RECENT ADVANCES IN COSMETIC DELIVERY SYSTEMS

PRESENTED BY MURTAZA.H.SHAKIRT.Y.B.PHARM

NEED FOR NEW DELIVERY TECHNIQUES

Cosmetics are substances used to enhance or protect the appearance or odour of the human body.

Supply multiple benefits with minimal efforts.

Cosumer perceivable benefits

To optimize sensory attributes

Multifunctional products that focus on treatment as

well as

aesthetic

APPLICATION AREAS IN WHICH DELIVER SYSTEMS ARE USEFUL

Sunscreens, anti-wrinkles, antioxidant delivery.

Flavour and fagrance delivery.

In hair care for nutrient delivery, antistatic agents, conditioning agents.

Humectants and Deodrants .

NOVEL COSMETIC DELIVERY SYSTEMS

1. Vesicular systems Liposomes Silicone vescicles and matrices.

2. Emulsions Microemulsions Multiple emulsions Nanoemulsions Pickering emulsions

3. Particulate Systems Microparticles Nanoparticles Cyclodextrin Comlexes

VESICULAR SYSTEMS

LIPOSOMES:• Lipid vesicles composed of one or more lipid

bilayer surrounding an equal number of aqueous compartments.

• Diameter 25-5000nm

• Ampiphillic molecules

• Most important are phospahtidyl choline and phosphatidyl ethanolamine

WHY LIPOSOMES

Very similar in construction to the actual cell membrane.

Helps to fix active ingrediant to the outermost skinlayer.

Empty liposomes to improve skin condition.

Decreases permiation rate.

LIMITATIONS

• Leakage of contents• Presence of oxidation products

APPLICATION IN COSMETICS

humectants. E.g. polyols

Sunscreens. E.g. octyl methoxycinnamate

vitamins. E.g. vitamin E, A and C.

antidandruff. E.g. selenium salts

Sweet Almond Oil is rich in fatty acids and proteins to nourish the skin. Aloe Vera stimulates the healing process, injured and stressed skin is soothed. Ginkgo Biloba neutralizes free radicals, one of the causes of aging. It also improves capillary blood flow and strengthens tissues. Coconut Oil is also used to decrease rough, dry skin.

Before Application

After Application EXTRASOME® AQUA twice a day to the skin of a male in his 40s

Powdery, bad-toned, Not powdery, well-toned,rough, and dry skin moist, and fresh

SILICONE VESICLES AND MATRICES

Cross-linked silicone polymer composed of polyether modified dimethicone.(silicone elastomer blend, SEB)

silicone resins reacted with certain silicone fluids.

silicon hydride (SiH) reacts with a vinyl group (CH=CH2)

Me3SiO-(MeSiO)x(MeSiO)y(Me2SiO)zSiMe3

(CH2)n R

Me3SiO-(MeSiO)x(MeSiO)y(Me2SiO)zSiMe3

R

Diameter 0.05 to 1 micron

WHY SILICONES?

Silicone

Polyether

Hydrophilic ActivesLipophilic

Actives

Silicone

Polyether

Hydrophilic ActivesLipophilic

Actives

Highly flexible bilayer.

Stable to high temperatures(90ºC).

Quick evaporation of low mol. wt. cyclic silicones.

High values of thixotropy.

smooth, silky, non-greasy and reduced irritancy.

APPLICATION IN COSMETICS Vitamins such as vitamin C, A, E and H

conditoning agents such as gelatin

Emolliants such as jojoba oil

Humectants

Antiperspirant Salts

Blush with silk-like texture and sweat control formula which makes your beautiful makeup stay for long hours. It contains Silicone Elastomer, Low-melting Point Wax and Sebum Control Powder, which effectively smooth and brighten up your skin with natural glow.

MICROEMULSIONS

Thermodynamically stable system.

A system of water, oil and ampiphile.

Diameter is less than 0.22µm

Solubilize both hydrophilic and lipophilic agents.

Advantages and Cosmetic application:

Avoids use of alcohol in pefuming products

Vitamin E microemulsions are highly resistant to oxidation in air

Low viscosity compared to other emulsions.

MULTIPLE EMULSIONS

Globules of the dispersed phase encapsulate smaller droplets.

Two major types O/W/O and W/O/W.

Advantages and Application:

Prolonged skin moisturizers.

Incorporates two incompatible hydrophilic actives.

O/W/O type has been used as sun protection cream.

NANOEMULSIONS

O/W emulsion .

For protection and makeup of skin, mucosa ,

hair and scap.

Comprises of 2 to 15% of oil phase.

Sufactants used are categorised as GRAS.

Bioxil Daily Cel-Repair is specially formulated to provide an all-in-one solution to address skin damage due to prolonged sun exposure, environmental aggression and aging process. Contains a unique blend of antioxidants from fruits and plant extracts, and nano-emulsion of Co-Q 10 to increase skin humidity, giving the skin a smooth and silky feel.

ADVANTAGES AND APPLICATION.

High surface area.

Non-sticky, non-oily and easy to spread.

Does not present phototoxicity and allergeniciy.

Reduces Trans Epidermal Water Loss.

High cepability of keeping skin moisturized

moisturizing lotions perfumed water makeup remover hair products scalp products gels

PICKERING EMULSIONS

Solid stabilized, surfactant free emulsions.

Nanometer sized particle of biodegradable polymers.

Compound Emulsion Type Stabilized

Alumina W/O

Betonite O/W

Magnesium Aluminum Silicate O/W

Fat W/O

Magnesium Oxide W/O

Magnesium Trisilicate W/O

Titanium Dioxide (coated) O/W, W/O

Silica O/W

Tin Oxide O/W

ADVANTAGES AND APPLICATIONS

Avoids the use of non-ionic or ionic surfactants.

Non irritant due to use of biodegradable polymers.

Paticles may themselves may have cosmetic application (TiO2 or ZnO).

Sunscreens

Shamopoos

Conditioners

Vitamin formulations

MICROPARTICLES

Conventional microencapsulation.

Consist of inner core and outer coating material.

Diameter in range of 1 to 1000µm.

Protects, stabilizes or delays release of core.

ADVANTAGES AND APPLICATIONS

reduces the activity of core to outside environment.

Reduces evaporation to outside environment.

Enhances topical absoption of actives and Controled release of fragrances.

Greasy feel and bad odour is avoided

Dermatologic Cosmetic Labs introduces its UVA/UVB Superblock SPF 30, a very water-resistant, broad-spectrum physical sunblock featuring highly refined, micronized titanium dioxide and transparent zinc oxide to help prevent sunburn and protect against the visible signs of aging.

Super Sun Protection

NANOPARTICLES

Submicron colloidal system having diameter of 0.003-1µm.

Lipid vesicles formed by lipid bilayer.

Made of biodegrdable polymers.

Correlation of particle size with concentrations of lecithin and oil

Lecithin Particle Size Oil Core

2.5% 100 nm 18%

2.5% 200 nm 42%

4% 50 nm 10%

6% 40 nm 10%

ADVANTAGES AND APPLICATION

Protection against degradation.

Occlusive , without use of greasy oils.

Enhanced hydration due.

Nanoparticles shows UV-bloking potential.

Small pores hydration

Small particles

Skin

Skin

Large particlesLarge pores Water evaporation

H2O H2O H2O H2O H2O

H2O H2O H2O H2O H2O

sunscreens

retinoids

tocopherol

perfumes

Coenzyme Q10

CYCLODEXTRIN COMLEXES

Cyclodextrins (CDs) are cyclic oligosaccharides containing a minimum of six d-(+)-glucopyranose units attached by a glucosidic bonds.

All the hydroxyl groups in Cyclodextrins are oriented to the outside of the ring.

hydrophobic inner cavity and a hydrophilic exterior.

The cyclodextrins, by themselves, are natural, non-toxic additives.

ADVANTAGES AND APPLICATION Through CD complexation it is possible to obtain controlled release of fragrances.

Reduce or eliminate undesired odors

Cyclodextrin (CD) complexation of fragrance materials increases their solubility and reduces or prevents their evaporation.

Protection against decomposition, oxidation, hydrolysis, or loss by evaporation.

prfuming products

vitamims

gels

Anti-shine day cream with Tea Tree Oil for oily skins … An anti-shine, sebum-regulating skincare

DELIVERY DEVICES

1) IONTOPHORESIS

2) COSMETIC PATCHES

FUTURE TRENDS

Liposomes and nanoemulsion do not disturb the integrity of skin lipid bilayer.

evolution of cosmetic patches.

sonophoresis and electroporation.

Name Supplier Application

Natipide II Liposome Rhone-Poulenc Reinforces skin’s own moisture retention capabilities

Photosome Applied Genetics Sun-care products

Microsponge Advanced Polymer System High payload; improves

cosmetic elegance of liquid

LipoCD-SA Lipo chemicals Able to deliver oils in powder form

Unispheres Induchem Less sensitive to pH and surfactants; pleasing visual effect

Orgasol Elf Atochem Improves skin feel and adhesion, offers controlled delivery. And protection to variety of hydrophilic, lipophilic substances

SUMMARY

Potential to develop as the “New generation smarter carrier systems”

To enhance the safety, stability, extended efficacy and aesthetic appeal.

Consumer appeal.

THANK YOU