Costa da Morte

COSTA DA MORTE

Folleto Costa da Morte ENG:Maquetación 1 1/10/07 18:26 Página 1


A COSTA DA MORTEThis is the name given to the long stretchof coast lying in the north-west of theProvince of A Coruña and which runsbetween the Boroughs of A Laracha andMuros. It is divided into four areas:Bergantiños, Soneira, Fisterra andMuros-Carnota – and is made up of 17municipal boroughs: A Laracha, Carba-llo, Coristanco, Malpica, Ponte-ceso,Cabana, Laxe, Zas, Vimianzo, Cama-riñas, Muxía, Cee, Corcubión, Fisterra,Dumbría, Carnota and Muros.Some authors attribute the name Costada Morte to the fact that this is the FinisTerrae – the Land’s End where the sunsank into the dark and sinister sea; wheresailors would on occasions simply beswallowed up and where nobody knewwhat lay on the other side. Others, how-ever, claim that the name comes from thelarge number of shipwrecks that thisbreathtakingly wild coastline has wit-nessed over the centuries.Whatever the case, this is unquestionablya coastline of matchless beauty, wheretime appears to have stood still and theair is drenched in legend and mystery.Here, the sights and smells of the sea, thesteep cliffs, the wind whistling as it drawsand shapes the rocks all combine toimmerse us into this unforgettable land-scape. This is a place where magic andreality blend into one, and time and evenspace stand still. The wind whistles as ittraces the forms of the rocks and boul-ders. The rain paints multiple shades ofgreen onto a blue background, and ochre

onto grey. The gales and storms createunique scenes and the stones waitpatiently to tell their tale…On the A Costa da Morte nature has asoul; this is a land of enchanted land-scapes. It comes as no surprise to learnof the pantheism of the peoples thatworshiped the sun, the rocks and naturelong before the coming of Christianity.Indeed, traces of these rites and ritualsare still to be found today in the popularpilgrimages and traditions of the inhabi-tants of this land.Delve into the sights and sounds of theCosta da Morte and you will enter a paral-lel world of light and shadow, where thesea breezes gently caress or mercilesslylash you, a world of whispering voicesand of tempest and calm. A world whichwill awaken all your senses, even thosethat are in the deepest of slumbers. This isthe place where everything commences,as the starting point is also the placewhere everything comes to an end.In physical terms this is a land of con-trasts, lying on a solid granite mass that

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combines low inland flatlands with asharp rugged coastline. Long stretchesof sandy beaches abound, famed fortheir size and fine golden sands; herewe can also find wetlands and sanddune ecosystems of immense ecologi-cal value that are rich in biodiversity,such as the nature spaces of Razo-Baldaio (Carballo), Ensenada de AÍnsua (Cabana), Traba (Laxe), Louro(Muros). The beaches, many of whichstretch out for many kilometres, giveway to steep headlands that jut out intothe sea and which are home to thewesternmost limits of Galicia andEurope such as the capes of SanAdrián and Punta Nariga (Malpica),Roncudo (Corme-Ponteceso), CapeVilán (Camariñas), Punta de A Buítraand Touriñán (Muxía) and the mythicaland legendary Cape Fisterra, the end ofthe western trail or the Camino deSantiago. Another noteworthy feature ofthis land are its inlets or rías. Indeed itforms part of the area known as the RíasAltas, and is home to the inlets of Cormeand Laxe, Muxía and Camariñas, Lires,Corcubión and Muros. Nor must we for-get the spectacular river estuaries of AÍnsua (Cabana), Camelle and Arou(Camariñas), Cuño (Muxía), Sardiñeiro(Fisterra), Ézaro (Dumbría) or Esteiro(Muros).The landscape changes as we make ourway inland, and the rugged rock scenerygives way to a predominance of plains,broken only by the peaks of Facho,Neme, Castelo, Pena Forcada, Penedos

de Traba, or the mythical Pindo, animpressive granite mass which rises upmore than 640 metres from the shoreline.Four large rivers – the Anllóns, Grande,Xallas and Castro – flow through theselands, which are also crisscrossed by amultitude of smaller rivers and streamswhich form large and fertile valleys.Particularly worthy of note is the case ofthe River Xallas. The source of this riveris to be found on Mount Castelo(Coristanco). From here it flows throughthe plateau of the same name beforecrashing down into the sea via the water-fall at O Ézaro Cove, at the foot of themajestic Mount Pindo. Indeed, this is theonly river in Europe that flows into thesea via a waterfall.The climate on A Costa da Morte isoceanic, and similar to that of the rest ofthe Galician coastline, with mild tempera-tures throughout the year that range frombetween 6º and 10º in winter in the cold-est months, and between 18º and 24º insummer. The seafaring villages and

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coastal towns benefit from numerousmicroclimates, in which frosts are a veryrare occurrence and the sea breezessmooth away the bitter winter tempera-tures and provide a welcome respite fromthe heat of summer.

HISTORY AND HERITAGEDespite the fact that very few archaeolog-ical studies have been made into theCosta da Morte, it is known that theregion had a considerably large popula-tion during prehistoric times thanks tothe large number of megalithic monu-ments scattered throughout the area,including the Dolmen of Dombate(Cabana), known as the ‘Cathedral ofMegalithism’. Indeed, all 17 boroughsthat make up this area boast examples ofmegaliths, a fact which led the region’sAutonomous Government to set up theNational Megalithic Park in this area.The large number of fortified settlementsknown as castros also indicates thatrather than decreasing, the populationactually increased during the Iron Age.However, to date, only the settlement inBorneiro (Cabana), known as A Cibdá,situated just a short distance from theDolmen of Dombate, has been restored.Little is known about the area during theRoman occupation. However, the so-called Roman bridges of Lubiáns(Carballo) and Brandomil (Zas), roadssuch as Vilaño (A Laracha), Camiño Real(Fisterra) or Corme (Ponteceso), the 3stone altars that certain researchers insiston situating in Fisterra, including Ara

Solis, the mythological Roman city ofDuio, the existence of a Villa and Romanbaths in Carballo, as well as the refer-ence to the Roman road of A Per LocaMarítima that linked Braccara (Braga)with Asturica (Astorga) and which passedthrough these lands, all indicate that theRomans did indeed settle here.Findings made during archaeological digsin Moraime (Muxía), Tines (Vimianzo) orA Medoña and Soandres (Laracha) alsopoint to the existence of Swebian andVisigoth settlers in these lands.During the troubled Middle Ages, thisarea witnessed the fierce struggles forpower between the local nobles and theprelacy in Santiago de Compostela, proofof which are the medieval fortresses anddefence towers that still stand in severalof these boroughs. Vimianzo Castle(Vimianzo), A Penela Tower (Cabana),the Mens Tower (Malpica), NogueiraTower (Coristanco), or fortresses turnedinto stately homes such as Torres de OAllo (Zas) or Vilardefrancos (Carballo),were all witnesses to the battles betweenthe nobility and the clergy for the controlof these lush and strategic valleys.During this period, the coastal townsand villages were subjected to frequentraids, which led to the later constructionof defence fortresses such as OSoberano (Camariñas), O Cardeal(Corcubión), O Príncipe (Cee), SanCarlos (Fisterra) or the defence wallsand castles of the town of Muros.The area also conserves many fine exam-ples of medieval religious architecture;

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the Convents of San Xiao de Moraimeand San Martiño de Ozón (Muxía)Soandres (A Laracha) are proof of theimportance of monastic life in the area,and we can also fine many magnificentRomanic churches scattered throughoutall 17 boroughs. The later Baroque andGothic styles would also make their markon the area, as there are also many splen-did examples of Plateresque andRenaissance architecture.In time, the fortresses of the MiddleAges were gradually replaced by splen-did pazos - palaces and stately homes,magnificent examples of which can befound throughout the region.From the 13th and 14th centuriesonwards, the coastal towns begin toprosper far more quickly than thoseinland. Several of the most beautifultowns of the Costa da Morte were found-ed during this period, with historicstreets and squares that are well worth avisit. Highlights include the town ofMuros, which boasts an important civiland religious built heritage, with itshouses and squares surrounded by arch-es; Corcubión with its modernist housesand palaces and churches; Fisterra andits Ara Solis Square and its amphitheatrestructure grouped around the harbour;the narrow streets of Laxe; Ponte doPorto (Camariñas) with its houses liningthe banks of the River Grande; andMuxía, presided over by Mount Corpiñoand the Sanctuary of A Barca.The rich and fertile lands and the intro-duction of crops from America earned A

Costa da Morte the nickname of the‘Granary of Galicia’. Indeed, the area pre-serves an important agricultural heritage,with its hórreos or raised granaries,major examples of which include those inCarnota (declared a national monument),Lira and San Martiño de Ozón.Fishing, and the wide variety of fish andshellfish to be found in the area, was theprincipal economic driving force of thecoastal towns. The area was also home toseveral large whaling factories, such asthose in Caión (Laracha) and Malpica.Cottage industries also began to appear,such as lace making and pottery, as wellas other crafts including basket weavingand clog making, etc. Today, A Costa daMorte continues to boast thriving potteryand lace making industries that are inter-nationally renowned for the quality oftheir products as well as their capacity toconserve traditional skills. Camariñas andBuño, in Malpica, are the two mostimportant craft centres for lace makingand pottery respectively.The 18th and 19th centuries also saw thedevelopment of industries related to thesea, such as fish salting and drying facto-ries, clear examples of which can still beseen today, such as the conger eel dry-ing factory in Muxía. These activitieswere brought to the area by entrepre-neurs from Catalonia.In the 19th century, A Costa da Morte alsosuffered the impact of the Napoleonicinvasion and the resistance put up by theinhabitants of these lands resulted in con-siderable bloodshed. Yet it was also dur-

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ing this century that the Costa da Mortewould witness the birth of two of the mostimportant figures in the history of Galicia:Alfredo Brañas (Carballo) and EduardoPondal (Ponteceso). Two mythical figureswho played a key role in the thinking, cul-ture, literature and creation of a sense ofnation in Galicia.The early 20th century saw the start of aphenomenon that was to continue formuch of the century and would representa drain on much of the region’s life blood:emigration. During the first half of thecentury the Galicians left mainly forAmerica, especially Argentina, Uruguay,Cuba and Venezuela, later preferringEuropean countries such as Switzerland,France and Germany.The military coup by General Franco andhis subsequent dictatorship worsenedthe situation. Reprisals, murders and ageneral sense of insecurity forced manypeople with republican and democraticideas into exile. This was another darkage for the Costa da Morte, which wouldremain in oblivion throughout the longdark days of military dictatorship.Today, the Costa da Morte is graduallyemerging from this persistent isolation.

A PROTECTED NATURE SPACEA Costa da Morte has been declared anEU Site of Community Interest due to theimportance of its maritime ecosystemsand the biodiversity of the flora and faunato be found in this area. Indeed, it is a trueparadise for lovers of ecology andecosystems. The entire coastline between

Caión (A Laracha) and Muros and thevarious habitats it houses now benefitfrom this protected status.This stretch of coastline boasts morethan 20 catalogued ecosystems, includ-ing estuaries, coastal lagoons, cliffs withvegetation, fixed and moving sand dunes,peat bogs and rocky crags, etc.The most important sites include theRazo-Baldaio Nature Space (Carballo),The Sisargas Islands (Malpica), A InsuaCove (Cabana-Ponteceso), Traba Lagoon(Laxe), Cape Vilán (Camariñas), CapeFisterra (Fisterra), the sand dune and wet-land habitats around Mount Pindo(Carnota-Dumbría) and Mount Louro andLagoon (Muros-Carnota). The wetlands ofBaldaio, A Insua Cove and Traba Lagoonare home to large colonies of seabirds thatspend the winter there; in turn, the cliffs ofCape Vilán and the Sisargas Islands arehome to practically the Iberian Peninsula’sentire population of black-legged kitti-wakes and auks. Specifically, the SisargasIslands boast the largest colony of black-backed gulls in Spain.

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All these nature spaces are home to awealth of flora and fauna, including sev-eral rare species, some of which can onlybe found in this area. A Costa da Morte istherefore a natural paradise which willdelight and surprise the senses andwhich can be enjoyed at any time of year.The capes such as O Roncudo, Villano,Touriñán, Nariga and Lariño also offervisitors breathtaking panoramic views.Another spectacle not to be missed arethe stony landscapes of the Costa daMorte, where the wind has shaped andformed the granite rocks. Particularlyworth a visit are Penedos de Traba yPasarela, Pedra do Cadro and of courseMount Pindo, known as the CelticOlympus. Truly magical settings inwhich the rocks have taken the form ofanimals and objects.The endless beaches of fine white sandare another major attraction, and a farcry from the crowded sands of somecoasts. Carnota boasts the longest beachin Galicia, which stretches out for anamazing 7 kilometres. Yet with theexception of Coristanco and Zas, all sev-enteen of the boroughs of the Costa daMorte boast magnificent beaches.The rivers stand out against stunning nat-ural backdrops that are to be enjoyed withall five senses: riverside vegetation, mills,waterfalls, spectacular rock formationshighlights include the EntrecrucesWaterfall (Carballo), A Saímia (Pontece-so), Caldeiras de O Castro (Muxía),Batáns de Mosquetín (Vimianzo),Verdes (Coristanco) and Gabenlle (A

Laracha) to name just a few. A truly spec-tacular sight rises up before us with thegranite mass of Mount Pindo, as it tum-bles down to the sea at the mouth of theRiver Xallas in O Ézaro (Dumbría). This isthe only river in Europe that flows into thesea via a waterfall that stands over 100metres above sea level.

LEGENDS AND MAGICAL LANDSCAPESOn the Costa da Morte the differencebetween legend and reality oftenbecomes blurred; here things are notalways quite what they seem. This leg-endary, magical and mysterious atmos-phere is in fact one of the area’s most fas-cinating attractions, making it trulyunique. In ancient times, the inhabitantsof these lands worshipped the sun, thestones and nature and today, manyaspects of these pagan traditions stillexist. In Corme (Ponteceso) we can stillsee clear examples of how Christianitytried to eradicate these pagan traditions.A stone, carved in the shape of a serpentwas Christianised by the addition of astone cross. Yet the clearest examplesare to be found in the Sanctuary of Muxíawith the Abalar and Cadrís stones. Thesestones were almost certainly the object ofworship prior to the arrival of Christianity,but they were later used to glorify themiraculous powers of the Virgin of ABarca, adding to the religious mythologysurrounding the appearance of the Virginbefore the Apostle St James on a boat theAbalar Stone, and whose rudder is theCadrís stone. This belief has placed

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Muxía firmly on the map of the final stageof the Camino de Santiago. The Cama doSanto or Saint’s Bed, close to the Shrineof San Guillerme (Fisterra) is a place ofpilgrimage for those unable to have chil-dren, as the stone is claimed to have alltypes of powers related questions of fer-tility. The aptly-named and pointed Pedrado Cú (bottom stone) in Carballo is saidto cure the haemorrhoids of all those whorest their behinds on it. The rocky land-scapes of sites such as Mount Pindo,Cadro Moors and Traba and Pasarela, toname just a few of the best-known, forman enchanted, magical and mysteriousbackdrop to all types of tales and beliefs.Likewise, fire and water continue to rep-resent the principal purifying elements inpopular imagery. There are countlessholy fountains which are said to hold allkinds of miraculous powers, and practi-cally all the area’s shrines boast their veryown fountain which is said to be able towork miracles.Fire is the common element to the mostpopular festival in Galicia as well as theCosta da Morte. On the night of San Xoán

– St John and the summer solstice –thousands of bonfires (known locally ascachelas) light up the skies. The purifyingflames rid the air of the witches (meigas)and evil spirits. Locals and visitors alikejump over the flames to purify their soulsof evil and to begin life anew. In this cele-bration those other elements of worship -water and plants – also play a key role;flowers are soaked in water and left out-side overnight. When morning comes, thewater is used to wash and purify the body.The Iron Age fortified settlements are anendless source of tales and legends. Theentire Costa da Morte is scattered withthe remains of these ancient settlements,each with its own magical spell, treasureand tale to tell. Almost all speak of themoros and moras, the fantastic beingsthat are said to have built these settle-ments and hoarded treasures of immensevalue underground. There are also refer-ences to submerged cities and towns,engulfed by the waters as a result of theirwicked ways or an evil curse, and whichtoday lie beneath the tranquil waters of alake, lagoon or braña (reservoir). Alcaián(Coristanco), Vilaverde (Laxe), Duio(Fisterra) or Ricamonde (Carnota) arejust a few of these legendary towns andvillages, tales of which can be heard allover the Costa da Morte.Another major source of legends andtales that have been passed on orallyfrom generation to generation are themany saints that are worshipped locally.Santo Adrián rid the area around thechapel named after him of a plague of

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snakes; the Virgin of A Barca (Muxía)appeared before the Apostle St Jameswhilst he was preaching in these lands;the Christ of Fisterra appeared on thebeach inside a box after rescuing a fish-ing boat; the Virgin of los Remedios (Lira)caused a French warship that was aboutto raid the area to sink; and Duio(Fisterra) was doomed to disappear forfailing to heed the teachings of theApostle St James.It’s well worth scratching beneath thesurface on the Costa da Morte. Keepyour eyes peeled in order to see beyondthe obvious. Discover what’s fact andwhat’s legend in each story, each taletold at the inn, each fable…For herethings are never quite what they seem;here nature has a voice of its own, and iswilling to speak to those that are obser-vant and ready to listen.

GASTRONOMYToday gastronomy is a major touristattraction and Costa da Morte boasts awide range of top quality produce.Although we cannot talk of a cuisine thatis specific to the Costa da Morte in thestrictest sense of the term, as the range ofdishes is similar to that of the rest ofGalicia, we can say that the quality of theingredients, especially the fish andseafood, provides an added value. TheGoose barnacles, the king of seafood,which grow on this stretch of coastline areconsidered to be the finest in the world.Particularly famous are those from ORoncudo (Corme-Ponteceso) although

the goose barnacles collected in Muxía orFisterra are equally exquisite.Likewise, the razor clams from Fisterra -known locally as longueirón are alsosaid to be the finest. The velvet and kingcrabs caught on the Costa da Morte arefar superior to those to be found inother waters. The lobsters are alsomagnificent, and the inlets of Cama-riñas, Laxe, Corcubión and Muros, aswell as the Anllóns Estuary and the wet-land of Baldaio (Carballo), are rich incockles, clams and razor clams. Corme(Ponteceso) produces mouth-wateringmussels.Octopus is one of the area’s most tradi-tional and popular dishes. Indeed, thelocally-caught octopus is of an exception-ally high quality. The most traditional wayof preparing octopus is á Feira: it isboiled, chopped and served on a woodenplate with a dressing of olive oil, sea saltand paprika. Restaurants have alsorecently begun serving grilled octopusand it is also a delicious filling for thearea’s traditional pies or empanadas.The fish caught in these waters is alsoparticularly appreciated for both its quali-ty and variety: Pollack, hake, monkfish,horse mackerel, sea bass, sardines, gilt-head bream and skate are just a few ofthe types of fish to be found. Traditionaldishes include a range of mouth-wateringfish and seafood casseroles normallymade with Pollack, conger eel and skate.Make sure you don’t leave the Costa deMorte until you have tasted this deliciouslocal speciality.

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Grilled fish, particularly sole, is anotherexcellent choice, or alternatively opt forbaked sea bass or gilthead bream.Horse mackerel and especially sardinesare worth a special mention. Sardines area classic delicacy that are best enjoyed inthe seafaring towns and villages on asummer’s day. As the local saying goes‘en San Xoán a sardiña molla o pan’ (OnSt John’s Day sardines and bread), and itis around this time that the sardines areavailable all over the Costa da Morte.They are roasted and their deliciousaroma is inextricably linked with the sum-mer evenings on the Costa da Morte.The quality of the squid and cuttlefish invarying sizes is also of an extraordinaryquality. As for the river fish, Pontecesois famed for its eels, whilst the troutcaught in the rivers Anllóns, Grande andXallas is another of the area’s many culi-nary specialities.Yet there is more to gastronomy on theCosta da Morte than fish and seafood.The meat produced here is of an excep-tionally high standard and any restaurant,inn or eating house will offer a wide rangeof beef, pork, lamb, rabbit and chickendishes. Livestock farming in this area stilluses traditional feeding methods whichare reflected in the excellent quality of itsmeats. Stews, the traditional lacón congrelos – shoulder of pork with turniptops- and tripe with chickpeas are com-mon throughout the area, and are idealfor those chilly winter months. Entroido –carnival time – is the perfect opportunityto taste these mouth-watering dishes

which at this time of year are rounded offby the perfect dessert: filloas – deliciouspancakes which can be served in numer-ous ways.The region is also famed for it bread. Thetown of Carballo has a long-standingbread making tradition, and its log-fuelledovens continue to produce bread which isknown for its quality all over Galicia.The fields and orchards of the Costa daMorte are rich and fertile, producing awide range of top quality fruits and veg-etables. Traditional farming methods stillpredominate in this sector. Most of thebeans grown in and around Bergantiñosand Soneira are exported to the neigh-bouring autonomous region of Asturias,famed for its bean stew. Around here thesaying goes that Asturias gives this dishits name and the Costa da Morte thebeans. The potatoes grown here are con-sidered to be the best in Europe, especial-ly those from Coristanco, which cele-brates its potato festival in Septembereach year. Thanks to the microclimates ofthe coastal areas the production of cer-

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tain vegetables such as garlic, lettuce,tomatoes and leeks is doubled and guar-antees exceptional quality. Locally-growngreens and turnip tops are the essentialingredients for the local stock, one of thearea’s most traditional dishes and a staplepart of the local diet.In addition to the many restaurants, thetraditional fairs are the ideal place inwhich to savour the Costa da Morte’s tra-ditional dishes. Gastronomy plays suchan important part in these events thatsome are devoted entirely to a particularingredient or dish. Carballo, for exampleholds tripe, beans and turnip top fairs,during which the restaurants, inns andeating houses prepare traditional dishes.Paiosaco (A Laracha) is famed for itscherry fair, which draws the crowds fromall over the region, anxious to buy andtaste this delicious fruit. Yet no fair iscomplete without an octopus or tripestall, where visitors will be able to tastethese excellent local specialities.

FESTIVALSIn summer practically not a day goes bywithout some borough on the Costa daMorte celebrating some kind of festivity.Gastronomy, religious, legends and funall converge in an endless number ofpopular pilgrimages. Not to be missedare the pilgrimages of A Barca (Muxía),declared to be of tourist interest, OsMiragres (Caión-A Laracha), San Fins(Cabana), O Faro (Ponteceso), As Neves(Dumbría), San Adrián (Malpica), SantaRosa (Laxe) and many more besides.

The patron saint of sailors, the Virgen delCarmen, is celebrated in the ports andharbours throughout the area with seaprocessions and major celebrations,although the actual date will vary fromtown to town.Easter is another important time of year.Particularly worthy of mention are theEaster celebrations in Fisterra, whichhave been declared of tourist interest,with the main events and processionstaking place on Easter Sunday. The pro-gramme of events for Good Friday in thetown of Laxe is also of interest to localsand visitors alike.The Carnival is another traditional eventthat is celebrated throughout the area.Highlights here include the Burial ofMikaela, the Cow Games and Madamitosand Ghuardineros, which stand out fromthe more traditional celebrations in othertowns. Gastronomy festivals are alwaysguaranteed to draw the crowds. Highlightsinclude the Goose Barnacle Festival in ORoncudo (Corme-Ponteceso), the RazorClam Festival (Fisterra), the Cockle

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Festival (Baldaio-Carballo), the ‘Roscón’Cake Festival (Muros), the Eel Festival(Muxía), the Potato Festival (Coristanco),the Trout Festival (Baio-Zas), the TripeFestival (Carnés-Vimianzo), and theMussel Festival (Camariñas).The town of Zas hosts one of the mostimportant folk festivals in Galicia. Knownas A Carballeira, it attracts many of thetop Celtic and traditional music groupsfrom Galicia, Brittany, Scotland andIreland, as well as thousands of fans.Other important folk festivals includeTraba Folk (Laxe) and A Anchoa(Fisterra), although all the boroughsorganise concerts featuring the topnames in traditional music. Pop music isalso present in the borough of Carballo,which organises Xiria-Pop, an importantinternational festival.The Middle Ages are also present in theprogramme of festivities organised onthe Costa da Morte. Corcubión hosts alarge medieval market. The streetsthrong with a range of colourful and his-torical characters including jugglers,troubadours, knights and their ladies andmaster falconers. In Vimianzo the Raid onthe Castle re-enacts the Irmandiña rebel-lion, recreating the assault on thefortress. The programme of events iscompleted with musical performancesand other forms of entertainment.Also of interest are the Bajadas deCarrilanas held in Muros and Vimianzo.Participants hurtle down the steepstreets of these towns in self-made vehi-cles without engines. A sight that is well-

worth seeing and which is guaranteed toraise a smile. The Rapa das Bestas inVimianzo has also been declared a festi-val of tourist interest. Here visitors canadmire the courageous fighters oraloitadores battling to tame the wildhorses in order to submit them longenough to cut their manes. Horsemeatprepared in several delicious recipes isanother attraction of this festival whichis held on Mount Areosa.San Xoán (St John) is probably the mostimportant festival in Galicia, and byextension on the Costa da Morte. Thebonfires – cachelas – light up the skieson this most magical of nights andlocals and visitors alike jump over theflames to scare away the evil spirits. Thebest-known of these celebrations takesplace in Carballo. Mention must also bemade of two internationally craft festivalsheld on the Costa da Morte: the BuñoPottery Festival in Malpica and theCamariñas Lace Festival.

MUSEUMS ANDINTERPRETATION CENTRESAlthough the area does not boast anylarge museums, it does offer visitors awide range of fascinating exhibits, scat-tered around the region in small museumsand exhibition centres. Examples of theseinclude the Fernando Blanco Museum(Cee), with exhibitions on teaching andeducation; the Seno de CorcubiónMaritime Museum, with more than athousand exhibits on seafaring life; theCastelo de San Carlos Fishing Museum,

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with a collection of items on fishing,including tackle and vessels from theCosta da Morte; the BergantiñosExhibition Hall and Museum (Carballo),the former housing temporary exhibitionsand the latter dedicated to ethnographyand history; the Asunción Antelo Museum(Coristanco), with paintings and poems bythis farm labourer and artist who showsvisitors round herself; the Forno do FoerteEco-Museum, Casa do Oleiro and Expo-Bergantiños (Buño- Malpica), all dedicat-ed to traditional pottery and ceramics; theTorre Pujales Foundation (Corme-Ponteceso), home to an important collec-tion of contemporary art; the EduardoPondal Foundation (Cospindo-Ponteceso)featuring exhibits reflecting the life andwork of one of the greatest Galician writersand philosophers of all time; the SeaMuseum (Laxe), with exhibits related tothe sea and the life of sailors; VimianzoCastle (Vimianzo), home to the GalicianCostume Museum as well as the venue forlive demonstrations and exhibitions onlocal arts and crafts; the Linen Museum

(Zas), which houses an excellent collectionof clothes made of line and the tools andinstruments used in their production; theLace Museum (Camariñas), featuring alarge range of designs and items madefrom lace from Camariñas and other partsof the world; the Ponte do PortoEthnographic Museum (Ponte dol Porto-Camariñas), with a collection of appliedarts and lace; Man’s Museum-Camariñas),an open air museum situated in Camelleharbour showing the work of this 20thcentury myth of the Costa da Morte.There is also an excellent network of her-itage and landscape interpretation cen-tres including As Torres do Allo (Zas), thePazos Interpretation Centre and TouristInformation Office; Pozo de Cachón(Muros) and Rectoral de Golmar (ALaracha), the Interpretation Centres forthe Mill Trail; Casa da Pedra (Ézaro-Dumbría) designed as the interpretationcentre for the Mount Pindo and XallasWaterfall trails; and Batáns de Mosquetín(Vimianzo), which, although not an inter-pretation centre in the strictest sense,provides a fascinating insight into theway the mills worked and the importantrole they once played.Other resources on the Costa da Morteact as living museums. A fine example ofthis is the Tourist Fish Market in Fisterraand other fish markets in numerous fish-ing towns and villages. Nor must we for-get the lighthouses that line the coastlineat Touriñán, Villano, Nariga, Lariño andCee; or the seafaring tourism resourcesof the Lira and Laxe Seas.

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Costa da Morte