.3k. This leads up a widevalley with buttresses on either side. There are various parkingspots which are detailed on the map below and with the individ-ual sector notes.

Page 3 - Costa Daurada Update 2/12/99

5km

SiuranaMontsant

Arboli

T704

Vilanova de Prades

Prades

Ulldemolins

Cornudella

N420

Margalef

T701

C242

Scala Dei

Porrera

LaMussara

Margalef

C242

T701

Ruins

= pylon

2 cars

Can Torxa

4 cars

Reservoir

Unclimbed cliffs

El Toxto Den Fredi Can Llepafils

El Laboratori

Can Si Fa o No Fot

Can Pesafigues

Can Verdures Not to scale

6.3 km from themain road

2 cars

2 cars

Cova Boix

Margalefvillage

El Toxto den Fredi

ROAD

13 14

1516

17

Sandy

EHIO

The valley of Margalef with El Laboratori and Can Llepafils on the right. Photo: Alan James

MARGALEF - Can Lepafils


Right

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31 3233 34

MARGALEF - Can Lepafils

Far Left

20m to Main Sector

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2 34

5 6

EL LABORATORIFurther up the valley from Can Torxa the lower walls bulge overthe road. These walls have plenty of bolt lines on them but mostlook like either extremely hard routes or very ambitious projects.Infact the immense cave at the far end of the wall has the Worldsmost outrageously placed lower-off on its lip. 25m horizontalroofs all around it and no visible holds! If you do feel like tacklingsomething a bit harder then the lines to the right of the buttress,before the cave, looked a bit more reasonable.

CAN LLEPAFILSThe most extensive buttress in the valley is perched above theimpressive bulging walls of El Laboratori. This has numerouspleasant slab routes especially in the lower grades. It is veryexposed to the sun and can be incredibly hot.APPROACH - Drive down the valley past Can Torxa and continuepast El Laboratori and the deep cave on a corner. Park on thenext bend. Walk up to the pylon and double back above the bigcave to reach the upper tier.

FAR LEFTThe first routes are on a short wall beyond the main undercutbuttress.

1. Tampak . . . . . . . . . . . . . .bx 4+2. A morro . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .x 53. Sexi movie . . . . . . . . . . . . . .x 6a4. Korroscada . . . . . . . . . . . . . .x 6b+5. Eskorbuto . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .x 6a6. Sociedad Alcohlica . . . . . . . .x ?MAINThe main buttress has an unfortunately undercut base givingmost of the routes a first-move crux.

7. Titacorta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .x 5+8. Torrada negra . . . . . . . . . . . .x 5+9. Bombarda . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .x 6a10. Les mosquestambe dormen . . . . . . . . . . .1x 6a+After a beefy start, climb the crack.

11. Avi que nohas visit livingston . . . . . . . .1x 6bAnother beefy start.

12. Smuc . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1x 6a+An easier start if you step on the tree stump.

13. Besigato . . . . . . . . . . . .1x 6bHard start.

14. Callaunrato . . . . . . . . . .1x 6a+

30. To raro . . . . . . . . . . . . .1x 5Steep start.

31. Air Bamba . . . . . . . . . . . . . .x 5+

32. Fa fong . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .x 533. Jungle-jungle . . . . . . . . .bx 6a34. Akimatoro . . . . . . . . . . .bx 5+

CAN SI FA NO FET - No TopoFuther up the valley is another developed buttress above theroad. The local topo and I disagree severely about the grades andlines here so I have included both. My grade is an appearancegrade only and is in brackets.APPROACH - Drive about 500m beyond the parking space forCan Lepafils. Park in a lay-by on the right just before a pylon andsign, on a bend where the reservoir appears. The path up to thebuttress is in the trees opposite the pylon.

Name Unknown . . . . . . . . . . . . .x (6b)Local topo has this as a project. Start up and around to the lefton a higher ledge.

Pilsen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .x (7c/8a)Locally given 6c. Start from the higher ledge. This is up the wallleft of the big rounded arete.

Cop de Cap . . . . . . . .2sfx (7a/b)Locally given 6c. A boulder problem start to the ledge (or walk inunder route 2).

Figogol . . . . . . . . . .2sfx 7a+Agreement! locally given 7a+. A short wall to the ledge.

Txana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .xHard!Locally given 6c - unbelievable!

Via del mingo . . . . . .2spx (7a/b)Locally 6c+. Start from gully behind the block.

15. Puerto Murraco . . . . . . . .1x 6aSlide around the edge of the low roof.

16. Desakato . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .x 6a17. Llepafils . . . . . . . . . . . .1x 5+Left of the scoop.

18. Pampa mik . . . . . . . . . . . . .x 5Right of the scoop.

19. Trans . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1x 4+20. Txak Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . .x 4A high first bolt, but easy climbing.

21. A mi plin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .x 5Start up a steep bank. Break out left.

22. Pidle soccaret . . . . . . . . . . .x 5+Direct verison of the previous route.

23. Miss Tela . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .x 6a+Thin slab. Start up the steep bank.

RIGHTThe first routes encountered are a bit short and uninspiring butthere are a few that look okay.

24. Tronco Quemac . . . . . . . . . . .x 425. Katulina . . . . . . . . . . . . .1x 4+Left of the big tree.

26. Rosco guarro . . . . . . . . .1x 5Right of the big tree.

27. LHomflor . . . . . . . . . . . . . .x 528. Cutty Sark . . . . . . . . . . . . . .x 429. Raticulin . . . . . . . . . . . .1x 5+Steep start.

ESI2 minMain

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18 19 20

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21

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2625

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31

From stream (1st cairn)

No access

MARGALEF - Can Pesafigues

Dont bushbash from Can

Pisafigues

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5

6 7 89

10 11

12

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14

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16

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P P

From stream (2nd cairn)

MARGALEF - Can Verdures

CAN VERDURESThis steep buttress is heavily undercut at the point where thepath arrives. The main area of interest is to the left where theupper walls are more accessible.APPROACH - From the first parking spot, by the ruin and smalldam, cross the stream and walk along the right bank for about300m. The first cairn leads up to Can Pesafigues. The secondcairn leads up to Can Verdures. Dont try and get to this buttressfrom Can Pesafigues without returning to the stream since thebush-bash is awful.

1. El da de La Bestia . . . .tfx 7a+At the end of the cleared vegetation.

2. Baginades . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .x 6b+Left of an orange streak.

3. Kriliu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1x 6b+4. Murciegalus . . . . . . . . . . .1x 6b+Up and orange scoop.

5. Gos roig ros boig . . . . .2sx 6cStart from a block.

6. Samson . . . . . . . . . . . . . .tx 7aTechnical moves on the upper wall.

7. Carn DOlla . . . . . . . . .1tx 7a+8. El seynor de les mosques . .2x 6c+The corner crack and fine upper groove.


9. Galef . . . . . . . . . .2stx 7bSustained above the break.

10. Verdures atmiques . . . . .2x 6cGood climbing on the upper wall.

11. Project

12. Bitx . . . . . . . . . .2stx 7bA steep start but the main difficulties lie higher up.

13. Ni poc . . . . . .1pstx 7bA steep starting bulge with some painful pockets.

14. Estilson . . . . . . .1psx 7aThe same steep start is the crux.

The next section has an impressive project. The only other routesare to the right from the approach path.

15. La pernillotadel Passadena . . . . . . . . . . . . . .x 6bThe wall and slim corner right of the roof.

16. La feria Choquetin . . . . . .tx 6bA thin slab.

The next routes are on the set-back buttress right of theapproach path.

27. Drac Sheran . . . . . . . . . . . . .x 6a28. La senda de wenda . . . . . . . .x 5+A recessed crack.

29. Ulls . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .x 7a30. El mostre B . . . . . . . . . . . .x 6c+31. LEstibador . . . . . . . . . . . . . .x 6c

COVA BOIXThe third cairn on the stream-side path leads up to another but-tress, via a windy path. This is probably the most impressive but-tress in the valley but so far only has two bolt lines. One looksabout 7c/8a and was well chalked, the other looks impossible.

CAN PESAFIGUESThe first buttress encountered on the far bank of the stream isheavily vegetated at its base. APPROACH - From the first parking cross the stream and walkalong the bed for about 300m. When you come to the first cairnhead up through the bushes.

17. Project

18. Maar Galluf . . . . . . . . . . . . .x 6cStart up a white streak.

19. Bulma . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .x 6b+Left of the tree.

20. Sense Pi . . . . . . . . . . . .1x 6c+Behind the tree.

21. Crupa Aristo . . . . . . . . . . . . .x 6b+Pocket at the start.

22. Tasmanian devil . . . . . . .1x 6b23. Campus . . . . . . . . . . . . .2x 6b+A slab up the pillar.

24. El Pesafigues . . . . . . . . .1x 6bA steep start but a nice upper wall.

25. Murdol . . . . . . . . . . . . .1x 6bThe right wall and crack in the big red corner.

26. Escargot Boob . . . . . . . .1x 6c+Tricky start then easier climbing just left of the arete.

RSOP7 min RSO5 min

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