Costa Blanca

Costa Blanca X-traVersion 2.0 - February 2013

MagdelenaIbiSector Cumbre (Sax)Forad - Extra SectorsAlcoiMorro FalquiEl PicayoBaranc de l'Avern

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Costa Blanca X-tra MiniGUIDE

by Chris Craggs and Alan James

Version 2.0 - February 2013

Published by Rockfax Rockfax 2008, 2013

Thanks to all the climbers who have spent time and effort equipping routes on the crags covered in this MiniGuide. In particular Hagen Goetzke who developed much of Mollo Falqui.

COPYRIGHT NOTICEAll rights reserved. No part of this file may be duplicated in any form, or by any electronic, mechanical or other means, without the prior permission from the publisher.

FOOTNOTEThe inclusion of a climbing area in this MiniGuide does not mean that you have a right of access or the right to climb upon it. The descriptions of routes and grades within this MiniGuide are recorded for historical reasons only and no reliance should be placed on the accuracy of the description. Climbers who attempt a climb of a particular standard should use their own judgment as to whether they are proficient enough to tackle that climb. This book is not a substitute for experience and proper judgment. The authors and publisher of this MiniGuide do not recognise any liability for injury or damage caused to, or by, climbers, third parties, or property arising from such persons seeking reliance on this guidebook as an assurance for their own safety.

This MiniGuide covers eight different locations across the Costa Blanca area of Spain. It is a supplement to the Rockfax guidebook Spain : Costa Blanca which was published in February 2013. The climbing across this area is superb and the main book covers over 3000 routes across the grades and styles on 45 separate crags.

Some of the crags covered in this MiniGuide were previously included in the 2005 Rockfax guidebook to the Costa Blanca. These are Sierra de Magdelena, Ibi, Alcoi and Baranc de l'Avern. There are also some extra buttresses from the crags Sax and Forad that were dropped from the new book. These are all good crags but they have proved to be significantly less popular than some of the other locations. It should also be noted that we took the decision to drop these crags from the print guide early in the guide-writing process and we haven't been back to all of the crags to properly check the information since hence there could be new routes and developments. All the approaches are accurate though to the best of our knowledge.

Also in this MiniGuide is Morro Falqui which is the headland between Moraira and Javea with the Cumbres del Sol (Summits of the Sun) Urbanisation on its crest. This has a number of interesting routes plus some long fully-bolted climbs. The final crag is El Picayo in the far north west which is in a beautiful location and has a small set of routes.

1 Costa Blanca Xtra Version 2.0 - February 2013

MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com

A-31

Calp

Benidorm

Altea

Xalo

Ganda

Alcoi

Ontinyent

Ibi

Alicante

Elda

Elche

Yecla

Xtiva

A-35E-15

E-15

AP-7

AP-7

A-7CV-40

A-31

Sax - Cumbre

p.8

Morro Falqui

p.14

Pen de Ifach

Sierra de Toix

Sella

Ganda

Xalo Valley

Puig Campana

Forad - Extra

p.10

Baranc de l'Avern

p.20

Magdelena

p.2

Alcoi

p.11Ibi

p.5

El Picayo

p.18

Grey crags are a few of the main crags covered in the book Spain : Costa Blanca

About 10km

Costa Blanca X-tra

This is not a major venue, and a bit 'in the middle of nowhere', hence it doesnt see much in the way of visitors. It has a varied selection of sixty or so routes, all in a rather scruffy and very arid setting. It is not worth a visit from afar, but, if you are in the area, it is worth considering for a couple of hours sport. The Pared Negra is the best bit of rock here and the only one we describe. It has a pleasant collection of well-bolted low-grade slab climbs in a sunny setting, worth a day if you climb at 5/5+ and want to tick plenty of routes without too much effort. Generally speaking, the grades here are all rather tough. The fixed gear is excellent on all the decent routes.

ApproachYecla is about 60km north west of Alicante, and is usually approached from Villena on the A31 Madrid road. Just before Yecla, bear left onto the ring road (N334) and follow this for 8km until the road from the centre of town comes in from the right. Just under 1km from here, and just past a wired enclosure on the left, are two nondescript dirt tracks branching off to the right. Follow the left-hand branch to a right fork by a sunken water tank. Continue along this, bearing left at a ruined house, then right at a T-junction just beyond a new house. Continue along the road through a low point in the ridge as it swings up and right to an open parking area - the last section is steep and rough. This is 4km from the road. From the parking head up the open gully passing to the left of the steep Pared Roja. The crag is on the left, just over the col - less than ten minutes from the car.

ConditionsThe cliff described here faces south. It dries rapidly after rain, and the whole valley is well sheltered from the wind.

Costa Blanca Xtra Version 2.0 - February 2013 2 3 Costa Blanca Xtra Version 2.0 - February 2013

MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com

1 A pan y agua . . . . . . . . . . .1 5+Climb through the overhangs to a finish up a rugged rib.

2 Ulimatun . . . . . . . . . .1p 6aDirect via the big hole in the cave roof.

3 Primera . . . . . . . . . . .2t 6aTake the technical slab on the right, then the upper face direct using some rather abrasive holds.

The area of rock to the right has been developed and has (at least) four easier offerings. They look short but pleasant enough. The main section is just to the right.

4 Calienta motores . . . . . . . .1 5Climb out of an orange niche and up the slab past a flake.

5 Al loro con el cazarlo . . . . . . . . 5+Barely independent at the start and not at all above!

6 Treinta cinco . . . . . . . . . . .1 5+Up the centre of the slab (red bolts) then trend right.

7 Square Root of 36 . . . . . . . . . . 5+The right-hand line on the slab past silvery bolts.

8 Ciento veinte dos . . . . . . . .1 4+Start up a pocketed crack on the next slab and trend left.

1 23 4 5 6 7

8

Magdelena Pared NegraMagdelena

Pared Negra

GPS 38.6066 -1.1931

N-334

N-334

N-334a

Yecla

Villena

About 1km

ES10 min20m

Chris Craggs on Caperutica roja (5) on the Pared Negra, Magdelena. A typical slabby offering and one of the best here. Photo: Sherri Davy

ES1 min

A closely-packed set of routes running steeply up the side of a rocky ravine. The ravine is called the Barranco de los Molinos. The routes are well protected and tend to be steep, strenuous and fingery. As is so often the case with out-of-the-way locations, the grades here can seem on the harsh side. The angle of the rock and sharpness of the holds don't help; be prepared to drop your sights a little or get beaten up. Climbers who operate in the 6s and low 7s and who enjoy technical faces should find enough climbing for a good days sport here. Many of the climbs have their names painted on the rock or stamped on the first bolt bracket.

ApproachIbi is best approached from the A-7 motorway which runs from Alicante towards Alcoi. From the south, leave at junction 34 and drive into the town. Turn right at the first traffic lights onto the main street and follow this past a roundabout and some traffic lights to another set of traffic lights by a petrol station. There is no left turn here but overshoot the junction then do a U-turn to get onto the correct road. Drive down here until a right turn signed 'Banyeres de Moriola'. About 1km after leaving the town there is a right turn, just before the second bridge, and just beyond a no overtaking sign. Drive down the track past a red probihut fer foc sign and park on the right after 100m. Leave nothing in the car. Walk to the mill and climb steps just in front of it to reach the base of the crag. Scramble up the slope to find the object of your desire - and some flat ground!From the north, leave the A-7 at junction 40 and head straight into the town. This takes you to the junction above by the petrol station.

ConditionsThe cliff faces north west and thus only gets the sun quite late on in the day, because of this it can be a rather cool venue in the winter. Early in the day it provides a shady retreat in hotter weather. There is often a breeze blowing down the Barranco which helps keep things cool when the heat is on and makes conditions bitter when the weather is cold!



9 Juvito poco . . . . . . . . . . . .2 5Start up the pocketed crack (or to the right) to a curving ledge, then up and left via the left side of the fine tower. Good!

0 Ethiopyan boys . . . . . . . . .1 5 Climb just left of the black streak past a large flake.

q Papa mateo . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 5+ Just right of the black streak, climb the blunt rib via a broken flake to a ledge (crux) then the easier face above.

w Caperutica roja . . . . . . . . .2 5 Approach the flake-crack from the right then climb it, and the rib, up and right by pleasant moves.

e Rambla matxaka 8b . . . . . .1 5The narrow face is climbed past a chevron-shaped niche, then the right side of the rib above.

r Farlopa pa la Tropa . . . . . . . . . 5A scruffy slab leads to better climbing up the rib above.

To the right is a huge fallen flake on the ground, the next routes start above this. There are four small offerings here, all sharing a lower-off.

t La Guia puta esta . . . . . . . . . . . 5 The left-hand line to a lower-off in a large white scar. We don't take the name personally!

y Nos Vamos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 A similar line - aren't they all?

u Veo La Virgin . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5+

i Guillermo el Traversio . . . . . . . 5+

o Casiopea . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5+ Something a bit more substantial up the next taller slab.

p Ramblizo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5+ Pull onto the blocky rib and follow it throughout.

a Messalina . . . . . . . . . . . . .f 5 The white wall on the far right.

s Caligula . . . . . . . . . . . . . .f 6b The end of all things - a toughie to finish with.

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IbiMagdelena Pared Negra

YS8 min20m

Ibi

A-7

CV-806

CV-805

CV-806

CV-801GPS 38.63420 -0.57578

40

39

3435

Petrol station

Signed 'Banyeres de Moriola'

Ibi

About 1km



1 Woloan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .n 7aThe tufa on the far left currently needs runners - odd.

2 Bho . . . . . . . . . . 1ks 5+The steep crack of impending doom.

3 Chintafono . . . . . . 1sp 6a+The leaning wall is well supplied with jugs.

4 Carlo y Bruna . . . . . . . . . .t 7bThe tough pillar to the left of the crack systems.

5 Stalak . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . n 5The steep crack leads to ledges and onward. Gear needed.

6 Rompededos . . . . . . . .ft 7bThe leaning wall leads to ledges and an easier finish.

7 Mediterrneo Free . . . .1f 7aThe pocketed grey rib on good-but-spaced holds.

8 Bacalao de Bilbao . . . .1p 7a+ Climb the steep wall to a good flake and a leaning finish.

9 Elvira . . . . . . . . . . . . .1t 7b Start up a wide awkward crack but leap left into a thinner crack. Up this to the bulges (6c to here) and the crux.

0 Route 10 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7aThe short steep wall right of the crack.

q Traversia de les figrese . .n 6a+The pocketed wall to a vague diagonal line and steep final crack.

w La chica yey . . . . . . . . . .1 7b+ Start as for La traverse.. but climb the wall to the bulges (7a+ to here). Finish with great difficulty.

e Variente Pontect . . . . . . . .1 4The slanting groove has now been bolted. An extension is 6b.

r Unnamed . . . . . . . . . . . . .1 5+The rib right of steep juggy diagonal (a trad route).

t Pontect . . . . . . . . . . . .1s 6cThe leaning crack to a juggy hole, then more of the same.

y La cagaste Burt Lancaster . .t 8a

u Bon profit . . . . . . . . . .1t 7b The steep wall right of a dead tree to a ledge. Finish direct.

i Intron A . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 7aThrough the overhangs, up a short wall then the arete.

o Paranoia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6c A shorter pitch through the widest part of the overhang.

p Viril os . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1 6c

a Piconeta . . . . . . . . . . .1p 6a+Climb through the inverted scoop then left across the wall.

s Qu potito . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6c+A short route up the right edge of the orange streak.

d Figureta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6a The scoopy slab an leaning wall to jugs.

f Vaya marrn . . . . . . . . . . .s 6c The right arete of the slab and leaning pillar above.

g Tela con la Paula . . . . . . . .t 6c A leaning wall leads to a slab and an easy groove.

h Artero no seas duro . . .ft 7a

j Licencia para matar . . . . . .s 6c+ A steep start and technical finish.

k Maldita hepatitis . . . . . . . .1 6b+

l Linda bonita . . . . . . . . . . .1 6bPull into the shallow groove and bridge up this.

; No te inquietes un 7 . . . . . . . . . 6b+ The leaning wall leads to an easier rib above.

z Uhele a bacalao . . . . . . . .1 6bFrom a grassy niche, climb the steep wall leftwards.

x Show de yemas . . . . . . . . .2 6b+The sustained wall from the right-hand side of the niche.

c Chorizo ballarin . . . . . . . . .2 6a+The right-hand side of the tall tower is good and hard.

v Capullos en flor . . . . . . . . .f 6a Fingery moves right if the orange scoop.

b H .M .T . . . . . . . . . . . . .ft 6b Hard climbing left of the water-streak.

n Ole mi Beln . . . . . . . .2t 6a The rib right of the water-streak is good!

m Taifons S2 . . . . . . . . . .tf 6a+ Technical climbing past a couple of clumps of grass.

, Hipermania . . . . . . . . . . . .1 6a An hour-glass shaped pillar leads to good climbing above.

. Mama ya lo sabe . . . . . . . .1 5

/ Ali Baba . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1 6a Pleasant enough and too tough for 5+.

! Leiva show . . . . . . . . . . . .1 5+ The blunt rib that is the last real feature of the wall.

@ Las pelotas rosas . . . . . . . . . . . 5

Luz solar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5+ A 'quickie' that gets the sun first.

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Ibi Pea Almarra Ibi Pea Almarra

TS*!5 min TS*!5 min



7 Pincha pansida . . . . . .1s 6aThe pleasantly sustained slab.

8 Gorilero . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1 6aThe left-trending line requires some delicate slab work.

9 Tauro . . . . . . . . . . . . .1h 6aThe name is painted on the bottom. To get rid of the flutter symbol, carry a few wires.

0 Tubular Bells . . . . . 2th 6b+The name is painted at the bottom.1) 6b+, 18m. A technical wall with spaced bolts.2) 6b+, 14m. Move out right and then skirt past the bulge on its left-hand side.

q Zombis . . . . . . . . . . . .1t 6bA good pitch up the wall.

w Fiesta salvaje . . . . . . .2s 6b+The central line of the face is well worth doing.1) 6a+, 18m. Up the thin pocketed seam to small stance.2) 6b+, 14m. Move left and power past the bulge.

e Busque y compare . . . . . . .2 6a+Another route with spaced bolts and its name at the base.1) 6a+, 18m. The face right of the central groove, sustained.2) 6a+, 14m. Sneak to the right of the capping bulge.

r De pelcula . . . . . . . . .2t 6b+1) 6a+, 16m. Start by a detached flake and head straight up.2) 6b+, 18m. Continue directly to the top - probably the best protected pitch on the cliff.

The first routes are on the short wall just left of the main buttress.

1 Moreno machacn .tfp 7b+Disproportionately hard for this crag.

2 Rompe bragas . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6a+Up the right-facing corner.

3 Polla asesina . . . . . . . . . .t 6cThe right-hand of the trio past some holes and a bulge.

To the right is an attractive open groove/crack line.

4 Homicidio frustrado 1tf 6c+The wall left of the main groove is thin.

5 Asesinato premeditado .1t 6b+The crack line in the groove is not very helpful. The wall to the left is of material assistance.

6 Ingreso cadver . . . . . .1t 6b+A tricky wall climb. Poor belay on the top.

t Toreros muertos . . . . .1t 6b+1) 6a+, 14m. Start at the name and climb straight up the wall.2) 6b+, 18m. Head up the shallow groove line directly above.

y Demonio con faldas 1tf 7a1) 6a+, 18m. Spaced bolts lead up the wall to a small stance.2) 7a, 16m. Thin moves lead quickly to easier ground.

u Lucecitas de colores . . . . .2 6a+1) 6a+, 16m. Start right of a shallow scoop, then traverse above it to gain a groove line and a small stance.2) 6a+, 22m. Climb the groove to the top.

i Jabato con pie de gato . . . .1 6a+1) 6a, 24m. From the name, a long sustained pitch.2) 6a+, 14m. On to the top in the same line. Short and sharp.

o Gringo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1 6a+1) 6a+, 20m. Up the face to a belay in a shallow scoop.2) 6a+, 16m. Direct to the top from the stance.

p Civera . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2 5+1) 5, 20m. The prominent groove is followed to the cave.2) 5+, 14m. Finish out left from the stance in the cave.

a Sensaciones azuladas .1t 6a+1) 5+, 20m. The wall to the right of Civerea. Share its belay.2) 6a+, 14m. Finish out rightwards from the cave.1

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Sax (Cabreras) Sector CumbreSax (Cabreras) Sector Cumbre

Sax (Cabreras) - Sector CumbreThe fine crag of Sax has an extra sector not covered in the book Spain : Costa Blanca. Sector Cumbre is perched high on the hillside south (left looking in) of Peas del Rey at Sax and provides some excellent extra climbing for those looking to explore a bit further. The wall contains some great routes on immaculate rock the only drawback being the slightly tortuous ankle-scratching approach slog up the slope to get to the buttress. Many of the routes have well-spaced bolts so carry a few wires if you have them.

a Access - No climbing from 1 February to 1 June because of nesting birds. This restriction is put in force when the birds nest; it has been known to have been in place as early as December. Check the sign at the start of the path.Approach - See page 106 of the 2013 guidebook for how to get to Sax and Peas del Rey. Continue along the track from the main parking spot to a second parking spot. Walk round the end of the cultivated land

to where a yellow/white flashed track heads diagonally to the right. From the start of this an ill-defined and sparingly-cairned track runs straight up the hill to the cliff.Descent - Some of the routes have lower-offs and some top-out. For the ones which top-out, a selection of gear is probably required for the belay, if not on the route itself. From the top, walk down the left-hand side (looking in) of the crag.

Zona Del BuhoAbout 200m to the right of Sector Cumbre are a few more routes dotted around a more broken section of rock. The routes here are not particularly good and the path to them is awkward.The most obvious feature here is a large triangular pinnacle at the base of the wall. Left of a pinnacle is a clean wall with two 6cs and a 7b on it. The pinnacle itself has two 5+ routes on it. Further right are another seven routes in the 6b to 7a range.

Zona del Buho

Sector Cumbre

14m

20m

20m

32m

35m

ES$KC20 min

ES$KC20 min

Alcoi Uxola is not the most popular crag, it's not that the climbing is bad - though it is hard - it more that the place is poorly situated above a busy town and is really awkward to get to from the coast. In spite of these drawbacks, a worthwhile day's climbing can be had here since the actual routes are quite good, especially in the harder grades. They are well equipped with new bolts and lower-offs. The grades tend to be a notch harder than elsewhere and it is probably only of real interest to people who lead 7a and above, although the slab at the top of the crag has some easier offerings and the classic of Mosca is worth calling in for.

ConditionsThe crag faces south and is sheltered making it a real sun-trap. Due to its angle, it will stay dry in light rain but will get wet pretty quickly in heavier stuff.

ApproachAlcoi is approximately 50km north of Alicante, in the middle of the mountains. Leave the AP-7 at junction 50 and head into the town. Follow this next bit carefully because if you get lost, then you will find yourself in a maze of one-way streets. Take the N340 into the town and turn left over a bridge at a T-junction. Follow this road as it curves round over another bridge then turn left at some lights before a tall church. Drive straight up here ('Calle Espronceda') to the top and turn right at another T-junction. Drive along this road until facing directly at some bins. Turn left onto 'Carrer Isabel la Catlica'. Drive up here and turn left at a blue mini roundabout. Continue down here until facing a no entry then turn right uphill. At the top of this road turn left below some pylons. Drive to the end of this road and park. The crag is up the hill a short distance.



Passage

Sector Cuentos PopularesThis is the left-hand (looking at the North Face) of the two pinnacles in front of its right-hand side. It has several routes on its shady side. The other pinnacle has little of interest.

6 Tres cerditos . . . . . . . .1t 6cThe steep face just right of the arete.

7 Cuentos populares . . . .1t 7aThe centre of the highest part of the face.

8 Dumbo . . . . . . . . . . . . . .t 7a+

9 Pinocho . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6b+

0 Juan Sin Miedo . . . . . . . . .t 7aA direct line to the lower-off of the previous route, passing the left edge of an overlap at half-height.

On the south side of the pinnacle is a short tufa line.

q Las botas de 7 leguas .1f 6c+Plough up the enticing tufas.

The smaller pinnacle to the left (looking at the North Face) of the main pinnacle, has a solitary route.

w Chiquitn . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6b+A bolted slab with a steep start.

Sector PsiquiatricoAbout 80m down the hill, from the Sector Television, is a short wall with two steep routes on it.

1 Carne de psiquatrico . .1t 7aClimb into a horizontal slot and over the bulge above.

2 Bloqueo mental . . . 1ts 7bThe wall past a useful tufa.

Sector MinipimerAt the very bottom of the ridge is a short wall that gets the evening sun.

3 Termomix . . . . . . . 1ts 7bThe left-hand line is very technical.

4 Picadora Mulinex . . . . .1t 7a+Start as for Termomix but trend right across the wall.

5 Minipimer . . . . . . . . . .1t 7a+Steeper but less sustained than its neighbours.

12

3

4

5

6

7 8 9 0

q

w

AlcoiForad Extra Sectors

ComicSuper Heroes

EleccionesTelevision

South Face

Psiquatrico

Minipimer

Cuentos Populares

12m

14m20m

Forad - Extra SectorsThere are a few extra routes on the north face of Forad spread across three distinct sectors. Approach - See page 127 of the 2013 guidebook for how to get to Forad.

Psiquatrico Minipimer Cuentos PopularesYS$10 min

About 100m

GPS 38.70299 -0.48647

Bins

Bridge

Turn left by church

Turn left over bridge

Alcoi Uxola

Alcoi A-7

N340

CV-7881

CV-70

50

About 1km



a Dimitir Macro Plus .3tp 7c+A great route, powerful and with the crux near the top!

s Endavid . . . . . .2spr 7b+Another good route, successfully following the "long reaches between pockets" formula.

d Espera de Juan Lema . .2s 7a+A more pumpy direct finish to the next route.

f Oleada ptrea . . . . .3st 6c+Brilliant climbing up the overhanging wall. Break right where the jugs run out. Hard for the grade.

g Distrito . . . . . . . . 2st 6cGain the scoop of Oleada ptrea via the right-hand line and then finish as for that route.

h Vena Loca . . . . . . . . . .1f 7a+Steep climbing passing right of the tufa high on the wall.

j Que se mueran los feos . . .1 7aAn easier right-hand finish to Vena Loca.

k Veneno . . . . . . . . . . . .2t 6bClimb past the glued flake, a niche and a juggy hole.

l Polos palos lolos . . . . . . .1 6aA combination of the easier sections of these two routes.

; Araa . . . . . . . . . . . . .1t 6bFrom the horizontal break, (name) the ragged crack and shallow groove are reached with difficulty.

The next five routes climb the blocky rock right of the groove.

z Aniceto que te meto . . . . . . . . . 6bStart at the graffiti name and climb the rib past a useful blob to a rightward exit.

x Ventana electrnica . . . . . .t 6b+Start below a bush and climb the wall direct.

c Tentculos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5+The grey wall (name) flake and rib. The easiest here.

v Griptorquidea . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6aThe short and unremarkable leaning wall.

b Los chinos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6a+The route nearest the car is a good example of the grades further to the left!

q Orinal con pedales . 2ts 6c+The bulge to the right has larger holds. Start left of the ramp and climb the wall on pockets (threads) and holes.

w Mosca . . . . . . . . . . . .2t 6a+Excellent climbing up the obvious diagonal corner/ramp. The crux is a tricky bulge low-down and the lower-off is out left on the slab. Well worth the effort. 30m of climbing.

e Jetro . . . . . . . .1spr 7bUp the bulging yellow wall above the tip of the ramp of Mosca. Long reaches between big pockets.

r Vmitos leprosos . . 2ts 7b+A fine sustained offering up the pocketed leaning wall 3m right of the base of the ramp of Mosca.

t Pestaas postizas . 2ts 7bThe wall and rib left of the cave with chains. Pumpy!

y Super flan . . . . . . . 1ts 7cA technical and pumpy one up the shallow scoop - nasty!

u Guapo del sapo .1tps 7bShort and pumpy with a low crux, but it is still desperate!

i Mejillas tiernas . . . . . .1t 8aA steep line past the pair of large eyes early on.

o Moldura . . . . . . . . 1ts 8aFrom the orange streak, battle it out with the tufas.

p Mescalito . . . . . . . . . .1t 8aThe tilted wall (name) is the best of the trio of 8a routes.

The first routes are located on the slab at the top left corner of the crag, reached by scrambling up under the face.

1 Gusano loco . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5+The unremarkable first (or last) line on the cliff.

2 Nen butrut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6aStart left of the shrubbery and go direct.

3 Susi . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1t 6aStart at the name Acido and trend left up the slab to join the last bit of the previous climb.

4 Acido . . . . . . . . . . . . .1t 6a+Start as for Susi but go direct, keeping right of the grass.

5 Mrate . . . . . . . . . 1st 6a+Start at the name and trend right up the sustained slab.

6 Mrate variacin . . . . . . . . . . . 5+An easier variation starting from just down the slope.

7 Migueleo Schwarzeneger .1 5+The shallow groove in the centre of the slab.

8 Vampiro . . . . . . . . 2tf 6a+The bubbly grey rib from a small left-slanting ramp.

9 Beso negro . . . .1fts 6cClimb direct to the bush on Mosca, then up the steep rib.

0 Flipo . . . . . . . . . . 1rt 8aOver the smooth bulge and up the red streak. Thin!

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Morro Falqui - West Face

1 Coming Out . . . . . . . . . . . .2 4+To and through the hole/tunnel - amusing. No lower-off.

2 Schneggerla . . . . . . . .1s 5+The steep right wall of the cave, exiting right.

3 Disorder . . . . . . . . . .1f 6aThe steep corner 10m right of the cave.

4 Andrina . . . . . . . . .3tp 6aA quality solitary route in the taller face to the right. Start at a block, climb the face leftwards and then up to a slot. Two little bulges lead to the belay on the right.

15m to the right down the slope the routes get longer.

5 Wok Dolly . . . . . . . 2sh 6cThe bolts are a bit spaced.

6 Get on Top . . . . . . 2tf 6cStart one metre left of a crack, sustained climbing on sharp rock. The bolts are a bit spaced

7 Solarmissionar . . . . . .1f 5+Start up a left facing groove then move left and climb the face above (crux) to a finish up a crack.

8 Polarpissoir . . . . . . . .1s 6aThe curving groove in the pillar to the right leads to more groove climbing above. Sustained.

The next three climbs are long pitches that share a common start up a slabby rib down and right, just before the cliff swings round to face the sea.

9 Waschbr 9 . . . . . . . . . . . .3 5Start up the slabby rib keeping slightly left left. Then head right to enter and follow the groove throughout to fine finish out on the arete.

0 ARA 11 . . . . . . . . . 1tf 5+As for the last route for 15m then straight up and left to a ledge, then up the face above

q Welt 17 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6a+Start as for the previous route but continue up the groove for 10m then climb the face on the left. Unbalanced and not really recommended.

w Moria . . . . . . . . . . 1st 5+A pleasant face climb. Start 2 metres right of the last climb. Trend rightwards to cross a groove, then things ease up in the upper half.



Benitaxtell

From Benitaxtell

Supermarket

From Teulada

Cumbre del Sol

Cumbre del Sol

CV-740

About 2km

Barranco del Testos

Cala del TestosCala del Moraig

Morro Falqui is the imposing headland to the north of the beaches and deep water soloing north of Moraira. The saddle-shaped headland can be clearly seen from the DWS crags of Cala del Moraig and has been developed by German climber Hagen Goetzke and friends. Easy access and a sunny setting should ensure that you have a good day out here. The routes cover a good spread of grades from 4+ to 6c and the superb 6-pitch Sonjannika in particular should prove to be very popular.

AccessSome of the crags around Moraira have had access problems and there is a lot of development taking place so make sure you park with consideration and avoid making lots of noise.

ApproachFrom Teulada, Javea or Moraira, take the road to Benitaxtell. On the eastern edge of Benitaxtell, turn right towards Urbanisacion 'Cumbre del Sol'. From the point you enter the complex, by the information centre, follow the road for 3.8km as it winds up into the urbanisation to reach a large supermarket on the left. To go to the West and South Faces. Turn left about 100m past the supermarket, just after a pharmacy. Turn right at the second junction - a roundabout marked 'Pueblo de la Paz' Follow this street; at a 4-way junction, take the 2nd road from the right (ie. roughly straight on). At a sharp (hairpin) left bend, drive straight on down a short cul-de-sac between two houses, with open land at the end - park here. From the parking, take a narrow track but leave this after 10m and head right, parallel to the back wall of the houses, heading for the right of a small knoll. Follow the path that becomes visible as soon as you start going downhill. To gain the routes from above, head towards a low point in the cliff top. Routes 1 to 16 are right of this and routes 17 to 20 start 30m left of this point. For routes 1 to 16, keep close to the right-hand edge of the crag. For routes 17 to 20, follow the path leading slightly leftwards and leave it after approximately 200m, then bush-bash to the abseil anchors on the right.Approach to Sonjannika - see page17.

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GPS 38.71416 0.17303

Morro Falqui

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Morro Falqui Morro Falqui West Face

Morro Falqui - SonjannikaThe final two routes are on the tall front face of the cliff overlooking the sea. Although these can be accessed from above by four abseils (35m, 25m, 35m, 45m - see topo) it is easier (and less gripping) to walk/scramble to the base of the cliff (via the Cala del Testos if required) then traverse to the start of the route.Full approach (see page 14 for the approach to the supermarket and a map) - This approach gains the Cala del Testos and the start of Sonjannika. Pass the supermarket as in the normal cliff-top approach, but stay on the main road and follow this downhill past several sweeping bends to a to a three-way junction with a parking on the left, 1.3km from the supermarket (the road leads to the main beach of the Cumbre del Sol). Park here and go back 20m up the road where you find steps leading down to the Barranca los Testos. Follow the gorge for about 20 minutes. There are 3 sections that require steep down-climbing but they are equipped with ropes. For a swim, head down to the beautiful isolated beach that lies at the end of the gorge. For access to the climbing, turn left before the 3rd down-climb and follow a wire cable. Then walk through the giant caves to the front face of the cliffs. Scramble down 20m, traverse around the corner and traverse another 30m to find a small path leading up to the start of the route.

d Silberruecken . . . . 2ts 6bThe left-hand side of the lower tier in three interesting pitches.1) 4+, 30m. From the first bolt of Sonjannika climb straight up the slab, then move left and right over two steps. 2) 6b, 25m. Climb the crack on the right, then make some tricky moves up the vertical face, finishing on an easier slab. 3) 6a, 28m. Traverse to the left then slightly right to reach a huge cave. Exit from this on its left-hand side via a bulge to reach another traverse to the left to gain the top of the cliff.

f Sonjannika . . . . . . . . . 3t 6a+A spectacular route with great (and sharp!) rock. With the walk round option on pitch 5, it makes the whole route only 5+.1) 4+, 40m. Start with an easy pitch traversing diagonally right on a slab. 2) 5, 15m. Climb up to a groove and then left to the belay. 3) 5+, 30m. An S-shaped pitch, ending in a little cave on an exposed pillar. 4) 5, 25m. Exposed! Climb out of the cave with 100m of fresh air below you, then up a pillar. The belay is higher up on a block 3m above a bushy ledge. 5) 6a+, 25m. Climb up a short chimney, then move right onto a slab to get to the top of a big flake. A couple of fingery moves reach the next stance. 5a) 40m. Pitch 5 can be avoided by scrambling round to the left via a short section of fixed rope.6) 5+, 35m. Climb up right for 5m, then another 15m up a rib to a shallow groove. The block above is climbed on its right-hand side, then traverse horizontally left for 6m, around an edge. Move up to the belay.

To the right is another route (currently a project) that runs up slabby rock to join Sonjannika a short way below the ledge systems.

Out on the steep rock on the prow of the cliff is an line of bolts approached by abseil. No details are know about it though it looks pretty tough!

Morro Falqui - South FaceThe next pair of routes start either side of a small cave.

e Blutzoll . . . . . . . . . . . .2s 6b+Steep and sustained. Start left of the cave, reach a crack which leads up to an easier finish

r Im Hagel . . . . . . . . . . . 1f 6b+A juggy start on the right-hand side of the cave, leads to a fingery section in the middle. Finish up a groove.

To reach 15 to 18, follow the ledge below 14 for 10m, then climb up a fixed rope to reach a cave with a belay. These routes have a hard start and easier finishes on perfect sharp grey rock. There are two lower-offs at the top, which can also be reached from the top by scrambling down a fixed rope.

t Gold . . . . . . . . . . . 2ft 6b+Start just right of the belay and follow the golden bolts directly up the wall.

y Silber . . . . . . . . . . . . .1f 6bFrom the belay traverse two metres right and then straight up the face following the silver bolts.

u Edelstahl . . . . . . . . . . . . .1 6bStart up Silber and follow the stainless bolts, slightly rightwards up the face.

i Blattgold . . . . . . . . . . .2p 6a+Traverse 4m right and a down a little from the belay to reach the first golden bolt, then up the face, keeping to the right.

The next routes start from the lower ledge.

o Kleiner Mann, was nun? 1r 6aA short line on the left.

p Hagen and the Test Tube Monkeys

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2p 6c+Very overhanging bouldering to a big finish. Traverse to the right to reach a little cave, then power though the bulge to the belay one of the upper routes. A real gorilla test-piece.

a BGM . . . . . . . . . . . 1pl 5+An impressive groove is steep and juggy, but a bit loose. Wear a helmet while belaying or stay under the overhang at the start. The fixed gear consists of many threads. Start left of the big groove with an overhanging face to reach an easy rib, leading up to the groove. Climb this on big holds.

s Moorhuhn Winter Edition . .2 6aStart from the shoulder at the end of the ledge. Head up the face to reach a shallow groove which is followed to the top. Sharp rock and technical climbing with some great positions.



Barranco del Testos

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Sonjannika Area

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El Picayo is a tall face of good quality rock with some long routes. It has been around for years but has seen little traffic recently despite most of the routes being re-bolted. The quality of the climbing is good and there is a good spread of grades although not much in the green spot category. The routes do need to see a bit of traffic though since some have become slightly overgrown. It is a good crag to combine with a day at Montessa.

ApproachDrive to Moixent on the A35. From the centre of the town, pick up a road to the south signed to Aielo de Malferit. This road leads up and out of the village. After about 5km you arrive at a bend where there is a clear view of the crag high above. Continue around the back of the crag to find a small track on the right (6.2km from the centre of Moxient). Drive up this track and park as best you can so as not to block the track. Continue walking up the track to a large building at the top. The direct path to the crag is hard going so try and find a path on the far side of the building leading rightwards up the hill. This swings around at a high level over the first rocky cliff (which has a few routes) and drops down to the main crag.

ConditionsThe crag is a south-facing sun-trap with no shade on offer. It can get very hot here but could be just the place on a crisp winter day. There will be no dry climbing in the rain and it may get breezy if there is a wind blowing.



1 Picayo One . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5+

2 Picayo Two . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6a

3 Picayo Three . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6a

4 Picayo Four . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5+

5 Picayo Five . . . . . . . . . . . .1 5+

6 Oukranos . . . . . . . . . . . . .1 6a

7 Picayo Seven . . . . 1tf 6c+

8 Comentaris punk . . . . . . . .1 6b+

9 Picayo Nine . . . . . . . . . . . . n 5+Trad line up the central weakness.

0 Toreros Muertos . . . . . . . .1 6c

q Tumores vilche . . . . . .2t 6c+Hard moves pulling past the central overlap. See cover photo.

w Picayo Twelve . . . . . . .2t 7a

e Jaque a la jaca . . . . . . . . .2 6cA nice position on the edge of the main wall.

r Os resentidos . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6a+Poor climbing up broken rock past the tree.

t Directa Manuel Duque . . . . . . . 6a

y Sol de carallo . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6a+

u Picayo Seventeen . . . . . . . . . . 6a+

i Bum Bum Bamoco . . . . . . . . . . 6a+

o Yoscos Galeri . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6b

p Orquesta Malvariche . . . . . . . . 6a+

a Toma dos 'Pum' . . . . . . . . . . . . 6a

s Barriguitas . . . . . . . . . . . .t 6cAn easy first pitch (old bolt and thread) lead up and left to a ledge. Belay here and climb the left-hand line.

d Hambre del tercer mundo . .t 7aThe central line on the upper wall.

f Sequia en Etiopa . . . . . . . . t 6b+The right-hand line on the upper wall.

g Farabundo Marti . . . . . . . .1 6b+Far right-hand line. Start past a peg then up to a bulge (hidden bolt). From the top of the pinnacle swing right and up the excellent steep wall.

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A-35

CV-651

Mogente/Moixent

About 500m

23

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GPS 38.85956 -0.71547

El Picayo

ES15 min



0 Sans Svesgota . . . . . . .2t 7b+Climb to the right side of the ledge to a hard finale with the lower-off just left of a bush on the crest of the wall.

q Man kane . . . . . . . . . .2t 7a+Fine, sustained climbing following new bolts, passing to the right of a large flowering shrub.

w Hector . . . . . . . . . . . . 3t 7aThe last route on the main section of the wall is protected by nice new blue bolts and has a tough upper rib.

The next routes are 20m further right on a steep orange wall.

e Morir d'amor . . . . . 2tf 7bThe left-hand line up the wall.

r Tot ras . . . . . . . . . . . .2t 7a+Good climbing passing to the left of the deep hole.

t Sesion de noche . . . . . . . .2 6cGain a deep hole from the right, then finish out right.

y Te de tot . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1 6b+ The less remarkable right-hand line.

A further 50m to the right are two more shorter climbs:

u Anillo de cuero . . . . . . . . .1 6b+On the left.

i Punt mort . . . . . . . . . .1t 7a ...and on the right.

The first route starts up a rounded rib at a lower level which is most easily reached by a short traverse.

1 Satiro . . . . . . . . . . . . .1n 5+Follow the rib passing old bolts and threads, and placing your own gear when required. Lower-off as for the next route.

2 Milotxo . . . . . . . . . . . .1f 5+ The left edge of the main face has new bolts low down then older ones above. Reach it by a short traverse out from the end of the ledge. The lower-off is on the right at the top.

3 Bordi . . . . . . . . . . . . .2f 6aFrom the left end of the ledge trend slightly left to climb the rib and prominent thin crack. Above this follow flakes.

4 En un moment . . . . 2ft 6bStart as for Bordi and follow the line of bolts just to its right. Sustained and excellent.

5 Pinocho . . . . . . . . . . .1f 6aTrend rightwards up a long black streak.

6 Tempranmillo . . . . . . .1f 6aTackle the yellow streak marked by a line of old bolts.

7 Sangunsa . . . . . . . 2ft 6c+Climb the fine pillar of grey rock. Great climbing unfortunately protected by a mixture of old bolts and threads.

8 Botamonts . . . . . . . . .2f 6cClimb to a wriggling crack at 10m with a black drainage streak issuing from its base and continue in the same line.

9 Sandalio . . . . . . . . . . . 3t 7aTake the tricky lower wall and pass the left edge of a vegetated ledge. Climb the upper wall via scoops and bulges.

The Barranc de l'Avern is a deep-cut twisting ravine with a lot of exposed rock and a busy road running through it. If it wasn't for the road it would be an extremely pleasant location but even with this drawback it is still a worthwhile venue for middle grades climbers. The rock is good and the climbs tend to follow vertical walls with some featuring small overlaps. The gear is a bit old on some routes however there is some replacement going on.If the main gorge is a bit too noisy for you the Sectors Deposit and Visera should suite; they have an idyllic setting in a secluded valley, hemmed in by the hills and are a complete contrast to the other cliffs here.

ApproachThe gorge cuts east to west through the hills to the south of the town of Ontinyent, and is reached by following the ring road passing several impressive roundabouts. Take the CV-81 (signed Bocarient and Villena) for just less than a kilometre from the last rounda-bout to a parking place on the right immediately before the second bridge in the gorge. This is the parking for the Pared del Gegant and Cagallo de Gegant, and is also the start of the road that runs up to the Sectors del Deposit and Visera. See the relevant pages for specific approaches to each sector.

ConditionsMost of the sectors face south and get plenty of sun. Although they are not exposed, it can be windy in the gorge however, this will have the benefit of drying the place out quickly if it has been raining. Sector la Visera may offer something to climb in light rain.

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Baranc de l'Avern Pared del GegantBaranc de l'Avern

ES10 min

Pared del GegantThe spectacular grey sheet of rock offers some fine face routes in an impressive setting.Approach - Follow a track under a bridge, cross the dry river and scramble up to the rim of the water conduit. Follow this leftwards, crossing it at the first opportunity. Scramble up the bank passing to the left of a pinnacle (the top of the Cagallo de Gegant) to two trees on the ridge. Behind and right of these, pass a low rocky band via an awkward chimney, to the second pylon on the ridge. Just above this, a ramp leads back down to the left to the foot of the face.

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GPS 38.79651 -0.59603

GPS 38.79642 -0.60872

CV-81

CV-81

CV-660

CV-655

Ontinyent

From AP-7

To Bocairent and VillenaAbout 1km

Gegant

Visera

Depsit

CagalloLa Via



8 Tirali calceti . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6a+Starting at a cave at the base of the cliff, climb direct up a narrowing slab, an orange groove and a short leaning wall.

To the right are four closely packed lines up the wall, all are pleasant but unremarkable.

9 Cap de caixo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6aThe first route right of the cave has a prominent bolt early on. Climb left of a yellow flake up two short leaning walls.

0 Dolores con piano . . . . . . . . . . 6aFollow the line of new bolts over an overlap and straight on up the orange wall.

q Flamingo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6aAn older bolt above the 1st overhang marks the start. Climb grey bubbly rock and a left-trending shallow groove.

w Tortugo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6aThe face just left of an easy groove is reached over a couple of overhangs and climbed via a broken flake.

e L'ortage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4The left-hand flake on the right side of the buttress is quite hard for the grade.

r Obr Llaunes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4The odd wide yet shallow chimney feature is bridged or jammed to a selection of lower-offs.

1 S'has Golo . . . . . . . . . . . .f 7a+Start 4m left of the bridge. The initial bulge is crossed by some harsh pocket pulling. Pass more bulges and a bush to a lower-off on the rim.

2 Barrufets . . . . . . . . . . . 1f 6cStart 1m left of the plank bridge and pocket-pull around the right edge of the smooth bulges and then head up the easier rib above. The lower-off is rather antiquated.

3 Pitufos . . . . . . . . . 1fs 6aStart opposite the plank bridge at a bush. Climb the rib immediately right of the bulges - sustained and fingery - with particularly thin moves to enter the final crack.

4 Pelawatios . . . . . . . . . . . .1 6aClimb left of a yellow scar at 6m then through a bulge (old bolts) and up the steep wall to a new lower-off on the right.

5 Espero Boxerini . . . . . . . . .1 6aThe wall below the arete high on the cliff has one awkward move to gain the cleaned crack. The arete is pleasantly juggy and is climbed on layaways. Move left to the lower-off.

6 Dolores . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1 6aA line of new bolts up the wall. At the top step left and bridge the corner to a lower-off in the left wall.

7 Caragol . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5Start up a short rib above the narrowest part of the path and climb the wall, passing a couple of tricky moves at two thirds height, to a lower-off by a small tree.

s Si hay siroco . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6c+A line up tilted grey rock passing below the scar where a tree used to be, then trending left to the lower-off.

d Ara no Bailo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6b+The lower bulges are tackled via a hanging ramp/niche. Pull over the left end of the final overhang.

For the next routes, scramble up and right to where there are two low bolts close together at the base of the wall.

f Marti Tirali . . . . . . . . . . . .1 6bPull over the right side of the lower bulge then trend left up the fine grey wall to the lower-off of the previous climb.

g La penya dels Butifarras . . .1 6a+A direct line above the start of the last climb up the wall then across the small roof to finish.

h Pablito clavo un clavito . . .1 6bStart from a flat ledge and climb past a big bolt into a scoop then follow a left-trending scoop to the lower-off.

j De repente un parapent . . .t 6c+The same start leads to the rib just to the right and an exit rightwards through the roof.

k Seccio homos . . . . . . . . . .t 6cFollow the groove to the right of the rib to the roof and finish straight through these.

l Desastre per a un sastre . . .p 6b+The last line here starts up the shattered bubbly rib on the right then powers leftwards through the roof.

To the right is an easy left-slanting ramp and then another buttress with the prominent flake crack of Va que's per hui towards its left-hand side.

t Sopa de ganso . . . . . . . . . . s 6a+The left-facing orange crack on the left side of the wall is followed to difficult moves out right to reach the lower-off.

y Va que's per hui . . . . .1s 6aStart immediately right of a large flake and reach the thin hanging crack via an overhang and some left-trending grooves. It gives excellent sustained climbing to a lower-off on the left.

u Roca bola . . . . . . . 1gt 6a+A steep start up a rusty red flake and grey wall, then the left side of the broad bulging rib. The route features plenty of unhelpful holds and a traverse out right to reach the lower-off.

i Pancho verde . . . . 1ft 7bA line of green bolts up the blank rib is hideously hard.

o Mitja va . . . . . . . . 1ft 6c+A line through the smooth scoop. Start as for the last route but step out right to thin fingery climbing up the scoop.

p Man fotuto . . . . . . 1ft 7a+The right side of the scoop is a fierce sharp pitch.

a Bon tacto . . . . . . . . . . . . .1 7a+A right-hand finish to Man fotuto up the rounded rib.

To the right the cliff bulges in its lower section and is capped by a long narrow roof. The routes offer good climbing on solid rock but the steep loose ledges at the base are a pain!

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Baranc de l'Avern Cagallo de GegantBaranc de l'Avern Cagallo de Gegant

EA*3 min EA*3 minCagallo de GegantImpolitely known as The Giant's Turd, the section of rock above the water channel is south-facing and has some good closely-packed climbs up to 20m in length. Approach - Follow the track under the bridge, cross the dry river bed and scramble up to the rim of the water conduit. Turn right and walk along the rim of the conduit until a plank can be crossed to the foot of the wall. The climbs are listed from left to right, starting to the left of the footbridge.

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Next is a steep grey slab up which the next three climbs start.

7 Johnny Mendieta . . . . .2s 6a+From a cave, climb the left side of the slab through a small overlap, up a yellow streak and over a juggy bulge.

8 La ley del agarre . . 2ft 6b+Good and hard for the grade. Climb left of a hole at 8m then up the slab (easier to the left) and through the bulges.

9 Caxipolla . . . . . . . 1fs 6cUp the right edge of the grey slab then through a series of overlaps to a lower-off hanging from the overhangs above.

0 No talles el teix . . . . . .1f 6b+Climb steep rock then slabbier terrain until just below a bulging prow and make a finger-wrecking move out right.

q El cerdo volador . . . . .1t 6cClimb up the wall to below the final roof with the chains up and left. Reach them with difficulty.

w Baixada 41 . . . . . . . . . . . .1 6c Climb an easy rib then the centre of the back wall of the shallow cave. Up the sharp grey wall then trend right.

e Mocador blau . . . . . . . . . .1 6bStart as for Baixada 41 but step right. Climb through the juggy bulges then move right and back left, to reach the same lower-off.

r Unknown . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . The long line of bolts to the right looks excellent though nothing is known about it .

1 Capoll . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6a+A short line up an awkward leaning white crack.

2 Brimonster . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6b+ The ragged overhanging crack starting from a bay.

3 El principe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . A project up a white rib and a thin wriggly crack line.

4 Alex . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Another project up a grey slab and yellow streak.

5 Orelles curtes . . . . . . .1s 7a Climb the wall passing left of a prominent flake, through a bulge before trending right to reach the lower-off.

6 Orelles Llargues . . . . .sp 6cStart up a yellow wall, keeping right of the flake, passing through a large bulge, and finish up a leaning yellow wall.

s Que pallissa . . . . . . . . . . .2 6aClimb through some scoops then up a steep pocketed wall before finishing up a short rib on holds that keep appearing, and leading you to a conspicuous wire cable lower-off.

Up and right are two new routes that share a prominent lower-off at 12m. The right-hand one climbs the bulging rib and looks about 6c, the other passes just right of a tufa and looks easier. The last five routes are clustered around a bay at the far right side of the cliff.

d Cinq-zero . . . . . . . . . . . . .1 6a+Climb the rib that forms the left edge of the right-facing flake passing a couple of ledges then continue up the scoop.

f Si, que . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1 6aClimb steeply into a right-facing corner and continue, passing some rock scars, and up the slab to the last bolt. Make a short traverse right to the lower-off.

g Pipiolo . . . . . . . . . . . .1s 6aBridge up the back of the groove then swing left and mantleshelf onto a cleaned ledge. The slab gives sustained and delicate climbing, that slowly eases.

h Cap amunt . . . . . . . . . . . .1 5+Follow the easy rib and bulging wall then climb straight up the slab above until a couple of moves left lead to the belay.

j Que facil . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1 5Start as for the last climb up a bulging wall then follow a ramp up to the right. Take the right edge of the slab to a lower-off just short of the gully.

t Calla . . . . . . . . . . . . .2p 6bShort but good. Climb the rib on sharp rock to below the prominent tufa. Make tough moves to reach it and go!

25m further right is the longest route on the cliff.

y Les mil i una nir . . .3ft 7b The show piece of the cliff? Start up a grey slab then follow a direct line straight up the face pulling through bulges and finishing close to the top of the wall.

u Orgullo blanca . . . . . . .2f 6bClimb the black slab (hard!) on crinkly holds then pull over an overlap and continue on much better holds.

i La tacta rouga . . . . . . . 3s 6c Climb to a bolt on the lower lip of a hole 10m up, then head through the centre of a patch of yellow rock riddled with holds. Cross the overhang and finishing up grey rock above.

o Si te dicen que cai . . . . 3s 7bEasy rock leads to the first bolt at 10m. Pass a hole then on up smooth powder-grey streak, and bulging wall to a hole and on through more bulges above; a majestic pitch.

p Llum artificial . . . . 2sf 6cClimb easy slabs between bushes to reach a couple of old bolts. Above this new ones protect difficult moves up the steep wall to reach a diagonal break and the even steeper wall above.

a Mollerunga . . . . . . 2ps 6bA tough pitch at the grade but well worthwhile. Move left and make hard moves to reach a large hole and harder moves to leave it. Continue on up the pumpy wall to easier climbing.

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Baranc de l'Avern Pared de la ViaBaranc de l'Avern Pared de la Via

ES10 min ES10 min

Pared de la ViaThis cliff is well up the valley (1.4km from the main parking area) and rises above an impressive railway embankment. It is the most extensive crag in the area and has a good selection of routes.Approach - The cliff is reached from a parking area amongst ruined buildings under the face. This is accessed via a short steep track that starts at a narrow entrance on the outside of the long right-hand bend directly opposite the cliff. This section of road is fast and great care is needed when turning off here to avoid problems with traffic driving down the gorge. From the parking, cross the river (log) then take a steep track that diagonals up along the base of the impressive embankment to the railway line. Walk left 50m then scramble up to the foot of the face.

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w Camaron . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1 7aTackle the roof at its widest part.

e Maulets . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1 6cCross the narrow roofs then up the wall above.

r Linxo de Bolinoxo . . . .1f 6c+Black bolts. A hard start through roofs then easier moves.

t El somni . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1 7a+Climb tufas, two roofs and the crinkly red wall above.

y Bomberos . . . . . . . . . . . . .1 6c+Green bolts protect this line that weaves up the wall.

u Pepe trola . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7aStart below a tufa, pull over the centre of the roof and then climb the steep back wall of the bay above.

i Arcnido . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6b+The right edge of the overlap and the bay above.

o Pato mas . . . . . . . . . . . . .1 7bThe steep arete left of the lowest point of the cliff.

p Pitaras . . . . . . . . . 2ft 6b+Superb. Up a leaning wall precariously then more strenuously up the wall above. The drilled 'mono' is easily avoided!

a Tarambana . . . . . . . . . . . .1 6bFrom a block climb red rock via a hollow and over bulges.

s Nuit d'amour . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6aStart on the far right and climb a grey rib, some bulges and odd rock above.

1 Cala d'or . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6a+The first offering is perhaps the poorest on the cliff.

2 Masai . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7a+Climb directly up the wall.

3 Tragaboles . . . . . . . . .1r 6a+The tufa systems are climbed on large spaced holds with a hard move at the top. Shorties might question the grade.

4 Styl de butifarra . . . . . . . . .1 7a+The line just to the right of the prominent tufa systems.

5 Dylyn Dylon . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 7aStraight up the brown streak.

6 Placa del diamante . . . . . .1 7bA gem up the left side of the orange streak.

7 Tuarek . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1 7aThe leaning wall is via the right edge of an orange streak.

8 Butifarras . . . . . . . . . . . . .1 6c+Cross the bulges at an orange streak. Blue bolts.

9 Willy Devile . . . . . . . .1f 6b+Start at a big block on the ground and head for the top!

0 Ratamplan . . . . . . . . .1s 6bThe wall left of a groove with the crux at the very top.

q Tatacham . . . . . . . . . .1t 6a+A tough move over the lower roof and sustained above.

7 Polivalent . . . . . . . 1tf 7bTackle the right side of the hanging red rib - tufa climbing near the bottom then pocket pulling above.

8 La cara al venta . . . . . .1f 7a+The diagonal break that is main feature of the right side of the face is climbed by this route with a hard finish up a rib.

9 Tot mon tesoro . . . 1pt 7a+Vicious moves up the steep wall.

0 Fraude millonario . . . . . . . . . . 6a+The first line on the left side of the arete, with a bulging start, then easier above.

q Tecnologa puta . . . . . . . . .t 7aGreen bolts protect this line on the right side of the arete.

w Mata Castellanas . . . . . . . .f 6b+Climb up a short sharp leaning wall, then more straightfor-ward moves up the wall above.

On the right edge of the cliff is a rather scrubby slab. Three routes are on this and share a common lower-off.

e Pelailla . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5Climb steeply up a yellow streak for 4m then make easier above to reach the lower-off.

r Teora en la Practica . . . . . . . . 4A friendly wall climb.

t Si una rosa es una rosa . . . . . . 4The rib and slab on the far right.

1 Misin Imposible . . . . . . . . . . . The first route on the face is (was?) a project.

2 Callo largo . . . . . . . . .1p 7b Get into the big hole at 4m then swing left on to the leaning rib which is followed to the lower-off.

3 Eterna . . . . . . .1tps 6c+Climb the grey and black tufa, then battle with the constricted and severely-overhanging groove above.

4 Antropomorfo . . . . . . . . . .1 6b+Tackle the smart left-slanting orange ramp that narrows as it rises to a tricky exit.

5 Altair . . . . . . . . . . . . .1p 6b+Steep jug pulling leads into a cave, then climb the steep pocketed rock to a lower-off on the rim of the wall.

6 Prematuro . . . . . . . . . .1t 7aA leaning wall is climbed on finger pockets via an orange streak passing a hole with a bush in it. Finish up the rib.

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Baranc de l'Avern Sector del DepositBaranc de l'Avern Sector la Visera

{S*5 min Sector del DepositA short wall on rock that is vertical or gently overhanging. It gets plenty of afternoon sun and is quite well-sheltered.Approach - As for Sector La Visera but aim for the right-hand crag instead.15m

{S*!5 min

Sector la ViseraA steeply-tilted wall with some good strenuous climbs across the gully from the amenable Sector del Deposit. Approach - Turn up the track by the parking for the Pared del Gegant and drive up this for 200m to parking by the water pumping station. Do not block access or restrict the turning of other vehicles. The crag is five minutes walk up the valley to the right of the buildings and is reached by a scramble left along ledges.

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Costa Blanca