554
COSMETIC AND TOILETRY FORM U LATI N S Second dition Volume 4 bY Ernest W. Flick NOYES PUBLICATIONS Park Ridge New Jersey U.S.A.

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

Embed Size (px)

Citation preview

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 1/553

CO SMETIC A ND TOIL ETRY

FORMULATI NS

Second dition

Volume 4

bY

Ernest

W.

Fl ick

NOYES PUBLICATIONS

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 2/553

Copyright by Ernest

W.

Flick

No part of

this

book may be reproduced r utilized in

any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical,

including photocopying, recording or by any informa-

tion storage and retrieval system, without permission

in writing from the Publisher.

Library of Congress Catalog Card Number: 89-39099

Printed in

the

United States

ISBN: 0-8155-1383-6 v. 4)

Published in the United States of America by

Noyes Publications

ill Road, Park Ridge, New Jersey 07656

1 9 8

7

6 4 3 2 1

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data

(Revised for vol 4)

Flick,

Ernest,

W

Cosmetic and toiletry formulations.

1.Cosmetics. 2. Toilet preparations.

I

Title.

TP983.F55 1989 668 .55 89-39099

ISBN 0-8155-1218-X

v.

1

ISBN 0-8155-1306-2 (v. 2)

ISBN 0-8155-1367-4 (v. 3)

ISBN 0-8155-1383-6 v. 4)

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 3/553

Con tents and Sub ject Ind ex

SECTION I: ANTIPERSPIRANTS AND DEODORANTS 1

Alum inum Chlorohydrate Antiperspirant Stick 2

Alum inum Chlorohydrate Antiper 2

Antiperspirant

3

Aerosol Antiperspirant 3

Antiperspirant Cream

O i W a t e r Antiperspirant Cream

Antiperspirant Roll-On

5

Roll-On Antiperspirant

5

Antiperspirant Stick 6

Oil-in-Water Antiperspirant Lotion 6

Antiperspirant Lotion 6

Deodorant 7

Deodorant Stick 7

Dry Antiperspirant Stick 8

Quick Drying Roll-On Antiperspirant 8

Dry Roll-On Antiperspirant 9

Talc Spray Antiperspirant 9

General Purpose Stick Formulation-1 10

General Purpose Stick Formulation-2 10

Stick Antiperspirant 10

Roll-On Antiperspirant

11

Quick Dry Roll-On Lotion 12

Clear Roll-On A.P. Lotion 12

Spray Powder Antiperspirant 13

Deodorant Stick

13

Stick Formulation 14

SECTION : BABY PRODUCTS

15

Baby Bath

16

Baby Lotion Mousse 17

Baby Oil 17

Baby Shampoo 18

Baby Foam Baths 21

Tear Free Baby Bath 22

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 4/553

v Contents and Subject Index

Mild Children's Bubble Bath 22

SECTION

III: BATH AND SHOWER PRODUCTS 23

Aerosol Bath Oil 24

Dispersible Bath Oil 24

BathGel 24

Bath Gelee with Natural Lipid Protein 25

Bath Gelee

25

Emollient Bath Gelee

25

Bath Milk 26

Washing Lotion 26

Bath Oil, De Luxe with Plant Oils 27

Foam Bath with Almond Oil 27

Foam Bath Oil 27

Bubble Bath Bath Oil 28

Bubble Bath 28

Clear Gel 29

High Foaming Shower Gel

29

Foam Baths, Clear 30

Foam Baths, Pearlescent 30

Herbal Foam Bath 31

Foam Bath, Transparent 3 1

Mild Shower Gel 32

Shower Bath Gel with Pearl Lustre 33

Clear, Mild

to

the Skin Shower Bath 32

Refreshing Shower Gel 33

Shower Gel 33

Shower Bath for Everyday Use

34

Mild Foam Bath 34

Shower Baths, Clear

35

Shower Baths, Pearlescent 35

Shower Gel Cleanser 36

Bath Crystals 36

Silky Bath Gel 37

Water White Shower Gel 38

Shower Gel 38

SECTION

IV:

BEAUTY

AIDS

39

Aloe Vera

Skin

Freshener 40

Powder Mask Activator 40

BlemisWScar Concealer 4 1

Skin Cleanser with Porous Cellulose Particles 4 1

Body Scrub 42

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 5/553

Contents and Subject Index ix

Cheek Rouge 43

Concealing Stick 44

Cream Eye Shadow

45

Dry Powder Rouge Base

45

Cream Facial

Scrub 46

Oil-in-Water Cream and Its Scrub Derivative

46

Cream-to-Powder Eye Shadow with Dry-Floc PC 47

Liquid Talc

47

Creamy Eye Shadow

48

Waterproof Eye Liner

48

Creamy Matte Make Up Base 49

Liquid Make-up

49

Creamy Roll-On Lip Gloss 50

Deep Extra Body Conditioner

51

Emollient Liquid Make-up

5

Emulsion Makeup

53

Water-in-Oil Lotion Makeup 53

Eye Contour Balm

54

Eye Mascara

55

Eyeliner SticWencil 56

Face and Body Milk

57

Lip Care Stick

57

Face-Lotion 58

Skin Tonic Water Without Alcohol

58

Facial Cleanser

59

Sting Free Facial Cleanser

59

Fluid Make-up

60

Compact Make-up

60

Fluid Make Up

61

Regenerating Lipcare-Stick 61

Gelled Aloe Vera with Sunscreen

62

Aloe Vera Jelly

62

Gentle Beauty Wash

63

Hair and Skin Moisturizing Mist

64

Hair and Skin Moisturizing Spray

65

Hair Liquid (Soft Type)

65

High Shine Lipstick

66

Lipstick Formulation 66

Lip Balm White

67

Lip Balm 67

Lip Balm

I 67

Lip Gloss (Souffle)

68

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 6/553

x Contents and Subject Index

New Look Lipstick 69

Lipstick 70

Lip-Gloss

71

Lipstick 72

Lipstick, Glossy 72

Lipstick 73

Lipstick Formulae 74

Liquid Foundation 75

Powder Foundation 75

Liquid Make-up 76

Silky Facial Mask 77

Lotion Scrub 78

Lotion Hand Scrub 78

Low Cost, Extended Wear Lipstick 79

Low Cost Lipstick 80

Lip Balm 80

Makeup Foundation 81

Mascara 82

Eyebrow Pencil, Heat Stable 82

Moisture Stick Base 83

Cream Rouge Formula 83

Pot Eyeshadow

83

Moisturizing Liposomal Gel 84

Skin Tightening Gel 84

Moisturizing Make -up Foundation 85

Skin Cleanser 85

Moisturizing Milk with High Electrolyte Content

86

W/O Hydrating Body Milk 86

Nail Polish Remover 87

Non-Feathering Extended Wear Lipstick 88

Oil/Water Matte Cream Makeup 89

Lip Balm 89

Oil-in-Water Milk Emulsion 90

Oil-in-Water Milk Emulsion 90

One Coat Mascara 91

Overnight Facial Moisturizer 92

Moisturizing M ake -up Foundation 92

O/W

Cleansing Milk 93

W/O Cleansing Milk 93

O/W Cleansing Milk 94

Dry Skin Oil with Alcohol 94

Petroleum OiWetroleum Wax Free Lipstick

95

Pressed Powder Eye Shadow (Pearlescent Type) 96

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 7/553

Contents and Subject Index xi

Pressed Powder Eyeshadow 97

Cosmetic Aerosol Foam 97

Pressed Powder with 1% Eldew 98

Pressed Powder with 3% Eldew 98

Prolonged Skin Moisturizer 99

Skin Lightening Composition 99

Three Layer Facial Moisturizer 99

100

Slenderizing Cream with Green Tea Extract 101

Molded Eye Shadow 97

Purifying Clay Face Mask

Amidroxy Sugar Cane Cream 101

Soothing Body Gel 102

Anhydrous Deep Penetrating Gel

102

Stick Type Lip Gloss 103

Thickening Mascara 10 4

Thigh Slimming Cream 105

Ultra Rich Hand and Body Nourisher 106

Vegetable Based Moisturizing Cream 107

Liquifying Cream Makeup Remover 10 7

Water Resistant Liquid Foundation 108

Lip Gloss 108

SECTION V:CREAMS 109

All Purpose Cream 110

Vanishing Cream

All Purpose Dry Skin Cream 11 2

Dry Skin Cream 11 2

Almond Vanishing Cream with Collagen 113

Dry Skin Cream 113

Alpha Hydroxy Acid Cream 114

Alpha Hydroxy Acid Cream with 10% Aloe Vera Gel 115

Aloe Vera Night Cream 116

Night Cream 116

Anti-Cellulite Cream 117

Antiwrinkle Daycream 118

Daycream

118

Benzoyl Peroxide Cream 119

Day Cream O/W for Sensitive Skin 11 9

Cleansing Cream 12 0

Mascara Cream 12 1

Cold Cream 12 2

Cream 123

Facial Washing Cream 12 3

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 8/553

x

Contents

and

Subject Index

Day Cream. Oily

125

Moisturizing Cream. Slightly Oily

125

Deep Moisturizing Cream 126

Apricot Vanishing Cream

127

Emollient Cream

128

Stabilized Urea Moisturizing Cream

128

Emollient Cream for Dry Flaking Skin 129

Facial Cleansing Cream 129

Emollient Cream

130

Non-Greasy Emollient Cream

130

Emollient Cream

131

European O N Day Cream

132

Cream

132

Facial Moisturizing Cream

134

Moisturizing Hand and Body Cream

134

Facial Night Cream

135

General Purpose Cream 136

General Purpose WatedOil Cream

136

General Purpose O/W Cream

137

Acne Scrub Cream

140

Emollient Cream, WatedOil

140

General Purpose Cream

141

Water-in-Oil Cream

141

General Purpose Water/Oil Cream

142

Mineral Oil Cream-W/O

147

General Purpose W/O Cream 148

Oil-in-Water Cream and Its Scrub Derivative

148

General Purpose W/O Hand Cream

149

Oil-in-Water Cream

149

Gentle Night Repair Cream 150

Glycolic Acid Cream 152

Hand and Body Cream

153

High Content Mineral Oil Cream

154

O/W etrolatum Cream

154

Hydrocortisone Cream

155

All Natural Cream W/O ype) 155

Hydrogen Peroxide Cream 156

Hydroxy Acid Cream W/O mulsion)

157

Moisturizing Cream Cold Process W/O 157

Vanishing Cream

131

Exfoliating Cream 133

Age Spot Treatment Cream

135

Glossy Cream

151

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 9/553

Contents and Subject Index xiii

Facial Moisture Creme

158

Mixed Alpha Hydroxy Acid Cream 159

Multi-Functional Day Cream 160

Multi-Purpose Cream 16 1

Versatile Cream

161

Night Cream (15% Aloe) 16 2

Aloe Bath Soap 16 2

OiWater Cold Cream 163

O/W Cold Cream (Soap Free) 163

O i w a t e r Moisturiz ing Cream 164

O iW a t e r Moisturizing Cream 164

O iW at e r Night Cream 165

W/O Night Cream 16 5

O iW a te r Pigmented Cream 166

O W All-Purpose Cream 166

Oil-in-Water-in-Oil Cream 16 7

Transparent Cleansing Cream 16 7

O/W

Protective Hand Cream 168

Hand Cream 168

Modified Oil-in-Water Stearic Acid Cream 169

Skin Cream 169

Hand Cream 169

Moisturizer

O/W

Cream 170

Moisturizing Cream 17 1

Night Cream, Non-Greasy 173

O/W

Cream, with Bacteriostat 173

Protective Face and Body Cream

174

Protective Face and Body Cream

175

Neck Firming Cream 172

Eye Cream 174

Moisturizing Cream 17 5

Rejuvenating Cream 176

W/O Night Repair Cream Cold Procedure 176

Silk Protein Skin Cream 177

Moisturizing Cream with Tritosol 177

Silky-Smooth LotiodCream-B 178

Silky-Smooth LotiodCream-C 179

Silky Smooth Cream Base 179

SkinCream 180

Skin Cream with CAE and Amihope

181

Cleansing Cream 181

Skin Care Cream 182

Silky-Smooth LotiodCream-A 178

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 10/553

xiv Contents and Subject Index

Jojoba Oil Cream 18 3

Vanishing Cream 184

Ross Cold Cream Formulation with Jojoba Oil 185

W/O Cream with Eldew 186

Cleansing Cream 186

90% Water Cream 187

Soft

and Silky Vanishing Cream 187

SECTION VI: HAIR CARE PRODUCTS

188

Artic Mist Spray Gel 189

Super Hard Hold Hair Spray 189

Balsam Conditioner 190

Clear Conditioner with Wheat Germ Cationic 190

Clear Leave-On Conditioner 190

Birch Hair Lotion 19 1

Invigorating Hair Lotion 191

Hair Conditioner 191

Brushing Gel 19 2

Hair Brushing Lotion 192

Brushing Lotion 193

Hair Rinse 193

Clear Conditioner 194

Light Hair Conditioner 19 4

Clear Gel Hairdressing 19 5

WatedO il Hair Dressing 195

Clear 'N' Natural Conditioner 196

Cream

of

Wheat Conditioner 196

Conditioner and Setting Lotion 197

Curl Conditioner and Oil Sheen 19 7

Foaming Conditioner 197

Conditioner with Croquat HH 198

High Performance Creme Rinse Conditioner 198

Cream Curl Activator 199

Hair Relaxer Emulsion 199

Cream Hair Conditioner 200

Hair Conditioner 200

Pearl Conditioner 200

Cream Hair Rinse 201

Hydrogen Peroxide Emulsion 201

Permanent Wave Lotion 201

Deep Conditioning Treatment 202

Intensive Conditioner with Body 202

Ethn ic Hair Care Clear Hair Rinse 203

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 11/553

Contents and Subject Index xv

Ethnic Hair Care Curl Activa tion Gels Hair Repair 204

Conditioning Sheen 204

Ethnic Hair Care Pump Spray-On Moisturizing/Oil-Sheens

Ethnic Hair Care Curl Activation Gel for Shine 205

Ethnic Hair Care Curl Activation Gel Moisturizing 205

Ethnic Hair Care Leave-In Moisturizing'Sheen 206

Ethn ic Hair Care Hair Cuticle Coat Conditioner 206

Ethnic Hair Care Pump Spray-On MoisturizindOil-Sheens

Moisturizing Sheen 207

Ethn ic Hair Care Pump Spray-On Moisturizing/Oil-Sheens

Extra Sheen 207

Ethnic Hair GlossedConditioner 208

Ethnic Pump Spray Conditioner 208

Ethnic Hair GlosserBxtra Conditioning 209

Ethnic air Care Extra Conditioning Coat Conditioner 209

Extra Hold Conditioning Mousse 210

Leave-On Hair Conditioner 210

Firm Hold Hairspray 211

High Performance Styling Spray 211

Gel Curl Activator 212

Alcohol Free Styling Gel pH:

7.2

212

Guanidine No Base Relaxer 213

Potassium Relaxer 213

Hair Brushing Lotion 214

Hair Conditioner 215

Hair Conditioner with Moisturizers and Quatemium-79

Hydrolyzed Animal Protein 216

High Quality Conditioner 216

Hair Conditioning Gel 217

Hair Conditioner with CAE 217

Hair Conditioning Lotion 218

Clear Hair Conditioner Lotion 218

Hair Conditioning Gel 218

Hair Cream 219

Hair Tonic 219

Hair Dressing W/O Cold Process 220

Hair Styling Gel 220

Hair Gloss to Control Gel Concentrate 221

Iridescent Hair Gel Concentrate 221

Hair Pomade 222

Hair Re lax er4 lyc er in e 223

Hair Rela xer-G lyco l 223

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 12/553

mi

Contents and Subject Index

Hair Straightener

225

Conditioning Styling Gel 225

High Petrolatum Mousse Aerosol

226

Hot Oil Hair Treatment Mousse 226

Hot Oil Conditioner

227

Hot Oil Super Conditioner

227

Soft Glossing Spritz 227

Intensive Conditioning Pomade

228

Light Oil Free Conditioner

228

Intensive Hair Conditioner 229

Salon Strength Hair Conditioner

229

Leave-On Scalp and Hair Conditioner 230

Extra Hold Conditioning Mousse

230

Light Oil Free Conditioner

231

Aloe Vera air Conditioner (Light)

231

Low Cost Relaxer 232

Extra Stable Relaxer

232

Medium Hold,

80

VOC Pump Hair Spray

233

55

VOC Pump Hair Spray

233

Medium Strength Hair Conditioner

234

Medium Hair Conditioner

234

Moisture Balance Conditioner w/Cropeptide

W 235

Leave-On Conditioner Concentrate

235

Natural Lipid Conditioner for Professional Salon 236

Mild Opaque Conditioner

236

Mild Pearl Conditioner 236

Non-Aerosol Hair Spray with Protein

237

Hair Rinse for Stressed Hair

237

Pearly Lotion Conditioner 238

Protein Lotion Conditioner

238

Spray Leave-On Conditioner

238

Pump Gel Type Spritz

239

Moisturizing Hair Styling Gel 239

Pump Spray Hair Detangler

240

Hot Oil Treatment

240

Ringing Gel 24

Micro Emulsion Ringing Gel

241

Salon Type Hair Conditioner

242

Silicone Hair Gel 243

Shebu Hair Setting Gel

243

Stiff Holding Hairspray

244

Aerosol Shaping Hairspray 244

StylingIConditioning Mousse 245

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 13/553

Contents

and

Subject Index xvii

Hair Straightening Cream

245

Styling Mousse

X22176-106

(Hydroalcoholic)

Styling Mousse X22176-107 (Alcohol-Free)

Water-Based Hair Spray

X21980-057

(Pump)

Water-Based Hair Spray

X21980-058

(Aerosol)

247

Wheat erm Foaming Conditioner

248

Natural Lipid Styling Mousse

248

Pump Type Hair Spray

248

55 VOC Aerosol Hair Spray

249

80 VO C Non-Aerosol Hair Spray

249

80

VOC Hair Spray

250

55 VOC Aerosol Hair Spray

250

80

VOC Hair Spray

251

High Humidity Hair Spray 251

80

VOC Aerosol Shaper Hair Spray

252

High Solids

80

VOC Hair Spray

252

246

246

247

SECTION

W

OTIONS

253

After Exercise Body Lotion

254

Therapeutic Humectant Lotion 254

Alcoholic Milk Lotion

255

Milk Lotion 255

Alpha Hydroxy Acid Lotion

256

Alpha Hydroxy Acid Lotion 257

Banana Hand Lotion

258

O W

Lotion 258

Behenyl Hand Lotion

259

Velvet 44-Behenyl Lotion

259

Body Lotion

260

Body Lotion

261

Moisturizing Hand Lotion

261

Concentrated Alpha Hydroxy Acid Lotion

262

Deep Skin Cleansing Lotion

263

Hand Lotion 263

Deep Moisturizing Lotion

264

Hand and Body Lotion

264

Emollient Lotion

265

Hand and Body Lotion

265

European O/W Cleansing Lotion 266

Water/Oil Cleansing Lotion

266

Gentle Moisturizing Alpha Hydroxy Acid Lotion

267

Emollient Lotion

O/W

Cold Process

260

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 14/553

xviii Contents and Subject Index

Soft Hand Lotion 27 1

Hand and Body Lotion 272

Jojoba Lotion 272

High Petrolatum Lotion 273

Low Irritation Moisturizing Lotion

273

Hydroalcoholic Mineral Oil Emulsion 274

Mineral Oil Lotion 274

Hydrogen Peroxide Lotion 275

Hydrogen Peroxide Lotion 275

Isopropyl Myristate Lotion 276

Vanishing Lotion 276

Lanolin and Aloe Lotion 277

Lotion 278

Glossy Lotion 278

Low Solids Almond Lotion I 279

Peach Hand Lotion 279

Milk Lotion 280

Mineral Oil Lotion 282

Mineral O il L o t i o n 4 / W 282

Mineral Oil Free Lotion Contains Ethanol (20%) 28 3

Lotion 283

Moisturizing Lotion 284

Pomade Lotion 284

Neutralizing Lotion 285

Quick Dry Roll-On Lotion 285

O/W Broad Spectrum Protective Moisturizing Lotion

with Vitamins 286

O/W Lotion 287

O/W Lotion with a-Hydroxy Acids 289

O/W Lotion Cold/Cold Process 289

Oil-in-Water Body Care Lotion 290

OiWJater Foundation Lotion 290

O iW a te r Emollient Lotion 291

Perfumed Body Lotion 292

Silk Protein Skin Lotion 293

Pearlescent Bath Lotion 293

Skin Care Body Lotion 294

Skin Moisturizing Lotion 295

Dry Skin Lotion 295

Skin Softening Lotion 296

Skin Lotion 296

Soft and Silky Lotion 297

Low Cost Low Solids Lotion 297

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 15/553

Contents and Subject Index xix

Apricot Hand Lotion 298

Super Moisturizing Lotion 299

IRF Facial Lotion 300

Facial Moisturizing Lotion (W/O) 300

Ultra Moisturizing Lotion 30 1

Un-Buffered Alpha Hydroxy Acid Lotion 302

Body Lotion 303

W/O

Lotion with Eldew 304

Mild Lotion with Amihope 304

W/O Lotion 303

S E W O N

VIII:

SHAMPOOS

305

Acid Balanced Conditioning Shampoo 306

All Purpose Shampoo 306

Aloe Vera Gel Shampoo 306

Aloe Vera Premium-Type Shampoo with Protein 307

Anti-Dandruff Lotion Shampoo 308

Anti-Dandruff Shampoo Cream Type 308

Anti-Dandruff Shampoo 309

Cleaning Shampoo Type 309

Anti-Dandruff Shampoos 310

Shampoos for Greasy Hair 310

Antidandruff Shampoo 311

Protein Shampoo

311

Balsam and Protein Shampoo

Cleaning Shampoo 313

Conditioning Shampoo 314

Conditioning Shampoo 316

Cold Mix Shampoo w/Crosultaine C-50

Conditioning Shampoo 317

Everyday Hair Shampoo 317

Conditioning Shampoo 318

Gentle Shampoo 318

Conditioning Shampoo 319

Mild Conditioning Shampoo 319

Cream Shampoo 320

Highly Pearlescent Shampoo 320

Emollient Shampoo 32 1

Moisturizing Shampoo

321

Shampoo Concentrate 32 1

312

Professional Salon Type Shampoo 315

316

Ethn ic Hair Care Amphoteric Shampoo (Cold Process) Clear 322

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 16/553

  Contents and Subject Index

Gel Shampoo

324

Mild Conditioning Shampoo 324

Conditioning Shampoo

324

Hair Shampoo. Dilutable Viscous Shampoo For Customer

(Dilution

1:4 325

Viscous Consumer Shampoo 325

Transparent Shampoo 325

Hair Shampoo. Clear 32.6

Hair Shampoo. Clear

327

Hair Shampoos. Pearlescent 327

Hair Shampoo with Conditioner

328

Hair Shampoo with Conditioner for Everyday Use

328

Herbal Shampoo. Pearlescent 329

Highly Concentrated Hair Shampoo

329

High Foaming 2 n Shampoo 330

Silicone Free 2:l Shampoo 330

Light Conditioning Shampoo

331

Low

pH. Protein Gel Shampoo 333

Mild Conditioning Shampoo

333

Economy Shampoo

333

Moisture Balance Shampoo with Cropeptide W 335

Shampoo with Tritisol 335

Vitamin Shampoos

336

Shampoo for Dry Hair

336

Salon Conditioning Shampoo 337

Salon Style Shampoo

338

2 n High Conditioning Shampoo 338

Shampoo for Permed Hair 339

Pearlescent Shampoo Concentrate

339

Neutralizer Shampoo 339

Sport Shampoo 340

Herbal Shampoo Against Greasy air

340

Two in One Shampoo

341

Three in One Shampoo 344

Wheat and Sesame Shampoo

346

Detangling Shampoo 346

Wheat Germ Conditioning Shampoo

347

No-Sting 2: Shampoo 347

Lotion Shampoo 325

Hair Shampoo

326

Mild Shampoo

334

Protein Shampoos

336

Stripper Shampoo

347

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 17/553

Contents

and

Subject

Index xx

SECTION IX

SHAVING

PRODUCTS 348

Aerosol Shaving Cream 349

Nonionic Aerosol Foam 349

After Shave Balm 350

Shave Gel 350

After Shave Conditioner 351

Alcohol Free After Shave Lotion 352

Conditioning After Shave Toner 352

Brushless Shave Cream 353

Emulsion for Shaving 354

Soap Free-Nonionic Shaving Emu1

354

Hemostatic After Shave 355

Shaving Foam

355

Shaving Creme 356

Shaving Gel 356

Ultra Aerosol Shave Cream for Sensitive

Skin

357

SECTION

X SOAPS AND

HAND CLEANERS 358

Economy Heavy-Duty and Cleaners

359

Emulsion Cleaner 360

Waterless Hand Cleaner 360

Emulsion Cleaner and Waterless Hand Cleaner Emulsion

Cleaner 361

Waterless and Cleaner 36 1

Fast Set Waterless Hand Cleaner with d-Limonene F-453 362

Clear Gel d-Limonene Waterless Hand Cleaner F-454

Hand Cleaning Paste 363

Hand Cleaning Cream. Free of Solvents 363

Hand Cleaning Cream with Solvent

363

Hand Cleaners from Concentrate

Economy 364

Pearlescent 364

Premium 364

Lotion 364

Glucopon and

AS

365

Glucopon and

LAS

365

Glucopon and

AES

365

Glucopon and AOS 365

Liquid Hand Soap Concentrate (Antimicrobial) 366

Waterless Hand Cleaner (Gel) 366

Waterless Hand Cleaner (Lotion) 366

Industrial and Institutional Liquid Hand Soaps

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 18/553

xvii Contents and Subject Index

Cream Soap (Requires Heat) 367

Liquid and Soap 367

Liquid Soap 368

Liquid Synthetic Soaps 369

Liquid Soap with Aloe Vera Gel 370

Pearlescent Liquid Hand Soap 370

Low Cost Clear Cleansing Bar 37 1

Shower Soap

371

Medicated

Skin

Cleaner 372

Heavy-Duty Hand Cleaner 372

Mild Lotion Soap

373

Liquid Hand Soap 373

Premium Emollient Hand Soap 374

Hand Cleaner 374

Water Free Hand Cleaner 376

Waterless Hand Cleaner 376

Waterless Hand Cleaner No 390 378

Liquid Waterless Hand Cleaner No 243 378

SECTION XI: SUN CARE PRODUCTS

379

Absorbing Sunscreen 380

Synergistic Sunscreen 380

Absorbing Sunscreen 381

Water Resistant SP4 Sunscreen Composition 381

Non-Alcoholic Sunscreen 38 1

After Sun Lotion 382

Solar Tanning Oil Mousse

382

Aloe After Sun Lotion (40% Aloe) 383

Suntan Lotion 383

Aloe Suntan Lotion 384

After Sun Lotion 384

Buffered Self Tanning Lotion 385

Cooling After Sun Lotion 386

Suntan Lotion 386

Daily UV Protection Lotion (Approximate SPF 18) 387

European O/W Sun Protection Cream 388

O/W

Moisturizing Sunscreen Cream 388

Lip Balm with Sunscreen-A 389

Lip Balm with Sunscreen-B 389

Non-Chemical Sunscreen Lotion (Approximate SPF 15) 390

O/W After Sun Milk 391

W/O After Sun Cream

391

O N

Cream (SPF 5 ) (UVA/UVB Ratio 0.91) 392

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 19/553

Contents and

Subject

Index xxiii

O/W Hydroalcoholic Sunscreen 393

W/O Sunscreen (SPF 17) 393

394

W/O Sunscreen Cream 394

O/W Sunscreen Lotion 395

O/W Emollient Sunscreen Lotion 396

O/W

Sunscreen Lotion (SPF 12) 39 7

O/W Sunscreen Lotion (SPF 15) 398

O N

Sunscreen Lotion (SPF 10) 398

W /O Sunscreen Lotion (SPF 20) 399

O/W Vitaminized Broad Spectrum Sunscreen Lotion

Indicative SPF 8 400

Indicative SPF

25t

401

Indicative SPF 15 402

Solar Tanning Cream 403

Solar Tanning Cream High Protection 404

Tanning Jelly 404

Solar Tanning Cream Super Protection 405

Jojoba After Sun Lotion 405

Solar Tanning Lotion-A 406

Solar Tanning Lotion-B 406

Solar Tanning Lotion-C 407

Solar Tanning Lotion-D 407

Solar Tanning Lotion High Protection 408

Solar Tanning Lotion Super Protection 408

Solar Tanning Oil-A 409

Solar Tanning Oil-B 409

Solar Tanning Oil-C 409

Solar Tanning Oil-D 409

Solar Tanning Stick White Color 410

Solar Tanning Stick Tan Color 410

Sun Block

Soft

Cream ( O W ) Tested SPF 26 411

Sun Filter Foam 412

After Sun Stick 412

Sun Protection Lotion 413

Sunscreen with Amihope 415

W/O SPF20 Sunscreen with Elder 415

Sunscreen Balm (Cold Processing) SPF 8

(DIN

67501) 416

Sunscreen Cream 417

W /O Sunscreen Cream 418

Sunscreen Cream Water-in-Oil (Expected SPF 1 5 t ) 419

Skin Bronzing Cream 419

O/W Moisturizing Sunscreen Cream

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 20/553

xr v Contents and Subject Index

Sun Screen Cream W/O 421

Sun Screen Cream W/O. Oily 422

Self Tanning Lotion 422

Sunscreen Cream 423

Suntan Cream 424

425

425

Sunscreen Gel SP F 6 (FDA-OTC) 426

Sunscreen Lotion 427

Sunscreen Lotion 429

O/W Emollient Sunscreen Lotion 429

Sunscreen Lotion (o/w)

SPF 6 (DIN 67501) 430

SPF

11 (DIN

67501) 431

SPF 4

(DIN

67501) 432

SPF 10 (DIN 67501)

434

waterproof 435

Sunscreen Gel (approx SPF 10)

Sunscreen Gel (approx SPF 12)

Sunscreen Lotion (approx SPF 15) 428

SPF

18

(FDA-OTC) 433

Sunscreen Lotion (o/w) (cold processing) SPF 6 (FDA-OTC)

Sunscreen Lotion

(o/w)

SP F 30 (FDA-OTC) 436

Tested SPF 10 437

Tested SPF 16 438

SP F 6 (FDA-OTC). waterproof

439

Tested SPF 11 440

Sunscreen Moisturizing Cream 441

Tanning Accelerator 442

Sun Screen Stick 442

Titanium Dioxide Based Waterproof Sunscreen SPF 1 2 (tested)

443

Ultra Violet Absorbing Sunscreen 444

Unbuffered Self Tanning Cream 445

Waterproof Sun Protection Lotion (with 8% Titanium

Dioxide) SPF 15 446

W O Sunscreen Lotion SPF 22 446

Waterproof Sunscreen

Gel ve st ed SPF 30) 447

Spray Mist SPF 16 (Tested) 447

W/O Emulsion SPF 22 (Static) SPF 21 (Waterproof) 448

W/O Emulsion SPF 15 448

SPF3.5

449

Waterproof W/O Sunscreen Lotion Base

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 21/553

Contents and Subject Index

xx

Waterproof W/O Sunscreen Lotion

S P F 2 1 4 5 0

S P F 1 5 4 5 0

S P F 1 7 4 5 1

With 8% Titanium Dioxide, SPF 12 451

Water Resistant Sunscreen 452

W/O SPF 15 Sunscreen with Ajidew and Eldew 454

Sunscreen Lip Balm with Eldew 454

W/O SPF 15 Sunscreen with Ajidew and Eldew 455

W/O Sunscreen Lotion SPF-18 456

W/O Sunscreen Lotion SPF-17 456

Waterproof W/O Sun Protection Lotion

SECTION

XII:

MISCELLANEOUS

457

Aloe Medicated Gel With Alcohol (SDA 39C) 458

Aloe Medicated

Gel

Without Alcohol 458

Cetylpyridinium Chloride Mouthwash 459

Spearmint Mouthwash 459

Clear Gel Without DEA 460

Silicone Emulsion 460

Clear Ringing Gel 46 1

Clear Gel Base 461

Cream Sachet 462

Liquid Cologne 462

Solid Cologne 462

High-Luster Toothpaste 463

Denture Cleaner 463

Hydrophilic O/W Ointment Base 464

Emollient Anhydrous Ointment 464

W/O Ointment Base 464

Washable Anhydrous Base 464

Jojoba Massage Oil 465

Massage Oil 465

Micro-Emulsions with Aloe Vera and d-Limonene 466

Modified Petrolatum 467

Washable Oil 467

Ointment Base 468

Anhydrous Ointment 468

Zinc Oxide Ointment-Anhydrous 468

O W Ointment Base 469

Oil-in-Water-in-Silicone Emulsion 470

Protein-Lecithin Complex Emulsion 470

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 22/553

m Contents and Subject Index

Pharmaceutical Ointment Base

471

Washable Oil

472

Wound Healing Accelerator 474

Massage Gel

474

Petrolatum Stick

474

W/O Ointment Base

475

SECTION

XLLI

TRADE-NAMED RAW MATERIALS

476

SECTION XIV:SUPPLIERS' ADDRESSES 526

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 23/553

Section

I

Antiperspirants and

Deodorants

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 24/553

  osmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Aluminum Chlorohydrate Antiperspirant Stick

I n s r e d i e n t s :

A

Dow Co rn i n g 345 f l u i d

Arlamol ISML

S t e a r y l a l c o h o l

A luminum ch lo ro hy dr a t e powder

H yd ro ge na te d c a s t o r o i l

w w

45.00

10.00

15.00

25.00

5.00

B *Fragrance

q.

s. t h es e i n g r e d i e n t s .

Procedure :

m i x t h o r o u g h l y . C oo l t o j u s t above

s,

7 i n t and pa cka ge i n

a n t i p e r s p i r a n t s t i c k c o n t a in e r s .

Heat a l l i n g r e d i e n t s t i l l t he y a i 11 l i q u i d (app . 72C) and

Formula

C P

1085

Aluminum Chlorohydrate Antiperspirant Stick

I n a r e d i e n t s :

A Dow C o rn in g 345 f l u i d

S t e a r y l a l c o h o l

A luminum ch lo ro hy dr a t e powder

H yd ro ge na te d c a s t o r o i l

w w

45.00

25.00

2 5 -0 0

5 . 0 0

B

*Fragrance

* q .

s

t h e s e g r e d i e n t s

.

Heat a l l i n g r e d i e n t s

t i l l

t h e y a r e a l l l i q u i d (a pp . 72C) and

Formula

CP

1086

Procedure :

m ix t h o r o u g h l y . Cool t o j u s t above s e t p o i n t and package i n

a n t i p e r sp i r a n t s t i c k c o n t a in e r s .

Aluminum Chlorohydrate Antiper

I n g r e d i e n t s :

A

Dow

C o rn in g 344 f l u i d

Ar lamol ISML

S t e a r y l a l c o h o l

R eh ei s m i c r o d r y

C as to rw ax , h y dr o ge n at ed c a s t o r o i l

w/w

45.00

10.00

15.00

25.00

5.00

Procedure :

m ix t h o r o u g h l y . C ool t o j u s t above s e t p o i n t and package i n

a n t i p e r s p i r a n t s t i c k c o n t a in e r s .

SOURCE: I C 1

S u r f a c t a n t s : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n s

Heat a l l i n g r e d i e n t s t i l l t h e y a r e a l l l i q u i d (a pp . 72C) and

Formula

PC

8220

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 25/553

Antiperspirants and Deodorants

Antiperspirant

I n a r e d i e n t s :

V o l a t i l e s i l i c o n e ,

D . C .

344 f l u i d

Arlamol ISML

S t e a r y l a l c o h o l

A luminum ch lo r oh yd ra te powder , M ic r o - d r y

Castor wax

45.00

10.00

15.00

25.00

5 .00

Procedure :

and m ix t h o r u g h l y . C ool t o j u s t above s e t p o i n t and p acka ge

i n a n t ip e r sp r a n t s t i c k c o n t a i n e r s .

Heat a l l i n g r e d i e n t s

t i l l

t h e y a r e a l l l i q u i d ( ap p. 72C)

I n s r e d i e n t s :

V o l a t i l e s i 1

Arlamol ISML

Antiperspirant

cone, D . C . 344 f l u i d

48.50

10.00

A1

Z r

Te t ra c h l o ro h y d r e x - g l y , Rez al 36

GP,

super

u l r a f e

20.00

S t e a r y l a l c o h o l

16.00

Hydrogenated Castor

O i l

5 .00

Fragrance , Sp i cy l i m e 4851-AN, IF F 0 .50

Procedure:

m ix t h o r o u g h l y . C oo l t o j u s t a bove s e t p o i n t and p ackag e i n

a n t i p e r s p i r a n t s t i c k c on ta in e rs .

Heat a l l i n g r e d i e n t s

t i l l

t h e y a r e a l l l i q u i d ( ap p. 72C) and

Aerosol Antiperspirant

I n s r e d i e n t s :

A

Q ua te rn iu m- 18 h e c t o r i t e g e l

A r l a m o l

E

C yc lo me th ic on e, V o l a t i l e s i l i c o n e 7207

A r l a c e l

80

8.00

3.00

3.00

0.50

B

Aluminum ch lo ro hy dr a t e , Mac ro spher i ca l 95

6.00

C H yd ro ca rb on p r o p e l l a n t , p r o p e l l a n t A-46 7 9. 50

Procedure :

Mix

( A )

th or ou gh ly w i t h medium sheer equ ipment . Add

B )

a t

a s lo w s t e a d y r a t e and m ix t h o r o u g h l y . F i l l vacuum crimp and

c ha rg e ae r o so l u n i t s w i t h ( C ) .

SOURCE:

IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : S ug ge st ed F o r m u l a t i o n s

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 26/553

4

Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations

Anti-Perspirant Cream

I n s r e d i e n t s :

A A r l a c e l 165, a c i d s t a b l e g .m .s .

C e t y l a l c o h o l

B Water, de i on i zed

A lu min um c h l o r h y d r o x i d e c om pl ex , 50% s o l u t i o n

Procedure :

a g i t a t i o n .

S t i r

u n t i l s e t .

Hea t (A ) t o 70C. He a t ( 6 ) t o 72C. Add ( 6 ) t o (A ) w i t h

Anti-Perspirant Cream

I n g r e d i e n t s :

A

A r l a c e l 1 6 5

Spermacet i

B G l y c e r o l

Water, de i on i zed

C

T i t a n iu m d i o x i d e

D Aluminum ch lo rhyd rox ide comp lex

E *Perfume

q . s .

t he s e i n g r e d i e n t s .

5 .00

5 .00

50.00

40.00

18.00

5.00

5.00

53 .00

1 - 0 0

18.00

Procedure :

Heat (A) and

6)

o 80C. a nd add (6 ) t o ( A ) w i t h a g i t a t i o n .

S t i r f o r 15 m in ut es and add (C) s l o w ly , c o n t in u e t o a g i t a t e

and c o o l t o

4 0 C .

Add ( D ) and c on t i nu e t o a g i t a t e u n t i l m i x t u r e

i s homogenous. Add

( E )

and s t i r .

O il/W ater An tiperspirant C ream

I n q r e d i e n t s :

A S t e a r i c ac id , t r i p l e pre s s e d

Beeswax

M in er a l o i l

A r l a c e l

60

Tween 60

B

Water, de i on i zed

C

Aluminum Ch lo r hy d r a t e , 50% s o l

*Perfume

* q . s .

t h es e i n g r e d i e n t s .

14 .00

2.00

1

. o o

5.00

5.00

33 .00

40.00

Procedure :

w h i l e s t i r r i n g . M ix w h i l e c o o l i n g t o 40 deg.

C .

Add (C) and

c o n t i n ue m i x i n g u n t i 1 c o o l .

Heat (A) t o 85 deg.

C

and (6 ) t o 8 5 d eg .

C .

Add

6 )

o ( A )

SOURCE: IC1

S u r f a c t a n t s : S ug ge st ed F o r m u l a t i o n s

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 27/553

Antiperspirants and Deodorants 5

Antiperspirant Roll-On

I n n r e d i e n t s :

A

Ar lamo l

E

Arlamol ISML

B r i j

721

B r i j 72

B

Water

C

A1 umi num

Z i

r c o n i

u m

Tet ra Ch lorohydrex-GLY

D * P r e s e r v a t i v e

*Fragrance

q.

s .

t h e s e g r e d i e n t s

.

( 50 % aqueous s o l u t i o n )

96

w /w

3 .00

4.00

1 . 5 0

2 . 5 0

49 00

40.00

Procedure :

t y p e a g i t a t i o n . Add

( C )

a t a bout 50C and

D )

a t abo ut 45C. Add

wate r a t 35C t o compensa te

f o r

l o s s due t o e v a p o r at i o n .

Heat

( A )

t o 60C and 6 ) t o 65C. Add

8) o

(A) u s i n g p r o p e l l e r

Package.

Formula

AD-3

Roll-On Antiperspirant

I n a r e d i e n t s

:

A Ar lamo l

I S M L

Ar lamo l

E

B r i j

721

B r i j

72

B

Wa t e r , d e i o n i z e d

C

Aluminum ch lo rohydra te

(50%

s o l u t i o n ) , W i ck en o l 303

D

Germaben

I 1

q . s .

t he s e i n g r e d i e n t s .

Procedure :

w/w

3 .00

3 . 0 0

1 . 5 0

2 .50

49.00

40.00

1 . o o

Heat

( A )

t o 60C and (6 ) t o 6%. Add

8 )

t o

( A )

u s i n g

p r o p e l l e r t y p e a g i t a t i o n . Add ( C) a t a b ou t 50C and

D )

a t

about

45C.

Add wat er a t 35C

t o

compensate

f o r

l o s s due t o

eva por at n. Package

.

SOURCE: IC1

Su r f a c t a n t s : Sug ge st ed Fo rm u l a t i o n s

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 28/553

 

Cosmetic

  and

  oiletry  Formulations

Antiperspirant Stick

I n g r e d i e n t s :  W/W

A  B r i j  721  2.30

Arlamol  E

  11.50

Isopropyl  myr i s tat e

  &

  s t e a r a l k o n i u r n

  h e c t or i t e

  5.70

Ozokerite

 wax  22.40

M y r i s t y l

  a l c o h o l  17.20

B

  A l u m i n u m Z i r c o n i u m

  t r i chlorohyd rat e

  23.00

C

  Cy clometh icone  17.90

*q.s. t h es e i n g r e d i e n t s .

Procedure:

Heat

 (A) to 65 deg. C and (B) to 68 deg. C. Add (B) to (A)

w i t h

  agi tat ion

 and   i m m e d i a t e l y   ad d

 (C).

 S t i r

 to 50

 deg.

 C and

pour in to molds.

Oil In Water

 Antiperspirant

 Lotion

I n g r e d i e n t s :  W/W

A

  Cetyl  alcohol  0.50

A r l a m o l   E  3.00

B r i j 72  2.00

Brij 721  1.00

B Water

  58.50

*Preservative

C  A l u m i n u m   c hlor h y d r ox i d e ,  50

aqueous

  s o l u t i o n   35.00

*q.s.  the s e

 i n g r e d i e n t s .

Procedure:

Heat

  (A) to 85

 d e g.

 C and (B) to 85

 deg.

 . Add (B) to (A)

w h i l e

 s t i r r i n g.

  Mi x  w h i le

 coolin g

 to 40 deg. C. Add (C) and

c o n t i n u e   m i x i n g   u n t i l

  cool.

Formula

 AD-5

Anti Perspirant Lotion

I n g r e d i e n t s :

  W/W

A

  Arlacel

 165,

 acid st able

 g.m.s.  15.00

Water,

  deionized   45.00

B

  A l u m u n u m

  chlorhydroxide complex,

 50

solution

  40.00

Procedure:

Heat  (A) to

 7OC.

  Heat   (B) to 72C. Add (B) to (A)

  w i t h

 rapi d

agitation.

  Cool to  room

  t empe rature wi t h s t i r r i n g .

SOURCE:   ICI

 Surfactants: Suggested Formulati ons

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 29/553

Antiperspirants and Deodorants

Deodorant

A . I m w i t o r

960

f l a k e s

S o f t i s a n 645

Hostaphat

K L 340 N

C e t y l a l c o h o l

Raluben TL

A1 umi num a c e t a t e

B . Ka r i o n F

H o s t a c e r i n g e l 1%*

B e n z y l a l c o h o l

Water

Wt

6 . 0

5 . 0

5 . 0

2.0

0 . 5

0 . 5

5 . 0

12.0

1

. o

t o 100.0

C . Perfume

q s

Pre p a ra t n

:

b r o u g h t t o t h e same t em p e r a t u re and a dded s l o w l y t o A . w i t h

s t i r r i n g . C . i s added a t a pp ro x.

3 0 C .

The i n g r e d i e n t s o f A . a r e he at ed t o 75-BOC. Tho se o f

B.

a r e

* P r ep a r at i on o f t h e H os t ac e r i n g e l : H o s t a c e r i n PN 73 1 . 0 %

Water t o 100 .0%

The H o s t a c e r i n i s mi xe d w i t h w a t e r u n t i l homogeneous a nd t h e

m ix tu re s t i r r e d u n t i l t h e g e l i s c l e a r .

A .

M i g l y o l 8 1 2

Dynasan 114

Dynasan 110

I m w i t o r 960 f l a k e s

Beeswax

B.

Perfume

Ac t e g

r

ed n t

3 0 . 0

20 .0

1 8 . 5

1o;o

2 0 . 0

P r e p a r a t i on

:

The i n g r e d i e n t s o f

A .

ar e me l ted a t 75C and a t abou t 40C

p e rf um e i s added, t h e m i x i s ho mo ge nis ed an d c a s t i n t o m o ul ds .

SOURCE:

H u l s A m er ic a I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n s

f o r

Cosmetics: Formulas

Deodorant Stick

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 30/553

  Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

M a t e r i a l s :

1 .

Cyc lometh icone

2 . S t e a r y l A l c o h o l

3 .

A r l a c e l 1 6 5

4 .

T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e 3 3 2 8

5 . Be nt on e G el VS-5 Rh e o l o g i c a l A d d i t i v e

6 . A lu minu m Ch l o r o h y d r a t e (M i c ro n i z e d )

7 . T a l c

8

Fra g ra n c e

bv Weight

39.7

2 2 . 0

2 . 0

0 . 2

1 0 . 0

2 5 . 0

1 . o

0 . 1

M a n uf a ct u r i n g D i r e c t i o n s

A . He at t h e Cy c lo m e th i co n e t o 65C.

B .

W i th s t i r r i n g , s l o w l y add i n g r e d i e n t 2, m a i n t a i n i n g t h e temp-

e r a t u r e a t 65C t h r u s t e p

E

C . When a l l o f i n g r e d i e n t

2

i s m e lt ed , add i n g r e d i e n t s

3

and

4 . M ix f o r 15 m i n u t e s .

D . Add Bentone Gel VS-5 Rh eo lo g ic a l A d d i t i v e and mix f o r 30

m i n u t e s .

E .

A d d i n g r e d i e n t s

6

and

7 ,

m i x f o r 30 m i n u t e s .

F . A l l o w t h e b a t c h t o co o l t o 55C, add F ra g ra n ce , m i x f o r

5

m i nu te s and po ur i n t o s u i t a b l e c o n t a i n e r s .

Formula TS-289

M a t e r i a l s :

1 .

Bentone Gel VS-5 R heo log i ca l A d d i t i v e

2 . Cyc lometh i cone

3 . SDA

A l c o h o l

4 0

4 .

I s o p r op y l M y r i s t a t e

5 . A luminum Ch l o ro hyd ra t e

6 . F rag rance

bv Wei q h t

1 5 . 0

54 0

3 . 0

2 . 0

25.0

1 . o

M a n u fa c tu r in g D i r e c t i o n s :

A .

Combine th e Bentone Gel VS-5 w i t h i n g r e d ie n ts 2 and 3 us in g

B .

Ad d i n g re d i e n t

4 ,

t h en i n g r e d i e n t 5 , w i t h c on st an t a g i t a t i o n .

C .

Add i n g r e d i e n t 6 .

Formula TS-288

SOURCE:

Rheox, I n c ,

:

Su gg e st ed Fo rm u l a t i o n s

v ig o r ou s a g i t a t i o n . M ix u n t i l u n i fo r m .

M ix u n t i l t h e powder i s u n i f o r m l y d i s t r i b u t e d .

Dry Antiperspirant Stick

Quick Drying Roll-On Antiperspirant

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 31/553

Antiperspirants and Deodorants 9

Dry Roll-On Antiperspirant

M a t e r i a l s :

1 .

Bentone Gel

I P M

r h e o l o g i c a l a d d i t i v e

2

SDA

40

3. I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e

4 . Cy c l o m e t h i c o n e

5 . A1 umi num C h lo r o h y d r a t e

6 . F ra g ra n c e

by We iqh t

1 5 . 0

3 . 0

2 . 0

5 4 . 0

25 .0

1

. o

M a n uf a ct u r i n g D i r e c t i o n s :

1 .

Combine t h e B e nt on e G el IPM a d d i t i v e w i t h i n g r e d i e n t s

2 , 3

and o n e - h a l f o f i n g r e d i e n t 4 i n a m ix in g k e t t l e . M ix u n t i l

u n i f or m . Add t h e r e m ai n in g p o r t i o n o f i n g r e d i e n t 4, c o n t i n u e

m i

x i n g .

i s u n i fo rm l y d i s t r i b u t e d .

2 .

Add i n g r e d i e n t 5

w i t h

a g i t a t i o n , s t i r r i n g

until

t h e powder

3 .

Add t h e f r a g ra n c e , m i x ,

f i l l

u n i t s .

Formula TS-237

Talc Spray Antiperspirant

Ma te r i a1

s :

1 .

B en to ne G el I PM r h e o l o g i c a l a d d i t i v e

2 . SDA 40

3 .

I s o p r o p y l M y ri s t a t e

4 .

Cyc lometh i cone

5 .

Aluminum Ch lo rohydra te

6 . T a l c

7 .

Fragrance

8 . P r o p e l l a n t A-46

by Wei q h t

8 . 0

2 . 0

1 . 5

5 . 0

6 . 0

2 . 0

0 . 5

75.00

M a n u fa c tu r in g D i r e c t i o n s :

1 .

C o m b i n e i n g r e d i e n t s

1

t h r o u g h

4

an d t h o r o u g h l y m i x u s i n g

2 .

Add i n g r e d i e n t s 5 a nd

6

a t a s lo w r a t e and m ix i n th o r o u g h ly .

3 , Add f rag ra nc e and m i x .

4. F i l l , v acuum c r i m p and gas ae r o s o l u n i t s .

Formula TS-245

S O U R C E :

Rheox, I n c . : Sug ge st ed Fo r m u l a t i o n s

medium shear equipment.

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 32/553

 O Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations

General Purpose Stick Formulation-1

I n g r e d i e n t s ;

A-C

Po l y e t h y l e n e 617A

A c e t y l a t e d L an ol i n A l co h o l

O z o k e r i t e ( 1 7 0 D) * *

M i n e r a l

O i l ( 7 0 s s * * *

Span 60

C l o u d P o i n t ,

C : 80

General Purpose Stick Formulation-2

I n a r e d i e n t s :

A - C Po lye thye lene 617A

A c e t y l a t e d L a n o l i n A l c o h o l *

O z o k e r i t e ( 1 7 0 D) * *

M i n e r a l

O i l

(70

s s ) * * *

Span 60

C l o u d P o i n t ,

C :

76

wt

8

16

16

55

5

E

7

14

14

60

5

Procedure :

p o i n t u n t i l s o l u t i o n t u r n s c l e a r . Around 60-70C, add p er fu me ,

a lu min um c h l o ro h y d r a t e a nd p r e s e r v a t i v e . De a e ra t e an d p a ck ag e .

M a n u f a c t u r e r s :

Heat a l l i n g r e d i e n t s w i t h s l ow a g i t a t i o n 2-5C above i t s c l o u d

Malms trom Chemica l, Ac e t o l , o r Amerchol , Ace tu la n

Ross

Wax o r equ i v a l en t

W i

t c o Che mi ca l Ca rn a t i o n

M i

n e r a l

O i 1 ,

o r e q u i Val e n t

Stick Ant iperspirant

I n g r e d i e n t s :

1 . A-C

400

2 . I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e

3 . Dow Corning

S i

1

i cone 344

4 . S t e a r y l A l c o h o l

5 . A1 umi num Ch l o r o h y d r a t e

6. Per fume

P a r t s ,

W t .

15

50

15

20

15

Q.S

Procedure :

S t i r

u n t i l wax b l e n d i s u n i f o r m . Add 5 and s t i r i n . Cool

m i x t u r e down t o 55C and add Perfum e.

SOURCE:

A l l i e d S i g n a l I n c . : S ug ge sted F o r mu l at i on s

Weigh 1 -4 and h e a t u n t i l

A -C 400

has d i s s o l v e d o r m e l t e d .

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 33/553

Antiperspirants and Deodorants

Ro ll-On An tiperspirant

T h i s l ow v i s c o s i t y e mu ls io n i s s t a b i l i z e d w i t h Veegum HV

w hic h a l s o p r o v i d e s m ode rate t h i c k e n i n g and e x c e l l e n t , d r y

a f t e r - f e e l . The A l um i n um / Z ir c on i u m Complex h as h i g h e r a n t i -

p e r s p i r a n t e f f i c a c y t h a n a1 umi num c h l o r o h y d r a t e .

I n a r e d i e n t :

A Veegum

H V ,

Magnesium Aluminum S i l i c a t e

Dei on i zed Water

bv W t .

1

. o o

29.00

B

G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e ( a nd ) P EG-I00 S t e a r a t e ( 2 )

8 . 0 0

C Aluminum Z i rco n iu m Te t rac h lo roh ydr ex GLY, 30% So ln . ( 3 ) 33 .0 0

Aluminum C h lo r id e , 32 Baume So ln .

5 . 5 0

Aluminum Ch lo rhyd ra te , 50% S o l n .

4 )

1 6 . 5 0

D

Cyc lometh icone

( 5 )

7 . 0 0

E Fra g ra n c e , Dy e , P re s e rv a t i v e

q . s .

( 2 ) A r l a c e l

165

(3) Rezal 36G

( 4 ) C h l o r h y d r o l , 50% S o l u t i o n

( 5 ) R h o d o r s i l 700 45V2

P r e p a r a t i o n

:

s he ar u n t i l smooth, u n i f o r m and c o m pl e t e ly f r e e o f u n d i s pe r s ed

p a r t i c l e s . I n a no th er c o n ta i n e r , h ea t

B

t o 75C. Heat

C

t o 55C

i n a t h i r d c o n t a in e r . Add

B

t o A w i t h s l ow m i x i n g and c o o l t o

50C. Add

C

t o A&B. M ix a t s lo w s peed u n t i l t h e t e m p er a tu r e

reaches 2%.

Add

D and homogenize f o r 5 m i n u t e s .

A d d E .

M i x

u n t i l u n i f o r m and p ac ka ge .

Co n s i s t e n c y :

800

c p s .

Sugges ted Packag ing: Ro l l -On C on t a in e rs

Comments:

T h i s p r o t o t y p e f o r m u l a i s d es ig ne d t o s e rv e a s a g u id e f o r

the deve lopment

o f

new p ro d u c t s o r im prov em en t o f e x i s t i n g o n es .

SOURCE:

R .T . V a n d e r b i l t C o. , I n c , : F or mu la

No.

4 4 3

Add Veegum

HV

t o w a t e r a t 75C and m i x w i t h maximum a v a i l a b l e

V i s c o s i t y m easured a f t e r 30 da ys a t room t e m p e r a tu r e i s 600-

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 34/553

I Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations

Roll-On Antiperspirant

I n a r e d i e n t s :

A Ar lamo l

E

B r i j

721

B r i j 72

A1 1 a n t i on

B Wa t e r , d e i o n i z e d

C

Alum inum Z i r c o n i u m Te t ra c h l o r o h y d re x G l y ,

Wickenol 386

D

*Pe rf um e a nd P r e s e r v a t i v e

* q . s

t h e s e g r e d i e n t s .

4 . 0 0

0 .75

3 .25

34.55

0 .20

57.25

Procedure :

Heat

( A )

t o 60C and

5)

o 65C. Add (8 ) t o (A ) u s i n g p ro p -

e l l e r t y p e a g i t a t i o n . Add ( C) a t ab ou t 50C and

0)

a t about 45C.

Add water a t 35C t o compensate f o r l o s s due t o e v a p o r a t i o n .

Package,

Quick Dry Roll-On Lotion

I n a r e d i e n t s :

A

Cyc lometh i cone

B r i j

72

B r i j

721

B

Wate r, de4 o n i zed

C A lu min um c h l o rh y d ra t e , 50% aqueous s o l u t i o n

D

*Perfume

* q . s .

t h e se i n g r e d i e n t s .

m

10 . 00

2.00

0 . 7 0

52.30

35.00

Procedure :

C ool t o 35-40C w i t h s t i r r i n g and s l o w l y a dd t h e r em ain de r o f

g r e d i e n t s ,

Heat

A )

t o 70C and (B)

to

72C. Add (B)

to

(A) w i t h a g i t a t i o n .

Clear Roll-On A.P. Lotion

I

n u r e d i e n t

s

:

A E t h y l a l c o h o l

B

Ar lamo l

E

H y dr ox yp r op y l c e l l u lo se, K1 uc e l

GF

C

Aluminum chlorhydroxide-propylene g l y c o l complex 20

Procedure :

M ix

A )

t h o r o u g h l y u s i n g h i g h s he ar i f necessary. Add A r

E a nd s t i r u n t i l homogeneous. Add

C)

and s t i r u n t i l c l e a r .

SOURCE: I C 1

S u r f a c t a n t s : S ug ge st ed F o r m u l a t i o n s

m

69 .00

1 .oo

10

00

00

amo 1

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 35/553

Antiperspirants and Deodorants

3

Spray Pow der A nti-Perspirant

I n q r e d i e n t s :

( 1 )

Et h a n o l

( S D

40)

(2) Bentone Gel I P M

( 3 ) I s o p r op y l M y r i s t a t e

(4 ) Cyc lometh i cone

(5 ) A lum inum Ch lo rohydra te

(6 ) Ka o p o l i t e TLC

( 7 )

Fra g ra n c e

8 ) Prope l l a n t A46

by Weight

2 . 0

8 . 0

1 . 5

5 . 0

6 . 0

2 . 0

0 . 5

7 5 0

Procedure :

m i n u t e s .

A t

h i g h s pe ed , add (3 ) , ( 4 ) , ( 6 ) , and

( 7 ) .

M ix w i t h

8 )

and

f i l l .

each produc t used.

f l a m m a b l e i n g r e d i e n t s .

SOURCE:

K a o p o l i t e , I n c . : S ug ge st ed F o r m u l a t i o n

Add (1 ) t o ( 2 ) a nd m i x f o r 5 m i n u t e s . Add (5 ) a nd m i x f o r 5

Fo l l ow recommended h an d l i n g p r a c t i c e s

o f

t h e s up p l i e r o f

Good i n d u s t r i a l p r a c t i c e s s h o u l d b e u sed when h a n d l i n g

Deodorant Stick

S t e a r i c A c i d

E t h a n o l

Pr op yl ene G1 y c o l

I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e

Phosphol i d PTC

Sod i um H y d ro x i de 50%

bv Weight

8 . 0 0

74.13

10.00

5 . 0 0

0.50

2 . 3 7

Procedure :

and a g i t a t e t o 65-70C, t h e n s l o w l y n e u t r a l i z e t h e s t e a r i c a c i d

w i t h t h e sodium h y d r o x i d e

50%

and co n t i n ue m ix i ng u n t i l c l e a r .

C oo l s l i g h t l y t o 70C. Add f r a g r a n c e and c o l o r , a nd p ac ka ge .

P r o p e r t i es

:

S O U RC E

M o n a I n d u s t r i e s ,

I n c :

Sugges ted Formu la t i on

B l e n d i n g r e d i e n t s t o g e t h e r e x c e p t t h e sod iu m h y d r o x i d e . H ea t

Ph y s i c a l App ea ra nc e: T ra n s l u c e n t S o l i d

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 36/553

14 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Stick Formulation

1 . A-C

Copolymer 400

15

2 . I s o p ro p y l - My r i s t a t e 5 0

3 . Dow 344 F l u i d 15

4 . S t e a r y l A l c o h o l 20

Procedure :

Weigh a l l i n g r e d i e n t s and he a t w i t h a g i t a t i o n . The c l o u d

p o i n t o f t h i s b l e n d i s 72C. Above t h e c l o u d , t h e p o ly e t h y le n e

w i l l e v e n t ua l l y d i s s o l v e i n t h e b l en d.

I f

a h i g h e r s o l v a t i n g

t e m pe r a tu r e i s us ed , s o l v a t i o n i s much f a s t e r . C ar e must b e

t a ke n , however, n o t t o v o l a t i l i z e t h e Dow 344 F l u i d . When a l l

i n g r e d i e n t s a r e d i s s o l v e d , add 15% a lu minu m c h l o r h y d r a t e a nd

q u i c k c o o l , w i t h a g i t a t i o n , t o 45C. Pour i n t o c o n t a i n e r and

a l l o w t o co ol f u r t h e r .

Ref: 5189-12-2

Stick Formulation

A - C 400

2 - E t h y l H e x y l S t e a r a t e

M y r i s t y l M y r i s t a t e

D o w

Corning C344

C e t y l A1 coho1

Span 65

Stick Formulation

A - C 400

2 - E t h y l H e xy l S t e a r a t e

M yr i s t y l M y r i s t a t e

D o w

Corning C344

G l y c e r o l Mono S t e a ra t e

C e t y l A l c o h o l

Span

65

R762D

I s o p r o py l P a l m i t a t e

Dow Corning 344

S t e a r y l A lc oh o l ( A l f o l

Procedure :

Stick Formulation

18)

W B

20

43

18

16

2 . 5

0 . 5

W

20

40

18

16

3

2 . 5

0 . 5

W B

15

45

15

25

The i n g r e d i e n t s a r e mi xe d and h e a te d u n t i l t h e y f o r m a c l e a r

s o l u t i o n . C loud p o i n t o f t h i s s t i c k i s 76C.

I t

c a n b e po u red a t

65C.

A n t i p e rs p i r an t S t i c k :

aluminum c h l o r o h y d r a t e ( p a r t i c l e s i z e 1 2) and mi x i n h o t .

Perfume i s added j u s t p r i o r t o p o u r i ng .

D e o d o r a n t S t i c k :

1%

j u s t p r i o r t o p o u r i n g .

SOURCE:

A1

1

d S i g n a l I n c .

:

Suggested Formul a t ns

For a n t i p e r s p i r a n t s t i c k t o t h i s base f o r m u l a t i o n add 25%

F or d eo do ra nt s t i c k t o t h i s b ase f o r m u l a t i o n , add de od ora nt

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 37/553

Section IIBaby Products

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 38/553

16 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Baby Bath

A. M a r l i n a t 2 42/28

M a r l i n a t CM 1 0 5

Ampholyt JB 130

Mar lamid

M

1218

Water

B.

Camomile Special

Avocado Specia l

Perfume

P r e s e r v a t i v e

Magnesium sulphate x 7H20

%

2 0 . 0

1 2 . 0

2 . 0

t o 1 00 .0

0 . 5

1 . o

qs

qs

qs

22 o

P r e p a r a t i o n :

The components under

A .

a r e a dde d to g e th e r i n seq ue nce,

warmed and s t i r r e d u n t i l homogeneous. The components i n B .

a r e added t o A a t a p p r ox . 30C. The pH i s a d j u s t e d t o 5 . 5 - 6 . 6 .

Baby Bath

Ma r l a t 242 /28

Ampholyt JB 130

M a r l i n a t SL 3/40

D i o n i l

O C / K

L i me B1 ossom Sp ec i a1

Camomi l e Spec i a1

Perfume

C o l o u r

P r e s e r v a t i v e

Water

%

21 o

1 7 . 0

8 . 0

3 . 0

0 . 5

0 . 5

q s

qs

qs

t o 10 0. 0

P r e p a r a t i o n

u n t i l homogeneous. The pH i s a d j u s t e d t o 5 . 5 - 6 . 5 .

SOURCE: H u l s A m er ic a I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n s f o r C o sm e ti c s:

The components a r e m ixe d to g e th e r i n sequ ence a nd s t i r r e d

Su g g e s te d F o rm u la t i o n s

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 39/553

Baby Products

17

Baby Lotion Mousse

Phase A :

I n c r o q u a t Behenyl TMS

Pol awax

Crodaco l

S - 9 5

Crodamol PMP

Crodamol PTC

C a r n a t i o n M i n e r a l O i 1

P r o t o p e t 1 s P e t r o l at u m

D i me t hi c on e 35 c s ( 2 0 0 f l )

Phase 6 :

Wate r , de ion ized

G1 y c e r i ne

Germaben

I 1

( W / W )

1 .17

1

. o o

0 .3 3

O O

0 .6 7

1 - 0 0

2 . 0 0

0 . 5 0

83.33

8 . 0 0

1

. o o

Procedure :

S low ly add B t o A w i t h m i x i n g . C o o l . F i l l i n t o a e r os ol

c o n t a i n e r s and a dd p r o p e l l a n t (pH 5 . 7 ) .

Combine A and hea t t o 75C. Combine 5 and h ea t t o 75C.

F i l l r a t i o : C on c e n t r a te 95%, Pro p e l l a n t A3 1 5%.

Baby Oil

I n g r e d i e n t s :

1 .

C a r n at i o n, L i g h t Mi n e ra l

O i

1

NF

2 . R i t a l a n

3 . R i t a c e t y l

4 . Propy lpa raben

5 . Perfume

Q S I O O .

00

5 . 0 0

2 . 5 0

0 . 1 0

QS

M a n u fa c tu r i n g P ro ce d u re :

Weigh and add a l l t h e i n g r e d i e n t s i n t o a c o n t a i n e r and b e g i n

s t i r r i n g wh i l e warming, u n t i l a l l i n g r e d ie n t s wh ich a re s o l i d s a t

amb ien t tempera tu res have me l t ed ( app rox ima te l y 55C) . S t i r u n t i l

co m p le te l y homogeneous an d b e g in co o l i n g . S t i r co n t i n u o u s l y ,

a l l o w

t o

r em ai n un d i s t u r b e d f o r 2 4 h o u r s , and f i l t e r .

Baby Oil

I n a r e d i e n t s :

1 . C a r n at i on , L i g h t M i n e r a l

O i

1 NF

2 . R i t a l a n C

3. Perfume

4 . Propy lpa raben

Q S l O O . 00

1 . o o

OS

0 . 1 0

Manu fac tu r ing Procedure :

3 and 4 and m ix u n t i l a homogeneous d i s p e r s i o n o c c ur s . F i l t e r ,

i f

nece ssar y, and package f i l l i n t o s u i t a b l e c o n t a in e r s .

SOURCE: Wi tc o Cor p. : Petr o leum Sp e c i a l t i e s Group: SuggeOted

Weigh and add #1 i n t o a c o n t a i n e r a nd b e g i n s t i r r i n g . Add

# 2 ,

F o r m u l a t i o n s

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 40/553

  8 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Baby Shampoo

Th is baby shampoo fea tu r es Crovo l A-70 and C r o su l t a i n e C-50,

n a t u r a l d e r i v e d s u r f a c t a n t s w hi ch g i v e t h i s f or mu la i t s m i l dn es s.

U s in g a f r a g r a n c e w i t h a b a b y- f r e sh f f s m e l l adds t o i t s ap pe al .

I n q r e d i e n t s :

P a r t A :

SLES

( 3

mole) 2 0 . 0

Cr os u l ta in e C-50 (Cocamidopropy l Hy d r oxy su l ta i ne ) 1 2 . 0

Deion ized Water

51 .3

P a r t B :

Cr ov ol A-70 (PEG-60 Almond G ly c er id es ) 15. 0

C r o t h i x * (PEG-150 P e n t a e r y t h r i y l T e t r a s t e a r a t e ) 0 . 5

P a r t C:

P r o p yl e n e G l y c o l ( an d) D i a z o l i d i n y l U rea ( a nd ) M et h yl

Paraben (and ) Pr op yl Paraben** 1

. o

F lo r a s y nt h A65697 (Powder Type) 0 . 2

Procedure :

Combine t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t

A

w i t h m i x i n g . Combine t h e

i n g r e d i e n t s o f Pa r t B w i t h m i x i n g and h e at t o 65C. Add Pa r t B

t o P ar t A w i t h m i x i n g. Add t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t C i n d i v i d -

u a l l y w i t h m i x i n g . A d j u s t pH

i f

needed wi th

a

10% HC1 aqueous

s ol u t i o n. Coo l w i t h m i x i ng t o d e s i r e d

f

1 tempera tu re .

pH: 7.0 -0.5

Viscosi ty : 5 ,OOOcps+- lO% (@25C)

**Germaben

I 1

N . A . T . C .

Approved

*The use o f C r o t h i x i n c o sm e ti c and o t h e r f o r m u l a t i o n s i s

covered under U . S . P a t e n t 5 , 1 9 2 , 4 6 2 .

SOURCE: Croda I n c . : F o r m u l a t l o n SH-86

Baby Shampoo

Mackadet BSC (Baby Shampoo Concentrate)

M a cks ta t

DM

(DMDM Hyd a n to i n )

C i t r i c A c i d t o

p H

=

6 .5 -7 .0

Sod ium Ch lo r ide qs t o v i s c o s i t y = 2000 cps

Water, Dye, Fragrance qs t o

Wei a h t ,%

20 .0

q . s .

100.0

Procedure :

1.

Add Ma cks ta t BSC

to

wa te r and h e a t t o 4 0 degrees C .

2 . Add Mackstat DM.

3 . A d ju s t pH w i t h c i t r i c a c i d and v i s c o s i t y w i t h sodium c h l o r i d e .

4 .

Add dye , f r ag ra nc e and co o l t o room tem pera tu re .

SOURCE: Mc In t y r e Group L t d . : Suggested Fo rm u la t ion

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 41/553

Baby Products

19

Baby Shampoo

A .

M a r l i n a t CM 105

Ma rl a t 243/28

Amphol y t JA 140

Glucamate

DOE

120

Water

0 Lime-b lossom Specia l

Camomi l e Sp eci a1

Perfume

P r e s e r v a t i v e

Wt%

5 5 . 0

14.0

7 . 0

qs

t o 100 .0

P r e p a r a t i o n

T h e c o n s t i t u e n t s

of

A . a re b ro u g h t t o g e th e r i n sequence a nd

s t i r r e d w h i l e warm u n t i l homogeneous. The i n g r e d i e n t s

o f

B.

a r e

added t o A . a t a pp ro x.

3 0 C .

The pH i s a d j us te d t o

5 . 5 - 6 . 6 .

Baby Shampoo

Ma r l a t 242 /28

Amphol

yt

JA 140

Ampholyt J B 130

S o f t i g e n 767

Lamepon

S

Camomi 1e Sp ec i a1

L i me-bl ossom Sp ec i a1

P r e s e r v a t i v e

A n t i 1 141 l i q u i d

Water

Wt%

2 9 . 0

7 . 5

10 . 0

3 . 0

5 . 0

1 . o

1 . o

qs

q s

t o 100.0

P r e p a r a t i o n

The components a r e m i xe d to g e th e r i n sequence and s t i r r e d

u n t i l homogeneous. The

p H

i s a d j u s t e d t o

5.5 6.5.

SOURCE: H u l s A me ri ca I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n s

f o r

Cosmet ics : Formulas

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 42/553

2 Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations

Baby Shampoo

I n q r e d i e n t s :

A Tween 20

Cocoamphodiacetate

S od i um l a u r y l s u l f a t e

Sodium l a u r e t h s u l f a t e

P E G - 1 50 d i s t e a r a t e

P r o p y l e n e g l y c o l

Water

B * C i t r i c a c i d

* q . s t h e se n g r e d i e n t s

%w/w

6 . 0 0

6 . 0 0

3.00

3 . 0 0

4 . 0 0

3 . 0 0

75 . 00

Procedure :

A d j u s t pH t o

5 0

t o

5 . 5

w i t h ( B ) .

M i x ( A ) w i t h g e n t l e s t i r r i n g and h e a t u n t i l homogeneous.

Baby Shampoo

I n a r e d i e n t s :

A G-4280

Sodi urn t r i d ec et h s u l f a t e

Laurarnphodi ac e t a t e

Cocamidopropy l hyd roxy su l t a i ne

Sodi urn 1 aur eth -13 ca rb ox yl a t e

Water

* P r e s e r v a t i v e

B PEG-150 d i s t e a r a t e

C

* C i t r i c a c i d

* q . s . t h es e i n g r e d i e n t s .

%w/w

2 0 . 0 0

12 .00

5 . 0 0

2 50

2 . 0 0

5 3 . 5 0

5.00

Procedure :

Heat t o a roun d 60C and add ( B ) and c o n t i n u i n g s t i r r i n g . When

c l e a r , c o o l and a d j u s t pH t o 6 . 8 w i t h ( C ) .

SOURCE:

IC1

Su r fa c ta n t s : Sug ge sted F o rm u la t i o n s

M i x ( A ) w i t h g e n t l e s t i r r i n g and h e a t u n t i l homogeneous.

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 43/553

Baby Products 21

Baby Shampoos

B 42/6:

Z e te so l

MS

Amphotensid

GB

2009

P u r t o n SFD

Wate r , pe rfume , sodium c h l o r id e ,

p r e s e r v a t i v e

0 42/7:

Z e te so l

MS

Zetesol 2056

Pu r to n CFD

Perfume

So d iu m ch lo r i d e

W a t e r , p r e s e r v a t i v e

Baby Foam Baths

B

70/139:

Z e te so l MS

P u r t o n SFD

Water, per fume, sod ium c h l o r i d e ,

p r e s e r v a t i v e

25.0%

9 .0 %

2.0%

q s

t o make 100.0%

27.0%

7.0%

2 .0 %

0 . 3 %

2.0%

9 , s . t o make

100.0%

43.0%

1 .O

9 s . to make 100.0%

B 70/129:

Ex t r ak t 52 24.0%

P u r t o n SFD 1.0%

H e r b a l i q u i d K a m i l l e S p e z ia l 5 . 0%

Wa te r , p e r fu m e , p re se rva t i ve q . s . t o make 100.0%

Ad ju s tm e nt t o a p p ro x . p H 7 by l a c t i c a c i d o r c i t r i c a c i d

0 70/101 :

Amphotensid 9

M

40

0

Se ta c i n 103 Spez ia l 20 0 0

P u r t o n CFD 2.0%

M u l s i f a n RT 203/80

3.0

Oxypon 2145 1.0%

Water , per fume , p r es e r va t i ve q : s . t o make 100 .0%

SOURCE: Zschimmmer & Schwarz

GmbH

& C o . : Sugges ted Fo rmu la t ions

Ad jus tment t o pH 6 . 5- 7. 0 by l a c t i c o r c i t r i c a c i d

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 44/553

22 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Tear Free Baby Bath

Wei a h t ,%

Mackam 2C (Cocoam vh odi aceta te) 3 5 . 0

Mackol 70NS (Sodium La ur et h S u l f a t e ) 5 .5

Mackam 35HP (C oca mid opr opy l B e t a i n e ) 6 .0

Mackanate DC-30 (D is odi um Dimeth ic one C opo lyo l

S ul f o s u c c i n a t e ) 4 . 0

Mackam CET ( C e t y l B e t a i n e ) 1 . 5

Paragon (DMDM Hyd anto in (and) Methy l Paraben) 0 . 7

C i t r i c A c i d

9 s.

o pH 5.0-5.5

Water q . s . t o 1 00 .0

Procedure :

1 .

Ble nd components and he at t o 50C.

2 . When p ro du ct i s c l e a r a d j u s t pH t o 5 .0 -5 .5 w i t h c i t r i c a c i d

pH: 5.3

V is c os i t y (cps , 25C) : 500 cps

Formula BN-l27C

Baby Wipes

Pr opy len e G1 yc ol

Mackam 2C (Co co am ph od ia ce ta te )

Paragon (DMDM Hydanto in (and) Methy l Paraben)

C i t r i c A c i d

q . s .

t o

F h g r a n c e

Water

q . s .

t o

Procedure :

1 . B l e n d components u n t i l c l e a r .

2. A d j us t pH w i t h c i t r i c a c id .

m i l d t o s k i n and e ye s.

T h i s s o l u t i o n i s combined w i t h baby w ip e t i s s u e s . t i s v e r y

M ild Ch ildren s Bub ble B ath

Mackana te EL (D isod ium La u re t h Su l fos ucc ina te )

Mackanate

CP

(D i s o d i um Cocami do

M I P A

S u l f o s u c c i n a t e )

Sodium Laure th S u l f a t e (30%)

Natrosol 250HHR

M a cks ta t

DM

(DMDM H yda n to in )

Water, Fragrance, Dye qs t o

Procedure :

1 . D i sp e rse Na t ro so l 250HHR i n co l d wa te r .

2. B l en d u n t i l c o m p le t e ly d i s p e s r se d .

3 . Heat t o

40

degrees

C .

and add re ma in in g components.

4 . B len d u n t i l c l e a r .

5. Cool and

f i l l .

SOURCE: Mc In t y re Group L td . : Pe rsona l Care Fo rmu la r y

Wei a h t ,%

4 .0

2 .0

q . s .

pH=6.0

q . s .

100.0

Wei ah t, %

10 .0

10.0

9 . 0

1 . o

q s

100.0

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 45/553

Section III

Bath

and

Shower Products

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 46/553

24 Cosmetic

and

Toiletry Formulations

Aerosol Bath

Oil

I n s r e d i e n t s :

A O l e y l a l c o h o l

At las G-1795

A l c o h o l , SDA No. 40

Perfume

15 .00

1

. o o

52 .00

2.00

B

Prop e l 1 a n t 12 /114 (57 /43) 30 .00

Procedure :

Cool t o

7 0 C

and add ( C ) . S t i r u n t i l u n i f o r m and pou r w h i l e

s t i l l f l u i d .

Heat ( A ) and ( B ) t o 9OC. Add ( B) t o ( A ) w i t h g e n t l e s t i r r i n g .

Dispersible Bath Oil

I n a r e d i e n t s :

M i

n e ra l o i 1 , 81 a n do l

A c t i v e #4

B r i j

93

Foam s t a b i l i z e r , N i n o l

A A - 6 2

E x t r a

Perfume

6 0 0 0

20.00

13 .00

2 .00

5 . 0 0

Procedure :

F i 1 e r n e c es s a ry .

M ix a l l i n g r e d i e n t s . Use s l i g h t h ea t

i f

n ec es sa ry and s t i r .

Bath Gel

I n n r e d i e n t s :

NaCl

G-9600

*Co l o r

F rag rance

P r e s e r v a t i v e

Water

* q . s .

t h es e i n g r e d i e n t s .

M i x w e l l a t room t e m p e r a tu r e .

Procedure :

SOURCE:

IC1

S u r f a c t a n t s : S ug ge st ed F o r m u l a t i o n s

35.00

0.80

0.20

0 .1 0

63.90

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 47/553

Bath

and

Shower Products 25

Bath Gelee with Natural Lipid Protein

Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e

(60%)

Mackamide

CS

(Cocamide

DEA)

Wei a h t .

20.0

20.0

Mackanate

CP

(Disodium Cocamido

M I P A

S u l f o s u c c i n a t e ) 2 0 . 0

Mackpro NLP (Quatern ium-79 Hy dro lyze d An imal P r o t e i n )

( N at u r a l L i p i d P r o t e i n )

4 . 0

Macks ta t

DM

(DMDM H y d a n t o in )

qs

Water, Dye, Fragrance

qs

t o

100.0

Procedure :

1. Add Mackamide

CS

t o s odium l a u r e t h s u l f a t e and b l e n d .

2 . Add rem ai n in g components and heat t o

45

degrees C .

3 .

B l e nd u n t i l h omogenous and a d j u s t pH t o 6 . 5 -7 . 0 w i t h

c i t r i c a c i d .

4 .

ool

and

f i l l .

Bath Gelee

Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e (60%)

Mackamide

C

(Cocamide DEA)

Mackanate EL

( D i

sod i um Lau re th Su l f o su cc i na te )

L a c t i c A c i d t o pH

= 6 . 0 - 6 . 5

M a c k s t a t DM (DMDM Hy d a n t o i n )

Dye,

Fragrance,

qs

t o

Procedure :

1 .

Add components i n o r de r and hea t t o

45

degrees

C .

2 .

61 end u n t homogeneous.

3 .

A d j u s t

p H

w i t h l a c t i c a c i d .

4 .

Add f ra g ra nce and coo l t o room temp era tu r e .

Emollient Bath Gelee

Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e

(60%)

Mackamide LLM (Lauramide

DEA)

Weiqht

,

34.6

20.0

4 5 . 0

qs

100.0

Wei a h t

.

20 .0

20.0

Mackanate EL

( D i

sod i um Lau re t h Su l f o su cc i na te )

2 0 . 0

Mackanate

WGD

(D is odi um Wheatgermamido PEG-2

S ul f o s u c c i n a t e )

1 0 . 0

M a c k s t a t

DM

(DMDM H y d a n t o i n ) s

Water,

Dye,

Fra g ra n c e

qs

t o

100.0

Procedure :

1 .

Add Mackamide LLM t o sodium l a u r e t h su l f a t e .

2 . Add t h e rem ain ing components and heat t o

45

degrees C .

3 .

81 end u n t i 1 homogeneous.

4 . A d j u s t pH t o

6 . 5 - 7 . 0

w i t h c i t r i c a c i d .

5 . Cool and f i l l .

SOURCE:

Mc In ty r e Group L t d . : Pe rsona l Care Form u la ry

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 48/553

26 Cosmetic and Toile Formulations

Bath Milk

A . I m w i t o r

960

f l a k e s

M i g l y o l

812

M i g l y o l

840

M a r l o p h o r

T 1 0

Na Sa l t

6

G l y c e r o l

Water

C .

Ex tr ap on Hamamelis Spec.

Perfume

P r e s e r v a t i v e

5 . 0

1 5 . 0

1 0 . 0

8 . 0

3 . 0

t o 1 0 0 0

1

. o

qs

qs

P r e p a r a t i o n :

h e a te d t o t h e same t e m pe r a tu r e and e m u l s i f i e d i n

A .

C . i s

added a t 30C.

The i n g r e d i e n t s o f A . ar e mixed and hea ted t o 75-8OC.

6

i s

Washing Lotion

M a r l a t

242/28

M a r l i n a t

CM

105

D i o n i l

OC/K

Mar lamid

PG 20

Perfume

Co l o u r

P r e s e r v a t i v e

NaCl

Water

6 . 0

3.0

3.0

q s

q s

qs

qs

t o

100.0

22

o

P r e p a r a t i o n

:

u n t i l homogeneous. The pH i s a d j u s t e d t o 5 . 5 - 6 . 5 .

SOURCE: H u l s

Am e r i c a I n c .

:

F o r m u l a t i o n s f o r C o sm e ti cs :

The co mp one nts a re m i xe d t o g e t h e r i n seq ue nce an d s t i r r e d

Su g g e s t e d Fo rm u l a t i o n s

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 49/553

Bath and Shower Products 27

Bath Oil, De Luxe with Plant Oils

A .

M i g l y o l

812

M i g l y o l

840

S o f t i g e n

767

S o f t i s a n

645

Soya be an o i l

Hos taphat

K L 340 N

Co l o u r

A n t i o x i d a n t s

Perfume

V i s c o s i t y : v e r y l o w - v i scous

15.6

15.0

10 0

10.0

37.0

13.0

q s

q s

qs

P r e p a r a t i o n :

temp era tu r e u n t i l homogeneous.

A l l t h e c om ponents a r e m i xe d t o g e t h e r and s t i r r e d a t room

Foam Bath with Almond Oil

A .

Mar lowet

OA 4/1

I s o p ro p y l m y r i s t a t e

Almond

o i l

G l y c e r o l

DAB

9

M ar la m id DF

1218

Water

C . Perfume

P r e s e r v a t i v e

B .

M a r l i n a t

242/70

3 0 . 6

2 2 0

8 0

25.0

1 0 , o

3.0

t o

100.0

qs

as

P r e p a r a t i o n

:

Add pe r fume and p r es e r va t i ve a t 30C.

Heat

A .

and

B .

t o 70-75C. Add B . s l o w ly t o A . w i t h s t i r r i n g .

Foam Bath Oil

A .

Mar lowet R

11/K

P i

ne-need1 e o i

1

B. M a r l i n a t

242/70

L i p o x o l

600 MED

Water

C.

P r e s e r v a t i v e

s/,

30.0

30.0

1 1 o

13.0

t o

100.0

qs

P r e p a r a t i o n

:

Add pe r fume and p r es e r va t i ve a t 30C.

SOURCE:

H u l s A me ric a I n c . : F o r m u l a ti o n s f o r C os me ti cs :

Heat

A .

and

B .

t o

7 0 - 7 5 C .

Add B. s l o w l y t o

A .

w i t h s t i r r i n g .

Sugge ted Formu la t i ons

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 50/553

28 Cosmetic and

Toileoy Formulations

Bubble Bath Bath

Oil

I n a r e d i e n t s :

A

Fragrance 2991

H

I F F I n c .

Tween 20

Foaming age nt , Lan tha nol LAL

4.40

22 .20

10.00

B

Water , de i on i zed 62.20

C Foam s t a b i l i z e r , N i n o l AA-62 E x t r a

P r e s e r v a t i v e

1 - 0 0

0 .20

Procedure :

Add

( B )

t o ( A ) w i t h good a g i t a t i o n . Add (C) w i t h s t i r r i n g

w i t h

s l i g h t h ea t t o f a c i l i t a t e s o l u t i o n when n ecessa ry . A d ju s t

t h e f i n a l p r o d u c t t o a pH o f l e s s t ha n 7 .0 w i t h an a c i d such as

c i t r i c . F i l t e r

i f

necessary .

Bubble Bath

I n s r e d i e n t s :

NaCl

S u l f o s u c c i n a t e

Frag rance

P r e s e r v a t i v e

*Co l o r

Water

G-9600

20 .00

0 90

7.00

0 . 2 0

0.10

71.80

*q.

s .

t h e s e g r e d i e n t s .

M i x w e l l a t room t e m p e r a tu r e .

Procedure :

Bubble

Bath

I n s r e d i e n t s :

A

T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e l a u r y l s u l f a t e , M a pr p fo x TLS-500 20

IO0

Coc on ut f a t t y a c i d d i e t h a n o l a m i d e , Sup er Amide L-9 7.50

B

Perfume 5.00

C

W a t e r , d e i o n i z e d

P r o p y l e n e g l y c o l

57 .50

5.00

Procedure :

u n t i l d i s s o l v e d . Add (C) a nd s t i r .

SOURCE:

IC1

S u r f a c t a n t s : S ug ge st ed F o r m u l a t i o n s

Warm

( A )

and m ix u n t i l c l e a r . C ool and add p er fu me , s t i r r i n g

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 51/553

Bath

and Shower Products 29

Clear Gel

T h i s c l e a r g e l i s a c l a s s i c f o r m ul a t h a t i s based on Vo lp o

a n d C r o d a f o s s u r f a c t a n t s . I t e x h i b i t s t h e r i n g i n g g e l phenom-

enon, c h a r a c t e r i s t i c o f meny c l e a r m i cr o em u l si o ns . T h i s e f f e c t

i s ac hi ev ed b y a system o f w a te r , o i l and s u r f a c t a n t f o r m u la t e d

i n a r a t i o t h a t fo rms a r i g i d m i c e l l e s t r u c t u r e . The Vo lpos and

C ro da fo se s a r e use d a s c o - e m u l s i f i e r s . ( F o r l a b o r a t o r y p r e p a r a-

t i o n , a minimum b a t c h s i z e o f 400 grams i s recommended becau se

t h e y co o l s l ow e r , a l l o w i n g more t i m e b e f o r e t h e s e t p o i n t

t e m pe r at u re i s r e a ch e d ).

I n g r e d i e n t s :

P a r t

A :

Dei o n i z ed wa t e r 5 4 . 0

P r o py l en e G l y c o l 1 2 . 0

P a r t B :

Crod afos N3 N e ut ra l (DEA Ol et h- 3 Phosphate)

2 . 0

Cr oda fos N10 N e ut ra l (DEA Ole th- 10 Phosphate) 4 . 0

Vo lpo 5 ( O l e t h - 5 ) 4 . 0

Vo l p o 3 (O l e t h -3 ) 7 . 0

M i n e r a l O i l (7Ossu) 17 .0

Procedure :

Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t B w i t h m i x i n g a nd h e a t t o 9 0-95C.

Add Par t A t o P a r t B w i t h m i x i ng and c o o l t o d e s i r e d

f i l l

temp-

e r a t u r e ( a bo ve s e t p o i n t ) . S e t p o i n t a p p r o x i m a t e l y 85C.

Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t

A

w i t h m i x i n g an d h e a t t o 9 0-95C.

N.A.T.C. Approved

Formula CG-8R

T h i s f o r m u l a u se s an o p t i m i z e d c o m b in a t i on o f C r o s u l t a i n e

High Foaming Shower Gel

C-50, In c r o d e t TD-7C and SLES (3 mole) t o prod uce a c l e a r ,

h i g h f oa m in g , l o w c o l o r , and l o w o d o r b a t h an d shower g e l .

C r o t h i x i s u sed t o p r o v i d e t h e b ody and v i s c o s i t y seen i n t h e

f o rm u la , and C r o vo l A-70 i s us ed t o s o l u b i l i z e t h e f r a gr a n c e a nd

m a in t a i n t h e c l a r i t y o f t h e p r o du c t .

I n q r e d i e n t s :

P a r t

A :

SLES ( 3 mo le )

2 0 . 0

I n c r o d e t TD-7C ( T r i d e c e t h - 7 C a r b o x y l i c A c i d ) 7 . 0

Cr o s u l t a i n e C-50 (Co ca m i do p rop y l Hy d ro x y s u l t a i n e )

2 0 . 0

D i s o d i um EDTA 0 .1

D e i o n i z e d w a t er 4 8 . 3

Germaben

I 1

1 . o

P a r t B :

C r o t h i x (PEG-150 P e n t a e r y t h i t y l T e t r a s t e a r a t e ) 1 . o

C ro vo l A-70 (PEG-60 Almond G ly c e r id e s )

2 . 0

BHT 0 . 1

P a r t

C :

Perfume (BBA 860753)

0 . 5

Procedure :

o f P a r t B w i t h m i x i n g and h e a t t o 65-7OC. C o n t i n u e m i x i n g an d

c o o l t o 50C. Add Pa r t C t o P a r t B w i t h m i x i n g . When c l e a r , add

P a r t B t o P a r t A w i t h m ix i n g . A d j u s t pH w i t h 10% NaOH s o l u t i o n .

S O U R C E :

C r o d a I n c . : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n s

Combine n g re d i e n t s o f P a r t A w i t h

m i

x i ng . Combi ne i n g r e d ie n ts

Formula BP-41

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 52/553

3 Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations

Foam Baths Clear

0 70/136:

Z e te so l N L

Pu r to n SFD

Water, per fume, sodium c h lo r id e ,

B 70/123:

Zetesol 2056

Pu r to n CFD

Wate r, pe r fume, sod ium c h l o r id e ,

p r e s e r v a t i v e

p r e s e r v a t i v e

46.0%

2.0%

q . s

t o make 100.0%

27.0%

2.0%

q . s . t o make 100.0%

B 70/117:

Ze te so l 856T 35 0%

Se t a c i n 103 Sp e z ia l 5 .0 %

Oxypon 2145 2.0%

Water , pe r fume, sod ium ch lo r i de ,

p r e s e r v a t i v e

q . s .

t o make 100.0%

0 70/148:

Zetesol 2056

Oxypon 288

Perfume

W a t e r , p r e s e r v a t i v e

40.0%

2.0%

1 . 5 %

q . s . t o make 100.0%

B 70/161:

Zeteso l 856 T 35.0%

Oxypon 328 4.5%

J o jo ba o i l 0.5%

Pu r to n CFD 2.0%

Perfume 1

.O

W ater , so dium c h l o r i d e , p r e s e r v a t i v e q . s . t o make 100.0%

Foam Baths Pearlescent

B 71/16:

Zetesol 2056

P e r l g l anzmi t t e l GM 41 75

Perfume

So d iu m ch lo r i d e

W a t e r , p r e s e r v a t i v e

871

4 :

Zetesol 856T

Se ta c i n 1 0 3 Sp e z ia l

P e r g l a n z m i t t e l GM 4055

Oxypon 2145

Water , pe rfum e, p re se rv a t i v e

27.0%

3.0%

0.8%

2.5%

q . s . t o make 100.0%

37.0%

6.0%

7.5%

3.0%

q . s . t o make 100.0%

SOURCE: Zschimmer & Schwarz GmbH & C o . : Suggested Formula t ions

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 53/553

Bath

and Shower Products

31

Herbal Foam Bath

A . M a r lo n PS 65

Mar l a t 242/28

D i o n i l

O C / K

Ampholyt J B 130

M a r l i n a t

CM

105

Water

B.

Perfume

Ex t ra p o n 3 -Sp e c i a l

P r e s e r v a t i v e

Co l ou r

NaCl

5 . 0

3 5 . 0

3 . 0

1 0 . 0

9 . 0

t o 1 00 .0

q s

2 . 0

q s

q s

q s

P r e p a r a t i o n

:

s t i r r e d wh i l e warmed u n t i l homogeneous. The components under

6

a r e added t o t h o s e o f A . a t a b ou t 30C. The pH i s a d j u s t e d t o

The components under A . a r e m i xe d t o g e t h e r i n s eq ue nce a nd

5 . 5 - 6 . 6 .

Foam Bath, Transparent

Ma r l a t 242 /28

M a r l i n a t

SL

3/40

Mar lam id

DF

1218

Magnes ium su lphate

Perfume

C o l o u r

P r e s e r v a t i v e

NaCl

Water

x 7H20

1 0 . 0

2 . 0

0 . 5

q s

qs

q s

q s

t o 1 00 .0

3 5 . 5

P r e p a r a t i o n

u n t i l homogeneous. The pH

i s

a d j u s te d t o 5 .5 -6 .5 .

SOURCE:

H u l s A me ric a I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n s f o r Cosmet i cs :

The com ponents a r e m i xe d t o g e t h e r i n s eq ue nce a nd s t i r r e d

Suggested Formu l a t i ons

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 54/553

3 Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations

Mild Shower Gel

Ma r l a t 242 /28

M a r l i n a t DFN

30

Ampholyt JB 130

Lamepon

S

Camomi l e Spe ci a1

Perfume

C o l o u r

P r e s e r v a t i v e

A n t i 1 141 l i q u i d

Water

P r e p a r a t i o n

The components

u n t i l homogeneous

2 2 . 0

6 . 0

1 6 . 0

5 . 0

2 . 0

q s

q s

q s

q s

t o 10 0.0

a r e m ix ed to g e t h e r i n sequence and s t i r r e d

.

The pH i s a d j u s t e d t o 5 . 5 - 6 .5 .

Shower Bath Gel with Pearl Lustre

Mar l na t 242 /28

M a r l i n a t CM

1 0 5

M a r l i n a t

S L

3/40

D i o n i l

O C / K

M ar l am id PG20

Pantheno l

Perfume

C o l o u r

P r e s e r v a t i v e

NaCl

Water

Procedure :

u n t i l homogeneous.

The components

4 3 . 0

1 0 0

5 . 0

3 . 0

3 . 0

0 . 2

q s

q s

q s

q s

t o 10 0.0

a r e m i xe d t o g e t h er i n s equence and s t i r r e d

The pH i s a d j u s t e d t o 5 .5 -6 .5 .

Clear, Mild to the Skin Shower Bath

Ampholyt JB 130

Mar l n a t 242/28

M a r l i n a t

S L

3/40

D i o n i l

O C / K

Perfume

C o l o u r

P r e s e r v a t i v e

NaCl

Water

P r e p a r a t i o n :

u n t i l homogeneous.

The components

1 8 . 0

1 4 . 0

11 - 0

1 . 5

q s

q s

qs

q s

t o 10 0.0

a r e m i xe d t o g e t h e r i n sequence and s t i r r e d

The pH i s a d j u s t e d t o 5 .6 - 6. 5 .

SOURCE: H u l s A m er ic a I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n s

f o r

Cosmet ics :

Sugges ted Formu la t i ons

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 55/553

Bath and Shower Products 33

Refreshing Shower Gel

M a r l i n a t

CM

105

M a r l i n a t

D F K

30

Ampholyt JB 130

D i o n i l

O C / K

Rosemary Specia l

S t i n g i n g N e t t l e S p ec ia l

Hamamel i s Sp eci a1

Marlowet R40/K

Menthol

Perfume

Co l o u r

P r e s e r v a t i v e

A n t i 1 141 l i q u i d

Water

3 2 0

1 7 . 0

1 1 . 5

2 . 0

0 5

0 . 5

0 . 5

1 . o

0 5

qs

qs

qs

qs

t o

1 0 0 . 0

P r e p a r a t i o n

u n t i l homogeneous. The

p H

i s a d j u s t e d t o

5 . 5 - 6 . 5 .

The components a re mixed to g et he r

i n

sequence and s t i r r e d

Shower Gel

M a r l n a t

2 4 2 / 2 8

M a r l i n a t

S L

3/40

Ampholy t

J A

140

D i o n i l

O C / K

P e r fume

Co l o u r

P r e s e r v a t i v e

NaCl

Water

P r e p a r a t i o n :

u n t i l homogeneous. The pH i s a d j u s t e d t o

5 . 5 - 6 . 5 .

SOURCE: H u l s

A me ric a I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n s f o r C o sm et ic s:

The components a r e mixed to ge th e r

i n

sequence an d s t i r r e d

Su g g e s t e d Fo rm u l a t i o n s

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 56/553

34 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Shower Bath for Everyday Use

Mar l a t 242/28

M a r l i n a t

CM

105

Ampholyt J B 130

D i o n i l

O C K

Mar lamid PG 20

Panthenol

V i tamin F

Perfume

Co lou r

P r e s e r v a t i v e

NaCl

Water

3 5 . 0

1 6 .0

8 . 0

2 . 0

1

. o

0 1

0 . 1

qs

qs

qs

qs

t o 1 0 0 . 0

Pre p a r a t i o n

:

u n t i l homogeneous. The pH i s a d j u s te d t o 5 .5 -6 .5 .

The componen ts a r e mixed to ge th e r i n sequence and s t i r r e d

Mild Foam Bath

Mar l a t 242/28

M a r l i n a t CM

105

D i o n i l

O C / K

I v y S pe ci al

Rosemary Special

Perfume

Co lou r

P r e s e r v a t i v e

NaCl

Water

18.0

30.0

3 0

0 . 3

0 . 1

qs

qs

q s

qs

t o 1 0 0 0

Pre p a ra t n

:

u n t i l homogeneous. The pH i s a d j u s t e d t o 5 . 5 -6 . 5 .

SOURCE:

H u l s A me ri ca I n c . : F o r m u l a ti o n s

f o r

Cosmet ics :

The components a r e m ixed to ge th e r i n sequence and s t i r r e d

Sugges ted Fo rmu la t ions

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 57/553

0 75/26:

Zetesol 2056

Se ta c i n 1 03 Sp e z ia l

Purton CFD

Perfume

So d iu m ch lo r i d e

W a t e r , p r e s e r v a t i v e

Bath and

Shower

Products

35

Shower Baths, Clear

25.0%

9.0

1.0

1 O

2.5%

q s t o make 100.0%

0 75/5:

Ze teso l 856 T 21 -5 %

Amphotensid G 0 2009 8.0%

P ur to n SFD 2.0%

Oxypon 2145 1 .0 %

Perfume 1 .O

Water , p re s e rv a t i v e , sod iu m c h l o r i d e q . s . t o make 100.0%

Shower Baths, Pearlescent

0 75/6:

E x t r a k t 5 2

P e r l g 7 a n z m i t t e l GM 4055

Purton SFD

Water , pe r fu m e, p r e s e r va t i ve

42.0%

5.0%

2.0%

q s

t o make 100.0%

0 75/27:

Ze te so l 2056 27.0%

P e r l g l a n z m i t t e l

GM

4175 4.0%

P u r to n CFD 2.0%

Oxypon 2145 1 .O

Perfume 1 .O

Sodium c h l o r i d e , w a t e r , p r e s e r v a t i v e q s t o make 100.0%

0

75/56:

Zeteso l 856 T

P e r l g l a n z m i t t e l GM 4055

O xe ta l VD 20

Oxypon 2145

Perfume

W a t e r , p r e s e r v a t i v e

22.0%

5.0%

2.0%

1 .O

1 O

q . s . t o make 100.0%

SOURCE: Zschimrner

8

Schwarz GmbH & G o . : Suggested Formula t ions

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 58/553

36 Cosmetic

and Toiletry Formulations

Shower Gel Cleanser

A g e n t l e fo a mi ng g e l c l e a n s e r d e si gn e d t o t h o r o u g h l y deep

c le an se and r e f r e s h t h e s k i n w i th o u t d i s t u r b i n g t h e s k i n ' s

n a t u r a l m o i s t u r e b al an c e.

In a r ed ie n t /T ra de Name: by We igh t

P a r t

A :

Dei o n i zed Water

Po lyquatern ium-10

C i t r i c A c i d

Te t ra so d i um

EDTA

Methy lparaben

Sodi um

P C A / A j

ew N-50

P a r t :

Sodi um L a ur e t h S u l f a t e

TEA-Cocoyl G lu ta m at e/ Am is of t CT-12

Cocami dop rop y l Be ta ine

PEG-1 50 D i s t e a r a t e

Laurami de DEA

P a r t

C :

Fragrance/# IY-67

M e t h y l c h l o ro i s o t h i a z o l one and M e t hy l o t h i a z o l o ne

P a r t D :

So d i u m Ch l o r i d e

Procedure :

50.150

0

*

200

0.100

0.100

0 . 1 5 0

0.500

30 .000

10.000

5.000

0.700

2.000

0.250

0 .050

0.800

D i s p e rs e Pol ym er J R-125 i n d e i o n i z e d wa t e r . Hea t t o 70C.

Add r e m a i n i n g p a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s . M ix u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add p a r t B

i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r . M ix a t 70C u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y h omogeneous.

Coo l t o 40C. Add p a r t

C .

M i x w e l l . Add p a r t D as needed t o

c re as e v i s c o s i t y C o n t i nue

m i

x i ng and co ol g t o 35C.

App ea ra nc e: C l e a r l i q u i d / p H : 5 . 2 0 -5 . 7 0 / V i s c o s i t y : 4 ,0 00 -6 ,0 00 c ps

Bath Crystals

A g e n t l e m i l k y b a th c r y s t a l f o r m u la t i o n t h a t

w i l l

r e l a x y ou r

senses w i t h t h e aroma o f t h e h o t b a t h s o f J ap an . t w i l l l e a v e

y o u r s k i n c l e a n and smooth w h i l e t a k i n g y o u r m i nd t o f a r and

e x o t i c p l ac e s .

I n g r e d i e n t s :

Sod ium Ch lo r i de

Cocoy l G lu tamate /Amiso f t

CA

Fragrance/Takasago

Cabosi l M-5

by Weight

8 6 . 0 0

7

I O 0

1 . 5 0

0 . 5 0

B l e nd i n g r e d i e n t s 1 ,2 ,3 . P re mix i n g r e d i e n t s

4

and 5. Add

p re m i x t o p re - b l e n d a nd mi x u n t i l homogeneous and u n i f o rm .

SOURCE:

A j i n o m o t o USA, Inc.: Su g g e s t e d Fo rm u l a t i o n s

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 59/553

Bath and Shower Products 37

Silky

Bath Gel

R ho di ge l i s used as a t h i c k e n e r and foam s t a b i l i z e r f o r t h i s

s i l k y ba th ge l fo rm ul a . Vansea l NALS-30 p ro v i de s foam enhancement

and s k i n c o n d i t i o n i n g p r o p e r t i e s . The c oc oa mi do pr op yl b e t a i n e

and sodium l a u r e t h s u l f a t e s u r f a c t a n t s p r o v i d e good c l e a n i n g

and r i n s i n g p r o p e r t i e s f o r t h i s f o r m u l a . The g l y c e r i n a nd PPG-3

m y r i s t y l e t h e r a r e e m o l l i e n t s wh ich c o n t r i b u t e t o t h e e le g an t

a f t e r f e e l .

I n q r e d i e n t

:

A

Rhodige l

De io ni zed Water

G1

y c e r i n

B

Vanseal NALS-30

Cocoami dop rop y l be ta

Sodium l a u r e t h s u l f a

C

PPG-3 m y r i s t y l e t h e r

P r e s e r v at i v e , c o l o r ,

( 2 )

L e x a i n e

C

( 3 ) S i p o n

ES-2

4 )

Promyr is ty l PM-3

P r e p a r a t i o n

ne

( 2 )

e (3 )

4 )

f r a g r a n c e

‘YO

bv

W t .

0 . 5 0

5 5 . 0 0

1 . o o

8 . 0 0

1 6 . 0 0

1 6 0 0

3 . 5 0

q . s

Add Rh od ige l t o t h e wa te r s l o w l y , w h i l e a g i t a t i n g a t h i g h

shear . Rhod ige l

w i l l

become u n i f o r m l y d i s t r i b u t e d t h r o u g h ou t

t h e w a te r and t h i c k e n i n g w i l l b e g i n .

A t

t h i s t i me , a d j u s t t o

g e n t l e m i x i n g . G e n t l e , u n i f o r m m i x i n g w i l l s o l u b i l i z e t h e

R h od ig e l i n t i m e and w i l l a l s o m i n i m i z e a i r e n t r a p m e n t. Add

g l y c e r i n and mix u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add A t o 50C and h o l d t h i s

t e m p e ra t u re whi l e a d d i ng re ma i n i ng ng re d i en ts . Add B gred-

i e n t s i n o rd er u s in g g e n t le m i x i n g t o a v o id a i r e nt r ap me nt .

A d d i t io n o f

C w i l l

t h i c k e n f o rm u l a t o a ge l c o n s i s t e n c y .

C o ns is te n cy : F lo w ab le g e l . ( V i s c o s i t y :

8 0 0 0 - 1 0 0 0 0

c p s )

Su gg e st ed Pa c ka g in g : Squeeze b o t t l e o r t u b e .

Comment

s

development

o f

new produc ts

o r

im pro ve me nt o f e x i s t i n g o ne s.

S O U R C E R . T . V a n d e r b i l t C o . , I n c . : F or mu la No.

4 2 9

T h i s p r o t o t y p e f o r m ul a i s de sig ne d t o s e rv e as a g u id e f o r t h e

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 60/553

38

Cosmetic

and

Toiletry

Formulations

Water White Shower Gel

Sandopan DTC ac id , used as t h e secondary s u r f a c t a n t , c o n t r i b -

u t e s t o t h e m i ld n e ss o f t h e s u r f a c t a n t s yste m. V els an P8-3 i s

an e m o l l i e n t e s t e r t h a t adds a v e l v e t y f e e l t o

c r y s t a l c l e a r , w a t er w h i t e shower g e l - h a s good

fo am ing c h a r a c t e r i s t i c s .

t h e s k i n . T h i s

v i s c o s i t y and

m r e d i e n t s :

Standapol ES-3

Sandopan DTC A c i d

Lauramide

DEA

Velsan P8-3

Glucamate DOE-120

Germaben

I 1

Versene NA

Fragrance

Deion ized Water

Procedure :

Phase

A :

H vd ra te Glucamate DOE-120 and Versene

41 .2 5

10.00

3 . 3 0

2

. o o

1

. 7 0

1 . o o

0.10

0 . 0 5

q s

NA

i n a l l o f t h e

d e i o n i z e d w a t e r .

a d j u s t pH t o

6 . 0 .

Phase

B

Add rem a in ing i n g r e d i e n t s i n o rd e r . Combine Phase A&B,

P r o p e r t

s :

Formulat ion CHS-51

V i s c o s i t y : 8500 c ps S o l i d s :

29.0%

pH: 6 . 0

Shower Gel

Sandobet SC a nd Sandopan DTC a c i d c o n t r i b u t e t o t h e m i l d n e s s

of

t h e s u r f a c t a n t sy ste m and add t o t h e f oa min g p r o p e r t i e s o f

t h e shower g e l . V e ls a n P8-3 i s an e m o l l i e n t e s t e r t h a t adds a

v e l v e t y f e e l t o t h e s k i n . T h i s c r y s t a l c l e a r shower g e l h as

good v i s c o si t y and fo am in g c h a r a c t e r i s t i c s .

I n g r e d i e n t s :

Standapol ES-3

4 6 . 4 0

Sandobet

SC

10.00

Sandopan DTC A c i d 5 . 6 0

Laurami de

DEA

3.30

Velsa n P8-3 2. 00

Glucamate DOE-120

1 . 7 0

Germaben

I 1 1 . o o

Versene NA

0 . 1 0

Fragrance

0 . 0 5

Deio n i zed Wate r

q s

Procedure :

Phase

A :

H y d r a te Glucamate DOE-120 and Versene

NA

i n a l l

o f

t h e

Phase

B

Add rem a in ing i n g r ed ie n t s i n o rd e r . Combine Phase A&B,

Formulat ion CHS-52

SOURCE: Sandoz Chemica ls Co rp . : Sugges ted Fo rm ul a t i on s

d e i o n i z e d w a t e r ,

a d j u s t pH t o

6 . 0

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 61/553

Section

IV

Beauty

Aids

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 62/553

40 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Aloe Vera Skin Freshner

I n p r e d i e n t s :

A . D e i on i zed w a te r

S t e a r i c a c i d t r i p l e p ressed

G l y c e r o l

Percen t

49.50

18.00

5.00

B . Po ta ss i um hy dr o xi de 1 . 2 0

C . D e i on i zed w a te r

Veragel 200 powder

5 .00

0.25

D . W i tc h H azel E x t r ac t 25.80

Procedure:

Heat Par t A t o 70C. w i t h s t i r r i n g . S lo w ly add P a r t B t o

P a r t

A .

Cool t o 40C. w i t h s t i r r i n g . Combine P a r t C and add t o

P a r t

A

a n d P a r t

B.

Add Par t D w i t h s t i r r i n g , c oo l t o 25C.

Package a t room tem per atu re .

Powder Mask Activator

I n a r e d i e n t s : P e r c e n t

De ion ized Water 95 .3

Croquat

M

(Cocodimonium Hydro l yzed An ima l P ro te in ) 0 . 5

Incronam AL-30 (Almondami dop rop y l Be ta in e) 0 .5

Honey 1.2

A l o e V e ra g el L i q u i d 1

. o

L i p o f u i t Cucumber 0.5

Germaben

I 1

1 . o

Procedure :

Dissolve Germaben

I 1

i n wa te r . When un i fo rm , add Inc ronam

AL-30. N ex t d i s so l v e a l o e , honey and cucumber ex t r a c t . M i x w e l l .

Add Croquat

M.

A d j us t pH t o pH 4 .2+ -0 .1 w i t h 10% T E A . Immed ia te l y

p r i o r t o a p p l i c a t i o n m ix t h e tw o components t o f o rm a t h i c k

pas te . Recommended use 1 : l r a t i o .

SOURCE: D r . M a d i s L a b o r a t o r i e s I n c . : Sugges ted Formu la t i ons

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 63/553

Beauty Aids

41

Blemish/Scar Concealer

P r o t o p e t 1S P e t r o l a t u m

C a r n a t i o n

M i

n e r a l

O i

1

Oc ty l dodecano l

O z o k e r i t e

P heny l d i me th i cone

H yd ro ge na te d c a s t o r o i l

S y n t h e t i c r e s i n

P ropy l pa raben

A n t i o x i d a n t

T a l c

C1 ay

S i l i c a

T i t a n iu m d i o x i d e

I r o n

o x i d e s

Skin Cleanser with Porous Cellulose Particles

Beeswax

P a r a f f i n

P r o t o p e t 1s P e t r o l a t u m

C a r n a t io n M i n e r a l O i l

S o r b i t a n S e sq u io l ea t e

P o l y o x y e t h y l e n e s o r b i t a n m o n o o l e a t e

Water

Fragrance

Porous C e l l u l o s e p a r t i c l e s

9 .80%

1 6 0 0

6 0 0

2 . 5 0

1

6 0

2 . 0 0

0 . 5 0

0 . 2 0

0 . 1 0

8 . 0 0

8 . 0 0

0 . 3 0

41 . O O

4 . 0 0

3 . 0 0 %

5 . 0 0

15.00

41 - 0 0

4 . 2 0

0 . 8 0

2 5 . 0 0

1 . o o

5 . 0 0

SOURCE: W i t c o C o r p . : P e t r o le u m S p e c i a l t i e s Gro up: S ug ge st ed

Formul a t ons

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 64/553

42 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Body Scrub

I n g r e d i e n t s :

( 1 ) Benton i te (NF g rade)

( 2 )

Dei on i zed Water

( 3 ) Beeswax

(4)

S p e r m a c e t i c , s y n t h e t i c

(5)

Sor b i t o 1 Monopa lymatate

( 6 )

P o l y s o r b a t e

60

( 7 ) C e t y l A lc o h o l

( 8 )

L i g h t M in e ra l O i 1

(9)

S i l t e x

-50 +lo0

Mesh

P r e s e r v a t i v e , C o l o r , & Perfume

%

bv Weight

3 . 0

6 0 . 2

1 . 4

1.4

3.3

3.3

2 . 8

1 8 . 6

6 . 0

q . s .

Procedure:

mix and hea t

(3),

(4),

( 5 ) ,

(6),

(7),

and

( 8 )

t o 80C. Add t o

w a t e r p ha se w i t h h i g h a g i t a t i o n . Slo w m i x e r and add ( 9 ) . Cool

b e f o r e f i l l i n g c o nt a in er s .

p roduc t used .

a b l e i n g r e d i e n t s .

D i spe rse ( 1 ) i n t o ( 2 ) and h e a t t o 70C. I n s ep a r a t e c o n t a i n e r ,

F o l l o w recommended h a n d l i n g p r a c t i c e s o f t h e s u p p l i e r o f each

Good i n d u s t r i a l p r a c t i c e s s h o u l d b e us ed when h a n d l i n g flam m-

Body Powder

I n o r e d i e n t s :

%

bv Wei

Qht

( 1 ) Z i n c S t e a r a t e

5 . 0

( 2 )

Z i nc Ox i de

5 . 0

( 3 ) Magnesium C arbona te ( l i g h t )

1 5 . 0

( 4 )

Kaopo l i te TLC

7 5 . 0

( 5 )

Fragrance, P igments ,

&

P r e s e r v a t i v e

q . s .

Procedure:

16 h o u r s . D r y m ix r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s .

used.

SOURCE:

K a o p o l i t e , I n c . : S uggested F o rm u l a t i on s

M ix f r a g r a n c e w i t h ( 3 ) and a l l o w t o s t a n d f o r a p p ro x im a t el y

F o l l o w recommended p r a c t i c e s o f t h e s u p p l i e r o f e ach p r o d u c t

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 65/553

Beauty

Aids 43

Cheek Rouge

Mat e r i a1s :

1 . M i n e r a l

O i l SUS

65/75

2. Ceraphy l 368

3 .

Castorwax

4. Beeswax

5 . Super Corona Lano l i n

6 . Lexgard P

7 . Bentone Gel M I 0 r h e o lo g i c a l a d d i t i v e

8 .

Pigment Concent ra te*

9 . Timiron Pearl Sheen MP-30

10 .T a l c 1623

11 .32 8 T i a n i um D io x id e CTFA

1 2 . C o l o r No. 7055 Pur Oxy Yel low B.C.

13 .Co lo r

No.

7153 Lo-Micron P i nk B.C.

14.Perfume

*P igment Concen t ra te :

C o l o r

No.

3121 D

& C

Red. No. 21

C a s t o r O i l

% by Weigh t

17.00

1 5 . 0 0

2.50

6 .00

10 .00

0.15

15 .00

3 . 0 0

4.00

18 .00

6 . 0 0

1 . 5 0

1 .50

0 . 3 5

3 0 . 0 0

70.00

M a n uf a ct u r i n g D i r e c t i o n s :

1 . We igh i tem s 1 th r oug h 5 i n t o a s t a i n l e s s s t e e l j ac ke te d

2 . B r i n g t emp era tu r e down t o 80C. Add and m i x i n i t em

7

u n t i l i t

3. Add and mix i t e m 8 f o r 5 m in ut es o r u n t i l d i s pe rs ed .

4 . Add i tems 9 th ro ug h 13. Add each powder sep ar at e l y , mak ing

k e t t l e . Heat t o 85C u n t i l m e l te d c l e a r .

i s homogeneous. M i x f o r 10 m i nu te s .

s u r e t h a t each pig me nt i s p r o p e r l y d i s p e rs e d b e f o r e t h e n e x t

a d d i t i o n .

5 .

Add i t e m 14 and mi x .

N o t e :

smooth, homogeneous f i n i s h e d p r od uc t .

SOURCE: Rheox, I n c . : Formu la T S - 1 2 9

I t e m s 1 0 t h r o u g h 13 s h o u ld b e m i c r o p u l v e r i z e d t o a c h i e ve a

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 66/553

44

Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations

Concealing Stick

T h i s p r o d u c t c o v e r s f i n e f a c i a1 1 es and b l em i sh e s n a t u r a l y ,

l e a v i n g a f l e x i b l e b a r r i e r w hic h a l s o r e t a i n s m o i s t u re and

c o n d i t i o n s t h e s k i n . C er a B e l l i n a ( Pg -3 Beeswax) i s use d as a

p ig m en t d i s p e r s e r w h ic h makes t h i s f o r m u l a t i o n e a s i e r a nd t h e r e b y

a v o i d in g t h e expense o f m i l l i n g .

Phase A:

Cas to r O i l (Caschem)

P e t ro l a tum, W h i t e (W i t co )

S y n t h e t i c C a n d e l i l l a ( K o s t e r Keunen)

I so p r op y l P a l m i t a te (Un ichema)

Carnauba Wax ( K o s t e r Keunen)

Orange Wax ( K o s t e r Keunen)

Jo jo ba Wax ( F l o r a Tech)

P a r a f f i n Wax 130/135 (Ko ste r Keunen)

O z o k e r i t e 1 7 0 (Koster Keunen)

Squa lane (Barne t )

V i t a m i n E (Roche)

Phase 8 :

Cera B e l l i n a (Pg-3 Beeswax, Ko ste r Keunen)

T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e ( W h i t t a k e r

C &

D )

Cosmet ic Tan I r o n Ox ide (Sun Chemica l )

Brown I r o n Ox ide (Sun Chemica l )

Phase

C :

L i q u i p a r ( S u t to n )

27.3%

22.0%

10.0%

6.0%

5.0%

5.0%

4.0%

1.5%

1.0%

1 .0%

0 .5%

9.0%

5 .0%

1.5%

0.2%

1

.O%

Procedure :

Heat and mix Phase B

t i l l

p i g m e n t s a r e e v e n l y d i s p e r s e d .

Weigh Phase A and i n d i v i d u a l l y add t o P hase B w h i l e m i x i n g .

Heat

AB

t i l l homogeneous, add Phase C, co ol and pour a t 60C.

A da pt io n o f f o rm u la and i t s i n f l u e n c e

on

t h e p r o d u c t :

By r e d u c i n g t h e wax c o n c e n t r a t i o n t h i s p r o d u c t c an b e

p o u re d i n t o a compact t r a y . L a rg e v a r i a t i o n s c an b e made i n

wax and o i l c o n ce n t ra t io n s t h a t a re i n co r po r a te d i n s t i c k

p r o du c ts and s t i l l p rod uce a s i m i l a r f i n i s h e d p r o d uc t .

SOURCE: Kos te r Keunen, I n c . : Suggested Form u la t i on s

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 67/553

Beauty Aids 45

Cream Eye Shadow

I n a r e d i e n t s :

( 1 ) B e n t o n i t e ( N F g r a d e )

( 2 )

C ar bo xy me th yl C e l l u l o s e ( l o w v i s c o s i t y )

( 3 ) Deion ized Water

( 4 ) Sodium L a u r y l S u l f a t e

( 5 ) P r o p y le n e G l y c o l

( 6 )

T r i

et ha no l ami ne

(7 ) K a op o l i t e TLC

( 8 ) T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e ( c o s m e ti c g r a d e )

( 9 ) I r o n O xid es ( c o s m et i c g ra de , f o r d e s i r e d

( 1 0 ) S t e a r i c A c i d

( 1 1 ) G l y c e r y l M o no s te a ra t e

( 12 ) Lanol

( 13)Sesame

O i

1

( 1 4 ) O l i v e O i l

( 1 5 ) I so p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e

( 1 6 ) F r a gr a n c e and P r e s e r v a t i v e

%

bv Weight

2 . 0

0 . 2

49.3

0 . 3

5 . 0

0 . 4

20 .0

5 . 5

c o l o r ) 4 .5

0 . 8

2 . 0

4 . 0

2 . 0

1 . o

3 .0

q . s .

Procedure:

c o n t i n u e t o d i s p e r s e . Sl o w l y add ( 4 ) , ( 5 ) , ( 6 ) , ( 7 ) , ( E) , and

( 9 ) . C o n ti n ue m i x i n g a t h i g h speed u n t i l w e l l d i s p e r s e d . Heat

t h i s m i x t u r e t o 65C and d ea e ra te . I n a s e pa r a te c o n t a i n e r m ix

( l o ) , ( l l ) , ( 1 2 ) , ( 1 3 ) , ( 1 4 ) , and ( 1 5) , and h ea t t o 70C u n t i l

u n i fo rm . Add t h i s m i x t u r e s l o w l y t o ( 1 - 9) w h i l e under a g i t a t i o n .

C o nt in u e t o m ix u n t i l c o o l . ( 1 6) can be added t o e i t h e r ( 1- 9)

m i x t u r e o r a t t h e end depend ing on t h e recommendations o f t h e

s u p p l r .

Fo l l ow recommended h an d l i n g p r a c t i c e s

o f

t h e su p p l i e r o f

each product used.

Good i n d u s t r i a l p r a c t i c e s s h o u l d b e use d when h a n d l i n g

f lammab le g red i en t s .

M ix ( 1 ) i n t o ( 3 ) w i t h h i g h she ar u n t i l d i s pe r s ed . Add

( 2 )

and

Dry Powder Rouge Base

I n a r e d i e n t s :

( 1 L an ol i n Al c oh o l A c e ta t e

( 2 ) Z i n c S t e a r a t e

( 3 ) Kaopo l i te TLC

(4) Magnes ium S teara te

( 5 )

F r a g r a n c e , P r e s e r v a t i v e s , & Pigments

%

by Weiqht

4 . 0

6.0

88.0

2 . 0

q . s .

Procedure:

D ry m i x and p ress as re qu i r ed .

F o l l ow recommended hand l i ng p rac t i ces o f t h e s u p p l i e r o f e ach

p roduc t used .

SOURCE:

K a o p o l i t e , I n c . : S ug ge st ed

F o r m u l a t i o n s

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 68/553

46 Cosmetic and Toilehy Formulations

Cream Facial Scrub

P a r t A :

G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e SE*

M i n e r a l

O i l

Saf f 1ower O i 1

Sesame O i l

Squalene

D i o c t y l A d i p a t e ( an d) O c t y l S t e a r a t e ( a n d) O c t y l

P a lm i t a t e * *

S t e a r i c A c i d

C e t y l A l c o h o l

H y d ro x yp r o py l M e t h y l c e l l u l o s e * * *

P a r t B :

Water

Aloe Vera Gel

Germaben I 1

P a r t C :

T r i

et ha no l ami ne

P a r t D:

Acuscrub 44

Procedure:

S e p a r a t e l y co mb in e P a r t

A

and Par t B i n g r e d i e n t s a n d

t o 8OC w i t h a g i t a t i o n . S l o w ly a dd P a r t A t o P a r t

B

w i t h

a t i o n . Add P a r t C and b e g i n t o c o o l . A t 50C, moderately

A cu sc ru b 44 and s t i r u n t i l smooth and u n i f o r m .

* Henkel/Emery (Eme rest 2407)

* *

Caschem (Wickenol 163)

*** Dow Chem ical Co. (M et ho ce l 40-100)

Wt%

5 . 0

5 . 0

1

. o

1 . o

1 . o

1 . o

2 . 5

0 5

0 5

68.7

1

. o

1

a

1 . o

1 0 . 0

h e a t

a g i t -

add

Oil-In-Water Cream and

ts

Scrub Derivative

%

2. S t e a r i c A c i d 0 . 5

3 . Lanogene ( l a n o l i n a l c o h o l & m in e r a l o i l ) 6 . 0

4 . I s o p r o p y l p a l m i t a t e 12.5

5 .

S o r b i t a n M o no s te a ra te

1 . 3

6 . P o l y o x y e t h y l e n e 2 0 S o rb i t an Monosteara te 1

a

7 . S orbo ( s o r b i t o l 70%, w a te r 30%) 5 . 0

8 . Car bop ol 940 1 . o

9.

Germaben I 1

0 . 8

10. Water 68.35

11 . T r i e tha no l ami ne

0.75

12.Perfume Q . S .

Weigh 1 -6 , t hen w e igh 7-10 . H ea t 7-10 w i t h a g i t a t i o n us i n g a

1 . A-C 617 P o l y e t h y l e n e 2 . 0

Procedure:

homomixer o r c o l l o i d m i l l . When th e aqueous so l u t i o n reaches

8 5 C ,

h e a t o i l ph ase t o 90-95C

w i t h

s lo w a g i t a t i o n u n t i l a l l t h e wax

has d i ss o l ve d . Combine 1-10 and shear u n t i l m ix tu re i s homogen-

eous.

Add

11

and shear we l l . Cool t o 55C and add 12.

SOURCE: AlliedSignal Inc.: Suggested Formulations

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 69/553

Beauty Aids

47

Cream-to-Powder Eye Shadow with Dry-Floc PC

D r y F l o c PC, a h i g h l y w at er r e s i s t a n t s ta r c h , p r o v id e s a

D e rm a cr yl LT p r o v i d e s w a te r r e s i s t a n c e , i n c r e a s e d m o i s t u r e

s i l k y smooth e le g an t f e e l , and i s t a l c f r e e .

p r o t e c t i o n a s w e l l a s im p ro v ed c o v er a g e.

I n a r e d i e n t s : %w/w

Phase A :

Eutano l

G

13.00

Der mac ryl LT 1

. o o

Phase B :

M u lt iw ax W-835 0.30

Be nton e Ge l VS-5 PC 30 .00

Phase C:

M y r i t o l 318 3 .0 0

T r i v e n t SS-20 0. 50

Emerest 2452 4. 00

V i t a m i n E A c e t a t e 0 . 1 0

I s o p a r

H

7.40

Cab-0-Si 1 TS-530 0. 50

Sp ec tr ap ea r l BLG 10.00

D ry -F l o PC 30.00

Phenoxyethanol 0 .20

Procedure:

t o BOC, mix u n t i l com plete . Add Phase 8, mix th or ou gh ly . Combine

Phase C . Add Phase C t o A / B mix thor ou gh ly . Cool t o room temp-

e r a t u r e .

Formula 8302-115

Phase

A,

s l o w ly s i f t D erm acry l LT i n t o O c t y l D o de ca no l, h e a t

Liquid Talc

T ap ioca F l o u r g i ve s a s o f t p owdery a f t e r f e e l and i s t a l c f r e e .

I n a r e d i e n t s :

SD Alc oh ol 40 (190 P ro o f)

Crodacol S-95NF

yU

54.00

0.75

V i t a m i n E

1 . o o

Dexpanthenol

1 . o o

Tween 80 0 .75

Fancol ALA

1 . o o

Esta lan 430

10.00

Dermol 89

6.00

Dermol 105

4.00

Ceraphyl 375

0.75

Ethomeen C-25

2.00

Carbopol 1382

0 .75

Tap ioca

18.00

Ethomeen C-25

q s pH 7.00

Combine a l l i n g r ed i e n t s excep t C a rbopo l 1382 and T ap i oca . M i x

w i t h good a g i t a t i o n u n t i l u n i fo rm . S lo w ly s i f t i n Carbopol 1382.

M ix u n t i l c o mp le te ly d i sp ersed . S i f t i n T ap ioca . M ix u n t i l u n i -

form. Add Ethomeen C-25 t o o b t a i n pH o f 7.0 package.

Form ul a 791 5-68

SOURCE: N a t i o n a l S t a r c h and Chem ical Co. : Suggested Formulas

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 70/553

48 Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations

Creamy Eye Shadow

Ma te r i a1 s :

1 . I s o p r o p y l L a n o l a t e - D i s t i

2 . S t e a r y l A l c o h o l

3 . Beeswax

4. Ganex V-220

5 . Cyc lometh i cone

6 . S o l t r o l 100

7 . Hi-S i1 T-600

8 . Bentone Gel SS71 rh e o lo g

%

bv Weight

1 ed 2. 0

3 . 0

6 .0

5.0

3 .0

5 .0

0 . 8

c a l a d d i t i v e 45 .0

6 .0

. C hroma- l i t e D a rk B l ue

10 .50% 328 T i ta n i um D io x id e

CTFA Extended w i t h T a lc 141

1 1 .F1 amenco

V el ve t -1 00

1 2 , P r e s e r v a t i v e

20 .0

4.0

0 . 2

M a n u f a c t u r i n g D i r e c t i o n s :

1 . Weigh i t e m s 1 t o 4 i n t o a s t a i n l e s s s t e e l j a c k e t e d k e t t l e .

2 . B r i n g t empera tu re down t o 65C. Add 5 and s l o w l y w h i l e m i x i ng

3 . Ma in ta in t empe ra tu re t o 65C. Add and mix i t em s 7 and 8 u s i n g

4. Add i tems 9 and 1 0. M ix t h o r o u gh l y a f t e r each a d d i t i o n t o

5. Add i te ms 11 and 12 and mix f o r 5 minu tes .

6 . P ou r a t 62-63C j u s t be fo re i t s t a r t s c o ng e al in g .

Formula TS-249

Heat t o 70C u n t i l m e lt ed c l e a r .

t o a v o i d sudden c o o l i n g . M i x f o r 5 m i n ut e s.

a homomixer a t medium speed. Mi x u n t i l homogeneous ( lump f r e e )

d i s p e r s e p i g m e n t s u n i f o r m l y .

Waterproof Eye Liner

M a t e r i a l s :

1 . Beeswax

2. Ganex V-220

3 . S h e l l Sol 71

4 . B en tone Gel SS71 rh eo l o g i c a l a d d i t i v e

5 . P r e s e r v a t i v e

6 . C h roma- l i t e B l a ck

% bv Wei q h t

16 .5

5 . 0

35 .0

33.5

0 .2

9 .8

M a n u f a c t u r i n g D i r e c t i o n s :

1 . Weigh i tems 1 and 2 i n t o a s t a i n l e s s s t e e l j ac ke te d k e t t l e .

Heat t o 70C and h o l d u n t i l m e lt ed c l e a r .

2 . B r i n g t empera tu re down t o 65C. Add i t em 3 s l ow l y , w h i l e

m i x i n g , t o a v o i d sudden c o o l i n g . M i x f o r 5 m in u t es .

3 . Ma i n t a i n t empera tu re a t 60C. Add and m i x i n i t em 4 us i n g a

homomixer a t medium speed. Mi x u n t i l homogeneous.

NOTE: A c l e a n chrome s p a t u l a d i pp e d i n t o t h e g e l mass

w i l l

show an even s u r f a c e sheen, w i t h no agglo mera tes when

p rope r1y

d i

spersed

.

4. Add i t em s 5 and 6 se pa ra te l y . M i x t ho rou gh l y a f t e r each

a d d i t i o n .

5 . P ou r a t 55-60C j u s t b e f o r e i t s t a r t s c o n g e a l i n g .

Formula TS-189

SOURCE:

Rheox, I n c . : Suggested Form u la t i on s

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 71/553

BeautyAids 49

Creamy Matte Make UP Base

I n a r e d i e n t s :

(1 ) De ion ized Water

( 2 ) B e n t o n i t e ( N F grade)

( 3 ) C a rb o xy m et hy l C e l l u l o s e (medium v i s c o s i t y )

(4) Tamol N

( 5 ) P r op y le n e G l y c o l

( 6 ) Kaopol i te TLC

( 7 ) T i t a n i u m D i o x id e

(8) I r o n O xi de ( m i c r o n i z e d )

( 9 ) I s o p r op y l M y r i s t a t e

( 1 0 ) S o r b i t o l M o n o l a u r a t e

( 11 )P o l yso rb a t e 20

( 1 2 ) S t e a r y l A l c o h o l

13)Amerchol-L-l Ol

Perfume

&

P r e s e r v a t i v e

% bv Weiaht

54.20

3.00

0.50

0.30

5 .0 0

19.80

3 .70

1 .50

5.00

0 .75

2 .25

2.00

2.00

q . s .

Procedure:

M ix w i t h h i g h s he ar

( l ) ,

(2 ) , and

( 3 )

u n t i l w e l l d is pe rs ed

(a pp ro x i m at e l y 20 min ute s) . Add (41, (51, (61, (71, and

8 )

an d h e a t t o a p pr o x i m a te l y 60C. I n a se p a r a t e c o n t a i n e r , m i x

( 9 ) , ( l o ) , ( l l ) , ( 12 ) , and (13 ) and hea t t o 70C w h i l e m i x i n g .

Add t o t h e o t h e r m i x and c o n t in u e m i x i n g u n t i l c o o l .

each p roduc t used .

f l ammab le a re d i en t s .

F o l l o w recommended h a n d l i n g p r a c t i c e s o f t h e s u p p l i e r o f

Good i n d u s t r i a l p r a c t i c e s s h o u l d be us ed when h a n d l i n g

- -

Liquid Make-Up

I n a r e d i e n t s :

( 1 ) Deion ized Water

( 2 ) B e n t o n i t e

( N F

arade)

%

bv Weiah

66.

I .

i

( 3 ) C a rb o xy m et hy l C e l l u i o s e (medium v i s c o s i t y ) 0 .5

( 4 ) T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e 1 . o

(5) Tamol-N 0 . 4

( 6 ) Lexanol PG 900

5 . 0

(7 ) Ka op o l i t e TLC 7 .0

( 8 ) T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e ( c o s m e t ic g r a de ) 2 . 0

( 9 ) I r o n O x id e ( m i c ro n iz e d ) 1 . o

(10)Lexmul P 0 . 5

( 1 1 ) I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e

5 .0

( 12 )L e xa te I L 4 .5

1 3 ) S t e a r i c A c i d 2 . 0

( 14)M i n e r a l

O i

1 3 .0

P r e s e r v a t i v e & F rag rance q . s .

P rocedure :

d i sp e rs e u n t i l un i f o rm . Reduce speed and add (4 ) , ( 5 ) ,

(61,

(71,

(8 ) , and ( 9 ) . Heat t o 70C. I n a s ep a r a t e c o n t a i n e r , h e a t a nd m i x

( l o ) ,

( l l ) , (12) , (13) and ( 1 4 ) t o 70C. C o nt in u e m i x i n g u n t i l

d i s s o l v e d . Add t h i s t o t h e aq ue ou s p ha se . C o n ti n ue m i x i n g an d

c o o l t o 30C.

F o l l o w recommended ha nd l i n g p r a c t i c e s

o f

t h e s u p p l i e r

o f

each p roduc t used .

Good i n d u s t r i a l p r a c t i c e s s h o u l d b e u s ed when h a n d l i n g

f 1ammab le i ng red ien ts .

SOURCE: K a o p o l i t e , I n c . : S ug ge ste d F o r m u l a t i o n s

D i sp e r se ( 2 ) i n t o ( 1 ) a t h j g h sp ee d. Add ( 3 ) and c o n t i n u e t o

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 72/553

5 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Creamy Roll-On Lip Gloss

Mater 1 s :

1 . Indopol H-100

2 . I s o p r o p y l a n 50

3 . P ropy l pa raben

4 .

Tenox

4

5 . B entone Gel LO1 R heo l og i ca l A d d i t i v e

6 .

Pigment Concent ra te*

7 . T im ir o n Super Red

8 . Perfume

*Pigment Concent ra te :

C as to r

O i l

C o l o r No. 3106

D&C

Red

No. 6

%

bv Wei a h t

52 .0

2 4 . 5

0 . 1

0 . 1

20 .0

0 . 2

3 . 0

0 . 1

6 0 . 0

40.0

M a n u f a c t u r i n g D i r e c t i o n s :

1 . Weigh i tems

1

t h r o u g h 4 i n t o

a

s t a i n l e s s steam ja c k e t k e t t l e .

2 . B r i n g t empera tu re down t o 75C; add and m i x i n i t e m 5 us i n g

3 . Add i t e m 6 and m i x f o r 5 m in u t e s o r u n t i l d i s p e r s e d ; t h e n add

4 . C on t i nue m i x i n g a t medium speed and l ow e r t empera tu re t o 60C.

Heat t o 8 0 C and h o l d u n t i l m e l te d c l e a r .

homomixer a t medium speed. Mix f o r 10 min ute s a t 75C.

i t em 7 and m i x f o r ano the r 5 m i nu t es .

Add i tem

8 .

Remove he at and a l l o w mass t o come t o room temp-

e r a t u r e .

P igment C oncen t ra te P r ep a r a t i on :

1 .

Weigh d r y powder i n t o t h e c a s t o r o i l u s i n g

a

slow speed

2 . G iv e t h i s c o n c e n t ra t e two passes ov e r a t h r e e r o l l m i l l a t

SOURCE: Rheox, I n c . : Suggested Formula T S- 190

H ob ar t t y p e mi xe r u n t i l u n i f or m .

room tempera tu re .

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 73/553

Beauty Ai

51

Deep Extra Body Conditioner

T h is f o rm u la u t i l i z e s t h e g e l l i n g p r o p e r t i e s o f t h e H exane-

d i o l Behenyl Beeswax i n a s i l i c o n e o i l and c o n d i t i o n i n g e f f e c t s

o f B ee 's M i l k .

Oil Phase A :

Em ul s i fy in g Wax NF (Koster Keunen)

S i l i c o n e O i l 245 (Dow)

S i 1 con e O i 1 556 (Dow)

Hexanediol Behenyl Beeswax (Koster Keunen)

L e c i t h i n

(Am.

L e c i t h i n )

L i q u a p a r ( S u t t o n )

Propy l Paraben (Su t ton)

Water Phase 0:

Carbopol 940 2% S o l u t i o n (BF Go odr ich )

Sod ium Laury l Su l fa te (DuPont )

T r i e t h a n o l ami ne (Dow)

Cocamide (Croda)

S i l k Powder (Dasco)

M ar in e Dew (Aj i nor not o)

S i l k S o l u b l e L i q u i d (Dasco)

Water ( D i s t i 11 ed)

Methy l Paraben (Sut ton)

Phase C:

B ee ' s M i l k (K os te r Keunen)

Fragrance (Aroma Tech)

3 .0%

2.5%

2.0%

1 .O%

1 .O%

0.5%

0 . 2 %

10.0%

0.5

0.1%

0.1%

0 . 1 %

0.1%

0.1%

68.3%

0.3%

1 0 . 0 %

0.2%

Procedure:

M i x and heat wate r phase t o 70-75C. Me l t o i l phase and add

t o w at er phase a t 70-75C u nd er a g i t a t i o n . C o n ti n ue m i x i n g w h i l e

c o o l i n g . A t 40C add phase C and po u r i n t o c o n t a i n e r a t 35C.

A d a pt a t i o n o f f o rm u la a nd I t s i n f l u e n c e on t h e p r o d u c t:

Changes i n t h e a c t i v e s and t h e c o n d i t i o n e r s a r e s t r a i g h t

f o rw a rd , s i mp l e rep l acements . Ga fqua t ' s w ou ld be a c l as s o f

c o n d i t i o n e r s w h i c h w o u l d

f i t

t h i s f or mu la w e l l .

SOURCE: Kos te r Keunen, I n c . : Suggested For mu l a t i o n

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 74/553

52 Cosmetic and Toiletry

Formulations

Emoll ient Liquid Make-up

C on ce al s m in or s k i n i m p e r f e c t i o n s y e t m o i s t u r i z e s , g i v i n g

sk i n a so f t dewy f i n i s h . T h i s P roduc t has tr emendous endu rance

t hr ou gh ve ry v ig or o us a c t i v i t i e s .

Phase

A :

Xanthan Gum ( K e l c o )

C e l l u l o s e Gum (Aqua lon)

Water ( D i s t i l l e d )

T r ie thano lamine (Dow)

PEG 1450 (Un ion Carb ide)

Methy l Paraben (Su t ton)

Pr op yl ene G1 y c o l (Dow)

P o l y s o r b a t e 60 ( G a l l a r d

&

S c h l e s i n g e r )

Phase

0:

T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e ( W h i t t a k e r

C&D)

Brown I r o n Ox ide (Warner -Jenk inson)

Y e l l o w BC I r o n Ox i des (W arne r -Jenki nson )

Orange Wax ( K o s t e r Keunen)

C era B e l l i n a (K os te r Keunen)

Phase

C :

O c t y l P a l m i t a t e ( B a r n e l )

S i l i c o n e 245 (Dow)

I sop rop y l P a l m i t a t e (U nichema)

Hydrogenated Castor O i l (Acme)

I s o s t e a r i c A c i d (Un ich em a)

Jo j oba

O i

1 (J o jo ba Growers )

Propy l ene G1 yco l S te ar a t e ( I n o l ex )

P r o p y l p a r a b e n ( S u t t o n )

Procedure:

D i sp er se p igments i n th e Orange Wax and Cera B e l l

beaker w i t h a g l as s s t i r r i n s r od , a l l o w t o s o l i d i f y .

0.33%

0.23%

50.55%

0.70%

2 35%

0.28%

1.88%

0.47%

8.44%

2.35%

0.94%

6.10%

4.69%

6.57%

2 00%

6.10%

1.41%

1.50%

0.

1

0

na i n

Repea

s o- as -t o b r ea k- u p v i s i b l e a p p lo m e r a t io n s . M ix and h e a t t o

75C phase

C

u n t i l u n i f o r m , add t o phase B u n d e r a g i t a t i o n ,

m a i n t a i n i n g t h e t em p er at ur e t i l l homogeneous. Add t h e mi xe d

. - . . .

-

.

. . . - .

. .

94%

89%

28%

a

ana m el te d phase

B

ana c t o t n e m ixed and m e l t ed phase

A .

C on ti nu e m i x i n g w h i l e c o o l i n g , p ou r i n t o c o n t a i n e r s a t

approx imate l y 50C.

A d ap t i on o f f o r m u la and i t s i n f l u e n c e on t h e p r o d u c t :

t u t e d i n m i no r a mounts s i n c e p r o d u c t s su ch a s t h e s e a r e sen-

s i t i v e t o s ma ll changes t h a t w i l l a f f e c t s t a b i l i t y .

SOURCE:

Kos te r Keunen, I n c . : Sugges ted For mu la t i on

S un sc re en s, v e g e t a b l e o i l s and b ra n ch e d o i l s can be s u b s t i -

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 75/553

Beauty Aids

53

Emulsion Makeup

P a r t A :

Amerchol L-1 01

Amer 1a t e

S t e a r i c a c i d , X X X

G l y c e r y l m on o st ea ra te , n e u t .

C a r n a t i o n

M i

n e r a l

O i 1

P a r t 8:

P r o p y l e n e g l y c o l

T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e

Water

T i t an iu m d i o x i d e , t a l c

&

pigments

P e r f u m e a n d p r e s e r v a t i v e

4 . 5 %

0 . 9

2 . 7

1 . 8

4 . 5

4 . 5

0 . 9

7 0 . 2

1 0 . 0

q . s .

Procedure:

Add Par t 8 t o

8 5

C e l s i us t o P a rt A a t 9 5 C e l s i u s w h i l e

s t i r r i n g . C on tin ue m i x i n g and co o l t o 30 C e l s i u s . Add t o t h e

m i c r o n iz e d powder b l e n d i n i n cr e m en t s, m i x i n g w e l l a f t e r each

a d d i t i o n .

Water-in-Oil Lotion Makeup

Magnesi um a1 umi num s i 1 a t e

D e i on i zed w a te r

Magnesi urn s u l f a t e

T a l c

Kao l n

T i t a n iu m d i o x i d e

I r o n O xid es

C a r n a t i o n

Hydrogenated p o l y i sobutene

C arna t i on (and )

1

an ol a1 coho1

S o r b i t o l 7 0 %

I s op r o py l l a n o l a t e (and) l e c i t h i n

Oleamide DEA

P r e s e r v a t i v e

P e rcen t

1 . 2

37 .9

0 . 4

1 . 5

1 . 5

5 . 0

3 . 0

1 5 . 0

8 . 0

8 . 0

5 . 0

7 . 0

2 . 5

q . s .

SOURCE: W i t c o C o r p .: P e t r o le u m S p e c i a l t i e s G ro up : S u gg es te d

F a r m u l a t i o n s

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 76/553

54

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Eye Contour Balm

The s k i n a ro un d t h e ey e i s t h i n n e r , more s e n s i t i v e and r a p i d l y

shows t h e s i g n s o f a g i n g and f a t i g u e s uc h as ; C r o w' s f e e t ,

s ag gin g s k i n , d a r k c i r c l e s and p u f f i n e s s . T h i s i s de sig ne d

u s i n g n a t u r e as a s t a r t i n g p o i n t . Much o f t h e p r o d u c t ' s a c t -

i v i t y comes f ro m m i l d l y r e f i n e d raw m a t e r i a l s t h a t keeps

i n t a c t t h e n a t u r a l p r o p e r t i e s , p r od u c in g a non-oi l y , q u i c k

p e n e t r a t i n g and f ra g r a n c e f r e e p r o d u c t . A l o w c o n c e n t r a t i o n

o f s y n t h e t i c p r e s e r v a t i v e i s needed due t o t h e m in o r components

o f a fe w o f t h e r aw m a t e r i a l s . W i t h r e g u l a r u se t h e a pp ea ra nce

o f a g in g w i l l be reduced .

O i l Phase:

Sweet Almond

O i

1 (Croda)

P r o p o l i s Wax ( Ko st er Keunen)

R ice B ran O i l F i l t e r e d ( K o s t e r K eunen)

S a f f l o w e r

O i l

( A r i s t a )

Orange Wax ( K o s t e r Keunen)

Hydrogena ted Cas to r O i l (CasChem)

V i t a m i n A Palmi ta te (BASF)

V i t a m i n E (Roche)

I s o s t e a r i c A c i d (Un ich em a)

C e ty l s t e a r y l A l coho l (P&G)

S qua l ene (P o l yes the r )

I sop ropy l P a l m i t a te (U n i chema)

G l yce ro l Monos tea ra te (H enke l )

Water Phase:

Water ( Di s t i 11ed)

G i n k g o B i l o b a ( V e r n i n )

A1

1

a n t o i n ( S u t t o n )

T r i

e th an ol ami ne (Dow)

Xanth an Gum (K e lc o )

Magnab r i t e S ( W h i t t a k e r

P o l y s o r b a t e 60 ( G e l l a r d

Methy l Paraben (Su t ton)

C & D)

& S c h l e s i n g e r )

4 . 0 %

5.0%

4.0%

2 . 0 %

1 .O%

0 .5%

0.5%

0 .5%

2 . 5 %

1.5%

1 .0%

2 . 0 %

2 . 0 %

69.6%

0.5%

0.5%

1 .O%

1 .O%

0.4%

0 . 2 %

0 . 3 %

Procedure :

under a g i t a t i o n and hea t and homogenize t o 75C. Add o i l phase

t o w a te r ph as e u nd er a g i t a t i o n . Cool a nd p ou r i n t o c o n t a i n e r

a t 45 t o 50C.

A da pt io n o f f o rm u l a and i t s i n f l u e n c e on t h e p r o du c t :

f r e e o f s y n t h e t i c s p r e s er v a t i v e s .

SOURCE:

Kos te r Keunen, In c . : Suggested Fo rm u la t i o n

Mix and hea t o i l phase t o 80C. Add components o f wa te r phase

W it h o n l y s l i g h t changes t h i s p r od u c t ca n be a l l n a t u r a l a nd

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 77/553

Beauty

Aids

55

Eye Mascara

I n g r e d i e n t s :

1 . A-C Po ly et hy le ne 617

2 .

A - C

Copolymer 540

3 . M in er a l S p i r i t s

4 . D i hydro abi e t y l A1 coho1

5 . C a n d e l i l l a Wax

6. A1 umi num S t e a r a t e

7 . Bu ty l Parahydroxy Benzoa te

8 . I r o n O x id e

WL

12.0

2 . 0

68 .0

5 . 0

2 . 4

0 . 5

0 .1

1 0 . 0

Procedure :

d i ss o lv e d . Then s p r i n k l e w i t h s t i r r i n g

6

and 7; when a l l i s

d i sso l ved , add 8 and shear w i t h homomixer o r g r i n d i n w i t h 3

r o l l m i l l .

M ix 1-5 and h e at w i t h a g i t a t i o n u n t i l a l l s o l i d waxes have

Eye

Mascara

I n g r e d i e n t s :

1 . M in er a l S p i r i t s

3 .

D i

h y d r o a b i e t y l A lc oh ol

4 . C a n d e l i l l a Wax

5 .

A1 umi num S t e a r a t e

6 . Buty l Parahydroxy Benzoa te

7 . I r o n O xi de

2 . A - C 617A

W B

70

12

5

2 . 4

0 . 5

0 . 1

10

Procedure :

d i ss o l v e d . Then s p r i n k l e w i t h s t i r r i n g 5 and 6 , when a l l i s

d i s so lv ed add 7 and shear w i t h homomixer

o r

g r i n d i n w i t h a

3 r o l l M i l l .

SOURCE: A l l i e d S ig n a l I n c . : Suggested F o rm u l a t io n s

M i x 1 -4 and h ea t w i t h a g i t a t i o n u n t i l a l l s o l i d waxes h ave

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 78/553

56 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Eye Mascara

T h i s f o r mu l a d em on st ra te s t h e s t a b i l i t y , d i s p e r s i v e and

r h e o l o g i c a l p r o p e r t i e s o f Cera B e l l i n a . The p ro d u ct i s q u ic k

d r y i ng on t h e eye l a sh and uses a mu l t i - p has e emu l s i on sys tem.

O i l

Phase:

Cera B e l l i n a (Pg-3 Beeswax, Ko st er Keunen) 15.0%

Gl yc e r o l Monos tea ra te (H enke l) 3 .5%

Orange Wax ( K o s t e r Keunen) 2. 0%

I so s te a r i c A c i d (Un ichema) 1

.O%

Propy l Paraben (Su t ton)

0 . 3 %

Water Phase:

Water ( D i s t i l l e d ) 63.6%

Sodium Bo ra te (Bora x) 1 .5%

Propy lene Gly co l (Dow) 1

.O%

C arboxy Me thy l C e l l u l o se (H e rcu l es ) 0 .2%

Methy l Paraben (Su t ton) 0 . 3 %

Alcohol Phase:

SDA-30 (Quantum) 9.0%

P u r i f i e d B la c k O xid e ( W h i t t a k e r ) 2 .6 %

Procedure:

Me l t C e ra B e l l i n a t o a maximum o f 75C. Then add t h e r e s t o f

t h e o i l phase w h i l e m i x i n g . Make su r e a l l i n g r e d i e n t s a r e m el te d.

I n a s ep a r a t e v e s s e l d i s s o l v e t h e com po nen ts of t h e w at e r p ha se .

Add t h e w at er phase t o t h e o i l phase, m a i n t a i n i n g t h e t e m pe r a tu r e

o f 75C f o r app rox i ma te l y 15 m i nu tes . A l l ow t o coo l s l o w l y . When

t h e temper&-ure i s 35-40C, add t h e a l co ho l phase under h i gh shea r

A d a pt a t i o n o f f or mu la and i t s i n f l u e n c e on t h e p r od u c t:

C ha ng in g t h e c o n c e n t r a t i o n s

o f

w a te r ( i n c r e a s e ) and s o l i d s

(de cre ase ) by sm al l amounts w i l l c o n t r o l t h e v i s c o s i t y . A v a r -

i e t y

of

p ig me nt s ca n be s u b s t i t u t e d t o s u i t p r o d u c ts needs.

Eyeliner Stick/Pencil

T h i s p r o d u c t i n c o r p o r a t e s a l a r g e p i gm e nt l o a d a t t h e same

t i m e a s h a v i n g a smooth, ev en a p p l i c a t i o n t o t h e s k i n . The

t e x t u r e i s r id g ed , h i g h l y c o lo r ed f o r l on g wear c h a r a c t e r i s t i c s ,

w i l l

n o t b l e ed and i s v e ry s t a b l e .

1 . T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e ( W h i t t a k e r C & D ) 25.0%

2 . Ce re si ne Wax 140/150 (K os te r Keunen) 15.0%

3 . Red D&C #7 (Wa rne r-J enk ins on) 12. 5%

4 . P u r i f i e d Navy B l ue ( W h i t t a k e r C &

D )

12.5%

5 . Cera B e l l i n a (Pg-3 Beeswax, Ko ste r Keunen) 10.0%

6 . G l y c e r o l T r i o c t a n o a t e ( B a r n e t ) 1 0.0 %

7 . E t h y le n e G l y c o l d i s t e a r a t e ( H en k e l) 5 .0 %

8 .

G1 y c e r o l

T r i

behenate (Croda) 5 .0%

9.

Hydrogenated Cas to r O i l (CasChem) 5.0%

Procedure:

Add 2, 5, 6, 7, 8 and

9

i n t o a v e s s e l . M e l t , m ix and m a i n t a i n a

tempera tu re o f 75C, add 1,3 and 4 u n de r h i g h s h e ar . M a i n t a i n

h i g h s he ar m i x i n g f o r 3 0-40 m i n u t e s. C oo l and p o u r i n t o m o l ds .

Lower p i gmen t l o ad and h i gh e r wax and o i l co nc en t ra t i o ns can

be s u b s t i t u t e d so-as -to f a c i l i t a t e t h e g r e a t e s t c o s t e f fe c t i v e -

n es s a nd a t t h e same t i m e , p r o du c e a l u x u r i o u s p r o d u c t .

SOURCE:

Koster

Keunen, I n c . : Suggested Form u la t i on s

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 79/553

Beauty

Aids

57

Face and Body Milk

A . M i g l y o l 8 4 0

I m w i t o r

900

Mar lowet

T A

6

Mar lowet T A 25

Jo jo ba o i l

Beeswax

P ropy l ene g l yco l monos tea ra te

B .

K e l t r o l g e l 1%

d-Panthenol USP

K a r i o n

F

Water

C . V i t a m i n E

D .

Perfume

P r e s e r v a t i v e

Wt$

1 2 . 0

3 .0

1 .2

2 . 1

4.0

2 . 0

1 . o

15.0

3 . 0

5 . 6

t o 1 00 .0

0 . 2

P r e p a r a t i o n

The c o n s t i t u e n t s o f A . a r e a dded t o g e t h e r a nd h e a te d t o

75-8OC. B. i s s t i r r e d w h i l e h ea te d t o t h e same t em p er at ur e.

B .

i s em u l s i f i e d i n A . C . and D . a r e added a t app rox. 30C.

P re p ar a t i o n o f t h e K e l t r o l g e l : K e l t r o l F 1 .O

Water t o 100 .0%

Both components a re added t og et he r a t room tem per atu re and

s t i r r e d u n t i l t h e homogeneous mi x fo rm s a c l e a r g e l .

L ip

Care

St ick

. S o f t i s a n 1 0 0

Dynac er i n

660

M i g l y o l 8 1 2

S o f t i s an

649

Vase1 e

Beeswax

H a r d p a r a f f

C e t y l a l c o h o l

Carnauba wax

. A n t i o x i d a n t s

Perfume

P r e p a r a t i o n :

A l l i n g r e d i a n t s a r e m el te d , s t i r r e d t o a creamy

u n t i l c o ld , perfume i n co r po r a te d b e f o r e c a s t i n g i n

SOURCE:

H u l s

A me ri ca I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n s

f o r

Cosmet

2 0 . 0

8 . 0

6 . 0

5 . 0

3 0 . 0

20.0

5 . 0

5 . 0

1 . o

q s

a s

c o n s i s t e n c y

o moulds.

c s :

Formulas

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 80/553

58 Cosmetic and

Toiletry Formulations

Face-Lotion

Ethanol 96%

S o f t i g e n 7 6 7

Hamamel

i

Spec

Ma rl owet R 4 0 / K

G l y c e r o l

Ampholyt J B 13

a1

Pant heno l

Camomi 1 e Speci a1

Perfume

P r e s e r v a t i v e

Water

%

3 . 0

10.0

0 .3

2 . 0

0 . 2

0 . 2

2 . 0

qs

qs

t o 10 0.0

5 . 0

P r e p a r a t i o n :

u n t i l homogeneous. The pH i s a d j u s t e d t o 5 . 5 - 6 . 5 .

The components a r e mixed to g et h er i n sequence and s t i r r e d

Skin

Tonic

Water without Alcohol

S o f t i g e n 7 6 7

1 , 2 -P ropy l ene g l y co l

E x t rapon 3 -S pec i a l

A1 l a n t o i n

Ma r l owet R 4 0 / K

Mentho l

V i t a m i n

F

Perfume

P r e s e r v a t i v e

Water

%

5 . 0

3 .0

4.0

0.5

0 . 5

0 . 3

0.2

qs

q s

t o 1 00 .0

P r e p a r a t i o n :

u n t i l homogeneous. The pH

i s

a d j u s t e d t o 5 .5 -6 .5 .

SOURCE: Huls A me ri ca I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n s f o r Co sm e ti cs :

The componen ts a re m ixed t o ge th e r i n sequence and s t i r r e d

Suggested Formul a t i ons

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 81/553

Beauty Aids

59

Facial Cleanser

Weight ,%

Mackanate LO-Speci a1 ( D i sod i um La ury l Su l fo su cc i na te ) 88.0

Macko l 16 (C e t y l A l c oh o l ) 2 . 0

B r i j 52 2 .0

M ac ks ta t DM

(DMDM

H y d a n t o i n ) q s

Water , F ragrance

qs

t o 100 .0

S o l i d s , %: 40.0

pH ( a s i s ) : 5 . 5

Appearance: P e a r ly Cream

Procedure:

1. Add Mackol 16,

B r i j

52 and wa te r t o Mackanate LO-Specia l

2 .

61 end u n t i 1 homogeneous.

3 . A d j u s t pH t o 5 . 5 t o 6 . 0 w i t h s od iu m h y d r o x i d e .

4 . Coo l t o 50 degress C . and add Mackstat DM and f r ag rance .

5 . A d j u s t s o l i d t o 40.0+-1.0 a t t h i s p o i n t .

6 . Cool and f i l l .

and hea t t o 70 degrees C .

Sting Free Facial Cleanser

Mackam 2C

Sod ium Laure th -1 Su l fa te (25%)

Mack ern i um 007

Mackanate DC-30

Mac ke st er SP

Macks ta t

DM

Water, Dye, Fragrance q . s . t o

Wei a h t .%

40 .0

15 .0

1 . 5

4 . 0

2 . 0

q . s .

100.0

Procedure:

1. Add Mackam 2C, Sodium L a u re th -1 S u l f a t e , Mack anate DC-30 and

2 .

Heat t o 70C. and b l en d u n t i l homogeneous.

3 . Cool t o 50C. and s l ow ly add Mackernium 007.

4 .

When com ple te l y d i sp ers ed , add t h e r ema in in g components .

SOURCE:

Mc In t y re Group L t d . : P e rsona l C are F o rmu la ry

Mackester

SP

t o w at e r.

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 82/553

6

Cosmetic

and

Toiletry Formulations

Fluid Make-Up

A .

M i g l y o l 8 1 2

M i g l y o l 8 4 0

I m w i t o r 960 f l a k e s

Imw i to r 900

Mar l ooho r

T 1 0

Na s a l t

P a r a f f i n o i l

B . K e l t r o l g e l I *

Water

K a r i o n F

G l y c e r o l

C . Perfume

P r e s e r v a t i v e

D . T i t a n i u m d i o x i d e

T a l c

Z i n c o x i d e

Sicomet Brown 70 C,

The i n a r e d i e n t s o f A

P r e p a r a t i o n

77491

W_m

7 . 0

5 . 0

3.0

2 . 0

2 .0

5.0

15.0

43.0

5.0

3.0

q s

q s

3.0

3.0

3.0

1 . o

a r e m e l t e d and h e a te d t o

75-8OC.

The

f i n e l y m ix ed pi gm en ts

D .

a r e homogenised t oge th e r w i t h A . The

i n g r e d i e n t s o f

B .

a r e mix ed , h e a te d t o

BOC

and s l o w l y e m u l s i f i e d

i n

A .

+ D . Per fume i s added a t a round

3 5 C .

* P re pa ra t i o n o f t h e K e l t r o l g e l : K e l t r o l F 1.0%

W ater t o 100.0%

The K e l t r o l i s mi xe d w i t h t h e w a te r u n t i l homogeneous and t h e

m ix tu re s t i r r e d u n t i l t h e ge l i s c l e a r .

Compact Make-Up

A .

M i g l y o l 8 1 2

M i g l y o l 840

I m w i t o r

900

S o f t i s a n 1 0 0

S o f t i s a n 649

Beeswax

H a r d p a r a f f

S t e a r i c a c i d

8. Sicomet Brown

70

C . I .

77491

Sicomet Brown 75

C .

I .

77491

T a l c

Z i n c o x i d e

T i t a n iu m d i o x i d e

C. Perfume

D. K a r i o n F

P r e p a r a t n :

The i n g r e d i e n t s o f A . and

0.

a r e m e l te d t o g e t h e r

added t o t h e s t i r re d-u n t i l -ho mo gen eou s phase B. The

a g a i n h e a t e d t o a pp ro x. 70C and s t i r r e d u n t i l c o l d .

and th e who le mix i s homogenised.

1 8 . 0

8 . 0

10.0

10 .0

4.0

7.0

10.0

3.0

0.5

0.5

a . o

8 . 0

8 . 0

q s

5 . 0

a n d g r a d u a l l y

mix i s t he n

C

i s added

SOURCE:

Huls Amer i ca

Inc.:

F o r m u l a t i o n s

for

Cosmet ics: Formulas

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 83/553

Beauty Aids 61

Fluid Make Up

I nQred i en tS :

A ) C u t i n a GMS

Eumulg in

E

Eutano l

G

M i g l y o l 8 1 2

Phenoni p

E) W ate r dem i ne ra l i zed

Euxyl K-200

C i t r i c a c i d

Hyasol -BT

Bentone

EW

Pigment pa s te wh i t e :

N r .

93975

P igment pa s te ye l l ow :

N r .

75577

P igment pas te red : N r . 68775

P ig me nt p a s t e b l a c k : N r . 78375

% w / w

4,OO

4 , O O

10;

0 0

6,OO

0,30

63 ,66

0,20

0 , 0 4

3,OO

0,60

5,OO

1,50

1,oo

0,40

C ) Perfume O i l : Bea uty 01239870 0,30

Procedure:

Heat t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f f a t t y phase

A )

t o 70C.

Heat t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f w at e r ph ase B) t o 75C.

Under s t i r r i n g add p ha se 8 ) t o phase A ) , coo l t o 50C,

Then add phase C ) and s t i r c o l d .

homogenize and c oo l t o 30C.

A p p l i c a t i o n

No.

x 004.A/11.92

Regenerating Lipcare-Stick

I n s r e d i e n t s :

1 Wax premix No. 1

2 Pigments

3 A r l a ce l 582

4 I m i d a z o l i d i n y l Urea

5 P h y t a l u r o n a t e

6.

C e p h a l i p i n

%

w / w

72,25

7,60

10,oo

0,15

5,OO

5,OO

Procedure:

M e l t Wax-Prem ix (1 ) a t 8QC i n t h e mai n -m i xer w h i l e m i x i ng

w i t h p a dd le s .

I n c o r p or a t e i t e m 2 and homogenize w e l l .

M e l t ap a r t i t em 3 a t 80C and s l ow l y add t h e p rehea ted (80C)

i tems 4-6.

Add

t h e o b t a i n e d e m u l s io n ( 4 -6 ) t o t h e p i gm e nt ed wax-base

w h i l e m i x i n g a t 80C.

Then p o u r i n t o t h e m ou ld s .

A p p l i c a t i o n No. X 025.0/02.93

SOURCE: Pentapharm L t d . : Suggested F o r m u la t i o n s

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 84/553

62

Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations

Gelled Aloe Vera with Sunscreen

I n g r e d i e n t s :

A . D I

w ate r

Carbopol 940

A l o e V e ra g el L i q u i d 1 : 1

B . T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e

C . D I water

P h e ny l be n z en i m id a z ol e S u l f o n i c A c i d

T r i et ha no l ami ne

D . DMDM H ydan to i n

E . Disodium

EDTA

Percen t

81 .18

0 .92

2 .3

10.0

2 . 0

t o pH 7 .0

0 . 3

0 . 1

Procedure:

Add A lo e V er ag el e x t r a c t . N e u t r a l i z e w i t h t r i e t h a n o l a m i n e .

Combine C, add t r i e t h a n o l a m i n e t o a d j u s t pH t o 7 . 0 . Add C t o

n e u t r a l i z e d A ( mo de ra te a g i t a t i o n ) . Add p r e s e r v a t i v e and

c h el a t i ng agent .

D is pe r se Ca rb op ol r e s i n i n t o w at er (u nd er h i g h a g i t a t i o n ) .

Aloe Vera Jel ly

I n a r e d i e n t s :

A .

Water

C i t r i c A c i d ( g r an u l a r )

G1 ydan t

Germal l 115

Versene-220

Propy l Gal 1 a t e

6. P r o p y l G l y c o l

Xanthan Gum

Aubygel x-125

C .

Aloe vera 200 powder

P e rcen t

91.94

0 . 2

0 . 3

0 .25

0 .05

0.05

4 .5

0 .75

1 . 5

0 .46

Procedure :

add Phase 0 t o

A .

M i x s l o w l y a nd c o o l

t o

55C. Add phase

C,

and

mix u n t i l un i fo rm . Package a t be tween 35-45C.

SOURCE: D r . M a di s L a b o r a t o r i e s I n c . : S ug ge ste d F o r m u l a t i o n s

Heat Phase A t o 80C. Pre mix Phase B w i t h good a g i t a t i o n and

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 85/553

Beauty

Aids

63

Gentle Beauty Wash

T h i s e l e g a n t b e a u ty wash i s based on m i l d s u r f a c t a n t s t h a t

r e s u l t i n a m i l d c l e a n s i n g p r o d u c t . I t s n o n - a l k a l in e pH and

c om b in a ti on o f i n g r e d i e n t s a r e d e si gn ed t o l e av e t h e s k i n c l e a n

and smooth w i th ou t harsh soap e f f e c t s .

M a t e r i a l s :

1 .

Deion ized Water

2 . P r op y le n e G l y c o l

3.

50%

Sodium Hydrox ide

4 . Bentone EW

5 . S t e a r i c Ac id , t r i p l e pressed

6 . Igepon AC78

7 . Sipon ESY

8. Siponate DDB-40

9 . Alconate SBR-3

10.Sodium Seth ionate

5 5

11 .Oxaban A

12 .F rag rance

K U

70

% b v Weiqht

46.20

8 . 0 0

0 . 6 0

0 . 4 0

8 . 0 0

11

- 0 0

11 . o o

5 . 0 0

2.50

6 . 5 0

0 . 0 5

0 . 7 5

M a n u f a c t u r i n g D i r e c t i o n s :

i d e and p ro py le ne g l y c o l w i t h r a p i d a g i t a t i o n . S t a r t h e a t in g .

D ec rease ag i t a t i o n and add t h e s t e a r i c a c i d and I gepon AC78.

C o n t i n ue h e a t i n g u n t i l t h e I g e po n AC78 h as d i s s o l v e d ( 70 d e gr ee s

C e l s i u s ) . Add t h e Si pon ESY, Si p on a te DDB-40, A lc o n a t e SBR-3

and S od i um I se th i ona te

5 5 .

S t a r t c o o l i n g . Add t h e p r e s e r v a t i v e

and f r ag ranc e a t 35C. T he v i s c o s i t y and pe a r l w i l l develop upon

s t a n d i n g .

I n g r e d i e n t L a b e l

:

W ater, Sodium c o c o y l i s e t h i o n a t e , S t e a r i c a c i d , P ro p yl en e

g l y c o l , Sodium i s e t h i o n a t e , Sodium l a u r e t h s u l f a t e , Sodium

dodecy l benzene su l f on a t e , D i sod ium r i c i no l e m i do , ME A-su lf o -

succ i n a te , F ragrance , H e c t o r i t e , Sodium hyd ro x i de , 4 ,4 -D i m e thy l -

o x a z o l i d i n e , 3,4,4-Trimethyloxazolidine.

P h y s i c a l P r o p e r t i e s :

D i spe rse t he B en tone

EW

i n t h e d e i o n i z e d w a t e r , sodium h y d r ox -

pH: 5 .8-6 .1

V i s c o s i t y : B r o o k f i e l d LV4 @ 2 5 degrees C ( a t r e s t 12 h o u r s ) :

@ 3

RPMs

80,000-110,000

CP

@ 6 RPMs 50 ,000 - 70,000

CP

@ 12 RPMs 30,000->50,000 C P

Appearance: Whi te , pe ar le d, pumpable cream

SOURCE: Rheox, I n c . : Rhone Pou lenc P ro to ty pe For mu l a t i o n 9 1 - 0 4 0 1

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 86/553

6

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Hair and Skin Moisturizing Mist

A r e f r e s h i ng s p ra y c o n t a i n i n g s p e c i a1 h um ec ta nt s t o r e p l e n i s h

much needed mo i s tu re t o h a i r and sk i n . C on ta i ns Sodium PCA

t o h e l p r e s t o r e n orm al m o i s t u r e b a l an c e and keep t h e s k i n

y ou ng l o o k i n g and f r e s h . A l s o c o n t a i n s A l o e V er a G el and

P an th en ol t o so ot he , c o n d i t i o n a nd p r o t e c t t h e s k i n and h a i r

f r o m d r y i n g o u t . Recommended f o r u se u n de r d r y c l i m a t i c c on d-

i t i o n s , d r y h e a t o r d u r i n g sun ex po su re .

Innred ient /T rade Name:

P a r t A :

Dei o n i zed Water

Po ly qu at er n i um-4/Celquat H-100

C i t r i c A c i d

Pr op y le ne G1 yc o l

Methy lparaben

91 . I 3

0 . 0 5

0.01

2 . 0 0

0 . 2 0

P a r t B:

Sod i um PCA/Aj ew N-50 2 .00

S o r b i t o l

&

Sod ium Lac ta te

&

P r o l i n e

&

Sodium PCA &

Hydro1yz ed Col 1 agen/Prodew 100

2 .00

Pantheno l

0 . 1 0

Alo e Vera Gel /Aquasol 104

1 . o o

Dimeth i cone Copo lyo l /Dow Corn ing 193 0 . 3 0

D i

azo1 i n y l Urea/Germal 1

I

0 . 2 0

P a r t C :

Tea-Cocoyl Glutamate/Amisof t CT-12

Polysorbate 20/Tween 2 0

Fragrance #X3110

0

I

5 0

0 . 5 0

0.01

Procedure :

D i

s pe rs e C e lq u a t H100 n t o r a p i d l y a g i a t i ng de i o n i zed w a te r .

Heat t o 70 deg rees C en t i g rade . Add rema i n i ng P a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s .

M i x u n t i l c o m pl e te l y c l e a r and u n i f o rm . S t a r t c o o l i n g . A t

5 0

deg rees C en t i g rade , add P a r t

B

i n g r e d i e n t s . M i x w e l l a f t e r each

a d d i t i o n . P re mi x P a r t C . A t 40 degrees Ce nt ig rad e add p remixed

P a r t C t o P a r t

A .

C o n t i nu e m i x i n g a nd c o o l i n g t o 35 d eg re es

C e n t i g r a d e .

Appearance: C l e ar , l i g h t y e l l o w , w a t e r - t h i n l i q u i d

pH: 5 .00-5.40

SOURCE: A j i n o m o to USA, I n c . : S ugges ted F o rmu l a t i on

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 87/553

Beauty Aids 65

Hair and Skin Moisturizing Spray

A r e f r e s h i n g s pr ay c o n t a i n i ng spec i a1 h um ec ta nts t o r e p l e n i s h

much needed mo is tu re t o h a i r and s k i n . Con ta ins Sodium PCA t o

h e l p r e s t o r e n o rm al m o i s t u r e b al a n c e and keep t h e s k i n young

and f r e sh , A l so c on ta i n s A l oe V e ra Gel t o soo the d ryness , and

e m o l l i e n t s t o c o n d i t i o n and p r o t e c t t h e s k i n and h a i r f rom

d r y i n g o u t . Recommended f o r u se u nd er d r y c l i m a t i c c o n d i t i o n s ,

d r y h e a t o r d u r i n g s un e xp o su re .

In s r ed i en t /T r ade Name:

P a r t A :

Deion ized Water

Sodi um PCA/Aj ew N-50

A l o e V era Gel D e c o l o r i z e d l x

D i me th i cone C opo lyo l/D ow C orn i ng 193 S u r f ac ta n t

D i azo1 i n y l Urea/Germal

1 I

I

P a r t :

P ropy l ene G l yco l

Methy lparaben

P a r t C :

TEA-Cocoyl Glutamate/Amisof t C T - I 2

Procedure:

M ix p a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s u n t i l e v e r y t h i n g s comp

o l v e d . H eat p a r t

0

t o 50 degrees Cent ig rade and m i

Add par t C . Mix w e l l .

Appearance:

C le ar , c o l o r l e s s , w a t e r - t h i n l i q u i d .

pH:

5 . 3 0 - 5 . 6 0

Ha ir Liquid So ft Type )

%

by Weiaht

8 8 .9 5

3 .00

5 . 0 0

0 .30

0 . 1 0

e t e

un

0 )

Pyro te r GPI -25

2-Hexy ldecy l A l coho l

E t h y l A l c o h o l

Methy lparaben

Perfume

( W )

A j i d e w

T - 5 0

Water

Procedure:

1 . D i s s o l v e ( 0 ) and

( W )

s e p a r a t e l y a t room te m p e r a t u re

2. Add

( W )

t o 0)w i t h s t i r r i n g .

c l e a r s o l u t i ons .

pH:

7 . 0

V i s c o s i t y :

6

cps

SOURCE: A j i nomo to U S A , I n c . : S ug ge st ed F o r m u l a t i o n s

2 . 0 0

0 . 1 5

0 5 0

y d i s s -

l c l e a r

Wt%

9 . 0

1

. o

4 0 . 0

0 . 1

q . s .

4.0

4 5 . 9

t o be

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 88/553

66

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

High Shine Lipstick

H i g h g l o s s ,

f i r m

l i p s t i c k w i t h good m o i s t u r i z i n g q u a l i t i e s .

L i q u e f i e s i n s t a n t l y t o an o i l , s l i p p e r y f i l m w h i l e d e p o s i t i n g

v e r y l i t t l e sh ee r c o l o r and h i g h pe ar le sc en ce .

C as to r O i l

Candel 1a Wax

A c e t u l a n

Ross Wax 1275W

P r o p y le n e G l y c o l M o n o l a u ra t e

Lanogene

Carnauba Wax

P ropy l pa raben

Timiron MP-10

D

&

C

Red #9 (31 -30 09)

D &

C

Red #7 Ca Lake (3107)

Pu r. Navy Blu e #7110

F rag rance

%

5 9 . 4

8 .0

7 .5

5 . 0

5 .0

5 .0

2 . 0

0 .1

7 .0

0 . 6

0 . 3

0 .1

q . s

Procedures :

G r i n d t h e p ig me nts i n p a r t o f t h e C as to r O i l u s i n g e i t h e r a

3 - r o l l

m i l l

o r m o r t a r / p e s t l e . Add a l l o t h e r i n g r e d i e n t s ( e xc ep t

f o r p e a r l e s c e n t p ig m en t and f r a g r a n c e and h e a t g e n t l y o n steam

ba th t o 80-85C. Add pe ar l , m ix u n t i l homogeneous. F ragrance

s h o u l d be added a t l o w e s t p o s s i b l e t e m p e r at u r e . C as t i n t o m ol ds .

Lipst ick Formulat ion

Ross

S y n t h e t i c C a n d e l i l l a Wax

I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e

L a n o l i n N .F .

Ross White Beeswax N.F.

Ross Re f i n ed P a r a f f i n Wax 130/35

Ross W h it e O z o k e r i t e Wax 77W

C a s t o r O i l

Pigment

Teg . "P"

%

10.9

9 . 5

4 .4

3 .3

2 .0

0 . 9

54 .3

1 2 . 0

0 . 1

*Formu1 a t i on deve loped by P r e c is io n Cosmetic o f Mount Vernon,

N Y , i n c o n j u nc t io n w i t h t h e Frank

0 .

Ross Company.

SOURCE: F rank B .

Ro ss

Co., I n c . : S ug ge st ed F o r m u l a t i o n s

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 89/553

Beauty Aids 67

Lip

Balm White

Rosswax 2639

M i n e r a l

O i l

7

Solar Chem 0

Fragrance GP-58

%

8 5 . 0

13 .5

1 . 5

q . s .

Procedure:

M e l t a l l i n g r e d i e n t s t o 19OF i n a s t a i n l e s s s t e e l v es se l .

M i x t h o r o u g h l y w i t h a g i t a t i o n , c o o l t o 165F, f r a g r a n c e and p o ur

i n t o a co n t a i n e r . N o te : C appi ng may be necessa ry.

Lip

Balm

I

Cas to r O i l C r y s t a l 0

Emery IPP

Emery 1723

Rosswax 2640

Ac et u 1an

SDA Alcohol #40

Solar Chem 0

P ropy l ene G l yco l

Fragrance GP-58

%

46.0

17 .0

1 0 . 4

19.6

2 . 5

2 . 0

1 . 5

1 . o

q . s a

Procedure:

M e l t a1 1 i n g r e d i e n t s t o 19OF i n a s t a i n l e s s s t e e l v e s s e l .

M i x t h o r o u g h l y w i t h a g i t a t i o n . Co ol t o 165F, f r ag r a nc e and p o ur

i n t o a co n t a i ne r . No te : Capp ing may be necessary .

Lip Balm I I

Ross Base

O i l

2539

Emery 1723

Rosswax 2641

SDA A l coho l #40

Solar Chem 0

P ropy l ene G l yco l

Fragrance GP-58

%

55.4

10 .8

29 .3

2 .0

1 . 5

1 . o

q . s .

Procedure :

M e l t a l l i n g r e d i e n t s t o 19OF i n a s t a i n l e s s s t e e l v es se l . M ix

t ho ro u gh ly w i t h a g i t a t i o n ,

cool

t o 165F, f r a g r a n c e an d p o ur i n t o

a co nt a i ne r . Note: Capping may be necessary .

SOURCE:

Frank

8 .

R o s s C o . ,

I n c . : S ug ge st ed F o r m u l a t i o n s

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 90/553

68

Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations

Lip G loss Sou ffle)

Ma te r i a1s: %

by

Wei u h t

1. Beeswax 7 . 0

2 . Cer aph yl 140A 12. 7

3. P ropy l pa raben 0 .1

4. Tenox 4 0 . 1

5. Bentone Gel LOX r h e o l o g i c a l a d d i t i v e 7 0.0

6. Time ron Pe ar l Sheen MP-30 5. 0

7 . P i gment Conce nt ra te ** 0 . 4

8 .

Perfume

0 . 2

Cas to r O i l 60 .0

C o l o r No. 3106

D&C

Red No. 6 40.0

**P igment Concent ra te

1 . Weigh i t e m 1 t h r o u g h 4 i n t o a s t a i n l e s s s t e e l steam j a c k e t e d

k e t t l e . Heat t o 85C u n t i l m e lte d c l e a r .

2 . B r i n g t empera tu re down t o 78C. Add and mi x i n i t em 5 us i ng

a homomixer a t medium speed. Mix f o r ano the r t e n minut es .

3 .

A l l i t e m 6 and m ix f o r f i v e m in ut es o r u n t i l d i s pe rs ed ;

t h e n a dd i t e m 7 and m ix f o r a n o th e r f i v e m i n ut e s.

4 . Con t in ue m ix in g a t medium speed and lower temp era tu re t o 60C.

Add i tem 8 . Remove h e a t and s t i r s l o w l y u n t i l c on ge al ed o r

p ou r i n t o c o n t a i n e r .

P i gment C oncent r a t e P r ep a r a t i on :

1 . W eigh d r y p owder i n t o c a s t o r o i 1 us in g a s low speed Hobar t

t y p e m ix er u n t i l u n i fo r m .

2 .

G iv e t h i s c o n ce n t ra t e tw o t o t h r e e p asses ov er a t h r e e r o l l

m i l l a t room tempera tu re .

Roll-On Lip Gloss

M a t e r i a1s

%

by Wei a h t

1 . S u cr os e A c e t a t e I s o b u t y r a t e

30.0

2 . I so p ro py l a n 33 44 .5

3 . P ropy lparaben

0 . 1

4. Tenox 4

0 . 1

5 . B en tone Gel LO1 rh eo l og i ca l a d d i t i v e 22 .5

6 . P ig me nt c o n c e n t r a t e * 0 . 2

7 . P ea r l W h i t e 2 .5

8 . Per fume 0 .1

*P igment Concent ra te

C as to r

O i l

60.00

C o l o r

No.

3106 D&C Red No. 6 40.00

1 .

Weigh i t e m s 1 t h r o u g h 7 i n t o a s t a i n l e s s s tea m j a c k e t e d

k e t t l e . Heat t o 80C u n t i l m el te d c l e a r .

2 . B r i n g t empera tu re down t o 75C; add and m i x i n i t e m 5 us i ng

homomixer a t medium speed. Mi x f o r 10 mi nu te s a t 75C.

3. Add i tem 6 and m i x f o r 5 m i nu te s o r u n t i l d i sp e r se d ; t h e n

add i t e m 7 and m i x f o r ano the r 5 m i nu tes .

4 . Con t in ue m ix in g a t medium speed and lo wer tempe ra tu re t o 60C.

Add i t e m 8. Remove h ea t and a l l o w mass t o come t o room temp.

P i gmen t C oncen t ra te P repa ra t i on :

1 . Weigh d r y powder i n t o t h e ca s to r o i 1 us i ng a s l ow speed

2 , G i v e t h i s c o n c e n t r a t e t wo p as se s o v e r a

3

r o l l m i l l a t

SOURCE: Rheox. I n c , : Fo rm ul as TS-135 & T S - 1 8 4

H ob ar t t y p e mi xe r u n t i l u n i f o r m .

room temperature .

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 91/553

Beauty

Aids 69

T h is p r od u ct u t i 1

B e l l i n a t o prod uc e a

s i l k y l a s t i n g c o l o ur

Phase

A:

Cas to r O i l (Caschem)

Candel 1a Wax (K os t

Carnauba Wax ( K os te r

Lip Pencil

zes t h e d i s p e r s i v e p r o p e r t i e s o f Cera

p r od u c t w h ic h g l i d e s on e a s i l y , l e av e s

t h a t i s w a te r r e s i s t a n t .

r Keunen)

51.5%

8.0%

Keunen) 7.0%

M i c r o c r y s t a l l i n e Wax (Kos te r Keunen) 5 .0%

Ce re sin e 130/135 Wax (K os te r Keunen) 3. 0%

M i n e r a l O i l (W i t co ) 3 .0%

Ce ty l A lco hol (P&G) 1 . 5 %

P h a s e B :

Cera B e l l i n a (Pg-3 Beeswax, K os te r Keunen)

8 .0%

I r o n Ox ide Brown (Warner -Jenk inson) 2 .O%

T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e ( W h i t t a k e r

C&D)

8 .0%

D&C Red 6 ( W h i t t a k e r C&D) 3 .0%

Heat and mix Phase B, d i s p e r s i n g p ig m e nt s and b r e a k i n g u p

v i s i b l e agg l omera t i on . Add Phase A t o Phase 8 , heat and mix

t o g e t he r u nd er a g i t a t i o n . A l l ow t o co o l t o 65C and p ou r i n t o

mo l ds . C hang ing t h e con ce n t ra t i o n o f waxes and

or

o i l s w i l l

so f t e n and ha rden t h e p rod uc t t o ma i n t a i n c ons i s t e ncy when chang -

i n g p ig m en ts and c o l o u r s . D i f f e r e n t pi gm e nt s w i l l a f f e c t t h e

g e l l i n g p r o p e r t i e s o f t h e b ase and i s compensated f o r w i t h

ch an ge s i n c o n c e n t r a t i o n s o f waxes a nd o i l s u se d, S un sc re en s

can a l s o be i n c o r po r a t e d w i t h o u t d i f f i c u l t f o r m u la changes.

New Look Lipstick

T h i s r e d l i p s t i c k has a creamy t e x t u r e and i s l o n g w ea ri ng .

The l i p s t i c k i s v e r y s ta b le , a l t ho u gh i t has a h i g h o i l con-

c e n t r a t i o n . By u s i n g s y n t h e t i c r ep la ce m en ts o f n a t u r a l p ro d u c t s

t h i s f or mu la i s o f v e ry lo w c o s t b u t l o o k s and p er fo rm s l i k e a

h i g h end p r o d u c t .

1. NF Yel low Beeswax (Koster Keunen) 5 . 0 %

2 . S y n t h e t i c C a n d e l i l l a ( K o s t er K eunen)

9.9%

3. Oz ok er i t e 170 (Ko st er Keunen)

10.6%

4 .

Sy nt he t i c Carnauba (Koste r Keunen)

1 . 5

5 . Cas to r O i l (Caschem) 2 0

* 0%

6. P a r a f f i n O i l (Kydol -Wi tco) 15.3%

7 .

E d i b l e C oconut

O i l

(Cocochem) 32.7%

8 .

D&C

Red

30

(Warner-Jenk inson)

4.5

9 . T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e ( W h i t t a k e r C

8

D ) 0.5%

Add

1 , 5 ,

8 and 9 i n t o a v e ss e l l a r g e enough t h a t

w i l l

a l l o w

t h e o t h e r components t o b e added a f t e r t h e beeswax, c a s t o r o i l

and p igments have been me l te d (75C.) and mixed tog e t he r w i t h t h e

i n t e n t i o n o f b r e a k i n g down as many o f t h e v i s i b l e a g g l om e r at i on s .

A f t e r t h e v i s i b l e a g g l o m e r at i o n s hav e b ee n s e p ar a te d , add 2, 3

and 4 t o t h e d i s p e r s i o n w h i l e m i x i n g . I n c r e as e t h e te m pe ra tu r e

s l i g h t l y i f needed t o m e l t t h e s y n t h e t i c c ar n au b a. Then t h e

remainder

of

t h e components can be added and mixed a t a temp-

e r a t u re o f

70C.

A f t e r t h e p rod uc t i s homogeneous use a shea r

m i x e r a t l o w s p e e d f o r

4 5

t o

60

m in ut es , m a i n t a i n i n g a s i m i l a r

t empera tu re .

a pp ea ra nc e o r p e r fo r m an c e . S un sc re en s a r e e a s i l y i n c o r p o r a t e d .

SOURCE: Ko ste r Keunen, I n c . : Suggested

F o r m u l a t i o n s

S l i g h t changes i n o i l s and waxes

w i l l

n o t a l t e r t h e p ro d uc ts

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 92/553

7

Cosmetic and Toilehy Formulations

Lipstick

D er ma cr yl LT p r o v i d e s i n c r ea s e d m o i s t u r e p r o t e c t i o n , r u b - o f f

r e s i s t a n c e and w a te r r e s i s t a n c e .

I n q r e d i e n t s :

m

Phase

A :

Eutanol G 6.00

P r i s o r i ne 351 5 20.00

Ceraphyl I C A 2 . 7 0

Cera1an 5.00

Derm acryl LT 2. 00

Phase B :

F l u i a n 10 .0 0

Candel 1 a Wax 12.0 0

O zo ke r i te Wax 5. 00

Cu t i n a LM 10 .00

Drake ol 35 5.00

Tenox BHA 0 .10

P ropy l pa raben 0 . 2 0

Phase C :

DC

Red

#6

( D is p er s io n i n C a st or O i l ) 15.00

F1 amenco Su pe rp ea rl 5.0 0

Phase D:

V i t a m i n E A c e t a t e 1 .oo

V i t a m i n E P a l m i t a t e

1

. o o

Procedure:

a g i t a t i o n , s l ow l y s i f t i n Dermacry l LT, m ix u n t i l c o m pl et e.

Combine Phase

B,

he at t o 80C. Add Phase

B

t o Phase A a t 8OC,

mix th or ou gh ly . Phase C: M i x p ig m en ts t o g e t h e r , add t o A and B

a t 80C. Cool t o 80C.

Add

Phase D , m ix t h o r o u g h l y . Pour i n t o

mo lds and co o l t o room temp era tu r e .

SOURCE:

Na t io na l S t a r ch and Chemica l

Co. :

Formula

7661-1448

Combine Phase A , except Dermacry l LT . Heat t o

80C.

With good

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 93/553

Beauty Aids 71

Lipstick

A . S o f t i san 645

Dyn ace ri n 660

S o f t i s a n 1 0 0

Mi g l yo l 812

Beeswax

E u tano l G

Pr os o l a l S9

PCL l i q u i d

P r o t e g i n X

6 .

Carnauba wax

C a sto r o i l

H e x y l e n e g l y c o l

S t e a r i c a c i d

T i m i

r on S ta r l us t re MP -115

Perfume o i l T end resse

D . C o l o u r s :

Pink: S icornet Rot P 15630 CA

Red: Sico me t Ro t P 15630 CA

V i o l e t : Sicornet V i o l e t t

P

77007

G

Wt%

1 0 . 0

8 . 0

7 . 0

7 . 0

11.0

9 . 0

5.0

5 . 0

4 . 0

9 . 0

6 . 0

3 . 0

2.0

1 0 . 0

1 . o

qs

0 . 5

3 . 0

0 . 5

P r e p a r a t i o n :

A l l i n g re d i en ts a r e hea ted t o 75C and homogen ised w i t h a

h i g h speed s t i r r e r . The

m x

i s p ou re d i n t o m oulds b e f o r e

i t

has

g o t c o l d .

Lip-Gloss

A . S o f t i s a n 6 4 5

S o f t i s a n 6 4 9

Rewopal

P I B

1000

L a nf r a x

Candel 1a wax

B . P e a r l l u s t r e p ig me nt *

C o l ou r

Perfume

Wt%

44.5

10.0

3 0 . 0

1 0 . 0

2 . 5

3 . 0

qs

q s

* T i mi ro n S t a r l u s t r e

M P

115

P r e p a r a t i o n

i n g r e d i e n t s o f

B.

a re m i xed t o ge the r and added t o A . F i n a l l y , t h e

m i x i s homogen ised .

SOURCE:

H u l s A me ric a I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n s

f o r

Cosmet ics : Formulas

A .

i s m e lt ed a t 60C and s t i r r e d u n t i l c o ol ed down t o

4 0 C .

The

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 94/553

72 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Lipstick

M i g l y o l G e l

0

M i g l y o l 8 1 2

M i g l y o l 8 4 0

S o f t i g e n 701

P a r a f f i n o i l

I s o p r o p y l m y r i s t a t e

C as to r o i l

Eu tano l

H D

Carnauba wax

Wool wax alcohol

Beeswax

I m w i t o r 9 0 0

Oxynex 2004

Perfum e o i l

GC

10776

T a l c

T i a n i um d i o x i d e

Z i n c o x i d e

T i m i r o n S t a r l u s t r e MP-115

Flame Orange 5305 No. 5 C.11994

L o M ic ro n Tan 3088

C .

11997

w t %

10.0

7 . 0

5 . 0

7 . 0

7.0

5 . 0

9 . 0

5 . 0

8 . 0

5 . 0

10.0

4.0

0 . 2 0

0 . 2 8

3 . 0

3 . 0

3 . 0

5 . 0

1 . 7

3.0

P r e p a r a t i o n :

A. i s m ix ed ,

E .

i s added and hea ted t o 75-8OC.

D

i s f i n e l y

g r o u n d w i t h

A ,

t h e b e i ng s t i r r e d i n t o

0 .

i n sm al l p o r t i o n s .

Pe rfu me i s a dded t o t h e m i x a nd a t 60C. i t i s p oured i n t o t h e

m ou ld, w hi ch i s n o t c o o l e d . The m ix i s s e t b y s t o r i n g t h e m ou ld

one hour

i n

a r e f r i g e r a t o r .

Lipstick

Glossy

W B

A . M i g l y o l G e l 8 20.0

S o f t i s a n 6 45 1 5 .0

I m w i t o r

780K

6 . 0

M i g l y o l 8 2 9 6 . 0

L a n f r a x 1 0 . 0

Beeswax

5 . 0

Candel 1a wax

5 . 0

C as to r o i l 4 . 5

Sodi um s t e a r a t e 1

. o

0 .

Rewopal PI0

1000

15.0

A n t i o x i d a n t s qs

C . Perfume

q s

D . S i c o m e t E r y t h r o s i n l a c k E 127 0 .5

T i m i r o n S t a r l u s t r e MP-115 1 0 . 0

P r e p a r a t i o n

:

A. and B. a r e m i xed t o ge th e r and hea ted t o app rox . 8 0 C .

0.

i s

added and t h e m i x i s h om og en ise d. Pe rfu me i s i n c o r p o r a t e d a t

approx. 30C.

SOURCE: Huls Amer ica In c . : Fo rm ula t io ns f o r Cosmet ics : F ormulas

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 95/553

Beauty Aids 73

Lipstick

T h i s r e d l i p s t i c k has a creamy t e x t u r e and i s l o n g w ea r i ng .

The l i p s t i c k i s v e r y s t a b l e , a l t ho u gh i t has a h i g h o i l con-

c e n t r a t i o n . Cera B e l l i n a a l lo w s f o r h i g h c o l o r a t i o n w i t h o u t

l a r g e pigm ent l o a d and im p ar ts a s a t i n l i k e f e e l t o t h e l i p s .

Formu 1a :

1 . Cera B e l l i n a (Pg-3 Beeswax, Kos ter Keunen)

2 . C a n d e l i l l a (K os te r Keunen)

3. O zo ke r i te 160/164 (K ost er Keunen)

4 .

Carnauba #1 Ye l lo w (K o st e r Keunen)

5 . Cas to r O i l (Caschem)

6 .

P a r a f f i n

O i l

(Kydo l -Wi tco )

7 .

O c t y l P a l m i t a te ( I n o l e x )

8 .

Jo j oba

O i l

(Jo joba Growers )

9 .

V i t a m i n

E

(Freeman)

l O . D & C Red # 7 (Warner-Jenk inson)

1l .O ra ng e Wax ( K o s t e r Keunen)

1 2 . T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e ( W h i t t a k e r

C D )

13.Propy l Paraben (S u t to n)

16.70%

3.10%

4.20%

1.20%

43.45%

16.30%

6.20%

1

.OO%

0.50%

4.00%

3.00%

0.25%

0.10%

Procedure:

Add 1, 10, 11, and 12 i n t o a vesse l l a r g e enough t h a t

w i l l

a l l o w t h e o t h e r components t o b e added a f t e r t h e Cera B e l l i n a

(Pg-3 Beeswax), Orange Wax and pi gm en ts have been m e lt e d (75C)

and m ix e d t o g e t h e r w i t h t h e i n t e n t i o n o f b r e a k i n g down as many

o f t h e v i s i b l e a gg lo me ra tio ns . A f t e r t h e v i s i b l e a gg lo me ra tio ns

h av e b ee n s e p a r a te d ad d 2 , 3 an d 4 t o t h e d i s p e r s i o n w h i l e

m i x i n g. I n cr e a se t h e t em pe ra tu re s l i g h t l y i f needed t o m e l t t h e

carnauba . Then t h e rema inder

o f

t h e components can be added and

mixed a t a t empera tu re o f 70C. A f t e r t h e p rod uc t i s homogeneous,

u s e a s he a r m i x e r a t l o w sp eed f o r 45 t o 60 m i n u t e s , m a i n t a i n i n g

a s i m i l a r t e m p e r a t u r e .

A d a p t a t i o n

o f

f o rm u la and i t s i n f l u e n c e on t h e p r od u c t:

O the r o i l s n a t u r a l o r s y n t h e t i c can e a s i l y be s u b s t i t u t e d

t o meet t h e f o r m u la t o r s needs, c o s t , a v a i l a b i l i t y , e t c . w i t h o u t

s i g n i f i c a n t l y c ha ng in g t h e c h a r a c t e r i s t i c s . H ig he r me1 t i n g p o i n t s

can e a s i l y b e ac hie ve d w i t h o n l y s l i g h t a l t e r a t i o n s i n wax

c o n c e n t r a t i o n . B i o l o g i c a l l y a c t i v e compounds a r e e a s l i y i n c o r p -

o r a t e d i n t o t h e f o rm u l as . De pe nd in g on t h e d e s i r e d c o l o r and

t h e b l e n d o f p i g me n ts used, t h e r e w i l l be a need f o r sma l l

i n g r e d i e n t c o n c e n t r a t i o n changes i n t h e f or m ul a d ue t o t h e

p ig m en t ' s e f f e c t on t h e g e l l i n g p r o p e r t i e s o f t h e m i x t u re .

SOURCE: Kos te r Keunen, I n c . : Suggested Form u la t i on s

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 96/553

74 Cosmetic and

Toiletry

FormuZutions

L ip s t i c k

A . Carnauba Wax

Candel 1a Wax

Beeswax

Hydrogenated Cas to r O i l

L i q u i d L a n ol i n

M ic r o c r y s t a l 1 e Wax

2-Oc ty ldodecano l

2 - O ct y ld o d ec y l M y r i s t a t e

C as to r O i l

8. Pear l P igment

T i a n i um D i ox id e

Amihope LL

Red Oxide

o f

I r o n

Organ i c P i gment (Red)

Procedure:

1 . M i x

( A )

and ( e ) , a n d d i s s o l v e a t 8 0 C .

2 . Knead them w i t h a r o l l .

3 . D i ss o l v e a t 80C.

4. Remove sma l l bub ble s i n a vacuum, and the n p re ss .

N o te : T h i s l i p s t i c k h as smooth to u c h, and sp re ad s w e l l

2 . 0

6 .5

5 . 5

2 . 0

16.8

3 .0

15 .0

10 .0

23.2

4 :5

4 .5

3 . 5

1 . 3

2 . 2

Lipst ick Formulae

T h e a d d i t i o n o f Eldew CL-301 r e s u l t s i n a p r e p a r a t i o n w i t h

r em ar ka bl e s p r e a d a b i l i t y , im pro ve d l u s t e r and e x c e l l e n t c o l o r

w i t h o u t r e d u c in g t h e s t r e n g t h .

A C as to r O i l

Candel 1a

Carnauba

O z o k e r i t e

C ap ry l i c / c a p r i c t r i g l y c e r i d e

Eldew CL-301

B Mi ca

Ye1 low on ox id e

D&C Red

#7

Amihope LL

SOURCE: Ajinomoto

USA,

I n c . : S uggested F o rmu l a t i ons

55 .0

4 .8

2 .0

4.0

15.0

5 .0

7 . 4

2 . 2

3.0

1 . 6

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 97/553

BeautyAids 75

Liquid Foundation

P a r t A :

H y d r o x y p r o p y l M e t h y l C e l l u l o s e

M ag na br i t e

Water

T a l c

P a r t :

C etea re th 15

Pro pyle ne G1 yc o l

G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e

I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e

C e t y l A l c o h o l

I s o s t e a r i c A c i d

C a r n a t i o n

M i

n e r a l

O i

1

P a r t C :

T i a n i um D i ox i de

I r o n O xi de s

P a r t D :

Germaben I 1

Weight%

0 . 4

0 . 4

56.26

3 . 0 0

5 . 0 0

5 . 0 0

3 . 0 0

5 . 0 0

4 . 0 0

4 . 0 0

6 . 0 0

6 .00

0 . 9 4

1 . o o

Procedure :

and s i f t i n t o v o r t e x o f w a t er w i t h maximum s h e a r . When d i s p e r s e d ,

add t a l c . Heat t o 80C. Add o i l p hase, s t i r u n t i l u n i f or m . Add

t i t a n i u m d i o x i d e and i r o n ox i de s .

M i l l

t o d i s p e r s e p ig me nt s.

Add D . Cool w i t h m i x i n g t o 32C.

B l en d t o g e t h e r M a g n ab r it e an d h y d r o x y p r o p y l m e t h yl c e l l u l o s e

Powder Foundation

T a l c

T i t a n iu m d i o x i d e

S e r i c i t e

S p he r ic a l s i 1 c a

P o l y t e t r a f l u o r o e t h y l e n e powder

Red i r o n o x i d e

Y el lo w i r o n o x i d e

B1 ack o n o x i d e

D i m e t h y l p o l y s i l o xa n e

C a r n a t i o n M i n e r a l O i 1

S o r b i t a n s e s q u io l e a te

P r e s e r v a t i v e

F ragrance

1 7 . 0 %

1 0 . 0

40.0

1 0 . 0

1 0 . 0

0 . 5

1 . 0

0 . 1

1

. o

9 . 0

1

. o

0 . 3

0 . 1

SOURCE:

W i tco C o rp . : P e t ro leum S p e c i a l t i e s G roup : S ugges ted

F o r m u l a t i o n s

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 98/553

76 Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations

Liquid Make-Up

T h is f o r m ul a d em ons t ra tes t h e s t a b i l i t y , d i s p e r s i v e q u a l i t i e s

and r h e o l o g i c a l p r o p e r t i e s o f Cera B e l l i n a i n a h i g h pigm en t

l oa d , v e g e t a b le o i l and h yd ro ca rb on o i l f r e e p r o d u c t . The

p rod uc t i s qu i c k d r y i n g on t h e s k i n l e a v i n g a s o f t v e l v e t l i k e

f e e l , f o r a f l a w le s s , l o n g w ea ri ng n a t u r a l l o o k .

O i l Phase:

I sop ropy l P a l m i t a te (U n i chema)

Cera B e l l i n a (Pg-3 Beeswax, Kos ter Keunen)

S i l i c o n e O i 1 556 (Dow)

Ce re si ne Wax 130/135 (K os te r Keunen)

G l y c e r o l M o n o s t e a r a t e ( W i t c o )

Em ul s i fy in g Wax NF (Koster Keunen)

PEG-1 00 S t ea r a t e ( L i po)

Orange Wax ( K o s t e r Keunen)

P ropy l P araben (S u t t on )

Water Phase:

Water ( Di s t i 1 e d )

Sodium H y d ro x i d e ( A l d r i c h )

C i t r i c Ac id ( A l d r i c h )

Bermocal l E230 (Whi t taker C&D)

Methy l Paraben (Su t ton)

Pigment Phase:

T i t an i um D i ox i de ( W h i t t a ke r C&D)

I r o n Ox ide Ye l l ow 7055 (Warner -Jenk inson)

I r o n Ox ide Brown 7058 (Warner-Jenk inson)

Mica (Rona)

I r o n Ox ide Red 7067 (Warne r-Jenk inson)

14.50%

6.00%

4 . 5 0 %

1.50%

0.80%

0.70%

0.50%

0.30%

0

*

20%

51 - 0 5 %

0 60%

0 . 5 0 %

0.20%

0.20%

13.50%

2.70%

1.20%

1.00%

0 . 5 0 %

Procedure :

Me l t o i l phase t o a maximum o f 75C and m i x , mak ing su r e a l l

i n g r e d i e n t s a r e m e lt e d. I n a s e p a r a t e v e s se l d i s s o l v e t h e comp-

o n en ts o f t h e wa te r p ha se . Add t h e o i l ph as e t o t h e w a t er phase,

m a i n t a i n i n g t h e t em p e ra t ur e o f 75C f o r a p p ro x im a t el y 15 m i n u t e s .

A l l o w t o c o o l s l o w l y . When t h e t em p e r a t u re i s 55 t o 60C, a dd t h e

p igment phase under h ig h shear .

A da p ta t i on o f f o r m ul a and i t s i n f l u e n c e on t h e p r o du c t :

C ha ngin g t h e c o n c e n t r a t i o n s o f w a t e r ( i n c r e a s e ) and s o l i d s

(decre ase) by sma l l amounts w i l l c o n t r o l t h e v i s c o s i t y . A v a r i e t y

o f p ig m en ts can b e s u b s t i t u t e d t o s u i t p r o d u c t s n eeds.

SOURCE: Kos te r Keunen, I n c . : Suggested Fo rm u la t i o n

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 99/553

Beauty Aids 77

Liquid Makeup

M a t e r i a l s :

1 . Ta lc 1623

2 . 328 T i ta n i um Di ox id e CTFA

% bv Wei q h t

5 . 0 0

5 . 0 0

3 . C o l o r

No.

3170 Pur Oxy Yel low B.C.

0 . 4 0

4 .

C o l o r No. 3315 Pur Oxy Umber B . C . 0 . 2 0

5 . C o l o r No. 2511 Lo-Micron P ink

B . C .

0 4 0

6. Water (d e io n iz ed ) 79 .95

7 . Me thy l paraben 0 .25

8 . P r o py l en e G l y c o l 5 . 0 0

9 . C e rasyn t

840

2.00

1 0. Be nt on e LT r h e o l o g i c a l a d d i t i v e 1 . 5 0

11.Per fume

0 . 3 0

M a n u f a c t u r i n g D i r e c t i o n s :

1 . P a r t 1 - I n a powder b l end e r , add i t ems 1 t h r o u g h 5 and mix

t o g e t h e r f o r 20 mi nu te s. Remove powder f ro m bl en de r and p u t

t h r o u g h a m i c r o p u l v e r i z e r .

hea t t o 65C. Us in g a homomixer a t medium speed, add and mi x

i n i t e m 1 0. C o nt in u e m i x i n g f o r 20 t o 30 min ut es u n t i l

c o m p l e t e l y d i spersed .

2 . P a r t 2-Add i t e m s 6 t h r o u g h 9 t o a s t a i n l e s s s t e e l v e s s e l a nd

3 . C oo l P a r t 2 t o 4 0 C and add and mix i n ern 11.

4 .

W i t h con t i n uous m i x i n g a t medium speed, add P a r t 1 t o P a r t 2

and m ix t o g e t h e r f o r 15 m i n u t e s.

5 . Put e n t i r e m i x t u re th ro ug h a c o l l o i d

m i l l

f o r u n i f o r m p ig me nt

g r i n d i n g .

Formula TS-116

Silky Facial Mask

M a t e r i a l s : % bv Weigh t

P a r t

A :

1 . D . I . Water 76.3

2 . P ropy lene G l y co l 5 . 0

3. M i ranol 2MHT Modi f i e d 3 . 0

4 . Methy l Paraben 0 . 1

P a r t B :

5 . P a r i c i n 9 2 . 0

6 . I s o p r o p y l a n 50

4 . 0

7 . P ropy l P araben 0 . 1

P a r t C :

8 .

Bentone MA R h e ol o gi c al A d d i t i v e 4 . 0

9 . Z i n c O x id e

3 . 0

1 0 .3 2 8 T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e 2 . 5

M a n u f a c t u r i n g D i r e c t i o n s :

1 . Weigh i tems

1

t h r o u g h

4

i n t o a s t a i n l e e s s s t e e l steam j a c k e te d

k e t t l e . Heat P a r t A t o 6%.

2 . I n a se p a r a t e v e s s e l, add i t e m s 5 t h r o u g h 7 a nd h e a t t o

6 5 C

Mix u n t i 1 co mp le t e l y me l ted and homogeneous.

3 . M ix P a r t B s l o w l y i n t o P a r t A w h i l e m i x i n g. M i x f o r 15 t o 20

m i n . , and b r i n g t e m p e ra t u r e down t o 55C w h i l e m i x i n g .

4 .

M i x P a r t

C

se pa ra te l y us in g a homomixer and add t o above

m i x t u r e w h i l e s t i r r i n g . M ix

i t

f o r 15 m i n u t e s. M a i n t a i n

t e m p e r a tu r e and p as s th r o u g h C o l l o i d M i l l .

Formula TS-252

SOURCE: Rhone Poulenc I n c . : Sugges ted Formu la t i ons

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 100/553

78

Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations

Lotion

Scrub

P a r t

A :

W X

Water 36.2

A loe Vera Gel 1 . o

Germaben

I 1 1 . 8

Magnes i um A1 umi num S i 1 a t e ( 1

)

1 . o

P ar t B :

G l y c o l S t e a r a t e ( 2 ) 5 . 0

S a f f 1ower O i 1 0.5

Sesame O i l 0 . 5

H y d r o x y p r o p y l M e t h y l c e l l u l o s e ( 3 ) 0 . 5

P a r t C :

Sodium L a u r y l E t h e r S u l f a t e ( 4 ) 2 0 . 0

Sodium L a u r y l S u l f a t e ( 4 ) 1 8 . 0

Cocamide DEA

( 5 )

0 . 5

Cocamidopropy l Beta ine

6 ) 5 . 0

P a r t

D :

Acuscrub 44 10 .0

Procedure :

S lo w ly add t h i c ke n e r ( 2 ) w i t h a g i t a t i o n t o P a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s

u n t i l d i s s o l v e d . He at t o 70C. S e p a r a t e l y combine P a r t

B

and P a r t

C i n g r e d i e n t s , t h en add t o P a r t

A ,

m i x i n g w e l l between a d d i t i o n s .

A t 50C, m o d e r a t e l y add A cu s cr u b 44 and s t i r u n t i l s m oo th & u n i -

f o r m .

1 . Veegum

2 . Emerest 2350

3. Methocel 40-100

4 . S i pon

E S ,

Sipon LCP

5 .

Ninol 49-CE

6 . Lexa ine

C

Lot ion

Hand

Scrub

P a r t

A :

So di um C14-16 01e f Su l f o n a t e ( 1 ) 30.0

Cocamidopropy l Beta ine

(2)

6 . 7

Cocamide DEA (3 ) 2 . 0

G1 yc o l S t ea ra te

I

. o

Ammoni um Chl o r e 2 . 5

Germaben

I 1

0 . 8

Water 5 0 . 0

P a r t 8 :

H y d r o l y z e d A ni ma l P r o t e i n ( 4 ) 2 . 0

P a r t C :

Acuscrub 44 5 . 0

Procedure :

H ea t w a t e r t o 70C, t h e n s l o w l y a d d r e m a i n i n g P a r t A i n g r e d -

i e n t s . C oo l t o 55C, ad d P a r t

0

w i t h a g i t a t i o n . Add P a r t C w i t h

a g i t a t i o n an d m i x u n t i l homogeneous.

( 1 ) W i t c o n a t e AOS (3) N ino l 49-CE

(2)

L e x a i n e C (4 ) C r o t e i n SPA

SOURCE: A l l i e d S i g n a l I n c . : Su gg este d F o r m u l a t i o n s

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 101/553

Beauty Aids 79

Low Cost, Extended Wear Lipstick

R e s u l t i n g l i p s t i c k has e x c e p t i o n a l s h i n e , a dh er en ce and

wear a t t r i b u t e s . When a p p l i e d t o l i p s , t h e f o r m u l a p ro du ce s

a comfor tab le non-waxy

f i l m ,

w h ic h r e s i s t s m i g r a t i o n and

f e a t h e r i n g . The shade o f t h i s fo r m ul a i s a c l ea n , t r u e , h i g h

chrom a r e d w i t h m od er at e o p a c i t y .

C as to r O i l NF (C ry s t a l 0)

C a n d e l i l l a Wax (S&P 75)

Carnauba Wax (S&P # 1 Y e l l ow 73 )

M i c r o c r y s t a l l i n e Wax (S&P 18 )

Beeswax (S&P W h i te NF 422P)

Tocopherol (Copherol F-1300)

Propy lparaben (Lexgard P )

Buty lparaben (Lexgard B )

D&C

Red No. 6 Barium Lake, C I #15850:2 (C19-012)

D&C Red No. 7 Calcium Lake, C I #15850:1 (C19-011)

FD&C Y e l l o w No. 5 Aluminum Lake , C I #19140:1

C as to r

O i l

( C r y s t a l

0 )

(C65-4429)

61.66

8 . 3 0

2.05

4.20

1 . 8 7

0.12

0 . 0 8

0 . 0 5

1 .38

0 . 9 7

2.74

11 - 8 8

C . G l y c e r i n / D i e t h y l e n e G l y c o l / A d i p a t e C ro ss po ly me r

Procedure:

1 . Combine sec t ion A h e a t i n g t o 9OC. M i x s l o w l y ( be s u r e n o t

t o e n t r a p a i r ) u n t i l t h e p hase i s c l e a r and homogeneous,

t h e n r ed uc e t e m pe r a tu r e t o 8 0 t o 85C. C o n t i n ue s lo w m i x i n g .

2 . D i sp e r se pi gm e nt s i n s e c t i o n B' l i n t h e ca s t o r o i l c on ta in -

ed i n Phase "Btr b y a d di ng t h e d r y p ig me nt s t o t h e c a s t o r o i l

and b l e n d i n g w i t h a s p a t u l a , t h e n d i s p e r s e u s i n g a Cowles

d i s s o l v e r and f i n a l l y pass t h e b le n d t hr ou gh a t h r e e r o l l e r

m i l l

t h r e e t i m e s or u n t i l t h e p a r t i c l e s i z e o f t h e p i g m e n t s

a r e l e s s t h a n number 7 on a Haggeman gauge.

3. When sect ion B adequate1y d i spe rsed , add se c t i o n

B

t o s e c t i o n

A .

C o n ti n ue s lo w a g i t a t i o n and m a i n t a i n a

t e m pe r a tu r e o f 80 t o 85C.

4. When sect ions

A B

i s homogenous add se c t i o n C t o "AB".

M a i n t a i n a t e m pe r at u re o f 8 0 t o 85C and m i x s l o w l y u n t i l

homogeneous.

(Le xor ez 100) 4 .70

5 . M o ld s t i c k s a t 80-85C.

SOURCE: I n o l e x C hemi ca l CO. : F o r m u l a t i o n 3 9 8 - 1 5 2 - 1

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 102/553

80 Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations

L o w Cost Lipstick

R e su l t in g l i p s t i c k i s a low c o s t f o r m u l a t i o n t h a t exh b i t s

good a p p l i c a t i o n c h a r a c t e r i s t i c s and i s c o m f o rt a b l e on 1 p s .

W e a ra b i l i t y o f t h e l i p s t i c k i s l i m i t e d . F ea th er in g and rn g r a t i o n

o f t h e l i p s t i c k f i l m w ou ld be expec ted . The shade o f t h i s

f o r m u la i s a c l e an , t r u e , h i g h chroma r e d w i t h m o de ra te o p a c i t y .

%w/w

A . C as to r O i l NF (C ry s t a l

0)

66.36

C a n d e l i l l a Wax

( S & P

75) 8 .30

Carnauba Wax ( S & P #1 Yel low 73) 2 .05

M ic r o c r y s t a l l i n e Wax (S&P 18) 4 .20

Beeswax ( S & P Wh it e NF 422P) 1 . 8 7

Tocophero l (Cophero l F -1300) 0 .12

Propy lparaben (Lexgard P )

0 . 0 8

B u ty l pa raben (Lexga rd 8) 0.05

8 . D&C Red No. 6 Barium Lake, C I #15850:2 (C19-012) 1 .3 8

D&C

Red No. 7 Calcium Lake,

C I

#15850:1 (C19-011) 0.9 7

FD&C Y e l l o w No. 5 Aluminum L ake ,

C I

#19140:1

(C65-4429) 2.74

C as to r O i l ( C r y s t a l 0) 11 -8 8

Procedure :

1 . Combine sec t i on A h e at in g t o QOC. M i x s l o w l y ( b e s u r e

n o t t o e n t r a p a i r ) u n t i l t h e phase i s c l e a r and homogeneous,

t h a n r e d uc e t e m p e r a tu r e t o 80 t o 85C. C o n ti n ue s l ow m i x i n g .

2 . D is pe rs e p ig me nt s i n s e c t i o n 8 i n t h e c as to r o i l c on ta in ed

i n phase 0 b y ad din g t h e d r y p ig me nts t o t h e c a s t o r o i l

and b l e n d i n g w i t h a s p a t u l a , t h e n d i s p e r s e u s i n g a C ow le s

d i s s o l v e r a nd f i n a l l y pass t h e b le n d t h r ou g h a t h r e e r o l l e r

m i l l

t h r e e t im es o r u n t i l t h e p a r t i c l e s i z e o f t h e pigm en ts

a r e l e s s t h a n number 7 on a Haggeman gauge.

3. When sect ion B i s a de q ua te ly d i s p e r s e d, add s e c t i o n 6 t o

s e c t i o n A . C o nt in u e sl ow a g i t a t i o n and m a i n t a i n a tempera-

t u r e o f 80 t o 85C.

4 . M o ld s t i c k s a t 80-85C.

Formula 398-152-2

Lip Ba lm

R e su l t i n g p ro du c t i s a p r o t e c t i v e l i p balm t h a t e x h i b i t s

e xt en de d wear. c h a r a c t e r i s t i c s due t o L ex or ez 100. The p roduc t

co u l d be po s i t i o ne d as an ove r t h e cou n te r (OTC) pha rmaceu t i ca l

s k i n p r o t e c t a n t w i t h p e t r o l a tu m as t h e a c t i v e i n g r e d i e n t , and as

a s u ns c re e n, w i t h o c t y l m eth ox yc in na ma te a s t h e a c t i v e i n g r e d i e n t

%J&

Oc ty l Me thoxyc i nnama te (E sca l o l 557 ) 10 .00

P e t r o l a t u m

USP

(Super Whi te) 20.0 0

G l y c e r i n / D i e t h y l e n e G l y c o l / A d i p a t e C ro s sp o ly m er

(Lexorez 100) 10.00

P e t r o l a t u m ( a n d) L an ol i n A l c o h o l ( L e x a t e P X ) 49.00

C a n d e l i l l a Wax ( S & P 75) 8 .00

Carnauba Wax ( S & P #1 Y e l l o w 73) 3 .00

Procedure:

1 . Combine a l l i n g r e d i e n t s a nd h e a t t o 80C.

2 . M i x u n t i l homogeneous.

3 . Cool t o 65C and f i l l i n t o p r o p e l - r e p e l c o n t a in e r s .

SOURCE: I no l ex C hemi ca l Go.

:

Sugges ted Formu la t i ons

Formula 383-186

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 103/553

BeauvAids 81

Makeup Foundation

T h i s r i c h , e l e g a n t f o u n d a t i o n i n c o r p o r a t e s Ge ahle ne 750 f o r

added m o i s t u r i z a t i o n and smooth a p p l i c a t i o n .

Ins red ien t /T rade Name:

Dei on i zed Water

Magnesium Aluminum Si l icate/Veegum U l t r a

Xakthan Gum/Kel t r o l

Ny lon- l2 /Org aso l 2002D Na tu ra l Ex t r a Cos

Sodi um P C A / A j ew N-50

Dei o ni zed Water

P ropy l ene G l yco l

I r o n

Ox i des (and ) T a I c /Lo M i c ron P i nk

I r o n Ox i des (and) T a l c / Lo M i c ron Y e l l ow

I r o n Ox i des (and ) T a l c / Lo M i c ron B l ack

T i a n i um O i ox i de/3328 T i a n i um D i ox id e

G ly ce ry l S tearate /Lexemul 55G

S t e a r i c Ac i d /Emerso l 132

DEA-Cetyl Phosphate/Amphisol

Methy lparaben (and) Bu ty lpara ben (and)

E thy l pa raben (and ) P ropy l pa raben /N i pas ta t

I s o s t e a r y l Neopentanoate/Dermo l 185

M i n e r a l

O i l

(and) Hydrogenated Bu ty le ne /E th y lene /

Sty ren e Copolymer (and) Hydro genated Eth y le ne/

Pro pyl ene /St yre ne Copolymer/ /Geahlene 750

-

Phenoxyethanol /Emeressence

1160

Tocophero l Ace ta te /V i tamin E A ce ta te

Weight%

46.50

0.80

0 .30

1 . 2 0

1

. o o

10.00

7 .00

0 . 4 0

2 . 0 0

0 .15

5.60

2.00

2.00

2 . 0 0

0 . 2 5

3 . 0 0

15.00

0.70

0 . 1 0

Procedure:

M i x w e l l . Add t h e r e m a in i ng p a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s , m i x i ng w e l l

a f t e r e ach a d d i t i o n . I n a s e p ar a te c o n t a i n e r , hom ogenize p a r t

B u n t i l sm ooth . Add p a r t B t o p a r t A . H eat t o 8OC. M i x u n t i l

u n i f o r m . H eat p a r t C t o 8OC and mix u n t i l t h e s o l i d s a r e

d i s s o l v e d . Add p a r t C t o p a r t A . M i x f o r

30

m in ut es u n t i l

homogeneous. Con t in ue mix in g and c o o l i n g

t o

35C.

SOURCE:

Penreco : Suggested For mu la t i on

D i s p e rs e Veegum U1 t r a t o r a p i d l y a g i t a t e d d e i o n i zed w a t e r .

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 104/553

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 105/553

Beaury

Aids 83

Moisture Stick Base

M i n e r a l O i 1 80/90 V i

sc .

Ross Wax 26-1152

Ross

Wax 15-1 182

Ross Wax 1824

Jo j oba O i l

Amer la te

P

V i t a m i n E

%

47 .0

2 8 . 0

2 .0

1 0 . 0

2 . 0

10 .0

1 . o

Procedure:

M e l t a l l i n g r e d i e n t s t o ge t he r i n a k e t t l e t o 170F under

a g i t a t i o n . When m ixed t ho rou gh l y pou r i n t o mo lds . C appi ng may

be necessary .

Cream Rouge Formula

P a r t

A :

Ross R e f in e d #1 Yel lo w Carnauba Wax

Ross O z o k e r i t e Wax 77W

M i n e r a l O i l

I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e

P a r t B:

T a l c

T i a n i um D i ox id e

C o l o r

%

6 . 0

1 0 . 0

2 4 . 0

27.0

10 .0

2 0 . 0

3 . 0

Procedure:

t h r e e r o l l

m i l l .

M e l t P a r t A t o 70C. When c o o l e d r u n t o g e t h e r w i t h P a r t

0

on a

Pot Eyeshadow

I n q r e d i e n t s :

M i n e r a l O i l 70/80

P e t r o l a t u m

Ross O z o k e r i t e Wax 77W

Ross Ref ed Candel 1 a L i ght F1akes

Pigment Paste

P r e s e r v a t i v e

%

40.0

15 .0

20.0

4 . 0

20.0

1 . o

Procedure:

G r i n d c o l o r w i t h o i l and p e t ro la tu m i n r o l l e r

m i l l .

Heat

waxes u n t i l m e l t e d an d ad d p ig m en t p a s t e . M a i n t a i n 85C f o r 30

m in ut es w i t h a g i t a t i o n . Pour i n t o m ol ds .

SOURCE: Frank

8 .

Ross

Co., I n c . : S uggested F o r mu l a t i o ns

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 106/553

84 Cosmetic

and

Toiletry Formulations

Mois tu r izing L iposo m al Gel

I n a r e d ie n t s :

1 A) Cremophor

RH

410

2 F ragrance : PCV 1454

3 B )

4

5

6

7

8

9

10

11

Water demi n e r a l ed

G l y c e r i n

N i

pag i n

P h y t a l u r o n a t e

F i o b r o s i de

A1 1 a n t o i n

Carbopol 941

T r i ethano lami ne

Euxyl K-200

% w / w

5,00

0,10

81,50

2,00

0,15

0,30

5,00

5,00

0,30

0,30

0,35

Procedure:

D i s s o lv e i t e m 2 i n i t em

1 .

D i s s o l v e i te m s 4-9 i n w a t er ( 3 ) .

Under s t i r r i n g , s l o w l y a dd phase B ) t o phase A ) . F o r t h i c k e n -

i n g , i n c o r p o r a t e and d i s s o l v e i t e m

10.

A d j u s t t h e pH w i t h i t e m

11 t o 7 . 0 . A t u r b i d , f l u i d s o l u t i o n i s o bt ai n ed .

A p p l i c a t i o n N o . D 018.A/02.93

Skin Tightening Gel

I

ar ed n ts

1

A )

W ate r dem i ne ra l i zed

2 Phenoni p

4 Glucam E-10

5 B ) Carbopol 940

6 T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e

7

C ) Pentacare

HP

Procedure:

3 Euxyl K-200

D i s s o l v e i t e m s 2-4 i n w at er ( 1 ) .

S t i r

f a s t and i n c o r p o r a t e i t e m 5.

N e u t r a l i z e and t h i c k e n i t e m 6.

S l o w l y a d d i t e m

7.

A p p l i c a t i o n No. D 032.0 /06 .93

SOURCE:

Pentapharm L t d . : Suggested Form u la t i on s

% w/w

87

95

0;30

0,20

5,00

0,75

0,80

5,00

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 107/553

Beauty

Aids

85

Moisturizing Make-Up Foundation

( A ) Ph os ph ol ip id SV

0 . 5 %

Kelzan

AR

i n

1%

NaCl

Propy lene G1 y c o l

Pigment (9/12 White/Brown)

S t e a r e t h - 2 0

Methy l Paraben

B)

I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e

H exy l Lau ra te

S t e a r e t h - 2

Dow F l u i d 200/100 c s .

Propy l Paraben

% B Y Weiaht

3 . 0

6 4 . 5

8 . 0

1 5 . 0

1 . 6

0 . 2 5

2 . 0

2 . 0

2 . 4

1 . o

0 . 2 5

Procedure:

55C. B le nd phase B i n t o phase A w i t h s u f f i c i e n t h om og en iz at io n

t o en su re good e m u l s i f i c a t i o n . S t i r c o o l t o 40C, add f ra g ra n c e,

and package.

Comments:

T h i s l i q u i d f o u n d a t i o n i s enhanced b y t h e p re se nc e o f Phos-

p h o l i p i d E FA w hic h a i d s i n b i n d i n g t h e p ig men t

t o

s k i n f o r a

l on g er l a s t i n g a p p l i c a t i o n . F u rt he r b e n e f i t s o bt a i ne d by u s i ng

Phosphol i d EFA n c l ude a smooth, non-cha l ky app l a t i o n and

a n o n- dr y i ng a f t e r f e e l on t h e s k i n .

Combine i n g r ed i e n t s i n phases and B as shown and he at t o

Skin Cleanser

Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e ( 1 mole 25%)

Monamate LNT-40

Monamid 716

Phosphol i d PTC

Water

Sodi um C h l o r i d e

% B y Weiaht

28.00

1 2 . 5 0

3 . 0 0

2.50

52 .75

1 .2 5

Procedure :

A d j u s t pH t o 5. 5- 6 . 0 w i t h c i t r i c a c i d . Add c o l o r a nd f r a g r a n c e

as requ i red . P ackage .

T y p i c a l P r o p e r t i e s :

B le nd i n g r e d i e n t s i n o rd e r l i s t e d a t room t em p er at ur e .

Ap pe aran ce: C l e a r l i q u i d

V i s c o s i t y : A p p r o x i m a t e l y

3 , 0 0 0

cps

SOURCE:

Mona I n d u s t r i e s , I n c . : S ug ge ste d F o r m u l a t i o n s

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 108/553

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 109/553

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 110/553

88

Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations

Non-Feathering Extended Wear Lipstick

o r tab l e non -w axy f i

n g. Droop p o i n t o f

R e s u l t i n g p r o d u c t i s a mo ld ab le l i p s t i c k w i t h e x c e pt io n a l

s h i n e , a p p l i c a t i o n and e xt en d ed wea a t t r i b u t e s . When a p l i e d

m

he

t o l i p s , t h e f o r m u l a p r o du c es a corn

w hi ch r e s i s t s m i g r a t i o n and f e a t h e r

s t i c k i s a bove 43C.

QS t o

. C as to r O i l ( C r y s t a l 0)

C a n d e l i l l a Wax (S&P 75)

Carnauba Wax (S&P #1 Ye l l o w 73 )

M i c r o c r y s t a l l i n e Wax ( S&P 18)

100

8 . 2 3

2 .07

4.19

Beeswax- (S&P W h it e NF-422P) 1. 08

G ly ce ry l S t ea ra te (and) PEG-100 S te ar a t e (Lexemul 561) 1 .09

P e t r o l a t u m ( an d ) L a n o l i n A l c o h o l ( L e x a t e PX) 2 .0 1

C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e ( L e x o l GT-865) 1 .0 8

O c t y l S t ea ra te (Le xo l EHS) 2 .06

P r o p y le n e G l y c o l D i c r a p r y l a t e / D i c a p r a t e ( L e x o l PG-865) 1 . 0 6

S i l i c a (Cab-0-Si1 M-5) 0 .13

P ropy l pa raben (Lexga rd P) 0 .08

B u t y l paraben (Lexgard B)

0.05

G l y c e r i n / D i e t h y l e n e G l y c o l / A d i p a t e C ro ss po ly me r

(Lexo rez 100) 4.77

Tocophero l (Cophero l F -1300) 0 .1 2

B . Pigments 5.00-1'3.00

Procedure:

1 . Combine s u f f i c i e n t c a s t o r

o i l

f r o m s e c t i o n A w i t h p ig m en ts

2 .

D i s p e r se p i gm e n ts i n s t e p number 1, f i r s t w i t h a Cowles

i n s e c t i on lfB't i n a r a t i o o f a p pr ox im a te ly 2 p a r t s c a s t o r o i l

t o 1 p a r t p ig m en ts .

d i s s o l v e r , t h e n reduce t h e p igment p a r t i c l e s i z e t o l e s s t ha n

number 7 on a Haggeman gauge by p as si ng t h e di s p e r s i o n

t hr ou gh a t h r e e r o l l e r m i l l .

3 . Combine t h e b a l an c e o f i n g r e d i e n t s i n s e c t i o n A , h e a t i n g

4 . B e g in a g i t a t i o n a s soon as waxes b e g i n t o m e l t . A g i t a t e

s l o w l y . Do n o t e n t r a p a i r .

5. When sect ion

A

i s homogeneous and a t 85-90C, add s e c t i o n

B l l

t o s e c t i on

A .

6. Pour i n t o mo lds a t 80-85C.

SOURCE: I n o l e x C hemical C o . : Formula

398-62-2

t o 85-9OC.

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 111/553

Beauty

Aids 89

Oil/Water Matte Cream Makeup

Ingred n

t

s

A

Magnesi um a1 umi num s i 1 a t e

S od i um ca rboxyme thy l ce l l u l ose

Water , de i on i zed

B D i s p e r s i n g a g e n t

P r o p y l e n e g l y c o l

Water

C T a l c

K a o l i n

T i a n i um d i ox i d e

D I r o n o x i de s

I s o p r op y l m yr i s t a t e

2 .60

0 .40

42.40

0 .30

5.00

12.30

18.50

1.30

3 .70

1 . 5 0

5 . 0 0

E A r l a c e l 2 0 and Tween 20 3 . 0 0

F S te a r y l a l co ho l and A mer i chol 4 .00

Procedure:

u n t i l smooth. M i c r o p u l v e r i z e (C) a nd add t o ( B ) . M i l l t o o b t a i n

a smooth pa s te . Add (8 -C) t o (A ) and hea t t o 65C. Heat (D,E,F)

t o 70C and ad d t o (A,B,C ) b l e n d . M i x u n t i 1 c o o l .

B le nd d r y i n g r e d i e n t s

o f

( A ) and add t o wa te r s l o w l y a g i t a t i n g

Lip Balm

I n s r e d i e n t s :

A S y n t h e t i c S p e r m a c e t i

10 .00

P e t r o l a t u m 4 0 00

G1 yc e ro l mon ostea rate 26.00

C apry l /C ap r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e , N eobee M-5 13.60

Squalane, Robane 10.00

B A l l a n t o i n

Lemon o i l ,

USP

Mentho l

0.20

0 . 1 0

0 . 1 0

Procedure :

Pour i n m o ld s.

SOURCE: I C 1 S u r f a c t a n t s : S ug ge ste d F o r m u l a t i o n s

M e l t ( A ) u n t i l u n i f or m . Add

( 6 )

a nd s t i r u n t i l homogeneous.

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 112/553

9

Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations

Oil-In-Water Milk Emulsion

I n g r e d i e n t s :

A A r l a t o n e 9 8 5

B r i j 721

C apry l / cap r

t

r

1yce r es

Ar lamo l HD

B P r op y le n e g l y c o l

G-2330

Water

C * P r e s e r v a t i v e

*Perfume

* q . s . t h e se i n g r e d i e n t s .

o ow w

4.00

2 . 0 0

5 . 0 0

5 . 0 0

1

. 2 5

1 . 2 5

81 .50

Procedure :

s t i r r i n g t h o r o u g h l y . Homogenize m i x t u r e when e m u l s io n r e ac h es

ap pr ox im at e ly 40C. Add (C) be low 35C.

Formu la t i on F41-3 -2

H ea t ( A ) and ( B) t o 70C s e p a r a t e l y . S l o w l y add ( 8 ) t o ( A )

O il-In-W ater Milk Em ulsion

I n g r e d i e n t s :

A A r l a t o n e 9 8 5

B r i j 721

Ar lamo l S 7

M in er al o i l

B G-2330

Water

%w/w

4.00

2 . 0 0

6 . 0 0

5 . 0 0

4.00

79.00

C * P r e s e r v a t i v e

*Perfume

* q . s . t h es e i n g r e d i e n t s .

Procedure:

Heat

( A )

and (B) t o 70C se pa ra te l y . S l ow l y add (B ) t o (A)

s t i r r i n g t h o r o u g h l y . Homogenize m i x t u r e . Remove f r o m t h e

homogenizer and a l low

t o

c o o l

t o

35C w h i l e s t i r r i n g . Add (C)

and co o l t o 30C. Package.

Formula F44-6-4

SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : S ug ge st ed F o r m u l a t i o n s

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 113/553

Beauty

Ai&

91

One Coat Mascara

T h i s i s a l o n g w ea ri ng , n o n - f l a k i n g m asca ra w h ic h c o a t s t h e

l a s h e s e v e n l y i n one c o a t . The f o r m u l a t i o n s e p ar a te s l a s h e s

e a s i l y d u r i n g a p p l i c a t i o n and does n o t c lu mp . The f o r m u l a t i o n

does n o t f l a k e d u r i n g wear a nd has t h e a d d i t i o n a l b e n e f i t o f

w ashin g o f f e a s i l y w i t h o u t t h e need f o r t h e u se o f s p e c i a l eye

make-up removers o r h ars h sc ru bb in g.

%w/w

A .

Dei on i zed Water 57 .70

Col l o i d a l Magnesi um A1 umi num S i 1 a t e (Veegum H V ) 1.80

H y d r ox ye th y l ce l l u l os e (QP-15,000-H) 2 .70

Pigment (P ur Oxy Y e ll o w BC and Pur Oxy Bl a c k

BC)

8.95

Methy lparaben (Lexgard

M )

0.18

Xanthan Gum ( K e l t r o l T ) 4.45

P ropy l pa raben (Lexga rd

P )

0.09

8 .

P V P / V A Copolymer ( L u v i s k o l 73W)

I m i d a z o l i n y l Urea (Germal l 115 )

T e t raso d iu m EDTA (Hamp-ene Na4)

10.00

0 .20

0.08

C . G ly ce ry l S t ea ra te (Lexemul 515) 2 . 0 0

Beeswax N F (S&P White N F 422P) 4.75

G ly c e ry l S t ea ra te (and) PEG-100 St ea ra te (Lexemul 561) 3 .50

G l y c e r i n / D i e t h y l e n e G l y c o l / A d i p a t e C ro ss po ly me r

(Lexorez 100) 3 . 5 0

S o r b i t a n S t e a r a t e

N F

( A r l a c e l

60) 0.10

Procedure:

1 .

Combine A excep t f o r t h e p i gments and hea t t o 80-85C.

When temp era tu r e i s reached , homogen ize m ix tu re s lo w ly

a dd in g p i gments.

2 .

Combine l'C1' and hea t t o 80-85C. S l ow l y add t o

A .

3 . M i x AC f o r f i v e m in u te s . Add

r l B r l

t o A C and homogenize

f o r f i f t e e n m i nu t es on medium speed w h i l e c o o l i n g .

4. A t 60C t r a n s f e r b a t c h t o t a n k e qu ip pe d w i t h a d o u b l e - a c t i o n

s id e- sw ee p a g i t a t o r . M i x and c o o l t o r oom t e m p e r a tu r e .

5.

A d j u s t s o l i d s l e v e l t o 59.1+ -0.1% . S o l i d s were r u n i n a l l O C

oven f o r one hour .

SOURCE: Inolex Chemical

Co.

: F o r m u l a t i o n 383-185

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 114/553

92

Cosmetic

and Toiletry

Formulations

o f h e a l t hy

p r o v id e mo

Overnight Facial Moisturizer

A p ow e rf u l m o i s t u r i z e r d es ig ne d t o r e s t o r e t h e normal s t a t e

s k i n . The h i g h s u b s t a n t i v i t y t ow ar ds s k i n h e l p s t o

s t u r e r e g u la t i o n .

P a r t A :

Phosphol

G l y c e r i n

Water

P a r t B :

S t e a r e t h - 2

PEG-32

d EFA

C et e ar y l A1 coho1

C e t y l P a l m i t a t e

M y r i s t y 1 M y ri s t a t e

I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e

D i meth i cone ( 1OOcS)

% by Weigh t

4 . 0 0

2 .00

2 .00

73.00

2 .50

4 .00

4 . 0 0

4.00

3 . 0 0

1

. 50

B l end and he a t bo th phases se pa ra te l y t o 70C. Homogenize ( B )

i n t o ( A) w i t h c o nt i nu e d h e at

f o r

an a p p r o p r i a t e t i m e w h i l e

a v o i d i n g a e r a t i o n . S t i r - c o o l t o 45-50C, t h e n add f r a g r a n c e ,

c o l o r i n g , o r p r e s e r v a t i v e as r e q u i r e d and

f i l l .

Moisturizing Make-Up Foundation

An e l e g a n t p r o d u c t c o n t a i n i ng Phosphol i d EFA which pr ov id es

smooth f e e l a nd c ov er ag e w h i l e e l i m i n a t i n g t h e no rm al d r y i n g

e f f e c t s

o f

c o s m e t i c p ig m e nt s on s k i n .

P a r t A :

Phosphol i d EFA

0 .5% K e l zan A R i n 0 .1% NaCl

Pigment

S teare th -20

Methy l Paraben

P a r t

8:

I s op r o py l M y r i s t a t e

H e x y l L a u r a t e

S t e a r e t h - 2

D imethy lpo lys i l oxane (2OOcS)

Propy l Paraben

Oh

By Weisht

3 . 0 0

72.50

15 .00

1 . 8 0

0 . 2 5

2 .00

2.00

2 .40

1 . o o

0 . 2 5

Combine i n g r e d i e n t s i n b o t h ph as es s e p a r a t e l y a nd h ea t t o

65C. Homogenize Part A t ho rough ly . Add ( B ) t o ( A) a nd c o n t i n u e

t o homogenize. S t i r - c o o l , w i t h mi ni ma l a e r a t i o n , t o 40C, t h e n

f i l l .

SOURCE:

Mona I n d u s t r i e s , I n c . : PHOSPHOLIPID EFA: Suggested

F o r m u l a t i o n s

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 115/553

Beauty Aids

93

O/W Cleansing Mi lk

I n q r e d i e n t s :

A A r l a t o n e 9 8 5

B r i j 721

A r l amo l

HD

B At las G-2330

* P r e s e r v a t i v e

Water

C Perfume

4 . 0 0

2 .00

10.00

3 . 0 0

80.90

0 . 1 0

* q . s .

t h e s e i n g r e d i e n t s .

Procedure:

s t i r r i n g t h o r o u g h l y . Homogenize m i x t u r e f o r one m i n u t e . A l l o w

t o cool

t o 30C w h i l e s t i r r i n g . Add ( C) and w h i l e s t i r r i n g .

Package.

Heat (A) and ( B ) t o 70C s e p a r a t e l y . S l o w l y add ( B ) t o ( A )

W/O Cleans ing Mi lk

I n g r e d i e n t s :

A

A r l ace l 780

Arlamol S7

Ar lamol

HD

B

Arlas G-2330

MgS04.

H20

* P r e s e r v a t i v e

Water

C Perfume

?g yy

6.00

6.00

10.00

4 . 0 0

0 .70

73.15

0.15

* q . s . t h e s e i n g r e d i e n t s .

Heat (A) and

( B )

t o 70C s e p a r a t e l y . S l o w l y add ( 8 ) t o ( A )

Procedure:

s t i r r i n g t h o r o u g h l y . Homogenize m i x t u r e f o r o ne m i n u t e . A1 l o w

t o c oo l t o 30C w h i l e s t i r r i n g . Add ( C) and w h i l e s t i r r i n g .

Package.

SOURCE: I C 1

S u r f a c t a n t s : S ug ge st ed F o r m u l a t i o n s

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 116/553

94 Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations

O/W Cleansing Mi lk

I n g r e d i e n t s :

A

P a r a f f i n o i l p e r l i qu id u m

A r l amo l

E

B A r l a tone 2121

P r o p y l e n e g l y c o l

G l y c e r o l

* P r e s e r v a t i v e

C Water

Carbomer 934

( 3 %

w / w m a s t e r g e l )

D *NaOH (10% w / w s o l u t i o n ) t o a d j u s t pH t o 6 .5 -7

E *Perfume

* q . s .

t h e s e i n g r e d i e n t s .

%w/w

1 5 . 0 0

3 . 0 0

2 .00

1 . 2 5

1 .25

7 2

50

5 . 0 0

Procedure:

M i x t h e A r l a t on e 2121 i n t h e w a te r phase a t 80C under modera te

s t i r r i n g u n t i l a homogenous d i s p e r s i o n i s form ed. D is p er se t h e

h y d r o c o l l o i d i n t h e h e at ed w a te r phase a t 75C w i t h mod era te s t i r -

r i n g . Add t h e o i l phase ( R T ) t o t h e wa te r phase w h i l e s t i r r i n g

i n t e n s i v e l y . Homogenise t h e m i x tu re be tw een 7 5 and 65C. E ne rg y

i n p u t i s r e l a t e d t o f i n a l f o r m u l a t i o n v i s c o s i t y . A l l ow t o co o l

t o 40C w h i l e s t i r r i n g . Homogenise a g a i n i f a dd in g a d d i t i o n a l

i n g r e d i e n t s . e .

g .

pe r fume , v i t am i ns ,

.

. .

. .

.

D ry Skin

Oil

with Alcohol

I n g r e d i e n t s :

A r l a c e l 1 8 6

A r l amo l E

Et ha no l , SDA-40, (190 P ro o f )

Cyc lometh icone

%w/w

30.00

30.00

30.00

10.00

Procedure:

warm t h e A r la ce l 186 t o a ch ie ve c l a r i t y b e f o r e m i x in g .

Formula C P 1049

SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : S ug ge st ed F o r m u l a t i o n s

M ix a l l i n g r e d i e n t s w e l l a t room t e m pe r a tu r e .

I f

necessary

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 117/553

BeautyAids

95

Petroleum Oil/Petroleum Wax Free Lipstick

T h is l i p s t i c k i s a creamy s t i c k t h a t d o e s n ' t use any p e t r o l -

eum o i l s o r waxes i n t h e f o r m u l a n o r do es

i t

u se any s y n t h e t i c

raw m a t e r i a l s t h a t has p e t ro l eu m base p r o d u c t s i n i t .

O i l Phase I

1. Ke st er Wax 100 ( K o s te r Keunen)

2 . C a n d e l i l l a (K os te r Keunen)

3

Hydroxy Po ly es te r (Ko s te r Keunen)

4. He xa ne dio l Behenyl Beeswax ( K o s t e r Keunen)

5. Cocoa But ter

6 . Shea But ter (Koster Keunen)

7 . Squalane (Centerchem)

8 . R i ce B ran

O i l

(Koster Keunen)

9 .

O c t y l Pa l m i ta t e ( I n o l ex )

10.Coconut

O i l

( A l n o r )

11 . V i t a m i n E (BASF)

1 2 . V i t a m i n A Palmi ta te (BASF)

13.Wheat Germ O i l ( L i p o )

14.Sweet Almond O i l ( L i p o )

15 . I so p ro py l P a l m i t a te (Un ichema)

1 6 . 0 y s t e r N u t O i l (Koster Keunen)

17 .C as to r O i l (Caschem)

18 .E t ho xy la t ed Carnauba (K os te r Keunen)

19 .0 ra ng e Wax (K o st e r Keunen)

20 .T i02

(WC&D)

21.Z-Cote (Sunsmar t )

22. Pigment

23. Bet a G lucan 15% Coarse (K os te r Keunen)

6.00

7 .00

3 .70

4 . 0 0

3 . 0 0

4.50

1.50

4.00

3 .00

5 .50

0.10

0.10

1.50

1 .50

15.50

1 . 5 0

20.00

1 .30

5.50

2 .50

5.00

2 . 8 0

0.50

Procedure :

Add 20 ,21 and 22 t og e t he r . To t h e m i x tu re o f p i gmen ts add

17, 18, and 19, he at t i l l e v e r y th i n g i s d i sp e r se d . Add t h e r e s t

o f t h e i n g r e d i e n t s e x c ep t t h e B e t a G l uc a n . The B e t a G lu c an w i l l

be added l a s t t o t h e b at ch , j u s t b e f o r e p o u r i ng i n t o t h e mo ld s.

A da pt io n o f f or mu la and i t s i n f l u e n c e on t h e p r o d u c t :

W i t h

t h e

i n c r e a s e o r d e c r e a s e

of

o i l s an d /o r waxes one c o u l d

c r e a t e a s t i c k t h a t i s c ream ie r

o r

h a r d e r .

SOURCE: Kos te r Keunen, I n c . : Suggested Form u la t i on s

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 118/553

96 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Pressed Powder Eye Shadow

Pearlescent Type)

I n G r e d i e n t s :

( 1 ) B e n t o n i t e

( N F

grade)

( 2 ) Mearl n-AC

3 ) Kaopol i te TLC

( 4 ) Z i n c S t e a r a t e ( f i n e g ro un d)

( 5 ) Magnesium Carbonate

6 ) A c e t o l

7 ) P o l y s o r b a t e 2 0

8 ) Deion ized Water

P r e s e r v a t i v e

Procedure:

"/.by Weight

5 . 0

Dry mix ( l ) , ( 2 ) , 3 ) ,

(4),

and ( 5 ) . I n s e pa ra te t a n k ,

t h o r o u g h l y m i x

6 ) ,

( 7 ) ,

and

8 ) .

Then s l ow l y add t h i s m ix

3 5 . 0

29 .0

8 . 0

1 . o

3 . 0

9 . 0

0 0

q . s

u r e

t o t h e d r y m i x . S cr ee n t h r o u g h a No. 16 s i e ve and p re ss .

p roduc t used .

Fo l l ow recommended h an d l i n g p r a c t i c e s o f t h e s u p p l i e r o f each

Face Mask

n a r e d i e n t s :

1 ) De ion ized Water

2 )

B e n t o n i t e (NF g rade )

( 3 ) K a o l i n USP

( 4 )

I s o p r o p y l A l c o h o l

( 5 )

Lanol in (PEG 5 0 )

6 ) Gl yc e r y l S te a r a t e (Emeres t 2000)

( 7 ) Dimeth icone

( D o w

Corn ing 200)

( 8 ) Phenoxyethanol (Emmenessence)

(9) Methy l Paraben

(10)Propy l Paraben

% bv Weight

3 6 . 7

8 . 0

4 0 . 0

10.0

0 . 5

1 . 5

1 . 5

1 . 5

0 . 2

0 . 1

Procedure:

Add ( 2 ) t o

( 1 )

and he a t t o SOC, add ( 9 ) and (1 0 ) u n t i l

d i s s o l v e d . Add ( 5 ) , 6 ) ,

( 7 ) ,

and

8 ) .

Cool and add ( 4 ) w i t h

good m i x i n g u n t i l d i s p e r s e d . Add ( 3 ) and c on t i n ue h i gh speed

m i x i ng u n t i l c o mp le te ly u n i f or m .

each product used.

f 1

ammab le i ng red ien ts .

SOURCE: K a o p o l i t e , I n c . : S ug ge st ed F o r m u l a ti o n s

F o l l o w recommended han d l i ng p r a c t i c e s o f t h e s u p p l i e r o f

Good i n d u s t r i a l p r a c t i c e s s h o u ld be use d when h a n d l i n g

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 119/553

BeautyAids

97

Pressed Powder Eyeshadow

Phase A :

T a l c

Z i n c S t e a r a t e

Carmi ne

Gemtone Mauve Quartz

F lamenco Super Blue

A n t i m i c r o b i a l

Phase B :

A n t i o x i d a n t

Squal ane

C a r n a t i o n M i n e r a l O i l

Phase

C :

Flemenco Super Blue

S/oWt

40.40

4 . 0 0

2 .00

1 9 . 0 0

12 .60

a . s

q . s .

5 .00

7 . 0 0

1 0 .0 0

Procedure:

T ho roughl y b l en d and d i s pe rs e A . Add B i n t o a su pp o rt v e s s e l ,

h e a t and mi x u n t i l u n i f o r m . S p ra y

B

i n t o p re mix ed

A

and con t i nue

b l e n d i n g . P u l v e r i z e and r e t u r n t o b l e n d e r . Add C t o A - B and mix

u n t i 1 u n i f or m .

Molded Eye Shadow

Polytetrafluorethylene-treated

mica

Mica

T i

an: urn-di o x i de-co ated mica

C o l o r a n t

D i m et h yl p o l y s i

1

oxane

C a r n a t i o n M i n e r a l O i 1

G l y c e ry l t r i o c t a n o a t e

Fragrance

E thano l

Cosmetic Aerosol Foam

PEG-2 s t e a r y l e t he r

PEG-10 s t e a r y l e th e r

C a r n a t i o n M i n e r a l

O i 1

I s o p r op y l p a l m i t a t e

Oc ty l dodecano l

C e t y l A 1 coho1

Water

Pro pel 1 ant=N20

%Wt.

5 0 . 0

27 .0

1 0 . 0

3 . 0

4 . 0

3.0

3.0

0 . 1

q

*

s . 100 .0

4.50%

1.50

7 . 0 0

7 . 0 0

6 . 5 0

0 . 5 0

q s

t o 1 00 .0 0

SOURCE:

W i tco C o rp . : P e tro leum S p e c i a l t i e s G roup : S uggested

F o r m u l a t i o n s

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 120/553

98

Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations

Pressed Powder with 1% Eldew

I n g r e d i e n t :

T a l c S up ra A

N y l on

12

L e c i t h i n T re at ed S e r i c i e

L e c i t h i n T r e a te d Mi ca

La ur oy l L y s i ne/Ami hope LL

Z i n c S t e a r a t e

I s o p r o p y l L an ol a t e

H y d r o x yl a t e d L an ol i n

I s o p r op y l I s o s t e a r a t e

Cholesteryl/Behenyl/Octyldodecyl Lauroy l G lu tamate /

Eldew

CL-301

B u t y l S t e a r a t e

Germal l

I 1

Methy lparaben

P ropy l pa raben

Cosmetic Brown

3277

Cosmetic Brown 1985

Cosmetic Brown 1654

D & C Red 30 Lake

Pressed Powder with

3%

Eldew

I n p r e d i e n t :

T a l c S up ra

A

N y l on 12

L ec i t h i n T r e at ed S e r i c i e

L e c i t h i n T r e at e d M ic a

La ur oy l Lys ine/Ami hope LL

Z i n c S t e a r a t e

I s o p r o p y l L a n o l a t e

H y d r o x yl a t e d L an ol i n

I s o p r o p y l I s o s t e a r a t e

Cholesteryl/Behenyl/Octyldodecyl Lauroy l G lu tamate /

Eldew CL-301

B u t y l S t e a r a t e

Germal l

11

Methy lparaben

P ropy l pa raben

Cosmetic Brown

3277

Cosmetic Brown

1985

Cosmetic Brown

1654

D

& C

Red

30

Lake

%

bv Weight

53.54

10.00

10.00

10.00

5.00

3.00

2.70

1.50

1.20

1

. o o

0.60

0.30

0.20

0.10

0.34

0.32

0.18

0.02

%

bv Weight

52.49

9.80

9.80

9.80

4.90

2.94

2 65

1.47

1.18

2.95

0.59

0.29

0.20

0.10

0.33

0.31

0.18

0.02

SOURCE:

A j i nomo to

USA,

I n c . : S ug ge st ed F o r m u l a t i o n s

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 121/553

Beaury Aids 99

Prolonged Skin Moisturizer

Emulsion Pha*

Spermacet i

Beeswax

C a r n a t i o n M i n e r a l O i l

Beheny l a l coho l

P r e s e r v a t i v e s

E l a s t i n h y dr o l y sa t e

1 , 3 b u t y l e n e g l y c o l

C a r b o x y m e t h y l c h i t i n

Water

L i posome Phase :

Soy l e c i t h i n

S p h i n g o g l y c o l i p i d s

P h y t o s t e r o l

G1 y c e r i n e

V i t a m i n A

3 . 0 0 %

2 .00

15.00

5 .00

0 . 3 0

2 . o o

1 0 . 0 0

0.50

53.20

2 . 0 0

1

. o o

0 .50

5 . 0 0

Skin Lightening Composit ion

Polyoxyethylene-polyoxypropylene

c e t y l e t h e r

1.00%

S i l i c o n e o i l 2 .0 0

B l a n d o l M i n e r a l

O i l

3 . 0 0

P r o p y l e n e g l y c o l

5 . 0 0

E - A m i n o c ap r o i c a c i d 1 . 0 0

G l y c e r i n

2 . 0 0

E t h y l a l c o h o l 5 . 00

Carbomer 0 .3 0

H yd ro x yp ro p yl c e l l u l o s e 0 . 10

2-Aminomethylpropanol

0 . 1 0

A sc o rb ic a c i d d i s u l f a t e -s o d i u m s a l t

1

. o o

P r e s e r v a t i v e , a n t i o x i d a n t , f r ag r a nc e q . s .

Water

q . s .

t o 1 0 0 . 0 0

Three Layer Facial Moisturizer

Sodium p y r r o l i d o n e c a r b o x y l a t e (50 %)

G1 y c e r i n

P o l y o x y e t h y l e n e g l y c e r y l m on oo le at e

C a r n a t i o n M i n e r a l O i 1

10.00%

20.00

20.00

5 0 , O O

SOURCE: Wi tco Corp . : P e t ro l eum S p e c i a l t i e s G roup : S uggested

F o r m u l a t i o n s

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 122/553

100 Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations

Puri fying Clay Face Mask

T h is p r od uc t removes imbedded i m p u r i t i e s wh ich smoothes sk in ,

c l e a n s p o r es , b r i n g s a gl ow and removes d u l l i n g c e l l s f o r a

f i n e r t e x t u r e

s o

s k i n h as a r a d i a n t g lo w .

Phase

A :

Magnab r i t e S ( W h i t t a k e r & D)

Xan tha n Gum (K e lk o )

Water ( D i s t i l l e d )

G l yce r i n (U n i chema)

A l oe V era Gel (A c t i v e Organ i cs )

Pr op yl ene G1 y c o l (A rc o)

Tween 60 (G a l l a rd S ch l e s i ng e r )

Methy l Paraben (Su t ton)

Phase

0:

E m u ls i f y in g Wax

NF

(Koster Keunen)

C e ty l s t e a r y l A l coho l (P&G)

Ke st er Wax K-48 (S pe rm ac et i , Ko st er Keunen)

Propy l Paraben (Su t ton)

Phase C:

Cera B e l l i n a (Pg-3 Beeswax: K ost er Keunen)

Green Chromium Ox ide (Sun Ch em ica l)

T i

an: urn D i ox id e (Whi t t a k e r C&D)

Phase

D :

T i a n i um D i o x i d e (Whi t t a k e r C&D)

V a n c l a y ( V a n d e r b i l t )

4.5%

0 .2 %

63.2%

4.0%

0 . 5 %

1 . 5

0 .6%

0 .5%

5.0%

0.5%

2.0%

0.5%

4 . 5

0.5%

2.0%

4 . 0

6.0%

Procedure:

Heat and mix t i l l homogeneous, Phase A t o 80C. Heat and mix

Phase 6 t o 80C. Heat and mix Phase

C t i l l

p i g m e n t s a r e d i s p e r s e d .

Mix Phase

6

wi th Phase C, add BC t o A a t 80C un de r a g i t a t i o n .

When e m u ls i f i e d , s p r i n k l e a mixed Phase D i n t o ABC a n d c o n t i n u e

m i x i n g

t i l l

t h o r o u gh l y d i sp e rs ed , a l l o w t o co o l w h i l e m i x i n g .

Pour a t 55-60C.

A da pt io n o f f o rm u l a and i t s i n f l u e n c e o n t h e p r o du c t :

Changes i n c l a y c o n c e n t r a t i o n will r ed uc e o r i n c r e as e d r y i n g

t i m e on t h e s k i n , w hi ch a l s o changes t h e r e s p e c t i v e p u r i f y i n g

q u a l i t i e s t ow ar d t h e s k i n . M o i s t u r i z i n g ag en ts and or o t h e r

a c t i v e s c an be added t o e nhance t h e p r o p e r t i e s o f t h i s p r o d u c t .

SOURCE: Ko st er Keunen, I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 123/553

Beauty Aids

101

Slenderizing Cream with Green Tea Extract

T h i s s l e n d e r i z i n g c ream i n c o r p o r a t e s P h y t ' i o d and I o d o b i o 45.

T h is l i p o l i t i c p r o du c t de ve lo ps an e l e c t i v e m e ta b ol ic a c t i o n a t

t h e l e v e l o f a d ip o cy te s th ro ug h t h e i n h i b i t i o n o f t h e phospho-

d i es t e r a se . T h is i n h i b i t i o n b l o c k s t h e d eg ra d at io n

o f

t h e c y c l i c

AMP

which i s i nd i s pe n sa b l e t o t h e p r o t e i n k i na se a c t i v a t i o n .

The k i n a s e p r o t e i n s a c t i v a t e t h e l i p a s e w hi ch t r i g g e r a de gr ad -

a t i o n o f t h e t r i g l y c e r i d e s i n t h e a d ipose c e l l i n t h e fo rm

o f

f a t t y a c i d s and g l y c e r o l and t h e n e l m i n a t e d .

I n g r e d i e n t s :

A . Uni t ina KD-16

Eumulgin B- 1

Lexo l I P M

C a r n a t io n w h i t e

m i

n e r a l o i 1

Tocophero l

T r i s e p t P

B . Deion ized Water

T r i s e p t M

C .

I v y E x t r a c t

Seaweed Extract

Orga ni c S i 1 c o n

D . Deion ized Water

I odob i o 45

Green Tea E x t r a c t

T r i s e p t I U

E.

Deion ized Water

F. P h y t ' i o d

%

16.00

1 . o o

8.00

6.00

0.01

0 .10

48.49

0 . 2 0

3 . 0 0

2 . 0 0

1

. o o

6.00

2 . 0 0

1 . 0 0

2.00

0.20

3.00

Procedure :

A t o 8 . A t 50C, add phase C . D i s s o l v e I o d o b i o 45 i n w a t e r .

A t

40C, add phase D, E and F.

Heat phase A and B t o 75-80C. Under p r o pe r a g i t a t i o n , a d d

Amidroxy Sugar Cane Cream

I n g r e d i e n t s :

A .

Ci rami N

1

Jo j oba O i l

Sun f 1 ower

O i

1

T r i s e p t P

8. De ion ized Water

T r i s e p t M

C . Tensami 3/06

D. Tocophero l

E . Amidroxy Sugar Cane

F. G r a p e f r u i t E s s e n t i a l O i l

%

11.50

10.00

5 .00

0.10

61 - 9 4

0 . 1 5

3 .00

0 .0 1

8 .00

0 .30

Procedure:

p r o p e r a g i t a t i o n . Add ph ase C . A t 35C-40C add pha se D, phase

E

and phase F. M i x t o room t e m p e r a tu r e . A d j u s t pH t o 3 . 50 .

SOURCE : T R I - K I n d u s t r i e s , I n c . : Code

A M I

S ugges ted F o rmu l a t i ons

Heat phase A and phase B t o 70C. Add phase A t o phase B w i t h

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 124/553

1 2

Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations

Soothing Body Gel

A c l e a r , v i s co us g e l w i t h m i c r o e nc a p s u l at e d V i t a m i n

E

des igned

t o p r o v id e s k i n c o n d i t i o n i n g a nd s o ot h in g p r o p e r t i e s .

In ar ed ie nt /T ra de Name: Weiaht%

A

M i n e r a l

O i l

(and) Hydrogena ted Bu ty len e /E thy lene /

Styr ene Copolymer (and) Hydrogenated Eth y len e/

Pro pyl ene /Sty ren e Copolymer//Geahlene 750 78.82

B Cyclometh icone /Dow Corn in g 344 F l u i d 7 .00

B i s a b o l o l , s y n t h e t i c

0 .30

Methoxypropanediol/Cooling Agent No. 10

0 . 5 0

Fragrance

0 .15

Mentho l

0 . 0 3

Corn

O i l

( an d) R e t i n y l P a l m i t a t e / V i t a m i n A P a l m i t a t e

Sunf lower O i l (and) Chamomile Ext rac t /C ham om i le L S

0 . 5 0

C12-15 A1 k y l Ben zoa te/ F in so l v TN 10.00

t y p e

P I MO/ B H

0 .10

C

Macademi a Nut

O i

1 R e f in e d Macademi a Nut

O i

1 2.00

Propy lparaben 0 .10

D T ocophe ro l A ce ta te (and ) A cac i a (and ) Ge l a t i n

( an d) M i c a (a n d ) T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e ( an d) I r o n

Ox ides / /M i c roencapsu l a t ed V i t a m i n E HC487 0.50

Procedure :

Premix B . Add B t o A w h i l e m i x i n g a t mode ra te speed . H ea t

C t o 60C u n t i l c l e a r . Add C t o A . Mi x u n t i l comp l e te l y homo-

geneous. Add D ( pre-washed w i t h anhyd rous e t ha no l ) and ge n t l y

m ix i n t o A u n t i l u n i f o r m l y d is pe r se d .

SOURCE: Penreco : Suggested Fo rm u l a t i on

Anhydrous Deep Penetrating Gel

S im ple b u t e f f e c t i v e i s a way t o d e s cr i be t h i s q u i c k pene-

t r a t i n g p ro du c t . Use o f t h i s g e l

w i l l

d i m i n i s h t h e s i gn s o f

a gi ng b y c o n d i t i o n i n g and t r e a t i n g t h e s k i n w i t h a n t i - i n f l a m ma -

t o r y a g e nt s . The a c t i v i t y comes fr o m p h y t o s t e r o l s and b i o f l a v -

o n i d e s i n o ra n ge wax. These c l a s s o f c h e m i c a l s a r e a l s o s t r o n g

a n t i - o x i d a n t s w h i c h w i l l scavenge f r e e r a d i c a l s t h e r e b y p r e v e n t -

g p o t e n t i a1 p r e ma t u re a g i n g .

S i l i c o n e O i l 556 56.0%

I P P (Unichema) 5.0%

Cera A lb a la te 103 (K os te r Keunen) 14 .0%

Squa lane (P o l ye s t he r ) 10 .0%

A p r i c o t

O i l

( A r i s t a )

2.0%

Orange Wax ( K o s t e r Keunen) 10.0 %

V i t . A Pa lm i t a t e (Roche) 0 .5%

V i t . E

(BASF) 0.5%

C a n d e l i l l a Wax (K os te r Keunen) 2.0%

Procedure:

M e l t a nd m i x a l l c om po ne nts t o 70C, c o o l t o 60C a nd p o ur i n t o

c o n t a i n e r .

A d ap t i on o f f o r m u l a and i t s i n f lu e m c e on t h e p r o d u c t :

T r i g l y c e r i d e o i l s can o n l y be use s p a r in g l y , s i n c e i n c or p o r -

a t i o n a t any s i g n i f i c a n t c o nc e n tr a t i o n w i l l d e st ro y t h e g e l l i n g

p r o p e r t i e s o f t h e Hydroxy-Hexanyl-Behenyl-Beeswaxate (Cera

A l b a l a t e 1 03 ). Cera A l b a l a t e 103 i s a h i g h l y e f f e c t i v e g e l l i n g

a ge nt f o r v e ry lo w v i s c o s i t y o i l s , as i s i n d i c a t e d above.

SOURCE:

Kos te r Keunen, I n c . : Suggested Fo rm u la t i o n

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 125/553

BeautyAids 1 3

Stick Type Lip Gloss

Mater 1 s

:

1 . Oz ok e r i t e W h it e 170

2 . C a n d e l i l l a Wax L i g h t R e f i n e d

3 .

Carnauba Wax Ye l l o w

U S P

#1

4. Ceraphy l

50

5 Lanogene

6 . Aceto l 1706

7 . F l e x r i c i n 9

8 .

Bentone Gel CAO

9. Lexol PG 8/10

1 0 . I s op r o p y l M y r i s t a t e

11. Pr op yl Paraben

12.Tenox 4

13 .P igment Concen t ra te*

14 .F rag rance

*P igment Concent ra te :

C as to r O i l

D&C Red #21 Aluminum Lake

Co sm et ic Brown C-33 115

% b y

Wei q h t

7 . 5

9 . 5

2 . 5

3 . 0

5 . 0

1 1 . 5

1 0 . 0

27.5

12 .8

5 . 0

0 . 1

0 . 1

5 .0

0 . 5

75.00

15.00

10 .00

M a n u f a c t u r i n g D i r e c t i o n s :

1 . Weigh i t e m s 1 t h r o u g h 12 i n t o a s t a i n l e s s s t e e l j a c k e t e d

k e t t l e . Heat t o

8 5 C

u n t i l m e lt ed c l e a r .

2 . B r i n g t empera tu re down t o 80C. Add and m i x i n i t e m 13 us i n g

homomixer a t medium speed. Mi x f o r 10 min ute s a t 80C.

3 . Con t in ue mi x i ng a t medium speed, l ower tempe ra tu re t o 70C, and

add i t e m 1 4 . Remove h e a t and s t i r s l o w l y u n t i l c o n ge a le d , o r

pour i n t o t r a y s .

s lo w a g i t a t i o n ( a v o id a i r e nt ra pm en t) .

N ot e: F o r a s h in y p o l i s h e d s u r f a c e on t h e l i p - g l o s s , t h e

s t i c k s s h o ul d be s u r f a c e f l am e d .

4 . When ca s t i n g , m e l t and pour mo l ten mass i n t o mo ld a t 75C w i t h

P igment C oncen t ra te P rep a r a t i on

1 . W eigh d r y powder and m ix t o t h e cas to r o i l us i ng a s low speed

2 . G iv e t h i s c o n c e n t r a t e tw o p asse s o v e r a 3 r o l l e r m i l l a t room

SOURCE: Rheox, I n c . : Formu la T S - 2 8 6

H ob ar t t y p e m i x t u r e u n t i l u n i f o rm .

t e m p e r a t u r e .

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 126/553

1 4

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Thickening Mascara

T h i s i s a l o n g w e ar in g , n o n - f l a k i n g a nd t h i c k e n i n g mascara

f or mu la . T h i s f o r m u l a t i o n a p p l i e s e f f o r t l e s s l y , s ep ar at es l as h e s

w e l l and does no t smear o r c lump . The f o rm u l a t i on does no t f l a k e

d u r i n g wear a nd h as t h e added b e n e f i t o f w a sh in g o f f e a s i l y

w i t ho u t t h e need o f s pe c i a l eye make-up removers o r ha rsh

s c r u b b i n g .

A . Deion ized Water

56.95

Col 1o i d a l Magnesi um A1 umi num

S i

1 a t e (Veegum

HV) 1 .8 0

H y d r o x y e t h y l c e l l u l o s e (QP 15,000-H) 2.70

Xanthan Gum (K e l t r o l T ) 4.45

Pigment (Pur Oxy Yel low BC and Pur Oxy Black

BC)

8.95

Meth y lpara ben (Lexg ard M) 0.18

Propy lparaben (Lexgard

P)

0 . 0 9

B. PVP/VA Copolymer ( L u v i s k o l 73W)

I m i dazo l i ny l U rea (Ge rma l l 115)

Tet rasod ium

EDTA

(Hamp-ene Na4)

10.00

0.20

0 . 0 8

C . Gl yce ry l S tea ra te (Lexemu l

515) 2.25

Beeswax NF (S&P White N F 422P) 5.25

G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e ( an d) PEG-100 Steara te (Lexemul

561) 3.50

G1 y c e r i n /D i e t hy le ne G1 yc o l /Ad i pa te Cross pol ymer

(Lexorez 100) 3.50

S o r b i t a n S t e a r a t e N F ( A r l a c e l

6 0 )

0.10

Procedure :

1 .

Combine “ A “ e xc ep t f o r t h e p ig me nt s and h e a t t o

80-85C.

When

t e m p e r a tu r e i s r e a ch e d, h om og en ize m i x t u r e s l o w l y a d d in g

p igments .

2 . Combine “ C ” and h ea t t o 80-85C. S l o w ly add t o ” A “ .

3 . M i x

”A C ”

f o r f i v e mi nu te s . Add l r B ” t o ” A C ” and homogenize

f o r f i f t e e n m i n u te s on medium speed w h i l e c o o l i n g .

4 .

A t

60C t r a n s f e r b at ch t o t a n k e qu ip pe d w i t h a d o u b l e - a c t i o n

s id e- sw ee p a g i t a t o r . M i x an d c o o l t o room t e m p e r a tu r e .

5. A dj us t s o l i d s l e v e l t o 53.2%+-0.1%. S o l i d s were r u n i n a

11OC

oven f o r one hou r .

SOURCE: I n o l e x Ch em ica l Co, : F o r m u l a t i o n 383-198

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 127/553

Beauty Aids

105

Thigh Sl imm ing Cream

The f o l l o w i n g f o r m ul a i s used f o r d e v e lo p in g t h i g h s l im m i ng

and a n t i - c e l l u l i t e creams. The f i n a l f o r m u l a t i o n i s 0 .50%

Nat ura l Cocoa E x t r a c t and 0 .50% Caf fe in e wh ich a r e encap su la te d

i n u n i l a m e l l a r and m u l t i l a m e l l a r l ip o so m es . They a r e f o r m u l a t e d

t o t a r g e t subcutaneous f a t t i s s u e .

A

s i m i l a r f o rm u la can

u t i 1 e ami n op hy l e a s t h e a c t i v e i n g r e d i e n t .

I n a r e d i e n t :

A . Deion ized Water

Carbopol 940

G l y c e r i n

Ke la te 220

T r i s e p t M

Tween 80

Dow C o r n i n g 2501

Dow Corning 193

B .

L a n e t t e 1 6

Kukui Nut O i l

Emersol 132

B u t y l S t e a r a t e

B u ty l a te d H yd roxy T ol uene

Emerest 2717

Lexol I P P

Dow C or ni n g 200 (5 0 c p s )

C . T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e

Deion ized Water

%

69.06

0 .40

1 . 5 0

0 . 1 0

0.20

1

. o o

1 . 5 0

1 . o o

1.25

3 .50

2 . 0 0

0 . 5 0

0.10

1 .50

1 . o o

1 . o o

0 . 8 0

5 .00

D .

T r i s t a t

I U

0 . 2 5

E . Liposome of 6% Cocoa Ex t r a c t 8 6% C a f f e i ne C oncen t ra te 8 .34

Procedure:

U si ng mo de ra te p r o p e l l o r a g i t a t i o n , s p i n k l e C arb op ol 940

i n t o Phase

A

and mi x u n t i l f u l l y h y d r a t e d . Add r e m a i n in g Phase

A i n g r ed i e n t s . H eat Phase A and Phase B t o 65C-7OC. Wi th pr op -

e l l o r a g i t a t i o n , add Phase B t o Phase A . When uniform, add

Phase C . A t 55C-60C, add Phase

D .

Add Phase E a t 35C, m i x i n g

s l ow l y u n t i

1

u n i f o r m .

SOURCE: TRI-K I n d u s t r i e s , I n c . : Code B i o z o n e

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 128/553

1 6

Cosmetic

and

Toiletry Formulations

Ultra Rich Hand and

B o d y

Nourisher

Veegum U l t r a t h i c k e n s and s t a b i l i z e s t h i s creamy, o i l - i n - w a t e r

e m u l s io n p r e p a r e d u s i n g a n o n i o n i c e m u l s i f i e r s ys te m. I t

f e a t u re s t h e " d ry t ou ch " a p p l i c a t i o n p r o p e r t i e s t y p i c a l o f

f o rmu l as co n t a i n i ng Veegum. P a lm i t oy 1 h yd ro l yz ed an i mal p r o t e i n

f u n c t i o n s as an a n t i - i r r i t a n t t h a t complements t h e g ro up o f

o i l phase e m o l l i e n t s . Veegum U l t r a w h i t e ns and b r i g h t e n s t h i s

c o sm e t ic f o r m u l a and a d j u s t s t h e pH t o a p p r ox i ma t e t h a t o f

no rma l s k i n .

I n a r e d i e n t : % bv W t .

Veegum U l t r a (Magnesi um A1 umi num S i 1

i

a t e )

1.50

Dei on i zed Water

G1 y c e r i n

Aloe Vera Gel

(2)

P a l m i t o y l H y d r o ly z e d An im al P r o t e i n ( 3 )

C e t y l E s t e r s (4)

G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e SE ( 5 )

I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e

S o r b i t a n P a l m i t a t e

P o l y s o r b a t e 40

P r e s e r v a t i v e , F r a g r a n c e

(2)

V e r a g e l L i q u i d

(3)

L i p a c i d e PCO

(4) Crodamol SS

( 5 )

Kessco GMS-24SE

79.00

3 . 0 0

2.00

1

. o o

1 . o o

2 .50

5 . 0 0

2.25

2.75

q . s .

Procedure:

H ea t t h e w a te r t o 55C. Add Veegum U l t r a s l o w l y w h i l e m i x i ng

a t 700 rpm w i t h a p r o p e l l e r s t i r r e r . I n cr e a se m ix er t o 1500-1700

rpm and m i x f o r 30 m i nu tes w h i l e ma i n ta i n i n g t empera tu re a t 55C.

Add B t o A and m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . H ea t

C

t o 6OC and add t o ( A

and

6 ) .

Mi x

( A , B

and C) f o r 30 m i nu tes . A vo i d a i r en t rapmen t.

Slow m i x e r t o

1000

rpm and mix w h i l e c o o l i n g t o 35C. Add D and

m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . Package.

P ro d uc t C h a r a c t e r i s t i c s :

V i s c o s i t y :

1900-2500

cps

pH: 5 .3+-0.2

Comments:

t h e deve lopment o f new produ c ts o r t h e improvement o f e x i s t i n g

ones.

SOURCE:

R . T .

V a n d e r b i l t

Co . ,

I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n

No. 4 4 7

T h i s p r o t o t y p e f o r m u la i s de si gn e d t o s e r v e as a g u id e f o r

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 129/553

BeautyAids 1 7

Vegetable Based Moisturizing Cream

I n s r e d i e n t s :

P a r t

A :

Super r e f i n e d alm ond o i l

' ICrodesta" F10

"Syncrowax" HGLC

P a r t 0:

' I H

y

d os

o y I 2

00 SF

' *Crodesta" F110

So bo

f

7

0

ltGermaben" 11

"Veragel

I

200

De i on iz ed Water

P e rcen t

20.0

3.0

2.0

1 . o

3.0

5.0

1 . o

0.5

6 4 . 5

Procedure:

Combine Part A . Heat t o 7OCt-2C. Combine P a r t 0 . Heat t o

7OCt-2C. Combine P a r t B t o P ar t A unde r a g i t a t i o n . C oo l and

f i l l o f f .

SOURCE: D r , Madi

s

L a b o r a t o r i e s I n c . : Sugges ted Formu la t i on

Liquifying Cream Makeup Remover

P enreco M i n e ra l O i l #9

P e t r o l a t u m A l b a

Rosswax 60-0254

Ross

C e res in e Wax 1160/7

Beta Carotene 30%

Fragrance

P r e s e r v a t i v e

%

51 .E8

32.8

9 . 1

7 . 0

0.02

q . s .

q . s .

Procedure:

170F w i t h good a g i t a t i o n . When f u l l y m ix ed c o o l , add t h e r e s t

o f

t h e i n g r e d i e n t s and pa ck a t a b ou t

130F.

SOURCE: Frank 0.

Ross

Co., I n c . : S ug ge st ed F o r m u l a t i o n

M e l t i n g r e d i e n t s one t h r u f o u r i n a steam j ac ke te d k e t t l e t o

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 130/553

1 8 Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations

Water Resistant Liquid Foundation

The r e s u l t i n g p r o d uc t i s a t h i n l o t i o n t h a t f e e l s l i k e a f i n e

powder.

?&&

A .

Dei on i zed Water 69.25

C o l l o i d a l Magnesium A luminum S i l i c a t e (Veegum) 1 . o o

Xanthan Gum ( K e l t r o l T ) 0.50

Methy lparaben (Lexgard M ) 0.20

P ropy l ene G l yco l N F 5.00

Tr ie tha no lam in e NF

QS

B .

Oc ty l S t ea ra te (Lexo l EHS) 8 .50

Gl yc er y l S t ea ra te (and) PEG-100 S t ea ra te (Lexemul 561) 3 .50

G1 y c e r i n /D i e t hy le ne G1 yc o l /Ad i pa te Cross pol ymer

(Lexorez

100)

2 . 0 0

Propy lparaben (Lexgard

P )

0.05

C . Talc (J -13-AT)

I r o n O x id es ( A T S e r i e s )

5

5

Procedure:

1 . Combine A h e a t i n g

t o

80-85C. Add a l l i ng re d i e n t s excep

2. Combine

B

and he a t t o 80C.

Veegum and xanth an gum. Dry b le nd th e gums and s i f t i n .

00

00

t h e

3. Move A g 3 t o homogeni zer . T u rn t o a l ow speed.

4. Add

B

t o A , homogen ize a t l ow speed f o r 5 m inu tes . Beg in

5 .

Add

C

t o lfAB ",homogenize a t l ow speed f o r 10 mi nu tes

o r

6 . Remove f r om homogeni ze r and t r a n s fe r t o p r o p e l l e r m i x e r .

7. A t 45-50C a d j u s t pH t o 7.5 -7 .7

w i t h

TEA. A d j u s t f o r w a te r

l o s s

Formula 383-188

c o o l i g

.

u n t i l p a r t i c l e s a re d is pe rs ed .

Lip Gloss

The r e s u l t i n g p r od u c t i s a ca ke l i p g lo s s wh ic h c o u ld be h o t

p ou red i n t o a pan o r d i r e c t l y i n t o a

SAN

co mp act. The l i p g l o s s

a p p l i e s e a s i l y . T h i s p ro d uc t

i s

v e r y wear r e s i s t a n t and e x h i b i t s

a h i g h g l o s s due t o L e xo r ez 1 00 .

C as to r

O i l

NF ( C r y s t a l 0) 60.90

Beeswax NF (S&P W h i t e 422P) 10 .0 0

Lano l i n Anhydrous 1.30

C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e ( L e x o l GT-865) 1 4 .8 0

S t e a r y l S t e a r a t e ( L i p o n at e

SS)

4.30

G l y c e r i n / D i e t h y l e n e G l y c o l / A d i p a t e C ro ss po ly me r

(Lexorez 100)

8 . 7 0

Procedure:

1 . Combine i ng re d i en t s , h ea t t o 75C. M i x s l o w l y

so

t h a t a i r i s

Formula LP-100

SOURCE: I n o l e x Chemi cal Co. : Suggested F ormu l a t i ons

n o t en t rapped . 2 . Pour a t 50C.

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 131/553

Section V

Creams

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 132/553

110 Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations

All

Purpose Cream

( 0 ) L i q u i d P a r a f f i n

( 7 0 )

Squal ane

N i

k k o l WCB

G l y c e r y l M o n os t ea r a te ( S e l f Emu1 s i y i ng Type)

C e t y l A l c o h o l

P o l y o x y e t h y l e n e ( 2 0 ) G l y c e r y l M o n o s te a r at e

S o r b i t a n M o n o s t e a r a t e

(W) A j i d e w N-50

So rb i o1 (70%)

Water

P r e s e r v a t i e

Procedure :

1 .

Heat

(0 )

and ( W ) t o 80C.

2 .

Add (W) t o

( 0 )

s l ow l y w i t h a g i t a t i o n .

3 . Cool t o 40C w i t h s t i r r i n g .

pH: 5 . 6

All

Purpose Cream

( 0 ) L i q u i d P a r a f f i n

( 7 0 )

P a r a f f i n Wax (mp 42-44C)

C e t y l A l c o h o l

N i k k o l WCB

C e t y l A l c o h o l

T ocophe ro l Ace ta te

A1 1 a n t o i

n

S o r b i t a n M o n o s t e a r a t e

P o l y o x y e t h y l e n e ( 2 0 ) S o r b i t a n M on o ol ea te

( W )

Aj idew N-50

Propy l ene G l yco l

Water

P r e s e r v a t i v e

Procedure:

1 . Hea t

(0 )

and ( W ) t o 80C.

2 .

Add W ) t o

( 0 )

s l o w l y w i t h a g i t a t i o n .

3 . Cool t o 40C w i t h s t i r r i n g .

pH: 5.4

SOURCE: A j i n o m o to USA, I n c . : Sugges ted F o rm u l a t i on s

Wt

1 0 . 0

4 . 0

5 . 0

8 . 0

4.0

2 . 7

1 . 3

2 . 0

2 . 0

61

. O

q . s .

Wt$b

21.6

8 . 0

5 . 0

1 0 . 0

4 . 0

0 . 2

0 . 2

2 . 0

3 . 0

3 . 0

2 .0

45.0

q . s .

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 133/553

Creams

111

All Purpose Cream

(0 )

Am i te r LGOD

Squa l ane

Spermacet i

P ropy l ene G l yc o l M onos teara te

P o l y o x y e t h y l e n e

( 2 0 )

G l y c e r y l M o n o s t e a r a t e

G l y c e r y l M o no s te a ra te ( S e l f Emul s i y i ng Type)

So rb i t an M onos tea ra te

(W) Ajidew N - 5 0

Sorb i o 1 (70%)

Sodium Carbonate (10% aq s o l n )

Water

P r e s e r v a t i v e

Procedure:

1. Heat 0) nd (W) t o 8OC.

2 . Add ( W ) t o

0)

l o w l y w i t h a g i t a t i o n .

3 . Cool t o 40C w i t h s t i r r i n g .

pH: 5 . 5

Vanish ing Cream

(0 )

S t e a r i c A c id

L i q u i d P a r a f f i n (#70)

I s o p r op y l M y ri s t a t e

Hyd rogena ted Lano l i n

N i

k k o l WCB

G1 y c e r y l Monostearate (Sel f Emul s i y i ng Type)

P o l y o x y e t h y l e n e ( 2 0 ) C e t y l E t h e r

(W) Ajidew

N-50

Propy l ene G l y c o l

G l y c e r i n

T r i et ha no l ami ne

Water

P r e s e r v a t i v e

Procedure:

1 . Hea t 0) nd (W) t o 85-86C.

2. Add ( W ) to (0 ) s l o w ly w i t h a g i t a t i o n

3 . Cool s l o w l y t o

30C

w i t h s t i r r i n g .

p H :

7 .2

W B

1 0 . 0

9.0

2.0

4.0

3 .0

1 0 . 0

1 . 5

3 . 0

4 . 0

0 .1

5 3 . 1

0 .3

Wt%

8 . 0

3 .0

3.0

2.0

2.0

1 . 3

1 . 7

3 .0

3 . 0

3 .0

0 . 5

6 9 . 5

q . s .

SOURCE: A j i n o m o t o USA,

I n c . : S ug ge st ed F o r m u l a t i o n s

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 134/553

112 Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations

All Purpose

Dry

Skin Cream

Formula:

Phase A :

Glucquat 100

Dei o n i zed Water

Phase B :

G1

ucam P-20 D i s t e a r a t e

G l u c a t e DO

Promulgen D

Ace t u 1an

C e t a l

C a r n a t i o n M i n e r a l O i 1

C e t y l P a l m i t a t e

Per fume and Preserva t i ve

Wt.

1.0

8 3 . 0

2 .0

0 . 5

4.5

2 . 0

1

. o

5 . 0

1 . o

q . s .

Procedure:

w i t h ad eq ua te a g i t a t i o n . Combine B i n g r e d i e n t s and h e a t t o 80C

w i t h p r o p e l l e r m i x i n g . S lo w ly add A t o B and m ix u n t i l u n i f o r m .

When m a t e r i a l b e g i n s t o t h i c k e n d u r i n g c o o l i n g , change t o s l o w

s w e e p a g i t a t i o n .

D i s s o l v e G l uc q ua t 100 i n t o d e i o n i z e d w a t e r and h e a t t o 80C

Dry Skin Cream

Water

P r o t o p e t 1s

D ry F l o S t a r c h

S i l i c o n e 3 44

F i n s o l v

TN

C e t y l A l c o h o l

Sodium S t e a r y l 2 L a c t a l a t e

P ropy l pa raben

M ethy l pa raben

Carbomer 934

T r i e tha no l ami ne

F rag rance & C o l o r

W t . 9 6

61

. 37

20.00

5 . 0 0

5 .00

5 . 0 0

1 - 0 0

1

. o o

0.15

0 . 1 0

0.30-0.50

QS t o N e u t r a l i z e

QS

SOURCE: Wi tco Co rp . : Pe t ro l eum S p e c i a l t i e s Group : Suggested

Formul a t i o n s

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 135/553

Creams 113

Almond Vanishing Cream with Collagen

Phase 1:

Rosswax 63-041 2

Rosswax 573

Am er l a te

P

Emerest 2314

Emerest 2316

G l yce ry l M onos tea ra te SE

Almond

O i

1 L i povol ALM

Phase 2 :

Emery 916 Pure Gl yc er in e

Water

T r i e thano l ami ne

Phase 3 :

Col l a s o l ( C o l la g e n )

Phase 4:

Germaben

I 1

%

5 . 9

8 . 9

0 . 7

0 .7

0 .7

0.37

1

. o

6 . 0

13 .46

0 . 9

0 .37

1

. o

Procedure:

t o a t em p e ra t u re o f 170F w i t h a g i t a t i o n . When t h e t em p e ra t u re i s

r ea ch ed , add Phase ( 1 ) t o Phase ( 2 ) w i t h c o n t i n u e d a g i t a t i o n .

N ex t add Phase ( 3 ) and t h e n Phase ( 4 ) b o t h w i t h a g i t a t i o n , c o o l

t o 120F and package.

I n s e p ar a t e steam j a c k e t e d k e t t l e s h e a t b o t h Phase ( 1 ) and ( 2 )

Dry Skin Cream

P a r t ( A ) :

Modul an

Amerchol L-101

I s o p r o py l M y r i s t a t e

Sod ium S teara te Pure

G l yc e r y l Mono S t ea ra te

SE

Ross Sp er ma ce ti Wax Sub. 573

Ross

J o j o b a O i 1

P a r t ( B ) :

Water

Emery 916 Glycer ine Pure

T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e

P a r t

(C):

P r e s e r v a t i v e

P a r t

( D )

:

Fragrance

%

3 . 7

4 .2

2 . 7

1 0 . 0

1 . 8

5 . 5

1 . 8

59.7

9 . 2

1 . 4

q . s .

q . s .

Procedure:

a g i t a t i o n . When t e mp e r at u re i s re ac he d, m ix P a r t ( A ) t o P a r t

( B )

and c o o l . Package i n c o n t a i n e r s a t b e l ow 1 20F.

SOURCE:

Framk

8 .

Ross

C o . ,

I n c . : S ug ge st ed F o r m u l a t i o n s

M e l t P a r t ( A ) and P a r t ( B ) i n s e p a r a te v e s s e l s t o 170F un de r

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 136/553

114 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Alpha Hydroxy Acid Cream

R e s u l t i n g p r o d u c t i s a l i g h t c ream t h a t c o u l d be di sp en se d

f r om a f l e x i b l e t u b e o r a j a r . The a lp h a h y dr o xy a c i d (AHA)

c on ta in ed i n t h i s f o r mu la i s b u f f e r e d l a c t i c a c i d w i t h a use

l e v e l o f a p p ro x i m a te l y 10%.

A .

Deion ized Water

Methy lparaben (Lexgard M )

2,4 -D ich lo ro benzy l A lcoho l (Myac ide SP)

G l y c e r i n

USP

(99.7%)

L a c t i c A c i d USP (88%)

%

65.80

0 .20

0 .20

3.00

0.60

B. G1 y c e r y l S t ea ra te (and) S tearami do e t hy l D ie th y l ami ne

(Lexe mul AR) 2. 50

Gl yc er y l S t ea ra te (and ) PEG-100 S t ea ra te (Lexemul 561) 4 .00

Stear ami do pr op yl Dim eth yl ami ne (Lexami ne S-13) 1. 00

Ce ty l A lc oho l (Ado1 52)

1

. D O

C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e ( L ex o l GT-865) 6.00

I s o b u t y l S t e a r a t e ( L ex o l

B S )

2.00

Propy lparaben (Lexgard P)

0 .1 0

C . L a c t i c A c i d (88%)

Sodium Lactate (Purasa l S /SP

60%)

5.60

8 .00

Procedure :

1 . Combine sec t ion A'I he a t i ng t o 75-8OC. Use p r o p e l l e r m i xe r

f o r a g i t a t i o n .

2 .

Combine sec t ion E q t h e a t i n g t o 80-85C. A g i t a t e s l o w l y w i t h

a p r o p e l l e r m i xe r .

3 . When sect ions A & B ar e homogeneous and a t t h e des i g-

na ted t em pera tu res s l o w l y add l '0 t o A . M ix w i t h r a p i d

a g i t a t i o n f o r 5 mi nu te s th e n b e g in c o o l i n g .

4 . Reduce m i x i n g s peed d u r i n g c o o l i n g t o p r e v e n t v o r t e x i n g .

5 . A t 55-60C, add s e c t i o n C t o s e ct io n s A B .

6 . When th e ba tc h i s homogeneous and a t 35-45C a d j u s t f o r

w a t e r l o s s .

7 . M i x t o 30C.

8 .

A d j us t f i n a l

pH

t o 3 .5 0- 3. 75 w i t h L a c t i c A c i d o r Sodium

L a c t a t e , a s r e q u i r e d .

P h y s i c a l P r o p e r t i e s :

V i s c o s i t y :

10,000

cPs 24C (B ro o k f i e l d

RVT,

T A 10 rpm) .

pH: 3 .5 24C

24 hour sample.

SOURCE: I n o l e x Chemical Co. : F o r m u l a t i o n 398-79-3

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 137/553

Creams 115

Alpha Hydroxy Acid Cream with 10% Aloe Vera Gel

Phase

A:

Dei o ni zed Water

P r o p y le n e G l y c o l

Xanthan Gum (T i c a x a n )

Phenoxyethanol

Phase B:

Squalane

N F

PPG-12/SMDI (Polyolprepolymer-2)

Hydrogenated Phosphol i d (L ec i no1 S-1 0)

C a p r y l i c / C ap r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e ( M i g l y o l 812)

S t e a r i c A c id

C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c / S t e a r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e ( S o f t i s a n 378)

Cyc lometh icone (DC 344 F l u i d )

Dimeth icone ( DC 200 F l u i d ; 50 v i s . )

Ce te ar y l A l co ho l (and) Cet ear eth -20 (Cosmowax

J )

Gl yc e r y l S tea r a te (and) PEG-100 S tea ra te (A r l ac e l 165 )

S t ea r e th - 2 ( B r i j 72)

Phase C:

L a c t i c Ac id , 88% ( B i o l a c )

Phase D :

Ter ry A loe Vera Ge l , l X , Dec

Pro py l ene G1 y c o l (and) D i azo1 i n y l Urea (and)

Methy lparab en ( and) Pr op ylp ar ab en (Germaben 11)

%

50.45

4.00

0.50

0 .30

4.00

3.00

1 . o o

5 .00

2.50

2.00

4.00

1 - 0 0

2.00

1 .50

0.50

7.00

10.00

1

D O

1.

S l ow l y d i s p er s e Xanthan gum t o w at er w h i l e s t i r r i n g v i g o r -

o u s l y . C o nt in u e m i x i n g a t r a p i d speed u n t i l c o m pl e te l y

d i spe rsed and hyd ra ted . Heat t o 70C. Add Pr opy len e Gl yc o l

f o l l ow ed by Phenoxye thano l.

2 . Combine a l l i n g r e d i e n t s i n Phase B . W h i l e s l o w l y m i x i n g

commence hea t i ng t o 70-75C. Con t i nue m i x i ng u n t i l un i f o r m .

3 .

S l ow l y i n t r od uc e Phase

B

i n t o Phase A . C o nt in u e t o mix f o r

5-1 0 m i n u t e s

.

4. C oo l t o 40C w h i l e c o n t i n u i n g t o m ix . W i t h b a t c h a t 35C, add

Phase C and c o n t i n u e t o m i x .

5. Combine a l l Phase D i ng r e d ie n t s , s t i r r i n g u n t i l d i s s o l v e d .

Add t o b a t c h w h i l e m i x i n g u n t i l u n i f o r m . Cool t o 25C.

SOURCE: T e r r y L a b o r a t o r i e s , I n c . : S ug ge st ed F o r m u l a t i o n s

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 138/553

116 Cosm etic and Toiletry Forniulations

Aloe Vera Night Cream

I n a r e d i e n t s :

A . Deion ized Water

Te tr as o di um EDTA

Pr op yl ene G1 y c o l

Methy lparaben

B .

Ce ty l A l co ho l (Ado1 52 N F )

C e t e a r y l A l c o h ol ( an d) P o l y s o r b a t e 60 (and)

Po l yso rba te -40

S o r b i t a n P a l m i t a t e

M i n e r a l

O i

1 (and ) La no l i n A l coho l

( R i

t a c h o l )

M i n e r a l

O i l

A l o e Ve ra L i p o i d 1

:

1

Pe t ro l a tum (and ) L an o l i n (and ) Sodium

PCA

(and)

D i met hi cone 200

BHA

Propy lparaben

PEG-150 S te ar a t e (and) S teare th -20 (R i t ac ho l 1000)

Po l yso rba te 85 (R i t ade rm )

Percen t

49.225

0.075

3.50

0.20

2.00

2.00

2.00

0.70

1

.oo

7.00

3 .00

3 .00

1 . o o

0 . 1 0

0 . 1 0

C .

Sodium Borate 0 . 2 0

D .

Aloe Verage l

F ragrance

Germal l

I 1

20.50

0 .15

0.25

Procedure :

Heat Phase A and Phase

B

s e pa r a te l y w i t h a g i t a t i o n t o 75C.

Add Phase A t o Phase B and mi x 30 mi nu te s. Add Phase C and cool

w i t h a g i t a t i o n u n t i l t e m pe r a t u r e r e a c he s 50C. Add Phase D and

a g i t a t e u n t i l t e mp e r at u re r ea ch es room t e mp e r at u re .

Night Cream

I n a r e d i e n t s :

A .

Water

Promulgen

D

T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e 9 9

Methy lparaben

Propy lparaben

A l oe V er ag el L i p o i d

G l y c o l S t e a r a t e

M i n e r a l O i l

Magnesi urn S t e a r a t e

B . S t e a r i c A c i d

Procedure :

shu t o f f a g i t a t i o n .

H e at p ha se s t o

BOC.

Add phase

B

t o

A .

M ix u n t i l

4 0 C .

SOURCE: D r . M a d i s L a b o r a t o r i e s I n c . : S ug ge ste d F o r mu l at

Pe rcen t

q . s .

1

. o

1 .2

0.35

0 . 1

8.0

6.0

3.5

10.0

0 . 5

and

ons

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 139/553

Creams 117

Anti -Cellulite Cream

A c t i v e s s p e c i f i c a l l y d ev elo pe d t o r e du ce t h e s i g n s and

q u a n t i t y o f c e l l u l i t e a re i n c or po ra te d i n t o t h i s q u i ck pene-

t r a t i n g , n on -g re as y cre am . The use o f C er a A l b a l a t e 1 03 a l l o w s

f o r a s t a b l e e m ul si on u s i n g a h i g h c o n c e n t r a t i o n o f l ow

v i s c o s i t y o i l s . Orange Wax i n t h i s f o rm ul a i s a l s o an a c t i v e

due t o s i m i l a r c h e m i s t r y . The c l a i m s f o r C en te rc he m' s a n t i -

c e l l u l i t e pr o d u c t s a r e based on g ro up s o f c h em i ca l s w h ic h

a re a l s o f ound i n Orange Wax, f o r examp le ; S t e r o i d s ,

F lavonones, F la vo no ls and Cinnamates.

Phase A :

C e r a A l b a l a t e

103

(Koster Keunen)

G l yc o l S t ea ra te (Kos te r Keunen)

G l yc e r o l M onos tea rate (Henke l )

Orange Wax ( K o s te r Keunen)

I so p r op y l Pa l m i t a t e (Un ichema)

S i l i c o n e

O i l

556 (Dow)

Em u ls i f y i ng Wax N F (Koster Keunen)

Ceteareth-20 (Croda)

Euca l yp tus O i l (Crompton & Knowles)

C a p r y l i c / C ap r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e ( B er n el )

Phase B :

W ater ( D i s t i 1 ed )

Carbopol 940 (BF Go od r ic h)

G lycer in (Un ichema)

P ro n al an A n t i c e l l u l i t e (Centerchem)

I v y E x t r a c t ( Al ba n M u l l e r )

Seaweed Extract (Centerchem)

Tr ie thanolamine (Dow)

A lo e Vera Gel (A lo e Cor p . )

Germaben I 1 ( S u t t o n )

3.0%

4.0%

3.0%

4.0%

2.0%

2 . 0 %

2 .0%

1.5%

0.5%

2.5%

50.1%

0 . 2

3 . 0 %

10 .0

5 .0%

5.0%

0.2%

1.0%

1 .O%

Procedure:

Em ul s i f y by add in g Phase A t o Phase B . Add t h e p r e s e r v a t i v e a nd

m ix w h i l e c o o l i n g . Pour i n t o c o n t a i n e r s a t 40C.

A da pt io n o f f or mu la and i t s i n f l u e n c e on t h e p r o d u c t :

a c t i v e s w hic h pr od uc e s i m i l a r c l a i m s . The use o f o t h e r p l a n t

o i l s w i l l n o t d r a m a t ic a l l y a l t e r t h e f i n i s h e d p r o d uc t . Worth

m e n t i o n i n g i s t h e a b i l i t y o f O range Wax t o mask t h e aroma

o f

t h e e u c a l yp t us o i l p r od u c in g a p ro d u ct o f l ow f r ag r a nc e .

SOURCE: Kos te r Keunen, I n c . : Suggested For mu la t i on

Heat Phase A t o 75 t o 8 0 C . Heat and mix Phase

B

t o 75C.

T he re i s room f o r c ha ng in g t h i s p r o d u ct b y t h e u se o f o t h e r

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 140/553

118

Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations

Antiwrinkle Daycream

I n q r e d i e n t s :

A ) Cremophor A6

Cremophor A25

Cu t i na

GMS

C e ty l a1 coho1

L u v i t o l EHO

P a r a f f i n O i l

B i s a b o l o l

S i l i c o n o i l A K

500

Phenoni

p

Parso l 1789

Parso l MCX

Propy7eng l yco l

P h y t a l u r o n a t e

Heat t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f f a t t y p hase

A )

t o 70C.

He at t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f w a t e r p ha se 8 ) t o 70C.

Under s t i r r i n g add ph ase B) t o pha se

A ) ,

c oo l t o

5 0 C ,

Then add phases C ) and D ) one a f t e r a no th er and s t i r c o l d .

B) Water demi n e r a l ed

Euxy l K-200

C )

F i o b r o s i de

D)

F rag rance /Ch i a ra

0/238927

Procedure:

homogenize and co o l t o 30C.

A p p l i c a t i o n N o . A 006.8/02.93

%

w / w

2 , o o

2,oo

3,OO

3,OO

5,OO

5,OO

0,20

0,50

0,30

1

, o o

2 , o o

61,50

0,20

4 , OO

5,OO

5 O O

0,30

Daycream

I n q r e d i e n t s :

A ) Tween 60

A r l a c e l 6 0

Cet

y

1a 1coho 1

S t e a r i c A c id

I s o p r o p y l m y r i s t a t e

M i g l y c o l

812

Parsol 1789

P a r s o l

MCX

Phenoni p

8 ) Water demi n e r a l i ed

G1 y c e r i n

I m i d a z o l i d i n y l Urea

S e r i c i n

Immucel l

C ) Fragra ncs /T im buk tu O/lB6901

Procedure;

Heat t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f f a t t y p hase A) t o 70C.

H eat t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f w a t e r phase

B )

t o 75C.

Under s t i r r i n g add phase 6 ) t o phase

A ) ,

coo l t o 50C,

Then add phase

C)

and s t i r c o l d .

homogenize and co ol t o 30C.

A p p l i c a t i o n No. A 005.E/11.94

SOURCE: Pentapharm Ltd, : Sugges ted Formu la t i ons

% w /w

3,OO

2,oo

3,OO

6,OO

10,oo

5,OO

1

,oo

2,oo

0,50

56,QO

4 , O O

0,30

3,OO

s i 0 0

0,30

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 141/553

Creams 119

Benzoyl Peroxide Cream

M a t e r i a l s :

P a r t

A :

1 . D . I . Water

2 . G l y c e r i n e

3 . Bentone

MA

r h e o l o g i c a l a d d i t i v e

4 . P r e s e r v a t i v e

P a r t B :

1. Gly ce ry l Monoste arate , SE

2 . S t e a r y l A l c o h o l

3 . I s o c e t y l S te a r a t e

4 . P r e s e r v a t i v e

P a r t

C :

1. Dei on i zed Water

2. Benzoy l Perox ide

% bv Weiah t

71 . O O

3 .00

2 . 0 0

0.25

3.00

1

. o o

1 . o o

0 .10

11.65

7 .00

Procedure:

1 . M i x

D.I.

W at er , g l y c e r i n e an d p r e s e r v a t i v e . H ea t t o 60C.

2. Add Bentone MA s l o w l y and mi x w h i l e h e a t i n g t o 80C.

3 . I n a s e p a r at e v e s s e l , m i x p ha se B and h ea t t o 8OC.

4 . Add Phase A t o Phase B and m ix w h i l e c o o l i n g t o 50C.

5 .

Mix and homogenize Phase C s e p a r a t e l y an d a dd t o a bo ve

6. Homogenize t h e cream and f i l l t h e c o n t a i n e r .

SOURCE: Rheox, I n c . : Suggested Fo r m u la t i o n

TS-285

m i x t u r e o f Phase A and Phase B .

Day Cream O/W for Sensitive

Skin

Component:

I. Emulgade PL 1618

Almond O i l

C e t i o l 8 6 8

I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e

B a y s i l o n M 350

1 I . G l y c e r i n 8 6 %

Water

P r e s e r v a t i v e

Viscosi ty 23C mPas:

3;O

79.0

q . s .

150000

P r e p a r at i o n i n t h e L a bo ra to ry :

1 . H eat o i l p hase t o BOC. Heat aqueous phase t o 80C and add t o

o i l p hase w h i l e s t i r r i n g . E mu ls i f y f o r 5 min utes a t t h i s

t em pera tu re .

2 . The em uls ion i s co o le d down w h i l e s t i r r i n g ; t h e s t i r r i n g

must be s e l e c te d i n such a way t h a t t h e e mu ls io n i s k e p t i n

c o n t i n u a l m o ti on , w i t h o u t d e v e l o pi n g a s o - c a l l e d s t i r r i n g

c on e . E xc es si ve s t i r r i n g , i n p a r t i c u l a r b elo w 50C, c an

l e a d t o t h e r e du ct io n o f t h e f i n a l v i s c o s i t y .

3 .

H e a t - s e n s i t i v e a d d i t i v e s a r e added b elo w 40C. F i n i s h s t i r r i n g

a t 30C.

SOURCE:

Henkel KOaA: Fo r m u la t io n

No.:

92/216/108

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 142/553

12 Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations

Cleansing Cream

T h i s f o r m u l a t i o n i s a d ua l p u rp o se makeup r emo ve r an d s k i n

c o n d i t i o n e r . M y v a p l e x 600P g l y c e r y l s t e a r a t e p r ov id e s m i l d

c l e a n s i n g , e m o ll i en c e , and e m ul si on s t a b i l i t y . Eastman v i t a m i n

E6-81,

t h e a ce ta te e s t e r o f v i t a m i n

E,

o f f e r s i mp r ov e d h e a t and

l i g h t s t a b i l i t y .

Phase A :

Myvero l 18-06 h y d ro g e na t ed s oy g l y c e r i d e

S t e a r i c ac id , USP/NF

Pe t ro l a tum , USP

Drakeol 9 m in er al o i l

I s o p r op y l m yr i s t a t e

SF 18 (350) s i l i c o n e f l u i d ( di me th ic on e)

Phase

0 :

D i s t i 11ed water

Propy lene g l y c o l , USP

T r i

et ha no l ami ne 99%,

USP

Phase

C :

Eas tman v i tam in E

6-81

( v i t a m i n

E

a c e t a t e )

Phase D:

Fragrance

P r e s e r v a t i v e

m

6.00

4.00

10.00

10.00

10.00

2.00

q . s . t o 100

5 . 5 0

0.70

0.30

q . s .

q . s .

Procedure:

1 Combine i n g r e d i e n t s and heat Phase

A

and Phase B s e p a r a t e l y

t o 80C, m i x i n g u n t i l each phase i s u n i f o r m .

2 . Add Phase B t o Phase

A

w i t h p r o p e l l e r m ix in g .

3 . C o n t i nu e m i x i n g and s l o w l y c o o l t o 50C.

4 . Add Phase C w i t h m ix in g and when un i f o r m add Phase D .

5 . C o n t i nu e m i x i n g a nd c o o l t o room te m p e r a t ur e .

6. Ad j us t a g i t a t i o n speed t h roughou t p rocess as needed.

I n v e r s i o n w i l l occ ur a t 32C, and cream w i l l become smooth

and wh i t e .

pH:

7.71

SOURCE: Eastman Chem ical Co.: F o r m u l a t i o n

X 2 1 1 3 9 - 0 0 7

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 143/553

Creams 121

Cleansing Cream

I n a r e d i e n t s : % bv Wei a h t

(1 De i on i zed Water

31

. O

i2j Be nto n i t e (NF grade)

2 . 0

(3) G l y c e r i n 3.0

(4) S o r b i t o l (70% s o l u t i o n ) 5.0

(5) Kaopo l i t e 1147 20.0

6) Beeswax 5.0

(7) Pe t ro l a tum 10 .0

( 8 ) M i n e r a l

O i l

( l i g h t ) 1 7.0

( 9 ) A r l a c e l 186

3.0

(10)Tween 80 1 . o

( 11 )So l u l an 16

3.0

Prese rva t i ve , F rag rance & C o l o r a n t q.s.

Procedure:

Add

(2)

t o ( l ) , m ix a t h i gh speed. Reduce speed and add

(3)

and

( 4 )

u n t i l smooth . Con t i nue m i x i ng , and add

(5)

s lo w l y u n t i l

w e l l d i s p e r s e d . Heat t o 70C. I n a s e p a r a t e c o n t a i n e r , m ix 6 ) ,

( 7 ) , ( 8 ) , (9), and ( 1 0 ) a nd h e a t t o 70C u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add t o

wa te r phase and coo l t o

3 0 C

w i t h c o n t i n u e d m i x i n g .

F o l l o w recommended h a n d l i n g p r a c t i c e s o f t h e s u p p l i e r o f

each product used.

Good i n d u s t r i a l p r a c t i c e s s h o u l d b e u sed when h a n d l i n g

f l a m m a b l e i n g r e d i e n t s .

Mascara Cream

I n q r e d i e n t s :

% b y

Weight

(1 ) De i on i zed Water 27 .8

(2 ) Be nto n i t e (NF grade) 2 .0

(3) C arb ox ym eth yl C e l l u l o s e ( l o w v i s c o s i t y ) 0 .2

( 4 ) P r o p y le n e G l y c o l 5.0

(5) S o r b i t o l

(70%

s o l u t i o n ) 5.0

( 6 ) So l u l a n 98

2.5

( 7 )

Ka op o l i t e TLC 4 .0

( 8 ) I r o n O xi de s ( m i c ro n i z e d ) 3.5

( 9 ) Deodor ized Kerosene 35.0

(1 O) Ca nd el i l la Wax 5.0

(11)Carnauba Wax

(No.

1

y e l l o w )

7 . 0

( 1 2 ) A r l a c e l 1 8 6 3.0

Procedure:

D i s p e r s e (2) i n t o ( 1 ) a t h ig h speed. Add (3) and con t inue

m i x i ng u n t i l w e l l d i spe r sed . Reduce speed and add ( 4 ) ,

(5),

(61 , ( 7 ) , and (8 ) . Con t i nue m i x i ng , hea t t o 70C. In a s e p a r a t e

c o n t a i n e r , m ix ( g ) , l o ) , ( 11 ) and (12 ) and hea t t o 70C u n t i l

d i s s o l v ed . Add t o t h e aqueous phase w h i l e m i x i n g . Coo l t o 30C.

F o l l o w recommended h a n d l i n g p r a c t i c e s o f t h e s u p p l i e r o f

each product used.

Good i n d u s t r i a l p r ac t i ce s shou l d be used when hand l i ng

f l a m m a b l e i n g r e d i e n t s .

SOURCE: K a o p o l i t e , I n c . : Sugges ted Formu la t i ons

P r e s e r v a t i v e q . s .

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 144/553

122 Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations

Cold Cream

(0)

L i q u i d P a r a f f i n ( 70)

P a r a f f i n Wax (mp 42-44C)

I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e

C e t y l A l c o h o l

Hyd rogena ted Lano l i n

N i

k k o l

WCB

S o r b i t a n M o n o s t e a r a t e

Po l yoxye thy l ene (20 ) So rb i t a n M onoo l ea te

(W) Ajidew

N - 5 0

Water

P r e s e r v a t i v e

Procedure :

1 . Heat ( 0 ) and W ) t o 80-85C.

2. Add ( W ) t o (0 ) s lo w l y w i t h s t i r r i n g .

3 . Cool t o 40C w i t h s t i r r i n g .

pH: 7.2

Cold Cream

(0 )

L i q u i d P a r a f f i n (#7 0)

P a r a f f i n Wax (mp 42-44C)

P e t r o l a t u m

N i

k k o l

WCB

G1 y ce ry l Monos teara te

Po l yoxye thy l ene (10 ) Ce ty l E the r

A1 umi num Mo no st ear a te

(W) Ajidew N-50

Water

P r e s e r v a t i v e

Procedure :

1 .

Heat

0)

nd

( W )

t o 80C.

2. Add (W) t o (0 ) s lo w l y w i t h s t i r r i n g .

3 . C on ti nu e s t i r r i n g u n t i l 35-40C.

pH: 5.2

Wt%

2 0 . 0

9 . 0

3 . 0

1 . o

2 . 0

1 0 . 0

2 .7

2 .3

3 . 0

47 .0

q . s .

Wt%

30 .0

6 . 0

7 . 0

7 .0

2 . 5

2.5

2 . 0

3 . 0

42.0

q . s .

SOURCE: A j i nom o t o USA, I n c . : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n s

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 145/553

Creams

123

Cream

I n a r e d i e n t s :

A S t e a r y l a l c o h o l

B r i j 721s

6 Wate r , de i on i zed

Carbopol 934

10.00

4 .00

80 .50

0 .10

C

Sodium hydrox ide (10% W /W aqueous) 0.10

D Dowic i l 200 0 .1 0

E Fragrance 0 . 2 0

F Et ha no l, SDA-40 5. 00

Procedure:

b l a d e t y p e a g i t a t i o n . Add (C). Add

( D )

when t h e tempera t u re

dr op s bel ow 50C. Add ( E ) below

40C.

Add (F ) and water t o

com pensate f o r e vap o ra t i on . Hom ogen ize. Ad j us t pH t o 5 .5 -6 . 5 .

Heat (A) t o 70C and 8 ) t o 75C. Add (6) o ( A) s l o w l y u s i n g

Facial Washing Cream

I n a r e d i e n t s :

A M in er a l o i l

C e t y l a l c o h o l

A r l a c e l 1 6 5

Tween 60

6

G l y c e r i n

Water

* P r e s e r v a t i v e

C

*Perfume

*Co lo r

*q.s. t he se i n g r e d i e n t s .

P rocedure :

Heat

( A )

i n u e d s t i r r

Add (C) and

Formula SK-

m

25.00

2 .00

10.00

1

. o o

6.00

56.00

t o 65C and ( B ) t o 65C. Add ( B ) t o (A) w i t h c on t -

n g u n t i l t h e e m ul si on t e mp e r at u re d ro p s t o 45C.

c on t i n ue a g i t a t i o n u n t i l c o o l .

6A

Su r fa c ta n t s : SugQested F o rm u l a t i ons

OURCE: IC1

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 146/553

124

Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations

Daily Facial Cream with UV Protection

O/W)

(Expected

SPF

6

I n n r e d i e n t s :

A A r l a c e l 1 6 5

Eumulg in B 2

L a n e t t e 0

F i n s o l v TN

C e t i o l OE

I s o p r op y l m yr i s t a t e

A b i l 1 0 0

Bentone Gel MI0

Neo He l io pa n, Type AV

C u t i n a CBS

B Demi n e r a l i ed water

Pemulen TR-2

Sodium hyd rox i de (10% aq. s o l u t i o n )

G l y c e r i n 8 6 %

Phenoni p

Neo He li op an , Type Hydro; used as a

n e u t r a l i z e d w i t h sodium h y d r o xi d e

Z i n c O x i d e N e u t r a l H&R

%( w / w 1

3 . 0 0

1 . o o

2 . 0 0

3.00

5.00

1 - 0 0

1

. o o

3.00

1

.oo

2.00

67.25

0 . 4 0

0 .20

3 . 0 0

0.50

15% s o l u t i o n 3 .3 5

3 . 0 0

( a c t i v e 0 . 5 0 % )

C

Pe rfu me o i l 0 . 3 0

M a n u f a c t u r i n g P ro c es s:

P a r t A : Heat up t o 75C w i t h t ho r o ug h a g i t a t i o n .

P a r t B:

Then add t h e o t h e r i n g r e d i e n t s , e x c l u d i n g Z i n c O x id e n e u t r a l

H&R and hea t up t o 95C. Then add and d is p er se Z in c Ox ide

neut ra l H&R. Add Par t

B

t o P a r t A w h i l e s t i r r i n g . Co n t inu e s t i r r -

i n g t o room t e mp e r at u re .

P a r t

C :

emuls ion .

D is pe r se t h e Pemulen i n t h e w at er d u r i n g h i g h speed a g i t a t i o n .

A t 30C add t h e p er fu me o i l t o P a r t A / B and homogenize t h e

The pH -v a lu e o f t h e f i n i s h e d em u ls i on s h o u l d b e a p p ro x . 7 . 5

and has t o be checked.

SOURCE:

Haarman

&

Re i m er : F o rm u l a t i on

K 2/1-21282/E

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 147/553

Creams 125

Day Cream, Oily

A . I m w i t o r 960 f l a k e s

M i g l yo l 812

M i g l y o l 8 4 0

S o f t i s a n

649

Dynac er i n 660

S t e a r i c a c i d

C e t y l a l c o h o l

B . Water

C . T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e

D . Perfume

P r e s e r v a t

i

e

%

1 0 . 0

6 . 0

6 . 0

5 . 0

3.0

5.0

3.0

t o 1 0 0 . 0

0.90

q s

q s

P r e p a r a t i o n

A .

and

8 .

a r e s e p a r a t e l y warmed t o 75C. C . i s added t o B .

8. and C . a r e e m u l s i f i e d i n A . Perfume i s i n t r o d u c e d a t a p pr ox .

30C.

Moisturizing Cream, Slightly Oily

A . Im w i to r 940

M i g l y o l 8 1 2

M i g l y o l 8 4 0

L a n e t t e N

B. Hygrop l ex

HHG

K a r i o n F

1 , 2 - P r o p y l e n e g l y c o l

Water

C .

Perfume

P r e s e r v a t i v e

%

5.0

3.0

5.0

1 0 . 0

5.0

3.0

3.0

t o 1 00 .0

q s

q s

P r e p a r a t i o n :

The c o n s t i t u e n t s

o f A .

a r e m ix e d a nd h e a t e d t o 80-85C.

B . i s h ea te d t o t h e same t em pe r at ur e a nd e m u l s i f i e d i n A .

C . i s a dded a t a p pr o x. 30C.

SOURCE: H u l s A me ric a I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n s f o r C o s me ti cs :

Sugges ted Formu la t i ons

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 148/553

126

Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations

Deep Moisturizing Cream

T h i s m o i s t u r i z i n g crea m u s es C ro m o is t CS as a m o i s tu re

abso rb i ng ,

f i l m

f or mi ng p r o t e i n t o r e t a i n m o i st ur e and b i n d t o

t h e s k i n . The e m u ls i on i s f or me d and s t a b i l i z e d b y t h e Polawax,

Syncrowax , and Super Ha r to l an com b i na t i on . The o i l s a r e a b l e nd

o f Cro dal an LA, Crodamol

PMP,

Super Re fi ne d Babassu

O i l ,

and

P e t r o l a t u m w h i ch p r o v i d e s a n on g r e as y e l e g a n t f e e l an d h e l p s

t o s o f t en t h e s k i n .

I n a r e d i e n t s :

P a r t A :

Pol awax (Emu1 s i y i ng Wax NF)

Syncrowax

A w l - C

(C18-36 Acid)

Syncrowax HGL-C (C18-36 A c id T r i g l y c e r i d e )

C roda l an LA (C e t y l Ace ta te (and) Ac e t y l a te d La no l i n

Super R ef in ed Babassu

O i l

(Ba ba ssu O i l )

Super H a r t o l a n ( L a n o l i n A l c o h o l )

Crodamol

PMP

(PPG-2 M y r i s t y l E t h e r P r o p i o n a t e )

P e t r o l a t u m

Propy l Paraben

P a r t 6 :

Wa te r , de i on i zed

Methy l paraben

G1 y c e r i n

T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (99%)

A1 coho1 )

2.00

5 .50

1 . o o

1

. o o

3 .00

1 - 0 0

7 .00

1

. o o

0 . 2 0

66.00

0 .30

10.00

1 . o o

P a r t C :

Cromois t CS ( C h o n d r o i t i n S u l f a t e ( a nd ) H y d r ol y ze d

Procedure:

Combine t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t 0 w i t h m i x i n g a nd h e a t t o 75C.

Add Part B t o P a r t A w i t h hom ogen izer m i x i ng and co o l t o 65C.

Cont in ue m ix in g w i t h a sweep b la de m ixer and coo l t o 40C. Add

p a r t

C

w i t h m i x i ng and co o l t o d e s i r e d f i l l t em pera tu re .

P r o t e i n ) 1 - 0 0

Combine t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g a nd h e a t t o 75C.

V i s c o s i t y :

4,000,000+-10%

B r o o k f i e l d

RVT,

S p i n d l e

T E ,

25C)

N . A . T . C . Approved

SOURCE: Croda

Inc.:

Formula SC-207

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 149/553

Creams 127

Deep Moisturizing Creme

P a r t A :

Water

Po ta ss i urn Hy dr ox id e (45%)

Monafax 160

Phosphol

i

i d SV

Germaben

1 1 - E

T i a n i um D i ox id e

P a r t :

C e t y l A l c o h o l

M yr i s t y 1 M yr i s t a t e

I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e

Dimethicone (1OOcs)

L an ol i n A l c o h ol

%

b y

Weight

84.5

0 . 4

1 . 0

2 . 5

0 . 6

0 . 5

2 . 0

3.0

4 . 0

1 . o

0 . 5

Procedure:

Hea t Pa r t A w i t h a g i t a t i i o n t o 60C. S e pa r at e l y h ea t P a r t B t o

60C. Homogenize P a r t B i n t o P a r t A f o r a s u f f i c i e n t t i m e t o

e n s u r e g o o d e m u l s i f i c a t i o n . S t i r co ol t o 45C, add f r ag ra nc e, and

package.

SOURCE: Mona I n d u s t r i e s , I n c . : Sugges ted Formu la t i on

Apricot Vanishing Cream

Phase

( 1 ) :

Rosswax 63-041 2

Rosswax 573

Am er l a te P

Emerest 2314

Emerest 2316

G l yce ry l M onos tea ra te SE

A p r i c o t K e r n a l O i l

L i p o v o l

P

Phase

( 2 ) :

Water

Emery 916 Pure G ly c e r in e

T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e

Phase

3 ) :

Germaben I 1

3

6.64

9 . 2

0 . 8

0 . 8

0 . 8

0 . 8

0 . 4

1 . 3

72 .9

6.2

0 . 9 6

1 . 0

Fragrance GK-19

9,5.

Procedure:

I n se p a r a t e steam j a c k e t e d k e t t l e s , h e a t b o t h Phase ( 1 ) and

( 2 ) t o a t e m p e r at u r e o f 170F w i t h a g i t a t i o n . When t h e te mp er a-

t u r e i s r eached , add Phase

1 )

t o Phase

( 2 )

w i t h c o n t i n ue d

a g i t a t i o n . Coo l t o 130F, add Phase (3 ) and f ra g r an ce . Con t i nue

t o coo l t o 120F and package.

SOURCE: Frank 8 .

R o s s C o . ,

I n c . : S ug ge st ed F o r m u l a t i o n

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 150/553

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 151/553

Creams 129

Emoll ient Cream for Dry Flaking Skin

I n a r e d i e n t :

De ion i zed Water

T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e 99%

Propy l ene G l yco l

Xanthan Gum

Tet rasod ium EDTA

Ce te ar y l A1 coho l

Laneth-5

G l y c e r y l M o n o s t e a r a t e

O i l s o f Aloha Kukui Nut O i l

V i t a m i n E Ace ta te

S t e a r i c A c i d XXX

D i meth i cone

O c t y l P a l m i t a t e

Germaben

I 1

Fragrance

No.:Phase:

1 A

2 A

3 A

4 A

5 A

6 B

7 B

8 B

9 B

10

B

11 0

12 B

13 B

14

C

15 D

% bv Weiaht

74.65%

1.00%

3.00%

0.30%

0.10%

1 .OO%

1.50%

4.00

3.00%

0.20%

4.00%

1 .OO%

5.00%

1 .OO%

0.25

M anu fac tu r i ng P rocedu re :

Heat Phase A t o 75C. Heat Phase B t o 75C.

Add Phase B t o Phase A . Cool t o 40C and add rem ain ing phases.

Package.

A

o i l i n w at er e mu ls io n where t h e p r i m a r y e m u l s i f i e r s a r e

T h i s i s a f a i r l y i ne xp en si ve f o rm u la t h a t u ses t wo e m o l l i e n ts -

An e x c e l l e n t example o f t h e f e e l

o f

Kuku i .

s t e a r i c a c i d w i t h t r i e t h a n o l a m i n e and L an et h-5 .

Ku ku i and o c t y l p a l m i t a t e .

1

2

Phase:

A

A

3 B

4 B

5 B

6 0

7 B

8

B

9 B

10

C

Facial Cleansing Cream

I n a r e d i e n t :

Dei on i zed Water

G1 y c e r i ne

M i n e r a l O i l

O i l s o f A loha Macademia Nut O i l

O i l s o f Aloha Kukui Nut O i l

C e t y l A l c o h o l

C12-15 A1 co ho l s Benzoate

A r l a c e l 1 6 5

Po lysorba te -60

P r e s e r v a ti e

% by

Wei

caht

54.00%

6.00%

15.00%

5.00%

5.00%

2.00%

2 . 0 0 %

10.00%

1.00%

QS

Manufac tu r ing Procedure :

Phase

A :

Hea t wa te r and g l y c e r i n phase t o 75C.

Phase

0:

H ea t o i l p ha se t o 75C. Add t o w a t er p ha se . C oo l t o

Phase C: A d d p r e s e r v a t i v e .

40C.

SOURCE:

Oils

o f

Aloha:

Suggested Formulat ions

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 152/553

13 Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations

Emollient Cream

I n a r e d i e n t s :

A

Ar lamol

E

A r

1 as o l ve 200L

B r i j 72

S t e a r y l a l c o h ol

B Water , de i on i zed

Carbopol 934

C Sodium hydrox ide (10% W /W aqueous)

D

* P r e s e r v a t i v e

*Perfume

* q .

s .

t h e s e

i

g r e d i e n t s .

M

20 .00

1 . 1 0

7 .20

2 . 0 0

69.30

0 . 2 0

0.20

Procedure :

go od a g i t a t i o n and ad d

( C )

a t 35C and m ix tho ro ug h l y . Add ( D ) .

Heat ( A ) t o 72C a nd ( B ) t o 7 5 C . Add

(B )

t o ( A) s lo w ly w i t h

R e pl ac e w a te r l o s t d ue t o e v a p o r a t i o n . P acka ge.

Formula AE-15

Non-Greasy Emollient Cream

I n a r e d i e n t s :

A

I s o p ro p y l m yr i s t a t e

S t e a r y l a l c o ho l

B r i j

721s

B r i j 72

B

Water , de i on i zed

Carbopol 934

10.00

4.00

5.11

1 .89

58.10

0 . 4 0

C Sod ium hydrox ide (10% W /W aqueous) 0.40

D

* P r e s e r v a t i v e

E Fragrance 0 .10

F

Ethano l

Procedure :

Heat ( A )

moderate ag

( F ) a t 35C.

Formula SK-

SOURCE: I C 1

SDA-40 20 IO0

t o 70C and ( 6 ) t o 72C. Add ( B ) t o (A) s l ow l y w i t h

t a t i o n . Add ( C ) . Add ( D ) be lo w 50C. Add ( E) and

Rep lace wa te r l o s t by eva po r a t i o n and package.

2

S u r f a c t a n t s : S ug ge st ed F o r m u l a t i o n s

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 153/553

Creams 131

Emollient Cream

I n g r e d i e n t s :

A C e t y l a l c o h o l

S t e a r y l a lc o h o l

P e t r o l a t u m

L i q u i d l a n o l i n f r a c t i o n

B r i j 72

B r i j

700

B Water , de i on i zed

* P r e s e r v a t i v e

* q . s . t h e se i n g r e d i e n t s .

Procedure:

a g i t a t i o n .

Heat (A ) t o 70C. Heat (B) t o 72C. Add (B) t o (A ) w i t h

Emollient Cream

I n g r e d i e n t s :

A B r i j 72

B r i j 721

Ar lamol

E

S t e a r y l a lc o h o l

C e t y l a l c o h o l

S t e a r i c a c i d

S i l i c o n e f l u i d ( G E SF 96-20)

6

P r o p y l e n e g l y c o l

*Dowic i l 200

Water , de i on i zed

* q . s .

t he s e i n g r e d i e n t s .

3 .00

2 . 0 0

5 . 0 0

2 .00

3.00

3.00

82 .00

%w/w

3 . 0 0

2 .00

9 . 0 0

0 . 7 0

0 . 3 0

1 .50

1 . o o

4.00

78.50

Procedure:

moderate s t i r r i n g . S t i r t o 35C and add w a t e r l o s t d ue t o

evapo ra t i n.

Formula PC-9028

Hea t (A ) t o 70C. Hea t (B ) t o 72C. Add (B ) t o (A ) s l o w l y w i t h

Vanishing Cream

I n n r e d i e n t s :

A r l a c e l 165, a c i d s t a b l e g. m. s.

L an ol i n

C e t y l a1 coho1

M in era l o i l

Sorbo,

70%

s o r b i t o l s o l u t i o n , U . S . P ,

Wate r , de i on i zed

%w/w

18.00

2 . 0 0

1 . o o

1 .00

2 .00

76.00

Procedure:

room temperature.

SOURCE:

IC1

S u r f a c t a n t s : S ug ge st ed F o r m u l a t i o n s

Heat a l l i n g r e d i e n t s t o 9OC w i t h mo de rate a g i t a t i o n . Cool t o

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 154/553

132

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

European

O/W Day

Cream

I n g r e d i e n t s :

Isohexadecane

C ap ry l c / c a p r i c t r i g l y c e r i d e

Avocado o i l

Sunf lower Seed O i l

Tocophero l Ace ta te

Beheny l a l coho l

A n t i o x i d a n t

A r l a tone 2121

G1 y c e r o l

Pantheno l

A1 1a n t o i n

* P r e s e r v a t i v e

Xanthan gum

Water

* q . s . t he se i n g r e d i e n t s .

1 0 . 0 0

4 . 0 0

2 . 0 0

2 .00

2 .00

2 .00

0 . 0 5

5 . 5 0

4 . 0 0

1

. o o

0.20

0 . 1 5

67.10

Procedure :

M e l t A r l a to ne 2121 and add t o rem ai nde r o f (B) and (C)

m i x t u r e a t 80C. Add hea ted (A ) t o t h e (B ) and (C) m i x tu re

a t 75C w i t h v i g o r o u s a g i t a t i o n . Homogenize m i x t u r e a t 65C

Cream

I n a r e d i e n t s :

A

C e t y l a l c o h o l

B r i j 7215

S i l i c o n e o i l , 350 c s

B Wate r , de i on i zed

C Hydrogen

p e r o x id e , 27% d i l u t i o n g r ad e

w/w

6 . 0 0

5 . 0 0

0 . 5 0

66.30

22

*

2 0

Procedure :

modera te ag t a t i o n . Add (C) be low 35C. Rep ace wat er l o s t by

e v a p o r a t i o n and a d j u s t pH t o 3 . 5 - 4. 0 w i t h i l u t e phosphor c

a c i d (10% C . P . ) , Package i n s u i t a b l e c o n t a i n e r f o r p o s s i b e

e v o l u t i on o f o x yg e n.

Formula PC-8200

SO URCE : I C 1 S u r f a c t a n t s : S ug ge ste d F o r m u l a t i o n s

Heat ( A) t o 60C and ( 8) t o 65C. Add 6 ) o (A) s l o w ly w i t h

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 155/553

Creams 133

Exfoliating Cream

The use o f n a t u r a l e x f o l i a t i n g a gent ( e a s i l y d i sp er se d ) i n

t h i s cream f or mu la g i v i n g a m ar ve lo us , n o n - i r r i t a t i n g , a b r a s iv e

q u a l i t y f o r t h e removal o f s pe nt s u r f ac e c e l l s . T h is w i l l renew

and r e v i t a T i z e worn and damaged sk i n , l e av i n g a b a r r i e r wh i ch

c o n t a i n s n a t u r a l a n t i - o x i d a n t s i n h e r e n t i n t h e beeswax and

orange wax.

Phase A :

Orange Wax ( K o s t e r Keunen)

NF

White Beeswax (Koster Keunen)

I s o s t e a r i c A c i d (Un ich ema )

Almond O i l ( A r i s t a )

L i g h t M i n e r a l

O i l

(W i t co )

G l yc er o l Monos teara te (Kos te r Keunen)

C e t y l s t e a r y l A lc o h o l (P&G)

Oc ty l Pa l m i t a te (Un i chem a)

Phase 8 :

Water ( D i s t i 11 ed)

Pr op yl ene G1 y c o l (Dow)

Tr ie thano lam ine (Dow)

P o l y s o r b a t e 60 (G al l a r d & S c h l e s i n g e r )

Carbopol 940 (BF Go od r ic h)

Germaben

I 1

( S u t t o n )

Phase

C :

Mi cr o gr an ul at ed Carnauba, 20-60 mesh (K os te r Keunen)

3.5%

1 . 0 %

3.0%

3.5%

4 . 0

1 .5%

1 .0%

3.0%

64 6%

2.5%

1

.O%

0.2%

0.2%

1 . 0

10.0%

Procedure :

0

a t 75C u n de r a g i t a t i o n . C o n t i nu e m i x i n g and c o o l t o 50C. Add

Phase C and mix u n t i l homogeneous.

A da pt io n o f f o rm u la and i t s i n f l u e n c e on t h e p r o du c t :

i n g s t e a r i c a c i d f o r i s o s t e a r i c a c i d , t o accomodate y ou r p r e -

f e r r e d c o n t a i n e r . F or s e n s i t i v e s k i n , r ed uc e t h e o ra ng e wax,

and r ep la ce w i t h K est er Wax 62 and Cer es in e 130/135. A low

v i s c o s i t y

w i l l

a l l o w t h i s p r o du c t t o be packaged i n a b o t t l e

f i t t e d w i t h a pump and a p r o du c t w i t h h i g h v i s c o s i t y a l l o ws

packag ing i n an open j a r . The f o rm u l a t i ng advantages rema i n un-

a l t e r e d by t h e c hanges i n v i s c o s i t y .

SOURCE: Kos te r Keunen, I n c . : Sugges ted Fo rm u la t i o n

Add a mix ed and un i f o r m Phase A t o a m ixed and u n i fo rm Phase

V i s c o s i t y o f t h i s p ro du ct can e a s i l y be a l t e r e d b y s u b s t i t u t -

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 156/553

134 Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations

Facial M oistur izing C ream

Ethy lhexy l p -methoxyc innamate

B u t y l m e t h o x y d i b e n z o y l m e t h a n e

E t h y l e n e - a c r y l a t e c op o ly me r

H y dr ox yp ro p yl g l y c e r y l e t h e r

P r o t o p e t 1 s P e t r o l a t u m

Dimeth i cone

Steare th -100

G l y c e r y l m o n o s t e a r a t e

C e t y l a l c o h o l

S t e a r i c A c i d

Carbomer 934

Carbomer 941

Methy lparaben

Propy lparaben

I m i

d a z o l

i

n y lu r e a

Tetrasodium EDTA

T y r o s i n e

P o t a s s i um h y d r o x i de

T i a n i um d i o x i d e

Fragrance

Water

Moisturizing Hand &

Body

Cream

I n a r e d i e n t s :

Dei o n i zed Water

Carbomer 934

G l y c e r i n e

Po lya ldo 10-1-5

P e t r o l a t u m

C a r n a t i o n M i n e r a l O i 1

Lonzest 143/S

A l d o HMS

S t e a r i c A c id

T r i e th an o l ami ne 99%

G l y d a n t P l u s

4,90%

2.10

0.50

5.00

2.00

0 . 4 0

0.70

0.30

1 . 2 0

0.52

0 . 1 0

0 . 1 0

0 . 2 0

0.10

0 . 1 0

0 .10

0 .10

0 .37

0 . 4 0

0.15

q . s .

t o 100.00

%Wt.

82 .00

0.50

5 .00

1 . 5 0

2 . 0 0

2 . 0 0

2.00

1 .50

2 .50

1

. o o

q . s .

SOURCE: Wi tc o Co rp . : Pet ro l eum S p e c i a l t i e s Group: Sugg ested

F o r m u l a t i o n s

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 157/553

Creams

135

Facial Night Cream

P a r t

A :

Dei o n i zed Water

S o r bi o 1

Methy lparaben

P a r t B :

C14-16 a l c o h o l s b e n z o a t e

L an ol n

P r o t o p e t IS P e t r o l a t u m

Beeswax

P o l y s o r b a t e 80

G ly c e r y l s te a ra te and PEG

S t e a r i c a c i d

T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e

P a r t

C :

G l y c o s p h i n g o l i p i d s

P a r t

D :

Dimeth icone

D i

azo1 i n y l u r e a

Fragrance

100 s t e a r a t e

53.7%

1 . o

0.2

15.0

1 . o

5.0

4.0

2.0

3.0

0.6

5.0

1 . o

0.3

0.2

8.0

Procedure:

B eg in h e a t i n g w at er t o 80 C e l s i u s , a dd r e s t

o f

P a r t A . M i x

w e l l . Add P a r t

B

i n g r ed i e n t s i n o r d e r . M ix u n t i

1

homogeneous.

B e gi n c o o l i n g t o room t e m p e r at u r e . S l o w l y add P a r t

C;

mix u n t i l

smooth. Add r e s t

o f

P a r t

D

i n g r e d i e n t s . M ix w e l l

Age Spot Treatment Cream

D i ethano ami ne c e t y l phosphate

E t h y l e n e g l y c o l m o no s te a ra te

I s op r op y P a l m i t a t e

C e t e a r y l o c t a n o a t e

P r o t o p e t 1s P e t r o l a t u m

La no l i n a l c o h ol s

Propy lparaben

Methylchloroisothiazolinone and m e t h y l i s o t h i a z o l i n o n e

I m i da zo l i d i n y l u r e a

Methy lparaben

BHA

BHT

C y s t e i n e

R e d u c e d g l u t a t h i o n e

Py roca techo l

A sc o rb y l p a l m i t a t e

A c e t i c A c i d

Octy lmethoxy c innamate

B u t y lm e t hoxyd ibenzoy lm e t hane

F rag rance

2.00%

12.00

12.00

2.00

2.50

3.00

0.10

0.05

0.10

0.10

0.20

0.30

0.50

0.50

2.00

0.20

0.20

1 . o o

1 .oo

0.60

Water

q . s .

t o 100.00

SOURCE: W i t c o Corp. Pet ro le um Spec i a1

t i

s Group: Suggested

F o r m u l a t i o n s

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 158/553

136 Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations

General Purpose Cream

1 . A -C Copolymer 540

2 .

A - C Polye thy lene 617

3 . Amerchol L-101

4 . M i n e r a l O i l

5 . Hexadecy l S tea ra te

6 . Emerest 2452

7. Propyl-p-Hydroxybenzoate

8 . M e t h y l - p - H y d r o x y b e n z o a t e

9 . S o r b i t o l ( 7 0 % )

10 .00

r a x

11 .Magnes ium S u l f a t e

12.Water

Wtl

2 . 0

2 . 0

5 . 0

10 .2

1 0 . 0

5 . 5

0 .1

0 . 2

5 . 0

0 . 3

0 .3

59.7

Procedure:

a c l o u d p o i n t o f a p p r o x i m at e l y 80C. Above t h e c l o u d p o i n t a l l

waxes w i l l e v e n t u a l l y d i s s o l v e i n t h e b le n d .

I f

a h i g h e r s o l v -

a t i n g t e mp e r at u re i s u se d, s o l v a t i o n ca n be much f a s t e r . H o l d

t h e wax b l e n d a t 85C. H eat 8-12 t o 85-9OC and s t i r g e n t l y u n t i l

a l l has d i s s o l v e d . H o l d a t 85C.

P l a c e wax b l e n d i n m i x i n g c o n t a i n e r , add aqueous p has e t o i t

and sh ear w i t h homomixer o r c o l l o i d

m i l l .

A t 78C t h e cru de

d i s p e r s i o n i n v e r t s a nd a t h i c k creamy e m u l s io n f o r m s . C o n t i n u e

s h e a r in g w h i l e s c r a p i n g t h e s i d e s o f t h e c o n t a i n e r and make

s u r e t h e w ho le c o n t e n t i s p r o p e r l y s he a re d . Add p e rf um e, de-

ae ra te and package.

Weigh 1 -7 and hea t t o 85C w i t h s l ow ag i t a t i o n . The b l e nd has

General Purpose Water/Oil Cream

1 . A - C

Polye thy lene 617

2 . 0

2 . Beeswax 4 . 0

3 . M i n e r a l O i l 15 .0

4 . A r l a c e l 83 5 . 5

5 . P r o p y l - p - H y d r o x y b e n z o a t e 0 . 1

6 .

Borax 0 . 3

7 . S o r b i t o l

5 . 0

8 . Methyl-p-Hydroxybenzoate 0 . 2

9 . Germal l 115 0. 3

10.Water 67.6

Procedure:

h as a c l o u d p o i n t o f a p p r o x i m a t e l y 80C. Above t h e c l o u d p o i n t

a l l waxes

w i l l

e v e n t u a l l y d i s s o l v e i n b le nd .

I f

a h igher temp-

e r a t u r e i s used, t h e s o l v a t i o n can b e much f a s t e r . H o l d t h e wax

b l en d a t 80-85C. Heat 5 -10 t o 85-9OC and s t i r gen t1

Weigh 1 -4 and hea t t o 85C w i t h s l ow a g i t a t i o n . T h i s wax b l en d

i s d i s s o l v e d . H o ld a t 85C.

P l ace wax b l e nd i n m i x i n g co n t a i n e r , add aqueous

and shear w i t h homomixer o r c o l l o i d m i l l . A t approx

t h e

c rude d i s pe rs i o n i n v e r t s . Some wa te r may n o t be

t ak en up a t t h i s p o i n t b u t c o n t in u e d s he a ri ng

w i l l

i t a l l . Add per fume, d e-aer a te and package.

SOURCE:

A 1 1i d S i gna l I nc . : 501 1-1 9-5/5011-20-1

u n t i l a l l

ph as e t o i t

mately 48C

compl e t e l y

n c o r p o r a t e

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 159/553

Creams 137

General Purpose O/W Cream

1 .

2 .

3 .

4 .

5 .

6.

7 .

8 .

9 .

10

11

12

A - C Copolymer 540

M i n e r a l O i l , 70 v i s .

Dow F l u i d 556

Emerest 2388

Amerchol 400

S o l u l a n 2 5

A r l a c e l 6 0

S o r b i t o l ( 7 0 % )

Tween 60

Carbopol 940

Germal l 115

T r i et ha no l ami ne

wt /o

2 . 0

5 . 0

1

. o

1 0 . 5

2 . 0

1

. o

2 . 0

5 . 0

1

. o

0 . 7 5

0 . 4

0 . 7 5

13.Water 68.6

Procedure :

s lo w a g i t a t i o n . Add r em a i n i ng i g r e d i e n t s , e xc e pt T r i e t h a n o l -

amine, t o t h e Ca rbopo l/wa te r d i s p e r s i o n and hea t t o 80-9OC.

Add t h e aqueous phase t o t h e wax phase and shear i n homomixer

f o r f i v e m i n u te s . Add T r i e t h a no l a m in e and c o n t i n u e t o s h ea r

w h i l e c o o l i n g t o 40-5OC. Add perfume, de- aer a te and package.

D i spe r se Ca rbopo l i n wa t e r . Weigh 1 -7 and hea t t o 80-9OC w i t h

General Purpose

o/w

Cream

1 . A - C

Copolymer 540

2 . M i n e r al o i 1 ,

70

v i s .

3 . Dow F l u i d 556

4. Emerest 2388

5. Hydroxy01

6 .

Ethoxyo l 24

7 . A r l a c e l

60

8 . S o r b i t o l (70%)

9 . Tween 60

10. Carbo pol 940

11.Germal l 115

1 2 . T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e

13 .Water

Et

2 . 0

5 . 0

1

. o

1 0 . 5

2 . 0

1

. o

2 . 0

5 . 0

1

. o

0 . 7 5

0 . 4

0 . 7 5

68.6

Procedure :

s l ow a g i t a t i o n . Add re m a in i ng i n g r e d i e n t s , e xc ep t T r i e t h a n o l -

amine, t o t h e Ca rbopo l /wa te r d i sp e r s i on and hea t t o 80-9OC.

Add t h e aqueous phase t o t h e wax phase and shear i n homomixer

f o r f i v e m i n ut e s. Add T r i et h a n o la m i n e and c o n t i n u e t o s h ea r w h i l e

c o o l i n g t o 40-5OC. Add per fume, de-ae arate and package.

SOURCE: A l l i e d Si g na l I n c . : R ef : 5011-25-2/Ref: 5011-25-2A

D i spe rse Ca rbopo l i n wa t e r . Weigh 1 -7 and hea t t o 80-9OC w i t h

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 160/553

138 Cosmetic and

Toiletry

Formulations

General Purpose O/W Cream

1 .

A-C Copolymer 540

2 .

M in e r a l o i l ,

70

v i s

3. Dow F l u i d 556

4 . I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e

5 . Amerchol 400

6 . So l u l an 25

7 . A r l a c e l 6 0

8 .

S o r b i t o l (70%)

9 . Tween 60

10.

Carbopol 940

11 .Ge rma l l 115

1 2 . T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e

13.Water

w

2 . 0

5 . 0

1

. o

1 0 . 5

2 .0

1 . o

2.0

5 0

1

. o

0 . 7 5

0 . 4

0 .75

6 8 . 6

Procedure:

s lo w a g i t a t i o n . Add re m a i n in g i n g r e d i e n t s , e xc ep t T r i e t h a n o l -

amine , t o th e Carbopo l/wa te r d i sp e rs io n and hea t t o 80-9OC.

Add t h e aqueous phase t o t h e wax phase and shear i n homomixer

f o r f i v e m i n u t e s . Add T r ie t h a n o la m i n e and c o n t i n u e t o s he ar

w h i l e c o o l i n g t o 40-5OC. Add per fume, de-ae ra te and package.

D ispe rse Carbopo l i n wat e r . Weigh 1 -7 and hea t t o 80-9OC w i t h

General Purpose

O/W

Cream

1 . A - C Polye thy lene 617

2 . A - C Copolymer 540

3 . M i n e ra l o i

1 ,

70 v i s .

4 . Dow F l u i d 556

5 .

Emerest 2388

6 . Amerchol 400

7 . So l u l an 25

8 . A r l a c e l 60

9 . S o r b i t o l

(70%)

10.Tween 60

11 .Carb opol

940

12.Germal l 115

13. T r i e th ano l ami ne

14.Water

W B

1 . 0

1 . o

5 . 0

1 . o

1 0 . 5

2 . 0

1 . o

1 . 3

5 . 0

0 . 7 5

0 . 4

0 . 7 5

68.5

1

. a

Procedure:

s lo w a g i t a t i o n . Add re m a i n in g i n g r e d i e n t s , e x c ep t T r i e t h a n o l -

am ine, t o t h e Ca rbopol /wa te r d i sp e r s i on and hea t t o 80-9OC.

Add t h e aqueous phase t o t h e wax phase and sh ear i n homomixer

f o r f i v e m i nu t e s. Add T r i et h a n o l am i n e a nd c o n t i n u e t o s he ar

w h i l e co o l i n g t o 40-5OC. Add per fume, de-ae ra te and package.

SOURCE:

A l l i e d S i gna l I n c . : Re f : 5011-25 -2B/Re f: 5011-25-3

D isper se Carbopo l i n wat e r . Weigh 1 -8 and hea t t o 80-9OC w i t h

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 161/553

Creams

139

General Purpose

O/W

Cream

1.

A -C

Po l ye thy l ene 617

2 . A - C Copolymer 540

3 . M i n e r a l o i 1 , 70 v i s .

4 . Dow F l u i d 556

5 . Emerest 2388

6. Hydroxy01

7. Ethoxyol 24

8 . A r l a c e l 60

9 . S o r b i t o l (70%)

10.Tween 60

11. Carbo pol 940

12.Germal l 115

1 3 . T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e

14.Water

wts/b

1

. o

1 . o

5 . 0

1 . o

1 0 . 5

2 . 0

1 . o

1 . 3

5 . 0

1 . 8

0 . 7 5

0 . 4

0 . 7 5

68.5

Procedure :

w i t h s lo w a g i t a t i o n . Add r em a in i ng i n g r e d i e n t s , e xc ep t T r i e t h a n -

o l am i ne , t o t h e C a rb o p ol / wa t e r d i s p e r s i o n a nd h e a t t o 80-9OC.

Add t h e aqueous phase t o t h e wax phase and shear i n homomixer

f o r f i v e m i nu t e s. Add T r i e t ha n o l a m in e a nd c o n t i n u e t o s he ar

w h i l e c o o l i n g t o 40-5OC. Add per fume, de- aer a te and package.

D isp ers e Carbopo l i n wa te r . Weigh 1 -8 and hea t t o 80-9OC

General Purpose

O/W

Cream

I .

A - C

Po l ye thy l ene 617

2. A - C Copolymer 540

3 . M i n e r al o i 1 , 70 v i s .

4 . Dow F l u i d 556

5 .

I s o p r o p y l M y r

6. Amerchol 400

7 . S o l u l a n 2 5

8 . A r l a c e l 6 0

9 . S o r b i t o l ( 7 0 %

10.Tween 60

11.Carbopol

12.Germal l 115

s t a t e

1 3 . T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e

14.Water

Wt%

1

. o

1 . o

5 . 0

1 . o

1 0 . 5

2 . 0

1

. o

1 . 3

5 . 0

1 . 8

0 . 7 5

0 . 4

0 . 7 5

68.5

Procedure :

D is per se Carbopo l i n wa te r . Weigh 1 -8 and hea t t o 80-9OC

w i t h s l o w a g i t a t i o n . Add re m a in i ng i n g r e d i e n t s , e x ce p t T r i e t h a n -

o l am i ne , t o t h e C a rb o p ol /w a t er d i s p e r s i o n a n d h e a t t o 80-9OC.

Add t h e aqueous phase t o t h e wax phase and shear i n homomixer

f o r f i v e m i n u te s . Add T r i et h a n o la m i n e and c o n t i n u e t o s he ar

w h i l e c o o l i n g t o 40-5OC. Add per fume, de- aer a te and package.

SOURCE: A l l i e d S ig na l I n c . : Re f . 5011-25-3A/5011-25-3B

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 162/553

14 Cosmetic and Toiletry Form ulations

General Purpose O/W Cream

1 .

2.

3 .

4 .

5 .

6 .

7 .

8 .

9 .

10

11

12

A - C

P o l y e t h y l e n e 61 7

A - C

Copolymer

540

M i n e r a l O i l (70 s s )

Dow 556 F l u i d

Pro pyl ene G1 y c o l D i p e l a r g o n a t e

Hydroxy01

E thoxyo l 24

A r l a c e l 60

Tween 60

P ropy l -P -Hyd roxybenzoa t e

S o r b i t o l ( 7 0 % )

Carbopol 940

wtv

1 . o

1 . o

5 . 0

1

. o

1 0 . 5

2 . 0

1

. o

1 . 3

1 . 8

0 . 1

5 . 0

0 . 7 5

13.Germal l 115 0 . 4

14.Methyl-P-Hydroxybenzoate

0 . 2

15 . T r i th an ol ami ne

16 .Wate r 68 .3

Procedure:

Dis pe rs e Carbopo l i n wat e r . Weigh 1 -10 and hea t t o 80-9OC

w i t h s l ow a g i t a t i o n . Add r e m a i ni n g i n g r e d i e n t s t o Ca rb op ol /w at er

d i s p e r s i o n , e x c ep t t r i e t h a n o l a m i n e , a nd h e a t t o 80-9OC. Add t h e

wax phase t o t h e aqueous phase and shear i n homomixer. Co nt inu e

s h e a r in g w h i l e c o o l i n g t o 40C, t h e n add t r i e t h a n o l a m i n e , m i x i n g

w e l l . Coo l t o 30C, add per fume, de-a era te and package.

Ref: 5011-25-4

0 . 7 5

Acne Scrub Cream

Fo r acne sc ru b cream, add 10% A - C P o l y e t h y l e n e S A t o t h i s

f o r m u l a t i o n , a f t e r c o o l i n g .

Em ollient Cream W ater/Oil

1 . A - C Po ly et hy le ne 617A 1%

2 . A - C Copolymer 540 4

3 . L a n o l i n Wax 10

4 . M i n e r a l O i l 30

5 .

2

E t h y l H e xy l S t e a r a t e 4 . 5

6 . A r l a c e l 20

4.6

7. Tween 20 1 . 5

8 . P Paraben 0 .1

9 . M Paraben 0.15

10.Water 43.85

11 .Borax 0. 15

12.Carbopol 941 0. 15

Procedure:

1. Heat 1-5

to

9OC u n t i l a l l h as d i s s o l v e d .

2 . Add 6, 7 and 8 t o 1-5. Ho ld a t 85C.

3 . Heat

10

and 11 t o 90-95C u n t i l a l l h as d i s s o l v e d ; add 12

g r a d u a l l y w i t h s h e ar u s i n g t h e G if f or d -W o o d Homomixer o r

e qu i v a l e n t

.

4. Add 1-8 t o mixe r and shear f o r 10 minute s a t 85-9OC. Shear

t o 65C, add per fume and package.

SOURCE: Allied Signal Inc.: Suggested Formulations

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 163/553

Creams 141

General Purpose Cream

WtO/o

1 . A-C Po ly et hy le ne 617A 3.0

2 . Beeswax 2 . 0

3 . L a n o l i n A l c o h o l 1

. o

4 .

I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e 8 . 2

5 . 2 - e t h y l H ex yl P a l m i t a t e 1 0 .0

6 . Dow 200 F l u i d , 350 c s 1

. o

7 . T r i g l y c e r a l D i

i

o s t e a ra t e 5 . 5

8 . P ropy l -P -Hyd roxybe nz oa t e 0 . 1

9 . S o r b i t o l (70%) 5 . 0

1 0 .A l oe E x t r a c t 5 . 0

11.Sodium Bor at e, Anhydrous 0 . 3

13.Germal l 115 0 . 3

15.Water 58.3

12 .M e thy l -P -Hyd roxybenzoa te 0 . 2

1 4 . B u t y l - P - H y d r o x y b e n z o a t e

0 . 1

Procedure:

h as a c l o u d p o i n t o f a p p r o x i m a t e l y 80C. Above t h e c l o u d p o i n t

a l l waxes

w i l l

e v e n t u a l l y d i s s o lv e i n t h e b le nd . I f a h i g h e r

s o l v a t i n g t e m p e ra t ur e i s used, s o l v a t i o n can b e much f a s t e r .

Ho l d t h e wax b l e nd a t 85C. Hea t 9 -15 t o 85-9OC and s t i r g en t l y

u n t i l a l l has d is s o l v e d . H o ld a t 85'2.

and shear w i t h homomixer o r c o l l o i d m i l l . A t 67C t h e c rud e

d i s p e r s i o n i n v e r t s a nd a t h i c k creamy e m ul s io n f or m s. C o n t i n u e

s h e a r in g w h i l e s c r a p i n g t h e s i d e s o f t h e c o n t a i n e r t o make s u re

t h e w ho le c o n t e n t i s p r o p e r l y s h ea re d . Add pe r fu m e, d e -a e r at e

and package.

Ref: 5189-4-10A

Weigh 1 -8 and and hea t t o 85C w i t h s l ow a g i t a t i o n . The b l end

P l a c e wax b l e n d i n m i x i n g c o n t a i n e r , a dd aqu eo us ph as e t o

i t

1.

2 .

3 .

4 .

5 .

6 .

7 .

8 .

9 .

10.

11.

Water-In-Oil Cream

A-C 617

M i n e r a l O i 1 (70-75 S S )

I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e

Esca lo l 507

Lanogene

S o r b i t a n S e s q u i o l e a t e ( A r l ace1 8 3)

Sorbo

Borax

Germaben I I E

Water

Perfume

%

3 . 0

1 5 . 0

6 . 0

4 . 0

5.0

5 . 0

5 . 0

0 . 3

1 . o

Balance

Q . S .

Procedure:

o l v e d . M a i n t a i n

i t

a t 100-11OC. Heat 7-10 w i t h v i g o r ou s a g i t a -

t i o n w i t h a c o l l o i d

m i l l

o r homof ixer u n t i l t h e s o l u t i o n i s a t

85C. C o n t in u e v i g o r o u s a g i t a t i o n and p o u r i n 1 -6 . A c ru d e o i l -

i n - w a t e r e m u ls i on i s f or me d . C oo l

w i t h

c o l d w at er b a t h t o a b ou t

55-60C when

i t

i n v e r t s i n t o a smooth cr ea m. A t 50-55C add pe rf um e

and package.

SOURCE: A l l i e d S i g n a l I n c . : S ug ge sted F o r m u l a t i o n s

Heat 1 -6 w i t h m i l d a g i t a t i o n u n t i l a l l t h e A -C 617 has d i s s -

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 164/553

142

Cosmetic and T o i l e v Formulations

Gener al Pur pose Wat er / Oi l Cr eam

W

1

A- C Pol yet hy l ene

617

2. 0

2. A- C Copol ymer

540 2. 0

3.

Mi ner al Oi l

( 70

s s ) 10. 2

4.

2

Et hyl Hexyl St ear at e 10. 0

6. Tr i gl yc er ol Di i s os t ear at e 5 . 5

7. P r o p y l - P - H y d r o x y b e n z o a t e 0. 1

8 . Methy l -P-Hydroxybenzoate

0. 2

9. Sor bi t ol (70

5. 0

10.

Bor ax 0. 3

1 1

. Wat er 59. 7

Pr ocedur e:

Wei gh 1- 5 and heat t o 85C wi t h s l ow agi t a t i on. Thi s wax

bl end has a c l oud poi nt

o f

79C. Above t he c l oud poi nt al l

waxes wi l l event ual l y di s sol ve i n bl end.

I f

a hi gher sol vat i ng

t emper at ur e i s used, so l vat i on can be much f ast er . Hol d t he wax

bl end at 70- 8OC and add

6

and

7

t o i t wi t h s t i r r i ng unt i l al l

has di sso l ved. Heat

8- 11

t o 85- 9OC and s t i r gent l y unt i l al l

has di sso l ved. Hol d at 70- 8OC.

Pl ace wax bl end

i n

m xi ng cont a i ner , add aqueous phase t o

i t and shear wi t h homom xer or col l oi d m l l . At 53C t he c r ude

di sper s i on i nver t s and a t hi ck cr eamy emul s i on f or ms. Cont i nue

shear i ng whi l e sc r api ng t he s i des o f t he cont ai ner t o make

sur e t he whol e cont ent i s pr oper l y shear ed. Add per f ume,

de- aer at e and package.

Ref :

5011- 18- 6

5 . Lanol i n Al c ohol ( L 101)

5. 0

Gener al Pur pose Wat er / Oi l Cr eam

1 , A- C Pol yet hyl ene 617

2 . 0

2. Beeswax 4. 0

3.

Mi ner al Oi l 15. 0

4 . Ar l ac el

83

5. 5

5. Propyl - P- Hydr oxybenzoat e 0. 1

6.

M e t h y l - P - H y d r o x y b e n z o a t e 0 . 2

7. Sor bi t ol

( 70

5. 0

8.

Bor ax

0. 3

9.

Wat er

67. 9

Pr ocedur e:

a c l oud poi nt o f appr ox i mat el y 80C. Above t he c l oud poi nt al l

waxes wi l l event ual l y di s sol ve i n t he bl end. I f a hi gher

sol vat i ng t emper at ur e i s used , so l vat i on can be much f ast er .

Hol d t he wax bl end at 85C. Heat

5- 9

t o 85- 9OC and s t i r gent l y

unt i l al l has di s s ol ved. Hol d at 85C.

P l ace wax bl end i n m xi ng cont a i ner , add aqueous phase t o i t

and s hear wi t h homom xer or c ol l oi d m l l . At 50C t he c r ude di s -

per s i on i nver t s and a t hi ck cr eamy emul s i on f or ms. Cont i nue

shear i ng whi l e sc rapi ng t he s i des o f t he cont ai ner t o make sur e

t he whol e cont ent

i s

pr oper l y s hear ed. Add per f ume, de- aer at e and

package.

Ref :

5011- 18- 5

SOURCE:

Al l i ed Si gnal I nc . : Sugges t ed For mul at i ons

Wei gh

1-4

and heat t o 85C wi t h s l ow agi t at i on. The bl end has

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 165/553

Creams 143

General Purpose W/O Cream

KtA

1 . A - C

Po l ye th y l ene 617 2 . 0

2 . Beeswax 3 . 0

3 . Rewomid S-280 1

. o

4 .

Amerchol CAB

5 . 0

5 . M i n e r a l O i l 1 1 . o

6 . I s o p r o p y l I s o s t e a r a t e 8 . 8

7 . T r i g l y c e r o l D i i o s t e a r a t e

3 . 0

8 . S o r b i t o l ( 7 0 % ) 5 . 0

9 . Bo rax

0 . 3

10.Germal l 115 0 . 2

11 .Magnes ium S u l f a t e 0 . 3

12. Water 60 .0

Procedure:

Weigh 1 -7 and hea t t o 85C w i t h s l ow a g i t a t i o n . The b l en d

has a c l o u d p o i n t o f a p p r o x im a t e ly 80C. Above t h e c l o u d p o i n t a l l

waxes

w i l l

e v en t ua l l y d i s s o l v e i n t h e b le n d.

I f

a h i g h e r s o l v -

a t i n g t em p e ra t ur e i s used, s o l v a t i o n ca n be much f a s t e r .

Ho l d t h e wax b l en d a t 85C. Hea t 8-12 t o 85-9OC and s t i r g e n t l y

u n t i l a l l has d is s o l v e d . H o ld a t 85C.

P l a c e wax b l e n d i n m i x i n g c o n t a i n e r , add a queous phase t o i t

and s he ar w i t h homomixer o r c o l l o i d m i l l . A t 76C th e c rude d i s -

p e r s i o n i n v e r t s and a t h i c k creamy e m u ls i o n f o r m s . C o n t i n ue

s h e ar i ng w h i l e s c r a p i n g t h e s i d e s o f t h e c o n t a i n e r t o make s u r e

th e whol e co n t en t i s p r op e r l y shea red . Add pe r fume , de -ae ra te and

package

.

General Purpose W/O Cream

y/tv

1 . A - C Po l ye th y l ene 617 2 . 0

2 .

A - C

Copolymer 540 3 . 0

3

Rewomid S-280

1 . o

4 . Amerchol Cab. 5 . 0

5 . M i n e r a l O i l 1 1 . o

6 . I s o p r o p y l I s o s t e a r a t e 8 . 8

7 . T r i g l y c e r o l D i i s o s t e a r a t e

3 . 0

8 .

S o r b i t o l (70%) 5 . 0

9 . Bo rax

0 . 3

10.Germal l 115 0. 2

1 1 .Magnes ium Sul fa te 0 . 3

12. Water 60.0

Procedure:

a c l o u d p o i n t o f a p p r o xi m at e ly 80C. Above t h e c l o u d p o i n t a l l

waxes w i l l e v en t ua l l y d i s s o l v e i n t h e b le n d. I f a h i g h e r s o l v -

a t i n g t e mp e r at u re i s used, s o l v a t i o n ca n be much f a s t e r . H o l d

t h e wax b l e n d a t 85C. H ea t 8 -12 t o 85-9OC and s t i r g e n t l y u n t i l

a l l has d i s s o l v e d . H o l d a t 85C.

P l ace wax b l en d i n m i x i n g co n t a i ne r , add aqueous phase t o

i t

and sh ea r w i t h homomixer o r c o l l o i d m i l l .

A t

76C th e c rude d i sp -

e r s i o n i n v e r t s a nd a t h i c k creamy e m u ls i o n f o r m s . C o n t i n ue

s h e ar in g w h i l e s c r a p i n g t h e s i d e s o f t h e c o n t a i n e r t o make s u re

t h e w h ol e c o n t e n t i s p r o p e r l y s h ea r ed . Add pe rf um e, d e - a e r a te

and package.

SOURCE: A l l i e d S i gna l I n c . : F orm ul a 5011-19 -3 /5011-19 -4

Weigh 1 -7 and hea t t o 85C w i t h s l ow a g i t a t i o n . The b l e nd has

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 166/553

144

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

General Purpose W/O Cream

1 .

A - C Po l ve thv l ene 617

2 . A - c

Copb lym i r

3. Amerchol

L-10

4 .

M i n e r a l O i l

5 . Dow F l u i d

556

6 .

2 -E thy l Hexy l

7 .

A r l a c e l 8 3

8 . S o r b i t o l ( 7 0 %

9 . Bo rax

10.Germal l 115

11 .Wate r

Procedure :

Weigh 1-7 and

a c l o u d o o i n t o f

540

S t e a r a t e

W t %

2 . 0

2 . 0

5 . 0

1 0 . 0

3 . 0

5 . 0

5 . 5

5 . 0

0 . 3

0 . 5

61 . 7

h e a t t o 85C w i t h s l ow a g i t a t i o n . The b l e n d has

a o o r o x im a t e l v 80C. Above t h e c l o u d o o i n t a l l

.

waxes

w i i l

e v e n t u a l l y d i s s o l v e i n th e b l e nd .

I f

a h i g h e r s o l v -

a t i n g t e mp e r at u re i s used, s o l v a t i o n c an b e much f a s t e r . H o ld

t h e wax b l e n d a t 85C. H ea t 8 -1 1 t o 85-9OC and s t i r g e n t l y u n t i l

a l l has d i s s o l v e d . H o ld a t 85C.

P l a c e wax b l e n d i n m i x i n g c o n t a i n e r , add aqueous ph ase t o i t

and shea r w i t h homomixer

o r

c o l l o i d m i l l . A t 79C th e c rude d i sp -

e r s i o n i n v e r t s an d a t h i c k c re am y e m u ls i on f o r m s. C o n ti n ue

s h e a r in g w h i l e s c r a p in g t h e s i d e s o f t h e c o n t a i n e r t o make sure

t h e wh o le c o n t e n t i s p r o p e r l y s he a re d . Add p e rf um e , d e - ae r a te

and package.

General Purpose W/O Cream

W t %

1 . A - C P o l y e t h y l e n e 617 3 . 0

2 . Beeswax 2 . 0

3 . Amerchol 1-101 5 . 0

4 .

M i n e r a l O i l 8 . 2

5 . Dow F l u i d 200-350 cps 1

o

6 .

2 - E t h yl H ex yl S t e a r a t e 1 0 . 0

7 . T r i g l y c e r o l D i i o s t e a r a t e 5 . 5

8 . Propyl-P-Hydroxybenzoate 0 . 1

9 . S o r b i t o l (70%) 5 . 0

10. Borax 0 .3

11.Methyl-P-Hydroxybenzoate

0 . 2

12 .Water 59 .7

Procedure :

a c l o u d p o i n t o f a p p r o x im a t e ly 80C. Above t h e c l o u d p o i n t a l l

waxes w i l l e v e n t u a l l y d i s s o l v e i n t h e b le nd . I f a h i g h e r s o l v -

a t i n g t e m p e r at u r e i s use d, s o l v a t i o n c a n b e much f a s t e r . H o l d

t h e wax b l en d a t 85C. Hea t 9-12 t o 85-9OC and s t i r g en t l y

u n t i l a l l has d i s s o l v e d . H ol d a t 85C.

P l a c e wax b l e n d i n m i x i n g c o n t a i n e r , add aqueous p ha se t o

i t and shear w i t h homomixer o r c o l l o i d m i l l . A t 68C t h e c ru de

d i s p e r s i o n i n v e r t s a nd a t h i c k creamy em u ls io n f or m s. C o n t i nu e

s h e a r in g w h i l e s c r a p i n g t h e s i d e s o f t h e c o n t a i n e r t o make s u re

t h e wh o le c o n t e n t i s p r o p e r l y s h ea re d . Add pe rf um e , d e - a e r a t e

and package.

SOURCE: A l l i e d S i gn a l I n c . : F o rmu l as Re f . 5011-20 -4 /5011 -22-1

Weigh 1 -8 and hea t t o 85C w i t h s l ow ag i t a t i o n . The b l e nd has

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 167/553

Creams 145

General Purpose W/O Cream

1 . A - C P o l y e t h y l e n e 617 3 . 0

2 . Beeswax 2 . 0

3 . Amerchol L-101

5 . 0

4 . M i ne ra l O i l ,

7 0

v i s . 8 . 2

5 . Dow F l u i d 200, 350 c s . 1

. o

6 .

2 - E t h y l H e xy l S t e a r a t e 1 0 . 0

7 . T r i g l y c e r o l D i i o s t e a r a t e

5 . 5

8 . P ropy l -P -Hyd roxybenzoa t e 0 . 1

9 . S o r b i t o l (70%) 5 . 0

10.Sodium Bo ra te , Anhydrous 0 . 3

11.Methyl-P-Hydroxybenzoate 0.2

12.Germal l 115 0. 3

13. Water 59 .4

a c l o u d p o i n t o f a p p r o xi m at e ly 80C. Above t h e c l o u d p o i n t a l l

waxes

w i l l

e v e n t ua l l y d i s s o l v e i n t h e b le nd .

I f

a h i g h e r s o l v -

a t i n g t em p e ra t ur e i s used, s o l v a t i o n c an be much f a s t e r . H o ld t h e

wax b l e n d a t 85C. Heat 9-13 t o 85-9OC and s t i r g e n t l y u n t i l a l l

h as d i s s o l v e d . H o l d a t 85C.

P l a c e wax b l e n d i n m i x i n g c o n t a i n e r , a dd a qu eo us pha se t o i t

a nd s h ea r w i t h homomixer o r c o l l o i d m i l l . A t 67C t h e c r u d e d i s p -

e r s i o n i n v e r t s a nd a t h i c k cr ea my e m u ls i on f o rm s . C o n t i n u e

s h e a r in g w h i l e s c r a p in g t h e s i d e s o f t h e c o n t a i n e r t o make s u re

t h e w h ol e c o n t e n t i s p r o p e r l y s h ea re d . Add p e rf um e, d e - a e r a t e

and package.

Weigh 1 -8 and h e a t t o 85C w i t h s l o w a g i t a t i o n . The b l e n d ha s

General Purpose W/O Cream

W B

1 .

A - C

P o l y e t h y l e n e 617 3 . 5

2.

A - C

Copolymer 540 1 . 5

3 . Beeswax 2 .0

4 . L a n t r o l 9 . 5

5 . M i n e r a l O i l , 70 v i s . 1 5 . 0

6 . I s o p r o p y l S t e a r a t e 1 0 .0

7 . 2 - E t h y l H e xy l S t e a r a t e 1 0 . 0

8 . A r l a c e l 83 5 . 5

9 . Propyl-P-Hydroxybenzoate 0 . 1

10 . So rb i t o 1 (70%) 7 . 0

11 .Borax 0 . 3

12.Magnesi um S u l f a t e 0 . 3

13.Methyl-P-Hydroxybenzoate 0 . 2

14.Germal l 115 0 . 2

15 .Water 34.9

Weigh 1 -9 a nd h e a t t o 85C w i t h s l o w a g i t a t i o n . T h i s wax

b l e n d h as a c l o u d p o i n t o f a p p r o x i m a t e l y 80C. Above t h e c l o u d

p o i n t a l l waxes w i l l e v e n t ua l l y d i s s o l v e i n b l e nd .

I f

a h i g h e r

t e m p e ra t u r e i s used, t h e s o l v a t i o n c a n b e much f a s t e r . H o l d t h e

wax b l en d a t 80-85C. Heat 10-15 t o 85-9OC and s t i r g e n t l y u n t i l

a l l i s d i s s o l v ed . H ol d a t 85C.

P l a c e wax b l e n d i n m i x i n g c o n t a i n e r , ad d aqueous p ha se t o i t

an d s he a r w i t h homomixer o r c o l l o i d m i 11 . A t approx imate l y 80C

th e c rude d i sp e r s i on i n v e r t s . Some wa te r may not b e c o m p l e t e l y

t ak en up a t t h i s p o i n t b u t c o nt in u e d s h e ar i ng w i l l i n c o r p o r a t e i t

SOURCE: A l l i e d S i gn al I n c . : Formula Ref :5011-24-2/Ref : 5011-24-4

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 168/553

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 169/553

Creams

147

General Purpose W /O Cream

W S

1 .

A - C

Po lye th y le ne 617A 3 .0

2. Beeswax 2 . 0

3 . N i m l e s t e r o l D 5 . 0

4 . M i n e r a l

O i l ,

70 v i s . 8 . 2

5 . Dow F l u i d 200-350 cps 1

. o

6 . 2 - E t h yl H e xy l S t e a r a t e 1 0 . 0

7. Emerest 2452 5 . 5

8 . Propyl-P-Hydroxybenzoate 0 . 1

9 . S o r b i t o l (70%)

5 . 0

1 0 .

Borax 0 . 3

11.Methyl-P-Hydroxybenzoate 0 . 2

12.Water 59.7

a c l o u d p o i n t o f a p p r o xi m at e ly 80C. Above t h e c l o u d p o i n t a l l

waxes w i l l e v e n t u a l l y d i s s o l v e i n t h e b le n d. I f

a

h i g h e r s o l v -

a t i n g t e m p e ra t u r e i s used, s o l v a t i o n c a n b e much f a s t e r . H o l d

t h e wax b l e n d a t 05C. He at 9-1 2 t o 85-9OC and s t i r g e n t l y u n t i l

a l l has d i s s o l v e d . H o ld a t 85C.

P l ace wax b l en d i n m i x i ng co n t a i ne r , add aqueous phase t o i t

and s h ea r w i t h homomixer o r c o l l o i d m i l l . A t 68C t h e c r u d e d i s p

e r s i o n i n v e r t s a nd a t h i c k creamy e mu l si o n f o rm s . C o n ti n ue

s h e ar i ng w h i l e s c r a p in g t h e s i d e s o f t h e c o n t a i n e r t o make s u r e

t h e wh o le c o n t e n t i s p r o p e r l y s he a re d . Add pe r fu m e, d e - a e r a t e

and package.

Weigh 1 -0 and hea t t o 85C w i t h s l ow a g i t a t i o n . The b l end has

M inera l O il Cream W /O

ut3

1 . A - C Po l ye thy l ene 617

3 . 0

2 . A - C Copolymer

540

1 . o

3 . Beeswax 2 . 0

4 . M i n e r a l

O i l ,

70 v i s . 2 5 . 0

5 . I s o p r o p y l S t e a r a t e 3 . 0

6 . 2 - E t h yl H ex yl S t e a r a t e 9 . 4

7 . T r i g l y c e r o l D i

i

o s t e a r a t e 3 . 5

0 . P r o p y l - P - H y d r o x y b e n z o a t e 0 . 2

9 . S o r b i t o l (70%) 7 . 0

10.Sodium Bora te , Anhydrous 0 . 3

11.Methyl-P-Hydroxybenzoate 0 . 3

12 .Magnes ium Su l fa te

0 . 3

13.Water 45.0

a c l o u d p o i n t o f a p p r o xi m at e ly 80C. Above t h e c l o u d p o i n t a l l

waxes

w i l l

e v e n t u a l l y d i s s o l v e i n t h e b le nd . I f a h i g h e r s o l v -

a t i n g t e m pe r a tu r e i s u sed, s o l v a t i o n c an be much f a s t e r . H o ld

t h e wax b l e n d a t 05C. H ea t 9-1 3 t o 85-9OC a nd s t i r g e n t l y u n t i l

a l l has d i s s o l v e d . H o ld a t 85C.

P l a c e wax b l e n d i n m i x i n g c o n t a i n e r , a dd aqueous p ha se t o i t

and shear w i t h homomixer or c o l l o i d m i l l . A t 77C t h e c r u d e d i s p -

e r s i o n i n v e r t s an d a t h i c k creamy e mu l si o n f or m s. C o n ti n ue

s h e a r in g w h i l e s c r a p in g t h e s i d e s o f t h e c o n t a i n e r t o make s u re

t h e w ho le c o n t e n t i s p r o p e r l y s h e ar e d. Add pe r fu m e, d e -a e r ea t e

and package.

SOURCE: A l l i e d S i g n a l I n c . : Formula R e f 5011-22-1A/5011-22-4

Weigh

1 - 3

and h e a t t o 85C w i t h s lo w a g i t a t i o n . The b l e n d ha s

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 170/553

148 Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations

General Purpose W/O Cream

KtB

1 . A - C Po l y e th y l e ne 617A 2 .0

2. A - C Copolymer 540 3 . 0

3 .

Beeswax 2.0

4 . M i n e r a l O i l , 70 v i s . 1 5 . 0

5 . Dow F l u i d 334 9 .5

6 . I s o p r o p y l S t e a r a t e 1 0. 0

7 . 2 -E thy l Hexyl S te a ra te 10 .0

8 . A r l a c e l 83 5 . 5

9 . P r o p y l - P - H y d r o x y b e n z o a t e 0 . 1

1 0 . S o r b i t o l (70%) 7 . 0

11 .Borax 0 .3

12 .Magnesi um S u l f a t e 0.3

13.Methyl-P-Hydroxybenzoate 0 . 2

14 .Germal l 115 0 .2

1 5 .Water 34 .9

Procedure:

a c l o u d p o i n t o f a p p r o xi m at e ly 80C. Above t h e c l o u d p o i n t a l l

waxes w i l l e v e n t ua l l y d i s s o lv e i n t h e b le nd . I f a h i g h e r s o l v -

a t i n g t e m p er a tu r e i s u se d, s o l v a t i o n c a n b e much f a s t e r . H o l d

t h e wax b l e n d a t 85C. H ea t 10 -1 5 t o 85-9OC an d s t i r g e n t l y u n t i l

a l l has d i s s o l v e d . H o ld a t 85C.

and sh e ar w i t h h omomixer o r c o l l o i d m i l l . A t 80C th e c rude d i s p -

e r s i o n i n v e r t s a nd a t h i c k creamy e m u ls i on f or m s . C o n t i n u e

s h e a r in g w h i l e s c r a p in g t h e s i d e s o f t h e c o n t a i n e r t o make s u r e

t h e wh o le c o n t e n t i s p r o p e r l y s h ea re d. Add p er fu me , d e - a e r a te

and package.

R ef : 501 1-31 -2

Weigh 1 -9 a nd h e a t t o 85C w i t h s l o w a g i t a t i o n . The b l e n d h as

P l a c e wax b l e n d i n m i x i n g c o n t a i n e r , a dd aqueous ph ase t o i t

Oil-In-Water Cream and Its Scrub Derivat ive

1 . A - C 617 Po l y e th y l en e 2 .0%

2 . S t e a r i c A c i d 0 . 5

3 . Lanogene ( l a n o l i n a l c o h o l

&

m in er a l o i l ) 6 .0

4 .

I s o p r o p y l p a l m i t a t e 1 2. 5

5 . S o r b i t a n M o no s te a ra te 1 . 3

6 .

P o l y o x y e t h y l e n e 20 S o r b i t a n M o n os t ea r a te 1 . 8

7 . Sorbo ( s o r b i t o l 7 0 , water 30%) 5 . 0

8. Carbopo l

940

1 . o

9 . Gerrnaben I 1 0.8

10. Water 68. 35

11 . T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e

0 . 7 5

12.Per fume Q.S.

Procedure :

Weigh 1-6, th en weigh

7 - 1 0 .

He at 7-10 w i t h a g i t a t i o n u s i n g

a homomixer o r c o l l o i d m i l l . When th e aqueous s o l u t i o n reaches

85C, h ea t o i l phase t o 90-95C w i t h s lo w a g i t a t i o n u n t i l a l l t h e

wax h as d i s s o l v e d . Combine 1-1 0 and s h ea r u n t i l m i x t u r e i s

homogeneous. Add 11 and shear w e l l . Cool t o 55C and add 12.

SOURCE: A l l i e d S i g n a l I n c . : Suggested F o r mu l at i on s

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 171/553

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 172/553

15 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Gentle Night Repair Cream

T h i s p r o d u c t e n c a ps u la t e s an a c t i v e i n g r e d i e n t w hi ch c an

d ec re as e t h e o x i d a t i o n of a p rec i ou s compound t h e re by i nc re as i n g

s h e l f l i f e and r e du c i n g t h e chance of r a n c i d i t y . The em ul si on

i s v e ry s t a b l e , q u i c k l y p e n et r at e s t h e s k i n and le av es a s i l k y

f e e l .

O i l

Phase:

Cera B e l l i n a (Pg-3 Beeswax, Kos ter Keunen) 7 .10%

O z o k e r i t e Wax 160/164 (K os te r Keunen) 2.20%

L i g h t M i ne r a l

O i l

(Wi tco) 7 .60%

Iso p r op y l Pa l m i t a te (Un ichema) 3 .00%

Gl yc e r i ne M onos tea ra te (Henkel ) 1.20%

PEG-100 S te a r a t e ( L i po) 1.00%

E m u l s i f y i n g Wax NF (K o s te r Keunen) 1.0 0%

V i t a m i n E (Roche) 0.10%

V i t a m i n A P a lm i t a te (BASF) 0.10%

S a f f l o w e r O i l ( L i po ) 2 .00%

L i quapa r (Su t t on ) 0 .50%

Wheat Germ O i l (L ipo) 3 .00%

Squalane (Centerchem) 2.00%

P ro p yl en e G l y c o l D i o c t a n a t e ( I n o l e x ) 4.00%

S i l i c o n e 200/100 (Dow) 2 .00%

Water Phase:

Water ( D i s t i 1 e d ) 35.8%

Met hy l Paraben (S ut to n) 0 .30%

Sodi um Bo ra te (Bo rax ) 0.60%

Ca rb op ol 940 2% 10.00%

Act i ve Phase :

Phenoni p (N i pa ) 0.50%

H y a l u r o n i c A c i d ( A c t i v e O r g an i cs ) 1

.OO%

Firming Liposome (Centerchem) 4.00

APT

(Centerchem) 3.00%

Procedure:

H ea t t h e com po nen ts o f t h e o i l ph ase, m ix a nd m a i n t a i n a t a

t e m p e r at u r e o f 82C. I n a s e p a r a te v e s s e l d i s s o l v e t h e com po nen ts

o f t h e wa te r phase w h i l e m i x i n g and i n c r e a s i n g t h e t e mp e r at u re

t o 80C. Add t h e o i l p ha se t o t h e w a t e r p h as e u n de r m o de ra te

a g i t a t i o n , and c o o l s l o w l y w h i l e m i x i n g . When a t e mp e ra t u re o f

40C i s m ixed, add phenon ip . Cool t o 35C and add t h e th re e ac -

t i v e s . C oo l t o room t e m p e r at u r e .

Adap t i on o f f or mu la and i t s i n f l u e n c e

on

t h e p r od u c t :

You ca n s u b s t i t u t e y ou r p r e f e r r e d s ec on da ry e m u l s i f i e r and

some o i l s w i t h o n l y s l i g h t changes t o v i s c o s i t y , g l o s s , e t c .

The co nc en t r a t i o n o f Cera B e l l i n a (CTFA=Pg-3 Beeswax) can on ly

be s l i g h t l y a l t e r e d s in ce

i t

h e l p s c o n t r o l c o n s i st e n c y and t h e

m i c e l l e s i z e and shape. The w at er s o l u b l e b i o l o g i c a l l y a c t i v e

i n g r e d i e n t s a re w e l l p r o t e c t e d i n t h i s t y pe o f e mu ls io n a l l o w i n g

you t o i n c o r p o r a t e a w id e r a n ge o f a c t i v e compounds. A f o rm u l a -

t i o n o f t h i s t yp e i s n o t a f f e ct e d by i o n i c s t r e n g t h .

SOURCE: Kos te r Keunen, I n c . : Suggested Fo rm u l a t i on

In cr o po l SC-20 (Croda) 4.00%

I s o s te a r i c Ac i d (Un ichema)

4 . 0 0 %

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 173/553

Creams

151

Glossy Cream

I n a r e d i e n t s :

A S t e a r y l a l c o h o l

B r i j 721s

B Wate r , de i on i zed

Carbopol 934

0

10.00

4 . 0 0

85.50

0 . 1 0

C Sod ium hydrox ide (10 W / W aqueous)

0 . 1 0

D D o w i c i l 2 0 0 0 . 1 0

E

F rag rance 0 .20

Procedure :

b l a d e t y p e a g i t a t i o n . Add ( C ) . Add

( D )

when t h e t em p era tu r e

drops below 50C.

Add

( E )

below 40C. Add wat er t o compensate

f o r e v a po r a t i o n.

Hom ogen ize. A d j us t pH t o 5 .5 - 6 .5 .

Heat (A) t o 70C and ( B ) t o 75C. Add ( B ) t o (A) s l o w ly u s i n g

Glossy Cream

I n a r e d i e n t s :

A I s o p r o p y l m y r i s t a t e

S t e a r y l a l c o h o l

B r i j 721s

B r i j 72

%w/w

12.00

4.00

2.80

2 . 2 0

B Water , d e i on i zed 78 .80

C

D o w i c i l 2 0 0

0 . 1 0

D Fragrance 0 . 1 0

Procedure:

Heat (A) t o 70C and ( B ) t o 75C w i t h g ood p r o p e l l e r a g i t -

a t i o n . Add (C) a t 50C and mix th or ou gh ly . Add (D) a t 35C. Add

w a te r t o compensate f o r l o s s due t o e v a p o r a t i o n .

SOURCE:

IC1

S u r f a c t a n t s :

S u g g e s t e d

F o r m u l a t i o n s

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 174/553

152

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Glycolic

Acid Cream

A r i c h cream w i t h t h e b e n e f i t s

o f

an a lpha-hydroxy a c i d .

I n c o r p o r a t i o n o f Ge ah le ne 750 h e l p s m o i s t u r i z e t h e s k i n and

g i v e s i t a r i c h , s i l k y a f t e r f e e l .

Innred ien t /T rade Name:

De io n i zed Water

Maanesium Aluminum Si l i ca t e /V eea um U l t r a

Xanthan Gum/Kel t r o l

Methy lparaben

Bu ty l ene G1y c o l

Tetrasodium EDTA/Hamp-Ene

220

M i n e r a l O i l (and) Hydrogenated But y len e /E thy len e /

Sty re ne Copolymer (and) Hydrogenated Et hy le ne /

Pro py l ene /Sty ren e Copolymer / /Geahlene 750

-

DEA-Cetyl Phosphate/Amphisol

C12-15

A 1

k y l Benzoate /F i n so lv TN

Propy lparaben

C e t y l A l c o h o l / L a n e t t e 1 6

S t e a r i c

A c i

d/Emersol 132

D i

azo1 i i ny l Urea /Germal l

G l y c o l i Ac i d/G1 y pu re 70%

Dei o n i zed Water

Sodi um H yd ro xi d e

Wei q h t%

61 . O O

1 . o o

0 . 3 0

0.20

5 . 00

0.10

9-00

2 .00

5 . 0 0

0 . 1 0

2 .00

4.00

0 . 3 0

8 . 0 0

1 . o o

1 . o o

Procedure:

D i sp e r se Veegum i n r a p i d l y a g i t a t e d d e i o n i z e d w a te r ( p a r t A ) .

Add K e l t r o l . H eat t o 80C. M ix u n t i l u n i f o r m . I n a s e p ar a te co n t-

a i n e r , h ea t p a r t B t o 8OC and mix u n t i l a l l t h e s o l i d s a r e d i s s -

o l v e d . Add p a r t B t o p a r t A . M i x f o r 30 m in u te s u n t i l c o m pl e te l y

homogeneous. Cool t o 50C. Add p a r t C and m ix w e l l . Add p remixed

p a r t D . C on t i nu e m i x i n g and c o o l i n g t o 3 0 C . Add f ra gr an ce a t 30C

i f d e s i r e d .

SOURCE: Penreco : Sugges ted For mu l a t i o n

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 175/553

Creams

153

Hand and Body Cream

A r i c h , p r o t e c t i v e hand and body cream d e si gn e d t o r e l i e v e

d ryness and l eave t h e sk i n s o f t and s i l k y smooth. Geahlene 750

p r o vi d es l o n g - l a s t i ng moi s t u r i z a t i on , a p e r c e p t i b l e c o n d i t i o n i n g

e f f e c t , and an e le g an t a f t e r f e e l .

Innred ient /T rade Name:

De ion i zed Water

Carbomer/CarboDol 940

Pro pyle ne G1 y c o l

Methy lparaben

Panthenol /DL-Panthenol

M i n e r a l O i l (and) Hydrogenated Buty len e /E thy lene /

Sty ren e Copolymer (and) Hydro genated Eth y len e/

Pro pyl ene /St yre ne Copolymer//Geahlene 750

Propy l ene G l yco l

D i

c a p r r y l a t e / D i c a p r a t e / /M y r i t o 1

PC

I s o s t e a r y l A l c oh c l

/ P r i

s o r i ne 351 5

Propy lparaben

C e t y l A l c o h o l / L a n e t t e 16

G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e ( an d) P E G - 1 0 0 S t e a r a t e / A r l a c e l 1 6 5

Po ta ss i um C e t y l Phosphate/Amphi s o l K

T o c o p h e r y l A c e t a t e / V i t a m i n E A c e t a t e

T r ie thano lam ine , 99%

D i a z o l i d i n y l U r e a / G e r m a l l

I 1

Soy Lecithin/Sedermasome

Fragrance

Wei u h t%

70.60

0.20

7.00

0.20

0 . 1 0

7 . 0 0

5.00

2.00

0 .10

2.00

2 . 5 0

1 . 7 5

0.10

0 .15

0 . 2 0

1 . 0 0

0.10

Procedure:

D i s p e rs e Carbomer i n t o r a p i d l y a g i t a t e d d e i o n i z ed w a t e r . Add

r em a in in g p a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s . Heat t o 75-80C and m ix u n t i l u n i -

fo rm and lump- f ree . Combine p a r t B . Heat t o 80C and m ix u n t i l a l l

t h e s o l i d s a r e d i s s o l v e d . Add p a r t B t o p a r t

A .

M i x f o r 30

m in u te s w i t h good a g i t a t i o n . Add p a r t

C .

M ix u n t i l c o m p le t e l y

smooth and homogeneous. Cool t o 50C. Add p a r t

D .

Cool t o 40C. Add

p a r t E . C o n ti n ue m i x i n g and c o o l i n g t o 30C.

SOURCE: Penreco : Suggested Form u l a t i on

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 176/553

154 Cosmetic

and

Toiletry Formulations

High Content Mineral Oil Cream

I n a r e d i e n t s :

A

M i n e r a l o i 1 , ( C a r n a t i o n b r a n d )

B r i j 721s

B r i j

72

70.00

3.70

3 . 3 0

B Water , d e i on i zed 22.60

C Sodium h yd ro xi de (10% aqueous) 0.10

D D o w i c i l 200 0.10

E

H e r b a l f r a g r a n c e (SL 79-1224,

P W )

0.20

Procedure:

m oderate ancho r t yp e a g i t a t i o n and add

( C ) .

Add

( D )

a t a b o u t

50C.

Add ( E) a t 35C and add wa te r t o compensate f o r l o s s due

t o e va p or a t i on .

Formula PC-9026

Heat (A) t o 65C and ( B ) t o

60C.

Add ( A ) t o ( 8 ) s l ow l y w i t h

O/W Pet ro la tum Cream

I n q r e d i e n t s

:

A P e t r o l a t u m , w h i t e

B r i j 721, POE 21 s t e a r y l e t h e r

B r i j

72,

POE

2

s t e a r y l e t h e r

Dimeth icone (350 c s . )

B Water , de i on i zed

Carbomer 934

%w/w

35.00

1 .oo

4.00

3.00

56.70

0.10

C

NaOH, 10% a q u e o u s s o l u t i o n

0.10

D Germal l I 1 0.10

Procedure:

an cho r s t i r r i n g . Add

( C ) .

Add

( D )

below

50C.

S t i r

t o 35C and

add any wa t e r l o s t due t o e v a p o r a t i o n .

Formula CP 1090

SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : S u u u e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n s

Heat ( A ) t o 70C and (8 ) t o 72C. Add (B) to ( A ) w i t h m o d e r a t e

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 177/553

C r e a m

155

Hydrocortisone C ream

I n Q r e d i e n t s : %w/w

Phase A :

Pr op yl ene G1 y c o l 5. 0

G l y c e r i n 2 . 5

Water 10.0

H y d r o c o r t i s o n e USP ( 0 . 5 / 1

. O )

Phase B:

Water

Q . S .

P r e s e r v a t i v e s

Q . S .

Phase

C :

P o l y g l y c e r y l - 3 M e t h y l g l u c o s e D i s t e a r a t e (Tego Care 45 0)

3 . 0

O c t y l S t e a r a t e ( T e go s o f t O S ) 6 . 0

O c t y l P a l m i t a t e ( T e go s o ft OP) 5 .0

M i n e r a l O i l 5 .5

G1 yc er y l S t ea ra te (Teg i n M) 1 .B

S t e a r y l A1 coho1 0 . 8

Ce ty l D imeth i cone ( A b i l Wax 9801) 1

. o

Phase D:

Fragrance Q . S .

Procedure:

1 .

2 .

3.

4 .

5.

6 .

Mix Phase A t o d i s s o l v e t h e a c t i v e .

Add t h e b a l a n c e o f t h e w a t e r o f Phase B p l u s t h e p r e s e r v -

a t i v e s . ( A l l o w f o r w a te r l o s s d u r i n g m an u f ac t ur i ng ) . Heat

A/B t o 70C.

Add t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase C . M i x . M a i n t a i n t em p e ra t ur e

o f 70C.

B e gi n c o o l i n g when f u l l y d i s p e r s e d . B e g i n h o mo g en iz at io n

a t 60C.

Homogenize w h i l e c o o l i n g t o 35C

Add f r ag ra nc e w i t h sweep m i x e r .

All Natural Cream

W/O type)

I n Q r e d i e n t s :

Phase A :

P o l y g l y c e r y l - 3 O le a te ( I s o l a n GO 33) 4.0

Hydrogenated Castor O i l 1 .5

Beeswax 1.5

O c t y l S t e a r a t e ( T e g os o ft O S ) 11 .5

C e t e a r y l O c ta n oa te ( T e g o s of t L i q u i d ) 1 1 . 5

Phase B:

G1 y c e r i n 2 . 5

D-panthenol 0 .5

Magnesium S u l f a t e 0 .5

Water 66.5

Phase C :

F rag rance Q . S .

Procedure:

1. A d d t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase

A

t o a m ix t a n k . H ea t t o 80-85C

2 . M i x t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase B. H ea t t o 6 5-70C.

3 . Add Phase 0 t o Phase A . Homogen ize and coo l t o 40C w i t h m ix in g

4 . Add t h e f rag ran ce . Coo l and f i l l .

SOURCE: Goldschmidt Chemical Corp.: Sugges ted Formu la t i ons

and d is pe rs e th e waxes. Cool t o 65-70C.

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 178/553

I56

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Hydrogen Peroxide Cream

I n s r e d i e n t s :

A S t e a r i c ac id , t r i p l e pre ssed

6.00

A r l a c e l 60 2 .00

Tween 60

3.00

B Water , de i on i zed

71.72

Phenacet in

0 .04

Disodium e t h y l e n e d i a r n i n e t e t r a - a c e t a t e

d i h y d r a t e 0 .1 0

C H yd ro ge n p e r o x i d e , 35% d i l u t i o n g ra d e

17.14

D Phosphor i c ac id , 10% C . P . , as r e q u i r e d

Procedure :

Heat (A) t o 70C. Heat

(8)

o 72C. Add

( B )

t o (A ) s l ow l y

w i t h th o r ou g h a g i t a t i o n . Co ol t o 45C. w i t h a g i t a t i o n . Compen-

s a t e f o r l o s t w a te r due t o e v a p o r a t i o n . Add ( C ) . A d j u s t pH t o

3 . 5 - 4 . 0 b y a d d i n g

( D ) .

Hydrogen Peroxide Cream

I n g r e d i e n t s :

A C e t y l a l c o h o l

A r l a c e l 4 0

Tween 40

B

Water , de i on i zed

C

H ydro ge n p e r o x i d e (10 % d i l u t i o n g r ad e )

D Phospho r i c ac i d (10% C . P . ) as r e q u i r e d

10.00

2 .00

3 .00

17.14

67.86

Procedure :

w i t h th o r ou g h a g i t a t i o n . Cool t o 45C. w i t h a g i t a t i o n . Compensate

f o r l o s t w a te r due t o e v a p o r a t i o n . Add ( C ) . A d j u s t p H t o 3 .5 -4 .0

by addin g (D) .

Heat (A) t o 70C. Heat

(8)

o 72C. Add (8) o ( A ) s l o w l y

Hydrogen Peroxide Cream

I n q r e d i e n t s :

A

C e t y l a l c o h o l

B Water , de i on i zed

C Hydrogen perox ide (10% d i l u t i o n g rade)

D

Phospho r ic a c i d (10% C .P .) a5 r eq u i re d

A r l a c e l 1 6 5

&y

10.00

2 .50

70.36

17.14

Procedure :

Heat (A) t o 70C. Heat ( B ) t o 72C. Add ( 8 ) t o ( A) s l o w l y w i t h

t h or o u gh a g i t a t i o n . C ool t o 45C. w i t h a g i t a t i o n . Compensate f o r

l o s t w a t er d ue t o e v a p o r a t i o n . Add ( C ) . Add ( C ) . A d j u s t pH t o

3 .5 -4 .0 by add i ng ( D ) .

SOURCE:

I C 1

S u r f a c t a n t s : S ug ge st ed F o r m u l a t i o n s

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 179/553

Creams 157

Hydroxy Acid Cream

(W/O Emuls ion)

I n g r e d i e n t s :

Phase A:

P o l y g l y c e r y l - 4 I s o s t e a r a t e ( a n d) C e t y l D i me t hi c on e C o p ol y ol

(and) Hexy l La ur at e ( A b i l WE-09) 5 . 5

Ce ty l D imeth ic one ( A b i l Wax

9801)

1

. o

Cyc 1omet h

i

one

5 .0

Isohexadecane 4.0

O c t y l S t e a r a t e ( T e g o s o f t O S ) 5 .0

S tea ry l Hep tanoa te (T egoso f t

SH)

2 .5

Beeswax 0 . 6

Hydrogenated Cas to r O i l 0 . 6

Phase 8:

Water 6 7 . 7

Sodium Ch l o r i d e 0 . 6

L a c t i c A c i d (44% S o l u t i o n )

5 . 0

Sodium S a l i c y l a t e 1 . 5

P r e s e r v a t i v e s Q . S .

Sodium L a c ta t e (and) Sodium PCA ( and ) G l yc i n e (and )

F ru c tos e (and ) I n o s i t o l ( and ) Sodium Benzoate (and )

L a c t i c A c i d ( L a c t i l ) 1

. o

Phase C :

Fragrance Q . S .

Procedure :

1 . Heat Phase A i n a c lo se d k e t t l e t o 85C, m ix in g u n t i l

a l l components a r e f u l l y d i s p e r s e d o r s o l u b i l i z e d . When

un i fo r m, co o l t o 45-5OC.

2 . M ix t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase

B

t o ge th er . Heat t o 40-45C.

3. Add B t o A s l o w ly w i t h s o f t p r o p e l l e r a g i t a t i o n (150-250

4. Homogenize a t 35-40C. 5. Add f ragrance .

RPM's). M i x u n t i l u n i f o r m .

Moistur iz ing Cream

Cold Process

W/O

I n a r e d i e n t s :

Phase

A:

P o l y g l y c e r y l - 4 I s o s t e a r a t e (a nd ) C e t y l D im e th ic o ne

Copo lyo l (and) Hexyl La ur a te ( A b i l WE-09) 5 .0

M i n e r a l O i l 5 .0

C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e s ( T eg o s of t CT) 5 . 0

I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e ( T e go so f t

M )

5 .0

Phase 8:

Water 79.2

Sod ium Ch lo r ide 0.8

P r e s e r v a t i v e s Q.S.

Perfume

Q . S .

C o l o r Q . S .

Procedure :

1 .

M ix t h e o i l s o f Phase

A

t o g e t h e r . M i x w e l l . 2. D i s s o l v e t h e

3 .

Add Phase 6 s l o w l y i n t o Phase A

w i t h

a g i t a t i o n . 4 . Homogenize

5 . P re se r va t i ve s , pe r fum e and c o l o r can be added a t any t i m e .

SOURCE: Goldschmidt Chemica l Corp.: Suggested Formulat ions

sodium c h l o r i d e i n t h e w at er . M ix u n t i l u n i f or m.

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 180/553

158

Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations

Light Texture Hand Creme

T h i s h i g h h um ec ta nt creme p r o v i d e s a no n -g r ea s y, l o n g l a s t i n g

s o o th i ng f e e l .

P a r t A :

Phosphol i i d SV

Stea re th -20

G1 yce r i

Methyl Paraben

Water

P a r t :

S t e a r e t h - 2

C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l

M yr i s t y l M yr i s t a t e

F i n s o l v

TN

I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e

D i m e th i cone (100 c S )

Propy l Paraben

% B Y Weiaht

3 . 0 0

0 .45

5 . 0 0

0 . 2 5

77.75

0 . 8 0

3 . 5 0

3 .50

1 . 5 0

3 . 0 0

1

. o o

0.25

Procedure:

Hea t bo th phases t o 65C, and homogen ize t h e o i l phase i n t o

t h e w a t e r p ha se . S t i r - c o o l t o 40C and add f r a g r a n c e , c o l o r i n g

o r p r e s e r va t i ve

Th

exce l

n i g h t

s e l e g a n t

e n t r u b o

s k i n c a r e .

a s r e q u i r e d .

Facial Moisture Creme

f o r m u l a t i o n p r o v id e s h i g h mo

f r e s i s ta n ce , and i s i d e a l l y

P a r t

A :

Phosphol i i d SV

Stea re th -20

Methy l Paraben

Water

P a r t

0 :

S t e a r e t h - 2

C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l

M yr i s t y l M yr i s t a t e

I s o p r op y l M y r i s t a t e

Dimethicone (1OOcS)

L a n o l i n A l c o h o l

Propy l Paraben

Procedure:

s t u r i z a t i n,

s u i t e d f o r o ve r-

%

B Y

Weiaht

3 . 0 0

0 .20

0 . 2 5

81 - 5 0

1 . 3 0

4 .00

4.00

4.00

1 - 0 0

0 . 5 0

0 . 2 5

Heat bo th phases t o 65C, and homogen ize t h e o i l phase i n t o

t h e w at e r ph as e. S t i r - c o o l t o 40C and add f r a g r a n c e , c o l o r i n g

o r p r e s e r v a t i v e as r e q u i r e d .

SOURCE: Mona I n d u s t r i e s , I n c . : P h o s p h o l i p i d

S V :

Suggested

F o r m u 1a t i n s

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 181/553

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 182/553

16 Cosmetic

and

Toiletry

Formulations

Multi-functional Day Cream

T h i s Bee 's M i l k f o rm u l a t i o n c re a t es a b a r r i e r t h a t e f f e c t i v e l y

r e p l e n i s h e s m o is t ur e , s o f t e n s an d i m p a r t s r a d i a n c e . T h i s w i l l

combat d r y s k i n ca used by v a r i a t i o n s i n h u m i d i t y and

w i l l

h e l p

t o m in im iz e t h e s i gn s

o f

a g i n g .

Water Phase I:

Bermocol E 481 (Wh i t t ake r )

G lycer ine (Un ichema)

Water ( D i s t i l l e d )

T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e

O i l Phase:

N i k ko l Lec i no l S-10-M (Ba rne t )

Squa l ane (Po l ye s t he r )

Macademia Nut

O i l

( T r i - K )

Borage

O i l

( T r i - K )

V i t a m i n E (BASF)

V i t a m i n

A

Palmi ta te (BASF)

Ke st er Wax-62 ( K o s t e r Keunen)

Gl yc er o l Monos teara te (Kos te r Keun

Oz ok er i te 158 /160 (K os te r Keunen)

Cera A lb a la t e 103 ( Ko s t e r Keunen)

P h y t o g l y c o l i p i d ( B ar n et )

L i q u i p a r (S u t t o n )

Water Phase

11:

Bee ' s M i l k (Ko s te r Keunen)

en 1

0 . 4 %

2 .7%

52.1%

0.2%

2.1%

7.9%

4.3%

2.9%

0.3%

0.3%

1.0%

0 .2

0.3%

0.3%

4.0%

1 . 0 %

2 0 . 0 %

Procedure :

o i l phase components, hea t t i l l 75C and m ix . Add s lo w ly t h e

water phase I t o t h e o i l p hase u nd er a g i t a t i o n ( ap p ro x. 700

rpm) m a i n t a i n i n g m i x i n g a te m p e r a t ur e o f 75C f o r 5 minutes

(make su re t h a t m ix in g does n o t exceed 800 rp m 's , as

a

phase

i n v e r s i o n w i l l o c c u r ) . A l l o w t o c o o l t o 50-55C, add w a t er ph as e

I1 a t room tem pera tu re , under m odera te a g i t a t i o n (app rox . 200

r p m ' s) , c o n t in u e m i x i n g f o r 5 m in u te s and p ou r i n t o c o n t a i n e r .

A da pt io n o f f o rm u la and i t s i n f l u e n c e on t h e p r od u c t :

Sunscreens a r e e a s i l y i n c o rp o r a t e d t o g i v e t h i s p r od u c t an

SPF o f 6 -8 by us i ng Es ca lo l 507 (Van Dyk) a t app rox ima te l y 5%

and r e d u c i ng t h e c o n c e n t r a t i o n o f wa te r and o r o i l s .

SOURCE: Kos ter Keunen, I n c .

:

Sugges ted Formu la t i on

Mix and hea t wate r phase I com ponents t o 75C. Add a l l t h e

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 183/553

Creams

161

Multi-Purpose Cream

I n g r e d i e n t s :

A M in er a l o i l , C a rn a ti on

St ea ry l a1 coho1

B r i j 721s

B r i j

72

/ow/w

1 5 . 0 0

5 . 0 0

2 .50

2 .50

B Water , de i on i zed 74 .70

C

D o w i c i l 2 0 0 0 . 1 0

D Fragrance 0 .20

Procedure:

a g i t a t i o n . Add (C) a t 50C and m i x t h o r ou gh l y . Add

( D )

a t 35C

Add wate r t o compensate

f o r

l o s s due t o e v a p o r a t io n .

H ea t ( A ) t o 70C a nd ( B ) t o 75C w i t h g ood p r o p e l l e r

Versatile C ream

I n a r e d i e n t s :

A C e t y l a l c o h o

B r i j 721s

B Water, de io n

Carbopol 934

zed

1 0 . 0 0

4.00

85.50

0 . 1 0

C

Sod ium hydrox ide (10%

W / W

aqueous) 0 . 1 0

D D o w i c i l 2 0 0

0 . 1 0

E Fragrance 0 . 2 0

Procedure :

b l a d e t y p e a g i t a t i o n . Add ( C ) . Add

( D )

when t h e t em pera t u re

dr op s belo w 50C. Add

( E )

bel ow 40C. Add wa te r t o compensate

f o r

eva po r a t i o n . Hom ogen ize. Ad j u s t pH t o 5 .5 -6 .5 .

SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : S ug ge st ed F o r m u l a t i o n s

Heat (A ) t o 70C and

(B)

t o 75C. Add ( B ) t o (A) s l o w ly u s i ng

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 184/553

162

Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations

Night Cream (15% Aloe)

I n a r e d i e n t s :

A . Water

Methy lparaben

Promul gen-D

T r i et ha no l ami ne

B . Ceraphy l -368

Kessco-653

Emerson-1 323

L i g h t M i ne r a l O i l

G l y c e r y l m o n o s t e a r a t e

P ropy l pa raben

Vybar-5013

C . A l o e V e ra g el L i q u i d C o n c e n t r a t e 1 : 40

D . F rag rance

Aloe Bath Soap

I n n r e d i e n t s :

Sod i um Lau re t h S u l f a t e (60%)

D i sod i um Lau re th Su l fo su cc i na te

Percen t

67.625

0 . 2

2 . 0

0.75

1 0 . 0

3 .0

6 .0

6 .0

0 . 0 5

2 .0

2.0

0.375

Percen t

12 .0

7 . 0

Cocamidopropy l Be t a in e 6 .0

D i

sod i um

01

eamido MEA Sul f o s u c c i na te 6. 0

A l o e V er a ge l L i q u i d 1

:

1 5 . 0

C i t r i c A c id q . s . t o pH 6 .0

Sod i um Ch l o r i de q . s . t o 1M cps

Water , Dye, Pr e se rv at iv e , F ragrance 9.54. t o 100.0

Procedure:

Add components t o wa te r and hea t t o 40C. Ad j u s t v i s c o s i t y

w i t h s odium c h l o r i d e a nd p H w i t h c i t r i c a c i d . Add dye, p r es er v-

a t i v e and f r a g r a n c e a nd c o o l t o room t e m p e r at u r e .

SOURCE:

D r ,

Madi s L a b o r a to r i e s I n c . : Sugges ted Formu la t i ons

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 185/553

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 186/553

164

Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations

Oil/Water Moisturizing Cream

I n a r e d i e n t s :

O c t y l d i me th yl PABA

M in er a l o i l

S t e a r y l a lc o h o l

B r i j 721s

B r i j 72

D i m e th i cone

Water , de i on i zed

Carbomer 940

Sodium hy dr ox id e (10%

W /W

aqueous)

* P r e s e r v a t i v e

*Fragrance

* q . s . t he se i n g r e d i e n t s .

@yy

5.00

5 .00

0.50

2 . 0 0

2.00

0.50

84.60

0 . 2 0

0 . 2 0

Procedure:

65C and add (B) t o ( A ) w i t h p r o p e l l e r a g i t a t i o n . S lo w ly add (C)

and s t i r u n t i l u n i f o r m . C oo l t o 50C. Add ( D) a nd any w a t e r l o s t

due t o e v a p o r a t i o n .

D i spe rse Carbomer i n wa te r and hea t (B ) t o 60C. Heat (A ) t o

Oil/Water Moisturizing Cream

I n q r e d i e n t s :

O c t y l d im et hy l PABA

Benzophenone-3

M in er al o i l

S t e a r y l a lc o h o l

B r i j 721s

B r i j 72

D i methi cone

Water , de i on i zed

Carbomer

940

Sodium hy dr ox id e (10% W /W aqueous)

* P r e s e r v a t i v e

*Fragrance

* q . s . t h e se i n g r e d i e n t s .

B

7.00

3 . 0 0

5 . 0 0

0 . 50

2.00

2.00

0 .50

79.60

0

I 2 0

0.20

Procedure:

65C and add

( B )

t o

( A )

w i t h p r o p e l l e r a g i t a t i o n . S lo wl y add

( C ) and s t i r u n t i l u n i f o r m . C oo l t o 50C. Add ( D) a nd any

w a te r l o s t due t o e v a p or a t i o n.

SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : S ug ge st ed F o r m u l a t i o n s

D isp ers e Carbomer i n wate r and hea t (B ) t o 60C. Heat ( A ) t o

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 187/553

Creams

165

Oi l /Water N ig h t Cream

I n a r e d i e n t s :

A S t e a r i c a c i d , t r i p l e pressed

M in er al o i l

C e t y l a l c o h o l

Beeswax

Amerchol H-9

I s o p r o p y l 1a n ol a t e

A r l a c e l 1 6 5

B T r i et ha no l ami ne

P r o p y l ene g l y c o l

Water

C

*F ragrance

* P r e s e r v a t i v e

* q . s . t h es e i n g r e d i e n t s .

%w/w

3 . 0 0

3 . 5 0

3 . 0 0

2 . 5 0

4 .00

1 . 5 0

6 . 0 0

1 . o o

2 . 5 0

73,OO

Procedure:

m oderate bu t t ho rough a g i t a t i o n . Add f rag ra nce a t 50C and

c on t i nu e t o s t i r u n t i l room t em pe ra tu re .

Heat (A ) t o 8OC. Heat ( B ) t o 85C. Add ( B ) t o (A) s l ow l y w i t h

W/O Night Cream

I n q r e d i e n t s :

A A r l a c e l 1 6 8 9

Ar lamol HD

Arlamol M812

Ar lamol DOA

P a r a f f i n o i l

Aeros i l R972

B

G l y c e r o l

MgS04.7H20

* P r e s e r v a t i v e

Water

C Perfume Rocel ia 74475

* q . s .

t h e se i n g r e d i e n t s

3 . 5 0

6 . 0 0

2 . 0 0

2.00

8 .00

0 . 5 0

4.00

0 . 5 0

73.35

0 . 1 5

Procedure:

Hea t phase (A) (w i t ho u t Ae ro s i l R972) t o 75C. S l o w l y add

A e r o s i l R972 w h i l e s t i r r i n g . H ea t phase ( B ) t o 75C. S l o w l y a dd

p ha se (€3) t o p hase ( A) w h i l e s t i r r i n g t h o r o u g h l y . Homogenise

t h e m ix t u r e i n t e n s i v e l y . A l lo w t o co o l down w h i l e s t i r r i n g

and add phase ( C ) and a l l o w t o c oo l t o 35C w h i l e s t i r r i n g .

SOURCE: I C 1 S u r f a c t a n t s : S ug ge st ed F o r m u l a t i o n s

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 188/553

  66 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Oil/Water Pigmented Cream

I n a r e d i e n t s :

A S t e a r i c a c id , t r i p l e p ressed

I s o p r op y l m yr i s t a t e

A r l a c e l

60

Tween 60

B Sorbo

P r o p y l e n e g l y c o l

T i a n i urn d io x i de

T a l c

C

I r o n o x i de

Water

D

* P r e s e r v a t i v e

* q . s .

t h es e i n g r e d i e n t s .

%w/w

12.00

1 - 0 0

2 . 0 0

1 - 0 0

3.00

12.00

2 . 0 0

8 . 0 0

1 . o o

58.00

Procedure:

s l o w l y w i t h c o n st a nt a g i t a t i o n . Add ( D ) . Homogenize i f

necessa ry .

Heat (A ) t o 9OC and

( B )

t o 95C. Add (6) and

( C )

t o (A)

O/W All-Purpose Cream

I n a r e d i e n t s :

S t e a r i c a c i d

Lano l i n

Beeswax

M in er al o i l

Tween 85

A r l a c e l 85

Sorbo 70% s o r b i t o 1 s o l u t i o n

Water

* P r e s e r v a t i v e

*Perfume

* q . s . t h e s e g r e d i e n t s .

%w-y

1 5 . 0 0

4 . 0 0

2.00

23.00

1

. o o

1 - 0 0

12.20

41 .80

Procedure:

m oderate b u t t ho rough a g i t a t i o n . Add (C) a t 45C. S t i r u n t i l room

temperature and package.

SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : S ug ge st ed F o r m u l a t i o n s

He at ( A) t o 7 5 C . Heat (6) o 77C. Add (6) o (A ) s l ow l y w i t h

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 189/553

Creams

167

O il- in-W ater- in-O il C ream

O i

1 i -Water Phase:

O i l Phase:

C a r n a t i o n M i n e r a l O i 1

P a r a f

f

i

C e t y l a l c o h o l

P ol yo xy et hy le ne s o r b i t a n t r i s t e a r a t e

D i g l y c e r i n monool ea te

Water Phase:

B e n t o n i t e

D e x t r i n P a l m i t a t e

G1 y c e r i n

Methy lparaben

Water

Add o i l - i n - w a t e r e mu ls io n t o t h e f o l l o w i n g o i l phase:

P a r a f f i n

C e t y l A l c o h o l

Beeswax

S o r b i t a n s e s q u i o l e a t e

Sorb i t an m onos tea ra te

Bu ty l pa raben

B e n t o n i t e

D e x t r i n p a l m i t a t e

C a r n a t i o n

M i

n e r a l O i

1

15.00%

2 . 0 0

3 . 0 0

1 . o o

2.00

0 . 5 0

1 . 0 0

5.00

0 .10

29.80

5.00

3 .00

2.00

3 .00

1 . o o

0 . 1 0

0 . 5 0

1 . 0 0

25.00

Transparent Cleansing Cream

D i ( p o ly o x y e th y 1 e n e l a u r y l e t h e r ) p ho sp ha te so diu m s a l t 5 .0 0%

G l y c e r y l t r i 2 - e t hy l hexanoa te 40 .00

C a r n a t i o n M i n e r a l O i 1 20.00

G l y c e r i n 30.00

Water 5.00

SOURCE: Wi tco Co rp . : Pe t ro l eum S p e c i a l t i e s Group : Sugges ted

F o r m u l a t i o n s

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 190/553

168 Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations

O/W Protective Hand Cream

I n g r e d i e n t s :

A

A r l a c e l 1 6 5

S t e a r i c a c i d

P e t r o l a t u m

Ar lamol

HD

Ar lamol E

B

At las G-2330

* P r e s e r v a t i v e

Water

o/ w/w

6 .00

2 . 0 0

7 . 0 0

10.00

3 . 0 0

4 . 0 0

66.35

C Fomblin HC/R 1

. 5 0

D *Pe rfu me, Bouquet Eau de Mer

P C

916.315 0.15

* q . s .

t he s e i n g r e d i e n t s .

P rocedure :

Heat phases (A ) and

( 6)

se pa ra te l y t o 75C. Add phase (A )

s l o w l y o ( 6 ) w h i l e s t i r r i n g i n t e n s i v e l y . Add phase ( C) and

homogen se f o r 1 m i n u t e a t 75C. A l l o w t o c oo l w h i l e s t i r r i n g .

Homogen se ag ai n a t

40C

a f t e r t h e a d d i t i o n o f phase ( D ) . A l l o w

t o c o o l down t o 30C w h i l e s t i r r i n g a nd pa ck ag e.

Hand Cream

I n g r e d i e n t s :

A

Arlamol E

B r i j 721s

B r i j 72

S t e a r y l a l c o h o l

%w/w

8 . 0 0

2 . 4 0

2 . 6 0

4 . 0 0

B Water 82.80

C

* P r e s e r v a t i v e

D

F rag rance 0 .20

* q . s . t he se i n g r e d i e n t s .

Procedure:

b l ad e t y p e a g i t a t i o n . Add C ) . Add ( D ) when th e temper a tu re

dr op s belo w 50C. Add ( E ) below

40C .

Add water

t o

compensate

f o r e v a p o r a t i o n . H om og en ize . A d j u s t pH t o 5 . 5 - 6 . 5 .

Formula S K - 5

SOURCE:

I C 1

S u r f a c t a n t s : S ug ge ste d F o r m u l a t i o n s

Heat (A) t o 70C and ( 8 ) t o 75C. Add ( 8 ) t o ( A ) s l o w l y u s i n g

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 191/553

Creams 169

Modif ied Oil- in-Water Stearic Acid Cream

I n g r e d i e n t s :

A S t e a r i c a c id , t r i p l e p resse d

Ar lamol E

A r l a c e l

1 6 5

B S or bo , s o r b i t o l s o l u t i o n USP

Water

* P r e s e r v a t i v e

m

8 . 0 0

2 . 0 0

5 . 0 0

1 0 . 0 0

75

I O 0

*q. s . t h e s e

i

g r e d i e n t s .

Procedure:

a g i t a t i o n . Cool t o room t em pe ra tu re w i t h s t i r r i n g .

Formula

SK-2B

Heat ( A ) t o

70C.

Heat

( 6 )

t o

72C.

Add

( 6 )

t o (A) w i t h r a p i d

Skin Cream

I n q r e d i e n t s :

A A r l a c e l

1 6 5 ,

a c i d s t a b l e g .m .s .

Lanol i n

C e t y l a1 coho1

M in er al o i l

B P r o p y l e n e g l y c o l

Wa te r , de i on i zed

1 2 . 0 0

1 - 0 0

3 . 0 0

4 . 0 0

1

o o

7 9 . 0 0

Procedure:

moderate s t i r r i n g . S t i r t o 35C a nd a dd wa t e r l o s t d ue t o e vap -

o r a t i o n .

Heat (A) t o

70C.

Heat

B)

t o

72C.

Add ( 6 ) t o (A) s l o w ly w i t h

Hand Cream

I n a r e d i e n t s :

A

S t e a r i c a c id , t r i p l e p re ssed

I s o p r op y l m yr i s t a t e o r m i ne r a l o i 1

A r l a c e l

1 6 5

B Sorbo

Water , de i on i zed

* P r e s e r v a t i v e

*q .

s . t h e s e g r e d i e n t s .

y?y.y

20.00

2 . 00

5 . 0 0

2 0 . 0 0

5 3 . 0 0

Procedure:

a g i t a t i o n .

S t i r

u n t i l s e t .

SOURCE: I C 1 Su r fa c t an t s : Suggested F o rm u l a t i ons

Heat

( A )

t o

70C.

Heat ( 6 ) t o 7 2 C . Add ( 8 ) t o (A) r a p i d

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 192/553

17 Cosmetic

and

Toiletry Formulations

Mois tur i zer O/W Cream

T h i s p r o d u c t u t i l i z e s t h e m i no r c omponents o f n a t u r a l

p ro du ct s t o d e l i v e r m i l d a n t i - m i c r o b i a l a c t i v i t y , wh ich a l l ow s

t h e f o r m u la t o r t o r ed uc e t h e co n c e n t ra t i o n o f s y n t h e t i c p re s-

e r v a t i v e s . The l i g h t y e l lo w c o l o u r e d cream q u i c k l y p e n e t r a t e s

t h e s k i n , l e a v i n g a n on -g re as y f e e l and d i m in i s h e s t h e s ig n s o f

ag i ng by 1 a y i ng down a

f

1 e x i b l e b a r r i e r .

O i l Phase:

Orange Wax (K o s te r Keunen)

NF Y e l l o w Beeswax (K os te r Keunen)

I s o s t e a r i c A c i d (Un ich ema )

Almond

O i l

( A r i s t a )

M i n e r a l

O i l

(W i t co )

G l yce ro l M onos tea ra te (Henke l )

C e t y l s t e a r y l A l co h ol

( P & G )

Octy l Pa l m i t a te (Un i chem a)

Water Phase:

Water ( D i s t i 1 e d )

Propy lene Gl yc o l (Dow)

Tr ie thano lam ine (Dow)

P o l y s o r b a t e

60

( G a l l a r d & S c h l e s i n g e r )

Germaben I 1 ( S u t t o n )

4 . 5

2.5%

1

.O%

3.0%

3 . 5

6.0

6.0

2.5%

67 . 0

1 . 5 %

1 .O%

0.2%

0 . 5 %

Procedure :

o i l phase a t

75C

u nd er a g i t a t i o n . C o nt in u e m i x i n g t i l l c o o l .

A d a pt a t i o n o f f or mu la and i t s i n f l u e n c e on t h e p r o du c t :

w i th o u t a l t e r i n g t h e a e s t h e t i c s . Changing t h e ty pe s o f o i l s

sho uld o n l y a l t e r t h e v i s c o s i t y , i f m a in t a i n in g s i m i l a r

c o n c e n t r a t i o n s o f o i 1

s.

V i s c o s i t y ch ang es a r e a c h i e v e d b y

r e d uc i ng t h e c o n c en t r a t io n o f c e t y l s t e a r y l a l c o h o l and g l y c e r o l

monos teara te , by appr ox imate l y 30-40 , however t h i s may cause

s t a b i 1

i

y .

SOURCE:

Koster Keunen,

I n c . :

Suggested Formulat ions

Add a m ixed and un i f o r m water phase t o a m ixed and un i f o r m

A c t iv e s a r e e a s i l y i n c o rp o r a t e d i n t o a p r o du c t such as t h i s

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 193/553

Creams 171

M oisturizing C ream

T h i s f o r m u l a t i o n de m on st ra te s a p o l y m e r i c a p pr oa ch t o

o c c l us i v e m o i s t u r i z a t i o n e l i m i n a t i n g u n d e s i r a b le f e e l p ro p-

e r t i e s

o f

p e t r o la t u m o r o t h er t r a d i t i o n a l o c c l u s i v e i n g r e d i e n t s .

Epo lene N-34 wax i s a non -e m u l s i f i a b l e po l ye th y l e ne wh i ch

p r o v i d e s a f i l m t h a t i s r e s i s t a n t t o wa sh -o f f . I t i s i n co rp -

o ra te d i n t o t h i s emu1 s i on w i t h Eastman

AQ

55 w a te r -d i s p e rs i b l e

p o l y e st e r wh ich a l s o c o n t r i b u t e s a p r o t e c t i v e

f i l m .

The wash-

o f f r e s i s ta n ce i s due t o t h e i n a b i l i t y o f Epolene N-34 t o be

e m u l s i f i e d by soap o r s u r f a c t a n t s . The d ua l f i l m - f o r m i n g a c t i o n

o f t h i s po l ym er com b i na t i on has been shown t o reduce m o i s tu re

l os s . I n v i t r o o c c l u s i v i t y d a t a i s a v a i l a b l e .

Phase

A :

D i s t i 1 e d w a te r

P r o p y l e n e g l y c o l ,

USP

9 , s . t o 100

4.00

Phase 8 :

Polawax e m u l s i f y i n g wax, NF 3 . 0 0

A r l a c e l 165 g l y c e r y l s t e a r a t e an d PEG-100 s t e a r a t e 3 .00

Myvero l

18-06

d i s t i l l e d mo no gly ce rid e

3.00

I s o p r op y l m yr i s t a t e

5.00

Robane squalane, NF

5.00

Epolene N-34 p o ly e th y le n e wax

1 . o o

Phase

C:

D i s t i l l e d w ate r

P ropy l ene g l yc o l

Eastman AQ 555 polymer

Phase D :

Eas tman v i tam in E TPGS (20 )

Phase E :

Fragrance

P r e s e r v a t i v e

10.00

3.00

1

o o

1

. o o

q . s .

9 , s .

Procedure:

1

Prepare Phase

C

b y a d d in g p r o p y le n e g l y c o l t o w a t e r a nd h e a t-

i n g t o 95C and then adding Eastman AQ 55s w i t h m i xi n g. A l l ow

t o c o o l t o 70C.

2 . Heat Phase A w i t h m ix in g t o 95C.

3 . Heat Phase B w i t h m i x i ng t o

105-llOC.

4. Cool Phase 8 t o

95C

and add t o Phase

A w i t h

p r o p e l l e r m ix i n g .

5 . C o n ti n ue m i x i n g and c o o l t o

70C,

a v o i d i n g a i r e nt ra pm en t.

6.

A t

70C, add Phase C.

7. C o n ti n ue m i x i n g and c o o l t o 5OC; then add Phase D and Phase

E .

8 . W i t h m i x i n g , f o r c e c o o l t o room t e m p e ra t u r e . P r o du c t w i l l

t h i c ke n and f o rm a cream a t 44C.

pH: 5.5

SOURCE: Eastman Chemical C o . : F o r m u l a t i o n X20491-089

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 194/553

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 195/553

Creams

173

Night Cream, Non-Greasy

A . M i g l yo l 812

Im w i to r 900

M i g l yo l 840

Imwi to r 370

Im w i to r 375

C e t y l a l c o h o l

F l u i l a n

Emulan ODE 50

8 .

G l y c e r o l

Water

C . Perfume

P r e s e r v a t

i

e

1 8 . 0

6 .0

5 . 0

6 .0

1

. o

1 . o

1

. o

1 . 5

6 . 0

t o 1 00 .0

q s

q s

P r e p a r a t i o n

h e a te d t o t h e same t e m pe r a tu r e and e m u l s i f i e d i n A . C . i s

i n c o r p o r a t e d a t a p p r o x . 30C.

The c o n s t i t u e n t s o f A . a r e m ixed and hea ted t o 80-85C. 8 . i s

O/W Cream, with Bacteriostat

A . S o f t i s a n 601

I m w i t o r 960 f l a k e s

M i g l y o l 8 2 9

S o f t i g e n 7 0 1

Im w i to r 312

S o f t i s a n 6 4 9

S i l i c o n o i l 344 f l u i d

20 .0

8 . 0

5 . 0

5 .0

5 . 0

3 .0

1 . o

8 . Water t o

1 0 0 . 0

C .

Perfume

P r e s e r v a t i v e

P r e p a r a t i o n :

a r e h e a t e d t o t h e same t e m pe r a tu r e a nd e m u l s i f i e d i n

A .

T h i s

i s f o l l ow e d by s t i r r i n g u n t i l c o l d and i n c o r p o r a t i n g t h e per fume.

SOURCE:

H u l s A me ri ca I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n s f o r Co sm et ic s:

The c o n s t i t u e n t s o f

A .

ar e hea ted t o 75-8OC. Those o f B .

Sugges ted Formu la t i ons

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 196/553

174 Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations

Protective Face and Body Cream

I n a r e d i e n t s :

A . Cocoa bu t t e r

P e t r o l a t u m and l a n o l i n a l c o h o l (Am erch ol

CAB)

S t e a r i c a c i d XXX

G l yc o l s t e a r a t e

E t h y l d i h y d ro x y p r o p y l

PABA

(Amerscreen P)

M e thy l g l uce th -20 ses qu i s tea ra te (Gl ucam ate SS 2 0 )

Propy l paraben

Water

Methy l g luce th -1 0 (G lucose E-10)

Quatern ium-6 (Merquat 100)

T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e

D i a z o l i d i n y l u r a ( Ge rm al l

1 1 )

Fragrance

C o l o r ( O p t i o n a l )

B .

A l o e V er ag el ( Ve ra g el L i q u i d 1 : l )

C . Methy l paraben

Percen t

5.00

3 .00

5 .00

8 .50

5 .00

2.00

0.10

50 .00

17.50

1 .oo

1 .50

1

. o o

0 . 1 0

0.30

q . s .

q . s .

P ro d uc t C h a r a c te r i a t i c s :

p r o t e c t i on.

Procedure :

m i x i n g . Le t coo l t o app rox i m a te l y 45-5OC. Add p re se rv a t i v e sys tem

and f r ag ra nc e. SPF

i

ap pr ox i mate1 y 8-1 0 .

N o n- ta ck y crea m w i t h good r u b - i n q u a l i t y a nd n i c e sun

Heat phase (A) and

( B )

se pa ra te l y t o 75C. Add

( B )

t o (A) w i t h

Eye Cream

I n a r e d i e n t s :

A . Water

Ca rrag ee na n Gum

Pro pyl ene G1 y co l

S o r b i c A c i d

Glycamate SSE-20

Gl yce ry l M ono-S tea ra te

Soybean O i l

Stea re th -20

C e t y l A l c o h o l

S tea ra te -2

Glucate-SS

B .

P e t r o l a t u m

C . A l o e V er ag el L i q u i d 1 : l

Percen t

q . s .

0.1

5 . 0

0 .05

1 . 5

1 5 . 5

4 . 0

2 . 0

0 . 5

0 . 5

0.2

2.0

5 .0

Procedure:

Heat Phases t o 8OC. Add Phase B t o A a t BOC. L et mix u n t i l

b a t c h i s a t 55C. Add a l o e g e l

t o

b a t c h s l o w l y . . M ix and c o o l t o

below 40C.

SOURCE: D r . M ad is Lab o ra to r i es I n c . : Suggested F o rm u l a t i ons

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 197/553

Creams 175

Protective Face and Body Cream

I n a r e d i e n t s :

A . O i l phase

M in er a l o i l

Sweet Almond o i l

W h i t e P e t r o l a t u m

G l y c e ry l s t e a r a t e

White beeswax

T ocophe ro l (V i t am i n

E )

6 . A l oe v e r a g e l ( Ve ra g el L i q u i d )

Magnesi urn a lu mi num s i 1i a t e (Veegum F)

De ion i zed water

O c t y l d i m e t h y l PABA (Esca l o l 507 )

D i a z o l i d i n y l u r ea ( Ge rm al l

1 1 )

Methyl Paraben

F ra g ra n ce , c o l o r a nd p r e s e r v a t i v e

Percen t

13 .50

3 .00

13.50

5.50

3 .50

3 .50

2.00

45.00

0.10

10.00

3.00

0 .35

0 .15

9 . s .

P ro du ct C h a r a c t e r i s t i c s :

a l l o w i n g t a n n in g

w i t h

s o m e p r o t e c t i o n .

Procedure:

Decrease 0 . 1 (%w/w) Veegum i n 10 (%w/w) wa t e r a t b o i l i n g

t em pe r at ur e w i t h m i x i n g , t h e n l e t c o o l t o a p p r o x im a t e l y 70C. and

add r e s t o f B ( e xc e p t f o r f r a g r a n c e ) a nd m a i n t a i n t e m p e ra t ur e .

Heat ( A ) t o 70-75C. , t he n add

(E)

t o

( A )

w i t h m ix i ng . L e t co o l

t o 45C. Then add f r a g r a n c e , l e t c o o l f u r t h e r a nd p ac ka ge .

T h i s i s a good r ub - i n c ream w i t h a SPF 6 ( a p p r o x i m a t e l y ) ,

Moistu r izing Cream

I n a r e d i e n t s :

A . M i n e r al o i l a nd l a n o l i n o i l (Amerchol L-101)

Lane t h-5

I s o p r op y l l a n o l a t e

S t e a r i c a c i d X X X

G l y c e r y l m o n o s t e a r a t e

M in er a l o i l

6 . A lo e v e r a g e l ( Ve ra ge l L i q u i d 1 : l )

P r o p y l e n e g l y c o l

T r i et ha no l ami ne

P ro py le ne g l y c o l (a nd) d i a z o l i d i n y l u r e a ( an d)

methy l parabe n (and) pr op y l paraben (Germaben

11)

Procedure:

Hea t (A ) and (6 ) se pa ra te l y t o 75 deg rees C . M i x

( A )

u n i f o rm . Add ( A) t o ( 6 ) w i t h c o n st a nt s t i r r i n g and c o o l

room

t em pera tu re .

SOURCE:

D r .

M e d i s L a b o r a t o r i e s

Inc . :

Suggested Formulat

Pe rcen t

1

. o o

1

.oo

1 - 0 0

3.00

2 - 0 0

8.00

78.00

4.50

0.50

1.00

u n t i 1

t o

ons

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 198/553

176 Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations

Rejuvenating Cream

I n q r e d i e n t s :

A )

Cremophor A-6

Cremophor A-25

C u t i n a

GMS

Lane t t e -0

S t e a r i c A c i d

P a r a f f i n o i l

C e t i o l

SN

Vase1

i

e w h i t e

Abi 1-350

B) Wate r dem i ne ra l i zed

I m i dazo l

i

i n y l u r e a

Phenoni p

G l yce r

G l y c o l i c a c i d

M a l i c a c i d

Pen tav i

t i

n

Immucel l

C) Fragrance/Chiara 0/238927

% w / w

2,50

2,50

4,00

3,00

1 , o o

10,00

5,00

3,00

0,40

55 60

0,20

0,50

3,00

2,00

1

, o o

3,00

3,00

0,30

Procedure :

Heat t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f f a t t y p hase A ) t o 70C.

I n c o r p or a t e i t e m ' s 11-15 i n w at er ( l o ) , a d j u s t t h e pH t o 4 . 5 .

Heat phase

B)

t o 7 5 C .

Under s t i r r i n g a dd phase B ) t o phase A), co o l t o 50C, homogen-

Then add phase C ) and s t i r c o l d .

T hen i nco rpo ra te i t em s 16 + 17.

i z e a nd c o o l t o 30C.

A p p l i c a t i o n

No. A

032.0/11.94

W/O Night Repair Cream

  cold procedure

I n a r e d i e n t s :

1 A) P i o n i e r KWH-soft

2 B ) Wate r dem i ne ra l i zed

3

G1 y c e r

4 Magnes iumsul fa t -7H20

5 Revi t a l

6 Hyasol

7 Phenoni p

9

C )

Fragr ance: 0 /232511 B l ac k Dragon I 1

8

Euxy l

K- 200

% w / w

30,00

53,70

5100

0,50

5,00

5,00

0,30

0,20

0,30

Procedure:

D i s s o l v e i t e m s 3-8 i n wa te r ( 2 ) .

Under v e r y go od s t i r r i n g a dd p ha se B ) s l o w l y t o phase

A )

F i na l 1 y

i

co rpo ra te phase C ) .

A p p l i c a t i o n

No. B

006.0 /04 .93

SOURCE: Pentapharm L t d . : Suggested A p p l i c a t i o n s

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 199/553

Creams

177

1 . M i n e r a l

O i 1

2. Coco B u t te r

3 . C e t e a r v l A l c o h o l & Ceteareth 20

4 .

Em ul s i fy in g wax N.F.

5 . S t e a r i c A ci d

6. G l y c e r y l M o n o s t e a r a t e

7 . G l y c e r i n

E . Propy l ene G l yco l

9 .

Acetamide

MEA

100%

10 .T r i e thano l am i ne

11 .Mackpro NSP ( O l e y l / P a l m i t y

Silk Protein Skin Cream

Wei a h t ,%

1 0 . 0

4 . 0

6 . 0

1 . o

2 .8

2.0

2 .0

0 . 5

0 .2

2 . 0

d o p r o p y l / S i l k h y d r o x y -Palmi to le am

pr op y l Dimonium Ch lo r i de )

12 ,Macks ta t

DM

(DMDM Hydantoin)

13 .F ragrance

14.Deion ized Water

q s

qs

qs

Procedure:

1 . M e l t 1 ,2 ,3 ,4 ,5 ,6 ,7 ,8 ,9 , i n a s e p a r a te c o n t a i n e r t o 75

degrees

C .

2 . I n t h e m i x in g t a nk h e at t h e w at er t o 78 d eg re es C . add 10,ll.

3 . S t a r t m i x i n g and add h o t m i x t u r e o f 1 t h r u 9 s lo w l y w i t h

good a g i t a t i o n , m ix f o r 20 m in ute s th e n s t a r t c o o l i n g .

4 . W h i l e m i x i n g ad d a t

50

degrees C . i t e m s 12 then 13 and

m ix u n t i l e v e r y t h i n g i s homogeneous.

5. Check pH and adjust

i f

needed w i t h t r i e t h a n o l a m i n e or a c i d

s o l u t i o n t o 5 .4 -6 .5 .

SOURCE :

M c I n t y r e Group L t d . : P e r s o n a l Care

Formulary

Moistur iz ing Cream w/Tr i toso l

A b l e n d

o f

Polawax and In c ro qu at Behenyl TMS pr ov id e t h i s

cream w i t h e x c e l l e n t s t a b i l i t y and m i l dn e ss . The i n c o r p o r a t i o n

o f T r i t i s o l a l l ow s t h e s k i n t o r e t a i n mo is tu re , and a c t s t o

c o n d i t i o n t h e s k i n .

I n g r e d i e n t s :

P a r t

A :

Polawax ( E m u l s i f y i n g Wax NF)

In cr oq ua t Beheny l TMS (Behent r imonium Me th os ul fa te

M i n e r a l O i l (7Ossu)

P a r t

8 :

Deion ized Water

P a r t C :

T r i t i s o l ( S o l u b l e Wheat P r o t e i n )

P r op y le n e Q l y c o l ( a n d) D i a z o l i d i n y l U re a ( an d) M e t h y l

Paraben (and) Propyl Paraben*

( an d) C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l )

-

0.00

3.00

5.00

0.00

1

. o o

1 . o o

Procedure :

Com b i ne i ng red i en t s o f P a r t

A

w i t h m i x i n g a nd h e a t t o 70C.

Hea t Pa r t 0 t o 70C. Add Pa r t

0

t o P a r t A w i t h g ood m i x i n g a nd

co o l t o 45C. Add Pa r t C w i t h m i x i n g and c oo l t o d e s i r ed fill

t em pera tu re .

pH:

5 . 0 + - 0 . 5

V i s c o s i t y : 11

O O O + - 1 0 %

*Germaben I 1

N . A . T . C .

Approved

SOURCE:

Croda, I n c . : Formula SC-229

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 200/553

178 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Silky-Smooth Lotion/Cream-A

M a t e r i a l s :

P a r t A :

Dei oni zed Water

Rheol a t e 5000

Pr op yle ne G1 yc o l

P a r t B :

Pana l ene

S i l i c o n e

7207

Promulgen D

Ceraphy l

494

P a r t C :

AMP

P a r t 0 :

Euxyl K-400

F in s o lv TN

Esca l o l 507

Approx im a te V i sc os i t y , cps : 15 ,000

Silky-Smooth Lotion/Cream-B

M a t e r i a l s :

P a r t

A :

Dei on i zed Water

Rheol a t e 5000

P r o p y le n e G l y c o l

P a r t

B:

S i

1

i

one 7207

Ceraphy l

494

S t e a r i c A c i d

C e t y l A l c o h o l

Dow

200

F l u i d

P a r t

C :

T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e

P a r t D :

F i n s o l v TN

Euxyl K-400

Approx imate , V iscos i t y , cps : 45 ,000

%&y

79.66

0 . 3

0 . 5

8 . 0

1 . o

1 . o

2 .0

0 .24

0 . 3

2 . 0

5 .0

% Y J

83.55

0 . 3

2 . 5

2 . 0

1

. o

1 .75

1 .o

5 . 0

0 . 6

0 .3

2.0

M a n uf a ct u r i n g D i r e c t i o n s :

1 . C ombine t h e i n g r e d i e n t s i n P a r t A by s lo w l y s i f t i n g i n t h e

2 .

Combine a l l i n g r e d i e n t s i n P a r t B, t he n he at t o 78C.

3 . Add Par t 6 t o P ar t A w h i l e s t i r r i n g . M ix f o r 10 m in ut es ,

4.

Cool t o

40C

b e f o r e a d d in g P a r t D . Package a t Room Tem per atu re.

SOURCE: Rheox, I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n s TS-312

p ol ym er t o t h e wa te r, m i x i n g f o r 20 m i n u t es , t h e n ad d i n g t h e

p r o p y l e n e g l y c o l . He at t o 80C.

then add Pa r t C .

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 201/553

Creams 179

Silky-Smoo th Lotion/Cream-C

M a t e r i a l s : Jy&

P a r t A :

Dei oni zed Water 78.16

Rheol a t e 5000 0 . 3

Propy lene G1 yc o l 2 . 5

P a r t B :

Panal ene

8 . 0

S i

1

i one 7207 1 . o

Promulgen D 0 . 5

Ceraphyl 494 2 . 0

P a r t C :

AMP 0.24

P a r t D :

Eux yl K-400 0 .3

F i n s o l v

TN

2 . 0

Esc a l o l 507 5 .0

M a n u f a c t u r i n g D i r e c t i o n s :

1 . Combine t h e i n g r e d i e n t s i n P a r t A by s lo w l y s i f t i n g i n t h e

Approx im a te V i sc os i t y , cps : 24,500

p ol ym er t o t h e w at e r, m i x i n g f o r 20 m in u te s , t h e n a dd in g t h e

p r o py l en e g l y c o l . He at t o 80C.

t h e n a dd P a r t C .

2 .

Combine a l l i n g r e d i e n t s i n P a r t

B,

t h e n h e a t t o 78C.

3. Add Par t 6 t o P ar t A w h i l e s t i r r i n g . M ix f o r 10 m in ut es ,

4. Coo l t o 40C be fo re add ing Pa r t

D .

Package A t Room Temperature.

Formula TS-312

Silky Smooth Cream Base

I n a r e d i e n t :

%w/w

P a r t

A :

Deion ized Water 83 .55

Rheo la te 5000 0 . 3

Propy lene G1 yc o l 2 .5

P a r t

B:

S i 1 co ne 7207 2.0

Cer aph yl 494 1 . o

S t e a r i c A c i d 1 .7 5

C e t y l A 1 coho1 1

. o

Dow 200 F l u i d

5 . 0

P a r t C:

T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e 0 . 6

P a r t D :

Euxyl K-400

0 .3

Fi ns o l v TN 2 . 0

M a n u f a c t u r i n g D i r e c t i o n s :

1 . Combine t h e i n g r e d i e n t s i n P a r t A by s l o w ly s i f t i n g i n t h e

p olym er t o t h e w at er , m i x in g f o r

20

m i nu t es , t h e n a dd i ng t h e

p r op y le n e g l y c o l . Heat t o

80C.

2 .

Combine a l l i n g r e d i e n t s i n P a r t

8 ,

t h e n h e a t t o 78C.

3 .

Add Par t B t o P ar t

A

w h i l e s t i r r i n g . M ix f o r 10 m in ute s,

t h e n a dd P a r t

C .

4 .

Coo l t o 40C be fo re add i ng Pa r t

D .

Package a t Room Temp-

e r a t u r e .

Formula TS-331

SOURCE: Rheox ,

I n c . : S ug ge ste d F o r m u l a t i o n s

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 202/553

18 Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations

Skin Cream

A . Squalane

Beeswax

Amiter LG-OD

Cetyl Octanoate (Emalex CC-168)*

Hydrogenated O i 1 (Emal ex S . T . G - R ) *

Beheny l A lcoho l

P ropy l eneg l yco l M onos tea ra te

G l y c e r y l M on os te ar at e, S e l f E m u l s i f y i n g

D i m e t h y l p o l y s i l o x a n e ( 3 0 0 c . s . )

B u t y l paraben

Amihope

L L

G1 y c e r i

n

H y d r o x y e t h y l c e l l u l o s e ( 1 % a q. s o l n . )

Methy lparaben

Water

*Nihon Emuls ion

C o .

(Emalex GMS-7CAE)*

B . CAE

Procedure:

1 . M i x ( A ) a t

2 . M i x (B ) a t

3. Add ( A ) t o

4 . M ix them w

N o t e : T h i s

sk

8 0 C .

8 0 C .

( 6 ) .

t h a homomixe r, and t he n co o l s l o w l y t o 30C

n

c ream sp reads we l l .

Wt%

4 . 0

1

. o

2 . 0

3 . 0

4 . 0

1 . 5

1

. o

5 . 0

0 . 4

0 . 1

1

. o

0 . 5

5 . 0

1 0 . 0

0 . 2

58 .3

Skin Cream

A . L i q u i d P e tr o la t um

Cetano l

Pro py l ene G1 yc o l Monostearate

G l y c e r y l M o n o st ea ra te , S e l f Ernulsi f y i ng (HLB

5 )

POE

(10) Monos teara te

POE

( 3 0 )

Monostearate

Buty l Paraben

Amihope LL

B . 1 , 3 - B u t y l e n e G l y c o l

Acy lg lu tamate HS-11

Methy lparaben

Water

(Em alex GMS-45RT; Ni ho n Emu ls io n Co. )

Wt%

1 7 . 0

3 . 0

1 . o

3 . 0

2 . 0

1

. o

0 . 1

5 . 0

5 . 0

0 . 3

0 . 2

6 2 . 4

Procedure:

1 . M i x (A) a t 80C. 2 . M i x ( € 3 ) a t

8 0 C .

3 . Add ( B) t o (A) 4. Mi x them w i t h a homomixer.

5 . Coo l t hem s l ow l y t o 30C.

N ot e: T h i s s k i n cream has l o w f r i c t i o n t o u ch a f t e r u se .

SOURCE:

A j i nom o to

U S A ,

I n c . : S ug ge st ed F o r m u l a t i o n s

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 203/553

Creams 181

Skin Cream with CAE and Amihope

In q r e d i e n t s

: W B

Phase A :

Squa l ane 4 . 0

Beeswax 1 . o

Amiter LG-OD 2 . 0

C e ty l Octan oate* (Emalex CC-168) 3. 0

Hydrogenated O i l * (Emalex S.T.G.-R) 4 . 0

Behenyl A l coho l 1 . 5

S t e a r i c A c id 3 . 0

Propy l ene G l yc o l M onos tea ra te

1 . o

Gl yc er y l Monos teara te S e l f Em u ls i f y i ng (Emalex GMS-7

C A E ) *

5 .0

M e t h y l p o l y s i l o x a n e (300 c . s . ) 0 . 4

B u t y l paraben 0.1

Amihope LL 1 . o

Phase 8:

CAE

0 . 5

G1 y c e r i n 5 . 0

H y d r o x y e t h y l c e l l u l o s e (1% Aq. So ln . ) 10 .0

Methy lparaben 0 .2

Water 58.3

M anu fac tu r i ng P rocedu re :

Mix Phase A and he at t o 80C. Mix Phase

B

and h e a t t o 8OC.

Add Phase A t o Phase B and homogenize . Coo l s l o w l y t o 3 0 C .

* N i hon Emu1 s i on Co.

,

L t d . , Japan

Form ul a No. LC-7

Cleansing Cream

( 0 ) L i q u i d P a r a f f i n ( 70)

P e t r o l a t u m

Beeswax

Lanol

i

A1 coho1

P o l y o x y e t h y l e n e ( 5 ) G l y c er y l I s o s t e a r a t e

P o l y o xy e t h y le n e ( 5 ) S t e a r y l E t h e r

P o l y e t h y l e n e G l y c o l

( 5 0 0 )

D i s t e a r a t e

So rb i t an Mono1 au ra te

S o r b i t a n Monool e a t e

A1 umi num Mo no st ear a te

Pr op yl ene G1 y c o l

Water

P r e s e r v a t i v e

(W) Aj idew

N - 5 0

Procedure:

1 . Suspend a1 umi num mon ost ear ate t o 1 u i d p a r a f f i n

2 . Add other

(0 )

i n g r e d i e n t s t o t h e s us pe ns io n.

3 .

Heat

(0 )

t o 95C t o d i s s o l v e .

4 .

Heat

( W )

t o 85C.

5. Add (W) t o

(0 )

s lo w l y w i t h s t i r r i n g .

6 . Coo l t o 40C w i t h s t i r r i n g .

SOURCE:

Aj inornoto USA, I n c . : S ug ge st ed F o r m u l a t i o n s

pH: 5.1

t %

21 . o

5 . 0

10 .0

1 . 7

4 . 0

2 . 5

1 . 6

0 . 2

0 . 4

2 . 0

3 . 0

3 .0

4 5 . 6

q . s .

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 204/553

182 Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations

Skin Care Cream

T h i s p r o d u c t i m p a r t s good s k i n f e e l and has a h i g h q u a l i t y

appearance, t ho ug h t h e p r o d u c t i o n i s c o s t e f f e c t i v e . There a r e

a l s o b a r r i e r and m o i s t u r i z i n g p r o p e r t i e s wh ich a r e h i g h l y

e f f e c t i v e h y d r a t i o n system f o r a l l s k i n t yp e s . The f o r m u la

a l s o w i l l h e l p re d uc e t r a n s e pi d e r m a l w a t e r l o s s .

O i l Phase:

Ce ty l s t e a r y l A1 coho1 1618 (P&G)

N F Wh ite Beeswax (K o s te r Keunen)

I so p r op y l Pa l m i t a te (Un ichema)

L i g h t M i ne r a l O i l (W i t co )

P ro p yl en e G l y c o l D i o c t a n a t e ( I n o l e x )

S t ea r i c Ac i d (Un ichema)

Coconut O i l (CocoChem)

Propy l Paraben (Su t ton)

Water Phase:

Water ( D i s t i l l e d )

Glycer ine (UniChema)

Carboxymethy l C e l l u l o s e (CMC, Her cu l es)

Carbopol 940 (BF Goodr ich)

Sodi um B or at e (Bo rax )

T r ie thano lam ine (Dow)

Methy l Paraben (Su t ton)

4.50%

2.50%

3 . 0 0 %

5.00%

1.50%

0.50%

1.25%

0.20%

74.25%

5.50%

0 30%

0 . 6 0 %

0.40%

0

30%

0.20%

Procedure :

Add t o t h e w at er phase u nd er a g i t a t i o n , i n or d e r ;

CMC

u n t i l

e v e r y t h i n g i s d i s s o l v e d t h e n m e th y l p a ra be n w h i l e m i x i n g . Then

add carbo po l , m ix t i l l homogeneous making su re t h e r e a r e no

agg lo mera t io ns . Add th e remainder o f t h e wate r phase components,

m i x and hea t t o 75C. Add a l l t h e o i l phase com ponents, hea t t i l l

75C and m ix . Add s l o w l y t h e o i l p ha se t o t h e w a te r p ha se u n de r

a g i t a t i o n m a i n t a i n i n g a t e mp e ra tu re o f 75C. When t h e o i l phase

i s added, c o o l and p o ur i n t o c o n t a i n e r .

A da p ti on o f f o r m u l a and i t s i n f l u e n c e on t h e p r o d u ct :

ene g l y c o l d i o c t a n a t e by 0.5% and t h e a d d i t i o n

o f

2 .5% Esca l o l

507 (Van Dyk) t h e cream w i l l t a k e on an SPF o f

6-8.

The produc t

h as t h e same a pp ea ra nc e, s k i n f e e l a nd s t a b i l i t y . F r ag r a nc e s c an

a l s o be added w i t ho u t a f f e c t i n g i t s t e x t u r e .

SOURCE:

Kos te r Keunen, I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n

By r e d u c in g t h e c o n c e n t r a t i o n s o f m i n e r a l o i l b y 2.0%, p r o p y l -

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 205/553

Creams 183

Soft

Cream

I n g r e d i e n t s :

A

Ar lamol

I S M L

S t e a r y l a l c o h o l

S i l i c o n e o i l (350 c s )

Ar lamol E

B r i j 700

B r i j

72

B Wate r , de i on i zed

Carbopol 934

C Sodium hydrox ide (10 aqueous)

D P r e s e r v a t i v e

E *Perfume

* q .s . t he se i n g r e d i e n t s .

%w/w

4 .00

1

. o o

0 .50

1 . o o

2.25

2 . 2 5

8 8 . 1 0

0 . 4 0

0 . 4 0

0.10

Procedure:

a g i t a t i o n . Add

( C ) .

Add ( D ) be lo w 50C. Add

( E )

a t 35C and add

w a t e r t o c ompensate f o r l o s s due t o e v a p o r a t i o n .

Heat (A ) t o 70C and (B ) t o 72C. Add (B ) t o (A ) w i t h modera te

I n g r e d i e n t s :

A Jo j oba O i l

B r i j

72

B r i j

7 0 0

S t e a r y l a1 coho1

B Water , de i on i zed

C

D o w i c i l 200

Jojoba

Oil

Cream

1 0 .0 0

2 .70

1 . 3 0

4 .00

81 - 9 0

0 . 1 0

D

*Perfume

* q . s . t h es e i n g r e d i e n t s .

Procedure:

e l l e r t y p e a g i t a t i o n . Add C ) a t a bou t 50C and ( D ) a t a b o u t

45C. Add wate r a t 35C t o compensate f o r loss due t o evapora-

t i on . Package .

Formula PC-7158

SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : S ug ge st ed F o r m u l a t i o n s

Heat (A ) t o 60C and (B ) t o 65C. Add (B ) t o ( A ) u s i n g p r o p-

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 206/553

184 Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations

Vanishing Cream

I n g r e d i e n t s :

A r lamo l

I S M L

S t e a r y l a l c o h o l

S i l i c o n e o i l (350 c s)

Ar lamo l E

B r i j 700

B r i j 72

Water , de i on i zed

Sorbo

Carbopol 934

Sod ium hydrox ide (10 aqueous)

Germal l

I 1

Herba l F ragrance

SL

79-1224, PFW

%w/w

10.00

4 . 0 0

0 . 5 0

3 . 0 0

2 .00

3 . 0 0

72.90

4 . 0 0

0 . 2 0

0 . 2 0

0 . 1 0

0 . 1 0

Procedure :

a g i t a t i o n . Add (C ) . Add (D) be low 50C. Add ( E ) a t 35C and add

w a te r t o c ompensate f o r l o s s due t o e v a p o r a t i o n .

Heat (A) t o 70C and ( B ) t o 72C. Add ( 8 ) t o ( A) w i t h m od e ra te

Vanishing Cream

I n g r e d i e n t s :

A Ar lamol

I S M L

S t e a r y l a l c o h ol

S i l i c o n e o i l , 350 c s .

Ar lamo l E

B r i j 721

B r i j

72

B Water

S or bo , 70% S o r b i t o 1 s o l u t i on

Carbopol 934

C NaOH

(10

aqueous)

D D o w i c i l 200 p r e s e r v a t i v e

*Perfume

* q. s . t h es e i n g r e d i e n t s .

nw w

1 0 . 0 0

4.00

0.50

3 . 0 0

2.65

2 . 3 5

73.00

4 .00

0 . 2 0

0 . 2 0

0 . 1 0

Procedure:

72C and add ( B) t o ( A) w i t h p r o p e l l e r a g i t a t i o n . S l o w ly add C )

and i nc rea se speed o f t h e a g i t a t i o n as needed . Add (D) and

r e p l a c e w a te r l o s t b y e v a p or a t i o n.

SOURCE:

I C 1

S u r f a c t a n t s : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n s

D i s p e r s e Carbomer i n w a t e r a nd h e a t ( B) t o 70C. H eat ( A) t o

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 207/553

Creams

185

Vanishing Cream

Phase 1:

Rosswax 63-041 2

Rosswax 573

Amerlate P

Emerest 2314

Emerest 2316

G l yce ry l M onos tea ra te S E

Phase 2 :

Water

Emery 916 Pure G ly c e r in e

T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e

Fragrance

P r e s e r v a t i e

Pa r t s bv We igh t

8 . 0

12.0

1

. o

1

. o

1

. o

0 . 5

99.0

8 . 0

1 . 2

q . s .

q . s .

Procedure:

t o te m pe r at ur e o f 170F w i t h a g i t a t i o n . When t h e t em p er a tu r e i s

reached add phase 1 t o 2 w i t h c on t i nu ed a g i t a t i o n c o o l i n g t o

120F t o package. F ragra nce may be added t o t h e p rod uc t as

i t

i s c o o l i n g .

I n s e p a r a t e ste am j a c k e t e d k e t t l e s h e a t b o t h ph as e 1 and 2

Ross Cold Cream Formulation with Jojoba Oil

P a r t

A :

Ross Beeswax S u b s t i t u t e 628/5

Ross F u l l y Ref ine d P a r a f f i n Wax 150 /160

M i n e r a l O i l 80/90

Gl yce ro l M onos tea ra te S . E .

Ross Jojoba O i l

P a r t B:

Borax

Water

Fragrance

P r e s e r v a t i v e

%

11

o

2 .0

45 .5

0 . 3

2 . 0

0 . 8

38 .4

q . s .

9 , s .

Procedure:

Hea t Pa r t A t o 170F and a g i t a t e . H ea t P a r t B t o 170F and

a g i t a t e . Co ol t o 160F and add P a r t A t o P a rt 0 a t 160F w i t h

good a g i t a t i o n . Cool s l o w l y w i t h a g i t a t i o n and p ou r a t 11OF.

SOURCE: Frank 8 . Ross Co., I n c . : Sugges ted For mu la t i on s

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 208/553

  86 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

W/O

Cream with Eldew

I n g r ed i en t s /T r ad e Name: % b v w e i g h t

P a r t A :

D i - ( C h o l e s t e r y l , b e he n yl , o c t y l d o d e c y l )

N -Lau roy l -L -g l u tam i c a c i d es te r /E l dew CL-301 2 . 0

C e t e a r y l O c ta n oa te 8 . 0

C12-15 A1 k y l Benzoate 5 . 0

Phenoxyethanol 0 .60

T ocophe ry l Ace ta t e 0 .05

P a r t 8 :

P o l y g l y c e r y l - 4 I s o s t e a r a t e ( an d ) C e t y l D im e th i cone

Ce ty l D i me th icone 2 .00

P a r t C :

De io n iz ed Water 68.55

Sodium Ch l o r i de 0 .80

G l y c e r i n ( 99 . 5% ) 5 . 0 0

P a r t i a l l y Deac e ty l a te d C h i t i n (1 .O% ) /M ari ne Dew PC-100

2 .00

P a r t D :

B u t y l e n e G l y c o l 0 . 80

Procedure:

A .

P re -m e lt p a r t

D

b y h e a t i n g t o 50 d e gr ee s C . Add t o p a r t

C .

S l o w l y add p a r t

C

and

D

m i x t u r e t o p a r t s A and

B

w i t h h i g h s he ar

m i x i ng .

Copo lyo l (and) Hexy l Lau ra te 5 .00

Methy lparaben 0 . 2 0

P re -m e lt p a r t A a t 50 deg rees Cen t i g rade . Add p a r t B t o p a r t

Appearance: Whi te, smooth, shiny l o t i o n pH: 6 . 0- 6 .5

V i scos i t y : 20 ,000 -20 ,000 ( R V T #6 lOrpm

25 degrees

C )

Cleansing Cream

L i q u i d P a r a f f i n

( 70)

P a r a f f i n Wax (mp 42-44C)

Squa l ane

I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e

C e t y l A l c o h o l

N i k k o l WCB

S o r b i t a n M o no st ea r at e

P o l y o x y e t h y l e n e ( 1 5 ) C e t y l E t h e r

A j idew T-50

Water

P r e s e r v a t i v e

Procedure:

1 . Heat 0) nd W ) t o 80C.

2. Add (W) t o ( 0 ) s lo w l y w i t h s t i r r i n g .

3 . C ool t o 40C w i t h s t i r r i n g .

SOURCE: Ajinomoto

USA,

I n c . : S ug ge st ed F o r m u l a t i o n s

pH: 5 .7

t %

35.0

10.0

2 . 0

3 . 0

1

. o10 .0

2 . 4

2 . 6

3 . 0

31 . O

0 . s .

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 209/553

Creams

187

90%

Water Cream

Water

Carbomer 934

Protox T-25

Rosswax 63-041 2

Rosswax 1824

GMS SE

Coconut O i l #76

Jo j oba O i l

T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e

Germaben

I I E

Fragrance GK-21

Pa r t s by Wei ah t

450. 0Gr

.

2.OGr.

1

. Q G r .

4.OGr.

16.OGr.

4.OGr.

16.OGr.

4.OGr.

4.OGr.

6.OGr.

q.s.

Procedure:

D i s p e r se t h e Carbomer 9 34 i n t h e w a t e r , on a s t a i n l e s s s t e e l

v e s s e l . I n a se p a ra t e v e ss el m e l t t h e O i l Phase. When t h e O i l

Phase i s m e l t ed add i t t o t h e Water Phase w i t h a g i t a t i o n . N ex t

add t h e f ra g r an c e , t h e p r e s e r v a t i v e and l a s t add t h e T r i e t h a n o l -

amine w i t h i n cr e a se d a g i t a t i o n .

Soft & Si lky Vanishing Cream

P a r t ( A ) :

Rosswax 63-0412

Rosswax 573

Ross Lo t i on

O i l

2745

GMS-SE

P a r t ( B ) :

Water

Pro py le ne G1 yc o l

T r i et ha no l ami ne

Germaben

I 1

P a r t

C ) :

F rag rance

Par t s bv We i gh t

8 . 0

10.0

8.0

0 . 5

97.0

8 . 0

2 . 0

1 . 2

q . s .

Procedure:

k e t t l e s un de r a g i t a t i o n . When f u l l y h e at ed add P a r t ( A ) t o P a r t

( B )

unde r ag i t a t i o n . Coo l t o 130F, F rag rance and package .

SOURCE: Frank

8 .

R o s s C o . , I n c . : S ug ge st ed F o r m u l a t i o n s

H e a t P a r t

( A )

and Par t

( B )

t o 170F i n s e p a r a t e steam j a c k e t e d

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 210/553

Sect ion

VI

Hair Care Products

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 211/553

Hair Care Products 189

A r c t i c M i s t S p r a y G e l

T h i s wa te r wh i t e , c l e a r , sp ra ya b le g e l u ses D ia fo rm e r 2-301

t o p r o v i d e e x c e l l e n t h o ld , c l e a r f i l m s , and

no

f l a k i n g . I t

e x h i b i t s good v i s c o s i t y c h a r a c t e r i s t i c s . S an do xy la te SX-424 i s

used a s a f r a g r a n c e s o l u b i l i z e r .

I n g e di n t

s ~ :

W

De ion ize d Water 91 .80

Carbopol 980 0. 30

NaOH 10% 0 . 4 0

D i afo rm er 2-301 6.95

G l y c e r i n 0 . 1 0

D i sod i urn EDTA 0 . 0 5

Sand oxyl ate SX-424 0. 25

Frag rance

0 . 0 5

P r e s e r v a t i v e

0 . 1 0

Procedure :

homogeneous. Add NaOH 10% t o n e u t r a l i z e t h e C arbopol 980. Mix

we l l . Ad d D ia fo rm e r

2-301

and G l y c e r i n one a t a t i m e w i t h

m i x i ng. Add D i s od i um EDTA. P r es o l u b i 1 i e f r a g r a n c e i Sandoxy-

l a t e SX-424 and add t o ba t ch . M ix we l l . Ad ju s t pH as needed

w i t h NaOH 10%.

P r o p e r t i e s :

pH: 6 .5

V is c o s i t y : 12 ,000 -14,000 cps .

App ea ra nce: Water wh i t e , c l e a r g e l

Add C ar bo po l 980 t o w at er w i t h r a p i d a g i t a t i o n and m ix u n t i l

F ormu l a t i n CHF-20

Super Hard Hold Hair Spray

D i a ho l d A-503 i s used t o c r e a t e t h i s s uper h a r d h o l d h a i r

sp ra y t h a t m ee ts t h e 80% VOC r e q u i re m e n ts . I t s a b i l i t y t o f o r m

ha rd , c r y s t a l c l e a r f i l m s r e s u l t i n a h a i r s pr ay t h a t has good

g l o s s and e x c e l l e n t h o l d on t h e h a i r . D i a h ol d A-503 i s a l s o

e a s i l y removed f ro m t h e h a i r b y sham po oing .

I n a r e d i e n t s : yw

D i

ahold A-503

1 7 . 5 0

Dei o n i zed Water 12.7 0

Dow Corning 190 0 . 1 0

SD 40 Alcoho l 69 .50

Lauramide DEA 0 . 1 0

Frag rance OS

Procedure :

Add D ia ho ld A-503

t o

a l co h o l w i t h m i x i n g . Add wa te r an d m i x

w e l l . Add r e ma i ni n g i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r w i t h m i x i n g .

P r o p e r t i s :

Appearance: Pale Ye1

1

ow L i q u i d

pH: 8.2-8.6

Formulat ion CHF-18

SOURCE: Sandoz Ch em ica ls Co rp .: Suggest ed Fo r m ul a ti o ns

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 212/553

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 213/553

Hair Care Products

191

Birch Hair Lotion

Eth a n o l 96%

Bi r c h (wa t e r ) Spec i a1

So f t i g e n 7 6 7

M a r l a z i n KC 3 0 / 5 0

A1 1 a n t o i n

V i t a m i n F

Pant heno l

Water

5 0 . 0

5 . 0

5 . 0

0 . 5

0 . 2

0 . 2

0 . 2

t o

1 0 0 . 0

P r e p a r a t i o n :

u n t i l homogeneous. The pH i s a d j u s te d t o 5 .5 - 6 .5 .

The components a r e m ixed to g e th e r i n sequence a nd s t i r r e d

Invigorat ing Hair Lot ion

I so p ro p a n o l

So f t i g e n 7 6 7

Mar lowet R 40/K

Menthol

Camphor

S t i n g i n g N e t t l e S pe ci a l

Perfume

Water

W S

4 5 . 0

3.0

1

. o

0 . 2

0 . 0 5

1 . o

q s

t o 100 .0

P r e p a r a t i o n :

u n t i l homogeneous. The p H i s a d ju s te d t o 5 . 5- 6. 5.

The components a re m ixed to ge th e r i n sequence and s t i r r e d

Hair Condit ioner

A . M a r l a z i n K C 30/50

C e t y l a l c o h o l

Mar lamid M

1218

C e l l o s i z e

QP

100 MH

Water

6 . Perfume

Co lo u r

P r e s e r v a t i e

P r e p a r a t on

:

The c o n s t i t u e n t s o f A . ar e added to ge th e r i n sequence and

s t i r r e d w h i l e warm u n t i l homogeneous. The i n g r e d i e n t s o f B. a r e

added t o A . a t a p pr o x. 3 0 C . The pH i s a d j u s t e d t o 5 . 5 .

SOURCE:

Huls

A mer i ca I n c . : F o r m u l at i o n s f o r Cosmet ics : Formu las

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 214/553

192 Cosmetic and

Toiletry

Formulations

Brushing Gel

A .

B .

C .

Amihope

LL

POE

( 2 0 ) S o r b i t a n

POE (2 0) S o r b i t a n

POE (25 ) Gl y c e r y l

Pr op yl ene G1 y c o l

Grape Seed O i l

Mono1 a u r a t e

Monosteara te

Wt

0 . 5

0 . 5

0 . 5

Monopyrog lu tamate Mono isosteara te 1 . o

2 . 0

0 . 5

Ca rbo xy v in y l Po lymer (Carbopol 9 4 0 ) ( 1

O w t

s o l u t i o n ) 5 0. 0

Dei on i zed Water ba l anc e

P r e s e r v a t i v e s 0 . 2

10% w t . NaOH S o l u t i o n 2.0

Procedure :

1 . Weigh e ach i n g r e d i e n t ( A ) i n g l a s s v e s s el and m ix .

2 . Add ( 8 ) t o t h e f or m er m i x t u r e and h e a t t o 70-8OC w i t h

3 . A f t e r d i s so l u t i o n , co o l down t o room te m p e ra tu re . Then add

s t i r r i ng .

(C) t o t h e m ixed s o l u t i o n a nd i t t u r n s t o g e l s t a t e .

Note:

combing and le ad s t o smooth combing.

T h i s b r u s h i n g g e l r ed uc es an e l e c t o s t a t i c c ha rg e pr od uc ed by

Hair Brushing Lotion

Amihope LL

POE ( 2 0 ) S o r b i t a n M o n o la u r at e ( P o l y s o r b a t e 2 0 )

Water

E th a n o l

Procedure :

M ix a l l componen ts a t room tempera tu re .

Wt

1

. o

1

. o

50.0

48.0

Note:

smoothness f o r t h e h a i r .

c a t i o n i c s u r f a c t a n t .

Usage:

SOURCE:

A j i n o m o to USA, I n c . : S ug ge st ed F o r m u la t i o n s

T h i s h a i r b r us h in g l o t i o n has good a n t i s t a t i c e f f e c t and

Amihope L i a c t s a s h a i r c o n d i t i o n i n g agent i n s t e a d o f t h e

Spray t h e h a i r b e f o r e b r u s h in g .

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 215/553

Hair

Care

Products 193

Brushing Lotion

Wt

A . AmihoDe LL

0 . 5

PO€

( 2 0 ) So rb i t a n M o n o la u ra te 1 . 5

POE

(25 ) G ly ce ry l Monopyrog lu tamate Mono isos tea ra te

1

. o

Pr op yl ene G1 y c o l 2 .0

€ 3 S t e a r y l A l c oh o l 0 . 5

Carboxyv iny l Po lymer (Carbopo l 941

)

1 5 . 0

Deio n ize d Water ba la nce

P r e s e r v a ti es 0 . 2

(0 .5 wt% so lu t i o n ; n e u t r a l i z e d b y NaOH)

C . Prodew

100

Ethano l

0 .2

5 .0

Procedure :

1 . Weigh ea ch i n g re d i e n t (A) i n g l a ss ve sse l a n d m i x .

2 . Add ( B ) t o t h e fo r m e r m i x t u r e a nd h e a t t o 70 8OC w i t h

3 .

Af te r d i s s o l u t i o n , co o l down t o 50C. Then ad d ( C ) t o t h e

4 . W i t h s t i r r i n g , c o o l down t o room t e m p er a t u re .

Note :

by combing and le ad s t o a smooth combing.

s t i r r ing.

m i

xed s o l u t i on.

T h i s b r u s h i n g l o t i o n re du ce s an e l e c t r o s t a t i c c h ar g e p ro du ce d

Hair Rinse

A . Cetano l

A m i t e r LGOD-2

Wt

3 . 0

5 .0

G l y c e r y l M o no s te a ra t e, S e l f E m u l s i f y i n g (HLB 11 ) 2 . 0

Amihope LL

3 . 0

0. 1 , 3 - B u t y l e n e g l y c o l

Stearyltrimethylammonium Ch o r i d e

Methy lpa raben

Water

Procedure :

1 . D i s s o l v e (A) a t 8 O C .

2 . Di ss o l ve (B) a t 8OC.

3 .

Add ( 8 ) t o

( A ) .

4. M i x t h e m w i t h a homomixer, and co ol t o 30C.

Note:

SOURCE: A j i n o m o to

USA,

I n c . : Suggested Fo rmu la t io ns

T h is creamy h a i r r i n s e has l i g h t f i n i s h i n g t ou ch .

5 .0

3 .0

0 . 2

t h e r e s t

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 216/553

  94

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Clear Condit ioner

C o n d i t i o n i n g p l u s f i l m c l a r i t y m ax imizes t h e n a t u r a l b eau ty

o f t h e h a i r .

I n g r e d i e n t s :

1 . H y d r ox y e t hy l C e l l u l o s e ( N a t r o s o l

250 HHR)

2 . D i s t i 11ed/Dei o n i zed Water

3 . Pro p y le n e G l yco l

4 . EDTA

5. Ammonyx KP (O le al ko ni um C h l o r i d e )

6 , Po ly qu ta 400 (Po lyqua te rn ium-10 )

7. Lane to 50 (PEG-75 L a n o l i n )

8 . R i t a p a n DL (d l -Pa n th e n o l )

9 . R i t a b a t e 20 ( P o l y s o r b a t e 20 )

10.Fragrance #189-724

11.Kathon CG

0 .80

84 .32

5 .00

0 . 1 0

6 .00

1 . o o

0 . 7 5

1

. o o

0 . 8 0

0 . 2 0

0 . 0 3

F u n c t i o n

V i s c o s i t y

Humectant

C1 a r i y

C o n d i t i o n i n g

Combing

C o n d i t i o n i n g

Body

C l a r i t y

Odor

P r e s e r v a t i v e

---- - --- -

Compounding Procedure:

I n 60%

o f

t h e wa te r d i s s o l v e i t e m 1 . Add i t e m 3 , m ix u n t i l

c l e a r . Add i t e m 4 and m i x . I n a s e pa r a t e b ea ke r d i s p e r s e i t e m

6 i n r e m a in i n g w a t e r . M i x u n t i l c l e a r . Add i t e m s 5,7 and 8 i n

o r de r . Combine and add i t em 9 . Add pe r fume and p r es e r va t i ve .

R e f . No. 118-125

Light Hair Condit ioner

A c o n d i t i o n e r d e si g ne d f o r n or ma l / o i 1y ha i r t o maxi m i ze

c o m b a b i l i t y and m a n a g e a b i l i t y . H e lp s keep h a i r c l e a n e r l o n g e r

I n g r e d i e n t s : F u n ct i o n

1 . R i t a C A ( C e t y l A l c o h o l ) 3 .5 0 E m u l s i f i e r , T h i c k e n e r

2 . R ita -CTAC (Ce t r imon ium Ch lo r i de ) 2 . 0 0 C o n d i t i o n e r

3 . Dow C o r n i n g 344 F l u i d 2 . 0 0 S i l k y F e e l ,

4 . R i t a p r o 200 ( R . I . T . A . B le nd ) 2 .0 0 E m u l s i f i e r

5 . C i t r i c Ac i d

@

1 0 0 0 .05 pH Ad jus te r

6 . G l y da n t 0 . 2 0 P r e s e r v a t i v e

7 . D i s t i l l e d /D e i o n i z e d Water go 25

Compounding Procedure:

CTAC and R i t a p r o 2 0 0 a nd h e a t t o 70C. S lo w l y ad d p re -mi x t o

wa te r phase and a g i t a t e . Wh i le m i x i ng coo l t o 45-5OC. Add G lyd an t

and Dow Corning.

L u b r i c a t i o n

H eat w a t e r a nd C i t r i c A c i d t o 65C. P r e- mi x R i t a CA, R i t a -

Re f. No. 116-166

SOURCE: R . I . T . A . Corp . : Suggested Formula t ions

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 217/553

Hair Care Products

195

Clear Gel Hairdressing

Inq re di nt s

:

A M in e ra l o i l , Na ph the n ic , D ra ko l 10B

B r i j 97

A r l a t o n e

G

P r o p y l e n e g l y c o l

Sorbo

B Water, de i on i zed

C *Pe rfume #44575, F r i t z s c h e Br o t he rs

13.70

1 5 . 5 0

1 5 . 5 0

8 . 6 0

6 .9 0

39.80

f q .

s . t h e s e i g r e di e n t s .

Procedure :

Cool

t o 70C and add ( C) . S t i r u n t i l u n i f o r m and po ur w h i l e

s t i l l f l u i d .

Heat (A) and

8 )

t o 9OC. Add ( B) t o ( A ) w i t h g e n t l e s t i r r i n g .

Water/Oil Hair Dressing

I n q r e d i e n t s :

A P e t r o l a t u m

M in er al o i l

Lanol in

A r l a c e l 8 3

Beeswax

Z i nc s t e a r a t e

B Borax

Wa te r , d e i o n i ze d

C *F ragrance and Pr es e r va t i ve

*q. s ,

t he se i n g r e d i e n t s .

&yl

7 .5 0

37.50

3 .0 0

3 . 0 0

2 . 0 0

1 . o o

0 . 5 0

45.50

Procedure :

moderate b u t tho rough a g i t a t i o n . Add (C) a t 45C.

S t i r

u n t i l

Heat (A) t o 75C. Heat

( B )

t o 77C. Add ( 8 ) t o ( A) s l o w l y w i t h

room temperature and package.

SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : S ug ge st ed F o r m u l at i o n s

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 218/553

196 Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations

Clear 'N' Natural Condit ioner

T h is c l e a r c o n d i t i o n e r a cq u i re s i t s v i s c o s i t y f rom t h e

s u p er i o r t h i c k e n i n g p r o p e r t i e s o f C r o t h i x* .

P a r t

A :

Oeioni zed water 87 .5

Cr ov ol PK-70 (PEG-45 Palm Kern el G ly c er id es ) 3 . 0

P a r t E :

P r o c e t y l AWS (PPG-5 Ce te th 20) 3. 0

C r o t h i x * (PEG-150 P e n t a e r y t h r i t y l T e t r a s t e a r a t e ) 2 . 0

P a r t C :

I n c r o q u a t 0-50 (O le al ko niu m Ch lo r i d e ) 2 . 0

Incroquat EA-85 (Babassuamidopropalkonium C h l o r i d e ) 0 . 5

P a r t D :

T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e

99%

qs t o pH 6

P a r t

E :

Pro p yle n e G l y co l ( a n d)

D i

azo1 i d i ny l Urea (and ) Me thy l

Paraben (and) Pr op yl Paraben** 1

. o

H y d r o t r i t i c u m WAA (Wheat Amino Ac id s ) 1

. o

Procedure :

Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t A and he at t o 80-85C. When Pa r t

A

i s homogeneous, add Pa r t B w i t h m i x i n g u n t i l u n i fo r m . Add

P a r t C w i t h m i x i n g and c o o l b a t c h t o 30-35C. A d j u s t pH t o

6 .0 + -0 .5 u s i n g Pa r t 0. Add Pa r t E w i t h m i x i ng .

covered under

U . S .

Patent #5,192,462.

I n a r e d i e n t s :

3

**Germaben I 1 N . A . T . C . Approved

Formula HP-165

*The use o f C r o t h i x i n c os me ti c and o t h e r f o r m u l a t io n s i s

Cream of Wheat C onditioner

T h i s c o n d i t i o n e r g i v e s e x c e l l e n t c o n d i t i o n i n g / m o i s t u r i z i n g

c h a r a c t e r i s t i c s .

I n e r e d i e n t s :

9

P a r t A :

Pol awax (Emu1 s i y i ng Wax N F ) 5.00

Inc roqua t Beheny l TMS (Behen t r imon ium Methosu l fa te

( an d) C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l ) 3 . 0 0

Super R e f i n e d Wheat Germ

O i l

(Wheat Germ

O i l )

2 .5 0

Par t E :

De io n ize d Water 85 .50

P a r t

C :

Cro p e p t i d e

W

(H yd ro l yz ed Wheat P r o t e i n (and) Wheat

01 g o sa cch a r i d e s ) 3 .0 0

Germaben I 1 1 . o o

Procedure :

Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g a nd h e a t t o 75C.

H ea t P a r t B t o 75C. Add P a r t B t o P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g and c o o l

t o 45C. Add i n g r e d i e n t s f r om P a r t C s e q u e n t i a l l y w i t h m i x i ng

and c oo l t o d e s i r e d

f i l l

t e m p e ra tu re .

p H : 4.5+-0.5

Viscosi ty : 50,OOOcps+- lO%

N.A.T .C. Appr ove d Formul a HP-164

SOURCE: Croda Inc.: Suggested Formula t ions

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 219/553

Hair Care

Products

197

Conditioner and Setting Lotion

Wei a h t ,

Macka lene 316 (Stearam idopropy l D imethy lamine La ct a t e ) 4 . 0

Gafquat 755

8.0

Mackol

16

( C e t y l A l c o h o l )

0 . 5

Ua cks ta t DM (DMDM Hydanto in ) qs

Water , Dye, Fragrance qs t o 100.0

Procedure :

1 . C o mp le t el y d i s p e r s e G a fq ua t 755 i n w a t e r .

2 . Add Mackalene 316 and Mackol 16 and he at t o

70

degrees C .

3. 61 end u n t i 1 co mp le te ly homogeneous.

4 . Cool t o 4 5 degrees C . and add remaining components.

5. Coo1 and f i l l

Curl Conditioner and Oil Sheen

Wei Qht ,

G l y c e r i n e

4 7 . 0

Pro p y le n e G l yco l 3 . 0

Mackpro NLP (Quatern ium-79 Hyd ro ly zed An ima l P r o t e i n )

( Na tu ra l L i p i d P r o t e i n )

4 . 0

Mackanate DC-30 (D iso diu m Dim eth ico ne Co pol yol

S u l f o s u c c i n a t e ) 3 . 0

Macks ta t DM

(DMDM

Hyd a n to i n )

qs

De io n i ze d Water q s t o 100 .0

Procedure :

Add comDonents i n o r d e r a nd b l e n d u n t i l c l e a r .

Foaming Conditioner

Wei a h t ,

Macka lene 116 (Cocamidopropy l D imethy la mine La ct a t e ) 15 .0

Mackpro NLP (Quatern ium-79 Hy dr o ly ze d Animal P r o t e i n )

( N at u ra l L i p i d P r o t e i n )

4 .0

N a t r o s o l

2 5 0

HHR

0.7

Mackam 35 (Cocami do pr op yl B e t a i ne ( V i a Gl y c e r i d e) 1 0 . 0

Macks ta t DM (DMDM Hydan to in ) qs

Water, Dye, Fragrance qs t o 1 00 .0

Procedure :

1 . T ho ro ug hl y d i s p e r s e t h e N a t r o s o l i n w at er and h e a t t o

4 5

2 . Add Mackam 35, Mackale ne 116 and Mackpro NLP.

3 B le nd u n t i l c l e a r .

4 . Add Mackstat DM, f rag rance and dye .

5 .

Cool

and

f i

11.

SOURCE: M c In t y r e G rou p L t d . : Pe rson a l C a r e Formu la ry

degrees

C .

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 220/553

  98

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Conditioner with Croquat HH

T h i s creamy w h i t e c o n d i t i o n e r o f f e r s t h e s u b s t a n t i v i t y

b e n e f i t s of q u a t e r n i z i n g w i t h t h e permanant c o n d i t i o n i n g

p o t e n t i a1

o f

a c y s t e i n e -c o nt a i n i ng p r o t e i n .

P a r t A :

I n c r o q u a t S-85 (S te a ra l ko n iu m Ch lo r i d e )

1 .50

Po l awax (Emu ls i f y i ng Wax NF) 4 .50

Crodaco l CS-50 ( Ce tea ry l A lc oh o l ) 5 . 6 0

Crodamol

W

(S te a ry l He p ta n o a te ) 6.50

In cr oc as 40 (PEG-40 Cas tor O i l ) 2 .75

P a r t 8 :

Dei on i zed Water 75.1 5

P a r t C :

Cro quat HH (Cocodimonum Hy dro xy pro py l H yd rol yz ed Ha i r

K e r a t i n ) 3 .0 0

P a r t

D :

P r op y le n e G l y c o l ( a nd ) D i a z o l i d i n y l U rea ( a nd ) Me t hy l

Paraben (and) Pr op yl Paraben* 1 . o o

Hea t Pa r t

B

t o 75-80C. Add P ar t

B

t o P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g, w h i l e

a v o id i n g a e r a t i o n , and co o l t o 55C. Add Pa r t C w i t h m i x i n g a n d

coo l t o 40C. Add Par t

D

w i t h m i x i n g a nd c o o l t o d es i r e d

f i

1

te m p e ra tu re .

I n n r e d i a n t s :

3

Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t

A

w i t h m i x i n g a nd h e a t t o 75-80C.

pH: 4.0+-0.5

V i sco s i t y : 3 5 ,0 0 0 + -1 0 % ( @ 25C)

* Germaben I 1

N . A . T . C .

Approved

Formula HP-172

High Performance Creme Rinse Conditioner

T h is f o r m u l a t i o n g i v es e x c e l l e n t c o n d i t i o n i n g t o h a i r .

I n a r e d i e n t s :

P a r t

A :

Crodafos CES (Ce te a r y l a l co h o l (an d) Ce t e a ry l ph o sp h ate )

6.00

Inc roqua t Beheny l

TMS

(Behen t r imon ium Me tho su l fa t e (and )

C e t e ar y l A l c o h o l ) 1 - 0 0

Propy l pa raben 0 .1 0

Vo lpo S-2 (S t ea r e th -2 ) 0 .50

Crodaco l C-70 (C e t y l A l co ho l ) 2 .00

Crodamol PTIS ( P e n t a e r y t h r i t y l T e t r a i s o s t e a r a t e )

1

. o o

P a r t B :

De ion i zed Water 87.98

In cr om ec ta nt LAMEA (A ce tam ide MEA (an d) La ct am id e MEA) 1.00

Methy l paraben 0 .10

P a r t

C :

TEA 99% 0 .3 2

Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t

B

w i t h m i x i n g a nd h e a t t o 6 5-70C.

Add Par t

B

t o P a r t

A

w i t h m i x i n g an d co o l t o 40C. Co n t in u e

m ix i n g and ad d P a r t

C .

Cool t o d e s i r e d

f i l l

t e m p e ra tu re .

pH: 4.50+-0.5

V i sco s i t y : 5 6 ,0 0 0 + -1 0 %

N . A . T . C .

App rove d Form ula HP-178-1

SOURCE: Cr oda I n c .

:

S ugges t ed Fo r m u la t i ons

Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t

A

w i t h m i x i n g a nd h ea t t o 6 5- 70 .

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 221/553

Hair

Care Products

199

Cream Curl Activator

Formula:

Phase A :

Deio n ize d Water

H y dr o xy p ro py l M e t h y l c e l l u l o s e

T r i

et ha no l ami ne

Pantheno l

Hydro1yzed

S i 1

k P r o t e i n ( I keda)

Q ua ter n i urn-1 5

Phase 6:

Macol

C P S

S o l u l a n 1 6

C a r n a t i o n M i n e r a l O i l

Masi 1

656

F l u i d

Masi 1 SF-V F l u i d

Masi l 280

Phase C :

C i t r i c A c id 50

Fragrance

%Wt.

80.43

0 .2 0

0.02

1

. o o

1 . o o

0 .3 0

6.00

1 . o o

2 . 0 0

3 .00

3.00

2.00

0 . 0 5

q . s .

Procedure :

D i s p e r s e Hy d r o xy p r o py l M e t h y l c e l l u l o s e i n t h e w a t er ; add TEA

t o i n i t i a t e h yd r a t i o n . A f t e r 20 m in s. add r em ai ni ng A i n g r e d i -

e nt s , h e a t t o 55C and s t i r . S e pa r at e l y b l e n d 6 and h ea t t o 55C.

Add

6

t o A , m a i n t a i n a g i t a t i o n w h i l e c o o l i n g t o 40C. A d j u s t pH

and add f rag rance .

Hair Relaxer Emulsion

S t e a r y l a l c o h o l

PEG-75 1a n o l i

Wh i te P ro to p e t

Emu1 s i y i ng wax

S

P e t r o l a t u m

P r o p y l e n e g lyco

H y d r ol y z ed a ni ma l p r o t e i n

S t e a r i c a c i d

Sodi um h y d r o x i de, 50%

F ra g ra n ce

Water

Percent

14 .00

4.00

18.00

5 . 5 0

5.00

5.00

1

.50

6.00

0 . 3 0

q.s.100.00

SOURCE: Wi tco Co rp . : Pe tro le u m S p e c ia l t i e s G ro up : Sug ge sted

F o r m u l a t i o n s

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 222/553

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 223/553

Hair Care Products

2 1

Cream Hair Rinse

I n q r e d i e n t s :

C e t y l a l c o h o l

B r i j

721s

F o re s ta l 1

Wate r , de ion ized

o/ w/w

1 . 5 0

1 . o o

1 . 4 0

96 .10

Procedure :

s t i r r i n g and add makeup w a t e r .

Formula PC-8214

Heat t o 70 deg.

C

w i t h s t i r r i n g u n t i l u n i fo rm . Cool w i t h

Hydrogen Peroxide Emulsion

I nqr ed

i

n t s :

A

C e t y l a l c o h o l

B r i j 721, S t ea r et h -2 1

S i l i c o n e o i l , 350 c s .

w

6 . 0 0

5 .0 0

0 I

50

B Wate r , de io n i zed 66 .30

C Hydrog en p e ro x i d e , 27% d i l u t i o n g ra de 22 * 20

Procedure :

modera te a g i t a t i o n . Add (C) be low 35C. Rep lace wa te r l o s t by

e v a p o r a t i on and a d j u s t pH t o 3. 5 - 4. 0 w i t h d i l u t e p h o sp h o ri c

a c i d (10% C . P . ) . Package i n s u i t a b l e c o n t a i ne r f o r p o s s i b l e

e v o l u t i on o f oxygen.

Formula HC-13

Heat (A ) t o 60C and ( B ) t o 65C. Add ( B ) t o ( A) s l o w ly w i t h

Permanent Wave Lotion

I n a r e d i e n t s :

A F o r e s t a l l

B r i j 35 S P

Wate r, de io n i zed

w/w

1 . 4 0

2 . 0 0

80.10

B

Et han ol ami ne 9. 50

C

T h i o g l y c o l i c a c i d 7 . 0 0

Procedure :

Add ( C ) . A d j u s t pH t o 9 . 0- 9 .5 w i t h a d d i t i o n a l e t ha n ol a mi n e o r

t h i o g l y c o l i a c i d .

Formula HC-15

SOURCE:

IC1

Su r f a c ta n t s : Sug ge sted F o rm u la t i o n s

M i x ( A) w i t h g e n t l e he at i f n ec es sa ry u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add

( B ) .

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 224/553

2 2

Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations

Deep Conditioning Treatment

Deep c o n d i t i o n i n g f o r m u l a bas ed on a c o n t r o l l e d d e p o s i t i o n

o f C h o le s t e ro l

I n a r e d i e n t s

1 . D i s t i 1 ed /D e i on i zed Water

2 . P ro p yle n e G l yc o l

3 . R i t a c h o l ( R . I . T . A . Blend )

4 . Ri ta -STAC (S tea r t r imon ium Ch lo r ide )

5 .

Ch o l es te ro l NF

6 .

Sup er sat AWS-4 (PEG-20 Hy dr og en at ed

L a n o l i n )

7 . R i tacho l 1000

( R . I . T . A .

B le n d )

8 .

P e t r o l a t u m

9.

Frag rance

10. Kathon

CG

F u n c t i o n

75.17

---------

3 . 0 0 M o i s t u r e

2 .0 0 Co n t ro l

1 .50 Condi t i ner

1 .0 0 Re p a i r

2 . 0 0 Repa i r

5 .00 Repa i r

0.30 Odor

0 . 0 3 P r e s e r v a t i v e

I O , 0 E m u l s i f i e r

Compounding Procedure:

combine i t em s 3-8 and heat t o 70C. Mi x and add t o water phase

w i t h good m ix i n g . Coo l t o 50C an d add p er fum e an d p r e s e r va t i ve .

Combine items 1 and

2

and h ea t t o 75-8OC. I n a separa te beaker

Ref. No. 118-116

Intensive Co nditioner

with

Body

A d e t a n g l i n g c o n d i t i o n e r w i t h g r e a t w et / dr y combing. H a i r

has in cr ea se d body/vo lume.

I n a r e d i e n t s : F u n c t i o n

1 . Rita -BTAC (Be he n tr imo n iu m Ch l o r i d e ) 4 .0 0 Co n d i t i o n e r , A n t i -

S t a t i c

2 . R i t a

CA

( C e t y l A l c o h o l )

3 .00 Emuls i

f

i r ,

Th ickener

3 . R i t a

SA

( S t e a r y l A l c oh o l )

1 . O O E m u l s i f i e r , T h i c k e n e r

5 . V o l a t i l e S i l i c o n e F l u i d 344 o r 345 5. 00 L u b r i c a n t , E m o l l i e n t

6 . S i l i c o n e F l u i d 200 ( 10 0 c S t ) 5 .0 0 L u b r i c a n t , E mo ll i n t

7. Wheat Germ O i 1 1.00 Nour ishment

8 .

G lyd a n t

0.20

P r e s e r v a t i v e

Compounding Procedure:

Heat i t em s 1-3 t o 70C. Heat wat er t o 80-85C. Add i t em s 1-3

t o w ate r a nd mix u n t i l i t re ac he s 50C. Then add ite ms 5-7 and

m i x .

A t

45C add i te ms 8 . Mix u n t i l 35-4OC.

SOURCE: R . I . T . A . Corp . : Suggested Form ula t ions

4. D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 8 0. 80 ----.---------

Ref.

No.

116-170

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 225/553

Hair

Care Products 2 3

Ethnic Hair Care

Clear Hair Rinse

I n a r e d i e n t s :

Water

H y d r o x y p r o p y l M e t h y l c e l l u l o s e

P r e s e r v a t i v e

Pro pyle ne G1 y c o l

G1 yce r

i

Q u a t e r n iurn-80 (Ab i 1 Quat 3272 )

D im e th i con e Co p o lyo l ( A b i l

B

88183)

PEG-30 Gly ce ry l La ur a t e (Tagat L )

F rag rance

91.30

1 .20

3 .0 0

2 .oo

0 .50

1 . o o

1 . o o

Q . S .

Q.S.

Procedure :

1 . Add th e wa te r a nd p r e s e r va t i ve . Hea t t o 50C. M i x . D i sp e rse

2 . Add t h e re m a in in g i n g re d i e n t s . Co ol t o 35C.

3 . P r e b l e n d t h e T a g at L and f r a gr a n ce . Add t o b at c h . M i x u n t i l

t h e HMC. M i x u n t i l c l e a r .

c l e a r u s i n g s l o w sp ee d.

Ethnic Hair Care

Hair Dressings

I n q r e d i e n t s :

Water

H y dr o xy p ro py l M e t h yl c e l l u l ose

P r e s e r v a t i v e

P r o w l e n e G l y c ol

G1 yce r i

Quatern ium-80 ( A b i l Quat 3272)

D im e th i con e Co p o l yo l (A b i l B 88183)

PEG-30 Glycery l Laurate (Tagat L )

Frag rance

w/w

91 .30

1 .20

3 .0 0

2.00

0.50

1 .oo

1 . o o

Q.S.

Q.S.

Procedure :

1 . Add th e wa te r a nd p r e s e r va t i ve . He a t t o 50C. M i x . D i sp e rse

2 .

Add t h e re m a in i n g i n g re d i e n t s . Coo l t o 35C.

3 . P r e b l e n d t h e Ta ga t L and f r a g r a n c e . Add t o b at c h . M i x u n t i l

SOURCE: Go1 dschmi d t Ch em ical Cor p . : Suggested Formul a t i ons

t h e HMC. M i x u n t i l c l e a r .

c l e a r u s i n g s l ow spe ed .

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 226/553

2 4

Cosmetic

and

Toiletry Formulations

Ethnic Hair Care

Curl Activation Gels

Hair Repair

I n g r e d i e n t s :

9bw/w

T e t r a s o d i um EDTA 0 . 1 0

Water 75.80

G l y c e r i n 5 . 0 0

Prop y len e G1 yc o l 15 .00

Carbomer 940 0 .7 5

D im e th i co n e Co p o l yo l

( A b i l

B 88183)

1 .oo

Dim e th i co n e P ro p y l PG Be ta i n e ( A b i l B 9 95 0) 0 .5 0

Dime thicone /Sodium PG Propy l D ime th ic one T h i o s u l f a t e

Copo lymer (Ab i l S

2 0 1 ) 1

. o o

PEG-30 G l y c e r y l La ur a t e (Tagat L ) 0 .50

Fragrance

Q . S .

P r e s e r v a t i v e s

Q . S .

Tr ie than o lam ine (99%) 0 .35

Procedure :

1 . M i x t h e w a t e r , G l y c e r i n , P r o p yl e n e G l y c o l , and T e t r as o d iu m

2 . Add t h e r e s t o f t h e i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r , m i x i n g w e l l between

3 . N e u t r a l i z e t h e C arbomer w i t h S odium H y d r ox i d e s o l u t i o n or

EDTA t o g e t h e r . D i sp er se t h e Carbomer 940.

a d d i t i o n s . N o te : P r e b le n d t h e T ag at L and f r a g r a n c e .

t h e T r i et h a no l a mi n e .

Ethnic Hair Care

Pump Spray-on Moisturizing/Oil-Sheens

Conditioning Sheen

I n g r e d i e n t s :

Water

72.00

Tetrasodium EDTA

0 . 1 0

Pro py le ne G1 yc o l

1 0 . 0 0

G1 y c e r

i

15.00

Quatern ium-80 ( A b i l Quat 3272)

0.40

Dime th ic one Pr opy l PG Be ta i ne ( A b i l B

9950)

0 . 2 5

Dimeth ic one Copo lyo l (Ab i

1

B

88183) 0 . 7 5

PEG-75 L a n o l i n

0 . 7 5

PEG-30 G ly ce ry l La ur a t e (Tagat L )

0 .5 0

PEG-I8 G l yc e r y l Cocoate /O lea te ( A n t i l 171) 0 .25

Fragrance

Q . S .

P r e s e r v a t i v e s Q . S .

Procedure :

1

Heat water t o 50C. Di ss o l ve Te t r asod ium EDTA.

2 . Add t h e T ag at L , A n t i l 1 71 , a nd PEG-75 L a n o l i n . M i x u n t i l

c l e a r .

3 . Add t h e r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r , m i x i n g between a d d i -

t i o n s .

4 . A d j u s t p H .

SOURCE: Goldsc hmid t Chemical Cor p.: Suggested Fo rm ul at io ns

C i t r i c A c i d (25% s o l u t i o n ) T O pH 5-6

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 227/553

Hair Care

Products

2 5

Ethnic Hair Care

Curl Activation Gel

For Shine

I n a r e d i e n t s :

T et ra s od i um

EDTA

Water

G1 yce r

i

Pro p y le n e G l yco l

Carbomer 940

D im e th i con e Co p o l yo l (A b i l

B

8851)

D im e th i con e Co p o l yo l ( A b i l B 88183)

PEG-30 Gl yc er y l La ur a t e (Tagat L )

F rag rance

P r e s e r v a t i v e s

Sodium Hydrox ide (25% S o l u t i on )

0 .10

76.65

15.00

5 . 00

0 . 7 5

1 .oo

1 . o o

0 .50

Q . S .

Q . S .

t o pH 6

Procedure :

1 . M i x t h e w a t e r, G l y c e r i n , P r op y le n e G l y c o l , and T e tr a so d iu m

2 . Add t h e r e s t o f t h e i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d er , m i x i n g w e l l between

3 N e u t r a l i z e t h e Carbomer w i t h S odium H y dr o xi de s o l u t i o n o r

EDTA to ge th e r. Dis per se t h e Carbomer 940.

a d d i t i o n s . N o te : P r eb l en d t h e T ag at L a nd f r a g r a n c e .

t h e T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e.

Ethnic Hair Care

Curl

Activation Gel

Moisturizing

I

n a r ed i e n t s

:

T et r as od i um EDTA

Water

G l y c e r i n

P ro p y le n e G l yco l

Carbomer 940

D im e th i con e Co p o lyo l ( A b i l B 88183)

D ime th icone Propy l PG B e t a in e ( A b i l B 9950)

PEG-30 Gl yc er y l La ur a t e (Tagat L )

F rag rance

P r e s e r v a t i v e s

T r i e th a n o la m in e (9 9 %)

%w/w

0.10

76.30

10.00

10.00

0 .75

1 .oo

1 . o o

0 .5 0

Q . S .

Q . S .

0 .35

Procedure :

1 . M i x t h e wa te r, G l y ce r i n , P ro p yle n e G l y co l , an d T e t raso d iu m

EDTA to ae t he r . DisDer se t h e Carbomer

940.

2 . Add th e - re s t of t h e i n g r e d i e n t s i n or d e r, m i x i n g we

a d d i t i o n s . N ot e: P r eb l en d t h e T ag at L and f ragrance

3 . Ne u t ra l i ze t h e Carbomer w i t h Sodium Hyd ro x i d e s o l u t

t h e T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e .

SOURCE: Goldschmi

d t

Chemical Corp

:

Suggested Formul a t

1 between

o n o r

o n s

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 228/553

206 Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations

Ethnic Hair Care

Leave-In Moisturizing/Sheen

I n a r e d i e n t s :

Phase

A:

T e t ra so d iu m

EDTA

Water

O le th -2 0

D i m e th i c on e C o p o ly o l ( A b i l B 88183)

Quatern ium-80 ( A b i l Quat 3272)

G1 y c e r i

Phase B:

PEG-30

G l y c e r y l L a u r a t e (T ag at L)

Fragrance

P r e s e r v a t i v e

Procedure :

1 . A d d t h e w a te r , O le th -2 0, h e a t t o 40C. M i x u n t i l c l e a r .

2 . Add th e re m a in i n g i n g re d i e n t s o f Phase

A

m i x i n g each u n t i

3 . Add t h e f r a g r a n c e t o t h e T aga t L . M i x w e l l - add t o Phase

4 . Cool w i t h m i x i n g - a d d p r e s e r v a t i v e s .

c l e a r .

0 .1

77.9

2 .0

3 . 0

0 .5

1 5 . 0

1 . 5

Q . S .

Q S

A .

Ethnic Hair Care

Hair Cuticle Coat Condit ioner

I n a r e d i e n t s :

Cyc lometh icone (and) Dimeth icono l (and) Dimeth icone

( A b i l OSW 12)

Cyc lometh icone

Isohexadecane o r M i n e r a l

Oil

I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e ( T eg o so f t

M )

O c t y l S t e a r a t e ( T e g o s o ft OS)

Pheny l T r ime th icone ( A b i l

AV

2 0 )

Fragrance

Procedure :

Combine a l l i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r de r w i t h m i x in g .

w/w

5 5 . 0

25.0

10.0

3 . 0

2 .0

5 . 0

Q . S .

SOURCE: Goldschmid t Chemical Cor p . : Suggested For mu la t ion s

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 229/553

Hair Care Products 207

Ethnic Hair Care

Pump Spray-on Moisturizing/Oil-Sheens

Moisturizing Sheen

I n g r e d i e n t s :

Water

T et ra s od i um EDTA

Pr opy len e G1 y c o l

G1 y c e r i n

D ime th icone Propy l PG Beta ine (AB11 B 9950)

D im e th i con e Co p o lyo l ( A b i l B 88183)

PEG-75 Lanol i n

PEG-30 Gl yc er y l La ur a t e (Tagat L )

PEG-18 G l yc e r y l Cocoa te /O lea te ( A n t i l 171 )

Fragrance

P r e s e r v a t i v e s

C i t r i c A c i d (25% s o l u t i o n )

Procedure :

1 . Hea t wa te r t o 50C. D i ss o l ve Te t rasod ium EDTA

Z

72.40

0 .10

10.00

15.00

0.50

0 .50

0.75

0 .5 0

0 .25

Q.S.

Q.S.

T O

pH 5-6

2. Add t h e Tagat L , A n t i l 171, and PEG-75 La no l i n . M ix u n t i l

c l e a r .

3 . Add t h e r e m a in i n g i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r , m i x i n g betw een

a d d i t i o n s .

4 . Ad just pH.

Ethnic Hair Care

Pump Spray-on Moisturizing/Oil-Sheens

Extra Sheen

I n g r e d i e n t s :

Water

Tetrasodium EDTA

Pro p y le n e G l yco l

G1 y c e r i n

D ime th icone Propy l PG B e t a i n e ( A b i l

B

9950)

D im e th i con e Co p o lyo l ( A b i l

B

88183)

PEG-75 Lanol i n

PEG-30 G l yc e r y l C ocoa te /O lea te ( A n t i l 171 )

Fragrance

P r e s e r v a t i v e s

C i t r i c A c id (25% s o l u t i o n )

Procedure :

1 . Hea t wa te r t o 50C. D i ss o l ve Te t rasod ium E D T A .

?vJy

66.15

0 .10

10.00

20.00

0 .75

1 .50

0 . 7 5

0 .2 5

Q.S.

Q.S.

T O

pH 5-6

2 . Add t h e Taga t L, A n t i l 1 71, a nd PEG-75 L a n o l i n . M i x u n t i l

c l e a r .

3 . Add t h e r e m a i n in g i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r , m i x i n g betw een

add i t i ns .

4 . Adjust pH.

SOURCE: Goldschm id t Chemica l Co rp . : Suggested Form ula t ions

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 230/553

208 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Ethnic Hair Glosser/Condit ioner

T h i s w a t e r - i n - o i l f or m ul a based on a s i l i c o n e D o lv m er i c

e m u l s i f i e r i s d es ig ne d f o r use

g i v e g l o s s and body e s p e c i a l l y

t r e a t e d .

I n a r e d i e n t s :

Phase A : O i l Phase:

Ce ty l D ime th icone Copo lyo l (Ab

P e t r o l a t u m

M i n e r a l O i l

as a l ea v e on c o n d i t i o n e r t o

f o r h a i r w hi ch h as been c h e m i c a l l y

1 EM-90)

Ce ty l D im eth icone Copo lyo l ( A b i l Wax 9801)

Oc ty l P a l m i ta te (Tegos o f t OP)

I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e ( T e g o so f t P)

L a n o l i n O i l

P he ny l T r i m e t h i c o n e ( A b i l

AV

20)

Phase B:

F rag rance

Phase

C :

Water Phase:

Water

Sod ium Ch lor ide

G l y c e r i n

P r e s e r v a t i v e s

2 . 0

6 . 0

10.0

2 .0

3 . 5

3 . 5

3 . 0

2 .0

Q . S .

64 .3

0 . 7

3 .0

Q.S.

Procedure :

1 . B lend t h e components o f Phase

A

t o g e th e r , h e a t i n g t o 5OC.

2 . C o ol t o 40-45C w i t h a g i t a t i o n . Add f r a g r a n c e .

3 . I n a sepa ra e ves se l , m ix th e componen ts t o Phase C t o g e t h e r .

4 . Add Phase C t o Phase A / B s l o w ly w i t h s low l i g h t n i n g mix .

5 . Homogeni ze.

M ix u n t i l f u l l y d i s pe rs ed .

M ix u n t i l a 1 w ate r i s i n c o r p or a te d i n t o t h e o i l phase.

Ethnic Pump Spray Conditioner

I n a r e d i e n t s :

Water

P ro p y le n e G l yco l

G l y c e r i n

D ime th icone Copo lyo l ( A b i l

B

88183)

Quatern ium-80 ( A b i l Quat 3272)

Pantheno l

T o co p h e ro l Ace ta te (V i t a m in E )

P r e s e r v a t i v e s

Procedure :

Combine a l l i n g r e d i e n t s i n o rd e r w i t h m i x in g .

&y&

8 2 .2

7 . 5

7 .5

2 .0

0 .5

0 . 2

0 .1

Q . S .

SOURCE: Gold sch mi d t Che mical Co rp .

:

Suggested Formul a t i ns

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 231/553

Hair Care

Products 2 9

Ethnic Hair Glosser/Extra Condit ioning

T h i s w a t e r - i n - o i l f o r m ul a based on a s i l i c o n e p o l y m e r i c

e m u l s i f i e r i s de sig ne d f o r use as a le a ve on c o n d i t i o n e r t o

g i ve g l o s s and b ody e sp e c ia l l y f o r h a i r whi ch h as been chem-

i

a l l y t r e a t e d

I n a r e d i e n t s :

Phase

A : O i l

Phase:

Ce ty l D imeth icone Copo lyo l ( A b i l EM-90)

P e t r o l a t u m

M i n e r a l O i l

Ce ty l Dimeth icone ( A b i l Wax 9801)

O c ty l Pa lm i t a t e (T e g o so f t OP)

I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e ( T e g os o f t

P )

L a n o l i n O i l

Ph e n y l T r im e th i co n e (Ab i l A V 20)

Quatern ium-80 ( A b i l Quat

3474)

Phase 8 :

Fragrance

Phase

C :

Water Phase:

Water

Sod ium Ch lo r ide

G1 yce r i

P r e s e r v a t i v e s

%&y&

2 . 0

6 . 0

1 0 . 0

2 .0

3.5

3 . 0

3 . 0

2 . 0

0.5

Q . S

64.3

0.7

3.0

Q . S

Procedure :

1 . Blen d t h e components o f Phase A t o g e t h e r

-

h e a t in g t o 50C.

2 .

Cool t o 40-45C w i t h a g i t a t i o n

-

a d d f ra g ra n ce .

3. I n a sepa ra te vess e l , m ix th e componen ts t o Phase C t o g e t h e r .

4. Add Phase

C

t o Phase A / B s l o w l y w i t h s low l i g h t n i n g mi x.

5 . Homogeni ze .

M ix u n t i l f u l l y d isp er se d.

M ix u n t i l a l l w a t er i s i nc or po ra te d i n t o t h e o i l phase.

Ethnic Hair Care

Extra Conditioning Coat Condit ioner

I n a r e d i e n t s

:

Cyclometh icone (and) Dimeth icono l (and)

( A b i l

OSW

12)

Cyc l omethi cone

Isohexadecane o r M ine ra l

O i l

O cty l Pa lm i t a t e (T e g o so f t OP)

O c t y l S t e a r a t e ( T e g o s o f t OS)

P he ny l T r i m e t h i c o n e ( A b i l AV 20)

Quatern ium-80 ( A b i l Quat 3474)

D i

met hi cone

50.0

30.5

8.0

3.0

3.0

5.0

0.5

Procedure :

SOURCE:

Go1 dschmi d t Chemical Cor p, : Suggested Formul a t i ons

Combine a l l i n g r e d i e n t s i n or d e r w i t h m i x i ng .

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 232/553

21 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Extra Hold Condit ioning Mousse

I ater

Amphomer

A m i

nomethy l Propano l

Dow Corning 929 Emuls ion

Phosphol

i

i d EFA

SD3A Alcohol

11. H y d r o x y e t h y l C e l l u l o s e

Water

I

1. Prope l 1 an t

by Wei Ph t

37.35

3.75

0.60

0 . 4 0

0 .60

10.00

0.30

37.00

10.00

Procedure :

c a r e f u l l y s p r i n k l e h y dr ox ye th y l c e l l u l o s e i n t o wa t er w i t h good

a g i t a t i o n . Heat may be a p p l i e d t o h e l p s o l u b i l i z a t i o n . B le nd

P a r t I1 t o I and t h e n a e r o s o l i z e .

P re p a re Pa r t I nd I 1 s e p a r a t e l y . To p r e p a r e P a r t 11,

Formula F-554

Leave-On Hair Conditioner

I n q r e d i e n t s :

Water

H y d r o x y e t h y l C e l l u l o s e

G l y c o l

Di

s t e a r a t e

C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l

Monaquat TG

Phosphol

i

i d EFA

Methyl Paraben

Propy l Paraben

bv Weiqht

90

I 2

0 .5

1 .5

1 . 8

5 . 5

0 . 3

0 . 1

0 . 1

Procedure

Charge

a g i t a t i o n

S t i r c o o l

w a te r , s l o w l y add h y d r o x y e t h y l c e l l u l o s e w i t h good

t o b l e n d 40C a nd a dd f ra g ra n c e , co l o r , e t c . Packa ge .

. Add rema in ing in g r ed ie n ts and hea t t o 65-7OC.

W h it e P e a r l e d L o t i o n

V i s c o s i t y : 2 5 0 0

cp

p H : 5 . 6

SOURCE: Mona In d u s t r i e s , I n c . : Sug ge sted F o rm u la t i o n s

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 233/553

Hair Care Products 211

Firm Hold Hairspray

I n n r e d i e n t s :

Resyn 28-291 3

AMP

C r o t e i n AD Anhydrous

DC- 190

Armeed DM18D

Frag rance

Anhydrous Ethanol, SDA-40

Pr ope l 1 a n t A-46

Pa r t s b y Weig ht

2 .50

0.24

0.20

0 .20

0 .15

71 - 7 1

25.00

Q.S.

Va lve : Seaqu is t

NS-41

Stem:

2

x 0 .02 0 (A ce t a l )

Stem Ga sk et : Buna N 0.042 '' Sp r i ng : 0 .023 302 SS

Body: 0.06 2 (N ylo n) 0.020' '

VT

Mou nti ng Cup: R egu lar , Epoxy Top/Bottom, Dim pled

A c t u a t o r : 0. 02 0 M i s t y , A c e t a l ( b l a c k )

D i s s o l v e AMP i n anhydrous e t ha no l , SDA-40. S l ow ly add

Pre p a ra t

i

n :

Resyn 28-2913 t o t h e s o l u t i o n w h i l e m a i n t a i n i n g good a g i t a t i o n .

Add re m a in in g i n g re d i e n t s and m i x u n t i l homogeneous. F i l t e r a nd

f i 1 co n c e n t r a te . Cha rge p ro p e l 1a n t .

Formul a 6472 :94

High Performance Styling Spray

I n a r e d i e n t s :

Resyn 28-2930

AMP

Dow Corning 556 f l u i d

C r o t e i n AD Anh.

C i t r o f l e x 2

Frag rance

190 P r oo f Et h an o l, SDA-40

P a r t s by Wei ah t

6 .75

0.83

0.15

0.20

0.15

0.10

92.02

P r e p a r a t i on

:

a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y a dd Resyn 28-2930 t o t h e v o r t e x . C o n t in u e

m i x in g u n t i l s o l u t i o n i s com ple te . Add ba la nc e o f i n g r e d i e n t s .

When homogeneous, f i l t e r and f i l l .

SOURCE: N a t i o n a l S t a r c h and Chemical Co rp .: Suggested Formulas

D i s s o l v e AMP i n t h e 190 p r oo f SDA-40. Wh i le ma i n t a i n i ng good

Formula 6472:95

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 234/553

212 Cosmetic

and

Toiletry Formulations

Gel Curl Activator

Water

Acrylate/Steareth-20/Methacrylate

H y s t a r CG

G1 y c e r i ne 99%

P r o p yl e n e G l y c o l

D ime th ic one Copo lyo l 193

Germaben

I 1

T r i et ha no l ami ne

Fragrance

J o j o b a O i l

( A c r y s o l I C s - 1 )

Copolymer

5 7 . 7

2.0

1 0 . 3

23.9

2.0

2.3

1 . o

0.7

q . s .

0 . 1

Procedure :

Add i n g r e d i e n t s i n d es cen din g o r d e r i n a s t a i n l e s s s t e e l

t a nk , w i t h s lo w a g i t a t i o n and m ix t i l c l e a r . Pack i n a p l a s t i c

t u b e o r a p l a s t i c b o t t l e .

Alcohol Free Styl ing Gel

pH:

7.2

Water

P r o p yl e n e G l y c o l

A c r y l a t e / S t e a r e t h - 2 0 / M e t h a c r y l a t e Copolymer

Germaben I 1

Dim eth ic one Copo lyo l 193

Fragrance

T r i e th a n o la m in e

Jo jo b a O i l

( A c r y s o l I C s - 1 )

12.0

2.0

1

. o

0 . 5

0 . 5

0.7

0 . 1

83.2

Procedure :

a g i t a t i o n . N ext add i t e m

6 ,

a g i t a t e t i l c lear and package.

SOURCE:

Frank

B .

R o s s C o . ,

I n c . :

Sugges ted Fo rmu la t ions

To t h e w a te r add i n g r e d i e n t s

2

t h r u

5

p l u s 7 w i t h v ar y s l ow

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 235/553

Hair Care Products 213

Guanidine

No

Base Relaxer

A c r e a m / a c t i v a t o r s ys tem f o r a no ba se r e l a x e r .

I n g r e d i e n t s : w/w F u n c t i o n

I

c t i v a t o r S o l u t i o n :

1

R . I . T . A .

GC (Guan id ine Carbona te ) 3 0 . 0 0 A c t i v a t o r

2 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 70 00

3 . C o l o r , P r e s e r v a t i v e q I s . P r e s e r v a t i v e

Compounding Procedure:

11. No Base Cream:

1 R i t a c h o l 5 0 0 0 ( R . I . T . A . B le nd ) 1 2 . 0 0 Emu1 s i i e r

2 . R i t a d er m ( R . I . T . A . B l en d ) 4 . 0 0 E m o l l i e n t

3 .

P e t r o l a t u m 1 0 . 0 0 T e x t u r e

4 . M i n e r a l O i l 70 w t . 16.00 Spread

5 . Supersa t AWS 4 (PEG-20 Hydrogenated La no l i n ) 2 .00 Mo is tu re

6 . Ca l c i u m Hyd ro x i d e , D ry 7 .0 0 Re la xe r

7 .

P r o p yl e n e G l y c o l

5 . 0 0

Moi s t u r e

8 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water

4 4 . 0 0 --------

Compounding Procedure:

6 -8 and heat t o 70C. Combine b o t h phases, mi x w e l l and co o l

w i t h m i x i n g t o 45C. Add r e m a i ni n g i n g r e d i e n t s and c o o l w i t h

m i x i ng t o 40C. Package I a t 1 .7 5 f 1 . o ~ . ackage

I 1

a t 7 . 5 0

f l . 0 2 .

D i r e c t i o n s :

M i x I n

11,

s t i r w e l l w i t h wooden s t i c k u n t i l c o l o r i s

c o m p l e t e l y d i s p e r s e d . Use as p e r normal r e l a x e r i n s t r u c t i o n s .

Re f . No. 117-82

Combine ing re d i en ts a t 2OC

w i

t h a de qu at e m i x i ng .

Combine in g r ed ie n ts 1 -5 and hea t t o 70C. Combine in g r ed ie n t s

Potassium Relaxer

P o t a s s ium H yd ro xi de re 1axe r based on t h e emu ls i f i c a t i on power

o f R i ta c ho l 5000.

I n g r e d i e n t s : F u n ct i o n

1 . R i t a c h o l 5000 ( R . I . T . A . B l e n d ) 1 5 . 0 0 Emu 1 s i i r

2 . M i n e r a l O i l 70 w t .

1 7 . 0 0

E m o l l i e n t

3 . R i t a c h o l ( M i n e r a l

O i l

and L a n o l i n A l c o h o l )

2 . 0 0

Spread

4 . Pe t r o la t um 17 .50 Spread

5 . R i t a hy d r o x ( H y d r o x y l a t e d L a n o l i n ) 0 . 5 0 St ab i 1i y

6 .

Prop y lp a ra b en 0 .1 3 P r e se rv a t i ve

7 . R i t a SA ( S t e a r y l A l c o h o l ) 2 . 0 0 E m u l s i f i e r

8 . G l y c e r i n e

@

99% 6. 00 Humectant

I O .Meth y l paraben

0 . 2 0

P r e s e r v a t i v e

11 .Po tass ium Hydrox ide

13

25% 10.0 0 Re lax er

Compoundi ng Pr oce dur e:

Combine i t e m s 1 -7 i n se p a ra te co n ta i n e r a nd h e a t t o 80C.

Combine i t ems 8 -10 and hea t t o 80C and add t o i tem s 1 -7 . M i x

i n v a r i a b l e speed m i x e r f o r 1 m in u t e. Add wa te r t o c o o l i n g pan

an d m ix u n t i l 65C. S lo w l y ad d KOH. Add i c e t o c o o l i n g p an and

co o l t o 25C.

9 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d W ater 2 9. 67

-____- -__

R e f .

No.

118-176

SOURCE: R . I . T . A . Co r p . : Sug ge sted F o rm u la t i o n s

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 236/553

214

Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations

Hair Brushing Lotion

A . Amihope LL

TL-10 (PEG-20 S o r b i t a n Mo nol aur ate )

1 , 3 -B u t a ne d i ol ( B u t y l e n e G l y c o l )

S t e a r y l A l c o h o l

Carbopol 941 (Carbomer 941)*

0 . 5

0 . 5

0 . 5

0 . 3

1 0 .0

B .

Water 68.2

C . Ethano l 20 .0

* 0 . 5 w t Carbomer 941 aqueous s o l u t i o n ( n e u t r a l i z e d by NaOH)

Procedure :

1 . Each c he mi ca l c i t e d i n ( A ) i s weighed i n a g l a s s v e s s e l .

Heat i t t o 60-70C and s t i r u n t i l t h e s o l u t i o n i s homogeneous.

2 . Add a p r e v i o u s l y warmed wate r (9) [60-70C] t o t h e fo rm er

p r e pa r e d s o l u t i o n and c o o l i t t o room t e m pe r a t ur e w i t h

s t i r r i n g .

3 . Add a 20 .09 e t ha no l (C ) t o t h e co o le d s o l u t i o n w i t h s t i r r i n g .

Note :

T h i s h a i r b r u sh i n g l o t i o n has a good a n t i s t a t i c e f f e c t and

g i v e s g ood co m b a b i l i t y . Amihope LL d ec re ased th e f r i c t i o n b etwee n

h a i r and comb o r b ru sh re m a r ka b l y .

Usage: S pr ay t h e h a i r b e f o r e b r u s h i n g .

Hair Brushing Lotion

Amihope LL

POE ( 2 0 ) S o r b i t a n M o no l a ur a t e ( P o l y s o r b a t e 2 0 )

E thano l

Procedure :

M ix a l l components a t room temp era t u re .

Wt

0 . 5

0 . 5

9 9 . 0

No te :

e f f e c t and smoothness f o r t h e h a i r .

c a t i o n i c s u r f a c t a n t .

Usage: Spray t h e h a i r b e fo re b ru sh i n g .

SOURCE: A j i n o m o to USA, I n c . : Sugges ted Fo rmu la t ions

T h i s h a i r b r us h in g l o t i o n a l c o h o l i c t y p e has good a n t i s t a t i c

Amihope LL a c t s as h a i r c o n d i t i o n i n g a ge nt i n s t e a d o f t h e

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 237/553

Hair Care Products 215

Hair Condit ioner

T h i s f o r m u la i n c o r p o r a t e s a m i x tu r e of p r o t e i n and e x t r a c t s

the have

a good a f f i n i t y f o r h a i r , e s p e c i a l l y when bl ea ch ed and

damaged, l e a v i n g your h a i r smooth , s i l k y and more manageable.

Water Phase I:

Water ( D i s t i l l e d )

Bu ty l e n e G l y co l (Hoe chs t )

G1 y c e r i ne (U ni chema)

C e l l o s i z e ( H e r c u l e s )

M e th y l p a ra b e n (Su t to n )

S o r b i t o l 7 0 %

Carbopol 940 2%

Tr i s hyd roxy methy1 )aminomethane

O i l Phase:

Cera B e l l i n a (Pg-3 Beeswax, Kos ter Keunen)

L i q u a p a r ( S u t t o n )

G l yce ro l M o n o s te a ra te (He n ke l )

Deo. Orange Wax ( K o s t e r Keunen)

V i t a m i n

E

(BASF)

V i t a m i n

A

Palmi ta te (BASF)

P ro p y lp a ra b e n (Su t to n )

S te a r i c Ac i d (Un ichem )

Wheat Germ

O i

1 (L i p o )

Sweet Almond O i l ( L i p o )

P r op y le n e G l y c o l D i o c t a n a t e ( I n o l e x )

Water Phase 11:

Water

( D i

s t i 1 e d )

T r ie thano lamine (Dow)

Ac t i ve Phase :

G in se ng E x t r a c t ( A c t i v e O r g a ni c s )

A r n i c a E x t r a c t ( A c t i v e O rg an ic s)

Wheat P r o t e i n (Vege-Tech)

F rag rance

61.20%

3.00%

2 .00%

0.30%

0.30%

2.00%

6.00%

0.60%

5 . 0 0

0.40%

2.00%

1 .OO

0.10%

0.10%

0.20%

2.00%

1.20%

1.20%

2.50%

5,00%

1.OO

1

, O O

1.00%

0

70%

0.20%

Procedure :

D i sp e rs e t h e c e l l o s i z e i n t h e w a t er and when d i s p e r s e d and

added th e r e s t o f p ha se . Hea t t h e wa te r p ha se I t o 8OC a n d t h e

o i l phase t o 82C. S l o w l y add t h e o i l phase t o w a te r phase I

u nd er m od er at e a g i t a t i o n . Cool t o 70C and add wa ter phase 11.

Co n t in u e m i x i n g and added th e a c t i v e ph ase a t 35C. Coo l t o

room tempera tu re .

A d a p t a t i o n o f f o r m u l a and i t s i n f l u e n c e on t h e p r o d u ct :

i n t r od u ce d i n t o t h i s t y p e o f f or mu la .

SOURCE:

Koste r Keunen I n c . : Suggested Fo r mu la t ion

O t he r a c t i v e compounds and c o n d i t i o n i n g a g en t s a r e e a s i l y

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 238/553

216

Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations

Hair Conditioner with Moisturizers & Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed

Animal Protein

Macko l 1618 (C e te a r y l A l co ho l )

Ma ck er ni um SDC-85 ( S t e a r a l ko ni urn C h l o r i d e )

Wei Qht

,

3 . 0

3 . 0

Pr op yl ene G1 y c o l 1

. o

G l y c e r i n 1

. o

Mackamide AME-100 (Acet am ide MEA) 1

. o

M i n e r a l O i l 1 . o

Mackpro NLP (Quatern ium-79 Hy dro lyz ed Animal P r o t e i n )

( N at u ra l L i p i d P r o t e i n ) 2 .0

Macks ta t DM (DMDM Hyd a n to i n ) qs

De ion ize d Water, Frag ranc e, Dye

q s

t o 1 00 .0

pH: 3 .5 -4 .5

V i s c o s i t y (cps 25 degrees C) : 1500-3000

Procedure :

1 . M e l t waxes a nd o i l s t o 7 0 degrees

C .

2 . Se par a te l y hea t wa ter p l u s Mackp ro NLP t o

70

degrees C . and

add h o t w at er s o l u t i o n t o h o t o i l s and waxes.

3 .

S t a r t s t i r r i n g v i g o r o u s l y f o r 10 m in ut es and t h en s t a r t s low

c o o l i n g w h i l e m i x i n g and a t 40 degrees C . add Mackstat

DM

the n f rag ran ce and dye and s low m ix in g down c l os e t o room

te m p e ra tu re .

4 . S to p mi x i ng a t 30 degrees C,

5 .

A d ju s t pH w i t h c i t r i c ac i d .

High Quality Condit ioner

Mackern ium SDC-25 (S tea ra l ko niu m C hl o r id e)

Macko l 1618 (Ce t ea r y l A l coh o l )

B r i j 72

Macks ta t

DM

(DMDM Hydan to in )

Water, Dye, Fragrance

q s

t o

Procedure :

1 . Add components t o water and heat t o 70 degrees C .

2 . W i th m i l d a g i t a t i o n b l e n d u n t i l homogeneous.

3

Coo l t o 50 deg rees C . and add dye and f ragrance.

4 .

Cool and f i l l .

SOURCE: Mc I n t y r e Group L t d . : Per sona l Care Fo rm ula ry

Wei q h t ,

1 0 . 0

2 .0

2 .0

qs

100.0

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 239/553

Hair

Care Products 217

Hair Condit ioning Gel

Ingred ien ts /Trade Name:

P a r t A :

Deion ized Water

H y d r o x y e t h y l c e l l u l o s e

Hydroxypropyl Guar

Hyd ro xyp ro p y l t r im o n iu m Ch lo r i d e

C i t r i c A c i d

Methy lpa raben

by

Weipht

89.94

0.80

0 . 40

0 . 0 6

0 .02

P a r t 8 :

Pantheno l 0 .30

Sodi um P C A / A j i ew N - 5 0 3 . 0 0

P a r t i a l l y D e ac e ty l at e d C h i t i n (1% S o lu t io n )/ M ar i ne - De w 3 .00

D i azo1 d i n y l U re a 0 . 30

Procedure :

Ad d p a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r . Heat t o 75 de gr ee s Ce nt -

i g r a d e . M i x u n t i l c l e a r and u n i f o r m . C ool t o 50 d eg re es C en t-

i g ra d e . Ad d p a r t

B

i n g r e d i e n t s i n t h e g i v en o r de r , m i x in g

w e l l a f t e r each a d d i t i o n . C on ti nu e m i x i n g and c o o l i n g t o

35 deg rees Cen t ig r ade .

Po lyqua te rn ium-11

2 .0 0

Appearance: C le ar ge l

V i s c o s i t y : 7 ,000-10,000 (RVT #5 I3 lOrpm I3 25 degrees C)

pH: 4.5-5.5

Hair Conditioner with CAE

I n q r e d i e n t s :

Phase A :

Cetano l

Amiter LGS-2

N i

kkol

MYS-55

Phase B :

CAE

A-SM

Prodew 100

G l y c e r i n

Me thy lpa raben

Water

Wt

3 . 0

2 .0

1 . o

1

. o

3 . 0

2 . 0

1 0 .0

0 . 2

77.8

S p e c i f i c a t i o n s : p H : 5 . 0 Vis : 2500 cps

Procedure :

M i x i n g r e d ie n t s Phase A and heat t o 75-80 degrees C. M ix

in g re d ie n t s Ph a se

B

and h e at t o 75-80 degrees C . Add Phase A

t o Phase 8 and mix w i t h homomixer (1500 t o 2500 RPM) . Cool t o

35 degrees C .

T h i s h a i r c o n d i t i o n e r h as good a n t i s t a t i c a nd c o n d i t i o n i n g

e f f e c t s

For mul a No. 1 CR-56-11

SOURCE: Ajinomoto

USA,

I n c . : Suggested Fo rmu la t ions

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 240/553

218

Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations

Hair Condit ioning Lotion

I n g r e d i e n t s :

A B r i j 721s

C e t y l a l c o h o l

S te ar y l a1 coho1

St ea ra l konium

o ow w

1 . 3 0

0 . 9 0

0 .6 0

0 . 5 0

B Wa te r, d e i o n i ze d 9 6 .7 0

Procedure :

Heat ( A ) t o 60C and ( B ) t o 62C. Add ( 6 ) t o (A ) w i t h modera te

a g i t a t i o n . Cool w h i l e a g i t a t i n g t o 40C. Add wa t e r t o compensate

f o r loss due t o e v a p o r a t i o n .

Clear Hair Condit ioner Lotion

I n q r e d i e n t s :

A

Hydroxye thy l ce l l u lose , Na t roso l 250HR

B F o r e s t a l l

Wa te r , d e i o n i ze d

w

40.00

1 .4 0

58.60

Procedure :

w ate r t o y i e l d a

3%

s o l u t i o n . P re pa re s o l u t i o n ( B ) . Add (B ) t o

( A) w i t h s t i r r i n g u n t i l homogeneous.

M ix ( A ) i n advance by d i s p e r s i n g hy d r o xy e t hy l c e l l u l o s e i n

Hair Condit ioning Gel

I n a r e d i e n t s :

A M in er a l o i l

A r 1 as ol ve 200

B r i j 9 3

B Wate r, de i on i zed

P r o p y l e n e g l y c o l

Sorbo

F o r e s t a l 1

11 . o o

20.00

6 . 0 0

49.60

5 .00

7 .0 0

1 .40

Procedure :

Cool t o 60C and add make-up w at er .

S t i r

u n t i l u n i f o r m and p ou r

w h i l e s t i l l f l u i d .

SOURCE: IC1 Su r fa c ta n t s : Su g g e s te d Formulations

Heat (A) and

( B )

t o 9OC. Add (B) t o ( A ) w i t h g e n t le s t i r r i n g .

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 241/553

Hair

Care

Products 219

Hair Cream

( 0 )

L i q u i d P a r a f f i n ( #70)

I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e

Squal ane

N i

k k o l WCB

Po ly oxye thy l ene (6300) Monos teara te

G l y c e r y l M on os te ar at e ( S e l f E m u l s i f y i n g Type)

P o l y o x y e t h y l e ne ( 2 0) C e t y l E t h e r

(W) Aj idew N - 5 0

Water

P r e s e r v a t i v e

Procedure :

1 . Heat 0 ) and (W) t o 80C.

2 . Add (W)

t o

(0)

s l ow l y w i t h a g i t a t i o n .

3 .

F i n i s h s t i r r i n g a t 40C.

pH: 7.3

V i s c o s i t y : 900 c ps

Hair Tonic

0 ) Pyro te r GPI -25

Py ro te r CPI -40

E t h y l A l c o h o l

(95%)

L-Menthol

Camphor

Methy lpa raben

Perfume

(W) A j id ew T-50

Water

Wt

3 8 . 0

3 . 0

0 . 5

0 . 5

0 . 1

4 . 1

2 . 9

3 . 0

4 7 . 9

q . s .

t

2.7

0 . 3

5 0 0

0.4

0 . 0 5

0 . 0 5

q . s .

4 . 0

4 2 .5

Procedure :

1 . D i s s o l v e ( 0 ) a nd (W) se p a ra te l y a t room te m p e ra tu r e t o b e

2 . Add (W) t o 0)w i t h s t i r r i n g .

c l e a r s o l u t i ons .

pH: 7 .5

V i s c o s i t y : 5 c ps

SOURCE:

A j i n o m o t o

U S A ,

I n c . : Sug ge sted F o rm u la t i o n s

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 242/553

22 Cosmetic

and

Toiletry

Formulations

Hair Dressing

W/O Cold Process

I q r e d ien s

Phase

A :

Ce ty l D ime th ic one Copo lyo l ( A b i l EM-90)

M i n e r a l O i l

C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e s ( T e g os o ft CT)

C e ty l Dimeth ico ne ( A b i l Wax 9801)

Cyc lo m e th i co n e (Ab i l 0 8839)

Po l y g l y c e r y l - 4 I s o s t e a r a t e ( I s o l an G I 34)

Ce te a ry l I son o no a no a te (T e g o so f t C I )

Ce ty l Octanoate (T ego so f t CO)

F ra g ra n ce

Phase B:

Water

Pr op yl en e G1 yc ol

Quatern ium-80 (Abi 1 Quat 3270)

G1 y c e r i n

Sod ium Ch lo r ide

P r e s e r v a t i v e s

2 . 0

7 . 3

3 . 0

1 . o

5 . 0

1 . o

1 . 5

0 . 8

Q.S.

7 2 .9

3 . 0

0 . 5

1 . 2

0 . 8

Q.S.

Procedure :

1 . M i x t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase A t o g e t h e r .

2 . D i s s o l v e t h e Sodium C h l o r i d e i n t o t h e w a t e r. Add t h e G l y c e r i n

and P ro py le ne G l y c o l . M ix u n t i l c l e a r .

3 .

Add t h e p r e s e r va t i ve s and Q ua te rn iu m-80 t o t h e wa te r p ha se .

M ix u n t i l f u l l y d i s pe r se d.

4. Add Phase B t o Phase A s l o w l y w i t h s o f t p r o p e l l e r m i x in g .

Ma in ta in , a t a l l t im es , a c reamy appearance . 5 . Homogen ize.

Hair Styl ing Gel

I n q r e d i e n t s : ?&&

(Ab i 1 OSW-12) 22 .2 0

Cycl ometh icone (and D i meth i cono l (and ) D i meth i cone

Pheny l T r i me th icon e ( A b i l AV-20)

3.00

Cycl ometh i cone (A bi B 8839) 3.00

Pro p y le n e

G 1

ycol 42.00

He xy l ene G1 y c o l 4.55

Water

22 . o o

G1 y c e r i n

1

. o o

P r e s e r v a t i es

Q. S .

P o l y a c r y l a m i d e ( an d ) C13-14 I s o p a r a f f i n ( an d)

Lau r e th-7 2.25

Procedure :

When a l l i n g r e d i e n t s a r e combined, c o n t i n u e m i x i n g u n t i l

v i s c o s i t y i nc re as es . F i n a l pr od uc t i s a t r a n s l u c e n t , c o l o r l e s s

g e l .

SOURCE: Goldschmidt Chemical Corp.

:

S ugges t ed Fo r m u la t i ons

Add t h e i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d er , m i x i n g w e l l between a d d i t i o n s .

Formula BAM-5-43

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 243/553

Hair

Care

Products 221

Hai r l oss t o Cont r ol Gel Concent r at e

I nqr edi ent s :

Met hacr y l oyl Et hyl Eet a i ne/ Met hacr y l at es Copol ymer

Wat er

Di met hi cone Abi 350

Phenyl Tr i met hi cone Abi l AV- 20)

Cycl omet hi cone and) Di met hi conol and) Di met hi cone

Abi

1

OSW 12)

Pr opyl ene G1 ycol *

Hexyl ene Gl ycol

Pr eser vat i ves

Fr agr ance

Pol yacr y l am de and)

C13- 14

I soper af f i n and) Laur et h- 7

w/w

1. 50

20. 00

4. 00

4. 00

25.00

35. 00

7 . 5 0

Q S

Q S

3. 00

Pr ocedur e:

When al l i ngr edi ent s ar e combi ned, cont i nue m xi ng unt i l c l ear .

Vi scos i t y w 1 1 devel op af t er m xi ng.

*Et hanol can be subst i t ut ed f or par t o f t he pr opy l ene gl ycol

i f a l i ght er pr oduc t i s needed.

Bl end t he i ngr edi ent s t oget her

i n

t he or der gi ven wi t h m xi ng.

I r i descent Hai r Gel Concent r at e

I nnr edi ent s :

Cycl omet hi cone and)

Abi 1 OSW 12)

Phenyl Tr i met hi cone

Pr opyl ene Gl ycol

Hexyl ene G1 ycol

Wat er

Pr eser vat i ves

Pol yacr y l am de and)

Pr ocedur e:

D met hi conol and) Di me

Abi l AV- 20)

C13- 14 I sopar af f i n and

hi cone

27. 27

4. 55

40. 93

4. 55

20. 45

Laur et h- 7 2 . 25

Q S

Add t he

i

ngr edi ent s

i

n or der , m xi ng we1 1 bet ween addi t i ons.

When al l i ngr edi ent s a re combi ned, cont i nue m xi ng unt i l c l ear

and i r i des c ent .

For mul at on EAM- 3- 5

SOURCE:

Gol dschm dt Chem cal Corp . : Suggest ed For mul at i ons

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 244/553

222 Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations

Hair Pomade

High l u s t e r h a i r pomade based on n a t u ra l S imch in and Shebu.

P a t i o n i c SSL and R it a p an DL p r o v i d e m o i s t u r i z a t i o n f o r h e a l t h y

1o o k i ng h a i

.

I n g r e d i e n t s :

w

1 M i n e r a l

O i

1 -

90

w t .

5.00

2 . S im ch in R e f i n e d ( J o j o b a O i l ) 2 .0 0

3. P e t r o l a t u m

85.70

4. Shebu (Shea B u t t e r )

2 .00

5. L a n o l i n USP ( L a n o l i n ) 2 . 0 0

6. Ri ta pa n DL (Pan the nol DL) 0.50

7. Pa t i o n i c SSL (Sod iu m S te a ro y l L a c t y l a t e ) 2 .40

8 .

Frag rance

0.20

9 .

G lyd a n t 0 .2 0

F u n c t i o n

L u s t e r

Emol 1

i

n t

Ho ld

L u s t e r

Ho ld

H e a l t h

M o i s t u r e

Odor

P r e s e r v a t i v e

Compounding Procedure:

B le n d i t e m s 1-7 a t

7 0 C .

S t i r u n t i l un i f o rm . Cool t o 40C and

add remai n i ng i erns. F i 11 i t o c o n t a i n e r s .

Re f .

N o .

118-173

Hair Pomade

Q u a l i t y h a i r pomade fo rm u l a te d w i t h S im ch in and Shebu f o r

l u s t e r . P a t i o n i c I SL p r o v i d e s m o i s t u r i z a t i o n .

I n a r e d i e n t s :

1 . R it aw ax ( L a n o l i n A l c o h o l )

2 . M i n e r a l O i l

3. S im ch in R e fi ne d ( J o j o b a O i l )

4 . Shebu (Shea B u t t e r )

5 . Pe t r o l atum

6 .

R i t a l a n ( L a n o l i n O i l )

7.

P a t i o n i c I S L (Sodium I s o s t e a r o y l

8 .

G lyd a n t

9 .

Frag rance

-

Jergens Type R-30318

1.50

5 .0 0

2.00

1

. o o

84.60

3.00

L a c t y l a t e ) 2 .5 0

0.20

0.20

Functi n

Fee 1

Spread

L u s t e r

L u s t e r

Spread

L u s t e r

M o i s t u r e

P r e s e r v a t i v e

Odor

Compounding Procedure:

B le n d i t e m s 1-7 and h ea t u n t i l c l e a r . C ool w i t h m i x i n g u n t i l

50C. Add p er fu me and p r e s e r v a t i v e . F i l l h o t w h i l e m ix i n g .

Re f .

N o . 118-178

SOURCE: R.I.T.A. Corp . : Suggested Fo r mu la t ion s

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 245/553

Hair Care Products 223

Hai r Relaxer - Glycer ine

G l y c e r i n e based h a i r r e l a x e r w h ic h m o i s t u r i z e s h a i r . E mu ls io n

s t a b i l i t y based on R i ta c h o l 2000.

I n g r e d i e n t s :

1 . R i t a c h o l 2000 ( R . I . T . A . B l en d )

2 . M i n e r a l O i l 70 W t .

3 . R i t a c h o l ( M i n e r al O i l and L a n o l i n A l c o h o l )

4 .

P e t r o l a t u m

5 . R i t a h y d r o x ( H y d r o xy l a te d L a n o l i n )

6 . Propy lpa raben

7 . R i t a SA ( S t e a r y l A l c o h o l )

8 . G l v c e r i n e

9 , D i s t i 11ed/Dei o n i zed Water

10 .Me thy lpa raben

11.Sod ium Hydrox ide (25% S o l u t i o n )

w/w

5 . 0 0

7 .00

2 .0 0

7.50

0 . 5 0

0 . 1 3

2 .00

6 .0 0

29.67

0 . 2 0

10 . 00

Func t

i

n

Emul s i i r

Spread

Fee l

V i s c o s i t y

S ta b i 1i y

P r e s e r v a t i v e

Emul s i

f i

r

M o i s t u r e

P r e s e r v a t i v e

Re1 a x i ng

-------

Compounding Procedure:

I n s e p a r a t e be ak er h e a t i t e m s 8-10 t o 85C. Add t h i s w a te r

m i x t u r e t o o i l m i x t u r e and m ix a t l ow speed f o r 1 m i n ut e . Add

c o ld wa ter t o co o l i n g p an an d co o l t o 65C. Add Sodium Hyd ro x i d e

s o l u t i o n and m i x . Then a dd i c e t o c o o l i n g pan and c o o l t o 25C.

N ot e: I n v e r s i o n w i l l o cc ur d u r i n g m i x i n g .

Combine i t e m s 1 -7 i n K i t c h e n A id m i x e r b o wl a nd h e a t t o 80C.

R e f .

No.

118-168

Hai r Relaxer - Glycol

In q r ed i e n t s :

1 .

R i t a c h o l 2000 ( R . I . T . A . B l en d )

2 .

M i n e r a l O i l NF

3 . R i t a c h o l ( M i n e r a l

O i l

and L a n o l i n A l c o h o l )

4 .

P e t r o l a t u m

5 .

R i t a h y d r o x ( H y d r o x y l a t e d L a n o l i n )

6 . P ropy lpa raben

7 . R i t a SA ( S t e a r y l A l c o ho l )

8 . Pro p y le n e G l yco l

9 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water

10 .Me thy lpa raben

1 l . S o d i u m H y d r ox i d e (25% S o l u t i o n )

w/w

15.00

17.00

2 .00

17.50

0 . 5 0

0 .13

2 .00

6 .00

2 9 .6 7

0 . 2 0

10.00

F u n c t i o n

E m u l s i f i e r

Emol l i n t

Spread

Spread

S t a b i

1

i y

P r e s e r v a t i v e

Emul s i i e r

Humectant

P r e s e r v a t

i

e

A c t i e

- - - - - - - -

Compounding Procedure:

Weigh and m e l t i t ems 1 -7 a t 80C i n K i t c h e n A i d m i xe r b o w l .

I n se p a ra te b e ake r h e a t i t e m s 8-10 t o 85C. Add wa te r ph ase t o

o i l phase and m i x f o r one m i n ut e . A dd c o o l i n g w a te r t o m i x e r

c o o l i n g pan and co o l t o 65C. Add Sod ium Hydrox i de , th en add

i c e t o c o o l i n g pan, and t h e n c o o l t o 25C w i t h c o n s t an t a g i t a t i o n .

N ot e i n v e r s i o n d u r i n g c o o l i n g p r oc e ss .

R e f. No. 118-169

SOURCE: R . I . T . A . C or p. : Suggested Fo rm ul at io ns

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 246/553

224 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Hair Sculpting Cream

T h i s cream g i v es s h i ne t o t h e h a i r w i t h o u t b e i ng gr ea sy

and makes h a i r easy t o s t y l e and manage. The Geah lene g i ve s

v i s c o s i t y t o t h e c ream and h e lp s h o l d h a i r i n p l ac e . I n c l u s i o n

o f w heat p r o t e i n adds body and c o n d i t i o n i n g e f f e c t s .

In nr ed ie nt /T ra de Name: Weiqht%

A Deio n ize d Water 62 .86

So l ub l e Wheat P r o t e i n / T r i t i o l 1 . o o

Sod ium C h l or id e 0 .80

Pantheno l /DL-Pantheno l 0 .10

D i

azo1 i i n y l U rea /Ge rma ll

I 1

0.30

P V P / P V P

K-30

1 . o o

B Phenoxyethanol/Emeressence 1160 0.70

Methy lpa raben 0 .20

Pr op yl ene G1 y c o l 5 . 0 0

C P o l y g l y c e r o l - 4 I s o s t e a r a t e ( an d) C e t y l D im et hi co ne

Cop olyo l (and ) Hexyl La ur at e/ Ab i l WE-09 5 .0 0

M i n e r a l

O i l

(and ) Hyd rogenated Bu ty lene / E thy lene /

Sty rene Copolymer (and) Hydrogenated Eth y len e/

Pr opy len e/S tyr ene Copolymer//Geahlene 750

20.00

Phenyl

T r i

me thi cone/Dow Co rn i ng 556 3. 00

Fragrance 0 .04

M ix p a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s u n t i l u n i fo r m . Heat p a r t B t o 60C w i t h

Procedure :

g e n t l e s t i r r i n g u n t i l c l e a r . Add p a r t

B

t o p a r t A w i t h m i x in g .

I n a s e pa r at e c o n t a i n e r , p re mi x p a r t C . S l o w l y add p a r t s A and

B

t o p a r t

C

i n s ma ll i nc re me nt s w i t h h i g h shear m i x i ng u n t i l

u n i f o r m .

SOURCE:

Penreco : Sugges ted Fo rmu la t ion

Hair Condit ioner

P a r t A :

Dei o n i zed Water

90.60

Busan 1504 0. 10

Pantheno l

0 . 25

Al oe Vera 200X 0. 05

D i so d i urn EDTA

0 .05

C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l

&

C e t e a r a t h - 2 0 1 - 1 0

S t e a r y l A l c o h o l

&

Cetr imon ium Bromide

5 .0 0

Jo jo b a O i l 0.30

Pa r t B :

Acetamide MEA & Lactamide

MEA

1 . o o

Hydro1yzed Wheat P r o t e i n & Wheat 01i osa cc har i des 1 .25

Sodium PCA 0.30

Procedure :

and m ix u n t i l d i s s o l v e d . M a i n t a i n t e mp e ra t ur e a t 7 and add

r e m a i n i n g P a r t

A

i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r shown, e n s u r i n g t h a t

each i s c o m p le t el y b le nd ed i n t o b a t ch b e f o r e t h e a d d i t i o n

o f

t h e n e x t i n g r e d i e n t . M i x w h i l e c o o l i n g t o 40C. Add P a r t B

i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d er shown and m i x u n t i l each i s d i s so lv e d .

Cool w h i l e m i x i n g t o

35C.

SOURCE: Buckman L a b or a t or i e s, I n c .

:

Sugges ted Fo rmu la t ion

Heat D I wa te r t o 75C. Add Busan 1 504 p re se rv a t i v e t o wa te r

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 247/553

Hair

Care Products

225

Hair Straightener

Formula :

Phase

A :

Dei o n i zed Water

Pr op yl ene G1 y c o l

Phase B :

Pol awax

P e t r o l a t u m ( P r o t o p e t 1s)

Hydrogena ted Po ly i sobu tene

Phase

C :

Sodium Hydroxide (25% S o l )

Phase D :

Pro p y le n e G l y co l ( a nd )

D i

azo1 i i n y l U rea (a nd )

Methy lparaben (and) Propy lparaben

56.00

2 . 0 0

15.00

8 . 0 0

10.00

8 . 0 0

1

. o o

Procedure :

Combine and heat water phase

A

and o i l phase

B

s e p a r a t e l y

t o 75C.

A d d

t h e o i l phase t o t h e wa te r phase w i t h r a p i d m ix i n g .

Cool t o

4 0 C

b e f o r e a d d i n g C and D . Cool t o room temp. and

package.

Conditioning Styl ing Gel

P a r t

A :

Water, D . I .

Merquat 100

P a r t

B :

61 and ol

B r i

j

A r l a t o n e G

P r op y le ne g l y c o l

G l y c e r i n e

P a r t

C:

Fragrance

P r e s e r v a t i v e and c o l o r

Procedure :

M i x P a r t A

Then, add Pa r

m i x tu r e i s un

P a r t C a t 53C

SOURCE: Wi t c o

Formu

Percent

q . s . t o 100

2.00

10.00

21 . o o

10 .00

8.00

7 .0 0

9 . s .

q . s .

and B i n s ep a ra te v es s el s , h e a t i n g each t o 9OC.

B

t o P a r t

A

w i t h mo de ra te a g i t a t i o n . When t h e

f or m b eg i n t o c o o l , c o n t i n u i n g a g i t a t i o n . Add

and co n t i n u e co o l i n g . Pou r a t 50C.

Co rp . : Pe t ro l a tu m S p e c i a l t i e s G ro up: Sug ge sted

a t

i

ns

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 248/553

226 Cosmetic

and Toiletry Formulations

High Petrolatum Mousse

Aerosol

O i l Phase:

P r o t o p e t 1 s P e t r ol a t u m

Crodamol PMP

Volpo 3

Water Phase A :

Dei o n i zed Water

Carbopol 941

10% Sodium H ydrox ide S o l u t i o n

Water Phase 8 :

G1 y c e r i ne

Vo lpo

s-10

Germaben I 1

15.00

5 .0 0

1.20

69.30

0.13

0 .5 2

5 .0 0

2.85

1 .0 0

Procedure :

Water Phase

A :

C harge a v e s s el w i t h w a t e r and d u s t i n t h e ca rb om er . S t a r t

he at in g- to 80C. When co mpl e te ly d i spe rs ed, add t h e sod ium

h y d r ox i d e s o l u t i o n and c o n t i n u e m i x i n g .

Water Phase 0 :

When u n i f o r m add t o Water Phase A .

O i l Phase:

Combine a l l components o f t h e o i l ph ase, m i x and h e a t t o

When un i f o r m add t h e combined wa te r phases s lo w l y w h i l e m ix

Co n t i n u e m i x i n g t o room te m p e ra tu re .

F i l l R a t i o :

Combine components i n a sep ara te vesse l and mix , hea t t o

Conc ent r a te 4 .0%, P r op e l l an t A-46 96%.

Hot Oil Hair Treatment Mousse

80C.

80C.

ng.

Pe rce n t

Water 57.80

D i sod i um E D T A 0 . 2 0

C a r n a t i o n M i n e r a l O i 1 10.00

Avocado O i l 5 . 0 0

D im e th i co n e 2 .0 0

Ce te a r y l A lc oho l (and) Ce tea re th - 20 (Promu lgen D) 5.00

Jo jo b a O i l

1

. o o

Mink

O i l

1 .0 0

Ca s to r O i l 5 .0 0

O c ty l d o d e c y l S te a ro y l S te a ra te (Ce ra p h y l 8 47 ) 1 0 .0 0

Quatern ium 26 (Ce raph y l 65) 2 .00

Germaben I 1 1

. o o

Procedure :

80C. Cool t o 50C and add t h e Germaben

1 1 .

Cool t o room temp-

e r a t u r e a n d f i l l . 95% concen t ra t e /5% Pr op e l la n t A -46.

Appl i a t i on:

f o r 1 5-20 m i n ut e s . R i n s e w e l l .

SOURCE: Wi tc o Corp. : Pe tro leu m S p e c i a l t i e s Group: Suggested

Combine a l l i n g r ed ie n t s excep t t h e Germaben

I 1

and he a t t o

A pp ly s m a l l amount t o w et h a i r . C over h a i r w i t h h o t t o w e l

F o r m u l a t i o n s

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 249/553

Hair Care Products

227

Hot Oi l Condi t ioner

I n a r e d i e n t s :

Cyc lometh i cone (and) Dim eth i cono l (and)

D i

meth icone

( A b i l OSW 12) 25 .0

Dimeth icone

(100

c s t )

Cyc l omethi cone

Ph e n y l T r im e th i co n e (Ab i l A V

2 0 )

Fragrance

Procedure :

Combine a l l i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r de r w i t h m i x i ng .

50 .0

2 2 .0

3 . 0

Q . S .

Hot Oil Super Conditioner

I n g r e d i e n t s :

Cyc lometh icone (and) Dim eth i cono l (and) Dimeth icone

( A b i l OSW 12) 2 5 . 0

Dimeth icone (100 c s t ) 42.0

Cyc lometh icone 30 .0

P he ny l T r i m e t h i c o n e ( A b i l

A V

20) 2 .5

Quatern ium-80 ( A b i l Quat 3474) 0 .5

Fragrance Q.S.

Procedure :

Combine a l l i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r w i t h m i x in g .

Soft Glossing Spritz

I na r ed i n t s :

Pheny l T r ime th icone ( A b i l AV-20)

Cyc lo m e th i co n e (Ab i l B 8839)

D im e th i co n e (Ab i l 1000)

Dim e th i co n e (Ab i l

100 )

Cyclometh icone (and) Dimeth icone (and) Dimeth icone

( A b i

1

OSW-12)

Benzophenone-3

Fragrance

Procedure :

Combine

Caut

i

n

SOURCE: Go

w

10.0

22.7

2 .5

1 4 .5

5 0 . 0

0 . 3

Q . S .

a l l i n g re d i e n ts i n o rd er

-

m i x in g w e l l

T ra ce s o f w a t e r

w i l l

cause t u r b i d i t y .

dschmi d t Chemical Corp : Suggested Formul a t i

ns

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 250/553

228 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Intensive Conditioning Pomade

H ig h o i l , m o i s t u r i z i n g pomade f o r c o n t r o l o f d r y , o ver wor ke d

h a i r .

I n q r e d i e n t s :

1 . Pa ra f f i n (5 9 -6 O C)

2 .

P e t r o l a t u m

F u n c t i o n

10 .70 Con t ro l

48 .97 Moi s t u r e

3 .

M i n e r a l O i l

30.00 Moi s t u r e

4 . F o r l a n L ( R . I . T . A . B l en d ) 5 . 0 0

Shine

5 . R i t a c h o l ( R . I . T . A . B l en d ) 3. 00

Sh ine

6. P a t la c I L ( I s o s t e a r y l L a c t a t e )

2 . 0 0 Re p a i r

7. Fra gra nce #163-478

0.30 Odor

8 . P r e s e r v a t i v e

0 . 0 3 P r e s e r v a t i v e

Compounding Procedure:

Mix a l l i te ms exce pt per fume a t 65C. Coo l t o 40C and add

p er fum e and p r e s e r v a t i v e . L e t s e t up i n p r o pe r c o n t a i n e r .

R e f . No. 118-122

Light Oil Free Conditioner

B a s i c c o n d i t i o n e r t o p r o v i d e good combing and c o n d i t i o n i n g

t o a l l h a i r t y p e s .

I n g r e d i e n t s : F u n c t i o n

1 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water

2 .

Rita-STAC (S te a r t r im o n iu m Ch lo r i d e ) 1 .5 0 Co n d i t i o n e r

3 . R i t a p r o 165 ( R . I . T . A . B l e nd ) 2 . 0 0 S t a b i l i t y

4 . R i t a CA ( C e t y l A l c o h o l )

2 . 0 0

R e - f a t t i ng

5 . Ri tawax ALA (R . I .T .A . B lend ) 0 . 5 0 Sh in e

6 . F ra g ra n ce - Sa lon #169-122 0. 30 Odor

7. Kathon CG 0 . 0 3 P r e s e r v a t i v e

Compounding Procedure:

165F. Add t o wa te r a nd mi x u n t i l u n i f o r m . Coo l t o 1 20F and

add pe r fume and p re se rv a t i v e .

SOURCE: R. I .T .A . Co rp . : Sug ge sted F o rm u la t i o n s

93.67 __---------

Hea t wa te r t o 1 80F. I n se p a ra te b ea ker h e a t i t e m s 2-5 t o

R e f .

N o .

118-115

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 251/553

Hair Care

Products

229

Intensive Hair Condit ioner

An i n t e n s i v e c o n d i t i o n e r w i t h n o u r i s h i n g o i l t o make h a i r

more hea l thy .

I n a r e d i e n t s: f u n c t i o n

2 . Po lyqu ta

3000

(Po l yq u a te rn iu m -1 0) 0 .50 An t i - S ta t i c ,T h i ck e n e r

3 . M e th ylp a ra b e n 0 .15 P r e se rv a t i ve

4 .

R ita-STAC ( S t e a r t r i m o n i u m C h l o r i d e ) 1 .5 0 A n t i - S t a t i c ,

5 . Rita-CTAC (Ce t r im o n iu m Ch lo r i d e ) 2 .0 0 A n t i - S ta t i c ,

6.

Ri tacho l 2000 ( R . I . T . A . B l en d ) 8 .0 0 E m u l s i f i e r

7. Wheat Germ O i l 1 . O O No u r i sh i n g

O i

1 -He a l t h

8 .

Tocophero l

0 .20 --------

9. Propy lpa raben

0 . 1 0 P r e s e r v a t i e

10.Kathon

CG

0 . 03

P r e s e r v a t i v e

11. D i s t i 1 ed /D ei on i zed Water 2 .00 _ _ _ _ _ _ - _

12 .F rag rance q . s .Odor

Compounding Procedure:

paraben. Heat t o 60C. Add i t em s 4 and 5 and heat t o 70C. Heat

i t e m s 6-9 t o 70-75C and a dd w i t h m i x i n g . Wh i l e m i x i n g , co o l t o

45C and add items 10-12.

1 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d W ater 8 4. 52

----------

C o n d i t i o n e r

Condi t i ner

D i sp e rse Po l yq u ta

3000

i n wa te r . When d ispe rsed , add Me thy l -

Re f .

N o .

116-168

S a lo n S t r en g t h H a i r C o n d i t i o n e r

B al an ce d c o n d i t i o n i n g a nd r e p a i r a r e a c hi ev e d t hr o u g h

p r op er b a la n ce o f P o ly q ut a and e m o l l i e n t a d d i t i v e s .

I n a r e d i e n t s :

1 . R i t a CA ( C e t y l A l c o h o l )

2 . M i n e r a l O i l 9NF

3 . R i t a

SA

( S t e a r y l A l c o h o l )

4. R i t a l a n C ( R . I . T . A . Blend )

5 . R i ta-CTAC (Cet r im on ium C h l or id e)

6 . Po ly qu ta 3000 (Po lyqua tern ium-10 )

7 .

D i

st

i

1ed/Dei o ni zed Water

8 .

G l y c e r i n e

9 .

S o r b i t o l (70% S o l n . )

1Q .S up er sa t AWS-4 (PEG-20 Hyd ro ge na te d

L an ol i n )

1 l . K a t h o n

CG

12 .F rag rance

%w/wF u n c t i o n

2 .0 0 R e - f a t t i n g

2 .00 Sh ine

0 .5 0 R e - f a t t i n g

1

O O

Shine, Combing

2.00 Condi t i on i ng

0.50 Combing

2 .0 0 Moi s t u r e

0 . 5 0 M o i s t u r e

1.00 Shine

0 . 0 2 P r e s e r v a t i v e

0.25 Odor

88.23 ----------

Compounding Procedure:

Hea t wa te r t o 70C. Add i t e m 6 and m i x u n t i l c l e a r . Add i t e m s

8-10 w i t h mix in g and heat t o 75-80C. Hear i te ms 1-5 t o 65C. Add

t o w a te r m i x t u r e . C ool t o 50C a nd add p r e s e r v a t i v e and f r a g r a n c e .

SOURCE: R . I . T . A . Corp.: Sugges ted Fo rmu la t ions

Ref.

No.

119-25

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 252/553

230 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Leave-On Scalp & Hair Conditioner

A dab o f l e ave -o n sc a lp and h a i r co n d i t i o n e r massaged i n t o

t h e h a i

r

and sca lp , w i 1 1 p r o v i d e c o n d i t i o n i n g a nd manageabi 1

i y

t o t h e h a i r w h i l e p r o v i d i n g m o i s t u r i z a t i o n

o f

t h e s c a l p .

Ph os ph ol ip id GLA

w i l l

h e lp m a in ta i n a h e a l t h y s ca l p and m in im -

i z e i t c h and s c a l i n g caus ed b y e x c e s s iv e d r yn e s s . I t i s a l s o

a d e l i v e r y s ys tem f o r gamma l i n o l e n i c a c i d , an e s s e n t i a l f a t t y

a c i d f o r n o rm a l i z in g s k i n .

I n q r e d i e n t s :

Water

H y d r o x y e t h y l C e l l u l o s e

G l y c o l D i s t e a r a t e

C e t y l A l c o h o l

Monaquat

S L - 5

Phosphol

i

i d GLA

P r e s e r v a t i v e

Wt.%

9 0 .2

0 . 5

1 . 5

5 . 5

0 . 3

a . s .

1 . a

Procedure :

a g i t a t i o n . Add r e m ai n i ng i n g r e d i e n t s p l u s p r e s e r v a t i v e and

heat t o 65-7OC. S t i r coo l t o 40C and add f rag ranc e , c o l o r ,

e t c . p a cka g e .

Charge w a t e r , s l o w l y add h y d r o x y e t h y l c e l l u l o s e w i t h good

Appearance: W h i t e p e a r l e d l o t i o n

V i s c o s i t y : 2500 C P

pH: 6.5

Forrnul a F-653

Extra Hold Conditioning Mousse

I Water

Amp homer

A m i nomethyl Propanol

Dow C or ni ng 929 Emu lsi on

Phosphol i i d EFA

SD3A Alcohol

I I . H y d r o x y e t h y 1 C e l l u l o s e

Water

B Y

Weight

37 * 35

3.75

0 . 6 0

0 . 4 0

0 . 6 0

10 .00

0.30

37.00

1 I I . P r o p e l l a n t 10 .00

Procedure :

P re p a re Pa r t I and I 1 s e p a r a t e l y . To p r e p a r e P a r t 11, c a r e -

f u l l y s p r i n k l e h yd ro xy et hy l c e l l u l o s e i n t o w ate r w i t h good

a g i t a t i o n . Heat may be a p p l i e d t o h e l p s o l u b i l i z a t i o n . B len d

P a r t I 1 t o I nd t h e n a e r o s o l i z e .

Formula

F-554

SOURCE: Mona I n d u s t r i e s , I n c . : S ug ge st ed F o r m u l a t i o n s

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 253/553

Hair Care Products

231

Light

Oil

Free Conditioner

L i g h t o i l f r e e w i t h a to uc h o f f oam ing t o c l e a n l y cond-

i t i o n h a i r t o t h e ends.

1

2 .

3 .

4.

5.

6 .

7 .

8.

9 .

I n q r e d i e n t s :

?~J&

F u n c t i o n

G r i l l o t e n LSE-87K (Su cro se Cocoa te ) 2 .0 0 Co n d i t i o n i n g , M i l d

G r i 1 l o t e n

PSE

141G (Sucrose

S t e a r a t e ) 4 . 0 0

R i t a C e t e a r y l 7 0/ 30 ( C e t e a r y l

A1 coho1

)

2.50

PEG-20 Ce te ar y l Alc oho l 0 .50

Pro p y le n e G l yco l 1 - 0 0

Poly quta 400 (Po lyquate rn ium-10) 1 .50

G l y c e r i n e 3 . 0 0

D i s t i 11 ed/De i on i zed Water 85 .1 7

Fraa ranc e-P ert Tvee 189-724 0. 30

.

l 0 . K a t h o n CG

1 1 . C i t r i c A c i d (25% S o l n . )

C l e a n i n g , M i l d

R e - f a t t i g

Combing

Humectant

Combi ng , S ty1e

M o i s t u r e

Odor

- - -_ - - - -

0 . 0 3 P r e s e r v a t i v e

9 ,s . pH Co n t ro l

Compounding Procedure:

Hea t 1 -4 t o 70C. Se p a ra te l y d i s p e r se i t e m 6 i n wa te r . Then

add i tem s 5 and 7 . Hea t t o 80-85C. Then add i t ems 1 -4 t o m i x tu r e .

Cool t o 40C and add pe r fume and p r es e r v a t i v e . A d j us t pH w i t h

C i t r i c A c i d t o pH 5 . 0 .

Re f . N o . 118-121

Aloe Vera Hai r Condi t ioner (L ight )

A

l i g h t s t r e n g t h c o n d i t i o n e r s p e c i a l l y f o r mu la te d f o r

n or ma l h a i r . Adds s heen t o h a i r .

I n a r e d i e n t s : F u n c t i o n

1

. D i s t i 11ed/Dei on i zed Water 94.4 7 - - - -

2 . R i t a l o e 200M (A loe Vera Ge l ) 0 .25 Sh ine

3 .

R i t a CA ( C e t y l A l c o h o l )

2 . 0 0

Emul s i

f

i r , T h i cken e r

4 . R i t a SA ( S t e a r y l A l c o h o l ) 1 . 0 0 Emul s i f i r , Th i ckene r

5 . Ri ta -STAC (S tea r t r imon ium Ch lo r i de )

1 .50

C o n d i t i o n e r ,

A n t i - s t a t i c

6 . S im ch in R e f i n e d ( J o j o b a O i l ) 0 . 7 5 C o n d i t i o n e r , S hi ne

7. Kathon CG 0 . 0 3 P r e s e r v a t i v e

8 . Fragrance q

.

s .Odor

Compounding Procedure:

Heat i tems 1 and 2 t o 70C. Heat i te m s 3-6 t o 65-70C and add

w i t h s t i r r i n g . C o nt in u e m i x i n g u n t i l b a t c h r ea ch es 40-45C. Add

Kathon and Fragrance.

SOURCE: R . I . T . A , Corp . : Suggested Fo r mu l a t i ons

R e f . No. 116-174

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 254/553

232

Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations

Low Cost Relaxer

A l ow er c o s t r e l a x e r w i t h r educed o i l phase m a t e r i a l s .

Laneto-100 p r o v i d e s s c a lp p r o t e c t i o n f ro m i r r i t a t i o n .

I n g r e d i e n t s :

1 R i t a c h o l 2000 ( R . I . T . A . B l e n d )

2 . R i t a SA ( S t e a r y l A l c o h o l )

3 .

R i t o l e t h - 1 0 ( O l et h -1 0)

4 . P e t r o l a t u m

5 .

M i n e r a l O i l

70 w t .

6 . Laneto-100 (PEG-75 L an ol in )

7 . P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l

8 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water

9 . Sodium Hydroxide (25% S o l n . )

%w/w

1 5 . 0 0

1 . o o

2 . 0 0

8 . 0 0

1 0 . 0 0

0 . 5 0

2 . 0 0

5 2 . 5 0

9 . 0 0

F u n c t i o n

Emul s i f

i

r

Emul s i f i r

Emul s i f i r

V i s c o s i t y

Spread

Fee l

M o i s t u r e

Re la xe r

--------

Compounding Procedure:

Combine i tems 1 -5 and hea t t o 60C. I n a sepa ra te co n t a i ne r ,

hea t i tem s 6-8 and hea t t o 60C. Add t o o i l phase and m ix a t l ow

speed. Coo l t o 45C and add Sod ium Hyd rox i de so l u t i o n . Cont inue

m ix i n g a n d f i l l t o j a r s a t 30C.

R e f . No. 120-26

Extra Stable Relaxer

Very c o s t e f f i c i e n t , s t a b l e r e l a x e r f o r m u l a t i o n wh ich i s

easy t o p r o c e s s .

I n q r e d i e n t s :

1 . R i t a c h o l 5000 ( R . I . T . A . B l e n d ) 1 0 . 0 0

2 . M i n e r a l O i l 70 W t . 16.00

3 . R i t a c h o l ( M i n e r a l

O i l

and L a n o l i n A l c o h o l ) 2 . 0 0

4 . P e t r o l a t u m

1 7 . 0 0

5

R i t a h y d r o x ( H y d r o x y l a t e d L a n o l i n ) 0 . 6 0

6 . R i t a S A ( S t e a r y l A l c o h o l ) 2 . 0 0

7 . R i t o x 52 (PEG-40 Stearate) 1 . 5 0

8 . G l y c e r i n e 6 . 00

9 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 3 4. 70

10.Methy lparaben

0 . 2 0

11.Sod ium Hydrox ide (20% S o l u t i o n ) 1 0 . 0 0

F u n c t i o n

E m u l s i f i e r

Spread

Fee l

T e x t u r e

S t a b i 1 i y

Emul s i f i r

S tab i 1i y

M o i s t u r e

P r e s e r v a t i v e

Re1 ax er

-------

-

Compounding Procedure:

Combine items

1 - 7

i n o r b i t a l m i xe r a t 80C. Combine i t e m s 8-10

a t 80C and add t o o i l m i x t u r e . Coo l t o 65C. Add Sodium Hydrox id e

s o l u t i o n w i t h a g i t a t i o n . Cool i n i c e b a t h t o 25C. Homogenize

i

necessary

t o

f u r t h e r i mprove s t a b i l i t y .

Re f .

No.

117-21A

SOURCE: R. I . T . A . Co rp . : Sug ge sted F o rm u la t i o n s

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 255/553

Hair

Care

Products

233

Medium Hold, 80 VOC Pump Hair Spray

Dia fo rm e r

Z - A

p r o v i d e s a medium h o l d i n t h i s c l e a r , w at er

w h i t e s p r a y . I t a l s o r ed uc es s t a t i c and i mp ro ve s m a n a g e a b i l i t y

when t h e h a i r i s combed. I t s c l e a r , f l e x i b l e f i l m g i v e s a

n a t ur a l l o ok i n g h o ld w h i l e o f f e r i n g e x c e l l e n t c u r l r e t e n t i o n .

I n g r e d i e n t s

:

Phase

A :

D i

aformer Z - A

Dow Corning

190

Monamide 716

SD 40 A l c o h o l

Fragrance

Dei o n i zed Water

w/w

5.00

0 . 2 0

0 . 1 0

75.00

0 . 1 0

Q S

Procedure :

Add Diaformer Z - A t o a l c oh o l , m i x i n g w e l l . Add w at er w i t h

m i x i n g . Add r e m a i ni n g i n g r e d i e n t s one a t a t i m e w i t h m i x i n g ,

P r o p e r t

i

s :

Formulat ion CHF-12

Appearance: C r y s t a l c l e a r , w a te r w h i t e l i q u i d

55

VOC Pump Hair Spray

T h i s

55%

VOC

h a i r s p ra y i n c o r p o r a t e s D i af o rm e r

2 -400 .

T h i s

deodor i zed po lymer i s w e l l s u i t e d t o l i g h t l y f ra g r an c ed

p r o d u c t s .

I t

p r o v i d e s a medium h o l d i n t h i s c r y s t a l c l e a r ,

wa te r wh i t e sp ra y . Ve lsa n P8-3 a c t s a a n on -g re asy su p e r fa t t i n g

a g e n t .

I n a r e d i e n t s r

Phase A :

D i aformer 2-400

SD

40 A lco h o l

Velsan P8-3

Fragrance

Deio n ize d Water

4 .0 0

40 . 00

0 5 0

0 . 0 5

Q S

P r o c e d u r e :

m i x i n g .

A d d

r e m a in i n g i n g r e d i e n t s one a t a t i m e w i t h m i x i n g .

P r o p e r t i s :

Add Diaformer 2-400 t o a l c o h o l , m i x i n g we1

1 .

Add wa te r w i t h

Appearance: C r y s t a l c l e a r , w a te r w h i t e l i q u i d

Formulat ion CHF-14

SOURCE:

Sandoz

Cherni c a l

s

Corp.

:

Suggested Formul

a t i

ons

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 256/553

234 Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations

Medium Strength Hair Conditioner

C o n d i t i o n i n g d es ig ne d t o p r o v i d e n o u r i s h i n g and c om bing

b e n e f i t s w h i l e l e a v i n g a c l e an f e e l i n t h e wet mode due t o

Dimethy l Quat .

I n g r e d i e n t s : F u n ct i o n

1 . R it a-SBC (S te a ra l ko n ium Ch lo r i d e ) 1 .1 4 Co n d i t i o n e r

2 .

Rita-CTAC (Ce t r imon ium Ch lo r i de ) 0 .48 Co nd i t i o ne r

3 . R it a- CA ( C e t y l A l c o h o l ) 0 .8 5 R e - f a t t i n g

4 . C i t r i c A c i d @ 100% 0.09 pH Cont ro l

5 . Dim ethy l Stea ram ine (Adogen MA-108) 0 .13 C o nd i t io n er

7. Promois

WK-HQ

(Hyd roxyp ropy l

t r i oni urn Hyd ro 1yzed Kera t i )

0 . 0 5

Body

8 .

R i t a l o e 200M (A loe Ve ra Ge l ) 0 . 0 5 Body

9 . Ri ta p a n D L ( d l - P a n t h e n o l ) 0 .05 Body

1 0 .P ro p y le n e G l yco l

0 . 5 0

Clean Fee l

11

.

H yd ro xy et hy l C e l l u l o se (Na t ro so l

250 HHR) 1 .00 V i scos i t y

12 .Kathon CG 0 . 0 3 P r e s e r v a t i v e

13.Dow C or ni ng 2-7224 0. 40 Combing

14.Dow Co rn i ng 344 F l u i d 0.1 7 Combing

15. Fragranc e 0 . 2 5 Odor

Compounding Procedure:

t o 70C, add i te m 5 and mix

20

min . Add ano the r 10% o f t h e wa te r

a t

room temp era t u re and co nt in ue mix in g 20 min . To rema in ing

75% o f wa ter add i te ms 7 ,8 and 9 a t room temp era t u re . Add i t e m

10 and s l o w ly s i f t i n i t e m 1 1. A g i t a t e 1 5 m in . w h i l e h e a t i n g

b a t c h t o 35C. When b a t c h t h i c k e n s , i n c r e a s e a g i t a t i o n f o r u p

t o 60 m in . u n t i l u n i f o rm . Add i t e m s 12 ,13 a nd 14, co n t i n u e

m i x i n g . Then add q u a t e r n a r y / f a t t y a l c o h o l phase ( i t e m s 1 - 6 )

and f r a g r a n c e . M i x u n t i l u n i f o r m .

6 . D i s t i 11ed/Dei o n i zed Water 94. 81 - - - - - - - - -

To 15% o f t o t a l wa te r a t 65C add se p a ra te l y i t e m s 1 -4 . Hea t

Re f . No. 116-1618

Medium Hair Conditioner

Humectant c o n d i t i o n e r t o m a xi mi ze combing f r om s i l i c o n e a nd

body f ro m g l y c e r i n e .

I n q r e d i e n t s : F u n ct i o n

1 .

R i

a-STAC ( S t e a r t r i m o n i um

2 . R i t a GMS ( G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e ) 1 . 00 C o n t r o l

3 . R i t a CA ( C e t y l A l c o h o l ) 5 . 0 0 Co a t i n g

4 . R i t a c e t i ( C e t y l E s t e r s ) 2 .0 0 Combing

5 .

Ri tace t -PO (Ce te a re th -2 0 ) 0 .50 Em u l s i f i e r

6.

G l y c e r i n e

1.00 Humectancy

8 . Dow Co rn ing 344 F l u i d 2.00 Combing, Shin e

9 . Frag rance - Finesse Type 0 . 3 0 Odor

10 .Ka thon CG 0 . 0 3 P r e s e r v a t i v e

Compounding Procedure:

Hea t i tems 1 -5 t o 70C. I n sepa ra te beaker hea t i tem s 6 and

7 t o 75C. Add 1 -5 t o wa te r . M i x and co o l t o

5 0 C .

Add s i l i c o n e and

m ix . Add p er fum e a nd p r e s e r va t i ve .

Re f . No. 118-117

SOURCE:

R . I . T . A .

Corp . : Suggested Form ula t i ons

C h l o r i d e ) 2.40 C o n d i t i o n e r

7 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 8 5. 77 - - - - - - - -

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 257/553

Hair Care

Products 235

Moisture Balance Conditioner w/Cropeptide W

A l t ho u g h t h i s easy-to-m ake c o n d i t i o n e r c o n t a i n s few i n g r e d -

i e n t s , i t d e l i v e r s b i g c o n d i t i o n i n g b e n e f i t s .

I n g r e d i e n t s :

P a r t A :

I n c r o q u a t CR Conc. (C et ea ry l Al co ho l (and) PEG-40 Ca st or

O i l ( a n d) S t e a r a l k o n i u m C h l o r i d e ) 6.00

P a r t B:

Dei on i zed Water

92 .70

P a r t

C :

C r o p e p t i d e W (H yd ro l yz ed Wheat P r o t e i n (and) Wheat

01 i osacca r i des )

1 . 0 0

Methyl paraben

0 . 2 0

Prop y l pa raben 0 .1 0

Procedure :

Hea t Pa r t A and Par t B s e p a r a t e l y t o 70-75C w i t h m i x i n g .

A t 70-75C, add P a r t B t o P ar t A w i t h m i x i n g a nd c o o l t o 40C.

Add i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t

C

i n d i v i d u a l l y w i t h m i x i n g and c oo l

t o d e s i r ed f i l l t e m p e ra tu re .

pH: 4 . O t - 0 . 5 V i s c o s i t y : 2 , O O O t - 1 0 (C25C)

N . A . T . C . Approved

SOURCE:

C r o d a I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n

H P - 1 5 8

Leave-On Conditioner Concentrate

1 . I n co rp o r a t e f ra g ra n ce . Take an e xa c t we ig h t o f Co n ce n t ra te and

add e x a c t w e i g ht o f f r a g ra n c e ( de pe nd in g on l e v e l a f t e r d i l -

u t i o n . B le nd t o g e t h e r w i t h t ho r ou g h m i x i n g .

N o te : C o n c en t ra t e c o n t a i n s o n l y enough p r e s e r v a t i v e t o p r o t e c t

t h e c o n c e n t r a t e. P le as e add a d d i t i o n a l p r e s e r v a t i v e t o

p ro du ct d i l u t e d s o l u t i o n .

2 .

D i l u t e t h e above c o n ce nt r at e d b l e n d w i t h 7 p a r t s

o f

d e i o n i z e d

w a te r f o r a

f i r m

s e t , o r w i t h 9 p a r t s d e io n iz e d w at er f o r

r e g u l a r s e t t i n g p ro d uc t .

3 . A pp ly f i n i s h e d p r o d uc t t o shampooed and t o w el d r i e d h a i r .

D o n ' t r i n s e . S t y l e h a i r .

SOURCE:

M c In t y r e G rou p L t d . : Sug ge sted F o rm u la t i o n

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 258/553

236 Cosmetic and Toiletry

Formulations

Natural Lipid Condit ioner for Professional Salon

Mac kern i um SDC-85 ( S t e a r a l ko ni um C h l o r i d e )

Mackalene NDC (O leamidop ropy l D ime thy lamine

We igh t ,%

1 . 5

(O le am id o pro p y l D im e th y l a min e L a c ta t e (a n d ) P a lm i t -

a m id op ro p yl D im e th y l am in e L a c ta t e (an d) Palmi t o l -

eami dop rop yl Dim ethy l ami ne L ac ta te ) . o

Mackpro NLP (Quatern ium-79 Hyd ro ly zed Animal P r o t e i n )

( N a t ur a l L i p i d P r o t e i n ) 2 .0

M acko l 1618 (Ce te a r y l A l c o h o l ) 1 .8

S tea re th -2 1

. E

M a cks ta t

DM

(DMDM Hyd a n to i n ) q s

Water, Fragrance, Dye q s t o 1 00 .0

Procedure :

1 .

Add f i r s t f i v e components t o wa t er and h e a t t o 70 de gr ee s

C .

2 . Cool t o

4 5

degrees

C .

and add remaining components.

3 .

Cool and f i l l .

Mild Opaque Conditioner

Weigh t ,%

Macka lene 326 (S tea ramidop ropy l Morpho l ine La c t a t e ) 8 .0

C e t y l A l c o h o l 1 . 8

Ph o sp h o r i c Ac i d

0 . 6

Sod ium Ch lor ide 0 . 3

Macks ta t DM (DMDM Hyd a n to i n ) q s

Water, Dye, Fragrance,

q s

t o 10 0. 0

Procedure :

1 . Add f i r s t f o u r components t o wa te r a nd h e a t t o 70 de g re e s C .

2 .

W i t h s t i r r i n g , c o o l and add dy e, p r e s e r v a t i v e and perfum e

a t 40 degrees C .

Mild Pearl Condit ioner

Wei aht %

Macka lene 326 (S tea ramidop ropy l Morpho l ine La c t a t e ) 7 .0

PEG

400

D i s t e a r a t e 0 .5

Sod ium Ch lo r ide 0 . 5

Macks ta t DM (DMDM Hydantoin) q s

Wate r , dye , f rag rance ,

q s

t o 1 00 .0

Procedure :

1 . Add t h e f i r s t t h r e e c omponents t o w at er and h ea t t o 65

2 . W i th c on t i nu ou s s t i r r i n g , c oo l t o 40 degrees C . and add dye,

SOURCE:

M c I n t y r e Group L t d . : Pe rson a l Care F o rm ula ry

degrees C .

p r e s e r v a t i v e and f r a g r an c e .

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 259/553

Hair Care Products 237

Non-Aerosol Hair Spray with Protein

A non-aeros o l h a i r spr ay based on p r o t e i n (Promois WK-HQ)

and Ri tapan DL. E x t r a sheen i s d e r i v e d f r o m R i t a l a n AWS.

I n a r e d i e n t s :

1 SD A lco h o l - 4 0 66.70

2 . E t h y l E s t e r o f PVM/MA-Copolymer 7 . 0 0

3 .

AMP-95 0 . 2 0

4 . D ime th icone Copo lyo l 0 .50

5 . R i t a l a n AWS (PPG-12-PEG-65 L a n o l i n O i l ) 0 .2 0

6 . F ra g ra n ce

0 . 1 0

7 .

Promois

WK-HQ

( P r o t e i n ) 0 .2 0

8 . R i t a p a n

D L

0 . 1 0

9 . D i s t i 1 ed /D ei on i zed Water 25.00

Func t

i

n

So l ub i 1i y

H o l d

N e u t r a l i z a t i o n

Sheen

Sheen

Odor

Repai r

M o i s t u r e

----- - --

Compounding Procedure:

Combine item

2

t o a l co h o l a nd m i x u n t i l c l e a r . Add AMP and

m ix w e l l . Add i t e m s 4-6 i n o r d e r

w i t h

good a g i t a t i o n . P re -m ix

i t e ms 7-9 and m ix u n t i l u n i f o r m .

SOURCE: R . I . T . A .

Corc . :

Ref. No. 1 2 0 - 2 4

Hair Rinse for Stressed Hair

Component:

I Emulgade 1 0 0 0 N i

Eutano l

G

Cocopherol 1250

11. Dehyquar t A

Wa te r , d e m in . /P re se rva t i o n

pH-Value: approx. 4

V is c os i t y mPas, app ro x . : 10 .000

4,O

2,o

2;o

4 , O

88,O

P r ep a ra t io n i n t h e L ab or a t or y:

Phase I t i r a t t h i s t e m p e ra t u re f o r 5 m i nu t e s . C ool down t o 40C

w h i l e s t i r r i n g . Add p r e s e r v a t i v e a n d , i f ne ces sar y, h ea t s e n s i t i v e

a d d i t i v e s . C ool down t o 30C w h i l e s t i r r i n g . A d j u s t t h e pH v a l u e

e . g . w i t h c i t r i c a c id .

SOURCE: Henkel

K G a A :

F o r m u l a t i o n No.

90/322/7

Mel t phase I t 80-850. Heat phase

I 1

t o 80-85C and s t i r i n t o

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 260/553

238 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Pearly Lotion Conditioner

Wei q h t

Macka lene 316 (St eara mido prop y l D imethy lamine Lac ta te ) 7.0

PEG

400

D i s t e a r a t e 0 . 5

Sodium S u l f a t e 0 . 5

P ro p y le n e G l yco l 2 . 0

M a cks ta t DM (DMDM Hyd a n to i n )

q s

Water, Dye, Fragrance qs t o 100.0

Procedure :

1 . Add f i r s t f o u r components t o w a t er a nd h e a t t o

65

degrees C.

2 .

W it h m i l d a g i t a t i o n c o o l t o

45

degrees C . and add remain ing

components.

3. Cool and f i l l .

Protein Lotion Conditioner

Wei q h t I

Macki ne 301 (St eara mido prop y l D imethy lamine) 1 . 5

Macko l 16 (C e ty l A lc oho l ) 2 . 5

L a c t i c A c i d 88 0 . 7

Mackpro NLP ( Quat ern i un-79 Hy dro lyz ed Animal P r o t e i n )

( N at ur a l L i p i d P r o t e i n ) 1 . 5

Sodium Ch lo r i de 0 .5

M a cks ta t DM (DMDM Hyd a n to i n ) qs

Water, Fragrance, Dye qs t o 1 00 .0

Procedure :

1 . D i s s o l v e s odium c h l o r i d e i n w at e r.

2 .

Add f i r s t fo u r componen ts and hea t t o 70 degrees C .

3 . B1 end u n t i 1 homogenous.

4 .

Cool t o 4 5 degrees

C .

and add r em ai ni ng components.

5 . Cool and f i l l .

Spray Leave-On Condi t ioner

Weiqht ,%

Mackpro NLP (Q uate rn i um-79 Hy dr o ly ze d Animal P r o t e i n )

( N at u ra l L i p i d P r o t e i n ) 1 . o

Mackalene 426 ( I s o s t e a r a m i d o pr o p y l M o r p h o l i n e L a c t a t e ) 3 . 0

M a cks ta t DM (DMDM Hydantoin) q s

Water, Dye, Fragrance qs t o

100,o

Procedures:

1 . Add components t o wa te r .

2 . Heat t o 40 degrees

C .

and b l en d u n t i l c l e a r .

SOURCE:

Mc In t y r e Group L t d . : Pe rsona l Ca re

Formulary

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 261/553

Hair Care

Products

239

Pump Gel Type Spritz

A

g e l s e t t i n g l o t i o n w h ic h c an be d i s pe n s ed f r o m a pump.

C o nt a in s S e t t i n g a ge nt s, a n t i - s t a t s and R i ta p an

D L

f o r r e p a i r

and l u s t e r .

I n a r e d i e n t s :

1 . D i s t i 1 ed /D e i on i zed Water

2 . P ro p yle n e G l y co l

3 . R i t a p a n DL (Pan theno l D L )

4 . R i t a l o e 200M (A loe Ge l )

5 . Po l yqu ta 3000 (Po lyqua te rn ium-10 )

6 . R i t a b a t e 2 0 ( P o l y s o r b a t e 2 0 )

7 . H y d r o x y e t h y l c e l l u l o s e

8 . R i t a CTAC (Ce t r im o n iu m Ch lo r i d e )

9 .

Fraa rance

88.87

5.00

1

. o o

1 - 0 0

2 .00

1 . o o

1 . o o

0 .5 0

0.20

F u n c t i o n

Humectant

Re p a i r

Repai r

S e t , A n t i -

S t ab i 1

i

y

Gel 1i g

Condi t i on

Odor

_ _ _ _ _ _ - - -

l 0 .Ka thon CG 0 .0 3 P re se rva t

Compoun

Comb

u n t i l c

u n i f o r m

and mix

Re f .

i

g Procedure :

ne i tems 3 and 4 w i t h t h e wa te r and hea t t o 60C

e a r . D i s p er s e i t e m s 5 and 7 i n t o b a t c h . M i x u n t

(a b o u t 30 m in u te s ) . T hen add re m a in i n a i t e m s i n

w e l l

N O . 118-180

Moisturizing Hair Styling Gel

I n a r e d i e n t

1 .

D i

s t i 1 ed /D e i on i zed Water

2 Ac ri ta me r 940 (Carbomer 940)

3 . G l y c e r i n e

4 . R i tapan DL (Pan theno l d l )

5 . E thano l

@

95%

6 . Laneto 50 (PEG-75 L an o l i n)

7 .

Rita phen one 3 (Benzophenone-3)

8 . Te t rasod ium EDTA

9. PPG-12-Buteth-16

1O.PVP

11. Fragran ce

12.DMDM Hydantoin

13. T r i et ha no l ami ne @ 99%

1 4 . D i

s t i 1 ed/D ei on i zed Water

1 5 . R i t a l a s t i n EL 30

58.20

0.60

10.00

0 .20

10.00

5.00

0.10

0 . 10

5 . 0 0

1.50

0 . 1 0

0 .20

0 .6 0

5 .40

3.00

. S t a t

M

1

o r d e r

ng

ve

X

Func t

i

n

Gel 1

i

g

C o n d i t i o n i n g

Moi s t u r i z a t i o n

C l a r i t y

Sh ine

UV Absorber

C1 a r i y

Se t

Se t

Odor

P r e s e r v a t i v e

PH

_-__--_---

-----_--

M o i s t u r e

Compounding Procedure:

u n t i l u n i f o r m . S e p a r a t e l y com bine i t e m s 4-12 and i t e m 15 . M i x

u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add t o A c r i t a m e r m i x t u r e . P re mi x 13 & 14 f o r 10%

TEA

s o l u t i o n . Add t o m i x t u r e and a g i t a t e d u r i n g t h i c k e n i n g .

SOURCE: R . I . T , A . Corp . : Suggested Fo r mu l a t i ons

Combine i tems

1 +

3 and mi x . Add i t e m 2 s lo w l y w i t h a g i t a t i o n

Re f . N o . 118-142

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 262/553

24 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Pump Spray Hair Detangler

H e a l t h y s h i n e d e t a n g l i n g s p r a y based on c a t i o n i c s

I n q r e d i e n t s : w/w F u n c t i o n

1 . R ita-CTAC (Ce t r imon ium C h l o r id e )

2 . 0 0

C a t i o n i c

2 . D i s t i 11ed/Dei o n i zed Water 8 8 . 5 0 - - - - - - - -

3 .

4 .

5 .

6 .

7 .

8 .

9 .

1 0 .

D i me t hi c on e C o p o l y o l ( A b i l

8

88183)

Supe rs at AWS-4 (PEG-20 Hy dr og en at ed

G l y c e r i n e 13 99%

Pro p y le n e G l yco l

Ri ta pa n DL (Pantheno l

DL)

S im c hi n R e f i n ed ( J o j ob a O i l )

G l y d a n t

F rag rance - P er t P l us Type #189-724

La no l i n )

1 .00 S l i o

1 .00 Fee l

4 . 0 0 M o i s t u r e

2 . 0 0 Moi s t u r e

1 O O H e a l t h

0 .1 5 Sh in e

0 . 2 0 P r e s e r v a t i v e

0.15 Odor

Compounding Procedure:

H ea t w a te r t o 87C and add i t e m 4 . M i x u n t i l c l e a r . Add

r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s e x c ep t p r e s e r v a t i v e and pe rf um e. C oo l

t o 46C and add i te ms 9 and 10.

R e f . No. 118-171

Hot Oil Treatment

Hot o i l t re at me nt f o r deeo o e n et r a t i o n o f t h e h a i r s h a f t .

R ejuvenates h a i r t o i t s h e a l t hy s t a t e

I n a r e d i e n t s :

1 . M i n e r a l O i 1 65/70

2 . P a t i o n i c I S L (Na I s o s t e a r o y l

L a c t y l a t e )

3 .

L a u ry l M y r i s t y l A l c oh o l

4 . Phenoxyethano l

5 . Shebu Re f ine d (Shea B u t t e r )

6 . L a n o l i n - X - t r a D e od o ri z ed ( L a n o l i n )

7 . Fragrance-F lo ra l #169-120

8 .

G lyd a n t

Compounding Procedure:

Combine i tem s 1-6 and heat t o 165F

Add pe r fume and p rese rva t i ve .

R e f . No. 118-119

w/w

F u n c t i o n

8 9 .0 0 M o i s tu re , Sh ine

5 . 0 0 S u b s t a n t i v e

i o n

2 . 0 0 C o u p l i n g

1 O O

U V

P r o t e c

0 . 5 0 Emol 1i n t

2 . 0 0 R e p a i r

0 . 3 0 Odor

0 . 2 0 P r e s e r v a t

M i x and c o o l t o

ve

120F.

SOURCE: R . I . T . A , C o r p . :

Sugges ted Fo rmu la t ions

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 263/553

Hair Care Products

241

Ringing Gel

C l ea r r i n g i n g g e l w i t h m o i s t u r i z a t i o n f ro m P a t i o n i c I S L and

g e l s t r u c t u r e f r om S u pe r sa t .

I n g r e d i e n t s :

w/w

F u n c t i o n

1 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d W ater 4 2. 40 _ _ _ - - _ _ _ _ _

2 . G l y c e r i n e 1 5 .0 0 F e el

3 . M i n e r a l

O i l

70 sus . 12.0 0 Coat

4 . R i t o l e t h 5 ( O le t h- 5 ) 1 0. 00 E m u l s i f i e r

5 . Supersa t

AWS

4 (Peg-20 H ydrogenat ed La no l i n) 17 .0 0 Gel

6 . P a t i o n i c ISL ( So diu m I s o s t e a r o y l L a c t y l a t e ) 1

. O O

M i l d n e s s

7. 2 -Phenoxyethano l 2 .00 So l u b i 1i e r

8 . Germa l l

I 1

0 . 4 0 P r e s e r v a ti e

9 . Frag rance 0 . 2 0 Odor

Compounding Procedure:

Heat i t em s 1 and 2 t o 165F. Heat i te ms 3-7 t o 165F. Add i te ms

3-7 t o i t e m s 1 and 2 . M i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . Pour i n j a r s a t 135F.

R e f .

No.

118-160

Micro Em ulsion Ringing Gel

Shebu WS r i n g i n g m i c r o e mu ls io n g e l . I d e a l f o r h a i r d r e s s i n g

w i t h m i l d n e s s and s h i n e .

I n g r e d i e n t s : F u n c ti o n

1 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 5 3. 70

2 . G l y c e r i n e 1 0 .0 0 F ee l

3 . M i n e r a l O i l , L i g h t 1 2. 00 S h i ne

4 . R i t o l e t h 5 ( O l et h - 5) 1 0. 00 E mu ls i f ie r

5 . Supersa t AWS 4 (PEG-20 Hydrogen ated La no l i n) 12 .0 0 Ring\Gel

6 . P a t i o n i c ISL (Sod i um I so s t e a ro y l L a c t y l a t e ) 1 . O O M i 1dness

7 . Shebu WS (PEG-50 Shea B u t t e r ) 1

. O O

Sh ine

8. G1 ydan t (DMDM Hyd anto i n) 0 .20 P r e s e r v a t i v e

9 . Fragranc e 0 .1 0 Odor

Compounding Procedure:

h ea t t o 1 75F. Add t h i s t o t h e f i r s t phase w i t h a g i t a t i o n . (No te :

p rocess may need an add-back o f 3 -5% w at e r) . Cool t o 130F o r

u n t i l t h i c k e n i n g o c cu r s. Add i te m s 8 and 9 . Add back wa t e r l o s s .

F i l l a t t h i s t em pe r a tu r e i n t o j a r s and co v er .

Heat i t em s 1,2 and 7 t o 175F. Combine i te ms 3,4,5 and 6 and

R e f .

N o .

118-162

SOURCE:

R. I . T .A . Co rp .: Su gg e ste d F o rm u la t i o n s

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 264/553

242

Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations

Salon Type Hair Condi t ioner

S t a t e o f t h e a r t p r o te i n/ p an t he no l based h a i r c o n d i t i o n e r

d e s ign e d f o r a chie ve m en t o f s a l o n t y p e p e r fo rm an ce .

I n n r e d i e n t s :

%w/w

F u n c t i o n

1 .

R i t a CA ( C e t y l A l c o h o l ) 0 .85 Clean Fee l

2 . R it a-ST AC (S te a r t r im o n iu m Ch lo r i d e ) 0 .44 Co n d i t i o n e r

3 . Rita-CTAC (Ce t r imon ium Ch lo r i de ) 0 .48 Co nd i t i o ne r

4. C i t r i c A ci d I3 100%

0.09 pH Cont ro l

5 . Di met hyl Stea rami ne (Adogen MA-108) 0 .13 C on di t i on er

6 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d W ater 9 5. 51

_ _ _ _ _ _ - - - _

7 . Promois WK-HQ (Hyd ro xyDro p v l t r im o n -

. . -

i m Hy dro1yzed Kera t i ) 0. 05 Body

8 . R i t a l o e ZOOM (A loe Vera Ge l ) 0 . 0 5 Body

9. R i t apan DL (d l - Pa nt he no l ) 0 .05 Body

10 .Propy lene G l yc o l 0 .50 C lean Fee

1 1 .H y dr o xy e th y l C e l l u l o s e ( N a t r o s o l

250 HHR) I

00

V i s c o s i t y

12 .Kathon CG 0 . 0 3 P r e s e r v a t

13.Dow C or ni ng 2-7224

0 . 4 0

Combing

14.Dow Co rn i ng 344 F l u i d 0.17 Combing

15.F ragr ance 0.25 Odor

ve

Compoundi ng Pr oc ed ur e:

To 15% o f t o t a l w a te r a t 65C add se p a ra t e l y i t e m s 1 -4 .

Hea t t o 70C, add i t em 5 and mix 20 m i n . Add an oth er 10% o f

th e wa te r a t room tempera tu r e and co n t i nue m ix in g 20 m in .

To re mai n in g 75% o f wate r add i te ms 7,8 and 9 a t room temp-

e r a t u r e . Add i t e m 10 and s l o w l y s i f t i n i t e m 11. A g i t a t e 15

m i n . w h i l e h e a t i n g b a t c h s l i g h t l y t o 35C. When b a t c h t h i c k e n s ,

i nc r ea s e a g i t a t i o n f o r up t o 60 m in . u n t i l u n i f o r m .

Ref. No. 116-181A

Salon Type air Conditioner

Salon t y p e h a i r c o n d i t i o n i n g i s a ch ie ved w i t h t h e h e l p o f

Shebu and an a l l - n a t u r a l c o n d i t i o n i n g a g en t .

I n a r e d i e n t s :

1 .

Ri ta c h o l 1000 (R . I . T .A . B l e n d)

2 . Shebu Re f i ne d (Shea Bu t t e r )

3 . R i t o l e t h - 1 0 ( O l e t h - 1 0 )

4 . R ita-CTAC (Ce t r imon ium Ch lo r i de )

5 . G l y c e r i n e

6 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water

7 .

Frag rance - S i 1 k i en ce Type #169-120

8. Kathon

CG

w

5 .0 0

0 . 5 0

0 .5 0

2 . 0 0

3.00

88.67

0 .3 0

0.03

F u n c t i o n

Emu1 s i

f

i

r

N a t u r a l S h i n e

Appl i a t i on

C o n d i t i o n i n g

M o i s t u r e

Odor

P r e s e r v a t i v e

- - - - - - - -

Compounding Procedure:

Combine i te ms 1-4 and he at t o 70C. I n a sepa ra t e beake r

combine i tems 5 and 6 and heat t o 75-80C. Add i tem s 1-4 t o

wa te r m i x tu re an d m i x u n t i l u n i f o rm . Coo l t o 40C a nd a dd

f r a g r a n c e and p r e s e r v a t i v e .

SOURCE: R . I . T . A . C o r p . : Sugges ted Fo rmu la t ions

Ref. No. 118-120

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 265/553

Hair Care Products 243

Sil icone Hair Gel

S i l i c o n e based s e t t i n g g e l . H ig h g l y c e r i n e a p p r o pr i a te f o r

c u r l a c t i v a t i o n . R i t a p a n D1 f o r h um ec ta nc y.

I n n r e d i e n t s :

1

.

D i s t i 11 ed/Dei o n i zed Water

2 .

Acri tamer 940 (Carbomer 940)

3 . G l y c e r i n e

4 . P ro p yle n e G l yc o l

5 Dimeth icone Copo lyo l

6 . R i tapan DL (Pan theno l d l )

7 .

Laneto 50 (PEG-75 Lanol in)

8 . F rag rance

9 . G1 yda nt (DMDM Hydan to i n )

1O.TEA @ 99%

3

81.10

0.80

10.00

5.00

1 . o o

0.80

0 . 5 0

0.10

0 . 2 0

0.80

F u n c t i o n

G e l l i n g

C u r l

Emol 1i n t

Sh ine

M o i s t u r e

Sh ine

Odor

P r e s e r v a t i v e

PH

_ _ - _ _ _ _ _ _ _

Compounding Procedure:

Premix i te ms 4,5,6 and

7

w i t h a g i t a t i o n . P re mi x i t e m s 8 and 9

i n t o i t e m

3.

Combine i t e m 1 0 w i t h re m a in i n g 10% o f t h e wa t e r .

Ne u t ra l i ze Ac r i t a m e r s o l u t i o n . When co m p le te a dd o th e r p re m ixe s

and m ix u n t i l u n i f o r m .

Re f . N o . 118-156

D i sp er s e s l o w l y i t e m

2

i n t o 90% o f t h e w ate r w i t h a g i t a t i o n .

Shebu Hair Sett ing Gel

W ater ba sed s e t t i n g g e l w i t h Shebu. The s e t t i n g a ge nt i s

p l a s t i c i z e d w i t h S upers at f o r s o f t e r h o l d .

I n a r e d i e n t s : F u n c t i o n

2. Acr i tam er 940 (Carbomer 940) 0 .70 G e l l i n g

. D i s t i 1 ed/D ei on i zed Water 60.80 - - _ _ - - - - _ _

3.

D i

s t i 1ed/Dei on i zed Water 26.50

4 . G l y ce r i n e 4 .00 Moi s t u r e

5.

Shebu WS (PEG-50 Shea B u t t e r ) 3 .00 Lu st er

6. Supersa t AWS 4 (Peg 2 0-Hydrog en ated L a n o l i n ) 1 .0 0 P l a s t i c i z e r

7 . PVP

K-30

2 . 0 0 Set

8. Ri tapan DL (Pan theno l d l ) 0.20 Moi s t u r e

9 .

TEA

@

50

1.40 pH

10 ,F rag rance 0.20 Odor

11

.DMDM

Hyd a n to i n

0 . 2 0

P r e s e r v a t i v e

Compounding Procedure:

S l o w ly d i sp e r s e A cr i t am er i n t o i t e m 1 . A g i t a te u n t i l f u l l y

h y d ra t e d. Combine i t e m s 3-9 u n t i l u n i f o r m ( s l i g h t h e a t i n g may

be n e c e ss a r y ). Add t h i s t o t h e A c r i ta m e r m i x t u r e , add i t e m s

10 and 11, and a g i t a t e u n t i l u n i f o r m .

SOURCE: R.I.T.A. Corp . : Suggested Fo r mu la t ion s

Ref. No. 118-158

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 266/553

244 Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations

Stiff Holding Hairspray

I nq

r

ed

i

n t

s :

Amphomer

AMP

C r o t e i n AD

Dow Corning 556

C i t r o f l e x 2

O c t y l D i m e t h y l

PABA

SDA

40

Pr ope l 1 an t A-46

P r e p a r a t i o n

:

D i s s o l v e AMP i n t h e a nh yd ro us a l c o h o l . Wh

Pa r t s by Wei qh t

4 .75

0.80

0 .20

0 . 1 5

0 .20

0 . 0 5

6 .85

30.00

l e m a in ta

n ing good

a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y add Amphomer t o t h e v o r t e x . C o n t in u e m i x i n g

u n t i l s o l u t i o n i s co mp le te . Add ba la n ce o f i n g r e d i e n t s . When

co m p le te l y d i s so l ve d an d homogeneous, f i l t e r and

f i l l

c o n c e n t r a t e

C h a r g e p r o p e l l a n t .

P r ec i s i on Speci f i a t i o n s :

Actua tor : 21-8173 0 .0201 ' MB Body: 07-3415 0.0 62 x 0. 02 0 VT

Stem Ga sk et : 05-0310 Buna D i p Tube: 09-3530

0.060

Spring: 06-6010

SS

Stem: 0.4-1230 0.020 CUP: 12-8700

Formula 5887-80-4

Mater

i

1

s

:

V e r s a t y l - 4 2

DC-193 S i 1

i

one

DC-556 S i

1

i one

G1 y c e r i ne

C i

t o f 1ex-2

Monamid 716

Sunarome OMC

Frag rance

Ethano l , Anhydrous

Pro p e l l a n t A -4 6

AMP-95

Aerosol Shaping Hairspray

Par ts/We i ah t

3 .7 5

0 . 9 6

0.10

0 .10

0.10

0 .10

0.20

0 .05

Q.S

64.64

30.00

V al ve : P r e c i s i o n

.018 stem

,018 x .013 body

.0181' FT Ac tu a to r

Spray

Rate:

0.56 g /sec

P r e p a r a t i o n :

Add a l c o h o l t o t h e t a n k . W h i l e m a i n t a i n i n g good a g i t a t i o n ,

s l o w l y a dd Ve rs a t y l -4 2 t o t h e vo r te x . Add AMP-95 a nd co n t i n u e

m i x in g u n t i l s o l u t i o n i s c om pl et e. Add r e ma in in g i n g r e d i e n t s

o f t h e con cen t r a te . When com p le te l y d i s s o l v ed and homogeneous,

f i l t e r and f i l l c o n c en t r at e t o t h e c an . Charge p r o p e l l a n t .

Formula 6258-07

SOURCE: Nat iona l S ta rch and Chemica l Co. : Suggested Formula t ions

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 267/553

Hair Care Products

245

Styling/Conditioning Mousse

I n g r e d i e n t s :

A F o r e s t a l l

B r i j 721

D o w Co rn i ng 929 Emuls ion

Wate r , de i on i zed

B G a f f i x VC-713

SD Alcohol 40

C Hydroca rbon Prope l lan t A -46

Procedure :

Heat (A ) t o 60C w i t h s t i r r i n g u n t i l u n i fo r m . Cool t o

Add (A ) t o ( E ) w i t h s t i r r i n g . Pack i n s u i t a b l e ae r os ol

c o n t a i n e r s and p r e s s u r i z e w i t h (C) a t

room

t e m p e r a t u r e .

Formula PC 8216

w/w

1 . 4 0

0.50

0 . 1 0

7 8 - 0 0

5.00

10 . 00

5 .0 0

40C.

Clear Gel Grooming Agent & Condi t ioner

I n g r e d i e n t s :

A

M i n e r a l o i l , M ar co l 70

B r i j 97

A r l a t o n e

G

Atlas G-3570

P r o p y l e n e g l y c o l

Sorbo

E

Water , de i on i zed

Procedure :

Heat

( A )

t o 9OC and

( E )

t o 95C. Add ( 8 )

s t i r r i n g . Remove f ro m he a t and c o n t i n u e t o

c o o l s . When t h e m i x t u r e t u r n s c l e a r ( a b o u t

o r j a r s .

Y U

14.10

15.50

15.50

0 . 1 0

8 . 6 0

6 .90

39 .30

t o ( A) w i t h mo de ra te

s t i r as t h e m i x t u r e

65C) p o u r i n t o t u b e s

Hair Straightening Cream

I nar edi n t s :

A

G l y c e r o l m o n o s t e a r a t e

B r i j 35

S t e a r y l a l c oh o l

M in er al o i l

Water

* P r e s e r v a t i v e

C Sod ium hydrox ide

Water

D *Perfume

q . s . t h es e i n g r e d i e n t s .

Procedure :

Heat ( A) t o 60C and

( E )

t o 62C. Add (B) t o (A ) w i t h c o n s t a n t

a g i t a t i o n u n t i l c o o l . Add ( C ) . M i x t h o r o u g h l y . Add

(D).

Formula HC-17

B

Sodium l a u r y l s u l f a t e

w/w

20.00

2 .0 0

5 . 0 0

5 .0 0

1 . o o

40.00

3 .5 0

23 .50

SOURCE: I C 1 S u r f a c t a n t s : S ug ge st ed F o r m u l a t i o n s

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 268/553

246 Cosmetic and

Toiletry

Formulations

Styling Mousse

X22176-106 (Hydroalcoholic)

Co n ce n t ra te :

D i s t i l l e d w at er q . s . * t o 100

Eastman

AQ

55s po lymer 8 . 0

Myvatex T e x t ur e L i t e e m u l s i f i e r 2 .0

Monamid 150 ADD 1

. o

M yv ate x 60 e m u l s i f i e r 0 . 3

SDA-40C alcohol 2 0 . 0

Fragrance q . s . *

C i t r i c a c i d q . s . *

Procedure :

1 . Heat Eastman AQ 55s and w a te r t o 80-85C w i t h m i x i n g u n t i l

2 . Coo l t o room tempera tu r e .

3 .

S l o w l y add M yvatex T ex t ur e L i t e w i t h h ig h- sp ee d a g i t a t i o n .

4. When u n i f o r m , add Myv atex 60 and Monamid

150

ADD.

5. Sl ow ly add SDA-40C a lc oh o l .

6 . Add f rag rance .

7. A d j us t pH t o 6 :5 -7.0 w i t h c i t r i c a c i d .

8 . A e r o so l f i n a l c o n c e n t r a t e a t 5. 23 g/mL o f A46 p r o p e l l a n t

( A e r o p r e s s ) .

*q. s .

=

q u a n t i t y s u f f i c i e n t

t h e p oly mer i s c o mp le t e l y d i sp e rs e d i n t h e w a te r .

Care sh o uld be t a ke n when m ix i n g t o a vo i d a e ra t i o n .

Sty ling Mou sse

X22176-107 (Alcohol-Free)

Co n ce n t ra te :

w

D i s t i 1 e d w at er q . s . * t o 100

Eastman AQ 55s po lymer 8 .0

M yvatex T e x t u re L i t e emu1 s i

f i

e r 5 . 5

Monamid 150 ADD 1 . 0

M yva te x 6 0 e m u l s i f i e r

0 .3

P r e s e r v a t i v e q . s . *

F rag rance q . s .

C i t r i c a c i d q . s . *

Procedure :

1 . Heat Eastman AQ 55s and w at er t o 80-85C w i t h m i x i n g u n t i l t h e

2 . Cool t o room t em p e r at u r e a nd add p r e s e r v a t i v e .

3 . S l o w l y add M yvatex T e x tu r e L i t e w i t h h i gh -s pe ed a g i t a t i o n .

4. When un i f o r m , add Myvatex 60 and Monamid 150 ADD.

5. Add f ragrance.

6 . A d j u s t pH t o 6.5 -7.0 w i t h c i t r i c a c i d .

7 . A e r os ol f i n a l c o n c e n t r a t e a t 5 . 23 g/mL o f A46 p r o p e l l a n t

(Ae ro p re ss ) .

SOURCE: Eastman Chem ic al Co. : Suggested Formula t ions

* q . s . = q u a n t i t y s u f f i c i e n t

p oly mer i s c o mp le t el y d i s pe r se d i n t h e w a t e r.

C ar e s ho u l d be t a k e n when m i x i n g t o a v o i d a e r a t i o n .

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 269/553

Hair Care

Products

247

Water-Based Hair pray

X21980-057 (Pu m p)

Phase

A :

D i s t i l l e d wa te r

Eastman

AQ

55s

po lymer

Phase

0 :

Germal l

I 1

d i a z o l i d i n y l u re a

Methy lpa raben

Phase

C :

L u v i s k o l VA 73W

P V P / V A

copo lymer - -50% so l ids

Procedure :

1 . Heat Phase A t o 85C.

2. W i t h m i x i n g , h o l d a t 80-85C f o r 15 m i n u t e s .

3. Cool t o 60C, add Phase

6 ,

and mix u n t i l d i s s o lv e d .

4. Cool t o 40C and add Phase

C .

5 . Add w at er l o s t d u r i n g h e a t i n g .

6 . M ix u n t i l u n i fo r m; f i l t e r and package.

pH: 6 .0+-1.0

Water-Based Hair Spray

X21980-058 (Aerosol )

Phase

A :

D i s t i l l e d w ate r

Eastman AQ 38s polymer

Phase

0 :

Germal l I 1 d i azo1i i n y l u re a

Methy lpa raben

Phase

C :

L u v i s k o l VA 73W P V P /V A copo lymer - -50% so l ids

Phase

D :

Dymel A d i m e t h y l e t h e r

X

9 0 .4

5 . 0

0 . 3

0 . 3

4 . 0

rn

6 0 .4

5 .0

0 . 3

0 . 3

4 .0

3 0 .0

Procedure :

1 . Heat Phase A t o 85C.

2 .

When mi x i ng , h o l d a t 80-85C f o r 15 m in u te s .

3. Cool t o 60C, add Phase B, and mix u n t i l d i s so l v ed .

4. Cool t o 40C and add Phase C .

5 .

Add w at er l o s t d u r i n g h e a t i n g .

6 . Add phase D a t room tempera tu re .

7 . M ix u n t i l u ni fo rm ; f i l t e r and package.

8. A g i t a t e ae r os o l c o n t a i n e r t o e ns ur e s o l u t i o n

o f

p r o p e l l a n t .

SOURCE:

Eastman Chemical Co,: Suggested Formula t ions

pH: 6.0+-1.0

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 270/553

248

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Wheat Germ Foaming Conditioner

Wei a h t .

Mackam 35 (Cocamidopropy l Be ta i ne ( V ia G l yc er id e) 10 .0

Mackal ene 116 (Cocami dop rop yl Di me thy l ami ne La c t at e) 8 . 0

Mac kale ne 716 (Wheat Germamidopropyl Di met hy lam i ne

L a c t a te) 1 . o

Nat roso l 250

HHR

0 . 7

M a cks ta t DM (DMDM Hyd a n to i n ) q s

Water, Dye, Fragrance

q s

t o 1 00 .0

Procedure :

1 .

C o m p le t e ly h y d r a t e N a t r o s o l .

2 . Add f i r s t t h r e e components and h ea t t o

40

degrees

C .

3 . B le nd u n t i l c l e a r .

4 .

Add re ma in in g components and c o o l .

Natural Lipid Styl ing Mousse

Wei a h t ,

PVP/VA E335 4 .5

SDA A lco h o l 2 1 .5

Mackpro NLP (Q uat ern i um-79 Hy dr o ly ze d Animal P r o t e in )

( N a t ur a l L i p i d P r o t e i n ) 4 . 0

De ion ize d Water , Frag ranc e, Dye q s t o 100 .0

Procedure :

1 .

Combine components and b l en d u n t i l c l e a r .

2 . P r e s s u r i ze w i t h s u i a b l e p r o p e l 1 a n t

Pump Type Hair Spray

Resyn 26-1

31

4

Wei g h t ,

6 . 0

Mackpro NLP (Quatern ium-79 Hyd ro ly zed An imal P r o t e i n )

De io n ize d Water 7 . 6

( N at u ra l L i p i d P r o t e i n ) 1

. o

Eth a n o l , F ra g ra n ce

q s

t o 10 0. 0

Procedure :

1 . Dis so l ve Resyn 26-1314 i n a l co h o l .

2 . Add re m a in i n g components a nd b l e n d u n t i l c l e a r .

SOURCE:

Mc In ty re Group L t d . : Pe rsona l Care Fo rmula ry

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 271/553

Hair Care Products 249

55%

VOC Aerosol Hair Spray

I n g r e d i e n t s :

Lovocry l 47

AMP

De ion i zed Water

Anhydrous Ethanol, SDA-40

Fragrance

P r e s e r v a t i v e

DME

Cloud P o i n t : <-35C

Val ve : Se aqu ist V alv e NS-34

Stem: 0. 01 3

Gaske t :

B

Cup: Regu

Code

S p r i n g :

0

Body: Cap

Vapor Tap

Dip Tube:

A c t u a t o r :

P a r t s by Wei q h t

8 . 0 0

1 .38

35.62

22.00

q.s.

9 , s .

33 .00

t y l 0 .042 T H K . Code:

5 0 1

a r , Epoxy to p , Lamina te Bot tom, Dimp led ,

1610

020

ss

1 a r y

0 . 0

13

0.040' '

E x c el 200 M i s t y 0 .0 16 M i s t y

P re p a ra t i on :

a g i t a t i o n , s l o w ly s i f t i n L ov oc ry l 47. M ix u n t i l d i s so lv e d .

F i l t e r and

f i l l ,

t h e n c har ge w i t h p r o p e l l a n t .

Formula 7625:638

D i s s o l v e AMP i n w a te r and e t h a n o l . Whi l e m a i n t a i n i n g good

80 VOC Non -Aero so l Hair Spray

Th is 80% VOC non-aeroso l h a i r sp ra y ha s a n a tu ra l f e e l a nd

e x c e l l e n t d r y i n g t i m e w i t h a f i n e , m i s t y sp ra y.

I n g r e d i e n t s :

L o vo c ry l -4 7

NaOH

D C

193

d l -Pa n th e n o l

C i t r o f l e x - 2

De ion ize d Water

Anhydrous Ethano l ,

SDA-40

Pa r t s by Wei q h t

5 . 0 0

0 . 4 0

0 . 3 0

0 2 1

0 .2 0

13 .89

80 . 00

V a l v e S p e c i f i c a t i o n : Calmar Mark I 1

P r e p a r a t i o n

D i

ss o l ve NaOH i n wate r and e than o l . Whi l e mai n t a i n i ng good

a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y s i f t i n L ov oc ry l - 47 . When s o l u t i o n i s c om ple te ,

add r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s and m i x w e l l u n t i l homogeneous. F i l t e r

and f i l l .

Formula 7577-65

SOURCE: Na t i on a l S t a r ch and Chemical C o . : Suggested Formulas

A c t u a t o r : WTS Head

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 272/553

250

Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations

80% VOC Hair Spray

I n g r e d i e n t s :

Amp homer

AMP

C i

r o f 1 ex-2

Monamid 716

G1 y c e r i ne

d l P an th en ol

S ol u l an-75

Neo-He l iopan

A V

Anhydrous Ethano l ,

Pr op el 1 an t 152A

N-butane

SDA-40

P a r t s b v W e i gh t

5 .00

0 .8 2

0.30

0 .2 0

0.10

0.10

0 .1 0

0 . 0 5

55.00

13.33

25.00

V a lv e S p e c i f i c a t i o n s : P r e c i s i o n V a lv e C or p.

Stem: 04-1215 .016 D i p Tube: 09-2010

Stem Gas ket: 05-0350 B u ty l Ac tu at or S t y l e : 21-8146 Kosmos

Spring: 06-6010 SS O r i f i c e S i ze : ,025 MB Concave

Body: 07-7970 .016 LD M ou nt in g Cup: 32-7300-62 F l a t , Epon

T/B Dimp led F u l l Bond

P r e p a r a t i o n :

s l o w l y s i f t i n Amphomer. When s o l u t i o n i s co m plete , add re m a in i n g

i n g r e d i e n t s and m ix u n t i l homogeneous. F i l t e r , f i l l and charge

w i t h p r o p e l l a n t s .

Formula 7924:28

D i s s o l v e AMP i n e t ha n o l. W h i le m a i nt a i n i n g good a g i t a t i o n ,

55% VOC Aerosol Hair Spray

In g r e d i en s ;

L o vo c ry l

AMP

R h o d o r s i l O i l s 70041 V O .65

SDA-40

D I Water

Anhydrous Ethano l ,

P ro p e l 1a n t DME

V a l

v i

ng Speci

f

i

a t

Se a q u i s t NS 34

S t e m O r i f i c e : 0

G a s k e t : B u t y l 0 .

on8

:

P a r t s b v Weight

5 .00

0 .89

1 . o o

38.11

22.00

33.00

01

3

042 Thk. Cod e: 501

Cup: R eg ul ar , Epoxy Top, Lam ina te Bottom, Dimpled, Code: 1610

Sp r i n g : 0 .0 2 0 SS

Vapor Tap: 0 .013

Tub ing

I D :

0.040

Ac tu a t o r : Exce l 1 200 M i sty/O. 106 M i s t y

D i s s o l v e AMP i n et h a no l and w a t e r. W h i le m a i n t a i n i n g g ood

P r e p a r a t i o n :

a g i t a t i o n , s l o w ly s i f t i n L o v oc r y l . When s o l u t i o n i s complete,

add Rh o d o rs i l O i l s 7 0041 VO .65 and mix u n t i l homogeneous.

F i l t e r and f i l l - c h a r g e can w i t h p r o p e l l a n t .

Formula 7746-137

SOURCE: N a t i o n a l S t a r c h and Chemical

Co

: Suggested Formulas

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 273/553

Hair Care

Products

251

80% VOC Hair Spray

Resyn 28-2930

Amphomer LV-71

AMP

C i

r o f l e x - 2

Monamid 716

G l y c e r i n e

Pantheno l

S ol u l an-75

Neo-He1

i

pan A V

Anhydrous Ethanol, SDA-40

Prop e l 1ant 152A

N-butane

Frag rance

Cloud P o i n t : <-35C

3 .00

0.81

0 .44

0.30

0.20

0 .10

0 .10

0 .10

0 .05

55.00

14.90

25.00

g s

Va l ve: P r e c i s i o n Va l ve Corp.

Stem: 04-121 5 .01 6

Stem Gasket: 05-0350 B u t y l

Body: 07-7 970 .016 LD

Moun t ing Cup: 32-7 300- 62/F lat , Epon T/B Dimple d F u l l Bond

D i p Tube: 09-2010

Ac tu a t or S t y l e : 21-8146 Kosmos

O r i f i c e S i z e : .025 ME3 Concave

Spring: 06-6010 ss

Form ul a 7318-93

High Humidity Hair Spray

I n g r e d i e n t s :

Resyn 28-2913

AMP

C r o t e i n AD Anhydrous

Frag rance

Anhydrous Ethanol, SDA-40

Pro pel 1ant A-46

DC- 190

P a r t s

by

Wei s h t

2 .50

0 .24

0.20

0 .20

71 .8 6

25.00

Q . S .

V a l v e : P r e c i s i o n

Stem: 0.018 (#04-1220 )

Stem Ga sk et : Buna (#OS-0310)

S p r i n g : SS (#06-6010)

Mou nt ing Cup: F l a t , Epon Top/Bottom, Dimpled (#12-7100)

Actuator: 0 .018 ' ' FT (#01-1836)

D i s s o l v e AMP i n anhydrous et ha no l , SDA-40. Sl ow ly add Resyn

Body: 0.01 8 x 0.013 V T (#07-0131)

P r e p a r a t i o n :

28-2913 t o t h e s o l u t i o n w h i l e m a i n t a i n i n g good a g i t a t i o n . Add

re m a in i n g i g re d i e n t s a nd m i x u n t i 1 homogeneous. F i 1 e r and

i

1 c o n c e n t r a t e . C harge p r o p e l l a n t .

Formula 6472:103

SOURCE: Na t i on a l S ta rc h and Chemica l Corp . : Suggested Formulas

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 274/553

252

Cosmetic and T oi le tv Formulations

80% VOC Aerosol Shaper Hair Spray

I n a r e d i e n t s : P a r t s by Wei s h t

Amphomer LV-71 3.50

AMP Regu lar 0 .60

Armeen DM 18D 0.25

C i r o f

1

e x 2

0.20

Monamid 716 0. 20

So l u la n 75 0 .10

Neo Hel iopan AV 0 .05

V a r i o n C ADG LS 0.20

Dei on i zed Water 14.90

Anhydrous E th an o l, SDA-40 50.0 0

N-butane 11 . o o

DM

E 19.00

V al ve S p e c i f i c a t i o n s : P r e c i s i o n V al ve

Stem: 0.016' ' (04-1215)

Stem Gasket: B u t y l (05-0350)

S p r i n g : SS (06-6010)

Moun t ing Cup: F l a t , Epon T/B Dimpled F u l l Bond

Actuator: Kosmos

MB

Concave 0.025' ' (21- 8146 )

D i s s o l v e AMP Regular and Armeen

DM 1ED

i n w at er and e t h a n o l .

Body: 0.016'' LD (07- 7970 )

P r e p a r a t i on :

W h i l e m a i n t a i n i n g good a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y s i f t i n Amphomer LV-71.

When s o l u t i o n i s c om p le t e, add r e m a i n in g i n g r e d i e n t s a nd m i x

w e l l u n t i l homogeneous. F i l t e r and f i l l .

Formul a 8002 :183

High Solids 80% VOC Hair Spray

I n g r e d i e n t s : P a r t s by Weight

Lo vo cr y l 47 10.00

AMP

1 .73

C i r o f 1ex-2 0.20

Monamid 716 0. 15

G1 y c e r i ne 0.10

Pantheno l 0 .10

Dei on i zed Water 7 .72

Anhydrous Ethano l ,

S D A - 4 0

50. 00

N-butane 12.00

DME

18.00

Frag rance

q . s .

Va l ve: P r e c i s i o n Va l ve Corp.

C lo u d Po in t : (-35C

Stem: 04-1215 0.01 6 Gas ket: 05-0350 B u t y l

Cup: 32-7300-62 F l a t , Epon T/B, Dimpled, F u l l Bond

Vapor Tap: None D i p Tube: 09-2010 0.12 2

A c t u a t o r : 0 . 0 1 6 MB Concave De l ta

Spr ing: 06-6010 SS Body: 07-7970 0. 01 6 LD

P r e p a r a t i o n :

a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y s i f t i n L o v oc r y l 47. When d i s s o l v e d , add

r e m a in i n g i n g r e d i e n t s and m i x u n t i l homogeneous. F i l t e r and

f

i

1 , t h e n ch a rg e

w i t h

p r o p e l

1

a n t s .

SOURCE:

N a t i o n a l S t a r c h and Chemical Co.: Suggested Formulas

D i

sso l ve AMP

i

water and e tha no l . W h i 1e mai n t a i n i ng good

Formula 7625:95

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 275/553

Section VII

Lot ions

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 276/553

254 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

After Exercise

ody

Lotion

T h i s r e f r e s h i n g l o t i o n i s an e x c e l l e n t c a r r i e r f o r f ra gr an ce s

and w i l l p r o v id e m o i s t u r i z i n g a l o ng w i t h a s k i n smo oth ing e f f e c t .

P a r t I :

Water

Carbomer 940

T r i et ha no l ami ne (99%)

P a r t 1 1 :

Water

Phosphol i i d SV

SD3A Alcohol

P a r t 1 1 1 :

Pheny l D imeth icone

T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e ( Co s me ti c W h i t e )

% bv Weiaht

51 -6 5

0.25

0 . 4 0

30.00

1

. o o

15.00

1 .50

0.20

Procedure :

t h e Carbomer 940 i s d i s s o l v e d , ad d t r i e t h a n o l a m i n e . I n a

s e p a r a t e c o n t a i n e r , m i x w at er w i t h P h o s p h o l ip i d SV and hea t

t o 65C w i t h m i x i ng . When d i s so l ve d , coo l t o 30-35C th en add

SD3A a l co ho l B lend P a r t I 1 t o I m i x i n g we1 1 , and p a r t I 1 1

as a s l u r r y and b l en d t o ge t he r u n t i l a u n i fo r m w h i t e l o t i o n

i s o b t a i ne d . Add c o l o r , f r a g r an c e and p r e s e r v a t i v e a s r e q u i r e d

and package.

S l o w l y a dd Carbomer 940 t o wa t er w i t h good a g i t a t i o n . A f t e r

Therapeutic Humectant Lotion

P a r t A :

Phosphol i d

SV

G1 y c e r i n

T i 02

Water

Methy l Paraben

P a r t B:

Stea re th -2

H e x y l L a u r a t e

C12-Cl5 Alcohol Benzoates

D im et hic on e and T r i m e t h y l s i l o x y s i l i c a t e

Propy l Paraben

% bv Weiaht

1 . 7

15.0

0 . 5

7 2 . 6

0 . 2

3 . 3

3 . 0

2 . 0

1 . 5

0 .2

Procedure:

Combine phases

A

and B s e p a r a t e l y w i t h h e a t i n g t o 65C.

Homogenize B i n t o A f o r a s u f f i c i e n t t i m e t o e nsu re good

e m u l s i f i c a t i o n . S t i r c o o l t o 45C, add f r ag r an c e , and pa cka ge .

Comment

8 :

T h is s mooth p o ur ab le l o t i o n p r o v i d es i n s t a n t r e l i e f o f d r y ,

chapped s k i n and p ro v i d es a gene rous amount o f e m o l l i e n t s and

g l y c e r i n . The u se of Phosphol i d SV e l i m i n a t e s any g r e a s i n es s

and l ea v e s t h e s k i n w i t h an e le g a nt a f t e r f e e l .

SOURCE:

Mona I n d u s t r i e s , I n c . : S ug ge st ed F o r m u l a t i o n s

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 277/553

Lotions

255

Alcoholic Milk Lotion

( 0 )

S t e a r i c A c id

C e t y l A l c o h o l

I s o p ro p y l M y r i s t a t e

G l yc e r y l M onos tea ra te ( S e l f Emu1 s i y i ng Type)

P o l y o x ye t h y le n e ( 2 0) C e t y l E t h e r

Methyl Paraben

(W) Ajidew N-50

Pr op yl ene G1 y c o l

Water

( E ) E t h y l A l c o h o l

Procedure:

1 .

Heat

( 0 )

and

( W )

t o 80C.

2 . Add (W)

t o (0 )

s lo w ly w i t h a g i t a t i o n .

3 . Cool t o 50C w i t h s t i r r i n g and add ( E ) .

4 . F i n i s h m i x i n g a t 35-40C.

pH: 5.1

V i s c o s i t y : 270 c ps

Milk Lotion

0) i q u i d P a r a f f i n (#70)

P a r a f f i n Wax (mp 42-44C)

C e t y l A l c o h o l

S o r b i t a n M o n os t ea r a te

Po l yoxye thy l ene (20 ) So rb i t a n M onoo l ea te

T ocophe ro l Ace ta te

W )

A j i dew T - 5 0

Water

P r e s e r v a t i v e

Procedure :

1. Heat

0)

nd

( W )

t o 80C.

2 . Add (W)

t o (0 )

w i t h a g i t a t i o n .

3 . C ool t o 42C w i t h s t i r r i n g .

pH: 6 . 2

V i s c o s i t y : 25,000 c p s

SOURCE:

A j i nom o to USA, I n c . : Suggested Formulat ions

2 . 0

1 . o

2 . 0

1 . 1

1 . 9

q . s .

3 .0

5 . 0

74.0

10.0

31 .6

4.5

4 . 5

1 . 8

2 . 8

0 .2

4 .0

50.5

0 . 1

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 278/553

256 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Alpha Hydroxy Acid Lotion

R e s u l t i n g p ro d uc t i s a h i g h l y abs orbe nt l o t i o n t h a t c an be

d is pe ns ed f r om a f l e x i b l e t u b e o r s o f t b o t t l e . The a lp h a hy dr ox y

a c i d (AHA) c on ta in ed i n t h i s f or mu la i s b u f f e re d l a c t i c a c i d

w i t h a use l e v e l o f a p p r o x im a t e l y 10%. The f o r m u l a t i o n u t i l i z e s

a c a t i o n i c and n o n i o n ic e m u l s i f i c a t i o n system c o n s i s t i n g o f

Lexemul 561, Lexemul AR and Lexamine 5-13. The c a t i o n i c Lexa-

m in e S-13 enhances t h e s u b s t a n t i v i t y o f t h e f o r m u l a t i o n a nd

may a c t as an a u x i l i a r y AHA b u f f e r . T he p r o d u c t p ro d uc es mi n-

i m al w h i t e n i n g d u r i n g r u b - o ut

.

A . Deion ized Water

G l y c e r i n

USP

(99 .7%)

Methy lpara ben (Lexg ard M)

2 ,4 -D ich lo ro benz y l A lc oh o l (Myac ide SP)

L a c t i c A c i d USP (88%)

67.42

3 .00

0 .20

0 .20

0.60

B . Gl yc er y l S t ea ra te (and) PEG-100 S te ar a t e (Lexemul 561) 3 .00

G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e ( a n d) S t e a r a mi d o e t hy l D i e t h y l ami ne

(Lexemul AR) 1.25

Stearami dop rop y l D imeth y l ami ne (Lexami ne 5-13) 0 .50

Ce ty l A l c oh o l (Ado1 52) 0 .50

Capry l i /Ca pr i c T r i g l yc e r i d e (Lexo l GT-865) 8 .00

I s o b u t y l S te a r a t e ( L e xo l B S ) 1 . o o

Propy lparaben (Lexgard

P )

0.10

C .

L a c t i c Ac id USP (88%)

Sodium L a c ta te (P ur as al S/SP 60%)

5.90

8 .33

Procedure :

1 . Combine sec t ion

" A " .

Beg i n he a t i ng t o 75-80C.

2.

Combine sec t ion B . H ea t t o 80-85C w i t h c o n s t a n t s l o w

a g i t a t i o n .

3. When sect ions " A " and B ar e homogeneous and a t t h e des ig -

na ted t em pera tu res , s l o w l y add B t o " A " . M ix w i t h r a p i d

a g i t a t i o n f o r 5 m in ut es t h e n be g in c o o l i n g .

4. Reduce m i x i n g s peed d u r i n g c o o l i n g t o p r e v e n t v o r t e x i n g .

5 .

A t

40-5OC, add s e c t i o n

"C"

t o s ec t i on s

" A B " .

ch i s homogeneous and a t 35-40C ad j u s t f o r wa te r

. When t h e ba

7 . M i x t o 30C.

8 . Ad ju s t f i n a

L a c t a t e , a s

l o s s .

SOURCE: I n o l e x

pH t o 3 .5 0- 3. 75 w i t h L a c t i c A c i d o r Sodium

r e q u i r e d .

Chemical Co.

:

F o r m u l a t i o n

398-156-1

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 279/553

Lotions 257

Alpha Hydroxy Acid Lotion

R e s u l t i n g p r od u c t i s a l o t i o n t h a t c o u l d be d is pe ns ed f r om

a f l e x i b l e t u b e o r f l e x i b l e b o t t l e . The al ph a h yd ro xy a c i d (AHA)

c on ta in ed i n t h i s f o rm u la i s b u f f e r e d l a c t i c a c i d w i t h a use

l e v e l o f a pp ro xim at el y 10%. T h i s f o r m u l a t i o n u t i l i z e s a c a t i o n i c

and n o n i o n i c e m u l s i f i c a t i o n s ys te m c o n s i s t i n g o f Lexemul 561

and Lexamine S-13. The c a t i o n i c Lexamine S-13 enhances t h e

s u b s t a n t i v i t y o f t h e f o r m u l a t i o n and may a c t as an a u x i l i a r y

AHA b u f f e r . T he p rodu c t p roduces m i n i ma l wh i t e n i n g du r i ng

r u b - o u t .

A . Deion ized Water

G1 y c e r i n USP (99 .7 )

H y d r o x y e t h y l c e l l u l o s e ( C e l l o s i z e PP-4400-H)

6. Methy lparaben (Lexgard M)

2 ,4 -D i ch l o robenzy l A l coho l (M yaci de SP)

L a c t i c A c i d USP (88%)

68.50

3 .00

1 - 0 0

0 . 2 0

0 .20

0 .60

C . G ly ce ry l S t ea ra te (and) PEG-100 S te ar a t e (Lexemul

561)

2 . 0 0

Steara mi do pr op yl Dim eth yl ami ne (Lexami ne S-13) 1 . o o

Ce ty l A l c oh o l (Ado1 52)

0 . 5 0

C a p ry l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e ( L e x o l GT-865) 7 . 00

I s o b u t y l S t e a r a t e ( Le xo l B S )

2.00

Propy lparaben (Lexgard P) 0 .10

D .

L a c t i c A c i d (88%)

Sod ium Lac ta te (Purasa l S / S P 60%)

5 .90

8 . 0 0

Procedure:

1 .

Combine sec t ion

" A " .

Beg i n h ea t i n g t o 75-80C.

S i f t

Hydrox-

y e t h y l c e l l u l o s e i n t o v o r t e x i ng w a te r .

2 .

When sect ion " A " i s homogeneous, add se c t i o n 6 t o s e c t i o n

" A " . C o n ti n ue a g i t a t i o n . C o n ti n ue h e a t i n g t o 7 5-80C.

3 . Combine sec t ion "C " . Hea t t o 80-85C w i t h cons tan t s l ow

a g i t a t i o n .

4. When sect ions "AB" & ' IC" a re homogeneous and a t t h e d es ig -

na ted t em pera tu res , s l o w l y add

"C"

t o " A B ' q . M ix w i t h r a p i d

a g i t a t i o n f o r 5 min ute s t h en b e g in c o o l i n g .

5 . Reduce m i x i n g speed d u r i n g c o o l i n g t o p r e v e n t v o r t e x i n g .

6 . A t 40-50C, add s e c t i o n "D" t o s ec t i on s "ABC" .

a d j u s t f o r

. When t h e b a t c h i s homogeneous and a t 35-40C

w a t e r l o s s .

8 . M i x t o 3 0C.

9 . A d j u s t f i n a l pH t o 3 .5 0- 3. 75 w i t h L a c t i c Ac

L a c t a t e , as r e q u i r e d .

d o r Sodium

SOURCE:

I n o l e x Chemica l Co. : Formula 3 9 8 - 1 5 7 - 2

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 280/553

258

Cosmetic

and

Toiletry Formulations

Banana Hand Lotion

Water

Carbomer 934

Avocado O i l

Rosswax 573

Coconut O i l #76

Ross Jojoba O i l

TE A

Germaben I 1

Fragrance GK-17

GMS-SE

Pa r t s by Wei q h t

568. Ogr

2 . 0 g r

4. Ogr

1 6 . 0 g r

4 . Q g r

1 6 . 0 g r

4 .0g r

4 . Ogr

6 . 0 g r

q . s .

Procedure:

H ea t t h e wa t e r t o 60C u nd er a g i t a t i o n and s l o w l y a dd t h e

Carbomer 934. When t h e water i s f u l l y m ixed add th e 573, GMS,

Avocado O i l , Coconut O i l and Jojoba

O i l

t ha t have been hea ted

t o 65C i n se pa ra te k e t t l e . A s soon as the O i l Phase has been

mixed w e l l , add th e Germaben

I 1

and t he n t h e T E A unde r h i gh

a g i t a t i o n , t he n t h e f ra gr an ce . Cool t o 55C f o r f i l l i n g .

O/W

Lotion

Phase 1:

R o s s Wax 63-0412

Ross Wax 1641

M in e ra l Wax #9

Ross Wax 63-0212

Amerchol L-1 01

Ross Jo joba O i 1

GMS S E

Phase 2 :

T r i et ha no l ami ne

Pr op yl ene G1 y c o l

Water

Preservat ive Germaben I 1

Novarome DE-47 Fr ag rance

Procedure:

I n s e pa r at e k e t t l e s b r i n g Phase ( 1 ) and

( 2 )

t o 170F.

t em p er at ur e i s r ea ch ed add Phase ( 1 ) t o ( 2 ) w i t h a g i t a t

Cool t o 120F and package.

SOURCE: Frank B . R o s s C o . , I n c . : S ug ge st ed F o rm u l a t i o n s

%

1 . 6

1

o

2.1

1

. o

5 . 2

2 .1

2 .1

1 o

4.7

78 .2

1 . o

q . s .

When

on.

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 281/553

Lotions

259

Behenyl Hand Lotion

Crodac i d 8, t h a t p r o v id e g r e a t s t a b i l i t y ( 1 month a t 50C). Croda-

mol

PMP

h e lp s t o f o rm u la t e a n o n - o i l y l o t i o n w i t h smooth r u b i n .

T h i s l o t i o n f e a t u r e s t h e c o m b in a t i o n o f I n c r o mi n e BB and

I n a r e d i e n t s :

P a r t A :

I nc rom i ne

BB

(Behenami do pr op yl Di me th yl ami ne)

C rodac i d B (Behen ic Ac id )

Crodamol PMP (PPG-2 M y r i s t y l E the r P rop i ona te )

Dimeth icone

P a r t B :

Dei on i zed Water

P a r t C :

Propy l ene G l y co l ( and) D i azo1

i

i n y l U r e a

Methyl Paraben (and) Propyl Paraben

3.0

2 .5

20.0

3 . 0

70.5

and)

1

. o

Procedure:

Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t A w i t h m ix ng and h e a t t o 85-9OC.

Heat Par t B t o 85-QOC. Add Pa r t B t o P ar t A w i t h m i x i n g and c o o l

t o 45C. Add Par t C w i t h m i x i n g and c o o l t o d e s i r e d f i l l tempera-

t u r e .

N . A . T . C .

Approved

Formula SC-215

Velvet 44-Behenyl Lot ion

T h i s l o t i o n f e a t u r e s a u ni qu e c om bi na t i on o f e m u l s i f i e r s

( I n c r o m i n e BB and Crodac id 8 ) t h a t p r o v i de g re a t s t a b i l i t y

(3 months 13 50C) a nd l e av e a s o f t v e l v e t y f e e l on t h e s k i n .

Crodamol PMP h e l p s r e du c e t h e o i l i n e s s o f t h e m i n e r a l o i l and

promotes a smooth r u b i n .

I n o r e d i e n t s :

P a r t A :

Incro mi ne BB (Behenami do pr op yl Di me th yl ami ne)

C rodac i d B (Behen ic Ac id )

M i n e r a l O i l (7Ossu)

Crodamol

PMP

(PPG-2 M y r i s t y l E the r P rop i ona te

S i l i c o n e F l u i d (200 cp s)

DC

200

P a r t 8 :

Dei on i zed wat er

P a r t C :

Germaben

I 1

%

3.00

2.50

15.00

10 .00

1 . o o

67.50

1 . o o

-

Procedure:

Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t A w i t h m i x i ng and h ea t t o 85-9OC.

Hea t Pa r t

0

t o 85-9OC. Add Pa rt

B

t o P ar t A w i t h m i x i n g and c o o l

t o 40C. Add Pa r t C w i t h m i x i n g a n d cool t o d e s i re d

f i l l

tempera-

t u r e .

SOURCE: Croda I n c . : Suggested F o rm u l a t l ons

N.A.T.C. Approved

Formula SC-213

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 282/553

26 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Body Lotion

I n g r e d i e n t s :

Phase

A :

Pol y g l yc e ry l - 3 Methy l G1 ucose D i s t e ar a t e (Tego Care 450)

C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e s ( T eg o s of t CT)

O c t y l S t e a r a t e ( Te g o s o f t O S )

Phase 8 :

G l y c e r i n

Water

Phase C :

M i n e r a l O i l

Carbomer 941

Phase

D :

Sodium H y d r o x i d e ( 10 % s o l u t i o n )

Phase E

Fragrance

P r e s e r v a t i v e s

Procedure :

1 . He at t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f P hase A t o 80C.

2 . Heat t h e i n g r e d i e n t s

o f

Phase 8 t o 80C.

3 . Add A t o B o r B t o A w i t ho u t s t i r r i n g .

4 . S t i r .

36w w

2 . 0

6 . 5

5 . 7

3 . 0

8 1 . 4

0 . 8

0 . 2

0 . 4

Q . S .

Q . S .

5 . D i s p e r s e Carbomer i n t o t h e o i l / e s t e r a dd t o A/B. Ho mo gen ize .

6 . Cool t o 35-40C w i t h s t i r r i n g .

7 . Add Phase

D / E .

S t i r .

8 . M ix u n t i 1 v i s c o s i t y i s c o r r e c t ,

Emollient Lotion

O/W

Cold

Process

I n a r e d i e n t s :

Phase A :

PEG-25 G1 y c e r y l T r i o l e a t e (Tagat TO) 0 . 5

M i n e r a l O i l 4 . 0

I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e ( T e g o so f t P) 3 .0

P o l y g ly c e r y l - 4 I s o s t e a r a t e ( I s o l a n

G I

3 4 ) 1 . 5

C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e s ( T e g o s of t CT)

2 . 0

D i me t hi c on e ( A b i l 3 50) 0 . 2

Phase B :

Water 83.6

G1 y c e r i n 3 .0

P r e s e r v a t i v e

Q . S .

Phase C :

Carbomer 934 0 .3

M i n e r a l

O i l

1 . 2

Phase D :

NaOH (10% S o l u t i o n )

0 . 7

Procedure :

1 . Homogenize

A

+ B, o i l p a r t i c l e s i z e t l . 0 urn.

2. Add

C

and

D,

s t i r i n t e n s i v e l y f o r 3 0 m in u te s . T emp era tu re

o f

t he phases A , B, C , D : a r e 2 0 - 2 5 C

SOURCE: Goldschmidt

C h e m i c a l

C o .

:

Sugges ted Formu la t i ons

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 283/553

Lotions 261

Body Lotion

I n q r e d i e n t s :

Isohexadecane

M in er a l o i l

I s o s t e a r i c a c i d

Ar lamo l E

Cyc lometh icone

Xanthan gum

Water

Sorbo, s o r b i t o 1 s o l u t i on

A r l a tone 2121

* P rese rva t i e

*Perfume

*q . s a t h e s e g r e d i e n t s .

%w/w

9 . 0 0

5 . O O

3 .00

2 .00

1

. o o

0 . 1 0

73.90

2 .00

4 . 0 0

Procedure :

( C ) a t 75C w i t h v ig o ro us s t i r r i n g . Add ( A) w i t h v ig o ro u s s t i r -

r i n g

or

homogenizat ion. Add (D) and ( E ) u p o n c o o l i n g .

Heat C ) t o 8OC w i t h o cc a si on a l v i g o r o u s s t i r r i n g . Add ( B ) t o

Moisturizing Hand Lot ion

I n a r e d i e n t s :

A M in er al o i l

C R - 1 5 a l c o h o l s b e n z o a t e

J o j o b a o i 1

B Xanthan gum

C Water

P r o p y l e n e g l y c o l

A r l a tone 2121

D * P r e s e r v a t i v e

E

*Perfume

* q . s t he s e i n g r e d i e n t s .

8 . 0 0

7.00

5 . 0 0

0 . 1 0

70.90

4.00

5.00

Procedure :

(C)

a t 75C w i t h v ig or o us s t i r r i n g . Add (A) w i t h v ig o ro us s t i r -

r i n g o r h o m og e n iz a ti o n. Add ( D ) and ( E ) u p o n c o o l i n g .

SOURCE:

IC1

S u r f a c t a n t s : S ug ge st ed F o r m u l a t i o n s

Heat C ) t o 8OC w i t h o cc as io na l v i go r ou s s t i r r i n g . Add

( B )

t o

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 284/553

262

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Concentrated Alpha Hydroxy Acid Lot ion

R e s u l t i n g p r o d u ct i s a p ou r a bl e l o t i o n t h a t c o u l d be dis pe ns ed

f rom a g l as s o r r i g i d p l a s t i c b o t t l e . The f o r m u l a t i o n u t i l i z e s a

b u f f e r e d a l ph a h yd ro x y a c i d (AHA), L a c t i c A c i d , a t a u se l e v e l of

a p p ro x im a t el y 15%. The f o r mu l a u t i l i z e s a c a t i o n i c a nd n o n i o n i c

e m u l s i f i c a t i o n system c o n s i s t i n g o f L ex qu at

A M G - I S

and Lexemul

561. I n a d d i t i o n t o f u n c t i o n i n g as t h e p r i ma ry e m u l s i f i e r ,

Lexquat A M G - I S , a l s o enhances s k i n s u b s t a n t i v i t y . T h i s f orm-

u l a t i o n o f f e r s a h ig h l e v e l o f a c t i v i t y i n a b u f f e re d fo rm.

A .

B .

C .

D .

E .

w

Dei o n i zed Water 52 30

Methy lparaben (Lexgard M ) 0 . 2 0

2 ,4 -D i ch l o robenzy l A l coho l (M yaci de SP) 0.20

P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l USP 2.70

L a c t i c A c i d

USP (88%)

0.50

Hy dr ox ye th y l ce l l u l os e ( C e l l o s i z e QP-15,OOOH) 0 .50

I sos tea ram i dop ropy l

PG-Di

moni um Ch lo r i d e (Le xqu at

AMG-IS) 10.10

Gl yc er y l S t ea ra te (Lexemul 515) 1 .75

Gl yc er y l S t ea ra te (and) PEG-100 S t ea ra te (Lexemul

561 ) 3.40

Propy lene G l y co l D i c ap ry l a t e / D i ca p r a t e (Lexo l PG-865) 2 .50

Ce ty l A l coho l (Ado1 52) 0 .80

Jo j oba O i l ( Go ld en J o j o b a O i l ) 2 . 5 0

M y r i s t y 1 M y r i s t a t e ( C e ra p h yl 42 4) 0 . 8 5

Propy lparaben (Lexgard P ) 0.10

L a c t i c A c id USP (88%) 7.25

Sodium Lactate (Purasal S/SP 60%) 14.35

Procedure :

1 .

Combine sec t ion

" A "

h e a t i n g t o 80-85C. Use p r o p e l l e r m i x er

f o r a g i t a t i o n .

2. S p r i n k l e s e c t i o n t B v t i n t o s e c t i on ' l A " . I n c r e a s e m i x i n g sp eed

t o c r e a t e a v o r t e x d u r i n g a d d i t i o n , t h en s lo w t o h i g h es t

speed wh ich does n o t p roduce a vo r t ex .

3 When sect ions " A " and r tB1 ' a re homogeneous and a t t h e des ig -

n a t e d t e m p e r a t u r e s a d d s e c t i o n "C" t o s e c t io n s AB .

4 . Combine s e c t i o n I 'D" . H ea t t o 8 0-85C w i t h c o n t i n u o u s s l o w

m i x i n g .

5. When se ct io n s A8C and s e c t i o n

"DI '

a r e homogeneous and a t

t h e d e s i g i n a t e d te m pe ra tu r es , s l o w l y p ou r s e c t i o n

"D"

i n t o

S e c t i o n s l fABCt l . I n c r e a s e m i x i n g spe ed t o a h i g h s pee d.

M a i n t a i n a t 80-85C f o r 5 mi n ut e s, t h e n b e g i n c o o l i n g .

Slow m i x i n g s peed t o h i g h e s t speed p o s s i b l e t h a t w i l l n o t

c au se v o r t e x i n g.

m i x i n g and c o o l i n g .

6 . Add sec t i on "E " t o s ec t i on s "ABCD" a t 60-65C. Cont in ue

7 . A t 40-45C a d j u s t f o r w a t er l o s s .

8.

M ix b a t ch u n t i l i t reaches room tem per atu re.

9 . A d j u s t f i n a l pH t o 3. 60 -3 .8 0 w i t h L a c t i c A c id o r S odium

L a c t a t e , a s r e q u i r e d .

P h y s i c a l P r o p e r t i e s :

V i sc o s i t y : 2400 cPs

@

24C ( B r o o k f i e l d RVT,

T A

10 rpm)

pH: 3. 7 24C

SOURCE:

Inolex

Chemical

Co . :

F o r m u l a t i o n 398-99-2

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 285/553

Lo t ions

263

Deep Skin Cleansing Lotion

M a t e r i a l s : % bv Weigh t

1 . M i n e r a l O i l SUS 65/ 75 5 0 . 0

2. Amerchol L-101 3. 0

3 . Cerasyn t PA 3 .0

4. Tween 20 3 .0

5. S t e a r i c A c i d T . P . 1 . o

6 . P ropy lpa raben 0 .1

7 . Methy lparaben 0 .2

8 . Water (de i on i zed ) 38 .6

9. Borax

U . S . P .

0 . 5

10.Bentone

LT

r h e o l o g i c a l a d d i t i v e 0 . 3

11.Perfume 0.3

M a n u f a ct u r i ng D i r e c t i o n s :

1 . P a r t 1 - I n a s t a i n l e s s s t e e l v e s s e l , add it e ms 1 t h r o u g h 7

and h e at t o 75C. M a i n t a i n t h i s te m pe ra tu r e and s t i r s l o w l y

u n t i l e v e ry th in g

i s

i n s o l u t i o n . B r i n g te m pe r at ur e t o 60C.

2 . P a r t 2 - I n a s e p ar a te s t a i n l e s s s t e e l v e s s e l , add i t e m 8 and

hea t t o 60C. Add and d i ss o l ve i t em 9. Add i t e m 10 and mix

a t medium speed (1200 rpm) f o r abou t 20

m inu te s, o r u n t i l

c o m p l e t e l y d i sp e r se d , w h i l e m a i n t a i n i n g

tempe ra tu re a t 60C.

3 . P a r t 3-Add P a r t 2 t o P a r t 1 s l o w l y an d m i x t o g e t h e r .

4 . Co ol l o t i o n t o 50C an d add i t e m 1 1. S t i r s l o w l y t o room

Formula TS-105

tem pera tu re .

Hand Lotion

Mater 1s ?6 bv Wei qht

1 . Water 87.59

2 . T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e 0 . 4 2

3 . Propy lene G l y co l 4 .00

4. Methy lparaben

0.10

5. Bentone

L T

r h e o l o g i c a l a d d i t i v e 0 .80

6. Cera phyl 424 3.0 0

7. S t e a r i c A c i d T . P . 0.79

8 . P l u r o n i c F-127 1 .oo

9. G l y c e r y l M o n o s t e a r a t e 2 .00

10.Propy lparaben 0 .10

11.Perfume 0 . 2 0

M a n u f a ct u r in g D i r e c t i o n s :

1 . P a r t 1 - I n a s t a i n l e s s s t e e l j a c k e te d k e t t l e , add it em s 1

th ro ug h 4 and hea t t o 60C. Us i ng a homomixer a t ab out 1400

r p m ,

a dd i t e m 5 s l o w l y t o a v o i d lu mp s, an d m ix f o r 20 m i nu t e s

o r u n t i l homogeneous. I f foam de ve lop s, add a mi nu te amount

o f Ant i fo am 60 . Heat Pa r t 1 t o 78C.

2 . Pa r t 2 - I n a sepa ra te ves se l , add i t em s 6 t h r oug h 10 and hea t

t o 78C. M i x u n t i l com p l e te l y m e l t e d and homogeneous.

3 . M i x P a r t 2 s lo w ly i n P ar t 1 a t 78C us in g sweep b la des .

4. Co ol t o 50C. Add i tem

10,

m i x and coo l t o room tem pera tu re .

Formula TS-200

SOURCE: Rheox, Inc.: Suggested Formulat ions

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 286/553

264 Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations

Deep Moistur izing Lot ion

T h i s a f t e r - ba t h l o t i o n g i ve s t h e b e n e f i t s o f p o t e n t s k i n

c o n d i t i o n e r s whi l e e l i m i n a t i n g t h e t a c k in e s s a ss o ci at ed w i t h

l a n o l i n and p e t r o l a t u m t h ro u g h t h e u n i q u e e m o ll ie n c y p r o v i d e d

by Phosphol

i

i d EFA.

P a r t A :

Phosphol ip id €FA

S tea re th -21

Water

P a r t B :

S t e a r e t h - 2

Anhydrous Lano l in

P e t r o l a t u m

O c t y l do d e c y l M y r i s t a t e

C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l

D i meth i cone ( 1OOcS)

%

B Y Weiqht

4 .00

0 .40

82.00

1

. 6 0

1 . 5 0

3 . 0 0

2 .00

4 .00

1 . 5 0

Combine i n g r e d i e n t s i n b o t h phases s e p a r a t e l y a nd h e at t o

65C. Homogenize

( B )

i n t o (A) w i t h c on t i nu ed h e a t i n g u n t i l

s u f f i c i e n t l y m ix ed . S t i r - c o o l t o 45-50C, t h e n add f r a g r an c e ,

c o l o r , and p r e s e r v a t i v e as needed b e f o r e f i l l i n g .

Hand

and

Body Lotion

A s u p e r i o r p r o d u c t d e si gn e d f o r a f t e r - b a t h use on t r a d i t i o n -

a l l y d r y a re as s uch a s hands , e lbows and he e l s . Pho sph o l ip id

€FA

i s

s t r o n g l y s u b s t a n t i v e t ow ar ds s k i n p r o v i d i n g n on -g re as y

m o i s t u r i z i n g and a p le as an t a f t e r f e e l .

Pa r t A :

Phosphol

i

i d EFA

Water

P a r t :

S t e a r e t h - 2

L i g h t M i n e r a l

O i l

C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l

O c t y l d od e cy l M y r i s t a t e

Dimeth icone (1OOcS)

%

by Weiqht

4 .00

83

I 00

2 .00

4 . 0 0

3 . 0 0

2 . 5 0

1 . 5 0

Combine i n g r e d i e n t s i n b o t h phases s e p a r a t e l y a nd h ea t t o

6 5 C .

Homogenize

6 )

n t o ( A ) w i t h co nt i n u ed h ea t i ng u n t i l s u f f i c i e n t l y

m ix ed . S t i r - c o o l t o 45C. Add f r a g r a n c e , c o l o r , and p r e s e r v a t i v e

as needed and

f i l l .

SOURCE: Mona I n d u s t r i e s , I n c . : PHOSPHOLIPID EFA: Sugg es ted

F o r m u l a t i o n s

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 287/553

Lotions 265

Emollient Lotion

I l l u s t r a t e s

t h e use o f Veegum P ro magnesium aluminum

s i l i c a t e

as an emuls ion

s t a b i l i z e r and t h i c k e n e r . The f or mu la i s

des igned

t o s e r v e as a g u i d e f o r t h e de ve lo pm en t o f new p r o d u c t s o r t h e

improvement o f e x i s t i ng ones.

A

Veegum Pro 1.5%

Water

83 .8

B T r i et ha no l ami ne

0 . 1

G l y c e r i n

3 .5

C Marcol 130

3 . 6

P e t r o l a t u m

0 . 4

S t e a r i c a c i d

X X X

1 . 6

C e t y l a l c o h o l

1 . 5

Kessco G l yc er o l Monos teara te SE 1 . 4

A c e t u l a n

2 . 0

Dow Co rn in g 200 F l u i d

0.6

P r e s e r v a ti e q . s .

Heat th e wate r t o 70 t o 75C, then s lo w ly add th e Veegum PRO

Procedure:

w h i l e a g i t a t i n g a t maximum a v a i l a b l e s he ar . M i x u n t i l smooth.

Add B t o A w i t h s lo w a g i t a t i o n u n t i l s mooth. M a i n ta i n A / B a t

70 t o 7 5 C , h e a t C t o 75 t o 00C. Add

C

t o A/0 and m ix u n t i l c o o l .

C o n si s te n c y: Medium v i s c o s i t y l o t i o n .

Suggested Packaging: Squeeze o r pump b o t t l e .

Comments: Veegum PRO e f f e c t i v e l y t h i ck en s and s t a b i l i z e s

t h e l o t i o n , even a t e le va te d te mp er at ur es . T h is l o t i o n i s

a b so r be d r a p i d l y , l e a v i n g t h e s k i n s mooth a nd g r e a s e le s s .

Hand and

Body

Lotion

I l l u s t r a t e s t h e u se o f Veegum

PRO

magnesium a luminum s i l i c a t e

as an e mu ls io n s t a b i l i z e r and t h i c k e n e r . The f o r m u l a i s de si gn ed

t o s e r ve a s a g u i d e f o r t h e d ev elo pm en t o f new p r o d u c t s o r t h e

improvement o f e x i s t i n g ones.

A Veegum Pro 2.00

Water 70.75

G l y c e r i n 6.00

B Marcal 130 10.00

P e t r o l a t u m 4.00

A r l a c e l 165

5

. OO

Synchrowax A w l - C 1 .25

C

A l l a n t o i n

1

. o o

P r e s e r v a t i v e q . s .

Procedure:

Heat t h e w a te r t o 70 t o 75C, th en s l ow ly add t h e Veegum PRO

w h i l e a g i t a t i n g a t maximum a v a i l a b l e s h ea r. M i x u n t i l smooth.

Add g l y c e r i n e and m ix u n t i l u n i f o r m . H ea t

6 t o

75 t o 80C. Add

B t o A and m ix u n t i l c o o l . Add C and m ix u n t i l u n i f o rm .

C o n si s te n c y: Medium v i s c o s i t y l o t i o n .

Suggested Packag ing : Squeeze o r pump b o t t l e .

Comments: Veegum

PRO

e f f e c t i v e l y t h i c k e n s and s t a b i l i z e s

t h e e m ul si on e ven a t e l e v a t e d t e m p e ra t u re s . G l y c e r i n h e l p s

t o r a p i d l y h y dr a te d r y s k i n and t h e s e l e c t i o n o f o i l s and waxes

p roduces a smooth and non -g reasy f e e l . The a l l a n t o i n p r ov i d es

s o o t h in g r e l i e f f o r wounds, b u rn s, and s k i n p ro ble ms i n g e n e r a l .

SOURCE:

R . T . V a n d e r b i l t C o. , I n c , : F or mu la Nos. 417 & No. 4 2 0

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 288/553

266

Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations

European O/W Cleansing Lot ion

I n a r e d i e n t s :

A M in e r a l o i l

A r lamo l

E

B Ar l a tone 2121

P r o p y l e n e g l y c o l

G l y c e r o l

Water

C Carbomer 934 (3% s o l u t i o n )

D Sodium H y d ro x i d e (1 0% s o l u t i o n ) t o pH o f 6 . 5 - 7 .0

E *Perfume

*q . s .

t hese i g r e d i e n t s .

%

15.00

3 .00

2.00

1 .25

1 .25

72.50

5.00

Procedure :

D i sp e r se (C) i n 6 ) a t 75C w i t h mo de ra te s t i r r i n g . Heat ( A)

and add a t 75 w i t h v i g o r o u s s t i r r i n g . Homogenize d u r i n g a d d i t i o n

o f (A ) . S t i r v i g o r o u s l y u n t i l c o o l . Add ( 0 ) ar ou nd 50C. Add ( E )

a t be low 35C.

Water/Oil Cleansing Lot ion

I n q r e d i e n t s :

A M in er al o i l

Beeswax

Ceresin wax

Sorbo

A r l a c e l 1 8 6

Tween 80

B Water , de i on i zed

* P r e s e r v a t i v e

*q.

s

t h e s e i n g r e d i e n t s

15.00

0 .50

0.50

27.00

3 .00

0 . 5 0

53.50

Procedure:

moderate s t i r r i n g . S t i r t o 35C and add wa te r l o s t due t o evap-

o r a t i n.

SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : S ug ge ste d F o r m u l a t i o n s

Heat (A ) t o 70C. Heat (B ) t o 72C. Add 8 ) t o ( A ) s l ow l y w i t h

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 289/553

Lotions 267

Gentle Moisturizing Alpha Hydroxy Acid Lotion

R e s ul t i n g p ro d uc t i s a t h i x o t r o p i c l o t i o n w hich c an be

d is pe ns ed fr om a f l e x i b l e t u b e

or

s o f t p l a s t i c b o t t l e . The

p r od u ct u t i l i z e s a b l en d

o f

tw o a lpha hydroxy ac id s (AHA 'S) ,

and b u f f e r e d c i t r i c a c i d a t a combined u se l e v e l o f a p pr ox -

i m a t e l y 2 .5 %. T h i s p r o d u c t c o u l d b e u s ed as a d a i l y u se

moi s t u r i z i n g AHA p r o d u c t .

w

A . Dei on i zed Water 76.70

Methy lparaben (Lexgard

M)

0 .20

2,4 -D ich lo ro benz y l A lcoho l (Myac ide SP) 0 .20

Hex yl ene G1 y c o l 1

. o o

B . H y dr o xy et hy l c e l l u l ose ( C e l l o s i ze QP-15,OOOH) 1 . o o

C .

Iso s te ara mido pro py l PG-Dimonium C hl or id e

(L ex qu at AMG-IS) 2. 00

D.

Gl yc e r y l S t ea ra te (Lexemu l 515 ) 3 .00

G ly ce ry l S te ar at e (and) PEG-100 Ste ar a te (Lexemul 561) 4 .00

P ropy l ene G l yco l D i pe l a rgona te 2 .10

I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e (an d) I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e (an d)

I s o p r o p y l S t e a r a t e ( L e x o l 39 75) 1 . o o

Sesame O i l

2.00

Tocophero l (Cophero l 1300)

0 . 1 0

Propy lparaben (Lexgard P)

0 .10

E . Dei on i zed Water 4 .00

Mal

i

Ac i d (Granu l a r ) 1

.oo

Sodium C i t r a t e USP-FCC 1.60

Procedure:

1 . Combine s e c t i o n

" A "

h e a t i n g

t o

70-75C. Use a p r o p e l l e r m ixer

for

a g i t a t i o n .

2 . S p r i n k l e s e c t i o n

ftB19

i n t o s e c t i o n " A " . I n c r e a s e m i x i n g sp ee d

t o c r e a t e a v o r t e x d u r i n g a d d i t i o n , t he n s lo w t o h i g h es t

speed wh ich does no t p roduce a v o r te x .

3 . When sect ions ' A" &

' l B l l

ar e homogeneous and a t t h e de s i g-

n a t e d t e m p e r at u r e s a dd s e c t i o n

"C"

t o s e c t i o n s AB .

4 . Combine s e c t i o n D . Hea t t o 75-80C w i t h con t i nuous s l ow

m i x i ng.

5. When se ct io ns ABC and s e c t i o n 'ID a r e homogeneous and a t

t h e d e s i g n at e d t e m pe r a tu r e s, s l o w l y p ou r s e c t i o n D i n t o

s e c t i o n s "ABC' I . I nc rea se m i x i ng speed t o a h i g h speed. M ai n-

t a i n a t 80-85C for 5 m i nu t es , t h e n b e g i n c o o l i n g . Slow m i x i n g

speed t o h i g h e s t s peed p o s s i b l e t h a t w i l l n o t ca use v o r t e x i n g .

6 . Combine sec t ion

E and m ix u n t i l i t becomes a c l e a r s o l u t i o n .

7 . Add sec t i on E t o s e ct io n s

ABCD a t 60-65C. Co nt inu e m ix in g

and c o o l i n g .

8 . A t 40-45C a d j u s t f o r w a te r l o s s .

9 . M ix b a t ch u n t i l

i t

reaches 30-35C.

10. A d j u s t f i n a l pH t o 4 .0 0- 4. 10 w i t h a M a l i c A c i d s o l u t i o n , as

P h y s i c a l P r o p e r t i 8s:

r e q u i r e d

V i sc os i t y : 4,500 cPs 24C ( B r o o k f i e l d RVT, TA 10 rpm)

24 hour sample.

pn: 4.1 24c

SOURCE: I n o le x Chemica l Co. : F o r m u l a t i o n 398-87-3

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 290/553

268 Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations

Hand Lotion

I n g r e d i e n t s :

A I s o p r op y l p a l m i t a t e

O l e i c a c i d

S t e a r i c a c i d , t r i p l e p ressed

Atmul 84s

Sorbo

T r i e t ha no l ami ne

Water , de io n i ze d and

. l

p r e s e r v a t i v e

B A l c o h o l , SDA 40

Fragrance

%w/w

2 .00

2 . 0 0

2 .00

3 .20

2 .00

1 . o o

83.30

4 .00

0 .50

Procedure:

c o o l e d t o 45C. D i s s o l v e f r a g r a n c e i n t h e a l c o h o l . Add ( B ) t o ( A ) .

S t i r

t o i n s u r e th or ou gh a g i t a t i o n .

Heat ( A ) t o 95C. A g i t a t e u n t i l a m i l k y e m u ls i on forms and i s

Hand Lotion

I n g r e d i e n t s :

A L i g h t m in e r a l o i l

S t e a r i c a c i d

A c e t y l a t e d

1

anol

i

n

A r l a c e l 165

C e t y l a l c o h o l

S i l i c o n e f l u i d , 200 c s

Sorbo , So rb i t o 1 so l u t i on, USP

Methy l paraben

Propy l paraben

B Water

4.00

2 .00

3 .00

5.00

1 - 0 0

1

. o o

78.80

5.00

0 . 1 8

0 . 0 2

Procedure:

t i o n . C ool t o s e t p o i n t a nd ho mo gen ize .

Formula S K - 9

Heat (A ) t o 70C and (6) o 72C. Add ( B ) t o ( A ) w i t h a g i t a -

Hand Lotion

I n q r e d i e n t s :

A M in e r a l o i l

B r i j 52

B r i j 58

T r i et ha n ol ami ne

Water , de i on i zed

* P r e s e r v a t i v e

* q . s . t he s e i n g r e d i e n t s .

B Carboxy v i n y l po lymer , Carbopo l 934

3 0 . 0 0

5 .20

4.80

0 . 2 0

0 .20

59.60

Procedure:

a g i t a t i o n . S t i r u n t i l s e t .

SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : S ug ge st ed F o r m u l a t i o n s

Heat A ) t o 70C. Heat ( B ) t o 72C. Add ( B ) t o (A ) r a p i d

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 291/553

Lotions

269

Hand Lotion

I n g r e d i e n t s :

A Ar lamol

E

A r l a s o l v e 2 0 0 L

B r i j

72

S t e a r y l a l c o h o l

E W a t e r , d e i o n i z e d

Carbopol 934

C

Sod ium hydrox ide (10 W / W aqueous)

D * P r e s e r v a t i v e

*Perfume

*q. s .

t h e s e g r e d i e n t s .

%

8 . 0 0

1 . 7 0

2 . 8 0

2 . 0 0

8 5 . 1 0

0 . 2 0

0 . 2 0

Procedure :

72C and add ( B ) t o ( A ) w i t h p r o p e l l e r a g i t a t i o n . S lo w ly add ( C)

and i n c r e a s e sp ee d o f t h e a g i t a t i o n a s n e ed ed . A dd ( D ) and

rep1ace water 1o s t by e v a p o r a t i o n .

Formula AE-9

D i spe r se Carbomer i n wa te r and hea t

(B)

t o 70C. H e at ( A ) t o

Hand Lotion

I n g r e d i e n t s :

A S t e a r y l a l c o h ol 5 . 0 0

B r i j 7215 1 . 5 0

B Water , de i on i zed

Carbopol 934

9 2 . 8 0

0 . 2 0

C Sodium Hydrox ide

(10

W / W aqueous) 0.20

D D o w i c i l 200 0 . 1 0

E F rag rance 0 .20

Procedure :

p r o p e l l e r t y p e a g i t a t i o n . Add ( C ) . Add (D) when t h e te mp er at ur e

dr op s bel ow 50C. Add ( E ) below 40C. Add water t o compensate f o r

eva po r a t i o n . Hom ogen ize. Ad j us t pH t o

5 . 5 - 6 . 5

SOURCE:

I C 1 S u r f a c t a n t s : S ug ge st ed F o r m u l a t i o n s

Heat A ) t o 70C and ( B ) t o 75C. Add ( B ) t o ( A) s l o w ly u s i ng

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 292/553

27

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Hand Lotion

I n q r e d i e n t s :

A A r l a c e l 165, a c i d s t a b l e g .m .s .

C e t y l a l c o h o l

B S orb o, 70% s o r b i t o l s o l u t i o n U . S . P .

Water , de i on i zed

* P r e s e r v a t i v e

C * M i l d a c i d t o a d j u s t pH

* q .

s .

t h e s e in g r e d i e n t s .

%w/w

5 . 0 0

5 .00

5 . 0 0

8 5 . 0 0

Procedure:

a g i t a t i o n . Cool t o room t em pe ra tu re w i t h s t i r r i n g .

Heat ( A ) t o 70C. Heat ( B ) t o 72C. Add ( B ) t o (A) w i t h r a p i d

Protective Hand Lotion

I n q r e d i e n t s :

A S i l i c o n e f l u i d , 5 0

cs

B r i j 5 2

B r i j

56

T r i et ha no l ami ne

B Carboxy v i n y l po lymer , Carbopol 934

Water , de i on i zed

* P r e s e r v a t i v e

* q . s . t he s e i n g r e d i e n t s .

Procedure:

a g i t a t i o n . S t i r u n t i l s e t .

Heat

( A ) t o

70C. Heat

(5)

o 72C. Add ( 6 ) t o

( A )

r a p i d

Protective Hand Lotion

I n q r e d i e n t s :

A

S i l i c o n e f l u i d ,

5 0

cs

B r i j

52

B r i j 58

T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e

B Carboxy v i n y l po lymer , Carbopol 934

Water , de i on i zed

* P r e s e r v a t i v e

* q . s .

t he se i n g r e d i e n t s ,

Heat ( A ) t o 70C. Heat

( 6 )

t o 72C. Add

( 6 )

t o (A) r a p i d

Procedure:

a g i t a t i o n .

S t i r

u n t i l s e t .

SOURCE: I C1 S u r f a c t a n t s : S ug ge st ed F o r m u l a t i o n s

o ow w

1 0 . 0 0

2 .60

4 . 9 0

0 . 2 0

0 . 2 0

8 2 . 1 0

%w/w

10.00

4 . 0 0

3 .60

0.20

0 . 2 0

8 2 . 0 0

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 293/553

Lot ions 271

Hand Lotion

Ma te r i a1s :

%

by Wei n h t

P a r t A :

1. De i on i zed Water 85 .89

2 . T r i e th ano l ami ne 0 .4 2

3 . G l y c e r i n e 4 .0 0

5.

Eentone EW r h e o l o g i c a l a d d i t i v e 1 . 5 0

P a r t E :

6. Cerap hyl 424 3.00

7 . S t e a r i c A c i d

X X X

0 . 7 9

8 . I so pr op an ol L a no la te D i s t i l l e d 1 . o o

9 . P l u r o n i c F-1 27 1

. o o

10 . G l y ce r y l M onos tea ra te 2 .00

11. Pro py l Paraben 0 .1 0

12 .F rag rance 0 .20

4. Methy l Paraben 0. 10

P a r t C :

M a n uf a ct u ri n g D i r e c t i o n s :

1 . P a r t A - In a s t a i n l e s s s t e e l steam j a c k e t e d k e t t l e , add i t e m 1

t o 4 and hea t t o 60C. Us in g a homomixer , add i t e m 5 s l o w l y t o

avo i d l um ps and m i x f o r 20 m i nu tes o r u n t i l homogeneous. Hea t

t o 80C.

80C. M i x u n t i l com p l e te l y m e l t ed and homogeneous.

2 . P a r t B - I n a s e p e r a t e v e s s e l , ad d i t e m s

6

t o 11 and hea t t o

3 . M i x P a r t B s l o w ly i n P a r t A a t 80C u s i n g sweep b l ad es .

4 . Cool t o 50C. Add Pa r t

C ,

m i x and coo l t o room tem pe ra tu re .

5 . V i s c o s i t y o f l o t i o n a f t e r 24 ho ur s s ho u ld be 9100 cp s.

Formula TS-246

Soft Hand Lotion

M a t e r i a1 s: % by Weiah t

1 . De i on i zed Water 84 .1

2. B en to ne LT r h e o l o g i c a l a d d i t i v e 0 . 5

3. G l y c e r i n e 2 . 5

4 . T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e 0 . 7

5 .

Methy l Paraben 0 . 1

6 . Ceraphy l 424 1 . 5

7 . I s o c e t y l S t e a r a te 1 . o

8 . A c e t o l 1 . 7

9 . S t e a r i c A c id 4 .0

10 . Lexemul 55G 3 . 4

11 . V o l a t i l e S i l i c o n e 7158 0 . 2

12 .Propy l Paraben

0 . 1

13.F ragrance 0 . 2

M a n u f a ct u r i ng D i r e c t i o n s :

1 . U s in g v i g o r ou s a g i t a t i o n , add t h e E e nto ne LT t o t h e w a t e r.

M i x f o r 20 m i n ut e s .

2 . Add i n g r e d i e n t s 3 t h r o u g h 5 t o S t e p 1, h e a t t o 80C.

3 . I n a s e p a r a t e v e s s e l , c om bin e i n g r e d i e n t s 6 , 7, 8 ,9 , 10 a nd 12

4. Add t h e O i l Phase t o th e Water Phase .

5 .

Coo l t o 50C, t he n add i n g r ed i e n t s 11 and 13 .

6 . Cool t o 35C and package.

Formula TS-287

SOURCE: Rheox, I n c , : Suggested For mu la t i on s

Hea t t o 80C.

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 294/553

272

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Hand and Body Lotion

P a r t 1 :

Water

Carbomer 934

P a r t 2 :

Modul an

I P

Amerchol L-101

GMS

SE

Rosswax 63-041 2

I M

J o j o b a O i l

P a r t

3 :

Germaben I I E

P a r t 4 :

Fragrance

P a r t 5 :

T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e

%

78.6

0 . 2

1 . 6

3 . 8

0 .8

2 . 1

4 . 0

4 . 0

1 . 6

1 . o

q . s

2 .3

Procedure:

P a r t A :

s t e e l k e t t l e .

P a r t

B:

I n a s ep ar at e h ea te d k e t t l e , heat t h e o i l phase u n t i l a l l

i n g r e d i e n t s a r e m e l t e d . When e v e r y t h i n g i s m el t e d add t h e O i l

Phase t o t h e Wate r Phase . When e ve ry th i n g i s b l ended add t h e

p r e s e r v a t i v e , t h e f r a g r a n c e and t h e Tr i et h an o la m in e w i t h

i nc rea sed ag i t a t i o n . Cool t o room tem pera tu re and package .

D i s p e rs e t h e Carbomer 934 i n t h e w a t e r phase i n a s t a i n l e s s

Jojoba Lotion

P a r t A :

Modul an

Amerchol L-101

I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e

G l yce ry l M ono S tea ra te Pu re

Rosswax 63-0412

I s o p ro p y l M yr i s t a t e

Ross Jojoba

O i

1

P a r t 0:

Water

Glycer ine Pure Emery 916

T r i et ha no l ami ne

%

1 .s

0 . 8

5 . 0

2 . 1

4.0

4 . 0

1 . 6

74.4

4 . 2

2 . 3

Procedure:

a g i t a t i o n . When te m p e r a tu r e i s re a ch e d m ix P a r t

( A )

t o P ar t ( B ) ,

and coo l . Package i n co n t a i ne r a t be l ow 120F.

SOURCE:

Frank B .

R o s s C o . ,

I n c . : S ug ge st ed F o r m u l a t i o n s

Hea t Pa r t ( A ) and Pa r t ( B ) i n s e p a r a t e v e s s e l s t o 170F un de r

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 295/553

Lotions

273

High Petro latum Lot ion

High petrolatum for severely dry, chapped or chafed skin.

O i l

Phase:

Wh i t e P ro tope t

I S

Crodamol

PMP

Voloo

3

Water Phase A :

Dei o ni zed Water

Carbopol 941

1 0 % Sodi um Hyd rox i de Sol u t i on

Water Phase B :

G l y c e r i n

Volpo s-10

Germaben

I 1

%w/w

30.00

1 0 . 0 0

2 . 3 0

4 6 3 5

0.13

0 . 5 2

5 . 0 0

5 . 7 0

q s

Procedure:

Water Phase A :

h e at in g t o 8 0 C . When co mp let e ly d isp er se d, add t h e sodium

h y d r o x id e s o l u t i o n and c o n t i n u e m i x i n g .

Water Phase B :

When u n i fo rm , add t o water phase

A .

O i l Phase:

Combine a l l components

o f

t h e

o i l

phase, m i x and hea t t o

8 0 C .

When un i fo r m, add th e combined water phases s lo w ly w h i l e m ix in g .

C o n t i n u e m i x i n g t o room temperature.

Charge a v e s s e l w i t h w a t e r and d u s t i n t h e c a rb om er . S t a r t

Combine components i n a sepa ra te ves se l and m ix , hea t t o 8 0 C .

Low Irr i tation Moisturizing Lotion

D i sodi urn 1 a u r y l s u l f o s u c c i n a t e

G l y c e r i n

Methy lparaben

C e t y l a l c o h o l

C a r n a t i o n M i n e r a l O i 1

M e t h y l p he n yl p o l y s i o x a n e

Beeswax

Water

0.30%

5 . 0 0

0 . 2 0

2 . 0 0

2 0 . 0 0

2 . 0 0

0 . 2 0

q . s .

t o

1 0 0 . 0 0

SOURCE: Wi tco Co rp . : Pe tro leum S p e c i a l t i e s Group : Sugges ted

F o r m u l a t i o n s

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 296/553

274 Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations

Inar edi n ts

L i g h t m i n e ra l o i l

S t e a r y l a l c o h ol

B r i

j

721, Steareth-21

B r i

j

7 2 , Stea re th -2

Hydroalcoholic Mineral Oil Emulsion

w

8.00

1

. o o

Wate r , de i on i zed

Carbomer 934

Sodium Hydro x ide So lu t i o n (10%)

* P r e s e r v a t i v e

Fragrance

Ethano l

,

SDA-40,

(

190 Proof)

* q . s . t h es e i n g r e d i e n t s .

P rocedure :

Heat ( A ) t o 70C and

6)

o 75C w i t h good p

Add ( C ) be low 50C and m ix tho ro ug h l y . Add th e

be low 35C. Rep lace water l o s t due t o evapo ra t

Mineral

Oil

Lotion

I n q r e d i e n t s :

A M in er al o i l

A r l a c e l 165, a c i d s t a b l e g .m .s .

B Water , de i on i zed

* P r e s e r v a t i v e

C * M i l d a c i d t o a d j u s t pH

*q.

s ,

t h e s e i g r e d i e n t s .

2 .28

1 . 7 2

66.00

0 .40

0 .40

0 . 00

0.20

20.00

o p e l l e r a g i t a t i o n

r em ai n i ng phases

on. Package.

w

10.00

10.00

80.00

Procedure :

t ho ro ug h b u t g e n t l e s t i r r i n g . Cool t o 25C w i t h g e n t l e s t i r r i n g .

SOURCE:

IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : S ug ge st ed F o r m u l a t i o n s

Heat

( A )

t o 6OC. Heat (B) t o 62C. Add ( B ) t o (A) w i t h

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 297/553

Lotions 275

Hydrogen Peroxide Lotion

I n n r e d i e n t s :

A

S t e a r i c ac id , t r i p l e presse d

S t e a r y l a lc o h o l

C e t y l a l c o h o l

B r i j 721s

S i l i c o n e o i l , 350 cs .

B Water , de i on i zed

EDTA

Phenacet i

C Hydrogen pe ro x id e, 27% d i

D *Phosphor i c ac id , 10% C . P

* q .

s .

t h e s e i g r e di e n t s .

Procedure:

u t i o n g ra de

1 0 . 0 0

0 .50

1 . o o

5 . 0 0

0 .50

51 .0 6

0 . 2 0

0 . 0 4

22.20

9 .50

Heat ( A ) t o 60C and (6)

o

65C. Add ( B ) t o ( A) s l ow l y w i t h

m od er at e a g i t a t i o n . Add C ) be low 35C. Rep lace water l o s t

by e v a p o r a t i o n and a d j u s t pH t o 3 . 5- 4. 0 w i t h d i l u t e ph o sp h or ic

a c i d (10% C .P .) . Package i n s u i t a b l e c o n t a i n e r f o r p o s s i b l e

e vo l u t i on o f oxygen.

Formula HC-14

Hydrogen Peroxide Lotion

I n q r e d i e n t s :

A C e t y l a l c o h o l

B r i j 52

B r i j 58

B Wate r , de i on i zed

C Hydrogen pe ro xi de , 35% d

D Pho sph oric a c i d (1O%C>P>

l u t i o n g rad e

a s r e q u i r e d

4 .00

1 . 5 0

3.50

73.06

17.14

Procedure:

t ho ro ug h a g i t a t i o n . Cool t o 45C

w i t h a g i t a t i o n . Compensate f o r

l o s t w a te r due t o e v a p o r a t i o n . Add

( C ) .

A d j u s t pH t o 3 . 5- 4. 0

by add i ng 0).

SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : S ug ge st ed F o r m u l a t i o n s

Heat (A) t o 70C. Heat

( 6 )

t o 72C. Add ( 6 ) t o ( A ) s l ow l y w i t h

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 298/553

276 Cosmetic

and

Toiletry Formulations

Isopropyl Myristate Lotion

I n n r e d i e n t s :

I s o p r o p y l m yr i s t a t e

A r l a c e l 6 0

A r l a s o l v e 2 0 0 L

Wate r , de i on i zed

Carbopol 934

Sodium hydrox ide (10%

W / W

aqueous)

Dow i c i l 200

Fragrance

*q

.

s

.

t h e s e

i

g r e d i

ents

.

B

10.00

1 . 6 0

3 .33

84 .07

0.40

0.40

0 . 1 0

0.10

Procedure:

Heat (A) t o 65C and ( B ) t o 60C. Add (A ) t o ( B ) s lo w ly w i t h

m odera te ancho r t yp e a g i t a t i o n and add (C ) . Add ( D ) a t a b o u t

50C. Add ( E ) a t 35C and add wa te r t o com pensate f o r l o ss due t o

e v a p o r a t i o n .

Formula PC 8186

Vanishing Lot ion

I n q r e d i e n t s :

A Ar lamol I S M L

S t e a r y l a l c o h o l

S i l i c o n e o i l (350

cs)

Ar lamol

E

B r i j 700

B r i j 7 2

B Water , de i on i zed

Veegum (5% aqueous s o l u t i o n )

Carbopol 934

4 .00

1 .oo

0.50

1 . o o

2.00

2.00

79.05

10.00

0 .15

C Sod ium hydrox ide (10% aqueous) 0.15

D Germal l

I 1 0 .10

E

He rb al Fr ag ra nc e SL 79-1224, PFW 0 .0 5

Procedure:

a g i t a t i o n . Add (C) . Add (D) be low 50C. Add ( E ) a t 35C and add

w a te r t o c ompensate f o r l o s s d ue t o e v a p o r a t i o n .

S OU RC E: I C 1

Su r fa c ta n t s : Suggested F o rm u l a t i ons

Heat (A) t o 70C and ( 8 ) t o 72C. Add ( B ) t o ( A) w i t h m od era te

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 299/553

  otions 277

Lanolin & Aloe Lot ion

L o t i o n s have a w id e r a ng e o f a p p l i c a t i o n s i n t o d a y ' s c o sm e ti c

m ar ke t. I d e a l l y t h e y s ho u ld l e a v e a smooth l u x u r i o u s a f t e r f e e l

t o t h e s k i n and h e l p a l l e v i a t e such pro blems as d r y s k i n o r

chapp i ng f r om w i nd and sunburn . SC-188 i s an econom i ca l l o t i o n

which a ch ieve s b ot h ends. Crodamol PTC, a n o n - o i l y e s t e r w h ic h

g i v e s a c us hi on y f e e l a t l ow l e v e l s o f a d d i t i o n , a l s o w or ks

w i t h t h e l a n o l i n and l a n o l i n d e r i v e d p r od u ct s t o l ea v e a s a t i n y ,

n o n - g r e a s y , p r o t e c t i v e

f i l m

on t h e s k i n .

I n q r e d ie n t s :

E

P a r t

A :

Super R ef in ed Babassu O i l (Babassu O i l ) 2.00

Corona Pure New La no l i n ( L a n o l i n ) 2 .00

Crodacol CS-50 (C et ea ry l A lco hol ) 1.50

Su pe r S t e r o l E s t e r (C10-30 C h o l e s t e r o l / L a n o s t e r o l E s t e r s ) 1 . 0 0

Crodamol

PTC

( P e n t a e r y t h r i t y l T e t r ac a p r y la t e / C ap r a t e ) 0 .8 0

Crodaco l C-95 (C et y l A l co ho l ) 0 .50

Crodarnol MM ( M y r i s t y l M y r i s t a t e ) 0 .5 0

In cr o po l CS-20 (Cete areth -20) 1 . o o

M i n e r a l O i l (7Ossu) 4.00

S t e a r i c A c i d XXX 0.50

S i l i c o n e L -45 (1OOcps) 0 .30

Pro py l Paraben 0.1 5

P a r t

B :

Deion ized Water

G l y c e r i n

Veragel 2 0 0 Powder

Methy l Paraben

Carbopol 941

Dow i c i l 200

PEG-1 5 Cocami ne

81 -5 5

3 .00

0 .50

0 .30

0 .10

0 .10

0 .20

Procedure :

When c o m p l e t e l y d i s s o l v e d , a dd t h e r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s o f

P a r t B and hea t t o 75-8OC. Combine in g r e d ie n ts o f P ar t A

w i t h m i x i n g and hea t t o 75-80C. Add Pa r t B t o P ar t A w i t h g o o d

m i x i n g and c o o l t o d e s i r e d

f i l l

t em pera tu re . Ad j u s t pH w i t h

1 .0 % NaOH.

D us t t h e C ar bo p ol 9 41 o f P a r t B i n t o t h e wa te r w i t h m ix i ng .

pH: 6.0+-0.5

V i s c o s i t y : 7,500+-10% (RVT S p in d le #5, 20 rpm 25C)

N . A . T . C . Approved

SOURCE: C rod a I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n S C - 1 8 8 - 2

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 300/553

278

Cosmetic and

Toiletry Formulations

Lotion

I n a r e d i e n t s :

A

S t e a r y l a l c o h o l

B r i j 7215

S i l i c o n e o i l , 350 c s .

B Water, de i on i zed

C H yd rog en p e r o x i d e , 27% d i l u t i o n g ra d e

w

8 . 0 0

4 . 0 0

0 . 5 0

65.30

22.20

Procedure:

modera te a g i t a t i o n . Add (C) be low 35C. Rep lace water l o s t by

e v a p o r a t i o n and a d j u s t pH t o 3 . 5 - 4 .0 w i t h d i l u t e ph o sp h or ic

a c i d ( 1 0 % C .

P .

) . Package i n s u i t a b l e c o n t a i net- f o r p o s s i b l e

e v o l u t i o n o f oxygen.

Formula PC-8202

Heat (A ) t o 60C and ( B ) t o 65C. Add ( B ) t o ( A) s l o w l y w i t h

Lotion

I n g r e d i e n t s :

A C e t y l a l c o h o l

B r i j 7215

Si1 ;con e o i l , 3 50 c s .

Sorbo

B Water , de i on i zed

C

Hydrogen p e r o x i d e , 27% d i l u t i o n g r ad e

w

3 . 0 0

3 . 0 0

0 . 5 0

66.30

5 . 0 0

22.20

Procedure:

modera te a g i t a t i o n . Add (C) be low 35C. Rep lace water l o s t by

e v a p o r a ti o n and a d j u s t pH t o 3 .5 -4 .0 w i t h d i l u t e p h o sp h o ri c

a c i d ( 1 0 %

C . P . ) .

Package i n s u i t a b l e c o n t a i n e r f o r p o s s i b l e

e v o l u t i o n

o f

oxygen.

Formula PC-8203

Heat (A ) t o 60C and (B ) t o 65C. Add ( B ) t o (A ) s l o w ly w i t h

Glossy Lotion

I n g r e d i e n t s :

A M i n e ra l o i 1 , C a r n a t i o n

S t e a r y l a lc o h o l

B r i 721s

B r i j 72

B Water , de i on i zed

C D o w i c i l 2 0 0

D Fragrance

w

8 . 0 0

1 - 0 0

2 . 0 0

2.00

86.80

0 . 1 0

0 . 1 0

Procedure:

Heat ( A ) t o 70C and ( B ) t o 75C w i t h good p r o p e l l e r a g i t a t i o n

Add (C) a t 50C and mix th o ro ug hl y . Add

( D )

a t 35C. Add water t o

compensate f o r l o s s due t o e v a p o r a t i o n .

SOURCE: I C 1 S u r f a c t a n t s : S ug ge st ed F o r m u l a t i o n s

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 301/553

Lo t ions 279

Low Solids lmond Lotion II

Water

Carbomer 934

Rosswax 573

GMS SE

Almond O i 1 - L i p ov al A1M

Coconut

O i l

#76

Jo j oba O i l

T E A

Preservat ive Germaben I 1

Fragrance GG44

Pa r t s by Wei qh t

568 . Ogr .

2 . 0 g r .

4 . 0 g r .

4 . 0 g r .

1 6 . 0 g r .

16 .0g r .

4 . 0 g r .

4 . 0 g r .

6 . 0 g r .

q . s .

Procedure:

H ea t t h e w a te r t o 60C under a g i t a t i o n and s l o w l y a dd t h e

Carbomer 934. When th e wa te r i s f u l l y m i xed add t h e 573, GMS,

Almond

O i l ,

Coconut

O i l ,

and Jo joba

O i l

t ha t have been hea ted

t o 65C i n a sepa ra te k e t t l e . As soon as t hey have been m i xed

w e l l add t h e p r e s e r v a t i v e , t h e f r a g r a n c e and t h e n t h e

TEA

under

h i g h a g i t a t i o n . Cool t h e b a t c h t o 55C, and pa cka ge .

Peach Hand Lotion

Water

Carbomer 934

Rosswax 573

Almond O i 1

L i p o v a l ALM

Coconut O i l #76

Ross Jojoba O i l

T E A

Germaben I 1

Fragrance GK-16

GMS-SE

P a r ts by Wei n h t

568. Ogr

2 Ogr

4 .0g r

4 .

Ogr

16 .0g r

16 .0gr

4. Ogr

4 , Ogr

6 .0g r

q . s .

Procedure :

H ea t t h e w a t er t o 60C u n de r a g i t a t i o n a nd s l o w l y add t h e

Carbomer 934. When t h e wat er i s f u l l y m ixed add t h e 573, GMS,

Almond O i l , Coconut O i l , and Jo joba O i l t ha t have been hea ted

t o 65C i n a s ep a r at e k e t t l e . As s oon as t h e O i l Phase has been

mixed w e l l , add t h e Germaben 11, t h e F ra g r an c e , a nd t h e n t h e

T E A under h i g h a g i t a t i o n . Cool t o 55C f o r f i l l i n g .

SOURCE:

Frank B . Ross C o . , I n c . : Suggested F orm u l a t i ons

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 302/553

28

Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations

Mi l k Lot i on

L i qui d

Pet r ol at um

Am t er LG- OD

Pr opyl ene Gl ycol Monost ear at e

POE ( 5) Hydr ogenat ed Cast or Oi l ( Emal ex HC- 5) *

POE ( 5) Gl ycer y l Monost ear at e ( Emal ex G M - 5 ) *

But yl Par aben

Am hope LL

Acyl gl ut amat e HS- 11

1, 3- But y l ene Gl yc ol

Met hyl Par aben

Car boxyvi

nyl

Pol ymer

Wat er

Sodi um Hydr oxi de ( NaOH)

*Ni hon Emul s i on Co.

Procedure:

1

Di s s ol ve ( A) at 80C.

2 . Di sso l ve ( C) , and t hen neut r al i ze wi t h

0).

and di sso l ve at 80C.

t o ( A) as m xi ng, and t hen cool t o 30C

3 Add

4 . Add

Note:

( B ) t o

# 2

3 s l owl y

hi s

mi l k

ot i on has l i ght t ouch, and spr eads wel l .

Milk

Lot i on

Mi ner al Oi l

Am t er

LGOD

Pr opyl ene G1 ycol St ear at e

PEG- 5 Hydr ogenat ed Cast or Oi l

PEG- 5 G1 ycer yl St ear at e

But yl Par aben

Am hope LL

Acyl gl ut amat e HS- 11

Car bomer

9 4 1

Sodi

urn

Hydr oxi de

But y l ene Gl ycol

Met hyl Par aben

Wat er

Mi l k l ot i on wi t h smoot h t ouch and good spr eadabi l i t y

4 . 7

2 . 2

0 . 4

1. 3

2. 8

0 . 1

3. 0

0 . 3

5 . 0

0 . 2

0. 2

79. 72

0. 08

5. 00

2 . 0 0

0. 50

1. 50

2. 50

0 . 1 0

3. 00

0. 30

0. 20

0. 08

5. 00

0. 20

7 9 . 6 2

Procedure:

Di ss ol ve Car bomer

941

and s odi um hydr ox i de i n wat er f i r s t .

Add ot her i ngr edi ent s o f ( B ) t o t he s ol ut i on and di s s ol ve at

75- 80 degr ees C. Di sso l ve

( A )

i ngr edi ent s at

80

degr ees

C

and

add ( A) t o ( B ) wi t h agi t at i on. Cool down t o r oom t emper at ur e

wi t h agi t at i on.

SOURCE:

Ajinomoto

USA,

Inc.: Sugges ted Formu la t i ons

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 303/553

Lotions

281

Milk Lotion

(0 )

L i q u i d P a r a f f i n (#70)

P a r a f f i n Wax (mp 54-56C)

C e t y l A l c o h o l

I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e

Squa l ane

N i k k o l

WCB

L a n o l i n

P o l y o xy e t h y le n e ( 1 0 ) L a n o l i n A lc o h o l

Po l ye th y l ene G l y co l ( 6300) M onos tea rate

P o l y o xy e t h y le n e ( 5 ) S t e a r y l E t h e r

P o l y o x y e t h y l e n e ( 2 5 ) C e t y l E t h e r

(W) A j i d e w N-50

P o l y e t h y l e n e G l y c o l - 1500

Water

P r e s e r v a t i v e

Procedure:

1 . Heat 0) nd

W )

t o 80C.

2 . Add (W) t o

( 0 )

s l o w l y w i t h a g i t a t i o n .

3 . C ool t o 35C w i t h s t i r r i n g .

p H : 5 . 3

V i s c o s i t y : 2 0,000 c p s

Milk

Lotion

(0) L i q u i d P a r a f f i n (#70)

Beeswax

S t e a r y l A l c o h o l

I s o p a l m i t y l A lc oh o l

P o l y o x y e t h y l e n e

( 1 0 )

G l yc e ry l T r i i s o s t e a r a t e

Po l yox ye t hy l ene (1 5 ) C e t y l E t h e r

W )

Ajidew N-50

Water

P r e s e r v a t i v e

Procedure:

1. Heat 0) nd W ) t o 80C.

2 . Add (W) t o

( 0 )

s l o w l y .

3 . Cool t o 40C w i t h s t i r r i n g .

pH: 5.2

V i s c o s i t y : 1,7 00 c p s

SOURCE: Ajinomoto USA, I n c . : S ug ge st ed F o r m u l a t i o n s

1 0 . 0

5 . 0

3 .0

2 .0

0 . 5

4 . 0

0 . 5

1 . o

0 . 5

2 .1

2 . 9

3 . 0

3 . 0

6 2 . 5

q . s

10.45

1 . o

1 . 5

1 . 2

2 .35

0 . 8

3 . 0

79 .7

Q . S .

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 304/553

282

Cosmetic and

Toiletry

Formulations

Mineral Oil Lotion

I n q r e d i e n t s :

A M i ne r a l o i l , C a rn a t io n b ra n d

B r i j 72

A r l aso l ve 200L

B Water , de i on i zed

Carbopol 934

20 .00

2 . 7 0

4 .60

71 . 8 0

0.40

C Sodium hydrox ide (10%

W / W

aqueous) 0 . 4 0

D D o w i c i l 2 0 0 1 . o o

Procedure :

a g i t a t i o n . Add C . Add ( D ) be lo w 50C. Add ( E )

a t

35C and add

w a te r t o c ompensate f o r l o s s due t o e v a p o r a t i o n .

Formula PC-8184

Heat (A) t o 70C and 6 ) o 72C. Add ( 6 ) t o ( A) w i t h m od era te

Mineral Oil Lotion-O/W

I n q r e d i e n t s :

A M in er a l o i l

B r i j 52 ( C et et h- 2)

A r l a s o l v e 200 L i q u i d ( I s o c e t e th - 2 0 )

B Water , d e i on i zed

Carbomer 934

A r l

aso l ve D M I

C Sod ium hydrox ide-10% aqueous s o l u t i o n

D * P r e s e r v a t i v e

* q . s . t he s e i n g r e d i e n t s .

o ow w

30.00

5 . 2 0

6 .60

5 2 . 8 0

0 . 2 0

5 . 0 0

0 . 2 0

Procedure :

D i s p e r s e Carbomer i n t h e w a t e r and A r l a s o l v e D M I w i t h r a p i d

a g i t a t i o n . Heat (B) t o 65 deg.

C

and (A ) t o 60 deg.

C .

Add

( 6 )

t o

( A) w i t h go od a g i t a t i o n . Add ( C ) . Add ( D ) below

5 0

deg. C .

S t i r t o 35 d e g. C and rep l ac e evapora ted wa te r .

SOURCE:

IC1

S u r f a c t a n t s : S ug ge st ed F o r m u l a t i o n s

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 305/553

Lot ions 283

Mineral

Oil

Free Lotion Contains Ethanol

(20 )

I n s r e d i e n t s :

A Ar l am o l E

B r i j 721s

B r i j 7 2

S t e a r y l a lc o h o l

B Water , d e i on i zed

Carbopol 934

w

20 .00

2 . 0 0

4.00

4 .00

48.80

0 . 4 0

C Sodium hydrox ide

(10

aqueous) 0.40

D Germal l

I 1

0 . 2 0

E Fragrance, H 45756 ( P . R o b e r t e t ) 0 . 2 0

F

Et ha no l , SDA-40 (190 p ro o f )

2 0 . 0 0

Procedure:

b l a d e t y p e a g i t a t i o n . Add C ) . Add (D) when t h e te mp er at ur e

drops be low

5 0 C .

Add (E ) belo w 40C. Add wa te r t o compensate f o r

ev ap o r a t i on . Hom ogen ize. A d j u s t pH t o 5 . 5 - 6 . 5 .

Hea t (A ) t o 70C and (B ) t o 75C. Add (B ) t o (A ) s l ow l y us i ng

Lotion

I n s r e d i e n t s :

A

C e t y l a l c o h o l

B r i j 7215

B W a t e r , d e i o n i z e d

S or bo , S o r b i t o 1 S o l u t i o n

USP

Carbopol 934

w

1 - 0 0

1 - 0 0

95 .30

2 . 0 0

0 . 2 0

C

Sodium hydrox ide (10 W / W aqueous) 0 . 2 0

D D o w i c i l 200 0 .10

E

Fragrance

0 . 2 0

Procedure:

p r o p e l l e r t y p e a g i t a t i o n . Add ( C ) . Add ( D) when t h e t e m p e r a t u r e

drops below 50C. Add ( E ) below 40C. Add water t o compensate f o r

ev ap o r a t i on . Hom ogenize. Ad j us t pH t o 5 .5 -6 .5

SOURCE: IC1 Sur fac tan t s : Sugees ted F o rm u l a t i ons

Heat (A) t o 70C and (B) t o 75C. Add (B) t o ( A ) s l o w l y u s i n g

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 306/553

284

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Moisturizing Lotion

Phase A :

P r o t o p e t I S

PPG-15 St e a r y l E th er (Ar la mo l E )

S t e a r y l A l c o h o l

S t ea r et h -2 ( B r i

j

72)

S t ea r e th - 20 ( B r i

j

78)

D i

meth i cone

Phase 8 :

Water

Carbomer 940 (Carbopol 940)

Phase C :

Polyquate rn ium-19 (A r l a to ne PQ220)

Water

T r i e t ha no l ami ne

Percen t

2 . 0 0

2.00

1

. o o

3 . 0 0

1 . 0 0

0 . 1 0

5 0 . 0 0

0 . 1 0

10.00

30.20

0 . 1 0

Phase D :

Germaben I 1 0 . 5 0

Procedure :

D i spe r se Ca rbopol 940 i n wa te r ( B ) and hea t t o 75C. Heat

A

t o 70C. Add A t o B and m ix u s i n g p r o p e l l e r - t y p e a g i t a t i o n . Heat

C t o 70C and add t o AB w i t h t h o r o u g h a g i t a t i o n . C ool t o 60C

w i t h a g i t a t i o n a nd add D .

Pomade Lotion

O i l Phase:

P r o t o p e t IS P e t r o l a t u m

Crodamol PMP

Volpo 3

Water Phase A :

Dei o n i zed Water

Carbopol 941

1 0 % Sodium H y d r o x i d e S o l u t i o n

Percen t

3 0 . 0 0

1 0 . 0 0

2.30

4 6 . 3 5

0 . 1 3

0 . 5 2

Water Phase 6:

G l y c e r i n e 5 . 0 0

Vo lpo s-10 5.70

Germaben I 1 9 , s .

Procedure :

Water Phase

A .

Charge a v e s s e l w i t h w a te r and d u s t i n t h e

Carbomer. S t a r t he a t i n g t o 80C. When com p l e te l y d i spe rse d ,

add t h e Sodium H y d r ox i d e s o l u t i o n and c o n t i n u e m i x i n g .

Combine wa te r Phase B i n a s e p a r a t e v e s s e l an d m i x an d

hea t t o 80C. When u n i f o r m add t o wate r Phase

A .

Combine t h e o i l phase , m ix and hea t t o 80C. When un i fo rm

add t h e comb ined wa te r phases s l ow l y w h i l e m i x i ng . Con t i nue

m i x i n g t o room t e m p e r a tu r e ,

SOURCE: Wi tc o Co r p . : Pe t ro leum Sp ec i a l t i e s Group : Sugges ted

F o r m u l a t i o n s

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 307/553

  otions 285

Neutralizing Lotion

Inqredi nt s :

A

F o r e s t a l l

B r i j

35 SP

Wate r , de i on i zed

*S tab i 1 e r

B

Hydrogen pe ro x i de , 35%

C * P h o s p h o r i c a c i d

*q . s , t hese i g r e d i e n t s .

w-y

1.40

2 . o o

92 .30

4.30

Procedure :

t o

5 . 0

w i t h ( C ) . O p t i o n a l s t a b i l i z e r s may i n c l u d e s e q u e s tr a n t s

o r a n t i o x i d a n t s .

Formula HC-16

M i x (A ) u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add 6 ) a t 25 deg. C . A d j u s t pH t o 4 . 5

Neutral izing Lotion

I

a r e d i e n t s

:

A Sodium bromate

B r i j 30

P o l y g l y c o l p a l m i t i c amide

Water

* P r e s e r v a t i v e

B * A ce t ic a c id , g l a c i a l

* q . s . t h es e i n g r e d i e n t s .

12.00

4 .50

4 .50

79 . o o

Procedure:

Add t h e sod ium b rom a te t o w a te r . S t i r w i t h hea t u n t i l

d i s s o l v ed . Add t h e rem a inde r

o f

( A ) . H e at t o 70-75C. A g i t a t e

c o n t i n u a l l y u n t i l c o o l e d t o room t em pe r at ur e. A d j u s t pH t o

6 . 5 - 7 . 0 w i t h

6 ) .

Package.

Formula HC-18

Quick Dry Rol l -On Lot ion

I n g r e d i e n t s :

A Cyclometh icone,

DC

344 f l u i d

B r i j 52

B r i j

35SP

B Water , de i on i zed

C Aluminum ch lo rh yd ro xi de , 50% aqueous

12.70

3 . 1 0

0.90

48.30

35 00

Procedure:

Heat (A) t o 70C and 6 ) t o 72C. Add (6) o (A) w i t h a g i t -

a t i o n . Cool t o 35-40C w i t h s t i r r i n g and s l o w l y add t h e r em ain de r

o f

i g r e d i e n t s .

SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : S ug ge st ed F o r m u l a t i o n s

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 308/553

286 Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations

O/W Broad Spectrum Protective Moisturizing Lotion with Vitamins*

I n g r e d i e n t s :

A ) Parso l

MCX

Parso l 1789

Parso l

5000

G l y c e r y l M o n o s t e a r a t e

C e t y l A l c o h ol E x t r a

Dermol 185

Ganex V-220

P r i s o r i ne 3505

B u t y l a t e d H y d r o x y t o l u e n e

Edeta BD

Phenoni p

Amphisol A

E ) Deion ized Water

AMP

10% s o l ' n

C )

Deion ized Water

P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l

Carbopol 981 1% s o l ' n

D) AMP 10% s o l ' n

E ) Deion ized Water

P a r s o l HS

AMP

10%

s o l ' n

F ) V i t a m i n E A c e t a t e

G) Ropufa 25N-6 O i l

H ) Panthenol

I

onceau Red SX 0.2% s o l ' n

J) Par f l ex 49915

w

2 .00

1 - 0 0

0.60

2 .00

2 .00

6 .00

2 .0 0

2.00

0 .05

0 . 10

0.60

1 . 5 0

10 .00

3.97

22.26

5 . 0 0

10 .00

1 . 0 2

20.00

0 .60

1 .80

2.00

2 . 0 0

2.00

0.25

0.40**

Procedure:

Heat p a r t

A )

t o 85C w h i le s t i r r i n g . When homogeneous, add

p a r t s B ), C) a nd

D )

p re -hea ted t o 75C, w h i l e m i x i ng . Add Pa r t E )

p re -h e at ed t o 75C, w h i l e m i x i n g ( b e s u r e t h a t t h e P a r s ol HS has

b e e n c o m p l e t e l y d i s s o l v e d , i f t r a c e s r em a in , add a s m a l l q u a n t i t y

o f t h e n e u t r a l i z i n g base u n t i l t h e s o l u t i o n i s c l e a r ) . Cool t o

40C, add p a r t s F ) , G ) ,

H ,

I nd

J).

Compensate f o r water

l o s s

and c o n t i n u e s t i r r i n g w h i l e c o o l i n g t o a mb ien t t em pe ra tu re .

Remark

:

* Wh i le no t a sunsc reen , t h i s f o rm u l a t i on sco red an SPF E when

te s t e d acco rd i ng t o t h e FDA/OTC m ethod ( ra ng e - f i n d i n g assay

on s i x s u b j e c t s : I R I Ref. 582627).

pH v a l u e s ho u ld be a ro un d 7 .0 t o p re v e n t r e c r y s t a l l i z a t i o n

o f P ar so l

H S .

* * D e r m a t o l o g i c a l l y t e s t e d p er fu me f o r s u ns cr ee ns . T he f i n a l

SOURCE: Givaudan-Roure : Formu la t i on 08 COS 029

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 309/553

Lotions

287

O W Lot ion

1 .

2 .

3.

4.

5 .

6 .

7.

8.

9.

10

1 1

A- C Copol ymer

580

Mi ner al Oi l

(70 ss)

Dow

556

Fl ui d

Pr opyl ene G1 ycol D pel ar gonat e

Amer chol 400

Et hoxyol 24

Ar l ac el 60

Tween 60

Propy l -P -Hyd roxybenzoa te

Sor bi t o1

(70%)

Car bopol

941

12.Methyl-P-Hydroxybenzoate

13. Tr i et hanol am ne

14.

Wat er

W

2 . 0

5.0

1

. o

10.0

2.0

. o

. o

2. 0

0. 1

5.0

0. 5

0. 2

0. 75

69 . 45

Pr ocedur e:

Di sper se Car bopol

i n

wat er . Wei gh

1- 9

and heat t o 80- 9OC

wi t h s l ow agi t a t i on. Add r emai ni ng

i

ngr edi ent s t o Car bopol / wat er

di s per s i on, exc ept t r i et hanol am ne, and heat t o 80-9OC. Add t he

wat er phase t o t he aqueous phase and shear

i n

homom xer .

Cont i nue shear i ng whi l e cool i ng t o 40C, t hen add t r i et hanol am ne,

m xi ng wel l . Cool t o 30C, add per f ume, de- aer at e and package.

Ref :

5189-2-7

O/W Lotion

1 .

2 .

3.

4.

5.

6 .

7.

8 .

A- C Copol ymer 580

Di s t i l l ed I s opr opyl L anol at e

Dow

556

Fl ui d

Pr opyl ene Gl ycol Di pel ar gonat e

Et hoxyol

24

Ar l acel

60

Tween 60

P r o p y l - P - H y d r o x y b e n z o a t e

9.

Sor bi t ol

(70%)

10.Car bopol 941

1 1 Tr i et hanol am ne

12.Methyl-P-Hydroxybenzoate

13. Wat er

w-, o/,

2. 0

3. 0

2 . 0

13. 0

1 . o

1 . o

2.0

0.1

5 . 0

0 . 5

0. 75

0 2

69 . 45

Pr ocedur e:

Di sper se Car bopol

i n

wat er . Wei gh

1-8

and heat t o

80-9OC

wi t h s l ow agi t a t i on. Add r emai ni ng i ngr edi ent s t o Car bopol / wat er

di sper s i on, except t r i et hanol am ne, and heat t o 80- 9OC. Add t he

wat er phase t o t he aqueous phase and s hear

i n

homom xer . Cont i nue

s hear i ng whi l e c ool i ng t o 40C, t hen add t r i et hanol am ne, m xi ng

wel l .

ool

t o 30C, add per f ume, de- aer at e and package.

Ref : 51 89-2-8

SOURCE:

Al l i ed Si gnal

I n c . :

Suggest ed For mul at i ons

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 310/553

  88

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

O/W Lot ion

1

A- C Pol yet hy l ene 617

2. A- C Copol ymer 540

3 . Mi ner al Oi l ( 70 s s )

4. Dow 556 Fl ui d

5. Pr opyl ene G1 ycol D i pel ar gonat e

6. Hydr oxy01

7.

Et hoxyol 24

8.

Ar l acel

60

9.

Tween

60

10.Propyl-P-Hydroxybenzoate

W

. %

1 . o

. o

5. 0

. o

10. 5

2 . 0

. 0

1. 3

1. 8

0. 1

11. Sor bi t ol

( 70

5 0

12. Car bopol

941

0. 25

13 Ger mal l 115 0 . 4

14.Methyl-P-Hydroxybenzoate

0. 2

15 . Tr i et hanol am ne 0. 75

16. Wat er

68. 8

Pr ocedur e:

Di sper se Car bopol

i n

wat er . Wei gh

1- 10

and heat t o 80- 9OC

wi t h sl ow agi t at 1 on. Add r emai

ni ng i

ngr edi ent s t o Car bopol /

wat er di s per s i on, exc ept t r i et hanol am ne,

and

heat

o

80- 9OC.

Add t he wax phase t o t he aqueous phas e and s hear

i n

homom xer .

Cont i nue shear i ng whi l e cool i ng t o 40C, t hen add t r et hanol am ne,

m xi ng wel l Cool t o 30C, add per f ume, deaer at e and package.

Ref

:

51 89- 2- 5

O/W Lotion

1 A- C Copol ymer 540

2. Mi ner al Oi l ,

70 ss

3 . Gl yc er i ne

4. I s opr opyl Pal m t at e

5. Anhydr ous Lanol i n

6 . Ar l ac el 165

7. Pr opyl - P - Hydr oxybenzoat e

W

. %

2. 0

10. 0

5. 0

10. 0

3. 0

5. 0

0. 1

a .

TEA 3. 0

9. Tween

60

1 . 0

1O.Methyl-P-Hydroxybenzoate

0 . 2

. Ger mal l

115

0 . 2

12. Wat er 60 . 5

Pr ocedur e:

ar e used, so l vat i on wi l l be much f ast er . Hol d wax bl end at

85- 95C. Wei gh 9- 12 and heat t o 90- 95C.

shear

i n

homom xer or equi val ent . Cool t o 40C whi l e shear i ng.

Add per f ume and package.

Ref : 501 1- 38- 9

SOURCE

Al l i ed Si gnal

I n c . :

Suggest ed For mul at i ons

Wei gh 1- 7 and heat t o 85 - 95C. I f hi gher so l vat i ng t emper at ur es

Pl ace aqueous phase

i n

m xi ng cont a i ner , add wax phase,

and

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 311/553

Lotions 289

O/W Lotion with -Hydroxy Acids

I n q r e d i e n t s :

Phase A :

Cetea re th -15 (and) G l yce ro l S te a r a te (Tego Care 215 ) 6 .0

M i n e r a l

O i l

4 . 0

O c t y l S t e a r a t e ( T e g o s o f t OS) 5 .0

C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e ( T e g o s o ft CT) 5 . 0

S t ea ry l A l coho l (Tego A l kano l 18 ) 5 . 0

Phase 0:

G1 y c e r i n

Water

Phase C :

* -Hydroxy A c id s (20%)*

Per fum e , P rese rva t i ves

3 .0

6 2 . 0

10.0

Q . S .

* s o l u t i o n c o n t a i n s 10% c i t r i c a c i d and 10% m a l i c a c i d . pH

i s a d j u s t e d t o pH 3- 3. 5 w i t h NaOH.

Procedure:

t o 40C. Add Phase C and co o l t o 30C o r l o w e r .

Heat A and B t o 65C and m i x . Homogenize. Co ol w i t h s t i r r i n g

O/W

Lotion

Cold/Cold Process

I n g r e d i e n t s :

Phase A :

PEG-25 G ly ce ry l T r i o l e a t e (Taga t TO)

M i n e r a l

O i l

O c t y l S t e a r a t e ( T e g o s o f t OS)

C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e s ( T e g o s o f t CT)

Phase B:

Water

G l y c e r i n

P r e s e r v a t

i

es

Phase C :

Carbomer 934

M i n e r a l O i l

Phase D:

NaOH (10% s o l u t i o n )

Procedure:

1. Homogenize

A

+

8,

o i l p a r t i c l e s i z e t1.0 urn.

2 . Add

C

and D, s t i r i n t e n s i v e l y f o r 30 mi n ute s.

o f t h e Phases

A,

B,

C,

D :

are 20-25C.

%w/w

2 . 0

5 . 5

5 . 5

5 .5

7 6 . 3

3 .0

Q . S .

0 . 3

1 . 2

0 7

Temperature

SOURCE: Gol dsc hmi dt Chemical Cor p. : Sugg ested Fo rm ul a t i o ns

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 312/553

29 Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations

O il-In-W ater Body C are Lot ion

I n g r e d i e n t s :

A A r l a t o n e 9 8 5

B r i j 721

Ar lamol HD

Almond o i 1

B G-2330

P r o py l en e g l y c o l

A1 pa nt ha

Water

%w/w

4 . 0 0

2 . 0 0

10.00

3 . 0 0

1 . 2 5

1 .25

1 . o o

74.00

C *Perfume

* P r e s e r v a t i v e

*q I s .

t h e s e

i

n g r e d i e n t s .

P rocedure :

Heat (A) and ( B ) t o 70C s e p a r a t e l y . S l o w l y a dd ( B ) t o (A)

w h i l e s t i r r i n g v i g o r o u s l y . Homogenize a ro un d 40C. Remove f r o m

t h e homogenizer a nd a l l o w t o c o o l t o 35C w h i l e s t i r r i n g . Add

( C ) and coo l t o 30C. Package.

Oil/W ater Found ation Lot ion

I n g r e d i e n t s :

A r l a c e l 165

C e ty l a1 coho1

L an ol n

T r i e t ha n ol am in e l a u r y l s u l f a t e

Wate r , de i on i zed

%w/w

6 . 0 0

0 . 5 0

0 . 5 0

1

. o o

92.00

Procedure:

a g i t a t i o n t o f or m t h e e mu ls io n. C on t i nu e a g i t a t i o n u n t i l

t em pe ra tu re d rops be l ow 60 deg. C .

H ea t i n g r e d i e n t s t o g e t h e r t o 9OC. Use c o n t i n u o u s v i g o r o u s

Oil/Water Foundation Lotion

I n q r e d i e n t s :

A S y n t h e t ic sperm acet i , Spermwax

A r l a c e l

165

B G l y c e r i n

Wate r , de i on i zed

* P r e s e r v a t i v e

q q . s .

t he se i n g r e d i e n t s .

&4J

5 . 0 0

12.00

5 . 0 0

78.00

Procedure :

moderate s t i r r i n g . S t i r t o 35C and add w at er l o s t due t o

e v a p o r a t i o n .

SOURCE: I C 1 S u r f a c t a n t s : S ug ge st ed F o r m u l a t i o n s

Heat (A) t o 70C. Heat ( B ) t o 72C. Add ( B ) t o ( A ) s l o w l y w i t h

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 313/553

Lotions

291

O il/W ater Em ol lient L ot ion

In g r e d i e n t s :

A O c t y l d i me th yl PABA

Benzophenone-3

Ar lamo l

E

S t e a r y l a l c o h o l

D imeth i cone

A r l a s o l v e 2 0 0

B r i j

7 2

B Water , de i o n i zed

Carbomer 934

C Sod ium hydrox ide

(10 W /W

aqueous)

D

* P r e s e r v a t i v e

*F ragrance

* q , s . t he s e i n g r e d i e n t s .

%w/w

7.00

3 . 0 0

7.00

2 . 5 0

1 - 0 0

3 . 1 0

3 . 9 0

7 2 . 1 0

0 . 2 0

0 . 2 0

Procedure :

65C and add ( 8 ) t o ( A) w i t h p r o p e l l e r a g i t a t i o n . S l o w ly add ( C )

a nd s t i r u n t i l u n i f o r m . C ool t o 50C an d ad d makeup w a t e r .

D i spe r se Carbomer i n wa te r and hea t 8) o 60C. Hea t (A ) t o

Oi l /Wate r Em o l l i en t L o t ion

I n g r e d i e n t s :

O c t y l di me th yl PABA

Ar lamol E

S t e a r y l a l c o h o l

Dimeth i cone

A r l a s o l v e 2 0 0

B r i j 72

Water, de i on i zed

Carbomer 934

Sodi

urn

h y d r o x i de ( 10% W / W aqueous)

* P r e s e r v a t i v e

*F ragrance

* q . s . t h e se i n g r e d i e n t s .

o ow w

5.00

7 .00

2 . 5 0

1 .00

3 . 1 0

3 . 9 0

77.10

0 . 2 0

0 . 2 0

Procedure:

65C and add ( B) t o ( A) w i t h p r o p e l l e r a g i t a t i o n . S l o w ly add ( C )

and s t i r u n t i l u n i f o r m . C oo l t o 50C an d a dd makeup w a t e r .

SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : S ug ge ste d F o r m u l a t i o n s

D i spe r se Carbomer i n wa te r and hea t (8 ) t o 60C. Hea t (A ) t o

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 314/553

292 Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations

Perfumed Body Lotion

T h i s creamy body l o t i o n r ub s i n e a s i l y and r e l i e v e s d r yn e ss .

S k i n i s l e f t f e e l i n g s o f t , smooth, and m o i s t u r i z e d . Geahlene

enhances t h e r i c h ne s s and m o i s t u r i z i n g p r o p e r t i e s o f t h i s

l o t i on.

Innred ient /T rade Name:

Deion ized Water

Carbomer/CarboDol 940

Pr op yl ene G1 y c o l

Methy lparaben

Panthenol /DL-Panthenol

M i n e r a l O i l (and) Hydrogenated Buty le ne /E th y lene /

Styr ene Copolymer (and) Hydrogenated Eth y le ne/

Pro py le ne/ Sty ren e Copolymer/ /Geahlene 750

P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l

Dicaprylate/Dicaprate//Myritol

PC

I s o s t e a r y l A l c o h o l / P r i s o r i n e 3515

Propy lparaben

C e t y l A l c o h o l / L a n e t t e 16

Gl yc er y l S t ea ra te (and) PEG-100 S t ea ra te /A r l ac e l 165

Dimeth icone/Dow Corn ing 2 0 0 , 100 cSt

Potass ium C et y l Phosphate/Amphiso l K

T o c o p h e r y l A c e t a t e / V i t a m i n E A c e t a t e

T r i e th an ol ami ne, 99%

D i azo1 i i n y l Urea/Germal

1

I

Soy Leci th in/Sedermasome

Fragrance

Wei ah t%

67.20

0 .2 0

7 . 0 0

0 . 2 0

0 .10

7.00

7 .00

2 . 0 0

0 .10

2 . 0 0

2.50

0 . 5 0

1 . 7 5

0.10

0 . 1 5

0 . 2 0

1 . o o

1 . o o

Procedure :

D i sp e rs e Carbomer i n t o r a p i d l y a g i t a t e d d e i o n i z e d w at e r.

Add rem a i n i ng p a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s . H eat t o 75-80C and m ix u n t i l

un i f o rm and l um p- f ree . Combine p a r t

B .

Heat t o 80C and mix

u n t i l a l l t h e s o l i d s a re d i s so lv ed . Add p a r t

B

t o p a r t A .

M i x f o r 30 m in u te s w i t h good a g i t a t i o n . Add p a r t C . M i x u n t i l

co m pl et el y smooth and homogeneous. Cool t o 50C. Add p a r t

D .

Cool t o 40C. Add p a r t

E .

C o n t i nu e m i x i n g a nd c o o l i n g t o 30C.

SOURCE: Penreco : Suggested Form u l a t i on

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 315/553

Lotions

293

Silk Protein Skin Lotion

1 .

2 .

3 .

4 .

5 .

6.

7.

8 .

9 .

M i n e r a l O i l

Mackester

SP

( G l y c ol S t e a r a t e M o d i f i e d )

E m u ls i f y in g Wax N.F.

G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e i3 PEG-100 Stearate

P o l y s o r b a t e 80

S o r b i t a n P a l m i t a t e

G l y c e r i n

Acetamide MEA 100%

Mackpro NSP ( O l e y l / P a l m i t y l / P a l m i t o l e a m i d o p r o p y l /

S i l k hyd rox yp r opy l Dimonium Ch l o r i de )

1O.Mackstat DM (DMDM Hydan to i n )

11 . F ragrance

12. De ion i zed Water

Wei Qht

. %

3.00

2.00

3 .00

2 .00

0 . 6 6

0 .60

2.00

1 . o o

2.50

q s

q s

q s

Procedure :

1 . M e l t 1 ,2 ,3 , 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, i n a s e p ar a te c o n t a i n e r t o 75 degrees C .

2 . I n t h e m i x i n g t a n k h e a t t h e w a te r #12 t o 78 de gr ee s C . and

3 . S t a r t m i x i n g and add t h e h o t m i x t u r e o f 1 t h r u 8 s l o w l y w i t h

4. Then s t a r t s lo w c o o l i n g w i t h good m i x i n g w i t h o u t a e r a t i o n .

5 . A t 45 degrees C . add

#10

and #11 and m ix i n .

6. Check pH and adjust i f needed t o 4 . 8 - 5 . 8 .

7 . M ix u n t i l c o o l .

add

#9.

good a g i t a t i o n and m ix w e l l f o r 20 m i nu tes .

Pearlescent Bath Lotion

Sodi um La ur y l Su l f a t e

Mackanate EL ( D i sod i urn La ur e t h Su l fo su cc i na te )

Mackam 35 HP (Cocam i dop ropy l Be ta i ne )

Mackester S P ( G l y c ol S t e a r a t e M o d i f i e d )

Sod ium Ch lo r ide

Macks ta t

DM (DMDM

Hydan to i n )

Water, Dye, Fragrance qs t o

Wei a h t ,%

40 .0

30.0

5 . 0

1 . 5

1 . o

0 . 5

100.0

Procedure:

1 .

Add f i r s t f o u r co mp on ents t o w at e r a nd h e a t t o 70C.

2 . B le nd u n t i l EGMS i s c o m p l e t e l y d i s p e r s e d .

3

Add sodium c h l o r i d e and co o l t o 45C.

4 . Add p r e s e r v a t i v e , f r a g r a n c e an d d y e .

5 . Cool t o room tempe ra tu re and f i l l .

SOURCE: M c I n t y r e Group Ltd.: Persona l Care Formu la ry

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 316/553

294

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Skin Care Body Lotion

T h i s p r o d u c t i m p a r ts good s k i n f e e l and has a h i g h q u a l i t y

appearance, t ho ug h t h e p r o d u c t i o n i s c o s t e f f e c t i v e . There a r e

a l s o b a r r i e r and m o i s t u r i z i n g p r o p e r t i e s wh ic h a c t a s a h i g h l y

e f f e c t i v e h y d r a t i o n system f o r a l l s k i n t yp e s. A f o rm u l a o f t h i s

t y p e a 1

s o

he1p reduce t r an se p i derma l wate r 1

o s s

.

O i l Phase:

C e t y l s t e a r y l A l c o h o l 1618 (P&G)

NF W h it e Beeswax ( K os te r Keunen)

L i g h t M i n e ra l O i l (W i t co )

I s o s t e a r i c A c i d (Unichema)

Amerchol L lOl (Amerchol )

Propy l Paraben (Su t t o n )

Water Phase:

Water ( D i s t i 11ed)

Glycer ine (Un ichema)

Po l y e th y l e ne G l yc o l 1450 (Un i on Ca rb i de )

Carboxymethy l C e l l u l o s e (CMC, He rcu les )

Carbopol 940 (BF Goodr ich)

Sodium Borate (Borax)

T r i et ha no l ami ne

( D o w )

Methy l Paraben (Su t ton)

3 . 5 0 %

1.50%

4.00%

1

.OO%

2 .00

0.20%

76.05%

6.00%

3 . 5 0 %

0.30

0.25%

0.50%

0 *

20%

0.20%

Procedure :

Add t o t h e w a te r p ha se un der a g i t a t i o n , i n or d e r; CMC u n t i l

d i s s o l v e d , t h e n p r o p y l p a r ab e n w h i l e m i x i n g . Add c a r b o p o l, m i x

t i l l homogeneous mak ing su re t h e r e a re no agglo mer at io ns. Then

t h e r e m a i n d e r o f t h e water phase components can be added, mix

and hea t t o 75C. Add a l l t h e o i l phase com ponents, hea t t i l l 75C.

and mi x . Add s l o w l y t h e o i l ph ase t o t h e w at er ph ase un de r a g i t a -

t i o n m a i n t a i n i n g a t e mp e r at u re o f 75C. When t h e o i l phase i s

added, c o o l and p o u r i n t o c o n t a i n e r .

Adap t i on

o f

f o rm u la and i t s i n f l u e n c e on t h e p r o du c t :

By r e d u c in g t h e c o n c e n t r a t i o n s o f m i n e r al o i l by 2 .0%,

p o l y e th y l e n e g l y c o l

1000

by 0 . 5% and t h e a d d i t i o n o f 2.5%

Es ca lo l 507 (Van Dyk) t h e cream

w i l l

t a k e on an SPF o f

6-8.

The p r o d u c t has t h e same a pp ea ra nc e, s k i n f e e l and s t a b i l i t y .

F ra gr an ce ca n a l s o b e added w i t h o u t a f f e c t i n g t e x t u r e .

SOURCE: Kos te r Keunen, I n c . : Suggested Fo rm u l a t i on

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 317/553

Lotions 295

Skin Moisturizing Lotion

Phase

A :

Percen t

P o l y p e n t a e r y t h r i t y l T e t r a l a u r a t e ( M i ra n o l E s t e r PO-LM4) 4 .0 0

G l yc e r y l S t ea ra te (and) PEG 100 S te a r a t e ( A r l a c e l 165 ) 5 .00

C a r n a t i o n

M i

n e r a l O i 1 3.50

I s o p r op y l M y r i s t a t e

2 .00

P ropy l ene G l yco l D i pe l a rgona te (Em eres t 2388) 1 - 0 0

Beeswax

2.00

S t e a r i c A c id

1

. o o

S t e a r y l A lc o h o l

0 .50

Cyc lometh icone (Dow Corn i ng F l u i d 344)

0 .50

Phase 8:

Water

Carbomer 934, 3% s o l u t i o n (Carb opol 934)

P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l

Phase

C :

T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e

Phase D:

Germaben 1 1 - E

6 7 - 7 0

7 . 5 0

3.50

0 . 8 0

1 - 0 0

Procedure:

a g i t a t i o n . Then add Phase C . Cool t o 40C and add Phase D .

Heat Phase A & Phase 8 se pa ra te l y t o 75C and add B t o A w i t h

Dry Skin Lot ion

Phase

A :

C e t y l A l c o h o l

E s t o l EHP 1543

Tr i ven t NP-13

C a r n a t i o n M i n e r a l

O i

1

DC S i l i c o n e

B r i j 58

B r i j 20

Phase

8 :

Dei on i zed water

Carbopol 940

Dermacry l -79

P r i c e r ine 9083

Tr th an o l ami ne (99%)

Phase C :

Germaben I 1 E

Phase D:

Fragrance

2.00%

2 . 0 0

4.00

1

. o o

1 . o o

1

. o o

1 . o o

81.50

0 .50

1

. o o

3.00

1

.oo

1 . o o

q . s .

SOURCE: Wi tco Co rp . : Pe t ro l eum S p e c i a l t i e s Group : Sugges ted

F o r m u l a t i o n s

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 318/553

296 Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations

Skin Softening Lotion

%

A . G ly ce ry l S te a ra te (and) PEG-100 St ea ra te (Lexemul 561) 3 .00

G l y ce ry l D i l a u r a te (Lexemu l GDL) 5 .00

Ce te ar y l A1 coho1 (and) Cet ear eth -20 (Lexemul CS-20) 3.0 0

P ropy lene G l y co l D i ca p r y l a te /D i ca p r a t e (Lexo l PG-865) 4.00

M i n e r a l O i l

2.50

Propy lparaben (Lexgard P) 0 .10

B. G l y c e r i n USP 3.00

Dei on i zed Water 76.13

Methy lparaben (Lexgard M) 0.25

C . Quatern ium-76 Hyd ro l yze d Col lag en (L ex ei n QX-3000) 3 .00

D. 2-Bromo-2-Ni t ro pr op an e- 1 ,3-Di 01 (Le xga rd Brono pol ) 0 . 0 2

Procedure:

1. Heat phase " A " and phase "B " t o 75C.

2. Add phase

" A "

t o phase B w i t h good a g i t a t i o n a t 75C.

3 . C o n ti n ue t o m ix w i t h g ood a g i t a t i o n a nd c o o l t o 50C.

4 . Add phase "C" t o "AB" and mix t i l l homogeneous.

5. When phase "ABC" i s be low 50C add phase D .

6. C o n ti n ue s a g i t a t i o n and c o o l t o 30C, t h e n f i l l .

Formula 297-86

Skin Lotion

T h i s m o i s t u r i z i n g l o t i o n a p p l i e s e f f o r t l e s s l y . The L exorez

100 adds an e l ega n t s k i n f e e l wh i ch a l s o may ac t as a p ro te c t an t

a i d .

9

A .

Oc ty l S t ea ra te (Lexo l EHS) 7 .50

Gl yc er y l S t ea ra te (and) PEG-100 S t ea ra te (Lexemul 561) 3 .5 0

G l y c e r i n / D i e t h y l e n e G l y c o l / A d i p a t e C ro ss po ly me r

(Lexorez

100)

2 .0 0

Propy lparaben (Lexgard P) 0 .05

B. Carbomer (Ca rbo pol 941) 0.3 0

Tr ie th an ol am in e NF (99%) 0.20

Methy lpara ben (Lexg ard M) 0 .1 5

Dei on i zed Water 86.30

Procedure :

1 . Hea t wa te r t o 70C and com bine i ng re d i e n t s o f Phase

B q l .

M i x

u n t i l a l l o f t h e Carbomer i s i n s o l u t i o n .

2 . I n a sepa ra te vesse l , m e l t componen ts

q f

phase " A " t o g e t h e r .

Heat t o 70C.

3 . S lo w l y add phase

A

t o phase B w i t h good a g i t a t i o n . M i x

w e l l u n t i l homogeneous.

4 . Be gin t o c o o l . Co nt inu e a g i t a t i o n u n t i l m i x tu r e i s a t ambien t

t e m p e r a t u r e t h e n

f i l l .

5 . A d j u s t f o r wa te r loss.

Formula SK-114

SOURCE: I no l ex Chem i ca l C o . : Suggested Formulat ions

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 319/553

Lot ions

297

Sof t S i lky Lo t ion

P a r t ( A ) :

Rosswax 63-0412

Rosswax 1641

Rosswax 63-0212

Ross Lo t i on

O i l

2745

P a r t

( e ) :

Water

Propy lene G lyco l

Germaben I 1

T r i

et h an ol ami ne

P a r t (C):

Fragrance

GMS-SE

1 . 6

1 . 2

1

. o

2 . 1

9 . 4

78.0

4 . 7

1 . o

1

. o

q . s .

Procedure:

Hea t Pa r t (A ) and Pa r t ( B ) t o 170F i n s e p a r a t e s team j a c k -

e t e d k e t t l e s u nd er a g i t a t i o n . When f u l l y h ea te d, add P a r t ( A )

t o P a rt (B) unde r a g i t a t i o n . Coo l t o 130F, F rag rance and

package.

Low Cost Low Solids Lotion

Water

Carbomer 934

Rosswax 573

GMS SE

Jo j oba O i

1

Dow Corn ing S i l i c o n e 344

T r i e tha no l ami ne

Perfume

Pr e se rv at iv e Germaben

I 1

P a r t s

bv

Wei q h t

500 .0g r .

4 . 0 g r .

4 . 0 g r .

4 . 0 g r .

3 . 0 g r .

6 . 0 g r .

4 . 0 g r .

q . s .

9 , s .

Procedure:

Hea t t h e wa te r under a g i t a t i o n and s l ow l y add t h e Carbomer

934. When f u l l y mixed add t h e 573, GMS, Jo job a

O i l

and S i l i c o n e

have been b l e n de d i n a s e p a r a t e k e t t l e m a i n t a i n i n g a t em p e ra t ur e

of

140F. As soon a s a l l t h e i n g r e d i e n t s h av e been mi xe d w e l l add

th e p r es e r va t i v es , t h e Pe rfum e, and add t h e TEA, unde r h i gh ag i t -

a t i o n , co ol t o

120F

and package.

SOURCE: Frank

8 .

R o s s Co., I n c . : S ug ge st ed F o r m u l a t i o n s

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 320/553

298

Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations

Strawberry Hand Lot ion

Water

Carbomer 934

A p r i c o t O i l L i p o v a l P

Rosswax 573

Coconut O i l #76

GMS-SE

Ross J o j o b a O i 1

T EA

Germaben I 1

Fragrance DO-60

Par ts bv Wei qht

568 . Ogr

2.

Ogr

4. Ogr

16 .0gr

4 . 0 g r

16 .0gr

4 .0g r

4. Ogr

6. Ogr

q . s .

Procedure :

H ea t t h e w a te r t o 60C u nd er a g i t a t i o n a nd s l o w l y add t h e

Carbomer 934. When t h e wa te r i s f u l l y m i xed, add t h e 573,

GMS,

A p r i c o t O i l , Coconut O i l and Jo joba O i l t ha t have been hea ted

t o 65C i n a s ep a ra te k e t t l e . As soon as t h e o i l ph ase has be en

mixed w e l l , add t h e Germaben 1 1 , t h e f r a g r a n c e , and t h e n t h e TE A

under h i g h a g i t a t i o n .

Cool

t o 55C f o r f i l l i n g .

Apricot Hand Lotion

Water

Carbomer 934

A p r i c o t O i l - L i p o v a l P

Rosswax 573

Coconut O i l #76

Ross Jo joba O i l

T E A

Germaben I1

Fragrance GK-17

GMS-SE

Pa r t s by Wei qh t

568. Ogr

2 .

Ogr

4 . Ogr

16 .0g r

4. Ogr

16 .0g r

4 .0gr

4. Ogr

6 Ogr

9 , s .

Procedure :

H ea t t h e w a te r t o 60C un de r a g i t a t i o n a nd s l o w l y a d d t h e

Carbomer 934. When th e water i s f u l l y m ixed, add t h e 573, GMS,

A p r i c o t O i l , Coconut O i l and Jo joba O i l t ha t have been hea ted

t o 65C i n a s e p a r at e k e t t l e . As s oon a s t h e O i l Phase has been

m ix ed w e l l , add t o t h e Water Phase w i t h a g i t a t i o n . When f u l l y

mixe d, add t h e Germaben I 1 and t h e n t h e TEA u nd er h i g h a g i t -

a t i o n , t he n f ra g ra nc e . Cool t o 55C f o r f i l l i n g .

SOURCE: Frank 8 . Ross

Co.,

I n c , : S ug ge ste d F o r m u l a t i o n s

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 321/553

Lotions

299

Super Moisturizing Lotion

Th i s s i 1 k y - f e e l i g emu1 s i o n i s t a b i 1 e d a nd t h i c k e n e d u s i n g

a s y n e rg i s t i c com b i na t i on o f Veegum Magnesium A luminum S i l i c a t e

and Rhodigel Xanthan Gum. I t a l s o c o n t a i n s t h e sodium s a l t o f

p y r r o l i d o n e c a r b o x y l ic a c i d as a n a t u r a l m o i s t u r i z i n g f a c t o r

a lo ng w i t h t h e w e l l known h um ec ta nt , g l y c e r i n e . T h i s l o t i o n

s pr ea ds e a s i l y and i s q u i c k l y a bs or be d l e a v i n g t h e s k i n m o i s t

and supp le .

I n Q r e d i e n t :

A

Veegum

Rhodi ge l

Dei o n i zed Water

B Sodium PCA ( 2 )

G l y c e r i n e

C Hydrogenated Po ly i sobu tene ( 3 )

M i n e r a l

O i l

( an d) L a n o l i n A l c o h ol ( 4 )

C e t y l A l c o h o l

I s o p r op y l M y r i s t a t e

S o r b i t a n P a l m i t a t e

Po l yso rba te 40

P r es e r va t i v e , Dye, Frag rance

D

C i t r i c A c id t o pH 5 .5

%

bv

W t .

1

. o

0 .5

74 .5

3 . 0

5 . 0

4.0

3 . 0

2 .0

2 . 0

1 . 2

3 . 8

q . s .

q . s .

( 2 ) A j i d e w

N - 5 0

( 3 ) Po l ysyn l ane

( 4 ) Amerchol L-101

P r e p a r a t i o n :

Dry b len d Veegum and Rhod ige l and add t o t h e wate r , m i x i ng

w i t h maximum a v a i l a b l e shear u n t i l smooth and un i f o r m . Add B

i n g r e d i e n t s and m ix u n t i l d i s s o l v e d . M ix C i n g r e d i e n t s and h e at

t o 50C u n t i l a u n i f o r m c l e a r m i x t ur e i s o b ta i ne d . Add C t o ( A + B )

w i t h h i g h speed m i x i n g . A v o id i n c o r p o r a t i n g a i r . Cool w i t h con-

t i n u o us s t i r r i n g t o 30C and add

D .

C o n s i s te n c y : Medium V i s c o s i t y L o t i o n ( V i s c o s i t y : 1900-2400 c p s )

Suggested Packag ing : P l a s t i c squeeze b o t t l e o r pump.

Comments:

T h i s p r o t o t y p e f o r m u la i s d es ig ne d t o s e r ve a s a g ui de f o r

t h e deve lopment o f new prod uc ts o r improvement

o f

e x i x t i n g ones.

SOURCE: R . T , V a n d e r b i l t Co., I n c . : F o r m u l a t io n N o . 4 3 7

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 322/553

3 Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations

TRF Facial Lotion

Phase A :

Cetea ry l A l coh o l ( and) Ce tea re th -20

S o r b i t a n S t e a r a te ( A r l a c e l

6 0 )

S t e a r i c Ac id , t r i p l e pressed

G l yc e r y l S tea ra te (Em eres t 2400)

C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l

C e t y l A c e t a t e ( an d) A c e t y l a t e d L a n o l i n A l c o h ol

C12-15 A lc o ho ls Benzoate ( F i n so lv TN)

PPG-15 St e a r y l E t he r ( Ar la mol E)

D i methi cone

C a r n a t i o n M i n e r a l

O i

1

Phase B:

Carbomer 941 ( 2 % Di sp . ) (Ca rbopol 941 )

Magnesi urn Aluminum S i 1i ate (Veegum)

P ot as si um H y d ro x id e ( p e l l e t s )

Te tr as od i um EDTA

G l y c e r i n

Water

Phase C :

T i ssue R es p i r a t o r y F ac to rs (B iodynes TRF)

Germaben

I 1

Fragrance

Percent

0.80

0 .50

0 . 5 0

1 . o o

1.40

0 . 5 0

0 .40

0 . 4 0

0 .20

3 . 0 0

7 .50

0 . 3 0

0 . 1 5

0 . 1 0

3 .00

78 .55

0.70

0 . 5 0

0 .50

Procedure:

Mel t Phase

A

t o 75C. Hea t wa te r t o 70C and d i sp e r se t h e

Veegum. Add t h e Carbopo l s l u r r y and t h e g l y c e r i n and E D T A .

Add t o Phase A and add t h e po t ass ium hydro x ide . Coo l t o 50C

and add Phase

C .

Facial Moistur izing Lot ion (W/O)

I n q r e d i e n t s :

C a r n a t i o n

M i

n e r a l O i 1

A l do MCT

Synthet ic Beeswax

L a n o l i n

Pol y a l do 10-6-0

Deion ized Water

Sodi um B o r a t e

G l y d a n t P l u s

Wt.

40.00

2 . 0 0

10.00

1 .00

2 . 5 0

43.90

0 . 6 0

q . s

SOURCE: Wi tco Co rp . : Pe tro leum S p e c i a l t i e s Group : Suggested

F o r m u l a t i o n s

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 323/553

  otions

3 1

Ultra Moistur iz ing Lot ion

T h i s creamy, o i l - i n - w a t e r e mu ls io n i s t h i ck e n e d and s t a b i l i z e d

w i t h a s y n e r g i s t i c com b i na t i on o f Veegum U l t r a and Carbom er. The

w el l - kn ow n h um ectan t g l y c e r i n p e r f or m s t h e m o i s t u r i z i n g f u n c t i o n .

Veegum U l t r a a l s o e nhances t h e w h i te n e s s and b r i g h t n e s s o f t h e

e m u ls i on and h e l p s a d j u s t t h e

pH

t o ap pro xim a te t h a t o f t h e s k i n .

The l o t i o n sp re ad s e a s i l y and i s r a p i d l y absorbed, l e a v i n g t h e

s k i n m o i s t and s u p p l e .

I n a r e d i e n t

:

%

b y

W t .

A

Veegum

U1

t r a (Magnesi um A1 umi num S i 1i a t e ) 0 . 15

Carbomer 980 ( 2 ) 0 .1 5

Dei on i zed Water 73. 70

B G l y c e r i n 5 .0 0

C

M i n e r a l

O i l

( an d ) L a n o l i n A l c o h o l ( 3 )

C e t y l A l c o h o l

I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e

Hydrogenated Po ly i sobu tene 4 )

I s o p ro p y l M y r i s t a t e

S o r b i t a n P a l m i t a t e

P o l y s o r b a t e

40

D P r e s e r v a t i v e , F r a g r a n c e

Sodium H y d r o x id e , (10% S o l u t i o n ) t o pH 6 . 0

4 . 0 0

2.00

2 .00

5.00

3 .00

1 .20

3.80

( 2 )

Carbopol 980

( 3 ) Amerchol L-101

( 4 ) Po l ysyn l ane

Dry b l en d Veegum U l t r a and Carbomer and add them s l o w ly t o t h e

Procedure:

w at er w h i l e s t i r r i n g w i t h a p r o p e l l e r m ix e r a t 700 rpm. I nc re as e

t h e m i xe r speed t o 1500-1700 rpm and co n t i nu e m i x i ng f o r 30

minutes. Add

B

and m ix 5 m inu tes . M ix C i n g r e d i e n t s a n d h e a t

t o 50C. Hea t (A and

6)

m i x tu r e t o

5 0 C .

Add

C

t o (A and B ) and mix

a t 50C and 1500-1700 rpm f o r 10 m in u te s . S low th e m ixer t o 1000

rpm w h i l e c o o l i n g t o 30C. Add D and m ix u n t i l u n i f o r m .

P ro du ct C h a r a c t e r i s t i c s :

V i s c o s i t y : 2200-2800 cps

pH: 6.0+-0.2

Comments:

the deve lopment o f new pr od uc ts o r t h e improvement o f e x i s t i n g

ones.

SOURCE: R.T. V a n d e r b i l t C o . ,

Inc.:

Formula

No.

450

T h i s p r o t o t y p e f o r m u la i s de s ig n ed t o s e r ve as a g u id e f o r

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 324/553

3 2

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Un-Buffered Alpha Hydroxy Acid Lotion

The r e s u l t i n g p ro du ct i s a t h i n l o t i o n t h a t wou ld b e

c om pa t i b l e f o r use i n a g la s s o r r i g i d p l a s t i c b o t t l e . The

f o r m u l a t i o n c o n t a i n s L a c t i c Ac id , as t h e a lp h a hy dr ox y a c i d

(AHA), a t a use l e v e l o f app rox i m a te l y 4 .5%.

A . Deion ized Water

Methy lparaben (Lexgard M )

2 ,4 -D i ch l o robenzy l A l coho l (M yaci de S P )

80.50

0 .20

0 .20

B . G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e ( an d ) S t e a r a mi d o e t hy l D i e t h y l a m i n e

(Lexemul AR)

1 .50

Gl yc er y l S t ea ra te (and) PEG-100 S t ea ra te (Lexemul 561) 1 .5 0

G l yc e r y l S t ea ra te (Lexemu l 515)

4.00

C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e ( L e xo l GT-865)

3 . 00

Steara midop ropy l D imeth y lamin e (Lexamine S-13) 2 .00

M i n e r a l O i l NF ( L i g h t )

2 .00

Propy lparaben (Lexgard P )

0.10

C . L a c t i c A c id (88%) 5 .00

Procedure :

1 . Combine sec t ion " A " he a t i ng t o 75-8OC. Use a p r o p e l l e r m i xe r

2 . Combine sec t ion "B " h e a t i n g t o 80-85C. A g i t a t e s l o w l y w i t h

3 . When sect ions " A " & "BI I ar e homogeneous and a t t h e d es ig -

4. Reduce m i x i n g speed d u r i n g c o o l i n g t o p r e v e n t v o r t e x i n g .

5 . A t 55-60C add s e c t i o n C t o s e c t io n s AB .

f o r a g i t a t i o n .

a p r o p e l l e r m i x e r .

na ted t em pera tu res s l ow l y add "B' l t o " A " , t h e n b e g in c o o l i n g .

6 . A t 45C a d j u s t f o r w a t e r

loss.

7. M i x t o room tem pera tu re .

P h y s i c a l P r o p e r t i e s :

V i s c o s i t y :

700

cPs 24C ( B r o o k f ie

pH:

2 . 3

24C

24 hour sample

SOURCE:

Inolex

Chemical Co. : For mul at

d RVT, T A 10 rpm)

.

o n

398-30-3

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 325/553

Lotions

303

W/O Lo t ion

A .

Mig lyo l 840 Ge l

B

M i g l yo l 840

M i g l y o l 812

Ar l ace l 481

Ar l ace l 989

I s o p r o p y l m y ri s t a t e

Vase1 i e

6 . G l y c e r o l

Magnesi um s u l p h a te

Carbopol 934

Water

C .

Perfume

P r e s e r v a t i v e

%

4 . 0

7 . 5

5 . 0

3 . 0

5 . 0

5 .0

2 . 0

5 0

0 7

0 . 2

t o

1 0 0 . 0

Prepa ra t i n

:

The c o n s t i t u e n t s o f A . a r e mixed and hea ted t o 75-8OC.

Those o f B . a r e mixe d w i t h a h i g h speed s t i r r e r , h ea te d t o

th e same tem pera tu re and em u l s i f i ed , i n sm a l l amoun ts, i n A .

w i t h t h e h i gh speed s t i r r e r . C . i s added a t a pp r ox . 3 0 C .

Body Lotion

A . M i g l yo l 840

I m w i t o r 960 f l a k e s

Marlophor T10

N a

s a l t

C e t y l a l c o h o l

B . H o s t a c e r i n g e l 1%*

K a r i o n F

Water

C . Perfume

P r e s e r v a t i v e

7 . 0

4 . 0

2 . 0

0 . 3

12 .5

5 . 0

t o 100 .0

qs

qs

P r e p a r a t i o n

The c o n s t i t u e n t s o f A . a r e mixed and hea ted t o 75-8OC. Those

o f 6. a r e b r o u g ht t o t h e same t e mp e r at u re and g r a d u a l l y s t i r r e d

i n t o

A . C .

i s i n c o rp o r a t e d a t a pp rox. 3 0 C .

* P re p a ra t io n o f t h e H o s t a c e r i n g e l : H o s ta c e ri n PN 73 1

. O%

Water t o

100.0%

The H o s t a c e r i n i s mi xe d w i t h w a t e r u n t i l homogeneous a nd t h e

m ix tu re s t i r r e d u n t i l t h e g e l i s c l e a r .

SOURCE: H u l s A me ri ca I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n s for Cosmet ics : Formulas

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 326/553

3 4 Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations

W/O Lotion with Eldew

I n a r ed i en ts /T rade Name: YO by Weight

P a r t

A :

D i - ( C h o l e s t e r y l , b e he ny l , o c t y l d o d e c y l )

N-La uroy l -L -g lu tam ic a c i d es te r / E ldew CL-301

2 . 0 0

Ce te a r y l Oc tanoa te 10 .00

C12-C l5 A lky l Benzoate 5 . 0 0

Phenoxyethanol 0 .60

Tocophery l Ace ta te 0 . 0 5

P a r t B :

P o l y g l y c e r y l - 4 I s o s t e a r a t e (a nd ) C e t y l D i me t hi c on e

Copo ly o l (and) Hexy l Laura te

5 . 0 0

C e t y l D i m e t hi c o n e 3 . 0 0

P a r t C :

Dei o n i zed Water 65.55

Sod i um Ch l o r i de

0 . 8 0

Gl yc e r i n (99 .5%) 5 .00

P a r t i a l l y D e a ce t y l a te d C h i t i n ( l . O % ) / M a r i n e Dew 2 .0 0

Methy lparaben 0.20

Procedure :

A . P r e - m e l t p a r t D by h e a t i n g t o 50 degrees

C .

Add

t o

p a r t C .

S l ow l y add Pa r t

C

and

D

m i x t u re t o P a r t s A and

B

w i t h h i gh

shear m i x i ng .

P a r t

D :

Bu ty len e G1 yc o l 0 . 8 0

P r e - m e l t p a r t A a t 50 degrees Cen t i g rade . Add pa r t B t o p a r t

Appearance: Whi te , smooth, sh in y l o t i o n pH: 6 .0 -6 .5

V i scos i t y : 20 ,000 -20 ,000 ( R V T #6

@

lOrpm @ 25 degrees C)

I n g r e d i e n t s : % Weight

Phase A :

M i n e r a l

O i l 5 . 0 0

Am i te r LGOD 2 . 0 0

P r o p y le n e G l y c o l S t e a r a t e 0 . 5 0

PEG-5 Hyd rog ena ted C as to r O i l 1

. 5 0

PEG-5 G l yc e ry l S te ar a t e

2 . 5 0

A m i

hope-LL 3 . 0 0

Phase B:

A cy l g l utamate HS-1

1

0 . 3 0

Carbomer 941 0 . 2 0

Sodi um H yd ro x i de

0 . 0 8

B u t y le n e G l y c o l 5 . 0 0

Water 79.62

Mild Lotion with Amihope

Bu ty l pa raben 0 .10

Methy lparaben

0 . 2 0

Procedure :

Add a l l o t h e r i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase B t o t h e s o l u t i o n and

d i s s o l v e a t 75 t o

80

d e g r e e s c e n t i g r a d e .

b o t h ph as es a r e a t BO d eg re es c e n t i g r a d e add A t o B w i t h

a g i t a t i o n .

SOURCE: A j i n o m o t o USA, I n c . : Su gg es ted F o r m u l at i o n

D i s s o l v e Carbomer 941 and Sodium H y d r o x id e i n w a t e r f i r s t .

D isso lve Phase A i n g r e d i e n t s a t BO d eg re es c e n t i g r a d e . When

Coo l down t o room tem pera tu re wh i l e co n t i n u i ng m i x i ng .

T h i s l o t i o n h as a smooth f e e l i n g a nd good s p r e a d a b i l i t y .

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 327/553

Section VIII

Shampoos

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 328/553

306 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Acid Balanced Conditioning Shampoo

Wei

TEA L a u ry l Su l f a t e (40%)

Mackam 35HP (Cocamidopropy l Be ta ine)

Mackalane

426

( I s o s t e a r a m i d op r o p y l M o r p h o l i n e L a c t a t e )

M a cks ta t

DM (DMDM

Hyd a n to i n )

Water , Dye, F rag rance qs t o

Procedure :

1 . Add components t o wate r and hea t t o 40 degrees

C .

2. B len d u n t i l c l e a r .

3 . A d j u s t pH t o 4.0 w i t h c i t r i c a c i d .

4. Cool and f i 11.

All

Purpose

Shampoo

ht,96

35.0

10.0

6.0

q s

00 0

Mackadet SBC-8

( M i

I d B len d)

Sod ium Ch lo r ide

M a cks ta t

DM (DMDM

Hyd a n to i n )

Water , Dye, Frag ranc e qs t o

Weiah t ,%

20 .0

qs

q s

100.0

Procedure :

1 . Add Mackadet SBC-8 t o w at er and b l e nd u n t i l c l e a r .

2. Add M a cks ta t DM and a d j us t v i s c o s i t y t o 2000-3000 cps w i t h

3.

Add dy e, f r a g r a n c e , and b l e n d u n t i l c l e a r .

s odiu m c h l o r i d e .

Aloe Vera Gel Shampoo

A l o e V er a Gel L i q u i d (1:l)

Water

Mackernium

007

( P o l y q u a t e r n i u m

7 )

Mackadet SBC-8 (Mi I d Bl en d)

M a cks ta t DM (DMDM Hyd an to in )

F rag rance , Dye qs t o

Wei q h t

%

5 0 . 0

14.5

3.0

32.0

qs

100.0

Procedure :

1

Disperse Mackern ium 007

i n

wa te r a nd A lo e Vera L i q u i d .

2. Add Mackadet SBC-8 and h ea t t o 45 degrees C .

3. Blen d u n t i l homogeneous.

4. A d j us t v i s c o s i t y w i t h s odium c h l o r i d e .

5 . Add r e m a in i n g com ponents a nd b l e n d u n t i l c l e a r .

6 .

Cool and f i l l .

SOURCE: M c In t y re G rou p L t d . : Pe rso na l Care F o rm u la ry

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 329/553

Shampoos

307

Aloe Vera Shampoo

A .

8.

C .

I n s r e d i e n t s :

D .

I. ater

Al oe V er age l 200 Powder

Sod ium Ch lor ide

H y d r ol y z e d a ni ma l p r o t e i n

Sodi

u m

1 a u r y l s u l f a t e

C i t r i c a c i d

F rag rance

D . M . D . M .

Hyd a n to i n

G e rm al l 115 (p r e se rva t i v e )

R i chami de 1

i

u i d

Pe rce n t

64 .04

0.1

1 .3

1

. o

26 .0

0 .40

0 .1 5

0.20

0.10

6.0

Procedure :

Phase A . Blen d to g et he r . Add Phase

C

a n d m ix t o g e th e r .

Mix Phase ' I A t o g e th e r . M i x Ph a se

Btl

t o g e t h e r and add t o

Aloe Vera Premium-Type Shampoo with Protein

I n n r e d i e n t s :

A l oe V er ag el 1 : l

C y c l o r y l WAT

C y c l o t e r i c BET-C3O

Pepte in 2000

Cyc l omi de DC212S

NaCl

C i t r i c A c i d

Per fum e, P re s e rv a t i ve , Co lo r

Percen t

28 .0

60.0

5.0

1

. o

4 .0

1

.o

q . s .

q . s .

Procedure :

Warm A lo e Ver ag el and

WAT

t o 40C, and b l e n d i n i n g r e d i e n t s

as l i s t e d . A d ju s t v i s c o s i t y w i t h NaCl a nd a d j u s t pH w i t h C i t r i c

A c i d .

SOURCE:

D r . M a d i s L a b o r a t o r i e s I n c . : Sugges ted Fo rmu la t ions

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 330/553

3 8

osmetic nd Toiletry Formulations

Anti-Dandruff Lotion Shampoo

Weight,%

P a r t A :

Veegum

1

. o

Met ho cel FYM

0.8

Water qs t o 10 0. 0

P a r t B :

Sodium O l e f i n Su l f o n a te (40%) 3 5 . 0

Mackamide LLM (Lauramide DEA) 4 .0

Mackamide S (Soyamide DEA) 1

. o

Mackpro NLP (Qua te rn ium-79 Hyd ro ly zed Anima l P r o t e in )

( N at u ra l L i p i d P r o t e i n ) 2 . o

P a r t C:

Z in c Omadine (48%) 4 .0

Procedure :

1 .

Thor ough ly d i s pe r s e Veegum

i n

wate r a t 70 deg rees

C .

2 . Then s l o w l y add Methocel FYM and b le n d u n t i l homogeneous.

3. Add Par t B t o P a r t A and a d j u s t pH t o 6 - 5 w i t h c i t r i c a c i d .

4. Add Zi nc Omadine and b l en d u n t i l homogeneous.

Anti-Dandruff Shampoo Cream Type

Sod i um L au r y l S u l f a t e (30%)

Mackam 35HP (Cocamidopropyl Betaine)

Sod ium Ch lor ide

T r i p l e P re ss ed S t e a r i c A c i d

Mackamide LLM (Lauramide DEA)

P ro p y le n e G l yco l

Z i n c P y r i t h i o n e ( 4 8 % )

Mackami de PK (P al mk erne l ami de DEA)

C au s t ic Soda (50%)

M a cks ta t

DM

(DMDM Hydan to in )

Water, Dye, Fragrance

qs

t o

Weiaht.%

61 . 8

10 .0

7.0

5 .0

4 . 0

4.0

4 . 0

2.0

1 . 6

qs

100.0

Procedure :

1.

Heat s t e a r i c ac i d , Mackamide LLM, Mackamide

PKM

and p ropy lene

2 . Heat

SLS,

Mackam 35HP, Sodium C h l o r i d e , C a u s t i c Soda and wa te r

3 . Add o i l t o w a te r and c o o l t o 55 d eg re es

C .

4. S l o w l y add Z i n c P y r i t h i o n e .

5. Cool t o 45 d e gre es

C .

and add remaining components.

6. F i l l a t 40 de gr ees

C .

SOURCE: Mc In ty re Group L t d . : Pe rsona l Care Fo rmu la ry

g l y c o l t o 70 de gr ee s C .

t o 70 d eg ree s C .

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 331/553

Shampoos 309

Anti-Dandruff Shampoo

A n t i - d a n d r u f f shampoo: w i t h c o n d i t i o n i n g a c t i o n c o up le d

w i t h n a t u r a l suspens ion r e s u l t i n g i n c o s m e t ic a l l y e l e g an t ,

h i g h l y e f f i c a c o u s a n t i - d a n d r u f f shampoo.

I n q r e d i e n t s :

%w/w

1 .

Sodium Laure th -3 S u l f a t e (S tand -

apo l ES-3) 57.6 9

2 . Pa t i o n i c ISL/8 5* 3 .0 0

3 . R i t a

EGDS

( G l y c o l D i s t o a r a t e )

3 . 0 0

4 . Propy lene G lyco l 2 . 00

5. Zi nc Omadine 2. 00

6 . R i tavena-5 (Hyd ro ly zed Oat F l ou r ) 4 .50

7 . F rag rance 0 .25

8 . Pa t l ac LA (44%) ( L a c t i c Ac d ) 0 .40

9 .

D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 2 7. 16

*

So d iu m I so s te a ro y l L a c t y

F u n c t i o n

L a t h e r , C l e a n i n g

C o n d i t i o n i n g ,

Deposi t i

n

O p a c i t y , S ta b i 1i y

S ta b i 1i y

A c t i e

Suspensi

on,

C1 ean Feel

Odor

pH Adjustment

- - - -

a t e

@

85% i n P ro p y le n e G l yco l

Compounding Procedure:

Pre-m ix i tem s 1 t o 4 a t 165F. Add i te m 5 w i t h h

m ix i n g . Hyd ra te i t e m 6 i n 210F wa te r . Coo l t o 1 65F

Cool t o 120F. Add perfume and a d j u s t pH and v is c os

Re f .

No.

113-141C

gh sheer

and mix .

t Y .

Cleaning Shampoo Type

Clear viscous shampoo designed for oi ly hair types.

I n q r e d i e n t s :

1 . Ammonium Lau ry l S u l f a t e ( Step ano l

AM

1

apol EA-2)

2. Ammonium La ur et h S u l f a t e (St and-

3. 01 eamidopropyl B et a i ne ( M i r a t a i ne

4 . R i t a l o e 40X (A l oe Vera Ge l )

5 .

P a t i o n i c IS L (Na I s o s t e a r o y l

6 . Kathon

CG

7 . F ra g ra n ce

-

Squeeky Clean #165-047

8. C i t r i c A c i d (50% S o l n . )

9. D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Wter

BET-0-30)

L a c t y l a t e )

%w/w F u n c t i o n

30.0 0 C1 eani ng, La th er

2 5 .0 0 C le a n in g , L a th e r

6 .0 0

M il dn es s, V i s c o s i t y

0 .5 0

No

S t a t i c F l y - A w a y

2 . 5 0 M i l d n e s s , C o n d i t i o n i n g

0 . 3 0 P r e s e r v a t i o n

0.03 Odor

q .s .pH Ad justment

35 .67 ----

Compounding Procedure:

u n i f o r m i t y . Cool t o 120F and add p r e s e r va t i ve and pe r fu m e.

Ad jus t pH i f n ec es sa ry t o 5 . 8 .

To

t h e w a t e r add i n g r e d i e n t s 1 t o 5 . H eat t o 165F. M i x t o

R e f .

N o .

118-69

SOURCE: R. I .T .A . Ca rp . : Sug ge sted F o rm u la t i o n s

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 332/553

31 Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations

Anti-Dandruff Shampoos

  40/39:

Zeteso l 856 T 25.0%

Amphotensid 4 4.0 %

0 i o - s u l p h u r CLR 1 O

Water , perfume, sod ium c h l o r i d e ,

p r e s e r v a t i v e

q . s .

t o make 100.0%

0 41/24:

Ze te so l 856T 20.0%

P e r l g l anzmi t t e l GM 41 75 4. 0%

Condi pon 4.0%

An t i -d a n d ru f f -Usn a t A 0 2.0%

Perfume 0.3%

W at er , s od iu m c h l o r i d e , p r e s e r v a t i v e

q . s .

t o make 100.0%

41/26:

Zetesol 2056

Amphotensid 4

P e r l g l a n z m i t t e l GM 4175

A n t i - d a n d r u f f - U s n a t

A 0

Perfume

W a t e r , p r e s e r v a t i ve

28.0%

8.0%

4.0%

2.0%

0.5%

9,s. o make 100.0%

Shampoos for Greasy Hair

0

40/56:

Zeteso l 856 T

M u l s i f a n RT 275

Pu r to n

SFD

Water , p e rfu me , p r e s e r va t i ve

41/27:

Zetesol 2056

Amphotensid 4

P e r l g l a n z m i t t e l

GM

4175

M u l s i f a n RT 275

Perfume

W a t e r , p r e s e r v a t i v e

30.0%

2.0%

1

.O

q . s . t o make

100.0%

28.0%

8.0%

4.0%

1 .O

0.5%

q . s .

t o

make 100.0%

SOURCE: Zschimmer & Schwarz GmbH: Suggested Formula t ions

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 333/553

Shampoos 311

Antidandruff Shampoo

M a t e r i a l s :

1 . Deio n ize d Water

2. Bentone

MA

R h eo lo g ic a l A d d i t i v e

3 . Methoce l E 4M Premium

4. Z i n c Omadine 48%

5. Super Amide GR

6 .

Standapol

T

7 . T r i e th a n o la m in e

8. Co lo r and Fragrance

% bv Weight

48.55

1 . o o

0.75

4.20

4.00

3 8 . 0 0

3 . 0 0

0 . 5 0

M a n u fa c tu r i n g D i r e c t i o n s :

1 .

H eat D e i o n iz e d Water t o 70C, and w i t h r a p i d s t i r r i n g , add

Bentone MA a d d i t i v e s l o w l y and m ix i t f o r 20 m in u te s or

u n t i l homogeneous. M a in ta i n t h e t e m p e ra tu re t h ro u g h s t e p 4 .

s t i r r i n g .

2. Add Methocel and mix i t f o r 15 m i nu t es w i t h c o nt i n uo u s

3 . Add Z i n c Omadine and mix f o r 5 m i n u t e s .

4. Reduce t h e s t i r r e r speed and a t low speed add Super Amide GR.

5 . T u r n o f f t h e h e a t and w h i l e c o o l i n g , add S ta nd ap ol T . M i x f o r

6 . Add T r i e t ha no la mi ne and c o l o r s o l u t i o n , s t i r s l o w l y u n t i l

M ix f o r 10 m i n u t e s .

15 minu tes a t low speed.

m ix ed . A d j u s t t h e w a t e r l o s s and c o o l

i t

t o room te m p e ra tu re .

Add f r ag r a nc e and mix

i t

SOURCE: Rheox, I n c a : F o r m u l a t i o n T S- 261

Protein Shampoo

Deio n ize d Water

Busan 1504

Panthenol

D i sod i um EDTA

C i t r i c A c id

Aloe Vera

200X

Sod i um Laur e th - 2 S u l f a t e

Cocamide DEA

Cocami dop rop yl B e ta i ne

Hyd ro l yze d Co l l a g e n P ro te i n -5 5 %

42.85

0 . 1 0

0.25

0 . 0 5

0 . 2 0

0.05

42.00

4.00

5 .50

5 . 0 0

Procedure :

s o l ve d . F o l l o w w i t h r e m ai n i ng i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r shown,

m i x i n g w e l l betw een each a d d i t i o n .

SOURCE:

Buckman Lab or a t o r ie s I n c . : Suggested Fo rm u la t i on

Add Busan 1504 p r e s e r v a t i v e i n t o w a t e r , and m ix u n t i l d i s -

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 334/553

312 osmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Balsam Protein Shampoo

I n g r e d i e n t s :

A C P

1052 (shampoo base)

Water

Hyd ro ly zed Co l l agen (Hormel -Pepte in 2000x1)

Balsam

B NaCl

Procedure :

B

31.50

67 .20

0 . 2 5

0 . 2 5

0 . 8 0

Add wa te r t o shampoo base w i t h moderate ag i t a t i o n . Add

P r o t e i n and ba ls am w i t h m od er at e a g i t a t i o n . S l o w ly a dd s a l t

under f a s t e r s t i r r i n g t o b u i l d v i s c o s i t y .

Formula

C P

1060

Balsam Protein Shampoo

I n g r e d i e n t s :

A G- 9 6 0 0 (shampoo base)

Water

Hyd ro ly zed Co l l agen (H ormel -Pepte in 2000x1)

Balsam

B * P r e s e r v a t i v e

* q .

s . t h e s e i g r e d i e n t s .

Procedure :

P r o t e i n and b als am w i t h m o der ate a g i t a t i o n .

Fo rm ul a CP 1067

SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : S ug ge st ed F or m u l a t i o n s

Add wa te r t o shampoo base w i t h modera te a g i t a t i o n . Add

w 9

31 . 5 0

68 .17

0 .3 0

0 . 0 3

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 335/553

Shampoos 313

Cleaning Shampoo

Viscous, h i g h foaming shampoo wh ich maximizes c l ea n i ng b y

r em ov in g s t y l i n g and r e s i d u e s fr o m h a i r .

I n g r e d i e n t s :

1 . Sodium (C14-C l6 ) O l e f i n Su l f on a t e

2 . Sodium Lau ry l S u l f a t e 25%

3 . Ri ta m id e

C

(Cocamide DEA)

4. Cocamidopropyl Betaine (Mackam 35 HP)

5 . R i tap eg 150 DS (PEG-150 Dis teara te )

6 .

P a t i o n i c ISL (Na I s o s t e a r y l L a c t y l a t e )

7 . Kathon CG

8 .

Frag ranc e--N atur e Ha rv est #165-050

9. C i t r i c A c id (50% S o l n . )

10.Sodium C h l or id e (25% So ln . )

( B i o t e r g e AS 40) 20 .00

20 .00

3.00

3 .00

1

. o o

2.50

0 .03

0 . 3 0

q . s .

q . s .

11 . D i s t i 1 e d Water 5 0 .17

F u n c t i o n

C le a n in g , L a th e r

C le a n in g , L a th e r

L a t h e r D e n s i t y

M i

d n e ss

V i s c o s i t y

Mi ldness, Body

P r e s e r v a t i o n

Odor

pH Adjustment

V i s c o s i t y

Ad jus tmen t

Compounding Procedure:

120F an d ad d f ra g ra n ce a nd p r e s e r va t i ve . Coo l t o 95F and a d ju s t

pH t o 5 . 5 a nd v i s c o s i t y a s d e s i r e d .

To t h e w at er add i n g r e d i e n t s 1 t o 6 i n o r d e r a t 165F. C ool t o

Re f. No. 118-18

Cleaning Shampoo

N e u t r a l i z i n g shampoo t o t h o r o u g h l y c l e a n h a i r . Can be u se d

a f t e r r e l a x e r o r h a i r s t r a i g h t en e r t r ea tm en ts .

I aredi nt s : mu n c t i o n

1 . A lp ha O l e f i n Su l f o n a te ( B io te r g e AS-40) 3 7 .5 0 C le a n in g , No

Residue

2 . P a t i o n i c I S L (Na I s o s t e a r o y l L a c t y l a t e ) 3 . 00 R i ns e O ut ,

Combing

3 . Ri ta m id e

C

(Cocamide DEA) 3.00 Bu bb le Toughness

4. Frag ranc e-N atur e Ha rv es t 165-050 0.30 Odor

5 . C i t r i c A c i d (50% S o l n . ) q .s .p H A dj us tm en t

Compounding Procedure:

i t e m s 3 and 4 and add a t 120F. T horough ly mix and a d j u s t

pH

t o 5 . 5 w i t h c i t r i c a c i d .

6 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 5 6 - 2 0

-

- - - - - - - - - - - - - -

To t h e water a t 165F add 1 and 2 . Cool t o 120F. Pre-mix

Re f .

No.

118-51

SOURCE: R . I . T . A , Corp . : Suggested Fo r mu la t ion s

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 336/553

314

osmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Conditioning Shampoo

I n g r e d i e n t s :

A Sodium l a u r e t h s u l f a t e , 26% s o l u t i o n

Ammonium l a u r y l s u l f a t e , 28% s o l u t i o n

Cocoamphocarboxypropionate,

38%

s o l

Laurami de DEA

Tween

2 0

Water

B F o r e s t a l l

C

* C i t r i c a c i d

%w/w

15 .50

15.00

12.50

3 . 0 0

2 . 0 0

50.60

i .40

* q .

s .

t h e se

i

g r e di e n t s .

Procedure :

Add

(B).

A d ju s t pH t o 5 . 0 t o 5 . 5 w i t h ( C ) .

M i x ( A ) w i t h g e n t l e s t i r r i n g and h e at u n t i l homogeneous.

Conditioning Shampoo

I n g r e d i e n t s :

CP 1052 (shampoo base)

Water

Polyquater n ium-11 (Gafquat 755)

B

Hydroxy p ropy l me th y l ce l l u l os e (Me thoce l E4M)

q . s . t he se i n g r e d i e n t s .

56w w

31.50

66.84

1 .3 2

0 . 3 4

Procedure :

Add wat er t o shampoo base w i t h modera te a g i t a t i o n . Add

p o l y q u a t e r ni u m w i t h medium a g i t a t i o n . H ea t

( A )

t o

8OC

and

s l o w l y add hy dr ox yp ro py l m e t h y l c e l lu l o s e w i t h f a s t e r s t i r r i n g .

S t i r w i t h medium a g i t a t i o n u n t i l c o o le d t o room te m pe r at u re .

Formula

PC

1057

Conditioning Shampoo

I n g r e d i e n t s :

A

C P

1052 (Shampoo base)

Water

Polyquater n ium-11 (Gafquat 755)

0 NaCl

%w/w

31.50

67.40

1 . 0 0

0.10

Procedure :

Add wa te r t o shampoo base w i t h modera te a g i t a t i o n . Add

G lyce r i n a n d A r l a m o l E w i t h medium a g i t a t i o n . H eat ( A ) t o 80C

and add g l y c o l s t e a r a t e w i t h f a s t s t i r r i n g .

S t i r

w i t h medium

a g i t a t i o n u n t i l c oo le d t o room t em pe ra tu re and s t i r N a C l .

Formula CP 1062

SOURCE: I C 1 S u r f a c t a n t s : S ug ge st ed Fo r m u l a t i o n s

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 337/553

Shampoos 315

Conditioning Shampoo

I n a r e d i e n t s :

A Polyox WSR

Water

V i t a m i n E

P r o t e i n

NaCl

Panthenol

B

* Co lo r

* P r e s e r v a t

*Fragrance

*q. s . t h e s

G-9600

Procedure :

%w/w

0 .02

71

.38

25.00

1

. o o

1 . o o

0.60

1 . o o

ve

i

n g r e d i e n t s

Add the Polyox

WSR

t o t h e w at er u n t i l c om pl et e l y d i s s o l v e d

w i t h h e a t i f n e ce ssa ry . Add th e re m a in i n g i n g r e d ie n t s .

Conditioning Shampoo

I n a r e d i e n t s :

A G-9600 (Shampoo bas e)

Water

Po lyquatern ium-11 (Gafquat 755 )

* P r e s e r v a t i v e

* q . s . t he se i n g r e d i e n t s .

B NaCl

%w/w

31

5 0

68.01

0 . 3 0

0 . 1 9

Procedure :

Add water t o shampoo base w i t h modera te a g i t a t i o n . Add po ly -

q u at e rn iu m w i t h medium a g i t a t i o n . S l o w ly add s a l t and s t i r w i t h

m e d iu m a g i t a t i o n .

Formula

CP

1064

Professional Salon Type Shampoo

I n a r e d i e n t s :

A C P 1052 (shampoo base)

Water

Roche-DL-Panthenol Cos meti c Grade

Calgon Merquat 550

B

NaCl

%w/w

31 3 0

65.40

0 .50

2 . 5 0

0 . 1 0

Procedure :

Add wat er t o shampoo base w i t h modera te a g i t a t i o n . Add

Pa nth en o l and p o l yq u ate rn i u m -7 w i t h medium a g i t a t i o n . S l o w l y

add s a l t under f a s t e r s t i r r i n g t o b u i l d v i s c o s i t y .

Formula PC 1058

SOURCE: IC1 Su r fa c ta n t s : Sug ge sted F o rm u la t i o n s

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 338/553

316 Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations

Conditioning Shampoo

I n n r e d i e n t s :

P a r t A :

De io ni zed Water

SLES ( 3 m o l )

D i so d i um

E D T A

49.05

40.00

0 . 3 0

Pa r t B :

Inc rom i de L R (L au ra mi de DEA)

5 . 5 0

I n c r o m i d e

CAC

(Cocamide

DEA

Cocoy l Sa rcos ine ) 1 . o o

In cr om i ne Oxi de B A (Babassuami do pr op yl ami ne Ox id e) 2 . 0 0

I n c r o d e t TD-7C ( T r i d e c e t h - 7 C a r b o x y l i c A c i d )

0 . 1 5

P a r t C :

H y d r o t r i t i c u m

2000

(Hy dro l yze d Whole Wheat P r o t e i n )

0 . 5 0

Crodace l

QS

( S t e a r y l d i m o n ium Hy dro xy pro py l Ox ye thy l

C e l l u l ose) 0 . 5 0

Pr opy len e G1 yc ol (and) D i azo1i i n y l U re a (a nd ) M e th y l

Paraben (and) Propyl Paraben* 1

. o o

Procedure :

Add i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t B i n d i v i d u a l l y w i t h m i x i n g , and c o ol

b a t c h t o 45C. Add t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t

C

i n d i v i d u a l l y w i t h

m i x i n g . A d j u s t t h e pH w i t h a 10% c i t r i c a c i d s o l u t i o n .

Co nt i nue m i x i ng and c o o l t o d e s i r e d f

i

1 1 te m p e ra tu re .

Comb ine ing red ien ts o f P a r t A w i t h m i x i ng and h ea t t o 65-7OC.

pH: 5 . 5 + - 0 . 5

V i s c o s i t y :

6 , 5 0 0

cpst-10% *Germaben

I 1

N . A . T . C . Approve d Fo rm ula SH-71

Cold Mix Shampoo w/Crosultaine C-50

I n n r e d i e n t s :

SS

P a r t

A :

Dei o n i zed Water 59 . 85

I n c r o m i d e CA (Cocamide DEA)

2 . 0 0

P a r t

8 :

Tea l

s

25.00

I n c r o m id e BAD (Babassuamide DEA) 1

. o o

I n c ro su l t a i n e C-50 (Co ca mido prop yl Hy d ro xy su l t a i n e ) 8 . 0 0

Croqua t L (L au ry l d i moni

urn

Hydroxyp ropy l Co l 1 agen) 0 . 2 5

C i t r i c A c i d (10% S o ln ) 2 .9 0

P r o p yl e n e G l y c o l ( an d) D i a z o l i d i n y l U re a ( an d) M e t h y l

Paraben (and) Propyl Paraben* 1 . o o

Procedure :

P a r t 6 i n o rd e r w i t h m i x i n g. A d ju s t pH w i t h a 10% c i t r i c a c i d .

Comb ine ing red ien ts

o f

P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g . Add i n g r e d i e n t s

o f

pH: 6 . 5 t - 0 . 5 *Germaben I 1

N . A . T . C . Approved For mu la SH-78

SOURCE:

Cro da I n c . : Sug ge sted F o rm u la t i o n s

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 339/553

Shampoos 317

Condit ioning Shampoo

I n n r e d i e n t s :

Phase

A :

Water, Dei o n i zed

Sod ium Lau re t h S u l f a t e (Standapo l ES-1)

Sodi um L a u r y l S u l f a t e (St anda pol WAQ-Speci a1 )

Lauramide DEA (Monamid 716)

Quatern ium-22 (Ceraphy l 60)

Quatern ium-26 (Ceraphyl 65)

C i t r i c Ac i d ( F i ne G ra nu la r ,

30

A q . S o l u t i o n )

Sod ium Ch lo r ide

Phase B:

Sodium Hyd ro xy m e th y l g l yc i n a te ( Su t t o c i d e A )

Phase

C :

Frag rance ( F l o r a l Sp ice-NP49)

P ro ce sse d In g re d ie n t :

D &

C

Green No. 5 (0.1% Aq. S o l . )

FD

& C

Green No. 5 (0.1% Aq. S o l . )

50.32

20 I O 0

20.00

3 -00

2.00

2.00

1 .4 0

0.08

0 .4 0

0 . 5 0

0.19

0 .1 1

Procedure :

1 .

Add i n g re d i e n t s i n Phase A w i t h m ix in g, b e i ng c a r e f u l n o t

2 . Cool Phase A t o 40C. Add Phase B w i t h slow m i x i n g .

3. Add i n g r e d ie n t s i n Phase C w i t h m i x i ng u n t i l u n i fo rm .

4 .

Sweep t o 25C.

SOURCE:

ISP

Van Dyk I n c . : Fo rm u la t i on #09843-85-1

t o a e r a t e b at c h , h e a t t o 75C.

Everyday

Hair

Shampoo

I n s r e d i e n t s :

1 A ) Genapol LRO l i q u i d

2

6

Wate r demine ra l i zed

3 Phenoni p

4 Eux yl K-200

5 C ) Genapol AMG

6 S e r i c i n

7

Sod ium Ch lo r ide

8 Fragrance: Adr ian o 0/235970

9 Genagen CAB

10

D ) Sod iumhydroxyd so lu t ion 30

% w / w

35,OO

39,90

0,50

0,30

8,OO

3,OO

3,OO

0,30

10,oo

Procedure :

i t e m 1 . T hen add a nd d i s so l v e i t e m s 5-9 one a f t e r a n o th e r .

A d j u s t t h e pH w i t h i t e m s

10

t o pH 6 -7 .

SOURCE: Pen ta ph arm L t d . : A p p l i c a t i o n No. F

Oll.A/05.94

D i s s o l v e i t e m 3 and 4 i n w a t e r ( 2 ) . D i s s o l v e phas e 6 i n

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 340/553

31 8 Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations

Conditioning Shampoo

A g e n t l e , p e a r l i z e d , m o d e ra t e ly v i s c o u s shampoo t o t h o r o u g h l y

c l ea ns e and c o n d i t i o n h a i r . H el ps m a i n t a i n i d e a l m o i s t u r e

b a l an c e and l e a v e s h a i r w i t h a dded s o f t n e s s , m a n a g e a b i l i t y

and body.

%

by Weight

P a r t A : De io n ize d Water 50 .28

Polyquater n ium-10 (C elq uat SC-240) 00. 25

Pan theno l (d l - Pan t heno l ) 00 .20

Methylparaben 00.15

Cocami dopr opy l Be t a in e ( C y c l o t e r i c BET C-30) 06 .00

G l y c o l S t e a r a t e (Lexemul EGMS) 01

. o o

Sod ium Lau re t h S u l f a t e (Standapo l ES-2) 20 .00

P a r t C : Quatern ium-75 (F in q ua t CT) 01

. o o

Methylchloroisothiazolinone

(and)

M e t h y l o t h i a z o l i one (Kathon CG) 00.08

Fr ag ra nc e (Givauda n #PSC 10,435/6) 00.30

C i t r i c A c i d 0 0 .04

Sodium Ch lo r i de 01 .20

TEA-Cocoyl Glut amat e (Ami s o f t CT-12) 16.00

P a r t

B :

Cocamide DEA (Cyc lomide DC 212/S) 03.50

Compounding Procedure:

D is pe rs e Ce lqua t SC-240 i n t h e wa te r . Hea t t o 70C. Add th e

r e s t o f P a r t A . M ix u n t i l c o mp le te ly u n i fo r m . S t a r t c o o l in g .

A t

60C, add Cy clo mi de DC 212/S. A t 40C, add P a r t C i n t h e g i ve n

o r d e r .

C o l o r: O f f - w h i t e ( p e a r l i z e d )

pH: 5.50

V i s c o s i t y

( @

25C): 5 .000 c ps ( # 4 s p i n d l e

Gentle Shampoo

A

c l e a r , modera te l y v i sc ous shampoo t h a t

l u b r i c o u s l a t h e r and s o f t n es s t o t h e h a i r .

f o r m ul a i s e x t r e me l y g e n t l e and p r o v i d e s e f

w i t h o u t h a rs h s t r i p p i n g .

P a r t A : Deion ized Water

Methy lparaben

L a uro am p ho g lyc in a te (a n d ) T r i d e ce th

(Mi r a n o l MHT)

10 rpm

o r o v i d es

r i c h ,

anced

eans i ng

he pH-ba

e c t i v e c

% by Weiqht

45.55%

00 . 20

30.00

S u l f a t e

TEA-Cocoyl Glut amat e (A mi so ft CT-12) 20.00

So di um Co co yl G1 ut am at e ( A m i s o f t CS-11

)

01 . o o

Sodium PCA (A j i de w N-50) 01 . o o

F ra g ra n ce ( N o v i l l e #8 450 4) 0 0.20

PEG-1 50 D i s t e a r a t e 0 1 . 5 0

P a r t

B :

M e t h y l c h l o r o i s o t h i a z a o l n o n e ( an d)

M e th y l i s o t h i a z o l i n o n e (Ka th on CG) 00.05

C i t r i c A c id 00 .50

Compounding Procedure:

40C. Add P a r t B .

Hea t Pa r t

A

t o 65C u n t i l co m p le te l y homogeneous. Coo l t o

C o l o r: L i g h t s t r aw

-

c l e a r pH: 5 .65

V i s c o s i t y : 3,750 c ps ( # 4 s p i n d l e '3 10 r p m )

SOURCE: A j i n o m o to USA, I n c . : Sug ge sted F o rm u la t i o n s

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 341/553

Shampoos 319

Conditioning Shampoo

% bv Wei a h t

Water 45.35

Sodium L a u re th S u l f a t e (2 M o le 26%) 20.00

Sod i um L au ry l S u l f a t e and D i sod i urn La u r y l 20.00

Trisodium Lauroampho PG Ace t a te Phospha te Ch lo r i de 10.00

(Sipon ES2)

Su l fos ucc ina te (Mona te rge 1164)

(P ho sp ho te ri c QL-38)

Dim ethi cone (Dow Co rn in g 200 F l u i d 200 CS) 2.50

G l y c o l D i s t e a ra te (Kessco E th y l e n e G l yc o l

D i

s t e a r a t e ,

Armak) 1

. o o

Cocamide MEA (Monamid CMA) 1

. o o

Sodi um C h l o r i d e 0.15

Procedure :

Cool t o 40C. A d j u s t pH t o 5 . 5 t o 6.0 w i t h 50% c i t r i c a c i d . Add

f r a gr a n ce , c o l o r and p r e s e r v a t i v e as r e q u i r e d .

Formul a t i n

P r o p e r t s

Ph ys i ca l Appe aran ce: Wh ite p e a r l e d l o t i o n

V i s c o s i t y 25C: 7 ,100 cps

A d d i n g r e d i e n t s i n o rd er l i s t e d w i t h a g i t a t i o n . Heat t o 70C.

Formul a F-578

Mild Conditioning Shampoo

Water

Monateric CLV

Phosphol i i d EFA

Sod i um La ur y l S u l f a t e (28%)

Sodium L a u re th (2 ) S u l f a t e

% bv Weiclht

3 4 .0

8 . 5

1 . 5

27.0

29.0

Procedure :

c i t r i c a c i d .

T y p i c a l P r o p e r t i

ea:

Blend i n o r d e r l i s t e d , a d j u s t pH down 5 . 5 t o 6.0 wi th 50%

Appearance : C lea r L i q u i d

V is c os i t y 25C: Approx im a te ly 17,000 cps .

Formula F-644

SOURCE: Mona In d u s t r i e s , I n c . : Sug ge sted F o rm u la t i o n s

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 342/553

32 osmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Cream Shampoo

Wei n h t %

Mackana te LO-Spec ial (D isodium La u r y l Su l f os uc c i na te ) 88 .0

Mackol

16

( C e t y l A l c o h o l ) 2 . 0

B r i j 52 2.0

M a cks ta t DM (DMDM Hyd an to in ) q s

Water , Fragrance

q s

t o 100.0

S o l i d s , %: 40.0

pH ( a s i s ) : 5 . 5

Appearance: P e a r l y Cream

Pro ce d u re :

1 .

Add Mackol

16,

B r i j 52 and wa te r t o Mackana te LO-Special

2 , B1 end u n t i 1 homogeneous.

3. A d j u s t p H t o 5 .5 t o 6.0 w i t h so dium h yd ro x i d e .

4.

Cool t o

50

degrees C . and add Mac ks tat

DM

a n d f ra g ra n ce .

5 . A d j u s t s o l i d t o 4O.Ot-1.0 a t t h i s p o i n t .

6. Cool and f i l l .

and hea t t o 70 deg rees C .

Highly

Pearlescent Shampoo

Sodium L a u ry l E th e r S u l f a t e 60%

Mackamide C (Cocamide

DEA

( 1

:

1)

M a cke ste r SP (G l y co l S t e a r a te M o d i f i e d )

S t e a r i c A c i d

Magnes ium Su l fa te ( 7 H 2 0 )

D i et ha no l ami ne

M a cks ta t

DM

(DMDM Hyd a n to i n )

De ion ize d Water, Fragranc e, Dye qs t o

pH: 7.5-8.0

V i s c o s i t y ( c ps 25

degrees C ) : 1000-2500

Weight ,%

20.0

2 .0

2 . 0

2 .0

6.0

0.67

qs

100.0

Procedure :

1 .

Heat wa te r t o 75 degrees

C .

and add Magnesium S u l f a t e .

2 . D i s s o l v e c o m p l e t e l y t h e n add o t h e r s u r f a c t a n t s and

DEA

t h e n

3 . Keep tempera tu r e a t 70 degrees C . f o r 20 m in ut es s t a r t

4 . A t 35 degrees C . add re ma in de r o f i n g r e d i e n t s and c o o l w h i l e

5 . A d j u s t pH w i t h DEA o r S u l f u r i c A c id d i l u t e d s o l u t i o n s .

SOURCE: M c In t y r e G ro up L t d . : Pe rso na l Care F o rm u la ry

add waxes.

cool

i g s low1y .

m i x i n g t o room te m p e ra tu re

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 343/553

Shampoos 321

Emollient Shampoo

I n q r e d i e n t s :

A Ar lamo l

E

A r l a c e l 1 8 6

B

Tween

20

C Wate r, de i on i zed

Tensagex EOC-670

D Sodi um Cocoyl Sa rc os i na te

L a u r y l P o l y g l u c o s e

%&&

0 . 5 0

0 . 5 0

4 .00

71 . O O

6 . 0 0

6 . 0 0

8 . 0 0

E

PEG 6000 D i s t e a r a t e 4 . 0 0

Procedure :

Mix (A) and add ( B ) . M i x u n t i l c . le a r and add ( C) s l o w l y .

M i x ( D ) and w i t h s l i g h t h e a t and add t o ( A, B, C) . H ea t t o 65C

and add ( E ) w h i le s t i r r i n g .

Moisturizing Shampoo

I n q r e d i e n t s :

A CP 1052 (shampoo base)

Water

G 1 y c e r ine

Ar lamo l E , I C 1 (PPG-15 s t e a r y l e th e r )

Jo j o b a

O i l

%&&

31.50

66 .50

0 .5 0

0 . 2 5

0 . 2 5

i n an

g l y c o

u n t i 1

Formu

B G l y c o l d i s t e a r a t e (S te pa n- Kes sc o E t h y l e n e G l y c o l

Procedure :

D i s t e a r a t e ) 1

. o o

Add wa te r t o shampoo base w i t h m od er at e a g i t a t i o n . Add G l y c e r -

Ar lamo l E w i t h medium a g i t a t i o n . Hea t (A ) t o 80C and add

s t e a r a t e w i t h f a s t s t i r r i n g . S t i r w i t h m e d iu m a g i t a t i o n

c o o l e d t o room t e m p e r a t u r e.

a CP 1059

Shampoo Concentrate

I n s r e d i e n t s :

Ammoni um 1 a u r y l s u l f a t e (St epan o

Water

Cocamidopropy l be t a i ne (Tegobeta

NaCl

C i t r i c a c i d

Cocamide DEA (Monamid 15OADD)

Procedure :

H eat i n g r e d i e n t s t o a b ou t 45C.

AM 1

ne L-7)

w(W

75.59

0 . 3 0

17.78

0 .47

0 . 5 3

5 . 3 3

S t i r each i n g r e d i en t i n one

a t a t i m e i n o rd e r u s i n g modera te a g i t a t i o n .

Fo rm ul a CP 1052

SOURCE:

IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : S ugg es te d F o r m u l a t i o n s

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 344/553

322

Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations

Ethnic Hair Care

Amphoteric Shampoo

(Cold Process)

Clear

I n q r e d i e n t s :

T e t r a s o d i um EDTA

Water

Sodi um La u r y l Su l f a t e

Cocamidopropy l Be ta i ne (Tego Beta ine F)

D ime th ic one Pro py l PG Be t a ine ( A b i l B 9950)

Qu at er ni um-80 (A bi 1 Quat 3272)

D ime th ic one Copo lyo l ( A b i l B 88183)

PEG-30 G l y c e r y l Lau ra te (Tagat L)

C i t r i c A c i d ( 25% S o l u t i o n )

F ra g ra n ce

Co ca mido prop yl Be ta i n e (an d ) G l y ce ry l L a u ra te

Sodium C h l o r i d e (25% S o l u t i o n t o a d j u s t v i s c o s i t y )

Procedure :

1 . M ix i n g r e d ie n t s i n o r d er .

2 . A d j u s t v i s c o s i t y w i t h Sodium C h l o r i d e .

( A n t i l HS

60)

0 . 1

48.1

2 0 .0

2 5 .0

0 . 5

0 . 3

0 . 5

0.5

Q . S .

5 . 0

Q . S .

t o pH

6

Ethnic Hair Care

Amphoteric Shampoo

(Cold Process)

Pearled

I n g r e d i e n t s :

Te tr as od iu m EDTA 0 . 1

Water 45.1

Sodi um La u r y l S u l f a t e 20 .0

Cocamidopropy l Be ta in e (Tego Be ta in e F ) 25 .0

D im e th i co n e P ro p y l PG B e t a in e ( A b i l B 9950) 0 . 5

Qu at er ni urn-80 (A bi 1 Quat 3272) 0 . 3

D i m e th i c on e C o p ol y o l ( A b i l B 88183) 0 .5

PEG-30 G ly c er y l Lau ra te (Tagat L ) 0 . 5

C i t r i c A c i d (25% S o l u t i o n) t o pH 6

F ra g ra n ce Q . S .

G ly co l D i s te a r a t e (a n d) S te a re th -4 (Tego Pe a r l N 100)

3 . 0

Cocam id op ro py l Be ta i n e (an d ) G l y ce ry l L a u ra te

( A n t i l HS 60) 5 .0

Sod ium Ch lo r ide

(25

S o l u t i o n t o a d j u s t v i s c o s i t y ) Q . S .

Procedure :

1 . M ix i n g r e d ie n t s i n o r de r .

2 . A d j u s t v i s c o s i t y w i t h Sodium C h l o r i d e .

SOURCE: Golds ch mid t Chemical Co rp .: Sug gest ed Fo r m ul a ti o ns

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 345/553

Shampoos 323

Everyday Family Shampoo

I n ex p en s iv e shampoo u t i l i z i n g P a t i o n i c I S L f o r m i ld n es s

and c o n d i t i o n i n g shampoo d e si g ne d t o b e used b y a l l f a m i l y

members w i t h a l l h a i r t y p e s .

I n q r e d i e n t s : F u n c t i o n

1 . Sodium C14-Cl6 O l e f i n Su l f o n a t e (B io t e rg e

AS-40) 37. 50 Cl ea ni ng

2 . P a t i o n i c I S L (Na I s o s t e a r o y l L a c t y l a t e ) 3 .0 0 M i l d n e s s

3 . Ritapeg 150 DS (PEG-150 D i s t e a r a t e ) 3 .50 V i s co si t y

4 . Kathon

CG

0 . 0 3 P r e s e r v a ti e

5. Fra gran ce-Baby Powder #165-848 0 . 3 0 Odor

6.

Sodium C h l o r id e (25% So l n . )

q . s .

V i s c o s i t y

7 . Sodium Hydrox id e (20% S o l n . ) q . s pH Adjustment

8 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d W ater 5 5.6 7

Compounding Procedure:

R i tapeg 150

OS

i n a separa te v esse l t o 165F. Add t o t h e w at er

w i t h good m ix ing . Coo l t o 120F and add f rag ra nce and p re se r v -

a t i v e . Add Sodium C h l o r i d e u n t i l s a l t c u r v e r es po ns e. A d j u s t

pH t o 6 . 5 .

Heat t h e wa te r an d i t e m 1 t o 165F. Hea t t h e Pa t o n i c I S L and

Ref. No. 178-37C

Everyday Family Shampoo

A

m i l d ev er yd ay f o rm u la f o r a l l f a m i l y members.

I n s r e d i e n t s :

1 .

Sodium Laure th -2 S u l f a t e

2 . R i t a m id e C (Cocamide

DEA

3 . R i t o x 35 (L a u re th -2 3 )

4 . Gr i l l o ca m E-20 (Me thy l

G

5 . R i t a c e t -2 0 (Ce tea re th -2 0

6. Promoi s W-32 (Hyd ro1 yzed

7. C i t r i c A c i d (50% S o l n . )

8 . P r e s e r v a t i v e

-

Kathon CG

%w/w

F u n c t i o n

(Sta ndap ol ES-2) 25.0 0 Cl ean ing

8 .0 0

3 . 00

uce th -20 ) 3 .00

2.00

C o l l agen) 0 .20

0 .0 3

9 . Frag rance

-

Natu re Harves t 0 .30

10.

D i s t i 1 ed/ De ion i zed Water 58.4 7

q . s .

L a t h e r

Combi ng

M i l d n e ss

Body

Body

pH adjustment

P r e s e r v a t i v e

Odor

___---_

Compounding Procedure:

Heat water t o 165F. Combine i tems 3 ,4 and 5 and heat u n t i l

c l e a r . Add t o t h e w at er w i t h c o ns t a n t a g i t a t i o n . Add i t e m 1

and m ix . Coo l t o 120F. Add i t em 6 . P re -m ix i t em 2 and f r ag r anc e .

Add t o m i x t u r e . Add p r e s e r v a t i v e . A d j u s t pH t o 5 . 5 .

Re f .

N o .

118-85

SOURCE:

R . I . T . A .

Cor p , : Suggested Form ula t i ons

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 346/553

324

Cosmetic and

Toiletry Formulations

Gel Shampoo

Water

Sod ium Ch lo r ide

Sodium Laureth

( 2 )

S u l f a t e ( 2 5 % )

M on at er ic CAB

Phosphol i i d PTC

Monamid 1089

% by Weight

55 .00

1

. o o

3 5 . 0 0

5 . 0 0

2 - 0 0

2 . 0 0

pH a d j u s t e d t o 5 . 0 - 6 . 0

Procedure :

co m p le te l y d i ss o l ve d b e f o re a d d in g t h e n e x t on e. Add f ra g ra n ce ,

c o l o r i ng, o r p r e s e r v a t i v e as r e q u i r e d .

Add i n g r e d i e n t s i n t h e o rd e r l i s t e d making s u r e each one i s

M ild Cond it ioning Sha mp oo

Water

M o n a te r i c CLV

Phosphol i i d EFA

Sod i um La ur y l S u l f a t e (28%)

Sodium Laureth ( 2 ) S u l f a t e

% by Weight

34 .0

8 . 5

1 .5

27.0

29.0

Procedure :

c i t r i c a c i d .

T y p i c a l P r o p e r t i e s :

B le nd i n or d er l i s t e d , a d j u s t pH down 5 . 5 t o 6 . 0 w i t h

50%

Appearance: C1 ear L i q u i d

V i s c o s i t y 13 25C: Appr ox im ate ly 17 ,000 cp s.

Formula F-644

Conditioning Shampoo

Water

Sodium Laure t h (2 ) S u l f a t e (26%)

Mona ter i c COAB

Phosphol i i d EFA

Sod ium Ch lo r ide

% bv Weinht

31 . O

5 7 .7

9 . 4

1 . 4

0 .5

Procedure :

c i t r i c a c i d . Add fr a gr a nc e s, c o l o r , and p r ? s e r v a t i v e s as

r eq u i r e d and package.

B le nd i n g r e d i e n t s t o g e t h e r . A d j u s t pH down t o 5 . 0 wi th 50%

Formula F-621

SOURCE: Mona I n d u s t r i e s , I n c . : Sug ge sted F o rm u la t i o n s

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 347/553

Shampoos

325

Hair Shampoo

Dilutable Viscous Shampoo (For Customer Dilution 1:4

Rhodaterge DCA

Water

Per fume, Pr es er va t i ve , Dye

Viscous Consumer Shampoo

Rhodaterge DCA

Water

Perfume

C o l o r , P r e s e r v a t i ve

Transparent Shampoo

Water

M i r a c a r e A NK

Frag rance , Dye , P rese rva t i ve

Sod ium Ch lor ide

80

p a r t s

18

2

2 5. 0 p a r t s

7 4 .7

0 . 3

Q . S .

% by Weigh t

6 4 . 5

3 3 . 0

Q . S .

2 . 5

B lend ing Procedure :

i e n t s i n o r d e r l i s t e d .

Cha rg e wa te r i n t o m i x i n g ve sse l and b l e n d b a la n ce o i n g r e d -

Lotion Shampoo

Water

M i r a c a r e A NK

M i rasheen 202

Frag rance , Dye , P rese rva t i ve

Sod ium Ch lo r ide

%

by Weiaht

67 .5

2 5 . 0

5 . 0

Q S

2 . 5

B lend ing Procedure :

i e n t s i n or d e r l i s t e d .

SOURCE: Rhone-Poulenc: Suggested Fo rm ul at io ns

Charge wa te r i n t o m i x i n g ve sse l and b l e n d b a la n ce

o f

i n g r e d -

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 348/553

326 Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations

Hair Shampoo Clear

Ampholyt JB 130

M a r l i at 242/28

M a r l i n a t SL 3 /40

D i o n i l O C / K

Lamepon S

Pantheno l

V i t a m in F

Perfume

Colour

P r e s e r v a t i ve

NaCl

Water

Wt%

17.8

13.9

11.4

2 .0

2.0

0 . 2

0 . 1

qs

qs

q s

q s

t o 10 0. 0

P r e p a r a t i o n :

u n t i l homogeneous. The pH i s a d j u s t e d t o 5 .5 -6 .5 .

The componen ts a re m ixed to ge th e r i n sequence and s t i r r e d

Hair Shampoo

M a r l i n a t 242/28

M ar l i n a t CM 105

Ampholyt JB 130

D i o n i l O C / K

Lamepon S

Panthenol

Hai

r

Complex Aquosom

Camomi

1

e Sp ec i a1

Collagen CLR

P r e s e r v a t i e

NaCl

W S

29.0

14.0

1 0 . 0

3 . 0

5 . 0

0 . 3

0 . 5

2 . 0

0 . 5

qs

as

Water t o 1oo:o

P r e p a r a t i o n

The components a r e m ixed to ge th e r i n sequence and s t i r r e d

u n t i l homogeneous. The

p H

i s a d j u s t e d t o

5 . 5 - 6 . 5 .

SOURCE: H u l s A me ri ca I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n s f o r Cosmet ics: Formulas

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 349/553

Shampoos

327

Hair Shampoos, Clear

B 40/5:

Z e te so l N L

Purton SFD

Perfume

W ater, s od ium c h l o r i d e , p r e s e r v a t i v e

B 40/30:

Z e te so l

2056

Purton SFD

Water , per fume, sod ium c h l o r i d e ,

p r e s e r v a t i v e

B40/31 :

S u l f e t a l

KT

400

Amphotensid GB 2009

Purton CFD

Water , p e r fu m e, p re se r va t i ve

40.0%

1 O

0.5

a . s . t o make 100.0%

30.0%

1.0%

q . s .

t o make 100.0%

37.0%

10.0%

2.0

q.s . t o make 100.0%

B 4 0 / 5 0 :

Ex tr ak t 52 27 .0%

Amphotensid

B

4 12.0%

P u r t o n SFD 0.5%

E x t r a c t s o f p l a n t s , aqueous (10% )

2.0

Water , p e rfu me , p r e s e r va t i ve

q . s .

t o make 100.0%

Hair Shampoos, Pearlescent

0 41/1;

Ze teso l 856 T

P e r l g l a n z m i t t e l GM 4175

Perfume

W at er , s od iu m c h l o r i d e , p r e s e r v a t i v e

B

41/3:

S u l f e t a l KT 400

P e r l g l anzmi t t e l GM 41 75

Amphotensid B 4

Water , pe r fume , sodium c h lo r i d e ,

p r e s e r v a t i v e

20.0

4.0%

0.3

q . s . t o make 100.0%

25.0

8.0

9 . 0 %

q.s . t o make 100.0%

B

41/25:

Zetesol 2056 2 8 . 0 %

Amphotensid

0

4

8.0%

P e r l g l a n z m i t t e l

GM

4175 4.0%

Perfume

0.5

W a t e r , p r e s e r v a t i v e q . s . t o make 100.0%

SOURCE: Zschimmer & Schwarz GmbH & Co.: Suggested Formulas

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 350/553

328

Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations

Hair Shampoo with Condit ioner

M a r l i at 242/28

M a r l i n a t CM 105

Ampholyt

JB

130

Mar lamid

D F

1218

Lamepon S

M a r l a z i n KC 30/50

Pant henol

V i t a m i n F

Perfume

C o l o u r

P r e s e r v a t

NaCl

Water

v e

3 5 .0

1 0 . 0

5 . 0

2 . 0

2 . 0

1 . 6

0 . 2

0 . 1

qs

IS

qs

qs

t o 1 0 0 . 0

P r e p a r a t i - n :

u n t i l homogeneous. The pH i s a d j u s t e d t o 5 . 5- 6 .5 .

The components a r e m i xe d to g e th e r i n seq uen ce an d s t i r r e d

Hair Shampoo with Conditioner

fo r

Everyday Use

Mar l i at 242/28

M a r l i n a t CM 105

M a r l i n a t S L 3/40

M a r l a z i n

K C

30/50

Pantheno l

Perfume

C o l o u r

P r e s e r v a t ive

NaC1

Water

wt%

46.0

7 . 0

3 . 8

1 . 6

0 . 2

qs

q s

q s

CIS

t o 1 00 .0

P r e p a r a ti n :

The com ponents a r e m ixe d to g e th e r i n seq ue nce a nd s t i r r e d

u n t i l homogeneous. The pH i s a d j u s te d t o 5 .5 -6.5 .

SOURCE: Hu ls Amer ica I n c . : Fo rm ul a t io ns f o r Cosmet ics : Formulas

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 351/553

Shampoos 329

Herbal Shampoo Pearlescent

M a r l

i

at 242/28

Ampholyt

JB

130

Mar lamid PG

2 0

Hai r Complex Aquosum

S t i n g i n g N e t t l e Sp ec ia l

Rosemary Special

V i t a m i n F

Horse -ches tnu t Spec ia l

Perfume

Col

our

P r e s e r v a t i v e

NaCl

Water

t o 1

wts/,

3 0 0

8 0

3 . 0

I . o

0 .5

0 . 3

0 . 2

I 3

qs

qs

q s

qs

100.0

P r e p a r a t i o n

u n t i l homogeneous. The pH i s a d j u s te d t o 5 . 5 - 6 . 5 .

The components a re m ixed to ge th e r i n sequence and s t i r r e d

Highly Concentrated Hair Shampoo

A . M a r l i n a t

2 4 2 / 2 8

M a r l i n a t SL

3/40

Ampholyt J B 130

S o f t i g e n

767

Water

6 . Perfume

P r e s e r v a t i v e

Co lo u r

NaCl

Pre Dara t i on :

wts/,

5 4 .0

2 5 .0

1 6 . 0

3 . 0

t o 1 0 0 . 0

T h e c o n s t i t u e n t s

o f A .

ar e added to ge th er i n sequence, and

s t i r r e d w h i l e warm u n t i l homogeneous. The i n g r e d i e n t s o f 8 a r e

added t o A . a t a p p r o x . 3 0 C The pH i s a d j us te d t o 5 . 5 - 6 . 6 .

SOURCE: H u l s A me ri ca I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o ns f o r Cosmet ics: Formulas

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 352/553

33

osmetic and Toiletry Formulations

High Foaming 2 in 1 Shampoo

Weiqht ,%

Ammonium La ur y l S u l f a t e (28%) 65 . 0

Mackalene

426

( I s o s t e a r a m i d o pr o p y l M o r p h o l i n e L a c t a t e ) 6 . 0

Mackanate DC-30 (Disod ium Dimet h icone Copo lyo l S u l f o -

s u c c i n a t e )

Et hy le ne G1 yc o l D i s t e a r a t e

Mackamide PKM (Palmkernalamide MEA)

Mackern ium 007 ( Po l yq uat ern ium 7 )

Macks ta t

DM

(DMDM Hydantoin)

Water, Dye, Fragrance q s t o

4 . 0

1

. o

2 . 0

0 . 4

Q . S .

1 0 0 . 0

Procedure :

1 . Combine t h e f i r s t f i v e components a nd h e a t t o 7 0 degrees C .

2 .

D i l u t e t h e M a c k e r n i u m

0 0 7

i n t h e r e m a in i n g w at er and s l o w l y

3 . B l e n d u n t i l p r o d u c t i s homogeneous and c o o l t o

5 0

degrees C .

4 .

Add Mackstat

DM,

f r a g ra n c e a nd d ye .

5 . A dj us t pH w i t h c i t r i c a c i d t o 5 .0 -6 .0 and c o o l .

w i t h

c o n t

i

nuous m i x i ng .

add t o t h e b l e nd

Silicone Free 2:1 Shampoo

Weiaht , %

Ammoni um L au ry l S u l f a t e (30%) 4 0 . 0

Mackanate LA (Diammonium La ur yl S u l f o s u c c i n a t e ) 20.0

Mackalene 426 ( I so st ea ra mi do pr op yl Morpho1

i

e L a c t a t e ) 6 . 0

Mackami de CMA (Cocami de MEA) 2 . 0

Mackernium 007 ( P o l y q u a t e r n iu m 7 ) 1 . 2

Mackester EGDS (G ly co l D is te ar a t e )

1

. o

Paragon (DMDM Hy da nt oi n (a nd) Me thy l Paraben) q . s .

Water, Fragrance, Dye q . s t o 1 0 0 . 0

Procedure :

1 . Add th e f i r s t seven com ponents t o wa ter a nd h ea t t o 70C.

2. B1 end u n t i compl e t e l y homogeneous.

3 .

Cool t o 50C. and add Paragon, f r ag ra nc e and dye.

4 . A dj us t pH t o 5 .0 -6 .0 w i t h c i t r i c a c i d .

5 . Cool and f i l l .

SOURCE: Mc In t y r e Group L t d . : Pe rsona l Ca re Fo rmu la ry

Sodium Ch lo r i d e 0 . 8

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 353/553

Shampoos 331

Light Conditioning Shampoo

L i g h t c o n d i t i o n i ng shampoo based on h a i

r

s u bs t an t i v i y o f

P a t i o n i c SSL (Sodium S t e a r o y l L a c t y l a t e ) . Promotes s t y l e

r e t e n t i on .

I n s r e d i e n t s :

1 . Sodium La u r yl S u l f a t e (Sta ndap ol WAQ-LC) 21.43

2 Sod ium Laur e th - 2 Su l f a t e (Standapo l ES-2) 21 .43

3 . P a t i o n i c SSL (Na S t e a r o y l L a c t y l a t e ) 3 . 00

4. R i t a

EGDS

( G l y co l D i s t e a r a t e )

5 . R i t a m id e C (Cocamide DEA)

6 . F rag rance - Pert Type #189-724

7 . Kathon

CG

8

C i t r i c A c i d (50% S o l n . )

9 . Sodium C h l o r i d e (25% So ln . )

3 .50

4.50

0.30

0.03

q.s.

q . s .

1 0 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d W ater 4 5 .8 1

Funct

i

n

C1 ean i n g

C le a n in g

S t y l e ,

V i s c o s i t y

L a t h e r

D e n s i t y

Odor

P r e s e r v a t i v e

pH Adjustment

V i s c o s i t y

Ad jus tmen t

C o n d i t i o n i n g

------

- - -

Compounding Procedure:

Hea t i tems 3 a nd 4 u n t i l m e l t e d . Add t o 1 65F wa te r i t e m s 1

and 2. Blen d i n p re -m ix w i t h c o n s t a n t a g i t a t i o n . C ool t o 140F

Hea t i t em 5 and m ix w i t h per fume. Add thes e and p r e s e r va t i v e

a t 120F.

Re f .

No.

118-98

Light Conditioning Shampoo

A

l i g h t c o n d i t i o n i n g shampoo w i t h r e d u ce d s k i n and ey e

i r r i t a t i o n due t o t h e e f f e c t s o f G r i l l o t e n (Sucrose Cocoa te ) .

I n a r e d i e n t s :

1 .

Sod ium Laure th -3 S u l f a t e (Standap o l ES-3)

2. Cocam idopropyl B e t a i n e (Mackam 35HP)

3 . G r i l l o t e n LSE-65K (Sucrose Cocoa te )

4. R i t a s y n t I P ( G l y c o l S t e a r a t e and o t h e r s )

5 . Po lyqu ta -400 (Po lyqua te rn ium-10 )

6. Kathon

CG

7 .

Sodium Ch lo r i d e (25 % So ln . )

8 . C i t r i c A c i d (50% S o l n. )

9 .

Frag rance

l O . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water

F u n c t i o n

8.00 M i 1dness

2.80 N o n - I r r i t a t i o n

3.00 Condi t i o n i n g

1.00 Combing, S t y l e

0.03 P r e s e r v a t i v e

q. s .V i scos i t y

q .s .pH Ad jus tmen t

44 .87 -------------

40 .00 La the r

0.30 Odor

Compounding Procedure:

To t h e wa te r a t 1 65F s l o w l y a dd i t e m 5 . When s o l u b i l i z e d ad d

i t e m 3 , wh ich has been mel t ed . Then add 1 , 2 and 4 w i t h co ns ta n t

a g i t a t i o n a t 165F. C ool t o 120F and a dd p er fu me and p r e s e r v a t i v e .

A d j us t pH t o 5 . 5 and v i s c o s i t y t o d e s i r ed l e v e l .

SOURCE:

R . 1 , T . A .

Co r p . : Sug ge sted F o rm u la t i o n s

Ref. No. 118-2

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 354/553

332

Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations

Light Conditioning Shampoo

L i g h t c o n d i t i o n i n g shampoo d e si gn ed t o l ea v e t h e h a i r w i t h

a s o f t , c o n d i t i o n e d f e e l f ro m e t h o x y l a t e d 1 a no l ( L a n e to 5 0 ) .

I n q r e d i e n t s :

?&&

F u n c t i o n

1 . Sodium Laure th -2 Su l f a t e (S tandapol ES-2) 50 .00 C lea n ing

2 . R i t a s y n t I P ( G l y c o l S t e a r a t e and O t h e r s ) 4 .5 0 C o n d i t i o n i n g ,

3 . P a t i o n i c I S L (Na I s o s t e a r o y l L a c t y l a t e ) 3 . 00 M i l dn e s s ,

4 . Laneto 50 (PEG-75 L an o l i n ) 1 50 S o f t Fe e l ,

5 . R i tap eg 150

DS

(PEG-150 D is te a ra te ) 0 .50 Opa c i t y

6 . R i t a p a n DL ( d l - P a n t h e n ol ) 0 . 5 0 C o n d i t i o n e r ,

7 . F ra g ra n ce - Squeeky Clean 165-047

0.30 Odor

8 .

Kathon

CG

0 . 0 3 P r e s e r v a t i e

9 . Sod ium Hydrox ide (20% So l n . )

q .s .pH ad jus tmen t

10.Sodium Ch lo r i de (25% So ln . )

q .

s .

V i s c o s i t y

Compounding Procedure:

T o t h e wa te r add 1 -6 , h e ar t o 16 5F . M i x and coo l t o 120F.

Add p r es e r va t i ve and f rag ranc e . No te pH shou ld

be

near 6 .0 .

A d j u s t w i t h s odium h y d r ox i d e t o 7 . 2 - 7 . 6 t o ma xim iz e d e p o s i t i o n

o f t h e L an et o 50 i f d e s i r e d .

S o f t F e e l

Combing

Sh ine

Body

C o n t r o l

11 . D i s t i l l e d Water 39.67

- - - - - - - - -

Ref. No. 118-46

Light Conditioning Shampoo

A

l i g h t c o n d i t i o n i n g shampoo o p t i m i z e d f o r p ermed h a i r .

C on ta in s m o i s t u r i z e r s and r e p a i r a ge nt s t o g i v e h a i r new l i f e .

I n q r e d i e n t s : F u n c t i o n

1 . Sod ium Laure th -2 S u l f a t e (S tandapo l

ES-2) 53.60 Cl ea ni ng

2 . P a t i o n i c I S L (Na I s o s t e a r o y l

L a c t y l a t e )

2.25 Moi s t u r i z a t i o n

3 .

Ri tapeg 150

DS

(PEG-150 D i s t e a ra te ) 0 .7 5 V i s c o s i t y

4 . R i t a EGMS (G ly co l St ea ra te ) 2 . 0 0 O p a c i t y

5 . R i t a l a n DL (d l - Pan t heno l ) 0 .25 Body, Fee l

6 . L ane to 50 (PEG-75 L a n o l i n )

0 .75 Fee l

7 .

P r o p yl e n e G l y c o l

2 .5 0 Moi s t u r i z a t i o n

8 . F ra g ra n ce - Na tu re Ha rv es t 165-050 0.30 Odor

9 . Kathon CG 0 . 0 3 P r e s e r v a t i v e

10. D i s t i 11ed/Dei o n i zed Water 37.57 -------

Compounding Procedure:

Hea t i t e m s 2 ,3 and 4 u n t i l u n i f o r m . Se p a ra te l y h e a t wa te r

u n t i l 165F d i s p e r s e i t e m 5 and m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add i t e m 1

f o l l o w e d by p re -m i x . Add i t e m 7 t o b a t ch . P re-m ix i t e m 6 and

perfume and add t o ba tc h which has been coo le d t o 125F. M ix

t h o r o u g h l y . Add o t h e r i n g r e d i e n t s . pH s h o u l d b e n ea r 5 . 5 .

SOURCE: R.I.T.A. Corp . : Suggested Fo rm u la t i ons

Re f . N o . 118-94

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 355/553

Shampoos 333

Low pH, Protein Gel Shampoo

Ammonium L a u r y l S u l f a t e (30%)

Wei g h t %

35 .0

Mackam 35HP (Cocamidopropyl Betaine) 12.0

( N at u ra l L i p i d P r o t e i n ) 2.0

Mackamide LLM (Lauramide DEA) 2.0

Macks ta t DM (DMDM Hyd an to i n ) q s

L a c t i c A c i d q s

Water, Dye, Fragrance

qs

t o 100.0

Procedure :

1 Add f i r s t f o u r components t o w a te r and h e a t t o 60 degrees

C .

2 . A d ju s t pH t o 5 . 0 w i t h l a c t i c a c i d .

3 .

Cool and add re mai n in g components a t 4 0 degrees

C .

Mackpro NLP (Quatern ium-79 Hy dr o ly ze d Animal P r o t e i n )

Mild Conditioning Shampoo

Weiqht ,%

Mackanate EL (Disod ium La ur e t h Su l fo su cc i na te ) 10.0

Mackam 35 (Cocamidopropy l Be ta in e ( V i a G ly ce r i de )

2 5 . 0

Sodium L aur e th Su l f a t e (60%)

10.0

Mackana te DC-30 (D i sod i um

D i

meth i cone Copo lyo l

S u l f o s u c c i n a t e ) 1

. o

Mackamide C (Cocamide DEA (1:l) 2 . 0

P o l y s o r b a t e 20 1 . o

Macks ta t DM (DMDM Hydantoin) q s

Water, Dye, Fragrance

qs

t o

100.0

Procedure :

1 Add s u r f a c t a n t s t o w a t e r.

2 . S t a r t m i x i n g a t room t e mp e ra t ur e u n t i l a l l c omponents a r e

3 .

B l e nd f r a g r a n c e w i t h P o l y s o r b a t e and add t o b a t c h .

4 . Adjust pH i f necessary w i t h c i t r i c a c i d .

5. A d j u s t v i s c o s i t y w i t h Sodium C h l o r i d e .

pH: 5.5-6.7

V i s c o s i t y ( c p s 25 de gr ee s

C . :

600-1200

c l e a r l y d i s s o l v ed .

Economy Shampoo

Mackadet SBC-8 (Mi I d Bl end )

Sod ium Ch lor ide

Wei q h t

.%

10.0

q s

Ma ck st at DM

(DMDM

Hydan to in ) q s

Water, Dye, Fragrance q s t o 1 00 .0

Procedure :

1 Add Mackad et SBC-8 t o wa te r a nd b l e n d u n t i l c l e a r .

2 . Add Mackstat DM and a d ju s t v i s c o s i t y t o

3000-4000

cps w i t h

3 . Add dy e and f r a g r a n c e a nd b l e n d u n t i l c l e a r .

SOURCE:

M c I n t y r e

G r o u p L t d . :

Persona l are Formu la ry

sodium c h l o r i d e .

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 356/553

334

Cosmetic

and Toiletry Formulations

Mild Shampoo

U l t r a m i l d

shampoo f o r g e n t l e c l e a n i n

easy t o r i n s e

o u t a nd l e ave s m in im a l r e s

I n g r e d i e n t s :

1 . Sodium L a u r e th Su l f a t e (S ta n da p ol ES-

2. Cocamidopropyl Betaine (Mackam 35 HP)

3 . R i t a b a te 20 (Po l yso rb a t e 2 0)

4 . R i ta pe g 150 DS (PEG-150 Dis teara te )

5 . P r e s e r v a t i v e

6. Fragrance-Baby Powder #165-848

7 . Sodium Ch lo r i d e (25 % So lu t i o n )

8

D i s t i 11ed/Dei on i zed Water

ComDoundina Procedure:

o f h a i r . E x c e p t i o na l l y

due.

) 30 .00

20.00

5.00

2 .00

q . s .

q . s .

0.30

42.70

F u n c t i o n

C1 ea ni ng

M i

d n e ss

M i

1dness

L i g h t

C o n d i t i o n i n g

P r e s e r v a ti e

Odor

V i s c o s i t y

To

wa te r add i tems 1 and 4 . Hea t t o 60C and m ix u n t i l un i fo r m.

Add i t em s 2 and 3 and co nt in ue mix in g . Cool t o 30C. Add f ra gr an ce

and p r e s e r v a t i v e . A d j u s t pH t o 6 . 5 . A d j u s t v i s c o s i t y w i t h Sodium

C h l or i d e s o l u t i o n .

R e f . N o . 118-71

Mild Shampoo

I n g r e d i e n t s : Jqjy

1. Sod ium Laure th -2 S u l f a t e (Standap o l ES-2) 46 .50

2 . P a t i o n i c I S L (Sodium I s o s t e a r o y l L a c t y l a t e 1 2 . 2 5

3 . R i tap eg 150

DS

(PEG-150 D i s t e a r a t e ) 0 .75

4 . Co n d i t i o n i n g Age nt *

5 . Fragrance-Nature Harvest 165-050

6. Kathon CG

7 . Sod ium Hyd rox i de (20% S o l n . )

8 . Sod ium Chor ide (25% S o l n . )

q . s .

0 .3 0

0.03

q . s .

q . s .

9 , D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d W ater 5 0. 17

Funct n

C le a n in g

Damage Repai r

V i s c o s i t y ,

M a n a g e a b i l i t y

C o n d i t i o n i n g

Odor

P r e s e r v a t i v e

pH Ad jus tmen t

V i s c o s i t y

C o n t r o l

_----

*

O p t i o n a l c o n d i t i o n i n g a ge nt , such as j o j o b a o i l , p a nt h en o l,

p r o t e i n , e t c . c o u l d be added.

Compounding Procedure:

add a t 165F. Coo l t o 120F and add pe r fume and p re s e r va t i v e .

A d j u s t pH t o 6 .0 -6 .5 and v i s c o s i t y as de s i r e d .

SOURCE:

I 3 , I . T . A .

Corp . : Suggested Fo r mu la t ion s

To t h e wa te r add i t em 1 a t 165F. Pre -m ix i tems 2 and 3 and

Re f . No. 118-102

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 357/553

Shampoos 335

Moisture Balance Shampoo with Cropeptide W

T h i s f o rm u la g i v e s h a i r more body c o n t r o l i n a l l h u m i d i t i e s ,

an e f f e c t c r e a t e d by C r o p ep t i de

W .

E s pe c ia l l y recommended f o r

d r y , damaged h a i r , Cropep t ide W can reduce i t s b r i t t l e n e s s a t

low

RH

and i t s l im pn es s a t h i g h

R H .

The shampoo i s an eas y- to-

make and economica l c o l d m ix fo r mu la w i t h ve r y good c lea ns i ng

p r o p e r t i e s .

I n g r e d i e n t s :

P a r t A :

In cr om id e LR (Lauramide DEA) 5 .00

Incronam 30 (Cocamidopropy l B e t a i ne )

5 .0 0

Sodi um Pareth-25 S u l f a t e

15.00

C r o p e p t i d e

W

(H ydr o ly ze d Wheat P r o t e i n (and) Wheat

1 . o o

Dei on i zed Water 73.70

P a r t B :

Methyl paraben 0.20

Propy l paraben 0.10

Procedure :

i n g r e d ie n t s o f P a r t

B

i n d i v i d u a l l y w i t h good m i x i n g . A d j u s t pH

w i t h a 10% c i t r i c s o l u t i o n .

01 osac char i des)

Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g u n t i l c l e a r . Add t h e

pH:

5.0+-0.5

V isco s i t y : 7 ,5 0 0 + -1 0 % ( R V T S p i n d l e 4, 20 rpm, 25C)

N . A . T . C . Approved

Formula SH-82

Shampoo with Trit isol

A

r i c h fo am in g shampoo w i t h wheat d e r i v e d T r i t i s o l added f o r

condi t i on i ns . Exce l 1e n t wet combi ng c h a ra c t e r i s t i cs a re p roduced

by t h i s p e a rl e s c en t p r o d u c t .

I n g r e d i e n t s :

P a r t

A:

SLES (3 mo le) 16 .5 0

C ro su l t a i ne C-50 (Cocamidop ropy l Hy d ro xy su l ta i ne ) 7 .00

Dei on i zed Water 61.50

In cr om ec ta nt AMEA-100 (Ac etam ide MEA) 3.75

P a r t 8 :

I n c r o m i d e CAC (Cocamide

DEA

Cocoy l Sa rc os in e ) 3 .00

I n c r o m id e ALD (Almondamide DEA) 1

. o o

Inc romate OLL (O l i vam idop ropy l D ime thy lamine Lac ta t e ) 1

. o o

P a r t C :

T r i t i s o l ( S o lu b l e Wheat P r o t e i n ) 2 . 25

Crod a pe a rl L i q u i d (Sodim L a u re th S u l f a t e (an d )

Hydroxye thy l S tea ramide M I P A ) 3.00

Germaben I 1 1 . o o

Procedure :

Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t B w i t h m i x i n g and h e a t t o 8 0-856 .

S lowly add B t o A w i t h m i x i n g a nd co o l t o 40C. Add Pa r t C w i t h

m i x i n g . A d j u s t pH t o 6 .0 w i t h a

10%

c i t r i c a c i d s o l u t i o n . Cool

t o d e s i r ed

f i l l

t e m p e ra tu re .

pH: 6 O O + - 0 . 5

Viscos i t y : 2 ,500+-10%

(@25C)

N . A . T . C . Approved Fo rm ula SH-83-1

SOURCE:

Croda Inc . : Sugges ted Fo rmu la t ions

Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g and h e a t t o 60-65C.

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 358/553

336 Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations

Protein Shampoos

0 40/65:

S u l f e t a l K T 400

Amphotensid

0

4

Pu r to n

SFD

H y d r o l a s t a n

Water , pe r fume , sod ium c h l o r i d e ,

p r e s e r v a t i v e

B 40/148:

P a r t A :

S u l f e t a l CJOT

60

P u r t o n SFD

Perfume

Croquat

L

P a r t B:

Polymer JR 400

W a t e r , p r e s e r v a t i v e

Vitamin Shampoos

B 40/29:

Zeteso l 856 T

Pu r to n SFD

S o l u v i t CLR

Wa te r , p er fu me , p r e s e r va t i ve

0 40/30:

S u l f e t a l KT 400

Amphotensid B 4

Pu r to n CFD

V i ami n F , wate r -s o l ub l e

Wate r, pe r fume , sodium c h l o r i d e ,

p r e s e r v a t i v e

30.0

10.0

1.5%

1 .O

9. s . t o make 100.0%

25.0%

1 .0 %

0.5%

1

.O

0.3%

9 , s .

t o make 100.0%

Shampoo for Dry Hair

B

4 0 / 1 3 1 :

Zeteso l 856 T

Amphotensid B 4

Oxypon 288

Avocado o i l

Perfume

So d iu m ch lo r i d e

W a t e r , p r e s e r v a t i v e

30.0

1 .5 %

3.0

a . s .

t o make 100.0%

40.0

5.0%

1.5%

1.0

q .s . t o make

100.0%

q . s .

22.0%

8.0%

4 . 0 %

0.5%

1

.O

approx. 2 .0%

t o make 100.0%

SOURCE:

Zschimmer

&

Schwarz

GmbH

&

Co.:

Sugeested Formula t ions

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 359/553

Shampoos 337

Salon Conditioning Shampoo

O pt im al c o n d i t i o n i n g l e v e l i s a ch iev ed.

I n q r e d i e n t s :

1 . Sodium L a u re th S u l f a t e (S ta nd a p ol

ES-2)

2 . P a t i o n i c I S L (Na I s o s t e a r o y l

3 . R i ta peg 150 DS (PEG-150 Dis teara te )

4 . R i tapan DL ( d l - P a n t h e n o l )

5. Lane to 50 (PEG-75 L a n o l i n )

6 . Po lyqu ta 400 (Po lyqua te rn ium-10 )

7 . Sodium Ch l o r id e (25% So ln . )

8 . Kathon

CG

9 .

Frag rance - Na tu re Harve st 165-050

10.

D i

s t i 11ed/Dei o ni zed Water

L a c t y l a t e )

F u n c t i o n

54. 35 C1 ea ni ng

3 . 00

Mi ld , Combing

1

. O O S t y l e , V i s c o s i t y

0.25 Body

0.75 Combing

0. 50 Combing, St y1 e

0 .25

V i

s co s i y

0 . 0 3 P r e s e r v a t i v e

0.30 Odor

39.57 ------

Compounding Procedure:

i t e m 3 i n i t e m 2 . Add t o 165F m ain b a t c h and m i x u n t i l u n i fo r m .

Add i t e m s 5 and 1 i n o r d e r a nd m ix u n t i l u n i f o r m . C oo l t o 120F.

Add p r e s e r v a t i v e an d p er fu me . A d j u s t v i s c o s i t y w i t h NaC1.

D i s p er s e i t e m s 6 and 4 i n o r d e r i n w a te r a t 165F. P r e - d i s s o l v e

Re f .

No.

118-28

Salon Conditioning Shampoo

A

m i l d s a l o n c o n d i t i o n i n g shampoo w i t h e xt re me ly r i c h l a t h e r

and a l o e and pa nt he no l t o p e n e t r a t e t h e h a i r s h a f t t o p ro du ce

h ea l t h y h a i r

I n s r e d i e n t s :

1 . Sodium L a u r y l S u l f a te (S ta nd a p ol

2. Cocamidopropyl Beta ine (Mackam

3. R i tam ide C (Cocamide DEA)

4 . P a t i o n i c I S L (Na I s o s t e a r o y l

5 .

R i t a l o e 200M (A loe Vera Ge l )

6 . R i ta pa n DL (d l - Pant heno l )

7. Kathon CG

8 . F ra g ra n ce

-

Na tu re Ha rve s t

9. Sodium C h l o r id e (25% So ln . )

1 0 . C i t r i c A c i d (50% S ol n. )

11 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water

WAQ

LC)

35 HP)

L a c t y l a t e )

F u n c t i o n

25.0 0 C1 ea ni ng

10.00

L a th e r, M i l d

5. 00 L a t h e r , Oensi t y

1 - 7 5 M i l d n e ss

0.15 Condi

t i

n i ng

0 . 5 0 H e a l t h

0.03 P r e s e r v a t i v e

0 . 30 Odor

q . s . V i s c o s i t y C o n t r o l

q .s .pH Ad jus tmen t

57.27 -----

Compounding Procedure:

1, 2 and

4,

add h e at t o 120F. Add t o w at er m i x t u r e w i t h u n i f o r m

m ix i n g . P re-m ix R i t a m id e C and per fume and add t o b a t ch . Add

p r e s e r v a t i v e . A d j u s t pH and v i s c o s i t y a s needed.

SOURCE:

R. I .T .A . Co rp . : Suggested Fo r mu l a t i ons

To t h e wa te r add i te ms 5 and

6,

he at t o 120F. Combine i t em s

Ref . No. 118-63

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 360/553

338 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Salon Style Shampoo

S al on c o n d i t i o n i n g i s a ch ie ve d t h r o u gh b al an ce d b l en d o f

s u r f a c t a n t s , p ol ym er s and p r o t e i n s wh ic h g i v e h a i r g r e a t

combing and sh ine .

I n q r e d i e n t s : F u nc t i on

1. Ammoni um La u r y l S u l f a t e (S tep ano l

AM 1 45.0 0 C1 ea ni ng

2 . Cocamidopropyl B e ta in e (Mackam 35HP) 5. 50 M il dn es s

3. Cocami do pr op yl A m i ne Oxide (Mazox

CAPA)

4 . Ri ta m id e C (Cocamide DEA)

5 . Po ly qu ta 400 (Po lyquatern iu m-10)

6 .

H y d r o x y p r o p y l M e t h y l c e l l u l o s e

(Methocel 40-100)

7 .

T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e

99%

8 . Te t rasod ium

EDTA

9 . Methy lpa raben

10.Germal l 115

11 .Pro mois WK ( H y d r o l y z e d K e r a t i n )

12 .Fragran ce-Natur e Har ves t #165-050

1 3 . C i t r i c A c i d (50% S o l n . )

1 4 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water

Cornpounding Procedure:

5 .50 La the r

1.00 L ath er Densi

0 . 1 0 C o n d i t i o n i n g

0.20 Body, Vi sc os

0.10 pH

0 .20 C l a r i t y

0 . 2 0 P r e s e r v a t i v e

0 . 2 0 P r e s e r v a t i v e

0.40 Shine, Body

0.30 Odor

4 , s .

pH Con t ro l

41.30

-----

Y

To t h e wa te r add i te ms 5 and 6 and n e u t r a l i z e w i t h T E A .

Add i tems 1,2 ,8,9 ,10 and 11 i n o r de r . P re -m ix i tem s 3 ,4 and

f r a g r a n c e and add t o mi x . M i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . A d j u s t pH t o

6 . 0

and v i s c o s i t y .

Re f . No. 118-111

2 in 1 High Condit ioning Shampoo

H ig h c o n d i t i o n i n g 2 i n 1 t y p e shampoo w i t h e x c e l l e n t wet

combi ng /d ry combing.

I n q r e d i e n t s : F u n ct i o n

1 .

Sod ium Laure th -3 -Su l fa te

(Standapol ES-3)

30.0 0 C1 ea ni ng

2 . R i tam ide C (Cocamide DEA) 3 .7 5

L a t h e r

3 . P o lyq u ta 400 (Po lyqu atern ium-1 0)

1 . 0 0 C o n d i t i o n i n g

4. Fragrance

0.30 Odor

5 . Kathon

CG

0 . 0 3 P r e s e r v a t i v e

Compounding Procedure:

i tems 1 and

2

i n or d e r and m ix u n t i l c l e a r . Cool t o 120F

and add f r a g r a n c e and p r e s e r v a t i v e . A d j u s t pH w i t h C i t r i c

A c i d a nd v i s c o s i t y w i t h Sodium C h l o r i d e t o d e s i r e d r an ge s.

SOURCE: R . I . T . A . Corp . : Suggested Fo r mu l a t i ons

6. D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 6 4. 92

- - - -

TO

t h e wa te r a t 165F ad d i t e m s 3 and m ix u n t i l c l e a r . Add

R e f . No. 115-2058

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 361/553

Shampoos 339

Shampoo for Permed Hair

Wei g h t %

Mackanate OP (Disodium Oleamido

M I P A

S u l f o s u c c i n a t e ) 2 0 . 0

Mackanate

CP

(D i sod i um Cocami do

M I P A

S u l f o s u c c i n a t e ) 1 2 .0

So d iu m L a u re th Su l f a te (30%) 15 .0

Mackamine

WGO

(Wheat Germamidopropylamine Ox ide ) 4. 0

Mackale ne 716 (Wheat Germamidopropyl Di me thy lam i ne

L a c ta te ) 1

. o

Macks ta t

DM

(DMDM Hyd a n to i n ) qs

C i t r i c A c i d t o pH=6.0

Sod ium Ch lor ide qs t o 2 0 0 0 cps

Water, Dye, Fragrance

qs

t o 100.0

Procedure :

1 . Add su r f a c ta n t s t o wa te r an d h e a t t o 40 de g re e s C .

2 . Blend u n t i l c l e a r and a d j u s t pH w i t h c i t r i c a c i d .

3 . Add rema in ing components and ad ju s t v i s c o s i t y w i t h sod ium

c h l o r i d e .

Pearlescent Shampoo Concentrate

TEA L a u ry l Su l f a te

Weigh t ,%

50.0

Mackami de LLM (Lau rami de DEA) 30 .0

Mackes te r SP (G l yc o l S t ea ra te Mo d i f i ed ) 5 .0

Pr op yl ene G1 y c o l

5 .0

Sodium Ch lo r i de 1 . 0

Ph o sph o r ic A c i d t o pH = 7 . 5

Macks ta t DM (DMDM H yda n to in )

q s

Water, Fragrance, Dye

qs

t o 1 00 .0

Procedure :

1 . Add f i r s t f i v e components t o w a te r and h ea t t o 70 degrees

C .

2 . B1 end u n t i homogeneous.

3 Cool t o 40 degrees C . and add Mackstat

DM,

dye and f rag rance .

Remarks: T h i s p r o d u c t c an be d i l u t e d one p i n t t o a g a l l o n

w i t h w a t er . The v i s c o s i t y can b e c o n t r o l l e d by r e g u l a t -

i n g t h e p ro py le ne g l y c o l .

Neutralizer Shampoo

Weipht ,%

Mackanate OM (Disodium Oleamido MEA S u l f o s u c c i n a t e ) 30.0

Sodium L a u re th S u l f a t e (30%) 20 . 0

Mackami ne CAO (Cocami dop rop yl ami ne Ox id e) 6 . 0

Mackamine WGO (Wheat Germamidopropylamine Ox ide ) 2 . 0

Macks ta t DM

(DMDM

Hyd a n to i n ) q s

Water, Dye, Fragrance

qs

t o 10 0. 0

S o l i d s ,

%:

19.5

pH: 5.3

V i s c o s i t y ( cp s, 25 d eg

C . ) :

1500

Procedure :

Add s u r f a c t a n t s t o w at er and b l e n d u n t i l c l e a r . A d j u s t pH

t o 5. 0- 5. 5 w i t h c i t r i c a c id . Add dye and f r a gr a n ce .

SOURCE: Mc In ty re Group L t d . : Pe rsona l Care Fo rmu la ry

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 362/553

34 Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations

Sport Shampoo

A . M a r l i n a t OFN 30

M a r l i n a t CM 105

Amphol y t

J B

130

O i o n i l

O C / K

A n t i 1 141 l i q u i d

Water

B .

Avocado Specia l

Perfume

Co lo u r

P r e s e r v a t i e

w e i

3 5 .0

11 . o

10.0

2 . 5

q s

t o

1 0 0 . 0

1 . 5

qs

q s

qs

P r e p a r a t i o n :

and s t i r r e d u n t i l h omogeneous. The i n g r e d i e n t s o f 9. are added

t o A . a t ap pro x. 30C. The pH

i s

a d ju s te d t o

5 . 5 - 6 . 6 .

The i n g r e d i e n t s o f

A .

a r e added to g et h er i n sequence, warmed

Herbal Shampoo Against Greasy Hair

A .

M a r l i n a t 242128

M a r l i n a t CM 105

Amphol y t JB 130

M a r l a m id M 1218

Water

B . Avocado Specia l

Camomi 1e Sp ec i a1

Perfume

Co lo u r

P r e s e r v a t i v e

NaCl

wt%

2 8 . 0

1 8 . 0

1 3 .0

3 . 0

t o 100.0

1 . o

0 . 5

qs

qs

qs

qs

P r e p a r a t i o n :

The c o n s t i t u e n t s o f

A .

a re added to ge th er i n sequence and

s t i r r e d w h i l e warm u n t i l homogeneous. The c o n s t i t u e n t s o f B .

a r e added t o A, a t a p p ro x . 30C. The pH i s a d j u s t e d t o 5 . 5 - 6 . 6 .

SOURCE: Huls A me ri ca I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n s f o r Cosmet ics: Formulas

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 363/553

Shampoos 341

Two in One Shampoo

I n g r e d i e n t s :

PC 90 43 , S i l i c o n e e m u ls i o n

10 . 0 0

Shampoo co nc en tr at e 90. 00

Procedure :

Heat

( A )

t o a p pr o x. 65C. M i x w i t h v e r y s l o w l y w i t h a nc ho r

t y pe a g i t a t i o n .

Formula

P C

9049

Two in One Shampoo

I n g r e d i e n t s :

PC 9 044 , S i l i c o n e e m ul s i on 1 0 . 0 0

Shampoo c o nc en tr at e 90.0 0

Procedure :

t y pe a g i t a t i o n .

Form ula PC 9050

Heat ( A ) t o a p pr o x . 65C. M i x w i t h v e r y s l o w l y w i t h a nc ho r

Two in One Shampoo

I n g r e d i e n t s : o ow w

P C 9045, s i l i c o n e e m ul s io n

1 0 . 0 0

Shampoo co nc en tr at e 90. 00

Procedure :

t y p e a g i t a t i o n .

Formula

PC

9051

Heat

( A )

t o a p pr o x . 6 5C. M ix w i t h v e r y s l o w l y w i t h an ch or

Two in One Shampoo

ared

i

n

t

s

:

PC 9046, s i l i c o n e emu ls ion

Shampoo concentrate

o

1 0 . 0 0

90 .00

Procedure :

t y pe a g i t a t i o n .

Formula

PC

9052

Heat

( A )

t o a pp r o x . 65C. M ix w i t h v e r y s l o w l y w i t h an ch or

Two in One Shampoo

I n a r e d i e n t s :

PC 9047, s i l i c o n e e m u ls i o n

%w/w

1 0 . 0 0

Shampoo c on c e nt r a te 90. 00

Procedure :

t y p e a g i t a t i o n .

Fo rm ula PC 9053

Heat

( A )

t o a p pr o x. 65C. M i x w i t h v e r y s l o w l y w i t h a nc ho r

Two in One Shampoo

I n a r e d i e n t s :

PC 9048 , s i l i c o n e emu ls ion

1 0 . 0 0

Shampoo c o nc en tr at e 90. 00

Procedure :

t y p e a g i t a t i o n .

Fo rm ula PC 9054

SOURCE:

IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : S ug ge st ed F o r m u l at i o n s

Heat

( A )

t o a p p ro x . 65C. M i x w i t h v e r y s l o w l y w i t h an ch or

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 364/553

342 Cosmetic and Toiletiy Formulations

Two in One Shampoo

T ru e 2 i n 1 f o rm u la w i t h e xce p t i o n a l wet a nd d r y com bing .

I n q r e d i e n t s : &V& F u n c t i o n

1 . Sodium Lau re t h -2 -S u l f a te (S tandapo l

ES-2 30.00 C le an in g

2 . Cocamidop ropy l Be ta i ne (M i r a t a in e

BET C-30) 3 .0 0 L at he r

3 . PEG-120 Me thy l G lucose D io le a t e 3 .00 M i ldness , V i s c o s i t y

4 . Dow Co rn in g 1401 F l u i d 2.60 Combing

5 . R i t a m i d e

C

(Cocamide

DEA)

4 .0 0 L a th e r De n s i t y

6. Frag ranc e 0.20 Odor

7 . P r e s e r v a t i v e - Kathon CG 0 0 3 P re se rva t i o n

8 . C i t r i c A c id (50% S o l n . )

q . s .

pH

Ad jus tmen t

9 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 5 7 - 1 7

- - - -

- -

Compounding Procedure:

5 and add t o mix a t 60C. S t i r u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add f r a g r a n c e ,

p r e s e r v a t i v e and a d j u s t pH t o 6 . 0- 6 .5 .

To t h e wat er a t 60C add i te ms 1,2 and 3. Premix i te ms 4 and

Re f .

N o .

116-153

Two in One Shampoo

U ni qu e c o mb in a ti on o f e x c e l l e n t c o m b a b i l i t y , o v e r a l l cond-

i t i o n i n g and m il dn es s.

I n a r e d i e n t s :

1 . Sodium Lau re t h - 2 -S u l f a te (S tandapo l

2 . G r i l l o t e n LSE-65K (Sucrose Cocoate )

ES-2

3.

4.

5 .

6.

7 .

8.

9 .

10.

Cocamidopropyl Be ta i ne (Mi r a t a i ne

BET C-30)

Dim eth i cone C opo lyo l (Abi 1 888183)

Quatern ium

80

(Ab i l Quat 3272)

F rag rance

-

Squeeky Clean

Kathon CG

C i t r i c A c i d

( 5 0 %

S o l n . )

Sodium C h l o r i de (25% So ln . )

D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water

F u n c t i o n

1 .50 Mi ldness

45.00 Clea n ing , L a the r

10.00

L a th e r , M i l d n e ss

1.95 Combing

0 . 6 5 C o n d i t i o n i n g

0.30 Odor

0 . 0 3 P r e s e r v a t i v e

0.05 pH Adjustment

q . s .

V i s c o s i t y C o n tr o l

40.52 ----

Compounding Procedure:

t h e i t e m s 1 and 2 w h i l e h e a t i n g g e n t l y a nd ad d p e rfu me a nd m ix

u n t i l un i f o r m. Now mix bo th phases to ge th e r . Ad ju s t pH and

v i s cos i t y

SOURCE: R . I . T . A . Corp . : Suggested Form ula t ions

To th e wa te r a t 120F add i te ms 4,5 and 3 i n o r de r . P re-m ix

Re f . No. 119-4

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 365/553

Shampoos

343

2 In 1

Shampoo

I n g r e d i e n t s :

A Dim eth i cone C op ol yo l Dow Co rn in g 92-5000

D o w C or ni ng 345 f l u i d

Carbopol 1382

Water

%w/w

0 .2 5

0 . 2 5

0 .10

66.13

B

CP 1052 (shampoo ba se ) 31 . 5 0

C S tep an- Ke ss co E t h y l e n e g l y c o l d i s t e a r a t e 1

. o o

D

NaCl 0.77

Procedure :

B le nd i n g r e d i e n t s i n (A) t o g e t h e r w i t h m oderate a g i t a t i o n

a t 35C. Add shampoo base t o (A ) w i t h modera te a g i t a t i o n . Hea t

m i x tu r e t o 80C and add g l y co l d i s t e a r a t e w i t h f a s t s t i r r i n g .

A l l ow t o c oo l w i t h medium a g i t a t i o n , s t i r r i n g

i n

s a l t a t 50C

o r be low.

Formula CP 1061

Two-in-One Shampoo

I n g r e d i e n t s :

A

Water

Dow Corning (12-5200

Dow Co rn i n g 345 f l u i d

BF

Good rich Carbopo l 1382

B S tep an -K es sc o E t h y l e n e g l y c o l d i s t e a r a t e

C

G-9600 1053 (Shampoo base)

D NaCl

* P r e s e r v a t i v e

* q . s

t h es e i n g r e d i e n t s .

%w/w

67.36

0 . 1 0

0 . 2 0

0 . 0 8

0 .50

31

. 50

0 .26

Procedure :

35C. Add shampoo base t o (A ) w i t h modera te a g i t a t i o n . Hea t

m i x tu r e t o 80C and add g l y c o l d i s t e a r a t e w i t h f a s t s t i r r i n g .

A l l ow t o c oo l w i t h medium a g i t a t i o n , s t i r r i n g

i n

s a l t a t 50C o r

b e low.

Fo rm ul a CP 1063

SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : S ug ge st ed F o r m u l a t i o n s

B le nd i n g r e d i e n t s i n (A) t o g e t h e r

w i t h

moderate a g i t a t i o n a t

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 366/553

344

osmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Three in One Shampoo

R e s u l t i n g p r od u c t i s a c l e a r r i c h shampoo w hi ch c l e a ns ;

c o n d i t i o n s and improves co mb ab i l i t y w i t h Lexquat AMG-BEO; and

s t y 1e s w i t h P V P / V A copo lymer .

A . So d iu m L a u ry l Su l f a te (S ta n d a p o l WAQ) 15.00

TEA-Laury l S u l f a t e (S tandapo l T ) 10.00

Cocami dop rop yl B e ta i ne (L exa i ne C) 10.00

Cocami de DEA (Standam i d K D ) 3 .00

Potassium Coc oyl - Hyd ro ly zed Col lag en (Maypon 4C) 3.00

B . Deion ized Water

P ro p y le n e G l yco l USP

Methy lpa raben (Lexga rd M)

Propy lparaben (Lexgard P)

Benzophenone-4 ( U v i n u l MS-40)

Te t rasod ium EDTA (Hamp-ene Na4)

42 .10

3 .00

0 . 2 0

0.10

0 . 1 0

0 . 1 0

C .

Behenami dop ro py l PG D imoni um Chl o r i de (Lexquat

AMG-BEO) 7 .00

D .

P V P / V A co p o l ym e r (L u v i sko l VA 73-W) 6 . 00

E .

Frag rance

Co lo r

0 . 20

QS

F . C i t r i c A c i d NF QS

Procedure :

1 . Combine i n g r e d i e n t s i n p ha se

A .

H eat t o 75C w i t h c o n t i n -

uous s lo w o s c i l l a t i o n . Do n o t e n t r a p a i r .

2 . Combine i n g r e d i e n t s i n p ha se

B ' l .

Hea t t o 75-8OC. M ix ra p i d l y

t o d i s s o l v e pa ra be ns .

3. When phases A&B1' a r e bo t h homogenoeus and a r e 75C, add

Phase A t o B . A d j u s t m i x i n g speed t o a v o i d f oa mi ng a nd

a i

r

en t rapmen t .

4. Combine phase C and mix u n t i l homogeneous.

5. Add phase C t o 'IAB . Ma in ta in 75C.

6 .

When phase ABC i s homogenoeus add ' ID1' t o A B C . M i x u n t i l

7 . When phase ABCD i s homogeneous be gi n c o o l i n g t o ambient

8 .

A t

30C add phase

'@E1'

o ABCDI ' . C o n ti n u e m i x i n g and c o o l i n g .

9 .

When ba t ch reaches amb ien t tempera tu r e , ad ju s t pH t o 7 w i t h

1 0 . A d j u s t f o r w a te r l o s s .

SOURCE: I n o l e x Chemica l C o . : Formulat ion SP-116

homogeneous.

t e m p e ra tu re .

phase F

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 367/553

Shampoos

345

Three in One Shampoo

R e s u l t i n g p r o d u c t i s a r i c h c l e a r shampoo w hi ch c l e a n s ;

p r o v i d e s c o n d i t i o n i n g and im pr ov ed c o m b a b i l i t y w i t h L e xq ua t

AMG-BE0

and q u a t e r n i z e d c h i t o s a n ; and s t y l e s w i t h P V P / V A

copo lymer .

A .

B .

C .

D .

E .

F.

Sodium La ur yl S u l f a t e (St anda pol WAQ)

TEA-Laury l S u l f a t e (S tandapo l T )

Cocamidopropyl Be ta in e (L exa i ne C)

Cocami de DEA (S tandam i d

KD)

Potassiu m Coc oyl - Hyd ro ly zed Co l la gen (Maypon 4C)

Dei on i zed Water

P ro p y le n e G l yco l USP

Meth ylpa rabe n (Lex gard M)

Propy lpar aben (Lexgard P)

Benzophenone-4 ( U v i n u l MS-40)

Te t rasod ium EDTA (Hamp-ene Na4)

Behenamidopropyl

PG

Dimon ium Ch lor ide (Lexquat

Poly quat erni um- 29 (Kytamer KC)

P V P / V A

co -p o l ym e r (L u v i sko l V A 73-W)

Frag rance

C o l o r

C i t r i c A c i d NF

AMG-BEO)

15 .00

10.00

10.00

3 .00

3 .00

42.10

3 .0 0

0 .20

0 .10

0 .1 0

0.10

7 .0 0

0.20

6 . 00

0 . 2 0

QS

QS

Procedure :

1 . Combine i n g re d i e n t s i n pha se A . Hea t t o 75C w i t h co n t i n u o u s

2 . Combine i n g r e d ie n t s i n p ha se B . Hea t t o 75-8OC. M i x r a p i d l y

3 When phases

A & B

a r e b o t h homogeneous and ar e 75C, add Phase

s lo w o s c i l l a t i o n . Do n o t e n t ra p a i r .

t o d i s s o l v e p ar ab en s.

A t 1 t o 'lB . A d j u s t m i x i n g speed t o a v o i d f o am in g and a i r

en t rapmen t .

4. Combine phase

C

and m ix u n t i l homogeneous.

5. Add phase C t o

A B .

Main ta in 75C.

6. When phase

t lABC

i s homogeneous add phase D t o ABC . M ix

7 .

When phase

ABCDt f

i s homogeneous b e g in c o o l i n g t o a mb ie nt

8 . A t 30C add phase E l 1 t o l 'ABCD . C o n t in u e m i x i n g and c o o l i n g .

9 . When ba t ch reaches ambien t temper a tu re , a d j us t pH t o 7 w i t h

1 0 . A d j u s t f o r w at er loss.

SOURCE: I n o l e x Chemical Co.: F or m ul at io n

S P -115

u n t i l homogeneous.

t e m p e ra tu re .

phase

F .

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 368/553

346

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Wheat & Sesame Shampoo

H y d r o t r i t i c u m WAA i s t h e key i n g r e d i e n t i n t h i s shampoo,

w hic h a c q u i r e s i t s u n iq ue q u a l i t y f ro m a b le n d o f wheat d e r i v e d

m a te r i a l s . T h i s shampoo has e x c e l l e n t foam w i t h a r i c h , creamy

l a t h e r and l ea ve s t h e h a i r f e e l i n g r e f r e s h i n g l y c l e a n . Hy dro-

t r i t i c u m

WAA,

a p o w er f u l h um ec tan t, h e l p s t o r e t a i n m o i s t u r e

t h a t i s v i a l t o mai n t a i n i ng h e a l t h y h a i r . Incromectant AMEA-100

and Incromate S E L improve wet combing and de t an g l i ng .

P a r t A :

Inc rom i ne Oxide WG (Wheat Germarni do p rop y l ami ne O x id e) 3. 00

In cr on am WG-30 (Wheat Germam idopropy l B e t a i n e ) 3 . 0 0

I nc r om ec ta nt AMEA-100 (A cet am ide MEA) 5 . 0 0

S L E S

( 3 mol EO) 40 .0 0

D i

so d i um E D T A 0 .1 0

Dei o n i zed Water 41 -4.5

P a r t

B:

Incr omi de WGD (Wheat Germami de DEA) 2 . 0 0

Inc rom ate SEL (Sesami dop rop yl Di me thy l ami ne La c t at e ) 1

. o o

BHT 0 .1 0

P a r t C :

H y d r o t r i t i c u m WAA (Wheat Amino Ac id s) 3. 00

P a r t D :

Methy lparaben 0 .25

Pro p y lp a ra b e n 0 . 1 0

Pro p y le n e G l yco l

1 - 0 0

C i t r i c A c i d ( 10% s o l n ) t o pH 5 . 4

Combine Part

A

and he at t o 60C. Combine P a r t

B

and he a t t o

60C, m ix in g u n t i l homogeneous. Add P a r t

B

t o P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g .

Con t inue m ix in g and coo l t o 45C. Add P ar t C , f o l l o w e d by P a r t D

m i x in g u n t i l u n i fo r m . A d ju s t

p H

w i t h c i t r i c a c i d s o l u t i o n .

I n a r e d i e n t s :

N . A . T . C . App rove d Form ula SH-84

Detangling Shampoo

I n a r e d i e n t s :

P a r t

A :

SLES ( 3 m o l . )

C r os u l t a i n e C-50 (Cocamidopropy l

Dei o n i zed Water

In c r om e c ta nt AMEA-100 (Ac etam ide

P a r t

B :

H yd ro xy su l t a i ne)

MEA)

I n c r o m i d e CAC (Cocamide DEA Cocoy l Sa rcos ine )

In c ro m a te ISML ( I so s te a ra m id o p ro p y l M o rp h o l i n e L a c ta t e )

P a r t

C :

Crodace l

QM

(Cocod imon ium Hydroxypropy Ce l lu lose)

Crod a pe a rl L i q u i d (So diu m L a u re th Su l f a t e (a nd )

Pr opy len e G1 y c o l (and)

D i

azo1 i n y l U rea (a nd ) M e th y l

Hydroxyethyl Stearamide-MIPA)

Paraben (and) Propyl Paraben*

20 .0

7 . 0

58.0

2 . 0

3 . 0

4 . 0

2 . 0

3 . 0

1 . o

Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g and h e a t t o 60-65C.

Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t

B

w i t h m i x i n g and h e a t t o 6 0-65C.

Add Part

B

t o P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g and co o l t o 40C. Add Pa r t C

w i t h m i x i ng and c o ol t o d e s i r e d

f i l l

t e m p e ra tu re . A d ju s t pH w i t h

10% c i t r i c a c i d s o l u t i o n .

S O U R C E : C r o d a

I n c . :

S u g g e s t e d Formulas

For mul a SH-92 *Germaben I 1

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 369/553

Shampoos

347

Wheat Germ Conditioning Shampoo

Wei

u

ht ,%

Sodium Lau re t h S u l f a t e (30%) 24 .0

Mackanate

OP

(Disodium Oleamido

M I P A

S u l f o s u c c i n a t e ) 2 0 . 0

Mackanate WGD (Disodium Wheatgermamido PEG-2 8 .0

S ul f o s u c c i n a t e )

Mackam

WGB

(Wheat Germamidopropyl Be ta in e) 5 . 0

C i t r i c A c id t o pH 5 . 5

Sod ium Ch lor ide qs t o v i s c o s i t y = 20000 cps

Macks ta t DM (DMDM Hydantoin) q s

Water, Dye, Fragrance q s t o 1 00 .0

Procedure :

1 .

Add s u r f a c t a n t s t o wa t er and h ea t t o 40 d e gr ee s C .

2 . A d j u s t pH t o 5 . 5 .

3 . Add re m a in i n g com po ne nts an d a d ju s t v i s c o s i t y w i t h sod ium

c h l o r i d e .

No-Sting 2:l Shampoo

Mackam 2C

Weish t ,%

3 5 . 0

Sodium L a u re th -1 S u l f a te

2 0 .0

Mackanate DC-30

4.0

Mackernium 007

3 . 0

Mackester

SP

2.0

Macks ta t DM

q . s .

C i t r i c A c id q . s . t o pH

7 . 0 - 7 . 5

Water, Dye, Fragrance q . s . t o 1 00 .0

Procedure :

1 . Add Mackam 2C, Sodium La ur et h- 1 S u l f a t e , Mackan ate DC-30 and

Mackester

SP

t o w at er .

2 . Hea t t o 70C t o b l end u n t i l homogenous.

3 . Slowly add Mackern ium 007.

4. Cool t o 50C and add Mac kst at

DM.

5. Add f r ag ra nc e, dye and a d j u s t pH t o 7 . 0 - 7 . 5 .

Stripper Shampoo

Weight,%

21 .5

5 . 4

4 .0

5 . 5

8 . 0

100.0

Dod ecylbe nzen e Su l f o n i c Ac i d

C au st ic Soda (50%)

Sodium Lau re t h S u l f a t e (60%)

Mackam 35 (Coc amid opro pyl B et a in e )

Sod ium Xy lene Su l fona te

( 4 0 % )

Water, Dye, Fragrance

q s

t o

S o l i d s , %: 30+-1.0

V i s c o s i t y (cps , 25C) : 250-350

Cloud P o i n t : 5C

pH: 6.5-7.0

Procedure :

1 . Add c a u s t i c soda

t o

wa te r a nd a d j u s t pH t o 7 .0 -8 .0 w i t h DDBSA.

2 . Add rema in in g components and ad ju s t pH t o 6 .5 -7 .0 w i t h

3 . I f n ec es sa ry , l ow er v i s c o s i t y w i t h

S X S ,

o r r a i s e v i s c o s i t y

SOURCE:

Mc In ty re Group L t d . : Suggested Fo rmu la t ions

c i t r i c a c i d .

w i t h sodium c h l o r i d e .

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 370/553

Sect ion

IX

Shaving Produc ts

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 371/553

Shaving

Products

49

Aerosol Shaving Cream

I n a r e d i e n t s :

A

S t e a r i c a c id , t r i p l e pressed

S t r i pp e d c oc on ut f a t t y a c i d

Sorbo

B W a t e r , d e i o n i z e d

A1

l a n t o i

n

C Po t a s s i u m h y d ro x i d e

Water

D

*Perfume

q . s .

t he se i n g r e d i e n t s .

6 . 3 0

2 . 7 0

10.00

50 .00

0 . 2 0

1 .7 0

29 .10

Procedure :

Heat ( A) t o 75C. Add

( B )

and rehea t t o 75C. Add (C) s lo w ly ,

w i t h a g i t a t i o n . M ix f o r 30 m in ut es , m a i n t a i n i n g t em pe ra tu re a t

75C. Cool s l o w l y w h i l e a g i t a t i n g s l o w l y . Add ( D ) a t 35C. P re pa re

aer oso l shav in g cream cans and p res su r e

f i l l

ea ch ca n w i t h

3 t o

4

i sobutane-propane,

40

p s i g t o 46 p s i g .

Nonionic Aerosol Foam

I n q r e d i e n t s :

A

C e t y l a l c o h o l

B r i j 721s

B Wa t e r, d e i o n i z ed

S o r b i c a c i d

C

Fo ug e re L a ve n de r , F r i t z s c h e ,

D O

-PRESSURIZE-

D Above c o n c e n t ra t e ( 1 6 0 . 0 g )

D i f l u o r o e thane, Dymel 152A ( 8 m l s )

96w w

4 . 3 0

2 .20

93.25

0 . 1 7

0 . 0 8

Procedure :

a g i t a t i o n and add ( C) a t 35C. A d j u s t pH t o 5 . 5 w i t h d i l u t e

NaOH. Add wa t e r t o c om pe nsate f o r l o s s due t o e v a p o ra t i o n .

C on ti n ue a g i t a t i o n u n t i l v i s c o s i t y i s l ow enough t o p o ur .

SOURCE:

I C 1

S u r f a c t a n t s : S ug ge st ed F o r m u l a t i o n s

Heat (A ) t o 70C and

( B )

t o 7 . Add

( B )

t o (A ) s lo w l y w i t h

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 372/553

350 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

After Shave Balm

D r y

F l o

PC

i s a h i g h l y w ate r r e s i s t a n t s t a r c h , p r o v i d es a

s i l k y smooth e le g an t f e e l , and i s t a l c f r e e .

I n q r e d i e n t s :

w/w

Phase

A :

E s t o l 1550 4 .00

C u t i n a

CP

2.50

Lonz est 143-S 3.0 0

I v a r l a n 3230 1 .5 0

Phase

B :

Dei on i zed Water 61.60

A l c o l e c

BS

1 o o

Carbopol 941

(2

Aq. So ln . ) 10.00

NaOH (25 ) 0 .40

Methy lpa raben 0 .15

Pro p y l p a ra b e n 0 . 1 5

Phase

C :

G l y c e r i n ( 99 .5 )

7 . 00

Dry -F l o

PC

8 .00

Phenoxyethano l

0 . 2 0

Phase

D:

Fragrance 0 .50

Procedure :

Combine Phase

B,

he at t o 80C. Combine Phase

A ,

h e a t

t o

80C.

A t

80C add

A

t o 9, m i x f o r 1 5 m i n u t e s . Coo l t o 40C. Phase

C;

s l u r r y D ry -F lo

PC

i n t o G l yc e r i n , add t o

A /B

a t 40C. Add Phenoxy

e t ha no l , m ix w e l l . Add Phase

D .

M ix u n t i l u n i fo rm .

SOURCE: N a t i o n a l St a r c h and Chemical Co.: Formula

8062-16

Shave

Gel

The p roduc t

w i l l

r a i s e t h e h a i r o f f t h e f a c e t o make f o r

a c l o s e r c u t w i t h o u t i r r i t a t i o n . The He x an e di ol Be he ny l Beeswax

s t a b i l i z e s t h e s i l i c o n e o i l t o l e av e t h e s k i n s i l k y a nd smooth.

Phase

A :

He xan edi o l Behenyl Beeswax (K os te r Keunen) 3.0

Orange Wax ( K o s t e r Keunen) 2.0

Permethy l 104A (Pe rme thy l ) 3 .0

Po lyb ut en e (Amoco) 4.0

I s o s t e a r i c A c i d (U nich em a) 0 .6

P a l m i t i c A c i d ( P r o c t o r

&

Gamble) 1.4

Phase B:

P u r i f i e d W ater 63 .9

T r i e th an ol ami ne (Dow) 0.8

Ca rb op o l 940 2 d i s p e r s i o n (B .F . G o o d r i ch )

12.0

A l o e Ve ra Gel (A c t i v e O rg a n i c s ) 0.8

Phase C :

S i l i c o n e 345 (Dow) 6 .7

A1 1 a n to i n (S u t to n ) 0 .8

Germaben

I 1

( S u t t o n ) ,

1.0

Heat and mix Phase

A

and add t o a he ate d and mixed Phase 9 .

Cool t o 50C and add phase C, one a t a t im e . Cool t o 40C and

p ou r t o c o n t a i n e r s .

o ra t e d i n t o t h i s t y p e o f f o rm ula ,

w i t h

o n ly m in ima l changes

i n

s t a b i l i t y and pe rf or ma nc e.

SOURCE: Ko st er Keunen, I n c . : Suggested F o r m u la t io n

F ra gr an ce s, a c t i v e s and o t h e r s i l i c o n e o i l s ca n be i n c o r p -

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 373/553

Shaving Products 35

After Shave Conditioner

T h i s m u l t i -p h a s e e m ul si on (o/w /a ) i s v e r y s t a b l e and h as

w o nd er fu l s k i n f e e l . B es id es t h e p r e v i o u s l y m e n ti on e d a dv an ta ge s.

C era B e l l i n a p ro du ce s a p r o d u c t w i t h good v i s c o s i t y c h a r a c t e r -

i s t i c s i n a pr od uc t o f l o w s o l i d s c o n t e n t .

O i l

Phase:

L i g h t

M i

n e r a l O i 1 , Ca rn a t i o n (Wi t c o )

Cera B e l l i n a (Pg-3 Beeswax, Ko s te r Keunen)

G l y c e ro l M o n o s t e a ra t e (He n k e l )

De od or iz ed O range Wax

V i t a m i n

E

(Van Dyk)

P ro p y l Pa ra b e n (Su t t o n )

Water Phase:

Water ( d i s t i l l e d )

B u t y l e n e G l y c o l ( A r co )

Glycero l (Un ichema)

Methy l Pa raben (Su t ton )

T r i e t h a n o l ami ne (Dow)

A lcoho l Phase :

SDA-30 (Quantum)

B e nz o ca in e ( N a t i o n a l S t a r c h )

C ar bo xy M e t h y l C e l l u l o s e ( H e r c u l e s )

Procedure :

7 .5

4 . 0

3 . 3

2 . 0

0

5

0 . 1

64.0

5 . 0

1

.O

0.3

1 . O

1 0 . 0

1 .O

0.3

Combine components o f t h e wax phase i n a ve ss e l , me l t and

m ix m a i n t a i n i n g a t e m p e r a t u r e o f 75C. H ea t t h e w a t e r p h as e t o

75C

i n

a s e p a r a t e v e s s e l m ak in g s u re t h e co mp one nts a r e a l l

d i s s o l v e d . S l o w l y add t h e o i l phase t o t h e w a te r phase u nd er

l ow s h e a r . C oo l t o

35

t o 40C a nd t h e n a d d t h e a l c o h o l p ha se

u nd er l o w s h e a r . Th i s

w i l l

e nsu re t h a t t h e f r i c t i o n w i l l n o t

i n c r e a s e t h e t e m p e r a t u r e w hi ch

w i l l

e v ap o ra te t h e a l c o h o l .

A d a p t a t i o n

o f

f o rm u l a a n d

i t s

i n f l u e n c e

on

t h e p r o d u c t :

A l t e r a t i o n s i n component c o n c e n t r a t i o n s c an be ac h ie ve d b y

t h e a d d i t i o n o f t h e se con da ry e m u l s i f y i n g a ge n ts . T h i s w e l l a l l o w

f o r

a c t i v e i n g r e d i e n t s t o be added a t t h e same t i m e a s m a i n t a i n -

i n g t h e s t a b i l i t y and r h e o l o g i c a l p r o p e r t i e s .

SOURCE:

Koster Keunen,

I n c , :

S u gg e st e d F o r m u l a t i o n s

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 374/553

352

Cosmetic nd Toiletry Formulations

Al cohol Fr ee Af t er Shave Lot i on

I ngr edi ent s :

P a r t

I :

Wat er

Phenyl Di met hi cone

Car bomer

940

Tr i et hanol am ne ( 99 )

P a r t

11:

Wat er

Phosphol i pi d SV

Ment ho

1

by Wei ght

66 00

1. 50

0. 30

0 60

30 00

1 00

0. 10

Pr ocedur e:

wat er . Af t er t he Car bomer 940 i s di s so l ved, add t r i et hanol am ne.

I n a separ at e cont ai ner bl end and heat t he wat er , ment hol and

Phosphol i pi d SV t o 75- 8OC. When di ss o l ved, bl end Par t I 1 t o

P a r t I m xi ng wel l . Add col or , f r agr ance and pr eser vat i ve as

r equi r ed and package.

Sl ur r y Car bomer 940 i nt o Di met hi cone t hen m x wel l wi t h t he

Condi t i oni ng Af t er Shave Toner

P a r t

I :

Wat er

Car bomer 940 ( Pr em x)

Pheny l Di met hi cone ( Pr em x)

Tr i et hanol am ne ( 99 )

P a r t

11:

Wat er

Phosphol i pi d

SV

SD3A Al cohol

by Wei ght

51. 00

0. 35

2 00

0 60

30. 05

1.00

15. 00

Pr ocedur e:

Par t I :

Sl ur r y Car bomer 940 i nt o wat er by f i r s t m xi ng i t wi t h

Phenyl Di met hi cone. Al l ow t o m x unt i l homogenous. When Par t

I 1 i s r eady, neut r al i z e Par t

I

wi t h TEA. Add Par t

I1

and bl end

t oget her unt i l a smoot h l ot i on i s f or med.

Par t 11:

Mi x wat er and Phosphol i pi d

SV.

Heat t o 6 5 wi t h agi t at i on

unt i l t he Phos phol i pi d

SV

i s di sso l ved. Cool t o 30- 40C and add

SD3A a l coho l . Add t o Par t

I .

S O U R C E :

Mona I ndus t r i es , I nc . : Sugges t ed For mul at i ons

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 375/553

Shaving

Products

353

Brushless Shave Cream

T h i s fo rm u l a t i o n fe a tu re s Vanseal NACS-30, sod ium co co y l -

s a r c o s i n a t e , Va n s e a l

CS,

c o c o y l s a r c o s i n e and p o t a s s iu m c o c o at e

as h i g h f oa mi ng y e t m i l d s u r f a c t a n t s . S o r b i t o l adds h umectancy

w h i l e

PVP

and t a l c p ro v i d e l u b r i c i t y . S t e a r i c a c i d , p ro py le ne

g l y c o l s t e a r a t e , and c e t y l a l c o h o l a r e i n c l u d e d as t h i c k e n e r s

and

t o

p r o v i de p l ea s a n t a f t e r - f e e l .

I n a r e d i e n t :

A Vanseal NACS-30

Vanseal

CS

Dei o n i zed Water

Po tass ium Cocoate (2 )

So rb i o 1 70

PVP ( 3 )

by

W t

15.00

2.50

25.75

35

O O

5 . 0 0

0.75

5.00

T a l c

( 4 )

C

S t e a r i c A c i d

P r o py l en e G l y c o l S t e a r a t e ( 5 )

C e t y l A l c o h o l

7 . 0 0

2.50

1 . 5 0

D

Pr e s e r v a t i v e , Dye, F ra g ra nc e

q . s .

(2 ) L i q u i d Coconu t Soap,

40

( 4 ) A G I

T a l c

(5 ) Cerasyn t

PA

( 3 ) PVP K-30

P r e p a r a t i o n :

Mix

A

i n g r e d i e n t s t o g e t h e r and he a t t o 55C w i t h g e n t l e s t i r -

r i n g u n t i l c l e a r . Add B t o A w i t h ade qua te a g i t a t i o n . H eat C t o

60C. Add C t o ( A

+ B ,

m i x i n g u n t i l u n i f o r m and homogeneous.

Cool t o 30C and add

D .

Co n s i s t e n c y : F l o wa b l e g e l ( V i s c o s i t y : 25 00 -3 50 0 c p s )

S ug ge st ed P ac ka gi ng : P l a s t i c b o t t l e o r pump.

Comments

:

T h i s p r o t o t y p e f o r m ul a i s d es ig ne d t o s e rv e

as

a g u id e f o r

t h e d ev el op me nt o f new p r o d u c t s o r im prov em en t o f e x i s t i n g on e s.

SOURCE:

R.T . Va n d e r b i l t Co ., I n c . : Fo rmu la No.

4 3 4

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 376/553

  54

osmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Emulsion o r Shaving

I n s r e d i e n t s :

A

C e t e a r y l a l c o h o l

A r l a c e l 1 8 6

B r i j 721s

B Water , de i on i zed

C * D o w i c i l 2 0 0

* q .

s . t h e s e g r e d i e n t s .

w/w

3 . 0 0

1

o o

3 . 0 0

93 . 00

Procedure :

s t i r . Coo l t o a b ou t 35C an d a dd (C) a nd wa t e r t o co mp en sa te

f o r t h e l o s s due t o e va po ra t i on .

S t i r

t o room t e m p e r a t u re

and package . A d j us t pH t o 5 -6 .

Formula

CP

1082

Heat

( A )

t o 70C and hea t ( B ) t o 72C. Add ( B ) t o ( A) and

Soap Free - Nonionic Shaving Emul

I n n r e d i e n t s :

A

C e t e a r y l a l c o h o l

A r l a c e l 1 8 6

B r i j

7 2 1 s

B

W a t e r , d e i o n i z e d

S or bo , 70 s o r b i t o

C

* D o w i c i l

200

* q . s .

t h es e i n g r e d

s o l u t i on

e n t s .

w/w

3 . 0 0

1 o o

3 . 0 0

83.00

10 . 0 0

Procedure :

Coo l t o a b o u t 35C an d ad d (C) a nd wa t e r t o co mp en sa te f o r t h e

l o s s

due t o e va p or a t io n . S t i r

t o

room tempera ture and package.

A d j u s t pH t o 5 - 6.

Fo rm ul a CP 1091

SOURCE: I C 1

S u r f a c t a n t s : S ug ge st ed F o r m u l a t i o n s

Heat (A) t o 70C and hea t ( B ) t o 72C. Add ( B ) t o

( A )

and s t i r .

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 377/553

Shaving Products 55

Hemostatic After Shave

I n q r e d i e n t s :

A )

I r g a s a n

DP 300

2

Crodamol DA

3

Ethano l

95

4 B )

P r o p y l e n g l y c o l

USP

5 Water deminera l i zed

6 C) Fragrance: Courage

0/243101

7 D

C e p h a l i p i n

Procedure:

D i sso l ve phase

A ) .

Mix phase

B ) .

Slowly add phase

B )

t o phase A) . Then add i t em

( 6 ) .

F i n a l l y add i t e m

( 7 ) .

A p p l i c a t i o n

No. 01.A/4.91

Shaving Foam

 

a r e d i e n t s

1

Water deminera l i zed

2

G l y c e r i n

3

T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e

95

4

Genapol

LRQ

l i q u i d

6 S t e a r i c A c i d

7

L u v i t o l

EHO

8

N i p a s o l

M

9 BHT

10

Cocamide

DEA

Fragrance

12

C e p h a l i p i n

13

P h y t a l u r o n a t e

Procedure :

A p p l i c a t i o n

No.

I

003.0/02.93

SOURCE:

Pentapharm L td . : Sugges ted Formula t ions

5 Euxy l

K-200

The f i l l i n g da ta a re : C on ce nt ra te

95

I s o b u t a n e ( a t

3,2

p s i )

5

?6

w / w

0.01

1 ;oo

50,OO

2,oo

44 49

0,50

2,oo

w/w

71,08

4.00

31 21

5,OO

0,30

8 30

,oo

0,20

0,Ol

0 , 4 0

0,50

3,OO

3,OO

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 378/553

3 56 Cosmetic

and

Toiletry Formulations

Shaving Creme

A .

0

C.

S o f t i s a n 6 01

M i g l y o l 8 1 2

Ma rl ow et TA 6

I m w i t o r 900

NaCl

Ampholyt

J B 1 3 0

Locron

L

Water

Perfume

P r e s e r v a t i v e

t o 1

12 .0

5 . 0

3 . 0

5 . 0

5 . 0

5 . 0

00 . 0

qs

qs

20

E

P r e p a r a t i o n

The c o n s t i t u e n t s o f

A .

a r e mi xe d t o g e t h e r and h e at ed t o

75-8OC. 6 . i s h e a te d t o t h e same te m p e r a t u re a nd g r a d u a l l y

s t i r r e d i n t o A . P erfu me i s i n t r o d u c e d a t a p p r o x . 3 0C.

Shaving Gel

A .

B .

Mar7 a t 242/2 8

Ampholyt

J B

130

Mar lamid DF 1218

A n t i 1 141 l i q u i d

Water

S o f t i g e n 7 6 7

Perfume

S i c o m e t Pa t e n t b l a u *

P r e s e r v a t i v e

50

E

1 0 . 0

5 . 0

1

o

to 1 0 0 0

2 . 0

q s

0 . 0 5

q s

*Sic orne t Pa t e n t b l a u (Pa t e n t b l u e ) 80E 131 1 i n So f t i g e n 767

P r e p a r a t i o n :

The c o n s t i t u e n t s o f

A .

ar e m ixed to ge th e r and warmed t o

appro x . 40C. The co ns t i t u e n t s

o f

6 . a r e m ix e d t o g e t h e r an d

added t o

A .

V i s c o s i t y a t 20C measured i n a B r o o k f i e l d v i s c o -

me te r : 1900 mPa.s.

SOURCE: H u l s

A me ric a I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n s f o r C o s me ti cs :

Suggested

F o r m u l a t i o n s

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 379/553

Shaving Products

57

Ultra Aerosol Shave Cream o r Sensitive Skin

Veegum U l t r a , magnesium a lu minu m s i l i c a t e , i s u se d i n

t h i s

e mu ls io n fo rm u l a t o im prove t h e s t a b i l i t y

o f

t h e l u x u r i o u s l a t h e r

produced by com bin ing Vanseal NACS-30 (sod ium co co y l sa rc os in a t e )

w i t h s t e a r i c a nd c o co n u t a c i d s oa p s. Vanox

PCX

a c t s as an a n t i -

o x i da n t i n t h i s f o r m u l a t i o n .

I n a r e d i e n t

:

Veegum U l t r a (Magnes ium A luminum S i l i c a t e )

Dei on i zed Water

G1 y c e r

T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e

S t e a r i c A c i d

XXX

Coconut Ac id ( 2 )

M i n e r a l O i l

C e t y l A l c o h o l

Vanox PCX

( BHT )

Vanseal NACS-30 (Sodium Coco yl Sa rc o si na te )

Methy lparaben

Fragrance

( 2 )

Emery

622

by

W t

1 o o

75.80

3 . 0 0

4.00

6 . 0 0

1 . 3 0

2

- 5 0

1

o o

0 . 20

5 . 0 0

0 . 2 0

q . s

Procedure :

e l l e r m i x e r a t 7 00 r pm . I n c r e a s e t h e m i x e r speed t o 1 700

r p m

and mix f o r 30 minutes . Add the B i n g r e d i e n t s i n t h e o r d e r shown

w h i l e m i x i n g a t 1700 rpm and h e a t i n g t o 75C. M i x t h e

C

i n g r e d -

i e n t s and h e a t t o 75C. S l o w l y a dd

C

t o (A and 8 ) . A d j u s t t h e

m i x e r s peed t o a v o i d a i r e n tr a pm e nt a nd e x c e s s i v e fo a mi ng . M i x

f o r 10 m in u te s a t 75C, t h e n s lo w t h e m ix e r w h i l e c o o l i n g t o

30C. Add t h e

D

i n g r e d i e n t s i n t h e o r d e r shown and m ix each u n t i l

u n i f o rm . Package i n a e r o s o l c o n t a i n e r s u s i n g

9 5 . 0 w t

o f

Formula

N o .

451 and 5.0 w t . A-46 p r o p e l l e n t .

P ro du ct C h a r a c t e r i s t i c s :

S i f t

Veegum U l t r a i n t o t h e w ate r w h i l e s t i r r i n g w i t h a p ro p -

V i s c o s i t y : 500-700 c p s

pH:

8 . 0+ - 0 . 2

Comments

:

d ev el op me nt o f new p r o d u c t s o r t h e im prove me nt o f e x i s t i n g on es .

SOURCE:

R . T .

V a n d e r b i l t

Co . ,

I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n No.

4 5 1

T h i s p r o t o t y p e f o rm u l a i s d e si gn ed t o s e rv e as a gu id e f o r t h e

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 380/553

Section

X

Soaps and Hand Cleaners

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 381/553

Soap and Hand Cleaners 359

Economy Heavy-Duty Hand Cleaners

Rhodapon

s0

82081s

A1 kamide

LE

Rhodacal A-246/L

T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e

O l e i c A c i d

G l y c e r i n e

A1 kamu 1

s

EGMS

Sod ium Ch lo r i de

Fragrance , Dye, Pr es e r va t i ve

Water

Rhodapon SB 8208/S

A1 kamide

D I N

295/S

Rhodacal A-246/L

T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e

O l e i c A c i d

G1 y c e r i ne

A1 kamul

s

EGMS

Sodi um C h lo r id e

Fragrance, Dye, Pr es e r va t i ve

Water

Wt.

3 . 8

17 .5

0 . 7

0 . 5

1

. o

0 . 6

0.9

Q S

3-4

Q S

t o 100

Wt.

17 .5

0 . 7

0 . 5

1

. o

0 . 5

0 . 9

Q S

3 . 8

2-3

Q . S .

t o 100

Procedure :

smooth a g i t a t i o n , b l e n d i n i n g r e d i e n t s as l i s t e d . C ool t o 30-35C

and b l e n d i n f r a g r an c e , dye, p r e s e r v a t i v e .

T y p i c a l P r o p e r t i es

:

Cha rg e wa t e r i n t o r e a c t o r an d warm t o 75-8OC. W i t h r a p i d b u t

Appearance 25C: P e a r l , l o t i o n - l i ke l i q u i d

V i s c o s i t y 25C: 4 ,000-5 ,000 cps

Formula HA-0097

SOURCE: Rhone-Poulenc: Sugg ested Fo rm ul at io ns

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 382/553

360

Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations

Emulsion Cleaner

I n g r e d i e n t s :

Water

Acusol 820 S ta b i 1 er (30 )

De odo r i zed Kerosene

NaOH

(50 )

as Suppl ie.d

8 8 . 1

1 . 7

1 0 . 0

0 . 2

B r o o k f i e l d V i s c o s i t y c ps ,

0 . 5

rpm: 21,000

12 rpm: 2,300

pH: 9 .2

M i

x i n g I n s t r u c t i o n s :

Add t h e i n g r e d i e n t s i n t h e l i s t e d o rd e r .

H i gh-shear m i x i ng

i s

n ec es sa ry t o

d i s p er s e t h e s o l v e n t s

(ke ro sen e, o i l )

Waterless Hand Cleaner

I n q r e d i e n t s :

Water

A cu so l 820 S t a b i l i z e r

( 3 0 )

NPElO

Deodor ized Kerosene

M i n e r a l

O i l

NaoH

(50 )

as

S up pl i e d

47 .1

1 . 7

3 . 0

3 8 . 0

1 0 . 0

0 .2

B r o o k f i e l d V i s c o s i t y cps ,

0 . 5

rpm: 4,000,000

pH: 7.8

Add t h e i n g r e d i e n t s i n t h e l i s t e d o r d e r .

H i gh-shear

m i

x i ng i s necessary t o d i s pe rs e t h e s o l v e n t s

M i x i n g I n s t r u c t i o n s :

( k e ro s en e , o i 1

) .

SOURCE:

Rohm and Haas

C o . : A C U S O L

8 2 0 S t a b i l i z e r : Suggested

F o r m u l a t i o n s

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 383/553

Soap and Hand Cleaners 36

Emulsion Cleaner and Waterless Hand Cleaner

Emulsion Cleaner

I n g r e d i e n t s :

Water

Acuso l

820

St a b i 1 e r

(30 )

Deodor ized Kerosene

NaOH ( 5 0 )

B r o o k f i e l d V i s c o s i t y cps

0 . 5

rpm: 21,000

12

rpm: 2,300

wH: 9 . 2

Waterless Hand Cleaner

I n g r e d i e n t s :

Water

Acuso l

820

S t a b i l i z e r

(30 )

N P l O

Deo dor i zed Kerosene

M i n e r a l O i l

NaOH (50 )

a s s u p p l i e d

1 . 7

1 0 . 0

0 . 2

8 8 . 1

a s s u p p l i e d

47 .1

1 . 7

3 . 0

1 0 . 0

0 . 2

38.

B r o o k f i e l d V i s c o s i t y

0 . 5

rpm: 4,000,000

P H : 7 .8

M i x i n g I n s t r u c t i o n s :

Add t h e i n g r e d i e n t s i n t h e l i s t e d o r d e r .

H ig h-sh ea r m i x i n g i s n ec es sa ry t o d i s p e r s e t h e s o l v e n t s

( k e ro s e ne , o i 1

)

SOURCE: Rohm and

Ha a s

Co. : Acuso l 8 2 0 S t a b i l i z e r : Suggested

Formu

1

a t n

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 384/553

362 Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations

Fast Set Waterless Hand Cleaner with d-Limonene F-453

d - L i monene*

Monami ne 1255

Monafax 705

G l y c e r i n e

M i n e r a l

O i l

Water

Bv Weiqht

40.0

12 .0

0 . 5

1

. o

2.0

44.5

Procedure :

a g i t a t i o n .

F o r mu l at i on P r o p e r t i e s :

Combine i n o r de r l i s t e d , a d di ng w a te r l a s t w i t h good

Ph y s i c a l Ap pe aran ce : Wh i te r i n g i n g g e l

* TABS-D fr om Un ion Camp may be s u b s t i t u t e d

for

d-Limonene

Clear Geld-Limonene Waterless Hand Cleaner F-454

d - L i monene*

G l y c e r i n e

Monami ne 1255

Monafax 785

Water

Bv

Weight

2 0 . 0

20.0

1 2 . 0

0 5

4 7 5

Procedure :

Combine i n o r d e r l i s t e d , a d d in g w a t er l a s t w i t h g ood

a g i t a t i on.

F o r mu l at i on P r o p e r t i e s :

Phys ica l Appearance:

* TABS-D

(Union Camp

SOURCE:

M o n a I n d u s t r i e s

C l ea r r i n g i n g g e l

may be su b s t i t u te d f o r d -L imonene

I n c . : Sug ge ste d Fo rm u l a t i o n s

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 385/553

Soap and Hand Cleaners 363

Hand Cleaners

Hand Cleaning Paste

B

22/2:

S u l f e t a l

TC

50

Purton SFD

Carboxymethy l c e l l u l o s e 100

So f t soap

Quar tz sand

C h i n a c l a y

So d i u m t r i p o l y p h o s p h a t e

W at er , p er fu m e, p r e s e r v a t i v e

Hand Cleaning Cream, Free of Solvents

T r i ethano

P a r t 8 :

1,2-Propy

Water

P a r t

C :

Perfume

4.0

1

.O

1

.O

12.0

60.0

6.0

1

.O

q . s . t o make 100.0

B

27/8:

P a r t

A :

M u l s i f a n

CPA

Oxypon 288

P a r a f f i n o i l

DAB

O l e i c a c i d

ami ne

e n e g l y c o l

P r e s e r v a t i v e

Hand Cleaning Cream with Solvent

 

27/2:

P a r t A :

Zusol a t 1005/85

S h e l l s o l T

P a r a f f i n o i l

DAB

A e r o s i l 2 0 0

Perfume

P a r t

8 :

Oxypon 2145

E x t r a k t 5 2

Euxyl

K

400

Water

Manu fac tu re :

P a r t B t o P a r t

A

w h i l s t s t i r r i n g .

P a r t

A

a n d Pa r t

B

a r e t o be m ix ed s e p a r a t e l y .

4.0

1

.O

25.0

5.0

2 .5

6.0

56.2

0 -2

0 .1

10.5

34.5

9 .0

1 .O

0.1-0 .2

2.5

15.0

0.2

27.1-27.2

F i n a l l y add

SOURCE: Zschlmrner

&

Schwarr

GmbH

& Co,: Sugges ted Formu la t i ons

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 386/553

364

Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations

Hand Cleaners from Concentrate

Economy

Miracare ANL

Fragrance, Dye, Pr es e r va t i ve

Sod i um C h lo r id e

Water

Pearlescent

M ir a ca re ANL

M i rasheen 202

Fragrance , Dye, P re se rv a t i v e

So d i u m Ch l o r i d e

Water

Miracare ANL

Fragrance , Dye, P re se rv a t i v e

So d i u m Ch l o r i d e

Water

M i r ac a re ANL

Opaci f r E-305

Fragrance, Dye, P re se rv a t i v e

Sod i urn

C h l

o r i de

Water

Premium

Lotion

W

30.1)

Q S

2-3

6 7 . 5

3 2 . 5

7 . 5

Q S

0.5-1

- 5

59 .0

Wt.

40.0

Q S

0 . 5 -1 . 5

59.0

Wt.

37.5

0 . 5

Q . S .

1-2

60.5

Procedure :

ANL. M i x u n t i l c o m p l e te l y u n i f o r m and t h e n b l e n d i n r e m ai n in g

i n g r e d i e n t s i n o rd e r l i s t e d . A d j us t f o rm u la t i o n v i s c o s i t y t o

d e s i r e d l e v e l w i t h a d d i t i o n o f s odium c h l o r i d e , as needed.

P h y s i ca l P r o p e r t i e s

:

A pp ea ra nce : C l e a r , y e l l o w , p e a r l i z e d

o r

opaque

pH, a s i s : 7-0

V i s c o s i t y :

2000-4000

cps

Formula HA-0096

C harge w a t er i n t o m i x i n g v e s se l and s l o w l y b l e n d

i n

M i r a c a r e

SOURCE:

Rhone-Poulenc : Sugges ted Fo rm ula t io ns

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 387/553

Soap and Hand Cleaners 365

Industr ial and Inst itut ional Liquid Hand Soaps

Glucopon & AS

Water

Standapol

WAQ-SP

Glucopon 425 CS

Vel ve te x BA-35

Sod ium Ch lo r ide

Water

Sodium LAS

(60 )

Glucopon 600 CSUP

Vel v e te x BA-35

Standamid

SD

Water

Standapol

ES-2

Glucopon 600 CSUP

Standamid SD

Vel v et e x BA-35

Sod ium Ch lo r ide

Glucopon & LAS

Glucopon & AES

Glucopon & AOS

Water

Sodium

AOS

(40 )

Glucopon 600 CSUP

Standamid SD

Velvetex BA-35

Sod ium Ch lo r ide

V is c os i t y o f P roduc ts : 4000-5000 cPs

61 .O

27.0

6 . 0

2 . 8

3 .2

77.2

10.0

8.0

2 .8

2 .0

58.9

30.0

6 . 0

1 . o

2 .8

1 . 3

67.0

20 .0

6 . 0

1 . o

2 .8

3 . 2

Procedure :

u s i n g m oderate a g i t a t i o n . A d j u s t pH t o 6.5 -7.0 w i t h c i t r i c a c i d .

I n c o r p o r a t e c o l o r and f r a g r a n c e as needed.

SOURCE: Henkel Corp.: Suggested Formula t ions

Add i n t h e o r de r l i s t e d , d i s s o l v i n g each i n g r e d i e n t c o mp le te ly

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 388/553

366 Cosmetic

and

Toiletry Formulations

Liquid Hand Soap Concentrate (Antimicrobial)

Comvonents:

V e l v e t e x

B A - 3 5

G l y c e r i n e

P r o p y l e ne G l y c o l

T r i c l o s a n *

Glucopon

625 CSUP

So d i u m Ch l o r i d e

T e tr as o di um

EDTA

Standapol WAQ-LC

11.7

1.0

. o

. o

15.6

2.0

. o

66.7

Procedure :

Add t h e o r d e r 1 t e d d i s s o l v i ng e ach g r e d i e n t c o m p l e t e l y

u s i n g m od er at e a g i t a t i o n . A d j u s t pH t o

6 .5 -7 .0

w i t h C i t r i c A c i d .

I n c o r p o r a t e p r e s e r v a t i v e ; c o l o r and f r a g r a n c e as needed.

For

use, c o n c e n t r a t e s h ou l d b e d i l u t e d by t h e a d d i t i o n

of

25

w t c o n ce n t r a te t o

71.5 w t

d e i o n i z e d wa t e r and

3.5 w t

sodium c h l o r i d e s o l u t i o n

(25%).

The r e s u l t i n g c l e a r l i q u i d hand

soap w i l l have a v i s c o s i t y o f app rox ima te l y 6 ,000 cps .

*

May a l s o use P-Chloro mela x y l e n o l (PCMX)

Waterless Hand Cleaner (Gel)

O i l

Phase:

Deo dori zed Kerosene

Emersol

213

T r y c o l

5963

Standamid KD

Water Phase:

Water

T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e

G l y c e r i n e

Waterless Hand Cleaner (Lotion)

O i l

Phase:

Oeodori zed Kerosene

Emersol 213

G l y c e r i n e o r

PEG

S t e a r a t e

Water Phase:

Water

T r i

et ha no l ami ne

Pr op yle ne G1 yc o l

Glucopon

425 CS

40.0

7.5

5.0

. o

41 .O

3.5

2.0

W a

40.0

7.5

2.0

40.0

3.0

3.0

4.5

Procedure :

h e a t i n g b ot h t o 60C. S lo w ly p ou r t h e o i l i n t o t h e w at er w h i l e

s t i r r i n g . C o n t i n u e s t i r r i n g w h i l e c o o l i n g u n t i l

a

homogeneous

p r o d u c t i s fo rm ed . I n c o r p o r a t e c o l o r and f r a g r a n c e a s n eed ed .

SOURCE:

Henkel C o r p , : Sugges ted Formu la t i ons

M ix t h e o i l and w a te r phases s e p a ra t e l y i n t h e o r d e r l i s t e d ,

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 389/553

Soap

  and

  Hand Cleaners

  67

Liquid

 Hand Soap Formulations

Miracare  ANK is also an   ideal  base  for  preparation   of

e m o l l i e n t L i q u i d

  Hand Soap products.

  The  rich

  creamy

  lather

typical  of  formu lations der ive d from Miracare  ANK i s extremely

stable even

  in the

  presence

  of

  heavy

  soils.

Lotion Hand Soap

Requires No

 Heat

Water 61.0

Miracare ANK  30.0

Mirasheen 202 7.5

Fragrance, Dye, Pres ervati ve  Q.S.

Sodium  C h l o r i d e  1 .5

B l e n d i n g

  Procedure:

Charge water in to m i x i n g  vessel

  and   blend

  balance

  of

 ingred-

ients

  in order  listed.

Cream Soap

 Requires Heat)

Water 62.0

Mi racare ANK

  35.0

A l k a m u l s  EGMS   1

 .5

Fragrance, Dye, Preservative

  Q.S.

Sod i u m

  C h l o r i d e  1

 .5

Blending  Procedure:

Charge water and ANK

  into

  m i x i n g

  vessel

  and heat to 75C.

Add and

  disperse

  A l ka m u l s

  EGMS. Cool with

  m i x i n g  to  4OC   and   blend

i n

  r e m a i n i n g i n gred i e nts.

Liquid Hand Soap

Parts

  bv

 Weight

Rhodaterge SMC 8

Water  92

Perfume, Dye, Preservative

  Q.S.

SOURCE:

  Rhone-Poulenc:

  Suggested Formulations

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 390/553

  68 Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations

Liquid Soap

Ma r l a t 242/28

M a r l a t

CM

1 0 5

Amphol y t JA

1 4 0

D i o n i l O C / K

Lamepon S

Camomi 1 e Spec i a1

L ime Blossom Spec ia l

C o ll a g e n CLR

Perfume

Co l o u r

P r e s e r v a t i v e

NaCl

Water

t o 1

3 2 . 0

1 8 . 0

1 0 . 0

3 . 0

2 0

0 . 5

0 . 5

0 . 8

qs

qs

qs

qs

100.0

P r e p a r a t i o n :

u n t i l homogeneous. The pH i s a d ju s t e d t o

5 . 5 - 6 . 5 .

The c om pon ents a re m ix e d t o g e t h e r i n se que nc e and s t i r r e d

Liquid Soap

M a r l i n a t 2 4 2 / 2 8

Lamepon S

M a r l i n a t DFN

3 0

M a r l a m i d

PG

20

Ma rl am id DF 1218

Perfume

Co l ou r

P r e s e r v a t i v e

NaCl

Water

1 0 . 0

6 0

3.0

1

. o

qs

qs

qs

qs

t o

1 0 0 . 0

22 o

P r e p a r a t i o n

:

u n t i l homogeneous. The pH i s a d j u s t e d t o 5 . 5 - 6 . 5 .

SOURCE:

H u l s A me ri ca I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n s f o r C o s m et ic s:

The c om po nen ts a re m i xe d t o g e t h e r i n se qu en ce and s t i r r e d

Su g g e s t e d Fo rm u l a t i o n s

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 391/553

0

21/65:

Ze t e s o l

N L

P u r t o n

SFD

Sod i um s u l f a t e

Perfume

C i t r i c a c i d

Wat er , p r e s e r v a t e

Soap and Hand Cleaners 369

Liquid Synthetic Soaps

0

21/64:

E x t r a k t 5 2

P u r t o n

S FD

Water , pe r fume, p r es e r va t i ve , sod ium

c h l o r i d e

43.00

3.00%

3.00%

0.20

0.05

q . s .

t o make 100.00

30.0%

2.0

q . s .

t o make 100.0

0

21/61:

Zeteso l 856 T

Se t a c i n 1 0 3 Sp e z i a l

P e r l g l a n z m i t t e l GM 4055

P u r t o n

SFD

W ate r, p r e s e r v a t i v e , p e rf um e, sod iu m c h l o r i d e ,

c i t r i c a c i d

q . s

B

21/92:

Zeteso l 2056

S e t a c i n 1 0 3 s p e z i a l

P e r l g l a n z m i t t e l

GM

4175

Oxypon 288

S o d i u m c h l o r i d e

W a t e r , p r e s e r v a t i v e

0

21/87:

Zeteso l 2056

Amphotensid

B

4

P u r t o n

CFD

Perfume

W a t e r , p r e s e r v a t i v e

25.0

10.0%

5.0

1

.O

t o make 100.0

25 0

30.0

10.0

2.0

2,0

q . s .

t o make 100 ,0

20 0%

9.0

1 . 5

0.3%

q . s . t o make 100.0

SOURCE:

Zschdmmer

&

Schwarr

GmbH &

C o . :

Su gg e st e d Fo rm u l a t i o n s

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 392/553

37 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Liquid Soap with Aloe Vera Gel

T h is i s a c l e a n s i n g and c o n d i t i o n i n g l i q u i d soap w i t h A lo e

Vera.

Ammonium l a u r y l s u l f a t e , 28 a c t i v e 3 5 .7 0

Ammonium l a u r e t h s u l f a t e , 26 a c t i v e 1 9 .2 0

Phase

B:

C i t r i c a c i d , anhydrous 0 . 2 0

Phase

C :

Dei on i zed wa ter 20 .45

Po lyqua te rn ium-10 0 .75

Phase

D:

Laurami de

DEA

3 .00

L a u ry l m e t h yl g l u c e t h -1 0 h y d ro x y p ro p y l di mo ni um

c h l o r i d e

8 00

PEG-120 me thy l g l uc os e d eo le at e 2.00

T et ra so di urn

EDTA 0 I 2 0

Phase

E :

Al oe Vera Gel (T e rr y AG002) 10 .0 0

Phase

F:

S u t t o c i d e A

0.30

Fragrance qs

Procedure :

Add Phase

A

i n g r e d i e n t s t o m ai n m i x i n g v e s s e l , and co mb in e

w i t h p r o p e l l e r a g i t a t i o n . Heat

t o

60C. D is so lv e Phase

B

i n g r e d i e n t s . I n a p r e mi x c o n t a i n e r , d i s p e r s e Phase C g r e d i e n t s

Hea t t o 60C t o h yd ra te . When Phase

A i s

un if or m , add Phase

C

t o

m ai n v e s s e l , a g i t a t i n g be tw een each a d d i t i o n . C ool b a t c h t o 40C.

Slowly add Phases

E

and

F

w i t h a d e q u a t e m i x i n g .

SOURCE:

T e r r y L a b o r a t o r i e s , I n c . : S ugg es te d F o r m u l a t i o n

Pearlescent Liquid Hand Soap

Phase

A :

I n a r e d i e n t :

Water

DOBSA,

Na s a l t

(60 )

Add, m ix w e l l

L a u ry l e t h e r s u l f a t e , Ammon. s a l t (60 )

Add, m ix w e l l

L y t r o n 295 o p a c i

f e r

Add, m ix w e l l

E u p e r l a n PK-771 p e a r l i z e r

Add, m ix w e l l

Tomah A0-728 S p e c ia l

Add, mix w e l l

t

54.70

23.50

16.50

0.10

2 .2 0

3.00

pH: 7.85

Recommended D i l u t i o n s : 1 o t . / g a l

Ap p l i c a t i o n s : Hand soap o r d is h wa s h

No te s : H i g h foam, d e g re a s i n g - l a n o l i n ca n b e a dd ed f o r f e e l

V i s c o s i t y 360 cp s

SOURCE:

Tomah La bo ra to r i e s , I n c . : Fo rmula

PC-101

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 393/553

Soap and Hand Cleaners 371

Low Cost Clear Cleansing Bar

I n a r e d i e n t s :

P a r t

A :

Pr op yle ne G1 yc o l

11

. o

G1 y c e r i n

7 . 0

Cr ovo l PK-70 (PEG-45 Palm Ke rn el G ly c e r id e s )

3 .0

In c ro m e c ta n t AMEA-70 (A ce ta mi de MEA)

9.3

Cr od as in i c LS30 (Sod i um Lau roy l Sa rcos i na te ) 6 . 7

I n c ro m i d e

CAC

(Cocamide

DEA

Cocoyl Sa rco s ine ) 7 .0

Te a l s * 9 .0

Dei on i zed Water

6 . 0

Sodium Cum enesu l fonat e (45 )

2.0

TEA (99 )

2.0

P a r t

B :

Sucrose 9 . 0

P a r t C :

Tal low Soap

7325 28.0

Procedure :

Add Part

0

w i t h m i x i n g u n t i l u n i fo r m . Add P a r t

C

w i t h m i x i n g

w h i l e h e a t i n g t o

95-1OOC.

M i x in g u n t i l t a l l o w i s d i ss o l ve d

(20-30

m i n u t e s ) . A v o id w a t er l o s s by c o v e r i n g m i x i n g v e s s e l .

Sk i n o f f s u r f a c e f oam and p o ur i n t o m o l ds . A l l o w m old ed soap

t o

c o o l

SOURCE:

Croda I n c , : Fo r mu l a t i o n SC-252

Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t

A

w i t h m i x i n g and h e a t t o 80-9OC.

N.A .T. C. Approved *Standami de

T

Shower Soap

Weight

.

Mackana te EL (D isod ium L aur e th Su l fo su cc ina te )

20.0

Mackanate OM

( D i

sod i um 01 eam ido

MEA

Su l f o s u c c i n a t e ) 1 5. 0

Sod i um La ur y l - S u l f a t e

1 0 .0

Mackami de LLM (L aur ami de DEA) 6 .0

Mackpear l LV (P e ar l Agen t)

3.0

Mackern ium 007 ( Po lyq uat ern ium 7 )

2.5

M a c k s t a t DM

(DMDM

Hy d a n t o i n ) 9 s

C i t r i c

A c i d

qs

t o pH

6 .0

So d i u m Ch l o r i d e

qs

t o

10,000

cps

Water, Dye, Fragrance

qs

t o 10 0.0

Procedure :

1.

Di s p e rs e M a ck erni um 007 i n wa t e r .

2.

Add re ma in in g component and hea t t o 40 degrees C .

3.

A d j us t pH w i t h c i t r i c a c i d .

4. A d j u s t v i s c o s i t y w i t h sodium c h l o r i d e .

5 . Cool and f i l l .

SOURCE:

M c I n t y r e

Group

L t d . : Su g g e s t e d Fo rm u l a t i o n

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 394/553

37 osmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Medicated Skin Cleaner

Rhodapon LT-6

RhodaDon 21

LS

Wt.

2 5 . 0

3 0 . 0

50 Sodi

u m

Hy dr ox i de Aqueous

Sol

u t i on l . S . t o pH

8 . 0

PCMX

1

. o

Water 23.4

Alkamide

DL

203/S 2.5

C y c l o t e r i c BET

C

30 7 .5

Geropon SBFA 30

1 0 .0

A1 kamu 1s

EGMS

0 . 6

Fragrance and Dye Q S

Procedure :

1 . Charge Rhodapon LT-6 and Rhodapon 21LS i n t o mi x in g ve ss el .

Warm system t o 45-50C. Wi th smoo th a g i t a t i o n , a d ju s t pH t o

8 . 0

w i t h s od iu m h y d ro x i d e s o l u t i o n ( 50 Aq . ) , as n ee de d.

M i x u n t i l system i s c o m p le t e l y u n i f o rm .

and wa t e r . Hea t sy st em t o 70-75C w i t h smooth a g i t a t i o n .

A1 kamul

s

EGMS. M a in ta in 70-75C te mp er at ur e u n t i 1 system

c o m p l e t e l y u n i f o r m . C ool t o 40-45C and b l e n d i n co m p a t i b le

f r a g ra n c e a n d d y e .

A pp ea ra nc e: V i s co u s , p e a r l e s c e n t l i q u i d

pH ( a s i s ) : 8 . 0- 8 .5

V i s c o s i t y 25C: 10 ,000-14,000 cps

Ap p ro x . So l i d s

( ) :

30.4

A c t i v e I n g re d i e n t : Pa ra c h l o ro m e t a x y l e n o l (PCMX)

Formula HA-0100

2. W i t h r a p i d b u t smooth a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y b l e n d i n

PCMX.

3 . W i t h smooth a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y b l e n d i n A lk a mi de DL 203/S

4. S lo wl y b le n d i n C y c l o t e r i c

BET

C 30, Geropon SBFA 30 and

T y p ic a l P r o p e r t i e s A f t e r 2 4 Hours :

Heavy-Duty Hand Cleaner

Wt.

Rhodapon S 0

8208/S

30 .0

Rhodacal A-246/L 6. 3

O l e i c A c id 1 . 6

T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e 0 . 9

M i

rasheen 202

10.0

Sodium C h lo r i de 1-3

F ra g ra n c e , Dy e , P re s e rv a t i v e Q S

Water

Q.S

t o 100

Procedure :

M i rasheen

202

and Water i n t o r e a c t o r and m ix u n t i l u n i f or m .

S l o w l y b l e n d i n o l e i c a c i d f o l l o w e d by f ra g ra n ce , dye, p r e s e r v-

a t i v e . A d j u s t v i s c o s i t y b y b l e n d in g i n sodium c h l o r i d e . C on ti nu e

a g i t a t i o n u n t i l system i s u n i f o r m and th e n package.

T y p i c a l P r o p e r t i e s :

Charge Rhodapon

SB

8208/S, Rhodacal A-246/L, Tr ie th an ola mi ne ,

Appearance: W h it e, p e a r l i z e d l i q u i d

pH, a s i s :

7-8

V i s c o s i t y : 2000-3000 c p s

Formula HA-0098

SOURCE:

Rhone-Poulenc: Suggested Fo rm ula t io ns

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 395/553

Soap and Hand

Cleaners

373

Mild Lotion Soap

Rhodapon L-22

Rhodapex MA-360

Cyc lo te r i c BET-C-30

A1 kamide

DC

212/S

Geropon SBFA-30

A1 kamul

s

EGMS

C i t r i c A c i d

Sod ium Ch lo r i de

Water

F rag rance , Dye, Pr es e r va t i ve

Wt.

17.0

3 . 0

2 . 0

1 . 5

5 . 0

1 . o

0 . 5 -1 . 5

Q . S .

t o pH 5 -6

6 9 . 5

Q S

Procedure :

L-22, Rhodapex MA-360, C y c l o t e r i c BET-C-30, Al ka mi de

DC

212/S,

and Rhodacal SBFA-30. Mix u n t i 1 co mp le t e ly u n i fo rm . Heat systems

t o 65-70C. Dis per se A lkamuls EGMS i n t o heate d sys tem and mix

u n t i l u n i f o r m . C ool t o 40-45C and b l en d i n c i t r i c a c i d , f r a g -

rance , dye and p re se rv a t i ve . Add sodium c h l o r i d e , as needed,

t o a d j u s t f o r m u l a t i o n t o d e s i r e d r an ge ( 3,000-6,000 c ps a t 25C ).

T y p i c a l P r o p e r t i es

:

Charge w a t e r i n t o m i x i n g v e s se l and s l o w l y b l e n d i n Rhodapon

A ppe ara nce a t 25C: P e a r l e s c e n t l i q u i d

V i s c o s i t y a t 25C: 3 ,000-6 ,000

cps

as d e s i r e d )

pH ( a s i s ) : 5 -6

So l i d s : 1 3 . 5 -1 4 . 5

Formula HA-0103

Liquid Hand Soap

M i r a t a i ne CB

Rhodapon LSB

Cyclomide DC-212/S

Water

Procedure :

m ix u n t i l u n i f o rm .

P h y s i ca l P r o p e r t i e s :

Add t h e wa t e r . W i t h m i x

Appearance: C lea r , v e r y

V i

s c o s i t y : 6 00 -7 00

S p e c i f i c G r a v i t y

: 1

.04

Formula HA-0071

pH: 8.9-9.0

ng, add t h e remain

l i g h t y e l lo w s o l u t

W

10.0

30.0

2.0

58.0

ng m a t e r i a l s and

on

SOURCE:

Rhone-Poulenc : Sugees ted Fo rm ul a t i on s

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 396/553

374

Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations

Premium Emollient Hand Soap

Rhodacal A-246/L

C y c l o t e r i c

BET-C

30

Alkamide LE

Alkamul EGMS

D i sod i um EDTA

G l y c e r i n e

C i t r i c A c i d

Sod ium Ch lor ide

Frag rance , Dye, Pre se rv a t i v e

Water

Wt.

2 3 . 0

4 .5

1 . 5

2 . 0

0 . 1

0 .2

Q .S . t o pH 6 .2 -6 .7

Q S t o 3 ,000-5 ,000 cps

Q S

Q S t o

100

Procedure :

a t i on , warm t o 70-75C. B lend i n A lkamide

L E ,

Alkamul EGMS,

Disod ium EDTA and G l y c e r i n e . Once sy stem i s u n i f o r m , c o o l t o

35C w i t h s mooth a g i t a t i o n and b l e n d i n f r a g r a n c e , d ye , p r e s -

e r v a t i v e . A d j u s t pH t o 6 .2 -6 .7 w i t h c i t r i c a c i d and add sodium

c h l o r i d e a s needed t o v i s c o s i t y t o 3,00 0-5 ,000 c ps (2 5C ).

T y p i c a l P r o p e r t i e s :

Combine Rhodacal A-246/L and Water and w i t h moderate a g i t -

Appearance: P e a r l i z e d l i q u i d

pH, as i s : 6 .2 -6 .7

V is c o s i t y : 3000-5000 cps

Formula HA-0095

Hand Cleaner

M i r a n o l C2M Conc.

NP

M i r a t a i n e

CB

Rhodapon LSB

Water

Wt.

16.0

5.0

1 6 . 0

6 3 0

A d j us t pH t o 7 .5 w i t h c i t r i c a c i d .

Procedure :

m ix u n t i l u n i f o r m .

P h y s i c a l P r o p e r t i e s :

Add t h e w a t e r . W i t h m i x i n g , add t h e r e m a i n i n g m a t e r i a l s a nd

App earance: S l i g h t l y h azy g e l

pH: 7.5

V i s co s i y : 1500-2000

Speci f Grav i t y 1 .040B

Formula HA-0070

SOURCE:

Rhone-Poulenc: Suggested Fo rm ul at io ns

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 397/553

Soap and Hand Cleaners

375

A l l

q u a n t i t i e s i n d i c a t e d

e x p re s s ed as p a r t s by we i g h t

a re on a p e r c e n ta g e b a s i s

so

any s i z e b at ch may be conven

n t h e f o l l o w i n g f o r m u l a t io n s a r e

o f t h e f i n i s h e d soap. These w e i g h t s

t h a t q u a n t i t i e s n ec es sa ry t o p ro du ce

e n t l y c a l c u l a t e d .

6) Triethanolamine Oleic-Coconut Shampoo (40% Real Soap)

Emery 621 Coconut F a t t y Ac id ( a c i d va lu e 263) 12 .7

Emery 213 Low T i t e r O l e i c Ac i d ( a c i d v a l u e 2 03 ) 1 2 . 7

T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (a v g . m o l .

w t .

1 4 0 ) 1 4 . 7

C a r b i t o 1 7 . 0

W ate r t o 1 0 0 .0

Procedure :

B le nd t h e o l e i c and c oc on ut f a t t y a c i d s . D i s s o l v e t h e

t r i

e t h an o la m i ne i n t h e r e q u i r e d amount o f w a t e r a nd pr o c ee d a s f o r

t h e cocon ut shampoo, fo rm ula

4,

w i t h t h e e x ce p t io n t h a t h e a t i n g

i s n o t e s s e n t i a l . Longer s t an d in g i s r e q u i r e d w i t h o u t h e a t , b u t

t h e a b i l i t y t o make soaps w i t h o u t h e a t i n g may be v a l u a b l e i n

p a r t i c u l a r s i t u a t i o n s .

P r o p e r t i e s and V a r i a t i o n s :

v e r y m i l d and n o n i r r i t a t i n g . The C a r b i t o l g i v e s t h e soap a

p l e a s i n g od or a nd c o n t r i b u t e s

t o

t h e c l e a n s i n g power o f t h e

shampoo.

T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e soaps c an no t b e ch eck ed f o r n e u t r a l i t y b y

t h e usua l methods , b u t even i f an e xcess o f t r ie t h a n o la m i n e i s

p r e s e n t , t h e soap w i 11 be on1 y

m i

1 d l y a1 k a l e .

T h i s soap p ro du ct i s a c l e a r l i q u i d o f amber t o r e d c o l o r ,

7 Coconut-Oleic Hand Soap

(15

Real Soap)

Emery 621 Coconu t F a t t y Ac id ( a c i d va lu e 263) 6 .5

Eme rs ol 213 Low T i t e r O l e i c Ac i d ( a c i d v a l u e 2 03 ) 6 . 5

Ca u s t i c p o t a s h (1 00 )

3.0

W ater t o

100.0

Procedure :

P re pa re as f o r f o r m u l a t i o n 4:

D i s s o l v e t h e c a u s t i c i n t h e n e ce ss ar y amount o f w a t e r ,

h e a t i n g t o 49-54C (12 0-1 30 F), t h e n add t h e f a t t y a c i d i n a

s lo w st ea dy s tr ea m. A g i t a t e w h i l e m i x i n g t h e f a t t y a c i d and

c a u s t i c u n t i l s a p o n i f i c a t i o n i s com ple te . The r e a c t i o n

m i x t u re s h o u l d b e h e a t e d t o 66-71C (150-16OF) d u r i n g t h e

f i n a l s ta ge s

o f

s a p o n i f i c a t i o n .

Perfume as d e s i r e d . A l l o w t h e s oap t o s t a n d and s e t t l e f o r

s e v e r a l d ay s a t n e a r f r e e z i n g te m p e ra t ur e s , i f p o s s i b l e ,

and de ca nt o r f i l t e r t h e soap.

P r o p e r t i e s and V a r i a t i o n s :

D i s t i l l e d p i n e o i l o r o t h e r p er fum e may be added. T h is i s

a t y p i c a l f or m ul a f o r soaps used i n l i q u i d soap d is pe n se rs ,

and many s uc h p ro d u c t s c o n t a i n f l u o r e s c e i n , a d ye t h a t i m p a r t s

a g r ee n i sh-ye1 l ow

f 1

uorescence

.

SOURCE: H enkel Corp./Emery Group: F a t t y A ci ds and T h e i r

Check t h e n e u t r a l i t y o f t h e soap a nd a d j u s t as n e c es s ar y.

Water So lu b le Soaps : Sugges ted For mul a t io ns

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 398/553

376 Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations

Water Free Hand Cleaner

I n a r e d i e n t s :

I s o s t e a r i c a c i d

M in er a l o i l

B r i j

3 0

Tween

81

Procedure :

M ix w e l l a t room t e m p e r a t u r e .

Waterless Hand Cleaner

I n g r e d i e n t s :

A I s o p a r a f f i n i c hy droc arbo n

La no l i n

C e t y l a1 coho1

P a r a f f i n wax

A r l a c e l

60

Tween

60

B

G l y c e r i n

Wate r, de i on i zed

* P r e s e r v a t i v e

* q .

s . t h e s e g r e d i e n t s .

2 0 . 0 0

60.00

1 5 . 0 0

5 . 0 0

30.00

1 . 0 0

3.00

2.00

1 . o o

4.00

5 . 0 0

54 00

Procedure :

modera te s t i r r i n g . S t i r t o

35C

and add w a t e r l o s t due t o

e v a p o r a t i o n .

He at (A) t o 70C. Hea t (B ) t o 72C. Add (B ) t o (A ) s l o w l y w i t h

Waterless Hand Cleaner

I n a r e d i e n t s :

A Magnesi um a1 umi num s i

1

c a t e

Wate r, de i on i zed

B

A r l a c e l 6 0

Tween 60

Deodor i zed kerosene

C

M et hy l c e l l u l ose, 4000 cps

Wate r, de i on i zed

* P r e s e r v a t i v e

* q . s . t h es e i n g r e d i e n t s .

w/w

2 . 5 0

30.00

2.00

35.00

0 . 5 0

22.00

8 . 0 0

Procedure :

A-Add

MAS

t o H20 s l o w l y , a g i t a t i n g c o n t i n u a l l y u n t i l smooth.

(About

1

h o u r ) . H e a t

A )

t o 62C. 8 -Hea t t o 60C. Add (A ) t o ( 8 ) .

S t i r

u n t i l c o o l . C -Heat 1 /2

o f

H20 t o 9OC and add m e th y l c e l l u lo s e

s l o w l y w i t h a g i t a t i o n u n t i l d i sp er se d . Add ( C) t o (A&B) w i t h

a gi t a t n .

SOURCE: IC1

S u r f a c t a n t s : S ug ge st ed F o r m u l a t i o n s

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 399/553

Soap and Hand Cleaners 377

Waterless Hand Cleaner

A . M o n t m o r i l l o n i t e

( 1 )

Water

B .

Potass ium Hydrox ide

Water

C .

O l e i c A c id

Deodor ized Kerosene

P o l y s o r b a t e

80,

A ce ty la te d Lano l A1 coho1

,

C e t y l A c e t at e ( 2 )

P e t r o l a t u m

D .

Acuscrub

50

P r e s e r v a t i v e s

W S

3 . 0

3 9 . 5

1 5

10

6.0

25.0

3 . 0

2.0

1 0 . 0

q . s .

Procedure :

S lo w ly add t h e M o n t m o r i l l o n i t e t o t h e wa te r w h i l e a g i t a t i n g

a t maximum a v a i l a b l e s h e a r . D i s s o l v e t h e p o t a s s iu m h y d r o x i d e

i n t h e w a t e r , Add

B

t o

A

w i t h medium she ar . Heat

A / B

t o

6 0 C .

Combine

C

and hea t t o 65C. Cool t o 50C, the n s lo w ly add

Acuscrub

50

u n t i l c o o le d t o 30C. Add p r e s e r v a t i v e s and mix u n t i l

smoo

(

A . 0

h and un i fo rm.

) M i n e r a l C o l l o i d BP

( 2 )

So l u l a n 9 8

Waterless Hand Cleaner

1 Phase:

P et ro le um D i s t i l l a t e s ( 1 )

O l e i c A c id

C12-15 Pare th-3 (2)

Lano l i n

B . Water Phase:

Water

T r i e t han o l ami ne

G l y c e r i n

W

3 0 . 0

6 . 0

4 0

0 . 5

4 4 . 5

3.0

2 . 0

C . Acuscrub

50

1 0 . 0

Procedure :

50 s l o w l y t o t h e o i l phase w i t h m oderate a g i t a t i o n , S lo w ly p our

t h e w ate r phase i n t o t h e o i l phase w i t h co ns ta nt s t i r r i n g u n t i l

a smooth and un i f o rm ge l i s fo rmed .

H eat b o t h o i l and w a t er phases s e p a r a t e l y t o 5 5 C . Add Acuscrub

1 ) S h e l l

Sol

71 ( 2 ) Neodol 25-3

SOURCE: A l l i e d S i gn a l I n c . : S ugg este d F o r mu l at io n s

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 400/553

378 Cosmetic and

Toiletry

Formulations

Waterless Hand Cleaner

No. 390

Van Gel

B

Water

Water

O l e i c a c i d

Deodor ized kerosene

A CMC 7MF

B

Po ta ss i um hy dr ox ide

C

C a r n a t i o n W h i t e M i n e r a l

O i l

1 . 7

0 . 3

44.0

1

. o

3.0

10 .0

10.0

30.0

P r e s e r v a t i v e q . s .

Procedure :

a g i t a t i n g a t maximum a v a i l a b l e s he a r. C o n t i n ue m i x i n g u n t i l

smooth. Add

B

t o

A

and m ix u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add

C

t o

A / B

and

m ix u n t i l e m u l s io n i s smooth and u n i f o r m . Add d e s i r e d p r e s -

e r v a t e

.

Con s is t enc y : Med i um v i sc os i t y c ream.

Sug ges ted Packa gi ng : Pump

o r

wide mou th co n ta i ne r

.

Comments:

Van Gel B/CMC t h i ck en s t h i s c o ld p rocess f o rm u la

t o a

medium

v i s c o s i t y cream w h i l e s t a b i l i z i n g t h e e mu ls io n f r o m b l e e d and

s e p a r a t i o n . P ot as si um o l e a t e a l l o w s good c l e a n s i n g a c t i o n a t a

pH o f 8 . The m i ne r a l o i l m in im i ze s d e f a t t i n g o f t h e s k i n caused

b y t h e d e o d o r i z e d k e ro s e ne .

Blend Van Gel

B

and

CMC.

S l o wl y add t o t h e w a te r w h i l e

Liqu id

Waterless Hand Cleaner No.

243

Veegum

G l y c e r i n

2-Amino-2-methy l -1-propanol

Deodor i zed kerosene

O l e i c a c i d

C

A r l a c e l 1 8 6

C1 e a r la n

A Water

B

Terg i to l NP-10

2.0

73.0

4 .0

3 . 0

0 . 5

10.0

1 . 5

5 . 0

1

. o

P r e s e r v a t i v e q . s .

Procedure :

S l o w l y add Veegum t o t h e wa t e r w h i l e a g i t a t i n g a t maximum

a v a i l a b l e s he ar . C o n t i n ue m i x i n g u n t i l smooth. Add B t o

A

and

h ea t t o

5 0 C .

Heat

C

t o 55C. Add

C

t o

A / B .

M ix u n t i l u n i fo rm .

Add d e s i r e d p r e s e r v a t i v e .

C o ns is te n cy : P o ur ab le l i q u i d

Suggested Packaging: Pump dispenser

Comments

:

f o r m u l a t i o n , g l y c e r i n s e rv es as a h um ecta nt w h i l e t h e l a n o l i n

h e lp s p r ev e n t d e f a t t i n g

o f

t h e s k i n .

SOURCE: R . T .

Va n d e r b l l t Co .: Sug ge st ed Fo rm u l a t i o n s

Veegum s t a b i l i z e s and th i c k e n s t h i s l i q u i d em ul si on . I n t h i s

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 401/553

Section XI

Sun Care Products

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 402/553

38 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Absorbing Sunscreen

Formula:

Phase

A :

Veegum U l t r a

Dei o n i zed Water

G l y c e r i n

Phase

:

PEG-1 50 D i s t e a r a t e

D i o c t y l Mal a t e

C a r n a t i o n

M i

n e r a l

O i

1

C e t y l A l c o h o l

Benzophenone-3

Octy l D imethy l PABA

S t e a r e t h - 2

S teare th -20

Phase C :

P r e s e r v a t i v e , F r a g r a n c e

Synergistic Sunscreen

4 - t e r t - B u t y l - 4 - m e t h o x y d i - b e n z o y l m e t h a n e

Amyl N,N -di me thy l -p-ami nob enz oat e

2-Hydroxy-4-methoxy-benzophenone

C e t y l a l c o h o l

S t e a r i c a c i d

P ro tope t 1 S P e t r o l a t u m

O l i v e O i l

Squa l ane

P r o py l en e g l y c o l

Po t ass i um hy dr ox i de

T a l c

T r i s o d i um EDTA

Water

%Wt.

1 .5 0

70 .50

5 .50

3 . 0 0

2 . 0 0

4.00

0.50

3 . 0 0

7 . 0 0

0 .90

2.10

q . s .

2 .00

3 . 0 0

2.00

3 .00

3 . 0 0

3.00

3.00

5 .00

3 . 0 0

0 . 2 0

5 . 0 0

0 .02

q . s t o 1 00 .0 0

S OU R C E

W i t c o Corp . : P e t ro leum S p e c i a l t i e s G roup: S uggested

F o r m u l a t i o n s

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 403/553

Sun Care Products

381

Absorbing Sunscreen

Formula:

Phase A :

L-Ty r os i ne

Phenyl a1 ani ne

A s p a r t i c a c i d

Esc i n

Copper g luconate

Hy dro 1 y ze d c o l l agen

C a r r o t o l e o r e s i n

S t .

J o h n ' s Wort e x t r a c t

D i

hydroxyacetone

C e t y l a l c o h o l

P r e s e r v a t i v e

E m u l s i f i e r s , t h i c k e n i n g a ge nt s

C a r n a t i o n M i n e r a l O i l

Lanol i n

S t e a r i n

T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (85%)

Water

0.20%

0.10

0.10

0 . 0 5

0.01

1.50

0.15

. o o

0.50

. o o

4.00

15.00

3.00

3.00

1 - 0 0

q . s .

up t o 100.00

q . s .

Water Resistant SP4 Sunscreen Composition

Water

G l y c e r i n

P o l y g l y c e r y l - 8 o l e a t e

Padimate

0

Cyc lometh icone

C a r n a t i o n M i n e r a l O i 1

Lanol i a1 coho1

P ro p yl en e g l y c o l ( an d) d i a z o l i d i n y l u r e a ( a nd )

Perfume o i l

paraben (and) propyl paraben (Germaben 1 1 )

Non-Alcoholic Sunscreen

Octy l d imethyl PABA

Benzophenone-3

C a r n a t i o n M i n e r a l O i 1

O l e t h - 2

I s o c e t e t h - 2 0

Water

P r o p y l e n e g l y c o l

S o r b i t o 1

67.00%

5.00

3.00

4.00

10.00

5.00

5.00

0.50

0.50

methy l

7.00%

3.00

10.00

6.25

40.00

4.00

o o

18.75

SOURCE: W i t c o C o r p . : P e t r o le u m S p e c i a l t i e s G ro up: S ug ge st ed

F o r m u l a t i o n s

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 404/553

382 Cosmetic and

Toiletry Formulations

After Sun Lotion

P a r t

I

Water

Carbomer

934

P a r t 11:

Rosswax 2540

Rosswax 1824

76

O i

Coconut

O i l

GMS SE

Ross Jojoba

P a r t 111:

Aloe Vera

L

P a r t

I V :

Germaben I 1

P a r t V :

F rag rance

Pa r t s by Wei ah t

500.0

2 . 0

6.0

15.0

25.0

6.0

4.0

q u i d 10.0

6 . 0

P a r t V I :

T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e

q . s .

4.5

Procedure:

934

w i t h a g i t a t i o n . I n a se pa ra te ja c ke t e d k e t t l e h ea t P a r t

I 1

u n t i l c l e a r . Next add P a r t 111, t h e n P a r t I V , t h e n P a r t

V ,

f r a g r an c e and f i n a l l y add P a r t V I . Cool t o 130F and package.

H ea t t h e w a te r i n a steam j ac ke te d k e t t l e and add t h e Carbomer

Solar Tanning Oil Mousse

P a r t ( A ) :

R o s s Base

O i l 2539

E s c a l o l

507

A r l a c e l 6 0

Tween 60

P a r t 9 ) :

Water

Germaben I 1

F rag rance

%

62

.s

5.0

3.0

4.0

24.7

. o

q . s

Procedure:

H ea t P a r t ( A ) and P a r t ( B) i n s e p ar a te s t a i n l e s s s t e e l

v e ss e ls under g e n t l e a g i t a t i o n t o

170F.

When temp era tu re i s

r ea ch ed and b o t h a r e c l e a r , add P a r t ( B) t o P a r t ( A ) , c o o l t o

120F,

Fragrance and package.

A e roso l F i l l : 90% o f above c o n c e n t r a t e

N o t e : Pack i n Epon l i n e d ca ns w i t h P r e c i s i o n V a l v e Syste ms.

S OU R C E

Frank 9 . Ross

Co.,

I n c . : S ug ge st ed F o r m u l a t i o n s

10%

o f

A-46

P ro pe l l e n t

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 405/553

Sun Care Products 383

Aloe After Sun Lotion (40 Aloe)

I n q r e d i e n t s :

A . Water

G1 y c e r i n

T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e

Germaben

I 1

0 . S t e a r i c A c id

L i g h t m in er al o i l

F i n e s o l v

TN

C e t y l A l c o h o l

S i l i c o n F l u i d 225

Cocoa Bu t te r

I s o p r o p y l L a n o l a t e

P e rcen t

74.00

3.0

. o

0 . 5

8 . 0

5 . 0

2 . 0

1

. o

0.5

2.0

2.0

C . A l o e Ve ra ge l L i q u i d C o n c e n t ra t e 1:40 1

. o

D .

Fragrance q . s .

Procedure:

Heat phases t o 80C. A t 80C add o i l phase t o w a te r phase .

M i x and coo l t o 55C. Add A l oe con cen t ra t e t o ba t ch a t 5%.

Add f r a g r a n c e a t

45C.

Suntan Lotion

I n q r e d i e n t s :

A . Lexemul 561

S t e a r i c a c i d

Ce ty l a1 coho1

M in er a l o i l

Sesame o i l

Laneth

10

A c e t a t e

E t h y l D i h yd ro xy p ro p yl PABA

Mink o i l

Po lysorba te 20

Lexgard P

B. P ropy l ene G l y co l

Carbomer

934

T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e

A l o e Ve ra L i q u i d 1:l

Lexgard M

Water

P e rcen t

4.00

2.00

. o o

4.00

. o o

0.50

3.00

0.10

0.20

0.05

4.00

0.20

10.00

0.15

qs t o pH 7 . 2 - 7 . 5

qs

to 100

Procedure:

t h e n n e u t r a l i z e . D i s s o l v e L ex ga rd

M

i n p r o py l e n e g l y c o l and add

t o t h e w at er w i t h t h e r e ma in in g c o nt e n ts o f P a r t B. S e p a r a t e l y

m e l t c on t en t s o f P a r t

A

t o g e t h e r . S l o w ly add P a r t A t o P ar t

B

w i t h a g i t a t i o n . Cool t o s e t p o i n t and

f i l l .

F u l l c o n d i t i o n i ng

develops i n 24 hours .

SOURCE:

D r .

M ad js L a b o r a t o r i e s I n c . : S ug ge st ed F o r m u l a t i o n s

Heat wa te r t o 7OC. Di sp er se Carbomer

934.

M ix u n t i l d i s so l ve d ,

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 406/553

384 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Aloe Suntan Lotion

I n g r e d i e n t s :

A .

Water

G1 y c e r i

Glucamate SSG-20

Carbopol 934

P r e s e r v a t i v e s

B . G1 ucate-SS

C e t y l a l c o h o l

C e ty l p a l m i t a t e

G l y c e ry l s t e a r a t e

P . E . G . 100 s t e a r a t e

S t e a r i c a c i d

E s c a l o l 507

M in er a l o i l

P e rcen t

q . s

4.0

1 .5

0 . 1

q . s

1 . 5

1

. o

1 . o

0.22

0.28

4.0

4 . 0

5.0

C . A.M.P.-95 0.32

D . Al oe Ver age l 200 Powder

0 . 1

W ate r 9 .9

Procedure:

D i s s o lv e t h e

S . D .

A l oe V era i n w a te r t o p r e p a re g e l . H ea t

ba l ance

o f

w ate r t o 80C and d i s s o l v e C a rbopo l . Add r e s t o f Phase

“ A ” and keep te mp er at ur e a t 80C. Heat phase

” B ”

t o 80C. and add

t o ” A ” . Add phase

” C ” .

Cool t o 35C. and add ’ I D ” . M ix we1 1 .

After Sun Lotion

I n g r e d i e n t s :

A . Water

Carbomer

B . Rosswax 2540

Rosswax 1824

Coconut

O i l #6

Gms

S E

Ross Jojoba

O i

1

P ercen t

500.0

g r .

2 . 0 g r .

6 . 0

g r .

1 5. 0 g r .

1 5 . 0 g r .

6.0 g r .

4 . 0 g r .

C . A l oe Vera L i q u i d 1 : l 1 0. 0 g r .

D . Germaben I 1

6 . 0

g r .

E . F rag rance q . s .

F . T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e 4 .5 g r .

Procedure:

H ea t t h e w a t e r i n s tea m j a c k e t e d k e t t l e and a dd t h e Carbomer

934 w i t h a g i t a t i o n . I n a s ep a ra te j a c k e te d k e t t l e , h e at B t i l l

c l e a r . N ex t add

B

t o t h e w a te r p hase w i t h a g i t a t i o n . N ex t add

C, t h e n D, t h e n E , f r a g r a n c e and f i n a l l y a dd F. C oo l t o 1 30F and

package.

SOURCE: D r . M ad is L a b o r a t o r i e s I n c .

:

S uggested F o r mu l a t i ons

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 407/553

Sun

Care

Products

385

Buffered Self Tanning Lotion

R e s u l t i n g p r o du c t i s a p o ur a b l e l o t i o n t h a t c o u l d be dis pe ns ed

f ro m an opaque g la s s o r r i g i d p l a s t i c b o t t l e . The f o r m u l a t i o n

u t i l i z e s a 5% D i hy d ro x y ac e to n e (DHA) a s t h e s e l f t a n n i n g

i n g r e d i e n t . The f o r m u l a t i o n c o n t a in s n o amines t o r e a c t w i t h

D i h yd r ox y a ce t o ne a nd t h e f i n a l pH

i s

a d j u s te d t o a p p ro x im a t e l y

4, t o i n s u r e n a t u r a l c o l o r e d t a n d ev elo pm en t. The f o r m u l a t i o n

a p p l i e s e a s i l y and e v e nl y . The f i n i s h e d p r o d u c t s h o u ld be

s t o r e d away f r o m l i g h t a nd a t t e m p e r a t u r e c o n d i t i o n s b e lo w 40C

t o p re ve n t

DHA

f r om deg rad i ng .

?&&

A . Dei on i zed Water 62.18

Methy lparaben (Lexgard

M)

0.20

2,4 -D ich lo ro benz y l A l c oh o l (Myac ide SP) 0 .20

Pro pyle ne G ly c o l USP 3.0 0

G l y c e r i n 1 . o o

C i t r i c Ac id USP-FCC (Anhydrous F i ne Gr an u l a r ) 0 .24

Sodium C i t r a t e USP-FCC 0. 28

B.

H y d ro x ye t hy l ce l u l o s e ( Ce l o s i ze PP-15,OOOH) 0 .20

C .

Gl yc er y l S t ea ra te (Lexemul 515) 2 .00

G ly ce ry l S te ar at e (and) PEG-100 St ea ra te (Lexemul 56 ) 4.00

S o r b i t a n S t e a r a t e ( A r l ace1 60) 0.60

P ropy l ene G1 yc o l D i ca p r y l a t e /D i cap r a te

(

Lex o l PO-865 2.00

C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e ( L e x o l GT-865) 3 .0 0

O c t y l S t e a r a t e ( L e x o l EHS) 1 . o o

Propy lparaben (Lexgard P ) 0 .10

D. Dihydroxyace tone 5 .00

De io ni zed Water 15.00

Procedure :

1 . Combine sec t i on A he a t i ng t o 75-8OC. Use a p r o p e l l e r m i xe r

f o r a g i t a t i o n .

2 . S p r i n k l e s e c t i o n

8

i n t o s e c t i o n A . I n c r e a s e m i x i n g s pe ed

t o c r e a t e a v o r t e x d u r i n g a d d i t i o n , t h en s lo w t o h i g h es t

speed wh ich does no t p rod uce a vo r t ex .

3 . Combine s e c t i o n

C .

He at t o 80-85C w i t h c o n t i n u o u s s l ow

m i x i ng.

4. When sect ions AB and Cot ar e homogeneous and a t t h e d es ig -

n a t e d t e m p e r a t u r e s a d d s e c t i o n C t o s e c t i o n s "AB". I n c r e a s e

m i x i n g s pe ed t o a h i g h spe ed . B e g in c o o l i n g . S lo w m i x i n g s pe ed

t o h i gh e s t speed p o s s i b l e t h a t w i l l n o t c ause v o r t e x i n g .

a n d c o o l i n g .

5 . U s i ng g l oves , combine se c t i o n D and m ix u n t i l c l e a r .

6 .

A dd sec t i on D t o se c t i o ns "ABC" a t 35-4013. Con t in ue m ix in g

7 .

A t

30-35C a d j u s t f o r w a t er l o s s .

8 . M ix b at ch u n t i l i t reaches room temperature .

9 . A d j u s t f i n a l pH t o 4.00-4.10 w i t h C i t r i c A c i d o r Sodium

C i t r a t e s o l u t i o n s , as r e qu i re d .

P h y s i c a l P r o p e r t i e s :

V i s c o s i t y : 1,700 cPs @ 24C ( B r o o k f i e l d RVT, T A 10 rpm)

pH:

1.0

24C

SOURCE: I n o l e x C hemi ca l C o. : F o r mu l a t i o n 398-101-1

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 408/553

386

Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations

Cooling After Sun Lotion

I n g r e d i e n t s :

Phase A :

P o l y g l y c e r y l - 3 M e t h y l G lu c os e D i s t e a r a t e ( Te go C ar e

C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e s ( T e go s o ft CT)

M i n e r a l

O i l

Phase 8:

G1 y c e r i n

Water

Phase C:

M i n e r a l O i l

Carbomer 941

Ethano l

Phase D :

Sodium H yd ro x i de (10% so l u t i o n )

Phase E :

Fragrance

P r e s e r v a t i v e s

Procedure :

1 . Heat t h e i n g r e d i e n t s

o f

Phase A t o 80C.

2 .

H ea t t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f P hase B t o 80C.

3. Add A t o 0 o r € t o A w i th o u t s t i r r i n g . 4 . S t i r .

5 . D is p er se Carbomer i n t o t h e o i l / e s t e r add t o A / B .

6 . Cool t o 35-40C w i t h s t i r r i n g .

7.

Add Ethanol .

8. Add phase

D / E .

S t i r .

9 . M ix u n t i l v i s c o s i t y i s c o r r e c t .

w

450)

2 . 0

6 . 5

5.7

3 . 0

71 .4

0 .8

0 . 2

10 .0

0 . 4

Q . S .

Q . S .

Homogenize

Suntan Lotion

I n g r e d i e n t s :

Phase A :

P o l yg l yc e r y l - 3 Me thy l G lucose D i s te a r a t e (Tego Ca re 450 ) 2 . 0

D ecy l O l ea te (T egoso f t DO) 6 . 5

Oc ty l Methoxyc innamate

7 . 0

Oxybenzone 3.0

Phase

8:

G l y c e r i n 3 . 0

Water 71 . 4

Phase C :

I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e ( T eg o s of t P ) 0 .8

Carbomer 941 0 . 2

Phase D :

Sod i urn Hy d ro xi de

( 1 0%

s o l u t i on ) 0 .4

Phase E:

F ragrance Q . S .

P r e s e r v a t i v es

Q . S .

Procedure:

1 .

He at t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase A t o 80C. 2 . H ea t t h e i n g r e d -

i e n t s o f Phase B t o 80C. 3 . Add

A

t o B o r

B

t o A w i t h o u t

s t i r r i n g . 4 . S t i r . 5 . D is p er se Carbomer i n t o t h e o i l / e s t e r

add t o

A / B .

Homogenize.

6 .

Cool t o 35-40C w i t h s t i r r i n g .

7 . Add Phase

D / E .

S t i r . 8 . M i x u n t i l v i s c o s i t y i s c o r r e c t .

I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e ( T e g o s o f t

P)

5 . 7

SOURCE: Go lds ch mi dt Chemical Co rp .: Suggested For mu la t i on s

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 409/553

Sun

Care

Products 387

Daily UV Protection Lotion (Approximate SPF 18)

D er ma cr yl LT p r o v i d e s i n c r e a s e d m o i s t u r e p r o t e c t i o n , r u b - o f f

r e s i s t a n c e and w a te r r e s i s t a n c e as w e l l as i mp ro ve d r u b - i n

p r o p e r t i e s I

I n n r e d i e n t s :

Phase A :

Neo Hel iopan

B r i j 76

Cerasyn t

Q

C ety l A l coho

Emersol 132

T i o v e i l F IN

F i n s o l v TN

DC 334 F l u i d

DC 5 5 6 F l u i d

Abi l 88852

Phase 0:

AV

Deion ized Water

T r i et ha no l ami ne (99%)

Dermacry l LT

Neo Hel iopan Hydro

Carb opol 940 (2% Aq. S o ln .)

Phase C:

P ropy l ene G l yco l

D ry -F l o

PC

Phase D :

Germaben I I E

7.50

1 - 0 0

1

.so

1 .oo

1.50

1.70

5.00

3.00

1 . o o

0.50

40.30

4.00

1 .oo

4.00

20.00

3.00

3 .00

1

. o o

Procedure:

Phase B:

S lo w l y s i f t i n Dermacry l

LT,

h e a t t o 80C. When c o mp le te , s i f t

i n Neo Hel i opa n Hydro and Carbopol

940,

m ix u n t i l c om pl et e.

Phase A :

Combine and he a t t o 80C. Add Phase

A

t o Phase 0 a t 80C, mix

f o r 1 5-30 m i n u t e s. C oo l t o 40C. S l u r r y D r y - F lo PC i n P ro py le ne

G l y c o l , add t o A and B a t 40C and mix th o ro ug h ly . Add Phase

D

Cool t o room tem per atu re and package.

SOURCE: N a t i o n a l S t a r c h and Chem ical Co. : Formula 7520-1490

Combine T r ie t ha no la mi ne 99% and De io n ized Water , he a t t o 60C.

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 410/553

388

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

European O/W Sun Protection Cream

I n a r e d i e n t s :

A M in er a l o i l

Isohexadecane

Oc ty l Methoxyc i nn i mate

Cyc lometh i cone

Ar lamo l E

Beheny l a l coho l

Tocophe r o1 A c e t a t e

B

A r l a tone 2121

G l y c e r o l

* P r e s e r v a t i v e

Water

C

Xanthan gum

D *Perfume

*q .

s .

t h e s e i g r e d i e n t s I

10.00

5 .00

5 . 0 0

2 . 8 0

1 .20

2.00

5 .50

5 .50

4.00

62.85

0 . 1 0

Procedure :

D i spe rse ( C ) an d (B ) a t 75C w i t h m od e ra te s t i r r i n g . Add he a t ed

( A ) , ( E ) , and

(F)

t o m i x t u r e w i t h v i g o ro u s s t i r r i n g . Homogen-

i z e mi x t u r e be tween 75C and 65C and co o l t o 40C w i t h modera te

s t i r r i n g . Homogenize a t 30C t o 40C w i t h a d d i t i o n o f ( D) .

M e l t A r la to ne 2121 and add t o rema inder o f (B ) a t 8OC.

O/W Moisturizing Sunscreen Cream

I n a r e d i e n t s :

O c t y l d i m e t h y l PABA

Benzo~henone-3

M in er a l o i l

S t e a r y l a l c o h o l

B r i j 721

B r i j 72

Dimeth i cone

Water

Carbomer 940

w/w

7.00

3 .00

5.00

0 .50

2 .00

2 .00

0 .50

79.60

0 . 2 0

Sodium hydrox ide (10%

W /W

aqueous) 0.20

* P re se r va t i ve and F rag rance

* q. s. t h e s e i n g r e d i e n t s .

P rocedure :

72C. and add (B) t o ( A ) w i t h p r o p e l l e r a g i t a t i o n . S l o w l y add

( C )

and inc rease speed o f t h e a g i t a t i o n as n ee ded . Add ( D )

and r e p l a c e wa te r l o s t b y e v a p o r a t i o n .

SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : S ug ge st ed F o r m u l a t i o n s

Disperse Carbomer

i n

w ate r and hea t (B) t o 70C. H ea t (A) t o

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 411/553

Sun

Care Products 389

Lip Balm with Sunscreen-A

I n g r e d i e n t s :

Phase A :

P e t r o l a t u m

C e t y l A l c o h o l

Beeswax

Carnauba Wax

P a r a f f

O z o k e r i t e

C et y l D imeth icone ( A b i l Wax 9801)

S t e a r y l D im eth ico ne (Ab i 1 Wax 9800)

C a p ry l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e s ( T e go s o ft CT)

C e t e a r y l O ct an o at e ( T e g o s o ft L i q u i d )

M i n e r a l

O i l

Phase 8:

Oc ty l Methoxyc innamate

Benzophenone-3

Phase C :

C o l o r

Fragrance

Lip Balm with Sunscreen-B

I n a r e d i e n t s :

Phase

A :

P e t r o l a t u m

C e t y l A1 coho1

Beeswax

Carnauba Wax

P a r a f f i

O z o k e r i t e

Ce ty l D imeth icone ( A b i l Wax 9801)

S t ea ry l D imeth i c one (A b i l Wax 9800)

C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e s ( T e g o s o f t CT)

C e t e a r y l O ct a no a te (T e go so ft L i q u i d )

M i n e r a l O i l

Phase 8:

Oc ty l Methoxyc innamate

Benzophenone-3

Phase

C :

C o l o r

F rag rance

40 .7

4.0

6 . 0

6 . 4

1 6 . 4

6 . 0

1 . o

1 . o

5 . 0

3 . 0

5 . 0

4 . 0

1 . 5

Q.S.

Q.S.

w

44 .5

6 . 0

1 4 . 0

2 . 0

8 . 0

3 . 0

0 . 5

0 . 5

8 . 0

3 .0

5 . 0

4 . 0

1 . 5

Q.S.

Q.S.

Procedure:

1. Heat Phase A i n g r e d i e n t s t o g e t h er u n t i l m e lt ed . B eg in c o o l in g .

2 .

Add

Phase

B,

m ix u n t i l u n i fo r m .

3 . Add c o l o r and f r ag rance when ba t ch i s coo l ed t o a c reamy

SOURCE: Goldschmidt Ch e m ica l Corp.

:

Sugges ted Formu la t i ons

c o n s i s t e n c y . 4 . Mold .

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 412/553

39 Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations

Non-Chemical Sunscreen Lotion (approx. SPF 15)

T h i s l o t i o n i n c o r po r a t e s t i t a n i u m d i o x i d e as t h e sun scree n

agent . I t has a smooth f e e l upon a p p l i c a t i o n a nd r u b s i n e a s i l y

w i t h ou t w h i t en i ng . The Geahlene

750

adds th ickness and may

c o n t r i b u t e t o wa te r r e s i s ta n ce and p r od u ct s t a b i l i t y .

Inared ient /T rade Name:

A

Deion ized Water

Magnesium A luminum S i l i ca te / Veegu m U l t r a

Xanthan Gum/Kel t ro l

Methy lparaben

Te tr asod iu m EDTA/Hamp-Ene 220

0 M i n e r a l O i l (and) Hydrogena ted Bu ty le ne /E th y lene /

S ty ren e Copolymer (and) Hydrogena ted E thy le ne /

Propy lene/Styrene Copolymer / /Geahlene 750

C12-15 A1 k y l Be nz oa te /F ins ol v

TN

T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e / M i c r o n i z e d T i 0 2 LA-20

Phenoxyethanol /Emeressence

1160

S te a r i c A c id /Emerso l 132

Gl yc er y l S t ea ra te SE/Lexemul T

DEA-Cetyl Phosphate/Amphisol

P ropy lparaben

C Fragrance

Weiaht%

64.80

0 .80

0 .25

0.20

0.10

10.00

1 0 . 0 0

6 .00

0 . 7 0

2 . 5 0

2 .00

2 .50

0 . 1 0

0 .05

Procedure:

D i spe rse Veegum U1 t r a r a p i d l y a g i t a t e d de i on i zed w a te r .

M i x w e l l . Add K e l t r o l . M ix u n t i l u n i f o rm . Heat t o

8 0 C .

Add

r em ai n i n g p a r t

A

i

gr ed i e n t s, Homogeni ze

F i

n s o l v

TN

and Mic ron-

i z e d T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e u n t i l sm ooth. Add r e m a in i ng p a r t B

i n g r e d i e n t s . Heat t o 80-85C. M ix u n t i l a l l t h e added s o l i d s

a r e c o m p l e t e l y d i s s o l v e d . Add p a r t B t o p a r t A w h i l e m i x i n g

w i t h good a g i t a t i o n . M ix f o r

30

minu t es . u n t i l homogeneous.

Cool t o 40C. Add p a r t C . C o n ti n ue m i x i n g a nd c o o l i n g t o 30C.

SOURCE: Penreco : Sugges ted Fo rm u la t i o n

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 413/553

Sun Care Products 391

O/W After Sun Milk

I n q r e d i e n t s :

%

A Arla mol S7 10. 00

Ar lamo l HD

8 . 0 0

B Ar la to ne 2 21 2 .00

A l p a n t h a 0 . 5 0

G l y c e r o l

2 .50

* P rese rva t ve

C

Water 76.78

Carbopol

EDT 0 . 0 7

D

*NaOH (10% s o l u t i o n )

E

Perfume 0.15

Procedure:

t h e A r l a t o n e 2121 i n t o t h e h e a te d ( C) phase w h i l e s t i r r i n g mod-

e r a t e l y . Homogenise t h i s m i x t u r e u n t i l a homogeneous d i s p e r s i o n

fo rmed. Heat (A ) t o 80C and add t o

( B + C )

w h i l e s t i r r i n g i n t e n -

s i v e l y . Homogenise t h e m i x tu re be tw een 75 and 6%. A l l ow t o coo l

down t o 50C w h i l e s t i r r i n g . Add ( D ) u n t i l pH o f 6 .5 t o 7 i s

reached. Add ( E ) a t 40C w h i l e s t i r r i n g .

* q . s .

t h es e i n g r e d i e n t s .

D is pe r se C ar bo po l i n w a te r w h i l e s t i r r i n g . H ea t t o 80C. M i x

W/O

After

Sun Cream

I n r r r ed i e n t s :

A r l a c e l 5 8 2

A r l a t o n e T

Magnes ium s teara te

Beeswax

Candel i 1 a wax

Ar lamo l HD

S u nf lo w er s eed o i l

a -T ocophe ro l ace ta te

T eg i l oxan 100

Oxynex K l i q u i d

Aeros i l R972

At las G-2330

MgS04.7H20

A l pan tha

* P r e s e r v a t i v e

Water

Perfume D i na l ya 129 .051

* q . s . t h e s e i n g r e d i e n t s .

2.50

0 .50

0 .50

1 . 5 0

0 .50

15.00

3 .0 0

1

. o o

0 .50

0 . 0 5

0.30

4 . 0 0

0.50

0 . 5 0

69 45

0 .20

Procedure:

Mix (A and 6 ) . Mix (C+D). Heat (A+B) and (C+D) separately

t o 75C. Add ( C +D ) t o ( A + B ) w h i l e s t i r r i n g i n t e n s i v e l y . Homogen-

i s e f o r 1 m in ut e. A l lo w t o c o o l t o 35C w h i l e s t i r r i n g . Add ( E )

w h i l e s t i r r i n g . Homogenise a g a i n f o r 1 m i n u t e . P ack ag e.

SOURCE:

IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : S ug ge ste d F o r m u l a t i o n s

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 414/553

392 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Phase A:

G1 y c e r i ne

Glucamate SSE-20

O/W Cream (SPF 5)

[UVA/UVB Ratio 0.9]

?$y&

5 . 0 0

1.50

G l u c a t e SS 1 . 5 0

G l yc e r y l Monos tea ra te 5 .00

M y r i t o l 3 1 8 5 .00

S p e c t r a v e i l TG (60% s o l i d s d i s p e r s i o n ) 1 0 . 0 0

Phase 0:

Veegum Regular 1 . 5 0

Kel zan 0.3 0

Me thy l Paraben 0.15

Demi n e r a l

i

ed wate r 69 .60

Phase

C:

Germal l I 1 0.25

Per fume 0.20

Manu fac tu re :

*

H ea t bo th phases t o 65-70C m i x i n g w i t h h i g h shea r m i x e r .

*

Add phase A t o phase B w i t h m i x i n g.

* S t i r

on t h e h i g h sh ea r m ix er a l l o w i n g p r o d u c t t o c o o l .

* When be lo w 60C add t h e Ge rm al l

11.

When be lo w 40C add t h e

per fume

*

A t 35C s t o p s t i r r i n g a nd a l l o w t o c o o l .

I n - V i t r o SPF Va lue : 4 -6 In -V iv o SPF Va lue :

5 .9

F or m u la t i on Number 22

W/O Sun Protection Cream (SPF 15+)

[UVA/UVB Ratio 0.75]

Phase A :

DC200/100cs

%Jyfy

2 .00

El fa co s C26 5.00

El fa co s E200 2.00

El fa co s ST9 4.00

Cocoa B u t t e r 3 . 00

Pro py l Paraben 0.08

Sp ec tr av ei 1 SO/MOTG (40% s o l d s d i sp e r s i on ) 25 .00

Phase 0:

P ropy l ene G l yco l 5 .00

Methy l Paraben 0 . 1 0

Demi n e r a l

i

ed water 53.82

Manufac tu re :

*

I n t o a s u i t a b l e v es se l w eigh o u t t h e i n g r e d i e n t s

o f

phase A

( ex ce pt t h e E l f a c o s C26). B r i n g t h e t em pe ra tu re o f t h e o i l s

s l o w l y t o 75C w i t h o c c a s i o n a l s t i r r i n g . The E l f a c o s C26

c o n s t i t u t e n t i s warmed t o 85C and ad de d s e p a r a t e l y .

* P re -m i x t h e P ropyl ene G l y co l and Me thy l P araben . Add t o t h e

w at er , s t i r r i n g w e l l a nd h ea t t o 7%.

* When bo t h phases a r e co mp le te l y d i s so lv ed and a t 75-80C, add

phase 6 t o phase A w h i l e m i x i n g w i t h a h i g h shear m i x e r .

M i x f o r f i v e m i n u t e s and t h e n commence c o o l i n g .

* Cool t o app rox i ma te l y 25C w i t h s l ow speed m i x i ng .

*

M ix b r i e f l y a t h i g h speed u n t i l smooth.

I n - V i t r o SPF Value : 17-21 In -V iv o SPF Value : 20.5

Fo rm ul at io n Number 24

SOURCE: T i o x i d e S p e c i a l t i e s L t d . : SPECTRAVEIL Custom

UV

P r o t e c t i o n

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 415/553

Sun

Care Products

393

O/W Hydroalcoholic Sunscreen

I n n r e d i e n t s : ?&v&

Ce ty l D imeth icone ( A b i l Wax 9801) 2 . 0

S t e a r y l A l co h o l 2 . 0

M i n e r a l O i l 3 . 5

C yc l ome th i cone (A b i l

6

8839) 5 . 0

Ste aro xy D imeth icone ( A b i l Wax 2434) 1 . 5

I s o p r o p y l S t e a r a t e ( T e g o s o f t

S ) 5 . 0

Oc ty l Methoxycinnamate 4 . 0

Benzophenone-3 2.0

Phase B :

P ropy l ene G1 y c o l 3 . 0

Carbomer 934 (1.5% - NaOH Ne u t r a l i z ed ) 0 . 3

Water 45.7

P r e s e r v a t i v e s Q . S .

Phase

C :

SD Al co ho l 40A 20. 0

Fragrance Q . S .

Procedure:

1 . Combine t h e i ng re d i en t s o f Phase

A .

Heat t o 80C.

2 . Combine th e i n g r ed ie n t s o f Phase B. Hea t t o 80C.

3. Mix Phases

A &

8 . Cool t o 60C w h i l e m i x i n g . M a i n t a i n a m i l k y

4. Cool t o 45C w i t h sweep mix .

5 .

Add Phase C . Rehomogenize. Cool t o 25C w i t h sweep m ix .

I n n r e d i e n t s : %w/w

Phase

A :

C e t y l D i meth i cone Copol yo1 (and) Po l yg l yc er y l -4

I s os te a r a t e (and) H exy l Lau ra te ( A b i l WE-09) 4 .0

C e ty l D i me th icone (A b i

1

Wax 9801)

2 . 0

Po ly e th yl en e Wax 1 . o

Benzophenone-3 2 . 0

O c t y l S al i c y 1a t e 3 . 0

Oc ty l Methoxyc innamate 2 . 0

Sesame

O i l

1 . o

I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e ( T e g o s o ft P) 3 . 0

C yc l ome th i cone (A b i l

B

8839)

4 . 0

O c t y l S t e a r a t e ( T e g os o ft

O S )

3 . 0

O c t y l P a l m i t a t e ( T e g o s o ft OP) 2 . 5

Phase B :

Water 71 . 4

Sodium C h l o r i d e 0 . 5

Po lyqua te rn ium-10 0 .3

Germaben I 1 0 . 3

Procedure:

1 .

Add t h e components o f Phase A . Heat w h i l e m i x i n g t o 80C t o

i n c o r p o r a t e t h e waxes. C oo l t o 5 0C.

2. Heat Phase

B

t o 50C. Add

B

t o

A

s l o w l y w i t h a l ow en er gy

m i x e r . M a i n t a i n a smooth m i l k y a p pe ar an ce a t a l l t i m e s .

3 . Cool t o 35C w i t h sweep mix e r . Add f r ag ra nc e. 4 . Homogenize

SOURCE: Gold sch mid t Chemical Co rp. : F o rm ul at io n s

BAM-1-97

Phase

A :

G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e ( a nd ) C e te th - 20 ( T e g i n a c i d H) 4 . 0

appea rance a t a l l t i m es . H omogen ize .

W/O Sunscreen

SPF

17)

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 416/553

394 Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations

O/W Moisturizing Sunscreen Cream

I n a r e d i e n t s :

A O c ty l d im e th yl PABA

M in er al o i l

S t e a r y l a l c o h ol

B r i j 721

B r i j 72

D i meth i cone

Water

B Carbomer 940

C

Sodium hydrox ide (10% W /W aqueous)

D * P r e s e r v a t i v e a nd f r a g r a n c e

q . s .

t h es e i n g r e d i e n t s

5.00

5.00

0.50

2 .00

2.00

0 .50

84.60

0.20

0 .20

Procedure:

D ispe rse Carbomer i n wa te r and hea t (B ) t o 70C. Heat

( A ) t o

72C. an d add (B) t o ( A) w i t h p r o p e l l e r a g i t a t i o n . S l ow l y ad d

(C) and i nc r eas e speed o f t h e a g i t a t i o n as needed. A dd (D) and

r e p l a c e w at er l o s t b y ev a p o r a t i o n .

W/O Sunscreen Cream

I n a r e d i e n t s :

A A r l a c e l 1 8 6

Sorbo

B Ceresin wax

Beeswax

M in er al o i l

Sunscreen agent

C

Water

D

* P r e s e r v a t i v e

* q .s . t h es e i n g r e d i e n t s .

3 .00

27.00

1 . o o

1

. o o

11

. o o

6.00

51 . O O

Procedure :

Add Sorbo t o A r l a c e l 186 s l o w l y w i t h c on t i nu o us a g i t a t i o n .

Add (B ) t o ( A ) and hea t t o 70C. Add ( C ) and m i x t o a u n i f o r m

d i s pe rs i on . H ea t (D) t o 72C. and add t o ( A , B , C ) w i t h a g i t a t i o n .

Cool and m i l l t o i mp ro ve smoothness and s h e l f l i f e .

SOURCE: IC1 S u r fa c t an t s : S uggested F o rmu l a t i ons

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 417/553

Sun

Care Products

395

1 .

2.

3.

4 .

5 .

6 .

7

8 .

9 .

10.

O/W Sunscreen Lot ion

A - C P o l ye thy l ene 61 7

A - C

Copolymer 540

E s c a l o l

507

Dow 556 F l u i d

P ropy l ene G l yco l

D i

p e l a r g o n a t e

Hydroxy01

Ethoxyo l 24

A r l a c e l 6 0

Tween 60

Propyl-P-Hydroxybenzoate

Wt.%

1 . o

1 o

5 . 0

2 .0

1 0 . 5

2 .0

1 o

1 . 3

1 . 8

0 . 1

1 1 . S o r b i t o l

5 . 0

12.Carbopol 941 0 . 5

13.Germal l 115 0 . 4

14.Methyl-P-Hydroxybenzoate 0 .2

15.

T r i

et ha no l ami ne

0 7 5

16.Water 68.45

Procedure:

D is per se Carbopol i n wa t e r . Weigh 1 -10 and hea t t o 80-9OC

w i t h s lo w a g i t a t i o n . Add r e m ai n in g i n g r e d i e n t s t o C ar bo p ol /w a te r

d i s pe rs i on , excep t t r i e t ha no l am i n e , and hea t t o 80-9OC. Add t h e

wax phase t o t h e aqueous phase and shear i n homomixer. Con t inu e

s h e a r in g w h i l e c o o l i n g t o 40C, t h e n add t r i e t h a n o l a m i n e , m i x i n g

w e l l . Coo l t o 30C, add per fume, dea era te and package .

Re f: 51 89-2-6

1 .

2 .

3 .

4 .

5

6 .

7 .

8 .

9 .

O/W Sunscreen Lotion

A -C Copolymer 580

D i s t i l l e d I s op ro p y l L an ol a te

E s c a l o l 507

Dow 556 F l u i d

P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l D i p e l a r g o n a t e

Ethoxyo l 24

A r l a c e l 6 0

Tween 60

Propyl-P-Hydroxybenzoate

Wt.36

2 . 0

3 . 0

5 . 0

2 . 0

1 0 . 0

1 o

1

o

2 .0

0 . 1

1 0. S o r b i t o 1

(70%)

5 .0

11

.C arb i t o 1 941 0 . 5

12 .T r i e t h ano l a m i ne 0 . 7 5

13.Methyl-P-Hydroxybenzoate 0 . 2

14.Water 67.45

Procedure:

s lo w a g i t a t i o n . Add r e m ai n in g i n g r e d i e n t s t o C a rb o po l/ wa te r

d i s pe rs i o n , excep t t r i e t ha no l am i ne , and hea t t o 80-9OC. Add t h e

wate r phase t o t h e aqueous phase and shear i n homomixer. Con t in ue

s h e a r in g w h i l e c o o l i n g t o 40C, t h e n add t r i e t h a n o l a m i n e , m i x i n g

w e l l . Coo l t o 30C, add per fume, de- aer a te and package .

R ef : 51 89-2-9

SOURCE: A l l i e d S i g na l

Inc.

S uggested F o rm u l a t i on s

D is per se Carbopo l i n wa t e r . Weigh 1 -9 and hea t t o 80-9OC w i t h

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 418/553

396 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

O/W Sunscreen Lotion

I n Q r e d i e n t s :

A M in er al o i l

A r l a c e l 6 0

Tween 60

B enzy l sa l i y1a t e

B en zy l c i nnamate

* P r e s e r v a t i v e

*q . s . t h e s e i g r e d i e n t s .

P rocedure :

Heat (A) t o 60C. Heat ( B )

b u t g e n t l e s t i r r i n g . Cool t o

B Water

%@

24.50

1 .50

8 . 5 0

2 .00

2 .00

61.50

t o 62C. Add ( B ) t o (A) w i t h th o ro u gh

25C w i t h g e n t l e s t i r r i n g .

O/W Sunscreen Lotion

I n q r e d i e n t s :

A M in e r a l o i l

Ce ty l a1 coho1

A r l a c e l 6 0

Tween 60

Amyl para-d imethy laminobenzoate

* P r e s e r v a t i v e

*q . s . t h e s e i g r e di e n t s .

Heat (A) t o 55C. and (B) t o 60C.

B Water

Procedure:

a t i o n .

S t i r

u n t i l c o o l .

%&y

18.80

5 . 0 0

2.50

7 . 5 0

1 . 2 0

65 .00

Add ( B) t o ( A) w i t h a g i t -

O/W Em ol l ient Sun screen L ot ion

I n a r e d i e n t s :

A O c ty l d im et hy l PABA

Ar lamo l E

S t e a r y l a l c o h o l

D imeth i cone

A r l

as ol ve 200

B r i j 72

Carbomer 934

B Water

C Sodium hydrox ide (10%

W /W

aqueous)

D * P r e s e r v a t i v e a nd f r a g r a n c e

*q .

s .

t h e s e g r e d i e n t s .

Procedure:

D isper se Carbomer i n wa te r and hea t

72C. and add ( B ) t o (A) w i t h p r o p e l l e r

and increase speed of t h e a g i t a t i o n as

r e p l a c e w at er l o s t b y e v a p o r a t i o n .

?& y

5 . 0 0

7 . 0 0

2.50

1 . o o

3.10

3 . 9 0

77.10

0.20

0 . 2 0

( 8 ) t o 70C. H e at ( A) t o

a g i t a t i o n . S l o w l y add (C)

needed. Add

( D )

and

SO UR CE : I C 1 S u r f ac ta n t s : S uggested F o rmu l a t i ons

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 419/553

Sun Care

Products

397

Phase A :

A r l a c e l 1 6 5

S t e a r y l A l c o h o l

Span 60

Tween 60

P e t r o l a t u m

DC200/350

Sweet Almond

O i

1

M i n e r a l

O i l

O/W Sunscreen Lotion

SPF

12)

5.00

0 . 5 0

0 . 5 0

0 . 9 0

3 . 0 0

1 . 0 0

5 . 0 0

8 . 0 0

Eveni ng Pr im ros e

O i

1 0.50

Phase B :

Dei o n i zed wate r

S o r b i c A c i d

G1 y c e r i ne

T i o v e i l

AQ

K e l t r o l

Phase C :

Deion i sed wate r

Bronopol

56 .76

0 . 2 0

5 . 0 0

1 2 . 5 0

0 . 1 0

1 . o o

0.04

Manufac tu re :

* Heat t h e d e i o n i s e d w a t er , s o r b i c a c i d a nd g l y c e r i n e t o 75C,

* S p r i n k l e i n t h e K e l t r o l and homogenise u n t i l t h i s i s f u l l y

s t i r r i n g o c c a s i o n a l l y u n t i l a l l t h e s o r b i c a c i d has d i s s o l v e d .

d i s pe rs ed . ( o r : p ad dl e s t i r f o r 1 h ou r t o h yd r at e t h e

Kel t r o l ) . M a i n t a i n t e m e r a t u r e a t 75C.

* Add t h e - T i o v e i l AQ and' hom ogenise b r i e f l y .

* Heat phase

A

t o 75C.

* Add

A

t o B a nd homogenise f o r a p p r o p r i a t e t i m e .

*

Add phase C a t 40C. C on t i nu e c o o l i n g w i t h s t i r r

I n -V i t r o S P F V a l ue :

1 2 - 1 5

SOURCE: T i o x i d e S p e c i a l t i e s L t d .

:

TIOVEIL Physica

t o c o o l .

Paddle s t i r

ng t o 25C.

Sunscreen

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 420/553

398

Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations

O/W

Sunscreen Lotion (SPF

15)

Phase 4:

DC 593 f l u i d 7 .00

M in e ra l o i l 6 .0 0

Crodamol ML 2 .0 0

Ce ty l a1 coho1

2 . 0 0

GMS/SE 1 .20

Eumulg in 82 0 . 40

S t e a r i c a c i d 1 - 0 0

P ropy l pa raben 0 .05

Phase B :

Dei on i sed wat e r 58 .45

G1 y c e r

i

e

1 . o o

T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e 1 - 0 0

A l o e v e r a g e l 1 O :l 0 . 5 0

Me thy l pa raben 0 .15

T i o v e i 1

AQ

18.75

Perfume 0.20

Germal l 115 0 . 30

Manufac tu re :

*

Heat phases A and B se pa ra te l y t o 70-75C.

* Add phase A t o phase and homogenize f o r a p p r o p r i a t e t i m e .

* C ool down t o 50C w i t h s l o w s t i r r i n g , t h e n a dd p e rf um e

*

C o n ti n ue c o o l i n g w i t h s t i r r i n g . Add G er ma ll a t 35C. S t op

s t i r r i n g a t 30C.

I n - V i t r o SPF Value : 17-21 In -V iv o S P F V a l ue : 17 .6

V i s c o s i t y : 60000 mPas ( B r o o k f i e ld LVT, Sp in d l e E, 3 rpm)

Formulat ion Number 9

O/W Sunscreen Lotion (SPF

10)

Phase A : %w/w

I s o p r op y l m y r i s t a t e 4 .0 0

M in er a l o i l 6 . 5 0

G rap e se ed o i l 2 . 50

S t e a r y l a l c o h o l 1 . o o

P e t r o l a t u m 2 . 0 0

T i o v e i l MOTG 5. 00

Phase B :

Deion i sed wat e r 62 .90

G r i

11o t e n LSE87K 0 .1 0

G r i l l o t e n PSE141G 6 . 0 0

G1 y c e r i ne 4 .0 0

A1 1a n t o i n 0 . 2 0

d-Panthenol

0 .8 0

Phase C :

T i o v e i l AQ 5 . 0 0

Phase D:

Manufac tu re :

*

Heat

A

and B s e p a r a t e l y t o 8 0 C . * Add

A

t o 8, s t i r r i n g i n t e n -

*

A l lo w t o c o ol f o r 25C w i t h s lo w a g i t a t i o n . Add

D .

Fo rm ul at io n Number 18

SOURCE:

T i o x id e S p e c i a l t i e s L t d , :

T I O V E I L

Phys ica l Sunscreens

P r e s e r v a t i e q s

s i v e l y . A d d C w i t h i n t e n s i v e s t i r r i n g .

*

Homogenize

I n - V i t r o SPF V a l ue : 12-15 V i sc os i t y : 144 mPas (B ro ok f i e l d )

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 421/553

Sun

Care Products 399

O/W Sunscreen Lotion (SPF 15)

Phase A :

O c t y l P a l m i t a t e

Crodamol

C A P

0c200/100cs

Oxynex 2004

White Beeswax

Phase

B :

A r l a tone 2121

K e l t r o l

RD

Veeaum U l t r a

%w/w

5 . 0 0

5 . 0 0

3 . 0 0

0 . 0 5

3 . 5 0

5 . 5 0

0 . 2 0

0 . 8 0

Sod ium Lac ta te

( 7 0 %

s o l n . ) 0 .3 0

Demi n e r a l i ed wate r 61 - 6 5

T i o v e i l AQ 15.00

P r e s e r v a t i es

q s

Manufac tu re :

*

M i x w a t e r a nd s od iu m l a c t a t e a nd h e a t t o 80C

*

M e l t A r l a t o n e

2121

and add t h i s t o t h e h o t w a te r p hase w i t h

* D i s p e r s e K e l t r o l an d Veegum i n t h e h o t w a t er p ha se

* A d d T i o v e i l AO w i t h v i g o ro u s s t i r r i n g

* Heat phase A t o 75-80C, u n t i l f u l l y m e l t e d a nd homogeneous.

* Heat phase A

t o

phase B w i t h h i g h - s h e a r m i x i n g .

* Cool w i t h m o d er at e s t i r r i n g t o 3OC.Homogenize b r i e f l y when c o l d

F orm ul a t i on Number

19

v i g o r o us s t i r r i n g

I n - V i t r o SPF Value : 15-19 V i s c o s i t y : 49680 mPas

W/O

Sunscreen Lotion (SPF 20)

Phase A :

%V&

A b i l EM90 2.00

M in er al o i l 5 . 0 0

Ar lamo l HD 5 . 0 0

C a p r y l i c - ca p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e 5 . 0 0

O c t y l P a l m i t a t e 8 . 00

Ar lamol 53 5 . 0 0

Naturechem

GMHS

0 . 8 0

Lunacera

M

1 . 2 0

Phase

B :

Demi n e r a l i ed w a te r 47 .50

Sodi um Ch lo r i d e 0 . 50

P r e s e r v a t i v e

q s

Phase C :

T i o v e i l MOTG 20. 00

Manufac tu re :

* Heat phases

A

and B se pa ra te l y t o 75C

*

Heat phase

C

t o >60C

*

S l ow l y add

B

t o A

w i t h

i n t e n s i v e s t i r r i n g

*

Add

C

w i t h i n t e n -

s i v e s t i r r i n g

*

C oo l t o 25-30'2, m a i n t a i n i n g t h e same s t i r r e r

speed

*

Homogenize

Formulat ion Number

2 0

SOURCE: T io x id e S p e c i a l t i e s L td . : T IOVEIL Ph ys ica l Sunscreens

I n - V i t r o SPF V a l ue : 20-24 V i sc o s i t y : 2000 mPas (B ro ok f i e l d )

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 422/553

400 Cosm etic and Toiletry Form ulations

O/W Vi taminized B road Spectrum Sunscreen Lo t ion

(Indicative SPF 8)*

I n a r e d i e n t s :

A) Parso l

MCX

Parso l 1789

Parso l 5000

G l y c e r y l Monomyri s t a t e

Ganex V-220

C e t y l A lc o h ol E x t r a

Dermol 185

Amphisol K

Edeta

BD

B u t y l a t e d H y d r o x y t o l u e n e

Phenoni p

Carbopol 981

1%

s o l ' n

P ropy l ene G l yco l

C)

KOH

10%

sol

n

D ) Deion ized Water

P a r s o l HS

KOH

10% s o l ' n

E )

V i t a m i n E A c e t a t e

F ) Panthenol

G) P a r f e x 49915

B ) Deion ized Water

% w / w

2.00

1 . o o

0 . 6 0

4.00

2 . 0 0

1 . 0 0

1 0 . 0 0

2 . 0 0

0 . 1 0

0 . 0 5

0 . 6 0

34.93

1 0 . 0 0

5 . 0 0

0 . 6 4

20.00

0 . 6 0

1 . 0 8

2 . 0 0

2.00

0 . 4 0 * *

Procedure :

Heat p a r t A) t o 85C w h i l e s t i r r i n g . When homogeneous, add

p a r t s

B )

an d C) p r e - h e a t e d t o 75C, w h i l e m i x i n g . Add p a r t D)

p r e -h e a te d t o 75C, w h i l e m i x i n g ( b e s u r e t h a t t h e P a r s o l HS

h a s b e e n c o m p l e t e l y d i s s o l v e d , i f t r ac es rema i n , add a sma l l

q u a n t i t y o f n e u t r a l i z i n g base u n t i l t h e s o l u t i o n i s c l e a r ) .

C oo l t o 40C, a dd p a r t s

E ) ,

F ) and G) . Compensate f o r wa te r

l o s s and c o n t i nu e s t i r r i n g w h i l e c o o l i n g t o amb ient t em pe ra tu re .

Remark:

* S P F de te rm i na t i on :

I R I

Ref . 582627. Te st method based on

FDA/OTC condi t ions

w i t h

s i x s u b j e c t s .

The f i n a l pH v a l u e s h o u l d be ar ou n d 7 . 0 t o p re ve n t r e c r y -

s t a l l i z a t i o n o f P ar so l HS

* * D e r m a t o l o g i c a l l y t e s t e d p er fu me f o r s un s cr ee n s.

SOURCE: Givaudan-Roure: Formula t ion 3 8 COS

0 8 5

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 423/553

Sun Care Products 401

O/W

Vitaminized Broad Spectrum Sunscreen Lotion

(Indicat ive SPF 25+)*

I n a r e d i e n t s :

A ) Parso l MCX

Parso l 1789

Parso l 5000

G l y c e r y l Monomyri s t a t e

Ganex V-220

C e t y l A l c o h ol E x t r a

Dermol 185

Amphisol K

Edeta BD

B u t y l a t e d H y d r o x y t o l u e n e

Phenoni p

Carbopol 981 1% s o l ' n

P r o p y l e n e

G1

y c o l

B ) Deion ized Water

C)

KOH

10% s o l ' n

D )

Deion ized Water

P a r s o l HS

KOH

1 0 % so l

I n

E )

V i t a m i n E A c e t a t e

F) Panthenol

G) P e r fe x 49915

Procedure :

H ea t D a r t

A )

t o

8 5 C

w h i le s t i r r i n a

When homoneneous,

5 . 5 0

2 . 5 0

2 . 0 0

4 .00

2 . 0 0

1 . o o

10.00

2 .00

0 . 1 0

0 . 0 5

0 . 6 0

24.61

10 .00

5 . 0 0

0.64

20 .00

2 . 0 0

3 . 6 0

2 . 0 0

2.00

0.40**

a d d p a r t s

B)

and

C )

p r e- h ea te d t o 756, w h i l e m i x i n g . Add p a r t

D )

p r e - h e at e d t o 75C, w h i l e m i x i n g ( b e su r e t h a t t h e P a r s o l

HS h a s b e e n c o m p l e t e l y d i s s o l v e d , i f t r ac es rema i n , add a

s ma l l q u a n t i t y

o f

t h e n e u t r a l i z i n g base u n t i l t h e s o l u t i o n

i s c l e a r ) . Cool t o 40C, add P a r t s

E ) ,

F ) , a n d G). Compensate

f o r w a te r l o s s and c o n t in u e s t i r r i n g w h i l e c o o l i n g t o a mb ient

t e m p e r a t u r e .

Remark

:

* S P F de te rm i na t i on : I R I Re f. 582627. Te st method based on

FDA/OTC c o n d i t i o n s w i t h f i v e s u b j e c t s .

* * D e r m a t o l o g i c a l l y t e s t e d p er fu me f o r s un s cr ee n s.

The f i n a l pH v a l u e s h o u ld b e a ro un d 7 . 0 t o p r e v e n t r e c r y s -

t a l l i z a t i o n o f P a r s o l H S .

SOURCE: Givaudan -R ou re : Form ul a 38 COS 0 8 7

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 424/553

4 2 Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations

O/W Vitaminized Broad Spectrum Sunscreen Lotion

(Indicative SPF 15)*

I n g r e d i e n t s :

A )

P a r s o l

MCX

Parso l 1789

P a r s o l 5000

G l y c e r y l M o n o m y r i s t a t e

Ganex V-220

C e t y l A l c o h o l E x t r a

Dermol 185

Amphisol K

Edeta BD

B u t y l a t e d H y d r o x y t o l u e n e

Phen oni p

Dei o n i zed Water

Carbopol 981 1%

s o l

' n

Pro pyl ene G1 y c o l

KOH 10 s o l ' n

Dei o n i zed Water

P a r s o l HS

KOH 10%

sol'n

V i t a m i n

E

A c e t a t e

Pantheno l

Parfex 49915

3.30

1

. 5 0

1 . 2 0

4 . 0 0

2.00

1 . o o

10.00

2 .00

0 . 1 0

0 . 0 5

0 . 6 0

30.86

1 0 .0 0

5 . 0 0

0 . 6 4

20 .00

1 . 2 0

2.15

2 . 0 0

2 .00

0.40**

Procedure :

H e a t p a r t A ) t o

85C

w h i l e s t i r r i n g . When homogeneous, add

p a r t s B) and C p r e -h e a te d t o 75C, w h i l e m i x i n g . A dd p a r t D)

p r e -h e a te d t o 75C, w h i l e m i x i n g ( be s u r e t h a t t h e P a r s o l HS

has been comp l e te l y d i s so l ved ,

i f

t r ac es remai n , add a sma l l

q u a n t i t y o f t h e n e u t r a l i z i n g base u n t i l t h e s o l u t i o n i s c l e a r ) .

C oo l t o 40C, add p a r t s E ) ,

F )

and G ). Compensate

for

water

loss

and c o n t i n u e s t i r r i n g w h i l e c o o l i n g t o a mb ien t t em p er at ur e .

Remark:

*SPF determinat ion: I R I Re f. 582627. Te st method based on

FDA/OTC c o n d i t i o n s w i t h s i x s u b j e c t s .

T h e f i n a l

pH

v a l u e s h o u l d be ar o un d 7. 0 t o p r e v e n t

r e c r y s t a l l i z a t i o n o f P ar so l HS.

* * D e r m a t o l o g i c a l l y t e s t e d p er fu me f o r s un s cr ee n s.

SOURCE: Givau dan- Rour e: F o r m u l a t i o n

38

COS

086

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 425/553

Sun Care Products 4 3

Solar Tanning Cream

Water Phase:

Water

Carbomer 934

O i l Phase:

Protox T-25

Rosswax 573

GMS SE

Coconut O i l #76

Jo j oba Oi 1

Rosswax 1824

Esca lo l 507

Fragrance

Germaben

I 1

T r i et ha no l ami ne

P a r t 0v Weish t

S o f t

427.9

3 .0

1 . o

4 .0

4 .0

16.0

4 .0

12 .0

25.0

q . S .

5 . 0

4 . 4

Procedure:

D i s p e rs e t h e Carbomer 934 i n t h e w a t e r . I n a se co nd v es s e l

h e a t t h e O i l Phase i n c l u d i n g t h e E s c a l o l 5 07 u n t i l c o m p l e t el y

c le a r . When b o th phases a re read y add t h e O i l Phase t o t h e

W ater P hase, add t h e p r es e r va t i v e , f r ag ran ce and add t h e

T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e u nd er h i g h a g i t a t i o n . When f u l l y m i xe d you

may package.

Solar Tanning Cream

Water Phase:

Water

Carbomer 934

O i l

Phase:

Protox T-25

Rosswax 573

GMS SE

Coconut O i l #76

Jo j oba

O i l

Rosswax 1824

Esca lo l 507

Fragrance

Germaben

I 1

T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e

P a r t s b y W e ia h t

H a rd

410.0

3.0

1

. o

4.0

4 . 0

16 .0

4 .0

12 .0

25.0

q . s .

4.8

4 . 4

Procedure:

D i s p e r se t h e Carbomer 9 34 i n t h e w a t e r . I n a sec on d v es s e l

h ea t t h e O i l Phase i n c l u d i n g t h e E s c a l o l 507 u n t i l c o m p l e te l y

c l e a r . When bo t h phases a r e ready add t h e O i l Phase t o t h e

W ate r Phase, add t h e p res e r va t i v e , F rag rance and add t h e

T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e u n de r h i g h a g i t a t i o n . When f u l l y m i x ed y ou may

package.

SOURCE:

F rank

0. Ross C o , , Inc . :

S ugges ted F o rmu l a t i ons

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 426/553

4 4 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Solar Tanning Cream

High Protect ion

P a r t ( A ) :

Water

Carbomer 934

P a r t ( B ) :

P r o t o x T 25

Rosswax 573

Rosswax 1824

Ross Jojoba

O i

1

Coconut

O i l

#76

Esca lo l 507

Esca lo l 567

P a r t ( C ) :

Germaben

I 1

P a r t

0):

Fragrance

P a r t

( E ) :

T r i et ha no l ami ne

GMS-SE

?i

7 9 . 9

0 . 6

0 . 2

0 . 8

2 . 0

0 . 8

0 . 8

3 . 0

7 .0

3 . 0

1 . o

4 , s .

0 . 9

Procedure:

omer 934 under a g i t a t i o n . H ea t P a r t

( B )

i n a s team j a c k e t e d

k e t t l e u nt 1 c l e a r u nd er a g i t a t i o n . When f u l l y m ix ed add P a r t

( 8 )

t o Par ( A ) u nd er a g i t a t i o n . T hen add P a r t

( C )

and mix

t h o r o u g h l y N e xt a dd P a r t ( D ) and f i n a l l y add P a r t (E ) w i t h

a g i t a t i o n . C oo l t o 1 20F an d p ac ka ge .

H eat t h e wa t e r i n a s te am j a c k e t e d k e t t l e an d a dd t h e Ca rb -

Tanning Jelly

P e tr o l a tu m USP

M i n e r a l

O i l

#7

Henkel C u t i na-LM

Ross Jo j oba

O i 1

E sca l o l 507

Propy l Paraben

Fragrance

3

49.0

20.0

23 .9

2 .0

5.0

0 . 1

q . s .

Procedure :

Load i n g r e d i e n t s i n s team j a c k e te d k e t t l e and m e l t t o a

l i q u i d s t a t e un de r a g i t a t i o n . When t h o r o u g h l y m ixed, c oo l t o

130F, f r ag ra nc e and package.

SOURCE:

Frank

8 .

R o s s

Co.,

I n c . : S ug ge st ed F o r m u l a t i o n s

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 427/553

Sun Care Products 405

Solar Tanning Cream

Super Protection

P a r t ( A ) :

Water

Carbomer 934

P a r t

(B)

:

P ro tox T 25

Rosswax 573

Rosswax 1824

Ross Jo j oba

O i

1

Coconut O i l #76

Esca lo l 507

Esca lo l 567

Esca lo l 557

P a r t

(C):

Germaben

I 1

P a r t

( D ) :

Fragrance

P a r t

(E):

T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e

GMS-SE

6 9 . 1

0 . 6

0 . 2

0 . 8

2 . 0

1 . o

0 . 8

3 . 2

8 . 0

4 . 5

7 . 5

1

.o

q . s .

0.9

Procedure:

Carbomer 934 under a g i t a t i o n . H ea t P a r t ( B ) i n a steam j a c k e t e d

k e t t l e u n t i l c l e a r u nd er a g i t a t i o n . When f u l l y mixed add P ar t

( B )

t o P a r t ( A) u nd er a g i t a t i o n . T hen add P a r t

( C )

and mix

t h o r o u g h l y . N e xt a dd P a r t

(D)

and f i n a l l y add Pa r t ( E) w i t h

a g i t a t i o n . Co ol t o 120F and pa ck ag e.

H ea t t h e waxes i n a steam j a c k e t e d k e t t l e and add t h e

Jojoba After Sun Lotion

P a r t A :

M i n e r a l

O i l

60/70

Modul an

Rosswax 63-0412

Pro py l ene

G1

y c o l

Ross Jojoba O i 1

P a r t

8 :

Water

A l o e V era L i q u i d

T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e

Fragrance

Germaben I 1

6

8 . 5

5 . 0

7 . 6

2 . 3

1 . 7

6 9 . 7

3.3

1 . 2

q . s .

1 . o

Procedure :

a g i t a t i o n . When t e m pe r at u re i s r ea ch ed , m ix P a r t ( A ) t o P ar t ( B )

and c o o l . Package i n c o n t a i n e r s a t b e lo w 1 20F .

SOURCE: Frank 8 . Ross Co., I n c . : S ug ge st ed F o r m u l a t i o n s

M e l t P a r t ( A ) and Par t ( B ) i n s e p a ra t e v e s s e l s t o 170F u nd er

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 428/553

4 6 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Solar Tanning Lotion-A

P a r t

I :

Water

Carbomer 934

P a r t

11:

Rosswax 573

GMS SE

Jo j oba

O i l

Esca lo l 507

P a r t 1 1 1 :

Fragrance

P a r t I V :

Gerrnaben

I 1

P a r t V:

T r i et ha no l ami ne

Solar Tanning Lotion-B

P a r t I :

Water

Carborner 934

P a r t 1 1 :

Rosswax 573

GMS SE

Jo j oba

O i l

Esca lo l 507

P a r t

1 1 1 :

Fragrance

P a r t I V :

Germaben I 1

P a r t V :

T r i et ha no l ami ne

P a r ts bv Wei qh t

568 .0

2 . 0

4.0

4 . 0

4 . 0

13 .0

4 . s .

6 . 0

4 .0

Pa r t s by Wei qh t

568 .0

2 . 0

4 . 0

4 . 0

4 . 0

1 9 . 0

q . s .

6 . 0

4 .0

Procedure:

s ep a ra te steam j a c k e t e d k e t t l e m e l t P a r t I 1 u n t i l c l e a r .

A s

soon

a s e v e r y t h i n g

i s

m e l t e d ad d P a r t

I 1

t o P ar t

I

w i t h a g i t a t i o n .

Then add Par t I 1 1 a n d P a r t I V w i t h i n cr e as e d a g i t a t i o n ; t h e n add

T r i h a n o l ami ne. Cool t o 130F and package.

SOURCE: Frank 8 . Ross Co., I n c . : SUQQeSted Fo rm ula t io ns

H ea t t h e w a te r w i t h a g i t a t i o n a nd add t h e Carborner 9 34 . I n a

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 429/553

Sun Care Products 4 7

P a r t

I

Water

Carbomer 934

P a r t 1 1 :

Rosswax 573

GMS S E

Jo j oba

O i l

Esca lo l 507

P a r t 1 1 1 :

Fragrance

P a r t

I V :

Germaben I 1

P a r t V :

T r i

et ha no l ami ne

P a r t I :

Water

Carbomer 934

P a r t 1 1 :

Rosswax 573

GMS SE

Jo j oba O i l

Esca lo l 507

P a r t 1 1 1 :

Fragrance

P a r t I V :

Germaben I 1

P a r t

V :

T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e

Solar Tanning Lotion-C

P a r t s by Wei ah t

568 .0

2 .0

4 . 0

4 .0

4 . 0

25 .0

q . s .

6.0

4.0

Solar Tanning Lotion-D

568.0

2.0

4.0

4 .0

4 . 0

32 .0

q . s .

6 .0

4 . 0

Procedure :

s ep a ra te steam j a c k e t e d k e t t l e m e l t P a r t I 1 u n t i l c l e a r . A s

soon as e v e r y t h i n g i s m e lt e d add P a r t

I 1

t o P a r t

I

w i t h a g i t -

a t i o n . Then add P a r t I 1 1 and P a r t IV w i t h i nc re a se d a g i t a t i o n ;

t h e n add T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e . C oo l t o

130F

and package.

SOURCE: Frank 8 . R o s s C o . , I n c . : S ug ge st ed F o r m u l a t i o n s

Heat the w a t er w i t h a g i t a t i o n a nd ad d t h e Carbomer 9 34 . I n a

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 430/553

4 8

Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations

Solar Tanning Lotion

High Protection

Water

Carbomer 934

Rosswax 573

Gms S E

Jo j oba O i l

Esca lo l 507

Pa r t s by Wei qh t

517.0

2 . 0

3 . 6

3 . 6

42 .0

1 8 . 0

Germaben I 1 6 . 0

F ragrance

q . s .

T r i eth ano l ami ne 3 . 6

Procedure:

s ep a ra te steam ja c k e t e d k e t t l e m e l t t h e O i l Phase t i l l c l e a r

w i t h a g i t a t i o n . Now add t h e

O i l

Phase t o t h e Water Phase wi t h

a g i t a t i o n , add t h e Germaben

1 1 ,

f r a g r a nc e and f i n a l l y a dd t h e

T r i e t ha n o l a m in e w i t h h i g h a g i t a t i o n . N ex t c oo l t o 130F and

package .

H ea t t h e wa te r w i t h a g i t a t i o n and add t h e Carbomer 934. I n a

Solar Tanning Lotion

Supe r P rotection

Water

Carbomer 934

Rosswax 2540

W h i t e Jo j oba O i 1

E s c a l o l 507

Esca lo l 567

Esca lo l 557

Germaben I 1

Fragrance

T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e

GMS-SE

P ar t s by W e i gh t

381 .5

1 . 5

3 . 0

3 . 0

3 . 0

40 .0

22 .5

3 7 . 5

5 . 0

q . s

3 . 6

Procedure :

Heat t h e w at er i n a steam j a c k e te d k e t t l e w i t h a g i t a t i o n and

add t h e Carbomer 9 34 . I n a s e p a r a t e s te am j a c k e t e d k e t t l e m e l t

t h e O i l Phase u n t i l c l e a r w i t h a g i t a t i o n . Now add t h e O i l Phase

t o t h e W ate r P hase w i t h a g i t a t i o n , t h e n t h e Germaben 1 1 , t h e n

t h e F ra gr an ce and f i n a l l y add t h e T r i e t h a no l am i ne w i t h h i g h a g i t -

a t i o n . N e xt c o o l t o 130F and pa c ka g e.

SOURCE:

Frank 8 , R o s s C o . , I n c .

:

Sugges ted Formu la t i ons

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 431/553

Sun Care Products 409

Cocoanut O i l #76

Dow

Corn ing #344

I s o p r op y l M y r i s t a t e

M i n e r a l

O i l

# 7

Ac etu l an

Glucam P-20

Jo j oba

O i l

E s c a l o l

5 0 7

Fragrance

Cocoanut

O i l

#76

Dow Corn ing #344

I s o p r o py l M y r i s t a t e

M i n e r a l

O i l

#7

A ce tu l an

Glucam P-20

Jo j oba O i l

Esca lo l 507

Fragrance

Cocoanut O i l #76

D o w Corning #344

I s o p r o py l M y r i s t a t e

M i n e r a l O i l #7

Ac et u l an

Glucam P-20

Jo j oba O i l

Esca lo l 507

Fragrance

Cocoanut O i l #76

D ow Corning #344

I s o p r op y l M y r i s t a t e

M i n e r a l O i l #7

A ce tu l an

Glucam P-20

Jo j oba O i l

Esca lo l 507

Fragrance

Solar Tanning Oil-A

Solar Tanning Oil-B

Solar Tanning Oil-C

Solar Tanning Oil-D

 

15.0

16 .0

1 3 . 0

42 .0

8 . 0

2 .0

2 .0

2 . 0

Q . S .

14 .0

16 .0

13.0

42.0

8 . 0

2 .0

2 . 0

3.0

9 . s .

13.0

16 .0

13 .0

42.0

8 . 0

2 .0

2 . 0

4 . 0

q . s

12.0

16.0

13.0

42.0

8 . 0

2 .0

2 . 0

5 . 0

Q . S .

Procedure:

r u n t h r u a f i l t e r and package.

SOURCE:

Frank

B . R o s s C o . ,

I n c . : S ug oe ste d F o r m u l a t i o n s

M ix a l l o f t h e above i n g r e d i e n t s i n a s t a i n l e s s s t e e l v e s se l ,

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 432/553

410 Cosmetic and

Toiletry

Formulations

Solar Tanning Stick

White Color

Rosswax

26-1 152

Rosswax

1641

Rosswax

1824

M i n e r a l

O i l 7

Dow S i l i c o n e

344

I s o p r op y l M yr i s t a t e

Coconut

O i l 76

A ce tu l an

Glucam P-20

Jo j oba

O i l

E s c a l o l 507

Fragrance

P r e s e r v a t i v e

%

15.0

15.0

20.0

17.5

8.0

6 . 5

5.0

4.0

2.0

2.0

5.0

q . s .

q . s .

Procedure :

a g i t a t i o n u n t i l m el te d. Cool t o j u s t b e f o r e c lo ud y, add

p r e s e r v a t i v e s . M o l d i n c o n t a i n e r s . ( N o te : C ap pin g may b e

necessa ry ) .

Load t h e waxes a nd t h e o i l s i n a steam j a c k e t e d k e t t l e , u nd er

Solar Tanning Stick

Tan Color

Rosswax 26-1152

Rosswax

1824

M i n e r a l O i l 7

Dow S i l i c o n e 344

I s o p r op y l M y r i s t a t e

Coconut O i l 76

Ace tu 1an

Glucam P-20

Jo j oba

O i l

E s c a l o l

507

Fragrance

P r e s e r v a t i v e

30.0

20.0

17.5

8.0

6.5

5.0

4.0

2.0

2.0

5.0

q . s .

q . s .

Procedure :

Heat t h e waxes and t h e o i l i n a steam j a c k e te d k e t t l e t o

175F

un de r a g i t a t i o n . When m ixed f u l l y , c o o l t o j u s t b e f o r e

c l o u d y, a nd add F r a gr a nc e a nd P r e s e r v a t i v e . M o ld i n c o n t a i n e r s .

(No te: Capping may be ne ce ss ar y) .

SOURCE: Frank B. Ross C o . , Inc.: S ugges ted F o rmu l a t i ons

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 433/553

Sun

Care

Products 411

Sun Block Soft Cream O/W)

Tested SPF 26

I n q r e d i e n t s :

A A r l a c e l 1 6 5

Eumulg in

B 2

L a n e t t e

0

M y r i t o l 3 1 8

C e t i o l OE

A b i l 100

Ben

Neo

Neo

Neo

Neo

c u t

B

Dem

Vee

one Gel M I 0

Hel iopan, Type OS

Hel iopan , Type

AV

Hel iopan, Type

E

1000

H e l io pan , Type MBC

na CBS

ne ra l ed w a te r

% ( w / w )

3 .00

1

. o o

2 . 0 0

4 . 0 0

3 . 00

1 . o o

3.00

3.00

5 .00

5.00

1 . 5 0

2 . 0 0

31 . 70

um u l t r a 1 . o o

G l y c e r i n 86% 3 . 0 0

Phenoni p 0.5 0

Neo Hel iop an, Type Hydro; used as a 15% s o l u t i o n 20.0 0

Z i n c O x i d e n e u t r a l

H&R

10.00

n e u t r a l i ed w i t h sod i um hyd rox i de ( a c t i v e : 3.00%)

C Perfume o i l

n . 3 0

M a n u f a c t u r i n g P ro c es s:

P a r t A: He at up t o 75C w i t h th o r o u g h a g i t a t i o n .

P a r t B :

H ea t t h e w a te r t o 9OC. D i spe rse t h e Veegurn i n t h e w a ter du r i ng

h i g h speed a g i t a t i o n . Then add t h e o t h e r i n g r e d i e n t s a nd d i s p e r s e

t h e Z i n c O xi de n e u t r a l

H&R

i n t h e s o l u t i o n . Pu t P a r t B t o P ar t

A

w h i l e s t i r r i n g .

P a r t C :

emu1 s i on .

A t 30C add t h e p e rf um e o i l t o P a r t A / B and homogenize t h e

The p H- va lu e o f t h e f i n i s h e d e m u ls i on s h o u l d b e a p p ro x . 7 . 5

and has t o be checked .

SOURCE: Haarman 81 Reimer : Formula tSon K 18/2-21302/E

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 434/553

412

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Sun Filter Foam

A .

M i g l y o l 8 4 0

M i g l y o l 8 1 2

S o f t i s a n 6 4 9

S o f t i g e n 7 6 7

S o f t i g e n 7 0 1

C e t y l a1 coho1

S t e a r i c a c i d

T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e

Neo Hel iopan

E

1000

9. Perfume

Water

1 0 . 0

5 . 0

1 . o

1 . 5

0 . 5

1 . o

4 . 0

2 . 0

3 .0

qs

t o 1 00 .0

P r e p a r a t i o n

:

e m u l s i f i e d i n and p erfum e i s i n c o r p o r a t e d a t 30C.

A l l

components under A . a r e h e at ed t o 7 0-75C. W ate r i s t h e n

A eroso l f i 11

i

g:

90% A c t i v e i n g r e d i e n t

10% Dr i v os o l 27

After Sun Stick

A .

B .

S o f t i g e n 7 6 7

Sodi um s t e a r a t e

G l y c e r o l

Sugar

D-Panthenol , 50%

A1 1a n t o i n

Water

Perfume

Ethanol 96%

P r e s e r v a t i v e

40 .0

8 . 0

1 0 . 0

8 . 0

6 . 0

0 .2

2 4 . 4

0 .1

3 .3

u s

P r e p a r a t i o n

:

60C, t h e mix i s s t i r r e d ,

8 .

be i ng added a t app rox . 4 0 C , and

when co ld i t i s c a s t i n t o mo uld s.

SOURCE: H u l s

A m e r i c a

I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n s

for

C o s m e t i c s : Formulas

The i n g r e d i e n t s o f A . a r e m e l t e d and d i s s o l v e d a t a pp ro x.

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 435/553

Sun Care Products

413

Sun Protection Lotion

T h i s medium v i s c o s i t y l o t i o n u t i l i z e s a s y n e r g i s t i c Veegum/

R ho di ge l b l e n d t o h e l p s t a b i l i z e t h e e mu ls io n and m od i f y t h e

v i s c o s i t y . I n a d d i t i o n , t h i s f or mu la i nc o rp o ra te s

A-C

617G

p o l y e th y l e n e t o p r o v i d e a l u x u r i o u s a f t e r f e e l and im pro ve t h e

w ate r r e s i s t a n c e o f t h e sun p r o t e c t i o n

f i l m .

T h is p ro du ct i s

des i gned t o have an SPF (Sun P ro te c t i o n F a c to r ) o f abou t 15 .

I n n r e d i e n t

:

Veegum

Rhodi ge l

G l y c e r i n

Deion ized Water

A-C 61 7G Po ly et hy le ne

G l y c e r y l M o n o s t e a r a t e , SE ( 2 )

D i o c t y l M a la te ( 3 )

C e t y l A l c o h o l

M i n e r a l O i l

S tea re th -2 ( 4 )

S t e a r e t h - 2 0 ( 5 )

Benzophenone-3 (6)

O c t y l D i m e t h y l

PABA

( 7 )

P r e s e r v a t i v e , F r a g r a n c e

( 2 ) Kessco G l yc er o l Monos teara te

S.E.

(3 ) Ceraphy l

45

( 4 ) B r i j 72

( 5 ) B r i j 78

(6 ) E sca l o l 567

( 7 ) E s c a l o l 50 7

% bv

W t .

1

. o o

0.20

5 .50

68 .80

2.00

3

. O Q

2 . 0 0

0.50

4.00

0 . 3 0

2.70

3 .00

7 . 00

q . s .

P r e p a r a t i o n :

Dry b le n d Veegum and Rh od ige l . Add Veegum/Rhodigel b l e nd t o

wate r p rehe a ted t o 85-9OC. Hydra te us in g maximum a v a i l a b l e shear

u n t i l smooth, u n i f o r m and f r e e o f u n d is p er se d p a r t i c l e s . Add

g l y c e r i n an d m a i n t a i n t e m p e ra t u r e a t 85-9OC. I n a se p a r a t e co n -

t a i n e r , add a l l B i n g r e d i e n t s and h e a t t o 85-9OC u n t i l a l l com-

ponents a re i n a l i q u i d s t a t e .

S t i r

g e n t l y as n e c es s ar y . S l o w l y

add B t o A and homogen ize f o r 5 m i nu tes . C oo l emu ls i on q u i c k l y t o

room t em p er at ur e w i t h g e n t l e s t i r r i n g . Add C and m ix u n t i l

u n i f o r m .

Cons is tency :

tem per atu re : 1500-1900 cps.

Su gg este d P ac ka gi ng : P l a s t i c b o t t l e s o r t u b e s .

Comments :

T h i s p r o t o t y p e f o r m u la i s d es ig ne d t o s e rv e as

a

g uid e f o r

t h e d ev elo pm en t o f new p r o d u c t s o r im pr ov em en t o f e x i s t i n g o ne s.

SOURCE: R .T , V a n d e r b i l t Co., I n c . : F or m ul a

No. 4 4 4

F l o w a b le L i q u i d ; V i s c o s i t y m easu re d a f t e r 30 da ys a t room

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 436/553

414

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Sun Protection Lotion

T h i s medium v i s c o s i t y l o t i o n u t i l i z e s a s y n e r g i s t i c Veegum/

R ho dig el b l en d t o h e l p s t a b i l i z e t h e e m ul si on and m od if y t h e

v i s c o s i t y .

I t

i s d e si g ne d t o h a ve an SPF (Sun P r o t e c t i o n F a c t o r )

o f about 15.

I n q r e d i e n t :

Veegum

Rhodi ge l

G l y c e r i n

Deion ized Water

G l y c e r y l M o n o s t e a r a t e ,

SE

( 2 )

D i o c t y l M a l at e ( 3 )

C e t y l A l c o h o l

M i n e r a l

O i l

S t e a r e t h - 2 ( 4 )

S t e a r e t h - 2 0 ( 5 )

Benzophenone-3 ( 6 )

Oc ty l D i me thy l

PABA

( 7 )

P r e s e r v a t i v e , F r a g r a n c e

(2 ) K essco G l yc e r o l Monos tea rate S . E .

(3) Ceraphy l 45

( 4 )

B r i j

72

( 5) B r i j 78

( 6 )

Esca lo l 567

( 7 ) E s c a l o l 507

% bv

W t .

1 . o o

0 .20

5 .50

70.80

3 .00

2.00

0 .50

4.00

0 .30

2 .70

3 .00

7 .00

Q S

P r e p a r a t i o n

:

Dry b le n d Veegum and Rh od ig el . Add Veegum/Rhodigel b l e nd t o

w a t e r p r e h e a t ed t o 75 t o 85C. H y d r a t e u s i n g maximum a v a i l a b l e

s he ar u n t i l smooth, u n i f o r m and f r e e o f u n d is pe r se d p a r t i c l e s .

Add g l y c e r i n a nd m a i n t a i n t e m p e r a tu r e a t 75 t o 85C. I n a sep -

a r a t e c o n t a in e r , add a l l B i n g r e d i e n t s and h e a t t o 75 t o 85C

u n t i l a l l components a r e i n a l i q u i d s t a t e . S t i r g e n t l y as

necessary . S lo w ly add

B

t o A and homogenize f o r 5 m inu tes .

Cool e m ul si on t o r oom t em p er at ur e w i t h g e n t l e s t i r r i n g . Add

C

and m ix u n t i l u n i f o rm .

C ons i s t ency : F l ow ab le 1 q u i d ; V i s c o s i t y measured a f t e r 30 days

a t room temp era tu r e : 750 t o 1000 cps

Comments:

T h i s p r o t o t y p e f or m ul a i s d es ig ne d t o s e r ve as a g ui de f o r

the deve lopment

o f

new p r o d u c t s o r i mp ro ve me nt o f e x i s t i n g o ne s.

SOURCE: R U T . V a n d e r b i l t Co., I n c . : F o r m u l a No. 446

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 437/553

Sun Care Products 415

Sunscreen

with

Amihope

An e l eg an t sunsc reen o f abou t SPF-15 u s i ng mic ro n i zed T i a n i urn

D i o x i d e .

A m i

hope LL p rov ides

i

mproved spr ead abi 1

i

y and an

e xc e l 1 e n t a f t e r f e e l

Ing red ien t /T rade Name: % by Weight

P a r t

A :

Deion ized Water 64 .30

S y n t h e t i c H e c t o r i t e 0 .8 0

D i

so d i um EDTA 0.10

G1 y c e r i

6 . 0 0

P a r t B : C12-15 A l k y l Benzoate 15.00

T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e

6 . 5 0

C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l ( an d ) C e t e ar e t h - 2 0 5 . 0 0

PEG-80 S o r b i t a n La ur at e 1

. o o

P a r t

C :

La ur oy l Lys ine/Amihope LL 1 . o o

B u t y l paraben 0.10

P a r t D : I s o p r o p y l p a r a b e n ( an d ) I s o b u t y l p a r a b e n ( an d )

DMDM H ydan to i n (and) I odop ropy ny l B u t y l ca rbama te 0 .20

8OC. Add re ma in ing p a r t

A

i n g r e d i e n t s . M ix u n t i l u n i f o rm . I n a

sep ara te c o n ta i n e r , homogeni ze t h e C12-15 A1 k y l Benzoate and

T i t a n i um D i ox id e u n t i 1 smooth. Add remai n i ng p a r t B i g r ed i e n t s .

H ea t t o 8OC. Add p a r t B t o p a r t A w i t h m i x i n g . M i x a t 80C f o r

30 m i nu tes u n t i l smooth and un i f o rm . C oo l t o 70C. Add p a r t D .

M i x w e l l . (Homogenize t o e ns ur e c o m pl e te d i s p e r s i o n . ) Cool t o

40C. Add p a r t

E .

C o n t i n ue m i x i n g and c o o l i n g t o 35C.

D is p er se t h e S y n t h e t i c H e c t o r i t e i n d e i o n iz e d w a te r . Heat t o

Appearance: O f f -w h i te , smooth, v i sc ou s c ream pH: 7 .20- 7 .80

V i s c o s i t y :

30,000-36,000

c ps ( B r o o k f i e l d 6

@ l O r p m @

25C)

W/O SPF20 Sunscreen with Elder

I na red ien ts /T rade Name:

%

by Weight

P a r t A :

S t e a r i c A c i d T r i p l

e

Pressed 4.00

C e t y l A1 coho1 1 . o o

DEA-Cetyl Phosphate/Amph isol 2. 00

Dimethicone(and)Trimethylsiloxysilicate/Dow Cor n in g 593 5 .00

Oc ty l Methoxyc innamate /Parso l MCX 7.50

Benzophenone-3/Uvinul M-40 6 . 0 0

O c t y l S a l i c y l a t e / U v i n u l 0-18 5 . 0 0

Oct y ld ode cy l Neopentanoa te /E le fac 1 -205 5 . 0 0

Methy lparaben (and) Bu t y lp ara ben (and) E thy lpara ben

D i

( c h o l e s t e r y l , b eh e n yl , o c t y l d o d e c y l ) N- La ur oy l- L-

G lu ta mic Ac id es te r / E ldew CL-301 5 .00

Par t B :

Dei on i zed Water 57.75

Sodium Carbomer/PNC 400 0. 25

P a r t C :

D i a z o l i d i n y l U r e a / G e r m a l l

I 1

0.30

Dei on i zed Water 1 . o o

Combine p a r t

A

and h e a t t o 75 d eg re es C e n t i g r a d e w i t h m i x i n g .

H ea t d e i o n i z e d w a te r o f p a r t B t o 75 d e g re e s C . D i spe rse PNC 400

i n t o t h e w ate r w i t h h i g h shear m i x in g u n t i l u n i f o rm g el i s

fo rmed. Add p a r t

A

t o p a r t

0

w i t h m i x in g . H ol d a t

75

degrees

f o r 15 m i nu tes . C oo l t o 40 deg rees

C

and add p remixed par t

C

w i t h c o n t i n u e d m i x i n g . Cool t o 30 de gr ee s C .

SOURCE: A j i n o m o t o US A, Inc.: Suggested Formulations

( and ) P ropy l pa raben /N i pas ta t 0 . 2 0

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 438/553

416 Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations

Sunscreen Balm, Cold Processing)

SPF 8

(DIN 67501)*

I n q r e d i e n t s :

Demi n e r a l

i

ed wate r

%(w/w)

72,900

E t h y l a l c o h o l ( 96 v o l . % ) d e na tu r ed 8; 00

T r i l o n

B

l i q u i d

D-Panthenol

Germal l 115

Phenoni p

Carbopol 940

Sodium hy dr ox id e (10% aq

1 , 2 - P r o p y l e n e g l y c o l

Cremogen Aloe Vera

Neo Hel iopan, Type AV

B ay s i lo n e F l u i d

PK

20

B i s a b o l o l

Perfume

O i l

*Sun P r o t e c t i o n F a c t o r :

s o l u t i on)

0,100

0,500

0,200

0 , 3 0 0

0,500

2,200

3,000

2,000

6,500

3 , 0 0 0

0,100

0,200

Te ste d mean SPF 8. 2 ac co rd in g t o t h e German D I N 67501 method.

Manu fac tu r i ng P rocess :

P a r t

A :

a l co ho l and w a te r . Then s l ow l y add under s t i r r i n g C a rbopo l 940

and c o n t i n u e u n t i l c o m pl e te l y d i s p er s ed .

P a r t B :

r a l i z a t i o n .

A

t r an s pa r e nt h i g h v i s c i d g e l

w i l l

be formed.

P a r t

C :

gen A l oe V er a i n t o t h e g e l p a r t A/B.

P a r t

D :

i n t o t h e g e l p a r t A / B / C .

D is so lv e T r i l o n

B ,

P a nt he n ol a nd Ge r ma ll 115 i n t h e m i x t u r e o f

Add s l o w l y t h e s odium h y d ro x id e s o l u t i o n t o p a r t A f o r n eu t-

S u c c e s si v e ly add w i t h s t i r r i n g p r o p y l e n e g l y c o l and Cremo-

B le nd t h e i n g r e d i e n t s and add t h e m i x tu r e w i t h s t i r r i n g

A f t e r c o m p l e t e m i x i n g i t i s n ec essa ry t o p ass t h e d i s p e r s i o n

t h ro u g h a ho mo ge nizer ( c o l l l o i d m i l l ) .

The Sunscreen Balm co n ta in s no emu1 s i f i e r .

SOURCE: Haarman & R e i mer : F o rmu l a t i on

K

18/5-51132

A / €

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 439/553

Sun

Care

Products

41

7

Sunscreen Cream

I l l u s t r a t e s t h e u s e o f Veegum P r o as a s u sp e nd in g a ge n t a nd

v i s c o s i t y m o d i f i e r . Veegum Pro e f f e c t i v e l y t h i c k e n s and s t a b i l -

i z e s t h e e m ul si on even a t e l e v a t e d t em p e ra t u re s . T h i s l o t i o n ha s

an es t i ma ted SPF o f 12 and has a l i g h t f e e l w i t h qu i ck , g rease -

l e ss ru b - i n . Benzophenone-3 i s a UV-A a bs or be r f o r p r o t e c t i o n

a g a i n s t t a n n i ng r a d i a t i o n . O c t y l M et ho xy ci nnamate i s a U V - B

ab sorb er f o r p r o t e c t i o n a ga i n s t b u r n i ng r a d i a t i on.

I n q r e d i e n t :

A Veegum Pro

Water

P r o p y l e n e g l y c o l

T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e

B Benzophenone-3 (1)

C12-15 A l co h ol s Benzoate ( 2 )

Octy l Methoxyc innamate (3 )

M i n e r a l O i l ( an d ) L a n o l i n A l c o h o l ( 4 )

S t e a r i c a c i d X X X

C18-36 Ac id (5)

G l y c o l S t e a r a t e S E ( 6 )

C e t y l a l c o h o l

v W t .

1 . 5

67.7

3 . 0

0 . 6

5 . 0

7 . 5

7 .5

4 . 0

2 . 0

0 . 2

0 . 5

0 . 5

C

P r es e r va t i v e , Dye, F rag rance

q . s .

( 1 ) U v i n u l M - 4 0

( 2 ) F i n s o l v

TN

( 3 ) P a r s o l

MCX

4 ) R i t a c h o l

( 5 )

Synchrowax AW1

-C

( 6 ) C e rasyn t MN

Procedure:

Heat t h e wat er t o 75 t o 8OC, th en s lo w ly add th e Veegum Pro

w h i l e a g i t a t i n g a t maximum a v a i l a b l e sh e a r . M i x u n t i l smooth. Add

rernai n i ng i g r e d i e n t s i o r d e r shown w i t h c a r e f u l m i x i ng u n t i 1

smooth, m a i n t a i n a t 75 t o 8OC . Heat B t o 7 5 t o

8OC.

Add t o A

and m i x u n t i l c o o l . Add

C .

Consistency: Cream

Sugges ted Packag ing : Pump b o t t l e o r t u b e

Comments

:

development o f new pr od uc ts o r improvement

o f

e x i s t i n g ones.

S O U R C E : R . T . V a n d e r b i l t Co., I n c . : F o r m ul a t i o n N o .

421

T h i s p r o t o t y p e f o rm u l a i s de si gn ed t o s e rv e as a g ui d e f o r t h e

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 440/553

418

Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations

Sunscreen Cream

1 .

2

3 .

4 .

5 .

6 .

7 .

8 .

9 .

A - C

P o l ye t hy l e ne 61 7

Beeswax

Amerchol L-101

M i n e r a l O i l , 70 S . S .

Dow F l u i d 200, 350 cs .

2 - E t h y l H e x yl S t e a r a t e

T r i g l y c e r o l

D i

i o s t e a r a t e

Esca lo l 507

P r o p y l P H y d r o x y b e n z o a t e

10 . S o rb i t o 1 (70%)

11.Sodium Bor at e , Anhydrous

1 2 . M e t h y l - P - H y d r o x y b e n z o a t e

13.Germal l 115

14.Water

W L

3 . 0

2.0

5 . 0

6 . 2

1 . o

7 . 0

5 . 5

5 . 0

0 .1

5 . 0

0 . 3

0 . 2

0 . 3

59 .4

Procedure :

a c l o u d p o i n t o f a p p r o x i m a t el y 80C. Above t h e c l o u d p o i n t a l l

waxes w i l l e v e n t ua l l y d i s s o l v e i n t h e b le nd . I f a h i g h e r

s o l v a t i n g t e m pe r at u re i s used, s o l v a t i o n can be much f a s t e r .

H o l d t h e wax b l en d a t 85C. H ea t 10-14 t o 85-9OC and s t i r g e n t l y

u n t i l a l l has d i s s o l v e d . H ol d a t 85C.

P l a c e wax b l e n d i n m i x i n g c o n t a i n e r , ad d a que ou s ph as e t o i t

and s he ar w i t h h omomixer o r c o l l o i d

m i l l .

A t

67C t h e c ru de

d i s p e r s i o n i n v e r t s a nd a t h i c k cream y e m ul si on f o r ms . C o n t i nu e

s h e a r in g w h i l e s c r a p in g t h e s i d e s o f t h e c o n t a i n e r t o make s u r e

t h e wh o le c o n t e n t i s p r o p e r l y s h e a re d . A dd pe rf um e , d e - ae r a te

and package.

Re f : 51 89-4-1

Weigh 1 - 9 and h e a t t o 85C w i t h s l o w a g i t a t i o n . The b l e n d h as

W/O Sunscreen Cream

1. A-C Po ly et hy le ne 617

2

Beeswax

3 . Amerchol L-101

4 .

I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e

5 .

Dow

200

F l u i d , 350 c s .

6 . 2 - E t h y l H ex yl S t e a r a t e

7 . T r i g l y c e r o l

D i

i o s t e a r a t e

8 . Esca lo l 507

9 .

Propyl-P-Hydroxybenzoate

10 . S o rb i t o 1 (70%)

11.Sodium Bor at e , Anhydrous

12.Methyl-P-Hydroxybenzoate

13.Germal l 115

14 .Water

SOURCE: A l l i e d S i g na l I n c .

:

S u g g e s t e d

F o r m u l a t i o n s

Wt.

3 . 0

2.0

5.0

6 . 2

1 . o

7.0

5 . 5

5 . 0

0 . 1

5 . 0

0 . 3

0 . 2

0 . 3

5 9 . 4

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 441/553

Sun Care Products 419

Sunscreen Cream

Water-in-Oil (Expected SPF 15+)

A)

Lau ry l me th i cone cop o l y o l

C a r n a t i o n

M i

n e r a l

O i

1

Octy l p-methoxy c innamate

Benzophenone-3

T i t an iu m d i o x i d e ( s m a l l p a r t i c l e s i z e )

G l yce ry l monoo l ea te

C12-15 a lc oh ol s benzoate

H yd ro ge na te d c a s t o r o i l

B)

Water

S o d i u m c h l o r i d e

S o r b i t o l

(70 )

C)

P r e s e r v a t

i

e

2.00%

5 . 0 0

7 . 5 0

2.00

4 . 0 0

1 .oo

5 .00

0 .50

q . s .

2.00

3.00

Procedure:

v e ry s l o w l y u s i n g v er y v ig o ro u s a g i t a t i o n , h e a t i n g t o m e l t

h yd ro ge na te d c a s t o r o i l . Add C . Pass th rough homogen izer t o

i n s u r e s m a ll u n i f o r m p a r t i c l e s a r e p ro du ce d. Package.

Combine A us i n g moderate a g i t a t i o n . Combine 0 . Add B t o A

Skin Bronzing Gream

L -T y ros i ne

Phenyl a1 an i ne

A s p a r t i c a c i d

Esc i n

Copper g lucona te

H y d r o l y z e d c o l l a g e n

C a r r o t o l e o r e s i n

S t .

J o h n ' s W ort e x t r a c t

D ihydroxyace tone

C e t y l a l c o h o l

P r e s e r v a t i v e

Emu1 s i f i r s , t h i cke n i ng

C a r n a t i o n M i n e r a l

O i

1

Lanol i n

S t e a r i n

T r i e thano l am i ne (85% )

Water

agen ts

0.20%

0.10

0 . 1 0

0 . 0 5

0 .01

1.50

0 .15

1 . o o

0.50

1

. o o

4 . 0 0

15.00

3 . 0 0

3 . 0 0

1 . o o

q . s . t o 1 00 .0 0

q . s .

SOURCE: W i t c o C orp . : P e t ro leum S p e c i a l t i e s G roup : S uggested

F o rmu l a t i ons

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 442/553

42 Cosmetic and Toiletry ormulations

Sunscreen Cream

1 .

2.

3 .

4 .

5 .

6 .

7 .

8 .

9 .

A - C Polye thy lene 617

Beeswax

Amerchol 1-101

I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e

Dow 200 F l u i d , 350 c s .

2 - E t h y l H e xy l S t e a r a t e

T r i g l y c e r o l

D i

s o s t e a r a t e

E sca l o l 507

P r o py l - P -Hyd r o x yb e n z o a t e

1 0 . S o r b i o 1

(70%)

11.Sodium Borate, Anhydrous

1 2 . M e t h y l - P - H y d r o x y b e n z o a t e

13.Germal l 115

14.Water

W t %

3 . 0

2 . 0

5 . 0

6 . 2

1 . 0

7 . 0

5 . 5

5 . 0

0 . 1

5 . 0

0 . 3

0 . 2

0 . 3

59 .4

Procedure:

a c l o u d p o i n t o f a p p r o x im a t e l y 80C. Above t h e c l o u d p o i n t a l l

waxes w i l l e v e n t u a l l y d i s s o l v e

in

t h e b l e n d . I f a h i g h e r s o l v -

a t i n g te m pe r at ur e i s used , s o l v a t i o n c an be much f a s t e r . H o l d

th e wax b l e nd a t 85C . H eat 10-14 t o 85-9OC and s t i r g en t l y

u n t i l a l l has d i s s o l v e d . H old a t 85C.

Weigh 1 -9 and h e a t t o 85C w i t h s l o w a g i t a t i o n . The b l e n d h as

P l a c e wax b l e n d i n m i x i n g c o n t a i n e r , add aqueous phase t o

i t

and shear w i t h homomixer o r c o l l o i d m i 11. A t 67C t h e c ru de d i s p -

e r s i o n i n v e r t s and a t h i c k cream y em u l s i o n f o r m s . C o n t i nu e

s h e ar i ng w h i l e s c r a p in g t h e s i d e s

o f

t h e c o n t a i n e r t o make s u r e

t h e wh ol e c o n t e n t

i s

p ro pe r l y shea red . Add pe rf ume , de -ae ra te

and package.

Re f: 51 89-4-9

O/W Suns creen Lot ion

1 .

A - C

Copolymer 580

2 .

D i s t i 1 e d I s o p r o p y l L a n o l a te

3 . E sca l o l 507

4. Dow 556 F l u i d

5 . Pro py l ene G1 yc o l D i p e l a rgona te

6 .

Ethoxyo l 24

7 . A r l a c e l 6 0

8 . Tween 60

9 . P r o py l - p -Hyd r o x yb e n z o a t e

1 0 . S o r b i t o l ( 7 0 % )

11 .Carbop01 941

12 .T r i e t h ano l a m i ne

13 .M e thy l - p -Hyd roxybenzoa te

14.Water

SOURCE: A l l i e d S ig na l I n c .

:

S uggested F o rm u l a t i on s

w3.3

2 . 0

3 . 0

5 . 0

2 . 0

10 .0

1 . o

1 . o

2 . 0

0 . 1

5 . 0

0 . 5

0 .75

0 . 2

67.45

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 443/553

Sun Care Products 421

Sun Screen Cream

W/O

A .

M i g l y o l G e l B

I m w i t o r

780K

A l u g e l

D F

30

9.

Hard p a r a f f i n

P a r a f f i n o i l

Euso lex 6300

A n t i o x i d a n t s

C . Perfume

P r e s e r v a t i v e

D.

Eusolex 232

T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e

Mowiol 10-98

Water

W B

2 0 . 0

1 0 . 0

3 . 0

3.0

5 . 0

4 . 0

q s

qs

q s

6 0

5 . 0

3 0

100.0

P r e p a r a t i o n :

B . a re b rough t t o t he same tempera tu re and hea ted t o A .

D.

i s

h e at e d t o a p pr o x. 75C and e m u l s i f i e d i n A . + B . Perfume i s

i n c o r p o r a t e d a t a p p r o x . 30C.

The i n g r e d i e n t s o f

A .

a r e m ixed and hea ted t o

8OC.

Those o f

Sun Screen Cream

O/W

A . I m w i t o r 960 f l a k e s

M i g l y o l 840

L a n e t t e N

Neo Hel iopan E 1000

B . 1 , 2 - P r o p y l e n e g l y c o l

Hygro pl ex

HHG

Water

C. Perfume

P r e s e r v a t i v e

Wt%

1 0 . 0

8 . 0

6 . 0

3 .0

3 . 0

5 . 0

t o

1 0 0 . 0

q s

q s

P r e p a r a t i o n :

The i n g r e d i e n t s o f

A .

a r e h ea te d t o

75-8OC.

Those o f

13.

a r e

h e at ed t o t h e same t e m p e r a tu r e and e m u l s i f i e d i n

A .

Perfume

i s

added a t ap prox . 30C.

SOURCE: Huls Amer i ca Inc.: F o r m u l a t i o n s

f o r

Cosmet ics : Formulas

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 444/553

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 445/553

Sun

Care Products

423

Sunscreen Cream

I n a r e d i e n t s :

A Oc ty l me thoxyc i nn i ma te

Benzophenone-3

Ar lamo l

E

S t e a r y l a l c o h o l

D imet h icone , 350 cp s.

B r i j 721s

B r i j 72

B Water , d e i o n i zed

Carbomer 940

C Water , de i o n i zed

Sod ium hydrox ide

(10

W / W aqueous)

7 .00

3 . 0 0

5 . 0 0

0 . 5 0

0 . 5 0

2 . 0 0

2 . 0 0

69.60

0 . 2 0

10.00

0 . 2 0

Procedure :

and s t i r w i t h p r o p e l l e r a g i t a t i o n . Add

( C )

below 60 deg. C .

S t i r t o 35 deg .

C .

Add w a te r t o r e p l a c e loss b y e v a p o r a t i o n

and package.

H ea t (A ) t o 60 deg .

C

and (B ) t o 65 deg.

C .

Add 6 ) o

( A )

Sunscreen Cream

I n a r e d i e n t s :

A O c t y l m e th o xy ci n n i mate

Benzophenone-3

Ar lamo l

E

S t e a r y l a l c o h o l

D imeth icone, 350 cps.

B r i j 721s

B r i j 72

B Water , d e i o n i zed

Carbomer 940

C

Water, de i on i zed

Sodium hydrox ide (10%

W /W

aqueous)

%w/w

5 .00

0 . 5 0

5 . 0 0

0 . 5 0

0 . 5 0

2 . 0 0

2.00

74.10

0 . 2 0

1 0 . 0 0

0 . 2 0

Procedure:

H ea t (A ) t o 60 deg .

C

and (B ) t o 65 deg .

C .

Add

6 )

o (A )

and s t i r w i t h p r o p e l l e r a g i t a t i o n . Add

( C )

below 60 deg.

C .

S t i r

t o 35 d eg.

C .

Add w at er t o r e p l a c e l o s s b y e v a p o r a t i o n and

package.

SOURCE:

IC1

S u r f a c t a n t s : S ug g es te d F o r m u l a t i o n s

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 446/553

424 Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations

Sunscreen Cream

I n a r e d i e n t : o ow w

P a r t

A :

De ion i zed Water 78.16

R heol a t e

5 0 0 0

0 . 3

P ropy l ene C a rbona te 2 . 5

P a r t

B :

Panal ene 8 . 0

S i l i c o n e 7 2 0 7 1 . o

Promulgen

D

0 . 5

Cerap hyl 494 2. 0

P a r t C :

AMP-95 0 . 2 4

P a r t

D :

Euxyl K-400

0 . 3

F i n so l v TN 2 .0

Esca lo l 507

5 . 0

M a n u f a c tu r i n g D i r e c t i o n s :

1 . Combine t h e i n g r e d i e n t s i n P a r t A b y s l o w l y s i f t i n g i n t h e

p olym er t o t h e w at er , m i x i n g f o r 2 0 m i n u t e s, t h e n a d d in g t h e

p r o p y le n e g l y c o l . H eat t o 80C.

2 . Combine a l l i n g r e d i e n t s i n P a r t 6 , t h en h e a t t o 78C.

3 . Add P a r t B t o P a r t

A

w h i l e s t i r r i n g . M i x f o r 1 0 mi nu tes , t hen

a d d P a r t

C .

4 . C oo l t o 40C b e f o r e a d d i n g P a r t

D .

Package a t Room Tem per atu re.

Formula TS-330

Suntan Cream

Mater

i

1s

:

%

by Weiqh t

P a r t

A :

1 . Dei on i zed Water 73 .50

2 . G l y c e r i n e 2 .5 0

3 . T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e

0 . 7 0

4. Methy l Paraben 0 . 1 0

5 . Be nton e LT r h e o l o g i c a l a d d i t i v e 0 . 5 0

P a r t E :

6. Ceraphy l 424

3 . 0 0

7 .

I s o c e t y l S t e a r a t e 2 .0 0

0

A c e t o l 2 . 5 0

9 . C ocoa B u t t e r 1 . o o

10 .H ys t re ne 5016 4.00

11 .

Lexemul 503 6 .8 0

12 . E sc a l o l 507 3 .00

13 . P ro py l Paraben 0 . 1 0

P a r t

C :

Fragrance 0 . 3 0

M a n u f a c tu r i n g D i r e c t i o n s :

1 .

P a r t A - In a s t a i n l e s s s t e e l s team j a c k e te d k e t t l e , a dd i t e m s

1 t o 4 and he at t o 60C. Us ing a homomixer, add i t e m

5

s l o w l y

t o a v o i d lumps an d m i x f o r 20 m i n u t e s o r u n t i l homogeneous.

Heat t o 80C.

80C.

M i x u n t i 1 compl e t e l y me1 t e d and homogeneous.

2 . P a r t 5 - I n a s e p a r a te v e s s e l , add i t e m s 6 t o 13 and h e a t t o

3 . Add P a r t B s l o w l y i n P a r t A a t 80C u s i ng sweep b l ad es .

4 .

A t 50C, add P a r t

C,

homogenize and

f i l l

u n i t s .

Formula TS-256

SOURCE:

R h e o x ,

I n c . : S ug ge st ed F o r m u l a t i o n s

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 447/553

Sun

Care Products 425

Sunscreen Gel (approx. SPF 10)

A

c l e a r s un sc re en g e l d es ig ne d t o p r o v i d e

UV

p r o t e c t i o n w h i l e

l e a v i n g t h e s k i n s o f t a nd c o n d i t i o n e d . Geahlene p r o v i d e s v i s c -

o s i t y , e m ol ?i en c y, and w a te r r e p e l l e n c y t o t h i s f or m u la .

Inqred ien t /T rade Name: Wei ah t%

A M i n e r a l O i l (and) Hydrogena ted Bu t y len e /E thy lene /

St yre ne Copolymer (and) Hydrogenated Ethy le ne/

Pr op yle ne /St yr en e Copolymer/ /Geahlene 750 73.80

Oct y ldo dec y l Neopentanoa te /E le fac 1 -205 14 .00

T ocophe ro l A ce ta te /V i t am i n E A c e t a t e 0 . 5 0

Fragrance 0 .10

B Octy l Methoxyc innamate /Parso l MCX

Benzophenone-3/Uvinul M-40

O c t y l S a l i c y l a t e / U v i n u l 0-18

Propy l paraben

7 .50

2 . 0 0

2 . 0 0

0 . 1 0

C D&C Green No. 6 q . s .

Procedure:

w i t h mode ra te m i x i ng . Add C as necessa ry .

Mix A u n t i l homogeneous. Heat B t o

6 0 C

u n t i l c l e a r . Add B t o A

Sunscreen Gel (approx. SPF

12)

A

c l e a r s un sc re en g e l w i t h e x c e l l e n t s p r e a d a b i l i t y and a

p l ea s a nt , e m o l l i e n t a f t e r f e e l . Geahlene p r o v i d e s v i s c o s i t y ,

l u b r i c i t y , and w ate r r e p e l l e n c y t o t h i s f o rm u l a.

Inqred ien t /T rade Name:

Wei n h t%

A

M i n e r a l O i l (and) Hydrogenated Bu t y le ne / E th y len e /

St yr en e Copolymer (and) Hydrogenated Et hy len e/

Pro py l ene /Sty ren e Copolymer //Geahlene 750 65.00

I s o p r o p y l I s o s t e a r a t e / P r i s o r i ne 2021 2 0 . 8 0

Tocophero l Ace ta te /V i tami n E A c e t a t e 0 . 5 0

Fragrance 0 .10

B Octy l Methoxyc innamate /Parso l

MCX

Benzophenone-3/Uvinul M-40

O c t y l S a l i c y l a t e / U v i n u l 0-18

Propy lparaben

7 .50

4.00

2 .00

0.10

C D&C Red

No.

4 Aluminum Lake q.s.

Procedure:

A w i t h mode rate m i x i ng . Add C as necessa ry .

SOURCE:

Penreco : Sugges ted For mu l a t i o ns

Mix A u n t i l homogeneous. Heat B t o 60C u n t i l c l e a r . Add

B

t o

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 448/553

426

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Sunscreen

Gel

SPF 6

FDA-OTC)*

I n q r e d i e n t s :

A

E t h y l a l c o h o l ( 96 V o l . % ) denatu red

Demi n e r a l ed wat er

1 ,P -P ropy l ene g l y c o l

Germaben

I 1

A1 1a n t o i n

D-Panthenol

Carbopol 940

B Demi n e r a l i ed water

T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e

C

Demi n e r a l ed wat er

Neo He l i op an , Type Hydro

T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e

D

Cremophor NP 14

Perfume

O i l

E

Sunset Yel low 307009

1% a q. s o l u t i o n

5,000

60,350

5 , 0 0 0

1,000

0,100

0,500

1,100

5,000

2,200

15,000

2,000

1,200

1,200

0,300

0,050

*Sun P r o t e c t i o n F a c t o r :

T e s te d SPF 5 . 9 o n a f i v e s u b j e c t p a n el a c c o r d i n g t o t h e

FDA-OTC p ro po se d me thod .

M a n u f a c t u r i n g

Process:

P a r t

A :

t o i n i n t h e a lc o h ol - wa t er s o l u t i o n . Then s l o w l y add w h i l e

s t i r r i n g Ca rb op ol 940 and c o n t in u e u n t i l c o m p l e te l y d i s p e rs e d .

P a r t

B :

D i l u t e t h e n e u t r a l i z i n g a ge nt w i t h w ate r a nd add s l o w l y i n t o

p a r t A f o r n e u t r a l i z a t i o n . A h i g h v i s c i d g e l w i l l be formed.

P a r t

C :

Add Neo H el i op a n , Type H yd ro w h i l e s t i r r i n g i n t o t h e w a te r

t o g e t a s us pe ns io n. C on ti nu e s t i r r i n g and add s l o w l y t r i e t h a n -

o la m in e u n t i l t h e n e u t r a l i z a t i o n o f Neo H e l i o pa n , Type Hy dro

i s c om p le te and a c l e a r s o l u t i o n i s o b t a i n e d . B e fo r e a d di ng t h e

s o l u t i o n i n t o t h e g e l p a r t

A / B , i t

i s recommendable t o f i l t e r t h e

s o l u t i on .

P a r t D :

t u r e w h i l e s t i r r i n g i n t o t h e g e l

A / B / C .

P a r t

E :

D i s s o l v e p r o py l en e g l y c o l , Germaben 1 1 , Pa nt he no l and A1 1 an-

B le nd t h e pe rfu me o i l w i t h t h e s o l u b i l i z e r and add t h e m ix -

W h i l e s t i r r i n g , add t h e c o lo r a n t t o t h e t r an s pa r e nt g e l .

The

p H

v a l u e o f t h e g e l s h o u l d b e a p p ro x . 7 . 2 - 7 . 5. A t a pH

va l ue be l ow

7

Neo H e l i o pa n , Type Hy dr o c o u l d p r e c i p i t a t e .

SOURCE Haarman &

R e i m e r :

Formula

K 1 8 / 5 - 5 1 2 8 2

D/E

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 449/553

Sun Care Products 427

Sunscreen Lotion

T h i s f o r m u la d em on st ra te s t h e r h e o l o g i c a and s t a b i l i z i n g

p r o p e r t i e s

o f

C era B e l l i n a and o f S i l i c o n y l Beeswax. I n c o r p -

o r a t e d i n t o t h i s f or m ul a i s t h e sunscreen N o H e l i o p a n

A V

( O c t y l m et ho xy cin na ma te ) g i v i n g t h i s f o r m u l a an a p p r o p r i a t e

SPF v a l u e . The p r o d u c t h as h i g h g l o s s a nd e x c e l l e n t s k i n f e e l .

The r h e o l o g i c a l p r o p e r t i e s o f Cera B e l l i n a a l l o w f o r t h i s

p r o d u ct t o b e packaged i n c o nv e n ie n t t u b e s o r squeeze b o t t l e s .

O i l

Phase:

Neo Hel iopan AV (H&R) 5.00%

Squalane (Centerchem) 2.00 %

Cera B e l l i n a (Pg-3 Beeswax; Ko st er Keunen) 4.00%

Gl yc er o l Monos teara te (Henke l ) 0 .50%

L i g h t M i n e r a l O i l (W i tco ) 1 .50%

Is o s t e a r i c A c i d (Un ichema) 4 .00%

Liquapar (S u t t on ) 0 .40%

O c t y l P a l m i t a t e ( I n o l e x ) 5.0 0%

Shea B u t t e r (K os te r Keunen) 4.00%

E m u ls i f y in g Wax (K os te r Keunen) 1.50%

V i t a m i n

E

(BASF) 0.10%

V i t a m i n

A

P a l m i t a te (BASF) 0 .10%

S t ea r i c A c i d (Un ichema)

0 . 5 0 %

Ce re s in e 130/135 (K os te r Keunen)

0.70%

Hex ane diol Behenyl Beeswax (K o st e r Keunen) 1.00%

S i l i c o n y l Beeswax (K os te r Keunen) 1 .40%

Pro py l Paraben (Su t to n) 0 .20%

E l e f a c I 205 (B er ne l ) 1 .40%

Sun f 1ower O i 1 ( L i po) 3.00%

P r op y le n e G l y c o l D i o c t a n a t e ( I n o l e x ) 5 .0 0 %

Is op ro py l Pa lm i ta te (Un ichema) 3 .00%

D i

os tea ry l Mal a t e (B e rne l ) 1 .20%

Gamma Orz ano l ( K o s t e r Keunen)

1 .OO

Water Phase:

Water ( D i s t i 11ed) 41

.70%

1,3 -Bu ty lene G l yc o l (Hoechs t ) 3 .00%

C a r b o x y m e t h y l C e l l u l o s e ( H e r c u l e s ) 0.30%

K e l t r o l TF (K e l co ) 0.30%

Methy l Paraben (S ut to n) 0 .30%

Sodium Borate (Borax) 0.60%

Water Phase 11:

W ater ( D i s t i l l e d ) 5 .00%

Tea

99%

(Dow)

0.80

Act i

e Phase :

S i l i c o n e 245 (Dow) 1.00%

Phenonip (N ip a) 0.50%

He at t h e w a te r pha se t o

8OC

u nder a g i t a t i o n e n s u ri n g t h a t

t h e e n t i r e phase i s s o l u b i l i z e d . Heat and m ix t h e o i l phase t o

82C. S l o w l y add t h e o i l phase t o t h e w a t e r phase, c o o l t o

70C

and add water phase

11. Cool

t o 40 a n d add t h e a c t i v e p ha se .

C oo l t o room tempe ra tu re .

I t

i s easy t o a l t e r t h e sunscreen t o s u i t your p re fe re n ce ,

w i t h o u t c h an g in g t h e c o n s i s t e n c y . The em u ls io n v i s c o s i t y ca n

e a s i l y b e a l t e r e d by ch an gin g t h e o i l a nd /o r wax c o n c e n t r a t io n .

Orange Wax ( K o s t e r Keunen) ca n be added t o natu ra l l y enhance SPF .

SOURCE:

Koster Keunen, I nc . : Sugges ted Formu la t i ons

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 450/553

428 Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations

Sunscreen Lotion (approx. SPF 15)

T h i s n on gr ea sy s un sc re en i s e a s i l y a p p l i e d a nd h as a

d r y a f t e r f e e l . The Geahlene 750 adds v i s c o s i t y and r i c h n e s s

t o t h e l o t i o n , and sh ou ld c o n t r i b u t e t o wa te r r e s i s ta n ce .

Ins red ien t /T rade Name:

A Deion ized Water

A c r y l a t e s C10-30 A l k y l A c r y l a t e C ro s s-

Methy lparaben

T e tr asod ium EDTA/Hamp-Ene 220

polymer/Carbopol 1382

B T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e , 9 9 %

C M i n e r a l O i l (and) Hvdrosenated Bu tv le ne /E th y lene /

S ty ren e Copo lymer i a n d j Hyd

Propy lene/Styrene Copolymer

Oc ty l Methoxyc innamate /Parso

Benzophenone-3/Uvinul

M-40

O c t y l S a l i y1 a te /U v i nu l 0-1 8

C e t y l A l c o h o l / L a n e t t e 16

Propy lparaben

P h e n o x y e t h a n o l / E m e r e s s e n c e

1

ogenated E thy lene /

/Geahl ene

750

MCX

60

S te a r i c Ac i d /Emersol 132

Po ta ss i um C e t y l Phosphate/Amphi s o l K

D D i

azo1

i

i ny l U rea/Germa l l

I 1

Procedure :

F ragrance

Wei ah t%

69.80

0 .20

0 . 1 5

0.10

0.20

0 . 0 0

7 .5 0

4.00

2

*

00

1

. o o

0 . 0 5

0 .60

2.00

2 . 0 0

0 .30

0 .1 0

D i sperse Carbopol 1382 i r a p i d l y a g i t a t e d d e i o n i zed w a t e r .

M i x u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y l u m p- f re e . Heat t o 80C. Add rema in ing p a r t

i n g r e d i e n t s . Add p a r t

B

t o p a r t A . M ix u n t i l u n i fo rm . I n a

s e pa r a te c o n t a i n e r , h e at p a r t C t o 80-85C. M ix u n t i l a l l t h e

s o l i d s a r e d i s s o l v e d . Add p a r t C t o p a r t A . M i x f o r 30 m in u te s

u n t i l homogeneous. C oo l t o 4 0 C . A dd pa r t D . C on t i nue m i x i ng and

c o o l i n g t o 30C.

SOURCE: Penreco : Suggested Fo rm u l a t i on

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 451/553

Sun Care

Products 429

Sunscreen Lotion

I n s r e d i e n t s :

A Oc ty l me thoxyci nn ima te

Benzophenone-3

P e t r o l a t u m

Dimeth icone

B r i j 721s

B r i j 72

B Water , de i o n i zed

Carbomer 934

C Water, de i on i zed

Sodium hydrox ide

(10% W /W

aqueous)

w

7 .00

3 . 0 0

25.00

3.00

1.20

3 .00

46.60

0 . 2 0

10.00

0.20

Procedure:

and s t i r w i t h p r o p e l l e r a g i t a t i o n . Add (C) b e lo w

60

deg. C .

S t i r

t o 35 deg .

C .

Add w at e r t o r e p l a c e l o s s b y e v a po r a t i on

and package.

He at (A ) t o

60

deg.

C

and

( 8 )

t o 6 5 d eg .

C .

Add (B) t o (A)

O/W Emoll ient Sunscreen Lotion

I n n r e d i e n t s :

A O c t y l d im et hy l PABA

Benzophenone-3

Ar lamol

E

S t e a r y l a l c o h o l

D imeth icone

A r l aso l ve 200

B r i j 72

Carbomer 934

B Water

C

Sodium hy dr ox id e (10% W /W aqueous)

D * P r e s e r v a t i v e a n d f r a g r a n c e

* q . s . t he se i n g r e d i e n t s .

w

7 .00

3 . 0 0

7 . 0 0

2 .50

1 . o o

3 . 1 0

3.90

72.10

0.20

0 .20

Procedure:

D ispe rse Carbomer i n wa te r and hea t (B ) t o 70C. Heat

( A )

t o

72C. and add ( B) t o ( A) w i t h p r o p e l l e r a g i t a t i o n . S l o w ly add

( C ) and in c r ea se speed of t h e a g i t a t i o n a s ne ed ed. Add ( D ) and

r e p l a c e w a te r l o s t by e v a p o r a t i o n .

SOURCE: I C 1 S u r f a c t a n t s : S ug ge st ed F o r m u l a t i o n s

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 452/553

43

Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations

Sunscreen Lotion (O/W)

SPF 6 (DIN 67501)*

I n n r e d i e n t s :

Demi n e r a l ed wa ter

Carbopol 934

Sodium hyd rox i de , ( 10% aq. s o l u t i o n )

T e g i n

M

Tagat S

L a n e t t e 0

P a r a f f i n o i 1 ( 70 mPas)

I s o p ro p y l m y r i s t a t e

M y r i t o l 318

Neo Hel iopan, Type

A V

C e t i o l

MM

A b i l 100

Pheno ni p

Demi n e r a l i ed wate r

Pheno ni p

Neo He l io pa n, Type Hydro

u se d a s a 15% a q. s o l u t i o n n e u t r a l i z e d w i t h

i d e c o r r e s p o n d i n g

0,5

a c t i v e Neo H e l i o p a n ,

1 , 2 - P r o p y l e n e g l y c o l

Demi n e r a l i ed water

P hosphor i c ac i d ,

D i

sod i um s a l t

P hosphor i c ac i d , Monopotassium s a l t

Perfume

O i l

% ( w / w )

25,000

0,400

2,050

2,500

1,950

1,800

2,500

2,000

3,000

2,500

2,000

0,500

0,200

36,850

0,300

3,350

s o d i urn hy dr ox -

Type Hydro

2,000

10,000

0,580

0,120

0,400

*Sun P r o t e c t i o n F a c t o r

Tested mean SPF 6 according t o t h e German D I N 67501 method.

M a n u f a c t u r i n g P r oc e ss :

P a r t

A :

D i sp e rs e t h e C a rb op ol i n wa t er u s i n g h i g h speed a g i t a t i o n .

M i x t o fo rm a u n i fo r m d i s p e r s i o n f r e e f ro m lumps. W i th s t i r r i n g

add t o t h e d i s p e r s i o n t h e sodium h y d ro x id e s o l u t i o n t o f or m a

h i gh v i s c i d g e l .

P a r t : Heat t o 75C.

P a r t

C :

M i x w h i l e c o o l i n g t o 60C and add t h e Ca rb op ol g e l p a r t A .

P a r t

D:

D i s s o l v e D i so d i um Phosp hate and P o t a s s i um Phosp hate i

w a te r a t

60C .

Add t h e b u f f e r s o l u t i o n t o t h e e m u ls io n a t 55-60C.

P a r t

E :

C o nt in ue s t i r r i n g t o room te m pe ra tu re .

H ea t t o 85C. Add p a r t

C

t o p a r t

B

w h i l e s t i r r i n g r a p i d l y .

Cool w h i l e s t i r r i n g t o 35-40C and add t h e p e rfu me o i l .

The pH-value

o f

t h e f i n i s h e d e m u ls io n s h o u ld be

7 . 5

and

m ust be c o n t r o l l e d .

SOURCE:

Haarman

&

R e i mer : F o rmu l a t i on

K

18/1-51093

D / E

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 453/553

Sun

Care

Products 431

Sunscreen Lotion (o/w)

SPF 11 (DIN 67501)*

I n a r e d i e n t s :

T e g i n M

Tagat

S

L a n e t t e 0

P a r a f f i n o i l (70mPas)

I s o p r o p y l m y ri s t a t e

M y r i t o l 3 18

Neo Hel iopan, Type

E

C e t i o l

MM

A b i l 1 0 0

Phenoni p

1000

%(w/w)

3,500

1,500

2 ,700

2 , 0 0 0

2,000

3,000

3,000

2 , 000

0,500

0 ,200

D e m i n e r a l i z e d w a t e r

5 2 , 5 0 0

Carb opol 934 0,400

Sod ium hydrox ide

(10%

a q. s o l u t i o n ) 2 ,0 50

Neo Hel iopan, Type Hydro used as a 15 a q . s o l u t i o n 13 ,3 50

n e u t r a l i z e d w i t h sod iu m h y d r o x i d e c o r r e s p on d i n g 2%

a c t i v e Neo He l i op an , Type Hydro

Phenoni p

0 , 2 0 0

D e m i n e r a l i z e d w a t e r

P h os p ho ri c a c i d , D is od iu m s a l t

P hospho ri c ac i d , Monopotassi um s a l t

10,000

0,580

0,120

Perfume O i l 0,400

*Sun P r o t e c t i o n F a c t o r :

Te st ed mean SPF 1 1. 8 a cc or di n g t o t h e German DIN 67501

method.

Manu fac tu r i ng P rocess :

P a r t A : Heat t o

7 5 C .

P a r t 8 :

D i s p e rs e t h e C a rb op ol w e l l i n w a te r u s i n g h i g h speed a g i t -

a t i o n . M i x t o f o r m a u n i f o r m d i s p e r s i o n f r e e f r o m lu mp s. Add

w i t h s t i r r i n g t o t h e d i s p e r s i o n Phenonip and t h e sodium h yd ro x-

i d e s o l u t i o n . Then add t h e n e u t r a l i z e d s o l u t i o n o f t h e 15% Neo

H e l i op an , T ype H yd ro and hea t t o 85C. Add p a r t

B

s l o w ly w i t h

t h o ro ug h a g i t a t i o n t o p a r t A . Then c o o l w i t h s t i r r i n g t o 60C.

P a r t C :

a t 60C ( b u f f e r s ys t em ) . Add p a r t C t o p a r t A/B and c o o l w i t h

s t i r r i n g t o 35-40C.

P a r t D :

D i s s o l v e D i c a l c i um Phosphate and Po ta ss i um Phosphate i n water

Add t h e p er fum e o i l and c o n t i n u e s t i r r i n g t o room t e mp e ra tu r e.

The pH v a l u e o f t h e f i n i s h e d e m u l s io n s h o u l d b e 7 . 5 a nd mu st

be c o n t r o l l e d .

SOURCE: Haarman

&

R e i mer : F o rmu l a t i on K 1 8 / 1 - 5 1 0 9 7 / E

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 454/553

432 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Sunscreen Lotion (O/W)

SPF 4 (DIN 67501)

I n q r e d i e n t s :

A A r l a t o n e 9 8 3 S

B r i j 76

L a n e t t e

0

P a r a f f i n o i l ( 70 mPas)

Cegesof t C24

E u tano l

G

B a y s i l o n e F l u i d M10

Neo Hel iopan, Type

E

1000

S o l b r o l P

1 , 2 P r o p yl e ne g l y c o l

S o l b r o l M

Germal l 115

Carbopol 934

Sodium h y d r o x i d e (10% s o l u t i o n i n

Perfume

O i l

B D e m i n e r a l i z e d w a t e r

C Demi n e r a l i ed wate r

w a t e r )

%(w/w)

1,500

1 , 0 0 0

I

200

2,000

3,000

5 , 0 0 0

1 , 0 0 0

3,500

o , oao

52,370

2,000

0,200

0 ,150

25,000

0,300

1,300

0,400

Manu fac tu r i ng P rocess :

P a r t

A :

Heat up t o 75C.

P a r t B : Heat up t o 85C. Add p a r t

B

t o p a r t A w h i l e s t i r r i n g .

P a r t C : D i s p e r s e t h e C ar bo po l i n t h e w at e r u s i n g h i g h speed

Cool w i t h s t i r r i n g t o 55C.

a g i t a t i o n . M i x t o f o rm a u n i fo r m d i s p e r s i o n f r e e f r om lum ps.

Add sodium hy d ro x id e s o l u t i o n w h i l e s t i r r i n g t o f o rm a h ig h

v i s c i d g e l . Add p a r t C t o p a r t A/B w h i l e s t i r r i n g . A t 3 5 C add

t h e f r a g r a n c e a nd c o o l down w h i l e s t i r r i n g t o room te m pe ra tu re .

The pH v a l u e o f t h e f i n i s h e d e m u ls i on s h o u l d b e 7 -7 . 5.

SOURCE: Haarman

&

Reimer : Formula

K 1 8 / 1 - 5 1

0 9 0 / E

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 455/553

Sun Care

Products 433

Sunscreen Lotion (o/w)

SPF 18 (FDA-OTC)*

I n g r e d i e n t s :

Neo

H e l i o p a n ,

Type A V

Neo H e l i opan , TvDe

MA

.

_ .

I s o p r op y l m y ri s t a t e

Myr j 52

C u t i n a MD

Promulgen

D

Antaron V-220

B ay s i lo n e F l u i d M 10

Demi n e r a l i ed wate r

Carbopol 940; used as a 2% aq. s o l u t i o n

1 , 2 - P r o p y l e n e g l y c o l

T r i l o n BD

%(w/w)

7,500

5,000

3 i 0 0 0

2,000

3,000

2,000

4,000

2,000

45,830

15,000

2,000

0,100

Neo He l io pa n, Type Hydro used as a 30% aq. s o l u t i o n 6,670

n e u t r a l i z e d w i t h t r i e t h a n o l a m i n e c o r re s p on d in g 2%

a c t i v e Neo He l i op an Type Hydro

T r i e thano l am i ne 0 ,500

Germaben

I 1

Perfume

O i l

1,000

0,400

*Sun P r o t e c t i o n F a c t o r :

Tes te d mean SPF va lu e 18 .25 on a f i v e su b j ec t pane l

ac co rd in g t o t h e FDA-OTC propo sed method.

Manu fac tu r i ng P rocess :

I n a s u i t a b l e v e s se l w ei gh p hase

A

and h e a t t o 75C w i t h

a g i t a t i o n . I n a no th er v es se l a b l e t o c o n t a i n t h e e n t i r e b a tc h,

w e igh phase B and hea t t o 75C w i t h a g i t a t i o n . S l ow l y add phase

A t o phase 0 , m i x for

10

mi nu t es and add phase C . M i x u n t i l

u n i f o r m and s t a r t c o o l i g w i t h c o n t in u o u s a g i t a t i o n . Cool t o 40C

and add phases D and E. C on t in ue c o o l i n g w i t h a g i t a t i o n t o

28-25C and pa ckag e.

SOURCE: Haarman & R e i mer : F o rmu l a t i on

K

18/1-51677/E

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 456/553

434 Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations

Sunscreen Lotion (w/o)

SPF

10

(DIN

67501)*

I n g r e d i e n t s :

A

A r l a c e l

481

A r l a c e l 9 8 9

Eutano l

G

I s o p r op y l i s o s t e a r a t e

P a r a f f i n o i l ( 70 mPas)

Neo Hel iopan, Type

E

1000

Neo Hel iopan, Type

A V

Neo Hel iopan, Type

BB

B a ys i l on e F l u i d M 10

Vase l i ne Type Merkur 1546

Amerchol L 101

S o l b r o l P

B Demi n e r a l

i

ed water

S o l b r o l

M

G l y c e r i n 8 6 %

Magnesi um s u l f a t e

%(w/w)

3,500

1,500

2,250

2,250

3,340

4,000

4 ,000

1,000

1,000

7,500

1,000

0,080

65,380

0,200

2,000

0 , 5 0 0

C Perfume O i l

0 ,500

*Sun P r o t e c t i o n F a c t o r :

Teste d mean SPF 1 0. 6 a cc or d i ng t o t h e German D I N 67501

method.

Manu fac tu r i ng P rocess :

P a r t A : Heat t o 75C.

P a r t B :

s t i r r i n g . A t 70C homogenize t h e emuls ion f o r a few mi nu te s .

P a r t C :

35C i n t o t h e e m u ls io n . Then c o n t i n u e s t i r r i n g t o r oom temp-

e r a t u r e .

SOURCE: Haarman & R e i m e r : F o r m u l a t i o n K

1 8 / 1 - 5 1 0 9 8 / E

Heat t o 85-9OC. Add p a r t B t o p a r t

A

s l o w l y u nd e r t h o r o u g h

C on t i nu e c o o l i n g under s t i r r i n g and add t h e per fume o i l a t

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 457/553

Sun Care Products 435

Sunscreen Lotion (o/w) cold processing)

SPF (FDA-OTC)*, waterproof**

I n p r e d i e n t s :

A Demi n e r a l i ed w a te r

1

, Z - p r o p y l ene g l y c o l

A r o s o l

S o l b r o l M

S o l b r o l P

T r i l o n

B

l i q u i d

B Nso Hel iopan, Type

A V

Neo He l io pa n, Type E 1 0 0 0

P a r a f f i n o i l

( 7 0

mPas)

C e t i o l

S

Lameform TGI

Perfum e o i l

Pemulen TR-1

Carbopol 954

%(w/w)

77,500

2,000

0 ,500

0,250

0,100

0 , 1 0 0

3 ,000

3,000

6,500

5,000

1 , 0 0 0

0,300

0,250

0 ,050

C T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e 0 , 4 5 0

*Sun P r o te c t i o n F ac to r (S P F ) :

The SPF was de te rm i ned on a f i v e s ub j e c t pane l t e s t acco rd i ng

t o t h e FDA-OTC pro pos ed method.

The p r o ce d u re f o r d e t e r m i n i n g " w a t e r p r o o f " e f f e c t i v e n e s s was

20 m i nu te s m o de ra te a c t i v i t y i n w a t e r . The SPF b e f o r e wa te r

i mmers ion was 5 . 7 and a f t e r w a te r i mmers i on 6 .1 .

* *Waterp roo f :

Manu fac tu r i ng P rocess :

P a r t A :

m i x t u r e and T r i l o n

B

l i q u i d t o t h e w at e r .

P a r t

B :

C ar bo po l and Pemulen v e r y c a r e f u l l y w i t h h i g h speed a g i t a t i o n .

Then add p a r t B t o p a r t A w h i l e s t i r r i n g . S t i r f o r 45 m in u t e s .

P a r t C :

The pH - va lu e o f t h e f i n i s h e d e m u ls i on s h o u l d be a p p ro x . 7 a nd

has t o b e c o n t r o l l e d .

SOURCE: Haarman

&

R e i mer : F o rmu l a t i on K 1 8 / 1 - 5 1

6 6 9

C / E

D i s s o l v e A r o s o l , S o l t r o l P and

M

i n pr o py le n e g l y c o l . Add t h e

M i x a1 1 i n g r ed i e n t s (w i t ho u t Permul en and C a rbopo l

)

. D i s p e r s e

Add t r i e t h a n o l a m i n e w h i l e s t i r r i n g and s t i r u n t i l homogeneous.

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 458/553

436 Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations

Sunscreen Lotion

SPF 3 FDA-OTC)*

I n g r e d i e n t s :

A

Neo He l io pa n, Type

AV

Neo Hel iopan, Type BB

Neo He l i op an , Type 303

Ganex WP 660

L a n e t t e 0

A b i l 1 0 0

Protachem SQI

B D e i o n i z e d w a t e r

Carbopo l 940 used as a 2% aq . s o l u t i o n

Pemulen TR-1 used as a 2% aq. s o l u t i o n

l I 2 - Pr o p y 1 ene g l y c o l

%(w/w)

7,500

6,000

91000

3,000

0,500

2,000

0,200

52,150

5,000

10,000

3,000

C T r i e th ano l ami ne 0 ,250

D Germaben I 1

Perfume

O i l

1,000

0.400

*Sun P r o t e c t i o n F a c t o r :

T e s t e d SPF 3 1 .5 on a f i v e s u b j e c t p a ne l a c c o r d i n g t o t h e

FDA-OTC proposed method.

Manu fac tu r i ng P rocess :

I n a s u i t a b l e v e s s el w ei gh p hase

A ,

h e a t up t o BOC-85C and

m ix u n t i l u n i f o rm . I n a no th er v es se l a b l e t o c o n t a in t h e e n t i r e

b a t c h , w e ig h ph ase 8, h e a t t o 80C and m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . S l o w l y

add phase A t o phase B w i t h a g i t a t i o n and m ix f o r t e n m i nu te s .

S l ow ly add phase C and s t a r t c o o l i n g . Cool w i t h c o nt in u ou s a g i t -

a t i o n t o 40C and add phase D . C on tin ue c o o l i n g w i t h a g i t a t i o n

t o 28C-25C. M i l l and package.

SOURCE: Haarman

&

R e i mer : F o rmu l a t i on H 101-47-5

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 459/553

Sun

Care

Products 437

Sunscreen Lotion (O/W)

Tested

SPF 10

I n a r e d i e n t s :

A A r l a c e l 1 6 5

Eumulgin

B

2

L a n e t t e

0

M y r i t o l 3 1 8

C e t i o l O E

A b i l 1 0 0

Bentone Gel

M I 0

C u t i n a

CBS

Neo Hel iopan, Type AV

Neo He l i op an , Type

E

1000

Neo H e l i o pa n , Type MBC

Neo H e l i o p a n , Type BB

B D emi ne ra l i zed w a te r

Phenoni p

G l y c e r i n 8 6 %

Veegum u l t r a

Nat roso l 250 HHR

Z i n c O xid e n e u t r a l H&R

C

Perfume o i l

% ( w / w l

3.00

1

. o o

1 .15

4 . 0 0

5.00

1 . o o

3.00

1

. oo

3.00

3 . 0 0

1 . o o

0.70

63.05

0.50

3 . 0 0

1 . o o

0 . 3 0

5.00

0.30

Manu fac tu r i ng P rocess :

P a r t A : H ea t up t o 75C w i t h th o ro u g h a g i t a t i o n .

P a r t 8 :

add t h e Veegum u l t r a a nd t h e N a t r o s o l d u r i n g h i g h s peed a g i t a -

t i o n . Then d i s p e r s e Z i n c O xi de N e u t r a l H&R i n t h e w a t er phase.

Add P a r t B t o P a r t A w h i l e s t i r r i n g . Cool down w h i l e s t i r r i n g t o

room temperature .

P a r t

C :

emu1 s i on.

and has t o be checked .

Add Phenonip and g l y c e r i n t o th e wat e r . Hea t up t o 95C. Then

A t 30C add t h e pe r fume o i l t o P a r t A /B and homogen ize t h e

The p H- va lu e o f t h e f i n i s h e d e m u l s io n s h o u l d b e a p p r o x . 7

I n s t r u c t n

:

I n EEC c o u n t r i e s t h e u se o f m ore t h a n 0 . 5 % Benzophenone-3 i n

s u n s c r e e n p r o d u c t s i 1i b l e t o d ec la re :

conta ins Oxybenzone.

SOURCE:

Haarman

8

Reimer: Formula K 18/1-21287/E

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 460/553

438

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Sunscreen Lotion (O/W)

Tested

SPF

16

I n a r e d i e n t s :

A r l a c e l 165

Eumulgin 82

L a n e t t e 0

M y r i t o l

318

C e t i o l

OE

A b i l

100

Bentone Gel

M I 0

Neo He1i pan, Type

AV

Neo He l io pa n, Type

E 1000

C u t i n a CBS

Demi n e r a l i ed wate r

G l y c e r i n

86%

Phenoni p

Neo He l i op an , Type Hydro; used as a

n e u t r a l i z e d w i t h sodium h y d r o xi d e

Veegum u l t r a

N a t r o s o l 250 HHR

Z i n c O x id e n e u t r a l H&R

%(w/w)

3 . 0 0

. o o

1 . o o

4.00

5.00

O O

3,OO

4.00

4.00

1

. o o

49.60

3.00

0.50

15%

s o l u t i o n

13.30

.oo

0.30

5.00

( a c t i v e :

2.00 )

Perfume o i l

0 . 3 0

Manu fac tu r i ng P rocess :

P a r t

A :

Heat up t o 75C w i t h t ho ro ug h a g i t a t i o n .

P a r t 8 :

s o l u t i o n t o t h e w a t e r . H ea t u p t o 95C. Add Veegum u l t r a an d

N a t r o s o l d u r i n g h i g h speed a g i t a t i o n . Then add Z i n c O x id e

n e u t r a l H&R and d i sp er se . Add Pa r t B w h i l e s t i r r i n g t o P a r t A

C on ti nu e s t i r r i n g t o toom t em pe ra tu re .

P a r t C :

emu l s i on .

7 . 5 and has t o be checked .

SOURCE: Haarman

&

Reimer : Formu la t i on K 18/1-21284/E

Add Phenonip, g l y c e r i n and t h e Ne0 Hel iop an, Type Hydro

A t 30C add t h e perfume o i l t o P a r t A / B and homogenize the

The pH-value o f t h e f i n i s h e d e m u ls i on s h o u l d be a pp ro x.

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 461/553

Sun

Care

Products

439

Sunscreen Lotion (w/o)

SPF 6 (FDA-OTC), waterproof*

I n q r e d i e n t s :

A A b i l

EM

90

T eg i n T 4753

C e t i o l

S

P a r a f f i n o i l ( 34 mPas)

% ( w / w )

2,000

1,000

l7;OOO

8,500

B Demi n e r a l i ed wa te r 58,450

Neo He l io pa n, Type Hydro used as a 30% aq s o l u t i o n

10,000

n e u t r a l

i

ed w i t h t r i e t h a n o l a m i n e c o r re s p on d in g 3%

a c t i v e Neo He l i op an , Type Hydro

1

, 2 -P ropy l ene g l y c o l 2 ,000

T r i et ha no l ami ne 0,350

Phenoni p 0,400

C

Perfume

O i l

0,300

*Sun P r o t e c t i o n F a c t o r :

Teste d mean SPF va lu e b e f o r e swim 6.32 and a f t e r swim 5.7 6

on a f i v e su b j e c t pane l a cco rd i n g t o t h e FDA-OTC p roposed

method.

M a n u f a c t u r i n g P ro c es s:

P a r t A : Heat t o 70C.

P a r t

B:

D i s s o l v e t h e i n g r e d i e n t s i n t h e w a t e r. The pH v a l u e o f t h e

w a te r phase p a r t B sh ou ld be 7 .5 and mus t be c o n t r o l l e d . Now

a d d p a r t

B

w h i le s l o w l y s t i r r i n g t o p a r t

A

w i t h i n a t i m e o f 3-5

m i nu t e s ( h o t / c o l d p r o c e d ur e ).

P a r t

C :

e m u ls i on t h r o u g h a h om og en is er ( c o l l o i d m i l l ) .

SOURCE:

Haarrnan

&

Rei rner : Formu la t i on

K 1 8 / 1 - 5 1 5 6 6

A / E

C o nt in u e s t i r r i n g , a t 30C a dd t h e f r a g r a n c e . Then pa ss t h e

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 462/553

440

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Sunscreen Lotion (W/O)

Tested

SPF 11

I n n r e d i e n t s :

A Dehymuls HRE 7

Lameform TGI

Pemul g i n 3220

I s o p r o p y l i s o s t e a r a t e

C e t i o l

OE

B a ys i lo n e F l u i d M 10

V i t a m i n

E

A c e t a t e

Neo He l i op an , Type AV

Neo Hel iopan, Type E 1000

Neo He1

i

pan, Type MBC

Neo H e li op an , Type BB

B

Demi n e r a l

i

ed wate r

G l y c e r i n

86%

Phenoni p

Z i nc Ox i de n e u t r a l H&R

C Perfume o i l

%(w/w)

4 . 0 0

4 .00

1 . so

8.00

7 .50

1 . o o

0 . 5 0

4.00

4 . 0 0

1 . 0 0

1

. so

54.10

3.00

0.50

5 . 0 0

0.40

Manu fac tu r i ng P rocess :

P a r t A : H ea t up t o 75C w i t h t ho r o ug h a g i t a t i o n .

P a r t B :

and d i s p e r s e t h e Z i n c O x id e n e u t r a l H&R. Add P a r t B t o p a r t

s l o w ly w h i l e s t i r r i n g . C on tin ue s t i r r i n g t o room t em pe ra tu re .

P a r t

C :

emu l s i on .

Heat up t o 9OC ( w i t ho u t t h e Z i nc Ox ide n eu t r a l H&R). Then add

A t 40C add t h e pe rfu me o i l t o p a r t A / B and homogenize the

I n s t r u c t i on :

s un sc re en p r o d u c t s i s l i a b l e t o d e c l a r e : c o n t a i n s O xybenzone.

SOURCE: Haarman & R e i mer : F o rmu l a t i on K 18/1-51835/E

I n EEC c o u n t r i e s t h e u s e

o f

more th a n 0.5% Benzophenone-3 i n

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 463/553

Sun

Care

Products

441

Sunscreen Moisturizing Cream

T h is f o r m ul a dem onstra tes t h e s t a b i l i z i n g p r o p e r t i e s o f

S i l i c o n y l B eeswax. I n c o rp o r a t e d i n t o t h i s f or m ul a i s t h e sun-

screen Neo Hel iopan AV ( O c t y l m et ho xy ci nn am at e) g i v i n g t h i s

fo rmu la an app ro pr ia te SPF va lu e . The cream has h i g h g l os s

and e x c e l l e n t s k i n f e e l .

O i l Phase:

Cera B e l l i n a (Pg-3 Beeswax, Ko st er Keunen) 6.0%

E l e fac I

05

( B e r n e l )

1.4%

Gl yc e ro l Monos tea ra te (H enke l)

1.4

I sop ropy l P a l m i t a te (U n i chema)

2.0%

Ceres ine

130/135

(Koster Keunen)

1.3%

Propy l Paraben (Su t ton)

0.2%

Squalane (Centerchem)

1.8%

J o jo b a o i l ( J o j o b a Grow ers) 1 .O

L i q u a p a r ( S u t t o n )

0.4%

Neo Hel iopan

AV

(H&R)

5.0%

V i t a m i n E (BASF) 1 .O

O c t y l P a l m i t a t e ( I n o l e x ) 2.5%

Shea But ter (Koster Keunen) 2 5%

I s o s t e a r i c a c i d ( Un ich em a) 3 .O

L ipopeg 1 0 0 - S ( L i p o ) 1.5%

S i l i c o n y l Beeswax (Ko s te r Keunen)

3 . 0 %

Em ul s i fy in g Beeswax (K os te r Keunen)

1.7%

Hex ane dio l Behenyl Beeswax (K o s te r Keunen) 1

.O

Gamma Orz an ol ( K o s t e r Keunen) 1 .O

Water Phase:

Water ( D i s t i 1 e d )

44.3%

B u ty l ene G l yco l (H oechst ) 3.0%

Sodium Borate (Borax) 0.8

Methy l Paraben (S u t ton )

0.3%

Aloe Vera Gel

1:l

( A c t i v e O r g a n i c s )

3.0%

G l y c e r i n 99%

4.0%

K e l t r o l TF ( Ke l co ) 0 .3

Water Phase 11:

T EA 99% (Dow) .O

A c t i ve P hase :

S i l i c o n e

245

(Dow)

1.0%

Phenoni p (N i pa) 0.5%

Procedure:

e n t i r e p hase i s s o l u b i l i z e d . M e l t and m ix t h e o i l phase t o 8 2 C

i s m ai nt ai ne d. A t t h e l a s t m i n u t e added t h e gamma o r za n o l t o

t h e o i l phase, a l l o w t o d i sp e r se t h e n s l o w l y add t h e o i l phase

t o t h e w at er phase w h i l e m i x i n g. A l l o w t o co o l t o

45C

and add

t h e s i l i c o n e and t h e p he n on ip . Cool t o room t e m pe r at u re .

A d a p t a t i o n

o f

f or mu la and i t s i n f l u e n c e on t h e p r o du c t :

I t i s easy t o a l t e r t h e sunsc reen t o s u i t y ou r p re fe re nc e ,

w i t h ou t chang i ng t h e con s i s t enc y The emu1 s i on v i s co si t y can

e a s i l y b e a l t e r e d b y c ha ng in g t h e o i l a nd /o r wax c o n c e n t r a t i o n .

Orange Wax (K os te r Keunen) can be added t o n a t u r a l l y enhance t h e

SPF.

SOURCE: Kos te r Keunen, I n c . : Suggested Form u la t i on s

D .

I.

Water

5.0%

He at t h e wa t e r p ha se t o

8OC

under a g i t a t i o n e n su r i ng t h a t t h e

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 464/553

442 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Tanning Accelerator

P a r t A :

Water

Carbomer

934

P a r t 0 :

Rosswax 1824

Rosswax 2540

Ross Jojoba

O i l

' E sca l o l

507

Coconut

O i l

#76

Uni pe r t an P-24

P a r t C :

Germaben

I 1

P a r t D:

F rag rance

P a r t E :

T r i

et ha no l ami ne

GMS-SE

Pa r t s by Wei qh t

5 0 0 . 0

2 . 0

15 .0

6 . 0

6 . 0

4 . 0

1 2 . 0

25 .0

3 . 0

6 . 0

q . s .

4 . 5

Procedure:

934 u n t i l f u l l y d is p er se d u nder a g i t a t i o n . I n a se p ar at e steam

j ac ke te d k e t t l e m e l t t h e

O i l

Phase . When f u l l y me l te d , add t h e

O i l Phase t o t h e Wa te r Phase unde r ag i t a t i o n . Then add t h e

Germaben

1 1 ,

t h e n t h e f r a g r a n c e and f i n a l l y add t h e TEA w i t h

h i g h a g i t a t i o n u n t i l smooth. C oo l t o 130F and p ac ka ge .

I n a ste am j a c k e t e d k e t t l e h e a t t h e w a t e r and add t h e Carbomer

Sun Screen Stick

I n g r e d i e n t s :

Ross White Bleached Beeswax

Ross Pure Ref ine d C a n d e l i l l a Wax

Ross Pure # 1 Yellow Carnauba Wax

P e t r o l a t u m

IM

M i n e r a l

O i l

60/70

Ross Jojoba

O i

1

Amerscreen P

2 0 . 0

16.1

4.0

1 6 . 1

1 0 . 0

32 .6

1 . 2

9 . S .

Procedure:

a g i t a t i o n . When f u l l y m ix ed c o o l t o 1 45F and p ac ka ge . ( N o t e :

Capping may be ne ce ss ar y) .

SOURCE:

F rank

0 .

R o s s

Co.,

I n c . : S ug ge st ed F o r m u l a t i o n s

Heat a l l i n g r e d i e n t s i n a steam j a c k e t e d k e t t l e t o 170F un de r

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 465/553

Sun

Care

Products

443

Titanium Dioxide Based Waterproof Sunscreen

SPF 12 (Tested)

D er ma cr yl 79 p r o v i d e s w a t e r r e s i s t a n c e , i n c r e a s e d m o i s t u r e

p r o t e c t i o n and r u b - o f f r e s i s t a n c e .

Incared ien ts :

Phase A :

Ceraphy l I C A

F i n s o l v TN

Emersol 132

M y r j 52s

Abi l 88852

C e t y l A l c o h o l

Cerasynt SD

Armeen

DM

18D

Dermacry l -79

T i o v e i l

F I N

Phase 8 :

De io ni zed Water

Carbomer 941 (2% Aq. Soln)

Methy lparaben

P ropy l pa raben

T r i e thano l am i ne (99% )

Phase C:

Germal l I I

Phase D:

Fragrance

%

w /w

7 . 0 0

2.00

2 .00

2.00

1

. o o

1

.OD

0 . 5 0

2 .0 0

2 .0 0

10.00

59.30

10.00

0.15

0.10

0.80

0.15

Q.S.

Procedure:

Combine Phase B and hea t t o 8OC. I n a sepa ra t e vesse l combine

Phase

A

excep t f o r D e rmac ryl - 79 and T i t a n i um D i o x i de and hea t

t o 8OC. S lo wl y s i f t i n Dermacry l -79 w i t h c on st an t s t i r r i n g u n t i l

c o m pl e te l y d i s s o lv e d . Add T i t a n iu m D io x i d e w i t h c o n st a nt s t i r r i n g

u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y d i s p e r s e d . Add Phase A t o Phase B a t 8OC and

m ix f o r

30

mi nu te s. Cool t o 40C and add Phase C and Phase D,

homogenize, co o l t o room tem per atu re and package.

SOURCE:

N a t i o n a l St a rc h and Chemical Co. : Formula 7023-24A

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 466/553

444 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Ult ra Vio le t Absorb ing Sunscreen

Veegum U l t r a , magnesium a lu min um s i l i c a t e , i s us ed t o

t h i c k e n and s t a b i l i z e t h i s s un scree n em ul si on . Two u l t r a

v i o l e t a b s o r b e rs a r e u s ed t o a c h i e v e an e s t i m a t e d SPF (Sun

P r o t e c t i o n F a c t o r ) o f a p p ro x im a t el y 1 5 . T h i s smooth , f l ow ab l e

l o t i o n s prea ds e a s i l y and d r i e s q u i c k l y , l e a v i n g no n- tack y

a f t e r - f e e l .

I n g r e d i e n t :

A Veegum U l t r a (Magnes ium A luminum S i l i c a t e )

Dei o ni zed Water

% bv W t .

1 . 5 0

7 0 . 5 0

G l y c e r i n 5 . 5 0

B PEG-I50 D is te a ra te

D i o c t y l Mal a t e *

M i n e r a l O i l

C e t y l A1 coho1

Benzophenone-3

Octyl Dimethyl PABA

S t e a r e t h - 2

S tea re th -20

3 .00

2 . 0 0

4 . 0 0

0 . 5 0

3 . 0 0

7 . 0 0

0 . 9 0

2 .10

C

P r e s e r v a t i v e , F r a g r a n c e 9 , s .

*Ceraphy l 45

Procedure:

Heat t h e wa te r t o

5 5 C .

S l o w l y add Veegum U l t r a t o t h e w a t e r

w h i l e s t i r r i n g w i t h a p r o p e l l e r m ix er a t 700 rpm. I nc re as e t h e

mi xe r speed t o 1500-1700 rpm and mix f o r 30 m i n u t e s , m a i n t a i n i n g

t e m p e r a tu r e a t 55C. Add g l y c e r i n a nd m i x f o r

5

minu te s . M ix B

i n g r e d i e n t s an d h e a t t o 60C. Add

B

t o

A

w h i l e m i x i n g a t 1500-

1700 r p m . C o nt in u e m i x i n g f o r 30 m i n u t e s . A v oi d a i r e nt ra pm en t.

S lo w m i x i n g s peed t o 1000 rpm an d c o n t i n u e m i x i n g w h i l e c o o l i n g

t o 35C. Add C and m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . Package.

P ro du ct C h a r a c t e r t i s t i c s :

V i

s c o s i

t y : 5 0 0 0 6 0 0 0 cps

pH : 5 .0+ -0 .2

Comments:

t h e d ev elo pm en t o f new p r o d u c t s o r t h e im provement o f e x i s t i n g

ones .

SOURCE: R.T . V a n d e r b i l t Co. , I n c . : Formula No. 4 4 8

T h i s p r o t o t y p e f o rm u l a i s des ign ed t o s e r v e as a g u i d e f o r

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 467/553

Sun Care Products

445

Un-Buffered Self Tanning Cream

R e s u l t i n g p r o d u c t i s a s o f t c ream t h a t c o u l d b e d is pe ns ed

f ro m a f l e x i b l e tu b e o r a j a r . The f o rm u l a t i o n u t i l i z e s

5%

D i hy d ro x y ac e to n e (DHA) as t h e s e l f t a n n i n g i n g r e d i e n t . The

f o r m u l a t i o n c o n t a i n s no am ines t o r e a c t w i t h D i h yd ro xy a ce to n e.

The f o r m u l a t i o n a p p l i e s e a s i l y a nd e v e n l y a nd fo r ms a m o d e r a t el y

t h i c k f i l m a l l o w i n g maximum t a n c o l o r d e ve lo p me n t. The f i n i s h e d

p r o d u c t s h o u l d be s t o r e d away f ro m l i g h t a n d a t t e m p e r a tu r e

c o n d i t i o n s b e lo w 40C t o p r e v e n t DHA f r om deg rad i ng .

A . Deion ized Water

Methy lparaben (Lexgard M)

2,4 -D i ch lo ro benzy l A l coho l (Myac ide SP)

Pro pyle ne G ly co l USP

63 .10

0 .20

0 .20

1 - 0 0

8 . H y d r ox ye thy l ce l l u l os e (C e l l o s i ze QP-15,OOOH) 0 .4 0

C .

Gl yce ry l S tea ra te (Lexemu l 515 )

6.00

Gl yc er y l S t ea ra te (and) PEG-100 S t ea ra te (Lexemul 501) 3 .00

C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e ( L e xo l GT-865) 4 . 0 0

I s o b u t y l S t e a r a t e ( L e x o l BS) 2 -00

Propy lparaben (Lexgard P ) 0 .10

D .

Dihydroxyace tone

Deion ized Water

5 .00

15.00

Procedure:

1 .

Combine sec t i on A he a t i n g t o 75-80C. Use a p r o p e l l e r m i xe r

f o r a g i t a t i o n .

2 . S p r i n k l e s e c t i o n BI1 i n t o s e c t i o n A . I n c r e a s e m i x i n g s pe ed

t o c r e a t e a v o r t e x d u r in g a d d i t i o n , t he n s lo w t o h i g h es t

speed wh ich does no t p roduce a vor tex .

3 . Combine sec t i on

C .

H ea t t o 8 0-85C w i t h c o n t i n u o u s s l o w

m i x i n g.

4. When sect ions A B and C a r e homogeneous and a t t h e d es ig -

n a t e d t e m p e r a tu r e s a dd s e c t i o n ' rC9 t t o s ec t i on s

A B .

I n c r e a s e

m i x i n g s pe ed t o a h i g h sp ee d. B e g in c o o l i n g . S lo w m i x i n g s pe ed

t o h i g h e s t speed p o s s i b l e t h a t

w i l l

n o t ca use v o r t e x i n g .

5 .

U s i ng g l oves , combi ne se c t i o n

D

and mix u n t i l c l e a r .

6 . A dd sec t i on IIDq' t o s ec t i on s

ABC

a t 35-40C. C on t i nue m i x i n g

7 .

A t 33-35C a d j u s t f o r w a t er l o s s .

8 .

M ix ba tc h u n t i l

i t

reaches 30.

P h y s i c a l P r o p e r t i e s :

V i s c o s i t y : 2 0 , 0 0 0 c P s @ 25C ( B r o o k f i e l d RVT, TA

I3

10 rpm)

pH: 5.0 @ 24C

a n d c o o l i n g .

24 hour sample

SOURCE:

I n o l e x C he mi ca l C o. : F o r m u l a t i o n

398-105-2

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 468/553

446 Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations

Waterproof Sun Protection Lotion

(with 8 Titanium Dioxide)

SPF

15

I n q r e d i e n t s : w

I s os te a r a t e (and ) H exy l Lau ra te ( A b i l WE-09) 5 . 0

O c t y l S t e a r a t e ( T e g o s o f t OS) 12.0

Cyc lometh i cone ( A b i l B 8839) 8 .0

Ce ty l D imet h i cone ( A b i l Wax 9801) 3 .0

Hydrogenated Castor O i l 0 . 5

M i c r o c r y s t a l 1i e Wax 1 . o

M i n e r a l O i l 2 . 0

Phase

:

T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e 8 . 0

Phase

C :

Water

6 0 . 0

Sodium C h l o r i d e 0 . 5

Phase

D :

F r a g r a n c e , P r e s e r v a t i v e s

Q.S.

1 . Combine t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase A . H eat t o 80C t o m e l t and

2 . Add t h e T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e . D i s p e r se and m i l l t h e p i gmen t . C oo l

3 . Mix Phase C . Heat t o 50C. Add t o Phase A/B s l ow ly w i t h l ow

4 . Cool t o 35C. Add Phase D . Homogenize.

Phase

A :

C e t y l D im e th ic o ne C o p o l y o l ( a n d ) P o l y g l y c e r y l - 4

d i sp er se t h e waxes . Coo l t o 60C.

t o 50C.

e ne rg y s t i r r e r . M a i n t a i n a m i l k y appearance a t a l l t i m e s .

W/O Sunscreen Lotion

SPF 22

I n g r e d i e n t s : w

Phase A :

C e t y l D im e th ic on e C o p o l y ol ( a nd ) P o l y g l y c e r y l - 4

Ce ty l D imet h i cone ( A b i l Wax 9801) 1 . o

O c t y l P a l m i t a t e ( T e go s o ft OP)

1

. o

O c t y l S t e a r a t e ( T e g o s o f t OS) 5 . 1

M i n e r a l O i l 1 . 5

Beeswax 1.2

Hydrogenated Castor

O i l

0 . 8

Phase :

O ct y l Methoxycinnamate 5 .0

T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e

5 .0

Cyc lometh icone (Ab i

1

B 8839) 4. 4

Phase C :

Water 69.2

Sodium C h l o r i d e 0 . 8

P r e s e r v a t i v e s Q . S .

1. Heat Phase

A

t o 85C t o m e l t and d i s p e r s e w axes.

2 . Cool Phase

A

t o

SOC.

Add B t o A s l o w l y w i t h a l o w e ne rg y

3 . R o l l e r

m i l l

t o reduce p a r t i c l e s i z e o f T i t an iu m D io x i de .

4 . Coo l t o 50C. 5 . Heat Phase C t o 50C. Add Phase C w h i l e

SOURCE: Go ld sc hmid t Chemical C orp .: Fo rm ul as BJS-1-45/GRH-2-37

I s os te a r a t e (and ) H exyl Lau r a te ( A b i l WE-09) 5 .0

m i x e r . M a i n t a i n a smooth m i l k y a pp ea ra nc e a t a l l t i m e s .

m i x i n g .

6 .

Cool t o 35C and homogenize.

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 469/553

Sun

Care

Products 447

Waterproof Sunscreen Gel (Tested SPF 30)

D e rm a cr yl LT p r o v i d e s w a t e r r e s i s t a n c e , i n c r e a s e d m o i s t u r e

p r o t e c t i o n and r u b - o f f r e s i s t a n c e as w e l l as i mp ro ve d r u b - i n

p r o p e r t i e s .

I n s r e d i e n t s :

Anhydrous Ethanol

K l u c e l MF

Dermacry l -79

F i n s o l v

TN

Dow Cor n in g 344 F l u i d

Abi l 88852

Neo Hel iopan Type AV

Neo Hel iopan Type OS

Neo H e li op an Type BB

%w/w

65.50

1

. o o

1 . o o

10.00

3 .00

1 . 0 0

7.50

5 .00

6 .00

Procedure:

D i s so l ve H yd roxyp ropy l C e l l u l o se i n SD A l co ho l 40. When

c o m p le t e, s l o w l y s i f t i n D e r ma c ry l -7 9 . Combine r e m a i n in g

i n g r e d i e n t s , t h e n add t o a l c o h o l m i x t u r e . S t i r u n t i l u n i fo rm .

Formula 7761-133

Waterproof Sunscreen Spray Mist

SPF

16

(Tes ted)

D e rm a cr yl LT p r o v i d e s w a te r r e s i s t a n c e , i n c r e a s e d m o i s t u r e

p r o t e c t i o n and r u b - o f f r e s i s t a n c e .

I n a r e d i e n t s :

Phase

A :

Anhydrous Ethanol

Deion ized Water

T r i e thano l am i ne (99% )

Dermacry l -79

Phase B:

Neo He1 io pa n

AV

Neo Heliopan BB

Neo Hel iopan MA

DC 3 4 4 F l u i d

F i n s o l v TN

V i t a m i n E A c e t a t e

Phase

C:

Fragrance

64.20

5 .00

0 .30

1

.oo

7 .5 0

3 .00

3 .50

5.00

1 0 .0 0

0.50

Q.S.

Procedure:

Combine Phase A e xc e pt D e r m ac ry l- 79 . S l o w l y s i f t i n Derma-

c r y l - 7 9 . M i x u n t i l co m p le t e . Add Phase 8 . M ix u n t i l c o mp le te .

Add Phase

C .

M i x u n t i l c o m p le t e and pa ck ag e.

Formula 7172-44

SOURCE: N a t f o n a l S t a r c h and Chemfcal Co.: Suggested Formulas

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 470/553

448 Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations

Waterproof Sunscreen

W/O

Emulsion

SPF 22 (Static)

SPF 21 (W at er pr oo f)

I n g r e d i e n t s : %w/w

Phase

A :

C e t y l D i meth i cone Copol yo1 (and) Po l yg l y ce ry l - 4

I s o s te a r a t e (and) H exyl Lau ra te ( A b i l WE-09) 4 .0

Ce ty l D imeth icone ( A b i l Wax 9801) 2 .0

Hydrogenated Cas to r O i l 0 . 5

M ic ro c r ys ta l 1 e Wax 0 .5

Benzophenone-3 2.0

Oc ty l Methoxycinnamate 3 .0

Sesame O i l 1 . o

I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e ( T e go s o ft P) 3 . 0

C yc l ome th i cone (A b i l B 8839) 4 . 0

O c t y l S t e a r a t e ( T e g o s o f t

OS)

3 . 0

O c t y l P a l m i t a t e ( T e g o s o ft OP) 2 . 5

Phase B :

Water 73.4

S od i um C h l o r i de

0 . 5

Po ly qu at er ni um-1 0 0 . 3

Germaben I 1 0 . 3

1 . Add t h e components o f Phase A . Heat w h i l e m i x i n g t o 8OC t o

i n co rp o r a t e t h e waxes. C oo l t o 50C.

2. Heat Phase B t o 50C. Add B t o A s l o w l y w i t h a l o w en er gy

m i x e r . M a i n t a i n a smooth m i l k y a pp ea ra nc e a t a l l t i m e s .

3 . Coo l t o 35C w i t h sweep mi xe r . Add f r ag ra nc e . 4 . Homogen ize.

Waterproof Sunscreen W/O-Emulsion

SPF 15

I n g r e d i e n t s :

%w/w

I s o s t e a r a te (and) H exyl Lau ra te ( A b i l WE-09) 4 .0

C et y l D ime th icone ( A b i l Wax 9801)

1

. o

Pol y e t h y l ene Wax 0. 5

Hydrogenated Cas to r O i l

0 . 5

O ct y l Methoxyc i nnamate 3 . 0

Sesame O i l 1 . o

I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e ( T e go s o ft P) 2 . 0

Cyc lometh i cone ( A b i l B 8839) 4 . 0

O c t y l S t e a r a t e ( T e g o s o f t OS) 3 .0

O c t y l P a l m i t a t e ( T e g o s o f t OP) 2 . 5

I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e ( T eg o so f t M ) 1

. o

C12-15

A 1

ky l B enzoa te

2 . 5

Phase B:

Water 73.9

S od i um C h l o r i de

0 . 5

P o l y q u a t e r n iurn-1 0 0 . 3

Germaben I 1 0 . 3

1. Add t h e components o f Phase A . Heat w h i l e m i x i n g t o 80C t o

i n co rp o r a t e t h e waxes. C oo l t o 50C.

2 . Heat Phase B t o 50C. Add 8 t o A s l o w l y w i t h a l o w e ne rg y

m i x e r . M a i n t a i n a smooth m i l k y a pp ea ra nc e a t a l l t i m e s .

3 . .C oo l t o 35C w i t h sweep mi xe r . Add f ra gra nce . 4 . Homogen ize.

SOURCE: Goldschmidt Chemical Corp. : Formulas BAM-2-l/BAM-2-15

Phase A :

C e t y l D i m et h ic o n e C o p ol y ol ( a n d) P o l y g l y c e r y l - 4

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 471/553

Sun Care Products 449

Waterproof W/O Sunscreen Lotion Base

SPF

3.5

I n a r e d i e n t s :

?&&

Phase A:

C e t y l D i m e th i co n e C o p ol y ol ( an d) P o l y g l y c e r y l - 4

I s o s t e a r a t e (a nd ) H ex yl L a u r a t e ( A b i l WE-09) 5 . 0

M i n e r a l O i l 5 . 0

O c t y l S t e a r a t e ( T e g o so f t

OS)

6 . 0

C y c l o m e t h i c o n e ( A b i l B 8839) 4.0

Ce ty l D imeth i cone ( A b i l Wax

9801)

1 . o

I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e ( T e go s o ft

M )

4.0

Hydrogenated Cas to r O i l

0 . 8

M i c r o c r y s t a l l i n e Wax

1 . 2

Phase 8:

Water

72.2

Sod ium Ch lo r ide

0 . 8

P r e s e r v a t i v e s Q . S

Phase

C:

Fragrance Q.S

Procedure:

1. Add t h e components o f Phase A . He at w h i l e m i x i n g t o 80C

2 . Heat Phase B t o 50C. Add B t o A s l o w l y w i t h a l o w en er gy

3 . Coo l t o 35C w i t h sweep mi xe r . Add f ra gr an ce .

4. Homogeni ze .

Formulat ion BJS-1-47

t o i n c o r p o r a t e t h e waxes. Cool t o

50C.

m i x e r . M a i n t a i n a smooth m i l k y ap pea ran ce a t a l l t i m e s .

Waterproof

W/O

Sunscreen Lotion Base

SPF 3.7

I n a r e d i e n t s :

Phase

A :

C e t y l D i m et h ic o n e C o p ol y ol ( a nd ) P o l y g l y c e r y l - 4

Iso-

s t e a r a t e (a nd ) H ex yl L a u r a t e ( A b i l

WE-09)

5 .0

M i n e r a l O i l 5 . 4

O c t y l S t e a r a t e ( T e g o s o f t OS ) 6 . 4

C y c l o m e t h i c o n e ( A b i l B 8839) 4.3

C et y l D imet h icone ( A b i l Wax 9801) 1 . o

I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e ( T e go so f t

M)

4 . 3

Hydrogenated Cas to r O i l 0 . 8

M i c r o c r y s t a l l i n e Wax 1 . 2

Phase

8 :

Water 70.8

S od i um C h l o r i de

0 . 8

P r e s e r v a t i v e s

Q.S

Phase

C :

Fragrance Q.S

Procedure:

1 . Add t h e components o f Phase A . Heat w h i l e m i x i ng t o 80C t o

i n co rp o r a t e t h e waxes. C oo l t o 50C.

2. Heat Phase B t o 50C. Add B t o A s l ow l y w i t h a l ow energy

mi xe r . Ma in ta in a smooth

m i

1 ky appearance a t a1 1 t i m es .

3 . Cool t o 35C w i t h sweep mix er . Add f rag rance . 4 . Homogenize.

Formulat ion BJS-1-15

SOURCE: Goldschmidt Chemica l Corp. : Suggested For mu lat i ons

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 472/553

45

Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations

Waterproof W/O Sunscreen Lotion

SPF 21

I nc ir ed i en t s :

Phase A :

C e t y l D i m e th i co n e C o p ol yo l ( a nd ) P o l y g l y c e r y l - 4

I s os te a r a t e (and ) H exyl Lau ra te ( A b i l WE-09) 5 .0

M i n e r a l O i l 5 .3

O c t y l S t e a r a t e ( T e g o s o f t OS) 4 . 2

C y c l o m e t h i c o n e ( A b i l

B 8839)

4 .2

I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e ( T eg o so f t

M)

4 . 2

Almond O i 1 2 .0

Hydrogenated Cas to r

O i l

0.8

M i c r o c r y s t a l l i n e Wax 1 . 2

Oc ty l Methoxyc innamate

3 . 0

Phase B :

Water 69.3

Sod ium Ch lo r ide

0 . 8

P r e s e r v a t i v e s

Q.S.

Phase

C :

Fragrance Q . S .

Procedure:

1 .

Add t h e components o f Phase

A .

Hea t w h i l e m i x i n g t o 8OC t o

2. Heat Phase

B

t o

50C.

Add

B

t o

A

s l o w l y w i t h a l o w en er gy

3 . Coo l t o 35C w i t h sweep mixe r . Add f ra gra nc e .

4. Homogeni ze .

i n c o r p o r a t e t h e waxes. Co ol t o

50C.

m i x e r . M a i n t a i n a smooth m i l k y ap pe ar an ce a t a l l t i m e s .

Waterproof W/O Sunscreen Lotion

SPF

15

Ing r e d i e n t

s

Phase A :

C e t y l

D i

me thi cone Copol yo1 (A bi 1

EM - 9 0 )

2 . 0

M i n e r a l

O i l 5 . 9

O c t y l S t e a r a t e ( T e g o s o f t O S ) 4 . 7

C y c l o m e t h i c o n e ( A b i l B 8839) 4 .7

Ce ty l D imeth ico ne ( A b i l Wax 9801) 1 . o

I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e ( T eg o so f t

M )

4 . 7

Almond O i 1 2.0

Hydrogenated Cas to r

O i l

0 . 8

M i c r o c r y s t a l l i n e Wax 1 . 2

Oc ty l Methoxyc innamate 3 .0

Phase B :

Water 69.2

Sod ium Ch lo r ide

0.8

P r e s e r v a t i v e s

Q.S.

Phase C :

Fragrance

Q . S .

Procedure:

1 .

Add t h e components o f Phase

A .

Heat w h i l e m i x in g t o

8OC

t o

i n c o r p o r a t e t h e w axes. C ool t o

50C.

2 . Heat Phase B t o 50C. Add B t o A s l o w l y w i t h a l o w e ne rg y

m i x e r . M a i n t a i n a smooth m i l k y ap pe ar an ce a t a l l t i m e s .

3 .

Cool t o 35C w i t h sweep mixe r . Add f ra gra nc e .

4.

Homogenize.

SOURCE:

Goldschmi d t Chemical Corp. : Formulas

BJS-1-35/BJS-1-53

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 473/553

Sun

Care

Products 451

Waterproof W/O Sun Protection Lotion

SPF 1 7

I n g r e d i e n t s :

Phase

A :

Ce ty l D imeth icone Copo lyo l ( A b i l EM-90) 2 .0

C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e ( T e go s o ft CT)

4 . 0

O c t y l P a l m i t a t e ( T e g o s o f t OP) 5 . 5

Hydrogenated Castor

O i l 0 . 4

S y n t h e t i c Wax o r Beeswax 0 . 6

C yc l ome th i cone (A b i l

B

8839) 7 . 0

Ce ty l D ime th i cone ( A b i l Wax 9801) 1 . o

Oc ty l Methoxycinnamate 5 .0

Benzophenone-3 1 . 5

M enthy l A n t h r a n i l a t e 3 . 0

Phase

B :

Water 73.9

Sodium C h l o r i de 0 . 6

P r e s e r v a t i v e s

Q . S .

Fragrance Q.S.

Procedure:

1 . Add t h e components o f Phase A . Heat w h i l e m i x i n g t o 80C t o

2. Heat Phase

6

t o 50C. Add B t o

A

s l o w l y w i t h a l o w e ne rg y

3 . Coo l t o 35C w i t h sweep mixe r . Add f r ag ra nc e .

4 . Homoaeni ze ,

i n c o r p o r a t e t h e waxes. C ool t o 50C.

m i x e r . M a i n t a i n a smooth m i l k y a pp ea ra nc e a t a l l t i m e s .

-

Waterproof Sun Protection Lotion

(with 8 Titanium Dioxide)

SPF

12

I n g r e d i e n t s : %w/w

Phase

A :

C e t y l

D i

me th i cone Copol yo1 (A bi

1

EM-90) 2.0

O c t y l S t e a r a t e ( T e g o s o f t

O S )

1 3 . 6

C yc l ome th i cone (A b i l B 8839) 9 . 1

Ce ty l D imeth icone ( A b i l Wax 9801) 3 . 0

Hydrogenated Castor

O i l 0 . 5

M i c r o c r y s t a l 1i e Wax 1 . o

M i n e r a l O i l 2 . 3

Phase B:

T i ta n iu m D i o x i d e 8 . 0

Phase

C :

Water 6 0 . 0

Sod ium Ch lo r ide

0 . 5

Phase D :

F r a g r a n c e , P r e s e r v a t i v e s Q . S .

Procedure:

1 . Combine th e i ng re d i en ts o f Phase A . H ea t t o 80C t o m e l t and

2 . Add t h e T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e . D i s p e r s e and

m i l l

t h e p i g m e n t .

3. Mix Phase

C .

Heat t o 50C. Add t o Phase

A / B

s l o w l y w i t h l ow

4 . Cool t o 35C. Add Phase

D .

Homogenize.

SOURCE:

Goldschmidt Chemica l Corp. : Formula

BJS-1-43/BJS-1-33

d i s pe rse t h e waxes . C oo l t o 60C.

Coo l t o 50C.

energy s t i r r e r . M a i n t a i n a m i l k y appearance a t a l l t i m e s .

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 474/553

452 Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations

Water Resistant Sunscreen

A

Veegum Pro

Water

B G l y c e r i n

T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e

C

Amerscreen

P

C e t y l a l c o h o l

S t e a r i c a c i d

X X X

SS4267 F l u i d

I s o p r o p y l m yr i s t a t e

Synchrowax AW1 C

Cerasyn t MN

% B y Weiqht

1

. o

8 3 . 2

1 . 5

0 . 6

4 . 0

0 . 8

2 . 0

4 . 0

2 . 0

0 . 4

0 . 5

P r e s e rv a t i v e q . s .

P rocedure :

w h i l e a g i t a t i n g a t maximum a v a i l a b l e s h ea r . M i x u n t i l smooth.

Add B t o

A

w i t h s lo w a g i t a t i o n u n t i l smooth. M a i n t a i n A/B a t

7 0 t o 75C; hea t C t o 7 0 t o 75C. Add C t o

A / B

and m ix u n t i l

c o o l .

Cons i s tenc y :

Medi um v i s c o s i

t y

1 o t i on .

Suggested Packaging: Squeeze o r pump b o t t l e s .

Comments: Veegum PRO e f f e c t i v e l y s t a b i l i z e s t h e em uls ion

Heat t h e wate r t o 70 t o 75C, the n s lo w ly add th e Veegum

PRO

even a t e le v a te d t em p er at ur es . T h i s l o t i o n , u s i n g s i l i c o n e

f l u i d t o p r o v i d e an e m o l l i e n t wa te r r e s i s t a n t p r o t e c t i v e

b a r r i e r , i m p a r t s a n o n- g re a sy f e e l . The A me rs cr ee n P a t 4%

p r o v i de s an e s t im a t e d Sun P r o t e c t i o n f a c t o r o f

8 .

SOURCE: R . T . V a n d e r b i l t C o. , I n c . : F o r m u la t io n

N o .

418

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 475/553

Sun

Care

Products 453

Water Resistant Sunscreen

R e s u l t i n g p ro d uc t i s a v i sc o us sun scree n l o t i o n

d isp ense d f r o m a f l e x i b l e t ub e o r s o f t b o t t l e . The

e x h i b i t s e x c e p t i o n a l w at er r e s i s t a n c e w hi ch i s con

Lexo rez 100. The f o rmu l a ap p l i e s ea s i l y and l eaves

f i l m on t h e s k i n . The su ns cr ee n a c t i v e i n g r e d i e n t

Methoxycinnamate . The SPF va lu e o f t h e fo rm u l a t i on

A . Deion ized Water

P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l USP

Methy lparaben (Lexgard M )

T e t rasod i um EDTA (Hamp-ene Ma4)

8 . Carbomer (C ar bo po l ETD 2055)

C .

Sodium H yd ro xi de (10% w/w)

D . Gl yc e r y l S te a r a t e (Lexemu l 515)

which can be

f o r m u l a t i o n

r i

bu ted by

a non-greasy

s O c t y l

i s unknown.

&&

71 .45

7 . 5 0

0 .20

0 . 0 5

0 . 1 5

OS

G ly ce ry l S t ea ra te (and) PEG-100 S t ea ra te (Lexemul 561)

C e t y l A l c o h o l NF

Aluminum S ta rch O c te ny l suc c ina te (Dry F lo -PC)

C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e ( L e xo l GT-865)

I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e (a nd ) I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e

Tocopherol (Copherol F-1300)

Propy lparaben (Lexgard P )

Oc ty l Methoxyci nnamate (E sc a l o l 557)

G l y c e r i n / D i e t h y l e n e G l y c o l / A d i p a t e C ro ss po ly me r

( a nd ) I s o p r o p y l S t e a r a t e ( L e x o l 3 9 75 )

(Lexorez 100)

4.00

1 - 0 0

0 .50

1 - 0 0

3.00

1 - 0 0

0 . 0 5

0 . 1 0

8 . 0 0

2 *

00

Procedure:

1 . Combine a l l i n g r e d i e n t s i n phase A and he at t o 75-8OC.

A g i t a t e a t l o w sp ee d.

2 . Slowly add phase B t o phase

A .

A g i t a t e a t a h i g h e r speed

u n t i l a l l Carbomer i s f u l l y d i sp er se d.

3. Combine phase D i n a s e p a r a t e v e s s e l and h e a t t o 80-85C.

Add phase "0"

t o

phase "AB". M i x f o r f i v e mi nu te s and s t a r t

t o c o o l .

4 .

A t 45C a d j u s t f o r w a te r l o s s . M i x u n t i l homogeneous. Then

a d j u s t f o r v i s c o s i t y u s i ng 10% NaOH (9,50 0t-50 0 cps u s i n g

s p i n d l e # 6 @ 50rpm, 25C). The f i n a l p ro duc t has a pH o f

a p p r o x i m a t e l y

6 .0 .

SOURCE: I n o l e x C hemical C o . : F o r m u l a t i o n 383-208

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 476/553

454

Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations

W O SPF15 Sunscreen with Ajidew and Eldew

I n g r ed ie n t s / T r ad e Name: %_by Weigh t

P a r t A :

D i

-

( Ch ol e s t e r y l

,

beheny l

,

o c t y l d o d e c y l )

N-La uroy l -L -g lu ta mic a c i d es te r /E ldew CL-301

Oct y ld ode cy l Neopentanoa te /E le fac 1 -205

D i m e t h i c o n e ( a n d ) T r i m e t h y ls i o x y s i 1 c at e /D o w C o r n i n g 593

P ropy l pa raben

Methy lparaben

Ph e n o x y e th a n o l /Eme re s s e n c e 1160

Benzophenone-3/Uvinul M-40

Octy l Methoxyc innamate /Parso l MCX

P a r t 8 :

P o l y g l y c e r y l - 4 I s o s t e a r a t e ( a n d ) C e t y l D i m e t h i c o n e

P a r t

C :

Deion ized Water

Sod ium Ch lo r ide

Sodi urn P C A / A j ew N-50

P a r t i a l l y D e a c e t yl a t e d C h i t i n ( 1 O %) /M ar in e Dew

P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l

Copol yo1 (a nd ) Hex yl La ur at e/ Ab i 1 WE09

2 .00

10.00

0 .50

0.05

0.15

0 . 6 0

4.00

7 . 5 0

5 0 0

61.40

0 . 8 0

1 . o o

2.00

5 . 0 0

Procedure

:

P r e - m e l t p a r t A a t

50

d eg re es C e n t i g r a d e. Add p a r t B t o p a r t A .

P r e m i x p a r t

C

u n t i l homogeneous. S l ow l y add p a r t

C

i n t o p a r t

A

and B m i x t u r e w i t h h i g h s h ea r m i x i n g .

Appearance: Wh i te , smooth, sh in y l o t i o n . pH: 6 .0 -6 . 5

V i s c o s i t y : 10,000-20,000 (RVT#6

I3

lOrpm @ 25 degrees C)

Sunscreen Lip Balm with Eldew

I ng red ien t /T rade Name: % by Weiqht

P a r t

A :

Carnauba/Carnauba Wax #1 Yellow

4 . 0 0

Ozok er i te /O zo ke r i t e Wax JH1680 4.00

Propy lparaben 0 .15

Cholesteryl/Behenyl/Octyldodecyl Lauroy l G lu tamate /

P a r t B :

C as to r O i l 26.55

PPG-3 Hydrogenated Cas tor Oi l / H e t e s t e r

HCP

15.00

G l y c e ry l T r i a c e t y l

H y d r o x y s t e a r a t e / H e t e s t e r

HCA 15.00

Octy l Methoxyc innamate /Parso l MCX 7 .50

Benzophenone-3/Uvinul

M-40 5 .00

T ocophe ry l A ce ta te /V i t am i n E A c e t a t e 0 . 6 0

P a r t C :

Procedure:

a l l s o l i d s a r e c o m pl e te l y d i s s o l v e d . Add P a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s .

M ix u n t i l u n i f o r m . Co ol t o 65 d eg re es C e n t i g r a d e . Add P a r t C .

M ix w e l l . F i l l .

SOURCE:

Ajinornoto USA, I n c . : S ug ge st ed F o r m u l a t i o n s

S y n t h e t i c Beesw ax/Syn thet ic Beeswax JH-1508 10.00

Eldew CL-301 10 .0 0

O c t y l S a l

i

y1a t e / U vi n u l

0-1 8 2 . 0 0

B i s a b o l o l ( S y n t h e t i c ) 0 .2 0

H ea t P a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s t o 80 deg ree s C en t ig r a de . M ix u n t i l

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 477/553

Sun Care Products 455

W/O SPF 15 Sunscreen wi th Aj idew and Eldew

I n a r ed i en t s /T ra de Name: % by W e i a

P a r t A :

O i ( C h o l e s t e r y l , b e he n yl , o c t y l d e d e c y l ) N -L a ur oy l - L -

Oc t y ldo dec y l Neopentanoa te /E le fac 1 -205

Oimethicone(and)Trimethylsiloxysilicate/Qow

C o r n i n g

593

Propy lparaben

Methy lparaben

Phenoxyethano l /Emeressence

1

160

Benzophenone-3/Uvinul M-40

Octy l Methoxyc innamate /Parso l

MCX

P ar t B :

P o l y g l y c e r y l - 4 I s o s t e a r a t e ( an d) C e t y l O im et hi co ne

g l u tam i c a c i d es te r / E l dew CL-301

Cop oly o l (and) Hexy l L au ra te /A bi l WE09

P a r t C :

Deion ized Water

Sod ium Ch lo r ide

Sodium PCA/Ajidew N-50

P a r t i a l l y Q e a c e t y l a t e d C h i t i n ( 1 . O% )/M ar in e Dew

Pr op yl ene G1 y c o l

Procedure:

2 .00

10.00

0 . 5 0

0.05

0 . 1 5

0.60

4.00

7 . 5 0

5 .00

61.40

0 . 8 0

1 . o o

2 .00

5 .00

P r e - m e l t p a r t A a t 50 degrees C en t i g rad e . Add p a r t B t o p a r t

A . P r e m i x p a r t C u n t i l homogeneous. S l ow l y add p a r t C i n t o p a r t

A

and

B

m i x t u r e w i t h h i g h s h ea r m i x i n g .

Appearance: Wh i te , smooth, sh i ny l o t i o n pH: 6 .0 -6 . 5

V iscos i t y : 10 ,000-20 ,000 (RVT #6 @

10

rpm

@

25 degrees

C )

Procedure:

a l l s o l i d s a r e co m p le t el y d i s s o l v e d . Add P a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s .

M ix u n t i l u n i f o r m . Co ol t o 65 de gr ee s C e n t i g r a d e . Add P a r t

C .

M ix w e l l . F i l l .

SOURCE:

Aj inomoto USA,

I n c . : S ug ge st ed F o r m u l a t i o n

Heat Par t A i n g r e d i e n t s t o 80 d eg re es Ce n t i g ra d e . M ix u n t i l

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 478/553

  56

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

W/O

Sunscreen Lotion

SPF-18

I n s r e d i e n t s : %w/w

Phase A :

C e t y l D im e th ic on e C o p o l y ol ( a n d ) P o l y g l y c e r y l - 4

I s os te a r a t e (and ) H exy l Lau r a te ( A b i l WE-09) 5 . 0

Ce ty l D imeth icone ( A b i l Wax 9801) 1 . o

O c t y l P a l m i t a t e ( T e g o s o f t OP) 4 . 5

Cyc lometh icone ( A b i l B 8 8 3 9 ) 5 . 5

C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e s ( T e go s o ft CT) 3 .0

Hydrogenated Castor O i l 0 . 4

S y n t h e t i c Wax 0 . 6

Oc ty l Methoxyc innamate 5 . 0

M en th yl A n t h r a n i l a t e 3 . 0

Phase B :

Water 69 .7

Sodium C h l o r i d e 0 . 8

P r e s e r v a t i es Q S

Procedure:

1 .

Add t h e components o f Phase A . Heat w h i l e m i x i n g t o 85C t o

i n c o r p o r a t e t h e waxes. C oo l t o 50C.

2 . Heat Phase

B

t o 50C. Add B t o A s l o w l y w i t h a l o w e ne rg y

m i x e r , M a i n t a i n a smooth m i l k y a pp ea ra nc e a t a l l t i m e s .

3 . Cool t o 35C w i t h sweep mi xe r . Add f r ag ra nc e . 4 . Homogen ize.

Formula GRH-2-31

Benzophenone-3

1 . 5

W/O Suns creen L ot ion

SPF-17

I n s r e d i e n t s :

%w/w

Phase A :

C e t y l D i meth i cone Copo l yo1 (and) Po l y g l yc er y l -4 -

I s os te a r a t e (and ) H exy l Lau ra te ( A b i l WE-09) 5 . 0

Ce ty l D imeth icone ( A b i l Wax 9814) 3 . 0

O c t y l S t e a r a t e ( T e g o s o f t

O S )

1 2 . 0

C y c l o m e t h i c o n e ( A b i l 8 8839) 8 .0

M i n e r a l

O i l

2 . 0

Hydrogenated Castor O i l

0 . 5

M i c r o c r y s t a l l i n e Wax 1 . o

Phase

B :

T i an ; um D i o x i d e 8 . 0

Phase C :

Water 59.7

Sodium C h l o r i d e 0 . 8

P r e s e r v a t i v e s Q . S

Procedure:

1 . Heat Phase

A

t o 85C t o m e l t and d i s p e r s e w axes.

2 . Cool Phase A t o 50C. Add 8 t o A s l o w l y w i t h a l o w en er gy

3 . R o l l e r m i l l t o reduce p a r t i c l e s i z e o f T i ta n iu m D io x id e .

4 . C oo l t o 50C.

5. Heat Phase

C

t o 50C. Add Phase

C

w h i l e m i x i n g .

6 . Cool t o 35C and homogenize.

Formula GRH-2-33

SOURCE: Goldschmid t Chemical C orp . : Sugges ted For mu l a t i o ns

m i x e r , M a i n t a i n a smooth m i l k y a pp ea ra nc e a t a l l t i m e s .

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 479/553

Section XII

Miscel laneous

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 480/553

458

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Formula :

1 -Men thol

SDA

39C

Tween 60

A l o e M o i s t

Aloe Medicated Gel

With Alcohol

SDA

39C)

6 . 0 0

8 .00

3.00

83.00

Per 20009

120.00

160.00

60.00

1660.00

Procedure ( Wi th a l c o h o l , SDA

39C):

1 . Add A lo e M o is t t o l a r g e be ak er . F i t w i t h s t i r r e r .

2 . I n a s e p a ra t e c o n t a i n e r , m i x t h e m e n t h o l , a l c o h o l and Tween

3 . W i t h s low -medium a g i t a t i o n a dd t h e m i x t u r e t o t h e Al o e M o i s t

4. S t i r u n t i l a m i l k y wh i t e a nd homogeneous.

5 . F i l l i n t o HDPE j a r s .

and s t i r u n t i l c l e a r .

Aloe Medicated Gel

Without Alcohol

Formula :

1

-Menthol

Tween 60

A l o e M o i s t

3% Ca rb op ol 940

TEA

FDC

Ye l lo w 5, 1%

FDC B lu e 1 , 1%

3.00

12.00

79.70

5 .00

0.30

q s

q s

Per 759

2.259

9 .

oog

59.789

3.759

0 .2259

2

drops

2

drops

P r oc e du r e ( W i t h o u t a l c o h o l ) :

1 .

Mi x 1-mentho l and Tween 60 to g et h er and hea t t o about 45C.

2 .

Hea t A l o e M o i s t t o 55-58C - add c o l o r s .

3 .

Add t h e menthol/Tween m ix t o t h e A l o e M o is t w i t h s t i r r i n g .

4 .

Add t h e 3% Carbopo l 940 and mix w e l l .

5 . Add t h e TEA and mix w e l l ,

6 . C oo l t o room temp w i t h s lo w a g i t a t i o n .

SOURCE:

T e r r y L a b o r a t o r i e s , I n c , : S u gge sted F o r m u l a t i o n s

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 481/553

Miscellaneous

459

Cetylpyridinium Chloride Mouthwash

I n a r e d i e n t s :

A C e t y l p y r i d i n i u m c h l o r i d e , NF

C i t r i c A c id ,

USP

Pepperm in t o i 1 ,

USP

Euca lyp tus o i 1 , NF

C lo ve o i l , USP

Tween

60

A l c o h o l , USP

B *Co lo r

Sorbo, S o r b i t o l s o l u t i o n ,

USP

Wa t e r , d e i o n i z e d

0.10

0.10

0 . 0 7

0 . 0 2

0.05

0 .30

1 0 . 0 0

20 .00

69 .36

* q . s .

t he se i n g r e d i e n t s .

Procedure :

D i s so lv e t h e c e t y l p y r i d i n i u m c h l o r i d e and c i t r i c a c i d i n

w a t er . Add t h e p ep pe rm in t o i l , e u ca l yp t us o i l a nd c l o v e o i l

t o t h e Tween 20 . Add t h e a l c o h o l s l o w l y w i t h a g i t a t i o n a nd add

t h e w a t er m i x t u r e . Add t h e S or bo , w a t e r and c o l o r t o make t h e

d e s i r e d v o l u m e .

Spearmint Mouthwash

I n n r e d i e n t s :

A Tween 60, p o l y s o rb a t e 6 0

Spearmi n t f 1a v o r o i 1

6

A r l a s o l v e

DM I

Ethano l (190 p r o o f )

Sodi um s a c c h a r i n USP

Sodi um b en z oa te

C Water

0 .32

0 . 2 4

10.00

1 0 . 0 0

69.14

0.10

0.20

D S orb o, 70% s o r b i t o l s o l u t i o n 10.00

Procedure :

w e l l . A d d

( D )

t o

( C ) ,

m i x w e l l . Add

(CD)

t o (AB) and m ix w e l l .

Formula

PC

8207

SOURCE: IC1

Su r f a c t a n t s : Sug ge st ed Fo rm u l a t i o n s

M i x ( A) w e l l . M i x (B ) w e l l . Add (B ) t o ( A ) , m ix w e l l . M i x

C )

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 482/553

46 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Clear

Gel

without DEA

p ro du ce a m ic r oe m u ls i on g e l w hi ch e x h i b i t s c l a r i t y and p os se ss es

a manageable s e t p o i n t ( 80 C) , u s i n g p o t a s s i u m h y d r o x i d e i n p l a c e

o f

t h e

DEA.

Lower e t h o x y l a t e s l i k e t h e Vol po s a nd Cro d a fo s e s us ed

h e re a r e t h e e m u l s i f i e r s o f c h o ic e f o r c l e a r g e l f o r m u la t io n s ,

s i n ce l e s s e t h o x y l a t e d m a t e r i a1

s

have been shown t o cause l e s s

i r r i t a t i o n . The p ow er fu l e m u l s i f y i n g p r o p e r t i e s o f t he se e s t e rs

y i e l d an e xt r em el y e f f i c i e n t system i n wh ich a 1 : l r a t i o o f

e m u 1 s i f i e r : o i l c o n c e n t r a t i o n i s a ch ie ve d - a b a l a n c e t h a t m i ni m -

i z e s i r r i t a t i o n p o t e n t i a l and o p t i m i ze s g el f o r m at io n .

I n n r e d i e n t s :

P a r t A :

Dei on i zed Water 52.6

P r o p y l en e G l y c o l 1 2 . 0

P a r t 8 :

Volpo

3

( O l e t h - 3 ) 7 . 0

Vo l po 5 (O l e t h -5 ) 4 .0

Crod afos N3A (O le th -3 Phosphate)

2.0

Crodafos

N l O A

(O le th -10 Phospha te ) 4 . 0

M i n e r a l

O i l

(7Ossu) 17.0

P a r t

C:

KOH

(25% Aq. S o ln . ) 1 .4

Procedure :

Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t

B

w i t h m i x i n g and h e a t t o 9 0-95C.

Add Part

C

t o P ar t

A

w i t h m i x i n g . Add P a r t

A /C

t o P a r t 0 w i t h

m i x i n g u s i n g a p r o p e l l e r b l a d e m i x e r . A v o id a e r a t i o n a s much a s

p o s s i b l e . Cool t o d e s i r e d

f i

11 t e m p e r a tu r e , c o o l i n g a t a

PC/mi

n

r a t e . S et p o i n t a p p r o x i m a t e l y 80C.

Formula CG-25

T h i s f o rm u la c o n t a i n s no d ie th a no la m in e , y e t i s a b l e t o

Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g a nd h e a t t o 90-Q 5C.

E m u 1 si f i e r : O i l R a t i o : 1 : l

Set Po in t : 80C

Silicone Emulsion

Th i s p ro d u c t u es e I n c ro q u a t Be he ny l

TMS

t o fo rm a s t a b le

e m ul si on ( 1 month 50C), s p e c i f i c a l l y w i t h F l u i d

200 (200

c s )

b u t a l s o s u i t a b l e f o r o t h e r s i l i c o n e f l u i d s , f o r V o l a t i l e

S i

1i

one and d i me th i cone

I n a r e d i e n t s :

P a r t A :

Dei on i zed Water 72.0

Inc roqua t Beheny l TMS (Behen t r imon iu rn Me thosu l fa te

( a nd ) C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l ) 7 . 0

S i 1 one F1 u i d (2OOcps) 20.0

P a r t 0 :

Germaben

I1

1

. o

Procedure :

Cool

t o

40C w i t h m i x i n g and add Pa r t

B.

Cool w i t h m i x i n g t o

d e s i r e d

f i

11 tempera tu re .

Formula SC-231

SOURCE:

Croda In c . : Suggested Formu la t i ons

Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t

A

w i t h m i x i n g and h e a t t o 80-85C.

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 483/553

Miscellaneous 461

Clear Ringing Gel

I n a r e d i e n t s :

A

M i n e r a l o i 1 , C a r n a t i o n b r a n d

B r i j 93

A r l

as o l ve 200L

B

P r o p y l e n e g l y c o l

Sorbo

Wate r , de ion i zed

11 . o o

6 .0 0

27.80

5 .0 0

7 . 0 0

43.20

Procedure :

m od era te s t i r r i n g . Remove f r om h ea t a nd c o n t i n u e t o s t i r as

t h e m i x t u r e c o o l s . When t h e m i x t u r e t u r n s c l e a r ( a b ou t 65C)

pour i n t o tu be s o r j a r s .

Heat (A ) t o 9OC and

E )

t o 95C. Add 6 ) t o ( A) w i t h

Clear Ringing Gel

I n a r e d i e n t s :

A

Ar l a m o l

E

M i n e r a l o i 1 , C a r n a t io n b r a nd

Br i j

93

A r l a s o l v e 2 0 0 L

B

P r o p y l e n e g l y c o l

Sorbo

Wate r , de ion i zed

5.00

6 .00

6.00

27.80

5 . 0 0

7.00

43.20

Procedure :

Heat (A ) t o 9OC and

6 )

t o 95C. Add

6 )

t o ( A) w i t h m o de ra te

s t i r r i n g . Remove f ro m he at and c o n t i nu e t o s t i r as t h e m i x t u r e

c o o l s . When t h e m i x t u r e t u r n s c l e a r ( a b ou t 65C) p o u r i n t o t u b e s

o r j a r s .

Formula PC

8180

Clear Gel Base

I n a r e d i e n t s :

A r l

a s o l v e

DM I

H y ro x yp ro p yl c e l l u l ose

W W

96,OO

4.00

Procedure :

S lo w ly s p r i n k l e t h e h yd ro xy pr op yl c e l l u l o s e i n t h e A r l a s o l v e

DM I

as you r a p i d l y a g i t a t e . S t i r u n t i l c l e a r .

A

g e l w i l l f o r m

upon s t a n d i n g . Gel s t r e n g t h v a r i e s w i t h t h i c k e n e r c o n c e n t r a t i o n

A c t i v e i n g r e d i e n t s s ho ul d be d i s s o lv e d i n A r la s o l v e

DM I

p r i o r

t o

a d d i t i o n o f h yd ro xy pr op y l c e l l u l o s e .

SOURCE: IC1

S u r f a c t a n t s : S ug ge sted F o r m u l a t i o n s

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 484/553

462 Cosm etic and Toile@ Formulations

Cream Sachet

I n a r e d i e n t s :

A A r l a c e l 165

Spermacet i

C e t y l a l c o h o l

I s o p r op y l m y r i s t a t e

Wate r, de i on i zed

* P r e s e r v a t i v e

0

A t l a s

G - 2 1 6 2

C Fragrance

q . s .

t h e s e i n g r e d i e n t s

w/w

1 6 . 0 0

5 . 0 0

5 . 0 0

3 . 0 0

2 . 0 0

59.00

10 . 00

Procedure :

m o de ra t e b u t t h o ro u g h a g i t a t i o n . Add (C ) a t 45C.

S t i r

u n t i l

room te mp er at ur e and package.

Heat (A) t o 75C. Heat

( € 3 )

t o 77C. Add ( B ) t o ( A ) s l ow l y w i t h

Liquid Cologne

I n g r e d i e n t s :

Perfume o i l

Tween 2 0

Water

* P r e s e r v a t i v e

* q .

s

t h e s e n g r e d i e n t s

w/w

5 . 0 0

21 . 5 0

73,50

Procedure :

t h e w a t er a nd add p r e s e r v a t i v e .

S t i r

u n t i l a c l e a r p r od uc t

r e s u l t s .

M ix t h e pe r fume o i l and Tween

2 0 .

S lo w ly add t h i s m i x t u r e t o

Solid ologne

I n q r e d i e n t s :

A

S t e a r i c a c id , t r i p l e p ressed 5 . 0 0

Sorbo

2 .00

A1 coho1 SD 40 8 3 . 0 0

B Sodium h y d r o x id e t o s a p o n i f y t h e 5% s t e a r i c a c i d

Wa t e r , d e i o n i z e d

5 . 0 0

C

P erfu me o i l 5 .0 0

Procedure :

Add (C) a t 55-6OC. Pour i n t o hea te d mo lds . Cool s l o w ly t o

p r e v e n t f o r m a t i o n of a i r p o ck et s and t o a c hi ev e t h e g r e a t e s t

t r a n s l u c e n c y . Unmold, wrap i n f o i l and package i n a i r t i g h t

c o n t a i n e r s .

SOURCE: IC1

S u r f a c t a n t s : S ug ge st ed F o r m u l a t i o n s

Heat ( A ) t o 65C and ( B ) t o 70C. Add ( B ) t o (A) w i t h a g i t a t i o n .

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 485/553

Miscellaneous 463

High-Luster Toothpaste

I n g r e d i e n t s :

P a r t

A :

( 1 ) S o r b i t o l (70% s o l u t i o n )

(2 ) De ion i zed Wate r

P a r t

0 :

( 3 ) K a o p o l i t e

SF

( 4 )

D i

c a l c i um Phospha te D ih yd ra te

( 5 )

S o d i u m L a u r y l S u l f a t e

( 6 )

C a rb o xy m et hy l C e l l u l o s e ( medium v i s c o s i t y )

( 7 ) Tr im ag ne si um Phosph ate

( 8 ) K o r t h i x

H

( 9 )

So di um Sa cc h ar i n

(10)Methy l Paraben

( 11 )P ro py l Paraben

P a r t C :

( 1 2 ) F l a v o r i n g

i l

bv Wei a h t

30.00

17.52

24.25

24.25

2 . 0 0

0.80

0.50

0 .25

0 . 2 0

0 . 1 8

0 .05

q . s .

Procedure :

M i x ( 1 ) and ( 2 ) . I n a s e p ar a te c o n t a i n e r , t h o r o u g h l y d r y -

b l e n d i n g r e d i e n t s ( 3 ) t h ro u gh ( 1 1 ) . Add P a r t 8 s l o w l y t o P a r t

A .

M i x t h o r o u g h l y . Add P a r t

C, m i l l

t w i c e a n d d e a e r a t e .

each p roduc t used .

F o l l o w recommended h a n d l i n g p r a c t i c e s o f t h e s u p p l i e r o f

Denture Cleaner

I n g r e d i e n t s :

( 1 ) De i o n i z e d Wat er

( 2 ) K o r t h i x

H

( 3 ) C a rb o xy m et hy l C e l l u l o s e (medium v i s c o s i t y )

( 4 ) S o r b i t o l (70% s o l u t i o n )

( 5 ) G l y c e r i n

( 6 )

Sodi urn S a cc ha ri n

( 7 ) K a o p o l i t e 1147

( 8 ) S odium L a u r y l S u l f a t e

9 )

F l a v o r , P r e s e r v a t i v e

&

C o l o r a n t

bv We iah t

30.8

1 . 5

0 . 5

10 .0

10 .0

0 . 2

45.0

2.0

q s

Procedure :

a t h i g h s he ar u n t i l w e l l d i s p e r s e d . Reduce speed and add ( 4 ) ,

( 5 1 ,

and

( 6 ) .

S l o w l y add ( 7 ) and c o n t i n u e t o m ix u n t i l w e l l

d is per sed . Then add

( 8 ) .

Add

(9 )

and

m i l l

t w i c e a nd d e a e r a te .

F o l l o w recommended h a n d l i n g p r a c t i c e s o f t h e s u p p l i e r

o f

each p roduc t used .

SOURCE:

K a o p o l f t e , I n c . : S ug ge st ed F o r m u l a ti o n s

M i x ( 2 ) i n t o ( 1 ) w i t h h i g h s he ar . Add

( 3 )

a nd c o n t i n u e m i x i n g

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 486/553

464

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Hydrophilic

O/W

Ointment Base

I n g r e d i e n t s :

A S t e a r y l a l c o h o l

8 P r o p yl e ne g l y c o l

P e t r o l a t u m

M y r j 5 2

Methy l pa raben

&

p r o p y l p a r a b e n

Wa t e r, d e i o n i z ed

Heat (A) t o 70C. Heat ( B ) t o 72C. Add ( B ) t o ( A) w i t h

Procedure :

a g i t a t i o n .

S t i r

u n t i l s e t .

Emollient Anhydrous Ointment

I n g r e d i e n t s :

Ar l amo l E

A r l a c e l 1 8 6

Procedure :

t e m p e r a t u r e .

G-1726

Heat a l l i n g r e d i e n t s u n t i l l i q u i d and s t i r u n t i l room

W/O

Ointment Base

I n g r e d i e n t s :

P e t r o l a t u m

A r l a c e l 8 3, s o r b i t a n se sq u

Procedure :

Heat (A) t o 70C and

( B )

m o de r at e, b u t t h o r o u g h a g i

o l e a t e

t o 72C. Add (B)

a t i o n . S t i r u n t

gdJvJ

25 .00

25.00

12 .00

5 . 0 0

0 . 4 0

32.60

10.00

40.00

50.00

? bJJ

5 4 . 0 0

6 . 0 0

t o (A) s l ow l y w i t h

1 room te mp er a t ur e .

Washable Anhydrous Base

I n g r e d i e n t s : gdJvJ

Pe t ro l a t u m 9 5 . 0 0

Tween 61 o r Tween 81 o r M y r j 52 5.0 0

Procedure :

t e m p e r a t u r e .

Heat a l l i n g r e d i e n t s u n t i l l i q u i d and s t i r u n t i l room

Washable Anhydrous Base

I n g r e d i e n t s :

H y d r o p h i l i c P e t r o l a tu m ,

Tween 60

Procedure :

H ea t a1 1 i n g r e d i e n t s

t e m p e r a t u r e .

SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s

U.S .P .

u n t i l l i q u i d and

Suggested Formu

50 .00

50.00

s t i r u n t i l room

a t i

ons

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 487/553

Miscellaneous

465

Jojoba Massage Oil

M i n e r a l

O i l

I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e

Coconut

O i l

76

J o j o b a O i l

Almond O i 1 Sweet

Ace t u 1an

Glucam

P-20

Dow Cor n i ng S i 1i one

V i t a m i n

E

344

61.5

24.0

5.0

2.0

2.0

2.0

. o

2.0

0.5

Fragrance

q . s .

Procedure :

Load a l l i n g r e d i e n t s i n t o

a

s t a i n l e s s s t e e l k e t t l e . Warm

s l i g h t l y u n t i l c l e a r w i t h a g i t a t i o n , add Frag ran ce and package.

Massage Oil

S o l u l a n

P

B

5

Dow Corn i ng S i . l i c on e

344

Emerest

2314

Drakeo l

9

Coconut

O i l

E s c a l o l 507

Ross J o j o b a

O i

1

Perfume Nova Rome DE

51

3 . 0

16.0

13.0

31

. O

31 . O

3.0

3.0

q . s .

Procedure :

u nd er a g i t a t i o n and p ac ka ge .

SOURCE:

Frank

8 Ross

Co . ,

I n c . : S ug ge st ed F o r m u l a t i o n s

Load a l l i n g r ed i e n t s i n t o a v e s se l . Warm s l i g h t l y u n t i l c l e a r

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 488/553

466 Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations

Micro-Emulsions with Aloe Vera and d-Limonene

The f o l 1o wi ng f or m u la s a r e c l e a r ,

m i

c ro e mu l s i ons

o f

d -L i monene

and A l oe Vera . They re p r es en t th e range o f d -Limonene and A l oe

Vera c o n c e n t ra t i o n s c ommonly u s ed a s d e g re a s i n g s o l v e n t c l e a n e r s .

These f o r m u l a s a r e g e n e r a l l y u se d by d i l u t i n g i n w a te r ( 1- >1 6

o z . / g a l l o n d e pe n di ng on t h e u s e r e q u i r e m e n t s ) . The f o rm u l as a r e

c l e a r and e x h i b i t a b loom e f f e c t upon d i l u t i o n .

d - L i monene

Monamul se DL-1 273v

I s o p ro p a n o l

Water

A lo e Vera Gel ( T e r r y AG002)

d -L i monene

Monamulse DL-1273

I s o p ro p a n o l

Water

A lo e Vera Gel ( T e rr y AG002)

d -L i monene

Monamulse DL-1273

A lo e Vera Gel ( T e rr y AG002)

w/w

10 .0

18 .0

1 0 .0

42.0

20 .0

?

35 .0

28.0

5 . 0

1 2 . 0

20 .0

65.0

23.0

12 .0

Procedure :

c o m p l e t e l y d i s s o l v e d and

o f

u n i f o rm c o n s i s t e n c y . Add t h e

I so

propa no l , m i x i ng u n t i l homogeneous. Pre -m ix A lo e Vera Gel

w i t h wa te r . S lo w l y add t o b a tc h w i t h s t i r r i n g u n t i l u n i fo rm .

SOURCE:

T e r r y L a b o r a t o r i e s , I n c . : S u gg es te d F o r m u l a ti o n s

I n a l l c a s e s , m i x Monamulse DL-1273 w i t h d-Li mo ne ne u n t i l

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 489/553

Miscellaneous 67

Modified Petrolatum

n r e d i e n t

s

W h i t e p e t r o l a t u m

USP

Ar lamo l ISML, I s os o r b i de mono lau ra te

G-695, g l y c e r o l monoo lea te

75 .00

20.00

5.00

Procedure :

Add pha se ( A) t o g e t h e r a nd s t i r w i t h s l i g h t h e a t . Add pha se

( B) and h e at t o 8OC and s t i r i n phase ( C ). Cool w h i l e s t i r r i n g

and add phase

( D ) .

Formula CP 1051

Modified Petrolatum

I n a r e d i e n t s :

P e t r o l at u m , W h i t e P r o t o p e t

Span 40, s o r b i t a n monopa lm i ta te

A r l a t o n e

G, PEG

25 h yd r og e na te d c a s t o r o i l

P rocedure :

Formula

CP

1095

M e l t a nd m i x .

Modified Petrolatum

I n n r e d i e n t s :

P e t r o l at u m , W h i te P r o t o p e t

Span

40,

s o r b i t a n m o n o p a l m i t a t e

A r l a t o n e

G, PEG

25 hy d ro ge n at ed c a s t o r o i l

Procedure :

M e l t a n d m i x

Formula

CP

1096

Washable Oil

I n q r e d i e n t s :

A

Ar lamo l

E

At las 673500

60.00

24.00

16 .00

50.00

30.00

20 .00

71 .40

14 .30

B B r i j

30 9.50

C

Dow Corning

344

c y c l o m e t h i c o n e

4 . 8 0

Procedure :

and m ix we1 1

.

Formula

CP

1117

SOURCE: I C 1

S u r f a c t a n t s : S ug ge st ed F o r m u l a t i o n s

M i x ( 8 ) w e l l , Add ( 8 ) t o ( A ) a nd m i x w e l l . Add ( C) t o ( AB)

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 490/553

  68

Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations

Ointment Base

I n q r e d i e n t s :

A C e t y l a l c o h o l

B

Sorbo

A r l a c e l 1 6 5

Wate r, de i on i zed

C A r l a s o l v e D M I

D

* P r e s e r v a t i v e

q . s .

t h e se i n g r e d i e n t s .

7 . 0 0

5 . 0 3

5 . 0 0

73.00

10.00

Procedure :

go od a g i t a t i o n and ad d (C ) a t 35C and m i x t h o r o u g h l y . Add (D ) .

R ep la ce w a t e r l o s t d ue t o e v a p o r a t i o n . Package.

Heat (A) t o 72C and

B )

t o 75C. Add

(8)

o (A) s l o w ly w i t h

Anhydrous Ointment

I n a r e d i e n t s :

Ar l am o l ISML, i s o so rb id e mono lau rate

A r l

ace1 186 , g l y c e r o l monool ea t e

Pe t ro la tu m, P er fe c t a USP

* Pe rfum e o r a c t i v e s

* q . s .

t h e s e g r e d i e n t s .

Procedure :

Add phase (A ) t o g e t h e r and s t i r w i t h s l i g h t

6 )

and h e a t t o 80C and s t i r i n ph ase ( C ) . Coo

and add phase (D).

h e a t

wh

i

Zinc Oxide Ointment-Anhydrous

I n q r e d i e n t s :

A r l amol ISML, i os or b i de mono1 a ur a t e

A r l a c e l 18 6, g l y c e r o l m on oo le at e

P e t r o l a t u m , P e r f e c t a

USP

Z i n c o x i d e ,

USP

*P erfum e o r a c t i v e s

25.00

7 . 0 0

68 .00

Add phase

e s t i r r i n g

m

20.00

5 . 6 0

5 4 - 4 0

2 0 . 0 0

Procedure :

Add phase ( A ) t o g e t h e r and s t i r w i t h s l i g h t h e a t. Add phase

( B ) and h e a t t o 80C and s t i r i n phase ( C) . Cool w h i l e s t i r r i n g

and add phase (D).

Fo rm ul a CP 1035

SOURCE: IC1

S u r f a c t a n t s : S ug ge st ed F o r m u l a t i o n s

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 491/553

Miscellaneous

469

O/W

Ointment Base

I n g r e d i e n t s :

A P e t r o l a t u m

15.00

M in er al o i l

15.00

Spermacet i 5 .00

A r l a c e l

40,

s o r b i t a n m o n o p a l m i t a t e

5.00

Tween 40, po l yox ye t hy le ne s o r b i t a n monopalm i t a t e 5 .00

B

Water , de ion i zed

55.00

* P r e s e r v a t i v e

* q .

s .

t h e s e g r e d i e n t s .

Procedure :

modera te s t i r r i n g .

S t i r

t o

35C

and add w a t e r l o s t due t o

e v a p o r a t i o n .

Heat ( A ) t o

70C.

Hea t (B) t o

72C.

Add ( 6 ) t o ( A) s l o w l y w i t h

O/W Ointment Base

I n s r e d i e n t s :

A C e t y l a l c o h o l

20.00

M in er al o i l

20.00

A r l

ace1

80,

s o rb i t a n monool e a t e

0 . 5 0

Tween

80,

p o l y o x y e t h y l e n e s o r b i t a n m on oo le at e 4 .5 0

B

Water de i on i zed

55.00

* P r e s e r v a t i v e

* q . s .

t h es e i n g r e d i e n t s .

Heat (A)

t o 70C.

Heat

(B)

t o

72C.

Add

(B)

t o

( A )

s l ow l y w i t h

Procedure :

moderate s t i r r i n g . S t i r t o

35C

and add w a t e r l o s t due t o

e v a p o r a t i o n .

O/W Ointment Base

I n q r e d i e n t s :

A

S t e a r y l a l c o h o l

15.00

Beeswax

5.00

M in er a l o i l

15.00

A r l a c e l

80,

s o r b i t a n m o n o o l e a t e

1.25

0

Water , de i on i zed

60.00

Tween

80,

p o l y o x y e t h y l e n e s o r b i t a n m on oo le at e

3.75

* P r e s e r v a t i v e

*a.

s .

t h e s e g r e d i e n t s .

Procedure :

Heat

( A )

m od er at e s t

e v a p o r a t i o n

SOURCE:

IC1

t o

70C.

Heat

( 8 )

t o

72C.

Add ( 6 ) t o ( A) s l o w l y w i t h

r r i n g . S t i r t o

35C

and add w a t e r l o s t due t o

Su r f a c t a n t s : Sug ge st ed Fo rm u l a t i o n s

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 492/553

47 Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations

Oil-In-Water-In-Silicone Emulsion

O i

1

-i

-w at er Emu1 s i

on

Phase:

Water

P a n t e t h i n e ( 80% a q . s o l . )

Me thy lpa raben

Carbomer 940

G l y c e r i n e

Sod ium a1 k y l po l y e t h e r s u l f o n a t e

B l a n d o l M i n e r a l O i l

C h o l e s t e r o l

C e t y l p a l m i t a t e

PEG-22 dod ecy l g l y c o l copo lymer

E t h y l p a r a b e n

Propy lpa raben

S i 1

i

one Phase

:

Cyclomethicone/dimethicone

(9O: lO)

Cyclomethicone/dimethiconol (13 :87 )

Cyc lometh i cone

Pheny ld ime th i cone

Pare th 15 -3

Oc ty lme thoxyc innamate

Benzophenone

C12-15 a1 coh o1 s benzoa te

C o l o r

F rag rance

Protein-Lecithin Complex Emulsion

C a r n a t i o n M i n e r a l

O i

1

P r o t o p e t 1 s P e t r o l a t u m

C e t y l a l c o h o l

G l y c e r y l m o n o s t e a r a t e

C a s e i n - l e c i t h i n c o m p l e x

P r o p y l e n e g l y c o l

F rag rance

P r e s e r v a t i v e

Water

61 .54%

0 . 1 0

0 . 2 0

0 . 1 0

2 .50

1

. 2 5

1 . 7 5

1

. o o

0 . 2 0

0 . 2 0

0 . 1 0

0 . 1 5

9 . 5 0

5 . 0 0

3 . 0 0

1

. o o

2 .00

7 .00

0 . 5 0

2 . 8 5

0 . 0 3

0 . 0 3

45.00%

10.00

1 . 50

3 . 0 0

3 . 0 0

5 . 0 0

0 . 5 0

qs

q s

t o

1 0 0 . 0

Skin Growth Accelerator

5-Methoxy-6,7-methylenedioxy-Isoflavone-4-O-B-D-gluc-

S t e a r y l a l c o h o l 1 8 .0 0

L an ol i n 2 0. 00

Po l y o x y e t h y l e n e m o n o o l e a t e

0 . 2 5

G l y c e r y l m o n o st e ar a te 0 .2 5

P r o t o p e t 1

S

Pe t ro l a t u m 4 0 . 0 0

Water 16.50

SOURCE: W i t co Cor p . : Pe t ro le um S p e c i a l t i e s Group : Suggested

o s i d e

5.00

F o r m u l a t i o n s

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 493/553

Miscellaneous 47

Pharmaceutical Cream Base

I n g r e d i e n t s : w/w

A

S t e a r y l A l co h o l 6 . 0 0

A r l a c e l

1 6 5

6 . 0 0

6

Sorbo, S o r b i t o l S o l u t i o n

USP

5 . 0 0

Water 83.00

Heat ( A) t o 70C. Heat

(6)

o 72C. Add

(6)

o (A) w i t h a g i t a -

Procedure :

t i o n .

S t i r

u n t i l s e t .

Pharmaceutical Cream Base

I n g r e d i e n t s :

A

S t e a r i c A c i d 10 .00

S t e a r y l A l c o h o l 5 . 0 0

Tween

60 3 . 0 0

Span 60

1

. o o

6

Water 81 - 0 0

Procedure :

t i o n .

S t i r

u n t i l s e t .

Heat (A) t o 70C. Heat

(6)

o 72C. Add

(6)

o ( A) w i t h a g i t a -

Pharmaceutical Cream Base

I n q r e d i e n t s :

A S t e a r i c A c i d 1 0. 00

S t e a r y l

A1

coho1

5 . 0 0

Corn

O i l 3 . 0 0

I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e 2

. o o

My r j 52 3 .00

Span 60 2.00

6

S orb o, S o r b i t o l S o l u t i o n USP 5 . 0 0

Water 70.00

Procedure :

Hear (A ) t o 70C. Heat

(6)

o 72C. Add (6) o (A ) w i t h a g i t a -

t i o n .

S t i r

u n t i l s e t .

Pharmaceutical Ointment Base

I n q r e d i e n t s

:

A C e t y l A l c o h o l 20 .00

Corn

O i l

2 0 . 0 0

Tween 80

4 . 5 0

Span 80

0 . 5 0

6

Water 55.00

Procedure :

t i o n .

S t i r

u n t i l s e t .

SOURCE: I C 1 S u r f a c t a n t s : S ug ge st ed F o r m u l a t i o n s

Heat ( A) t o 70C. Heat

( 6 )

t o 72C. Add

(6)

o (A) w i t h a g i t a -

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 494/553

472 Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations

Washable Oil

I n g r e d i e n t s :

Ar l amo l

S3

B r i j 30

A r l a t o n e

T

P r o c e d u r e :

Formula

CP

1111

M i x w e l l a t room t e m p e r a tu r e ,

Washable Oil

I n q r e d i e n t s :

Ar l amo l

E

At las G73500

U

50.00

50.00

Procedure :

Fr om ul a CP 1112

M i x w e l l a t room te m p e r a t u re ,

Washable il

I n q r e d i e n t s :

Ar l amo l

S3

I s o p ro p y l p a l m i t a t e

B r i j

93

B r i j

30

Water

Procedure :

Formula CP 1115

M i x w e l l a t room t e m p e r a tu r e .

Washable Oil

I n a r e d i e n t s :

A Ar lamo l

E

B B r i j 30

C Dow Co rn ing 344 cy c lo me th ico ne

At las G73500

?&yy

80

0

10 .00

10 .00

60.00

30.00

5.00

4 . 6 0

0 . 4 0

l

50 .00

25.00

20.00

5 .00

Procedure :

and mi x w e l l .

Formula

CP

1116

M i x (B ) w e l l . Add ( 6 ) t o ( A ) and m ix we l l . Add

C)

t o (AB)

SOURCE:

IC1

S u r f a c t a n t s : Su gg es ted F o r m u l a t i o n s

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 495/553

Miscellaneous 473

Washable Oil

I n a r e d ie n t s :

A Ar lamo l E

B

B r i j

30

Water

Procedure :

Formula

CP

1109

M i x

( B )

we1 1 . Add (B) t o (A) and m ix w e l l .

Washable

Oil

I n s r e d i e n t s :

A Ar lamo l

E

B A r l a c e l 1 8 6

A r l a t o n e

T

U

79 50

2 0 . 0 0

0.50

y fy

70 .00

10 .00

20 .00

Procedure :

t o g e t h er a t room t em p er at ur e and s t i r w e l l .

Formula

CP

1110

M ix ( 8 ) w e l l , u s i n g h ea t t o c l a r i f y t h e A r l a c e l 186. M i x (A&B)

Washable Oil

I n s r e d i e n t s :

Ar l amo l

E

A r l a c e l 1 8 6

B r i j 93

Procedure :

Formula

CP

1113

M i x w e l l a t room t e m p e r a tu r e .

Washable Oil

I n a r e d i e n t s :

Ar l amo l

E

I s o p r op y l p a l m i t a t e

B r i j

93

Procedure :

Formula

CP

1114

SOURCE: IC1

S u r f a c t a n t s : S ug ge st ed F o r m u l a t i o n s

M i x w e l l a t room t e m p e r a tu r e .

y fy

65.00

15 .00

2 0 . 0 0

y

60.00

30.00

10 .00

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 496/553

474 Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations

Wound Healing Accelerator

P o l y o x y e t h y l e n e g l y c o l m o n o s t e a r a t e

G l y c e r y l m o n o s t e a r a t e

S t e a r i c a c i d

Beheny l a l coho l

B l a n d o l M i n e r a l

O i l

G l y c e ry l t r i o c t a n o a t e

Koj i

a c i d d i pa lm i t a t e

P r e s e r v a t i v e and f r a g r a n c e

1,3 B u t y l en e g l y c o l

A1 1 a n t o i n

Water

Massage Gel

2 -H ex ad ec yl p h os ph a te a r g i n i n e s a l t

Water

G l y c e r i n

D i

p r o p y l ene g l y c o l

I s o s te a r y l d i g l y c e r i d e

C a r n a t i o n M i n e r a l

O i l

C e t y l a l c o h o l

S t e a r y l a l c o h o l

F rag rance

P r e s e r v a t i v e

2 .00

5 . 0 0

5 . 0 0

1

. o o

1

. o o

5 . 0 0

2 . 0 0

qs

5 0 0

0 . 1 0

q s

t o

1 0 0 . 0 0

1.20%

3.60

14 .00

8 . 7 0

36 .00

35.50

0 . 4 0

0.60

9 , s .

9 , s .

Petrolatum Stick

T h i s h i g h p e t r o l a t u m s t i c k o f f e r s t h e w e l l known b e n e f i t s

o f p e t r o l a t u m i n an e asy t o use f or m.

P r o t o p e t

1s

P e t r o l a t u m

Syncrowax HGLC

Syncrowax ERCL

85 .0%

1 2 . 0

3 . 0

Procedure :

Combine t h e p e t r o l a t u m a nd t h e s yn crowax es . M i x w h i l e h e a t i n g

t o 80C. Co ol

t o

65-701) and p o u r .

C h i l l

t h e m ol ds

o r

t h e c ases t o

40C p r i o r

t o

p o u r i n g .

SOURCE:

W i t c o C o r p . : P e t r o l a t u m S p e c i a l t i e s G ro up: S ug ge ste d

F o r m u l a t i o n s

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 497/553

Miscellaneous

475

W/O

Ointment Base

I n n r e d i e n t s :

A M in er al o i l

Beeswax

Lanol

i

A r l a c e l 8 3, s o r b i t a n s e s q u i o l e a t e

B Borax

Wate r, de i on i zed

* P r e s e r v a t i v e

* q . s . t h e se i n g r e d i e n t s .

50 . 00

10 . 00

3 . 1 0

1 . o o

0 . 7 0

35 .20

Procedure :

m od er at e, b u t t h or o u gh a g i t a t i o n . S t i r u n t i l room t e m p e r a tu r e .

Heat ( A ) t o 70C and

( B )

t o 72C. Add

( B )

t o ( A) s l ow l y w i t h

W/O Ointment Base

I n g r e d i e n t s :

A

P e t r o l a t u m

M in er a l o i l

Beeswax

A r l

ace1 8 3, s o r b i t a n s e s q u i o l e a t e

B

Water, de i on i zed

* P r e s e r v a t i v e

40.00

15 .00

4.00

6 00

35.00

* q . s . t h e se i n g r e d i e n t s .

Hea t (A ) t o 70C and (B ) t o 72C. Add (B ) t o (A ) s l o w l y w i t h

Procedure :

m od era te , b u t t ho ro u gh a g i t a t i o n .

S t i r

u n t i l room t e m p e r a tu r e .

W/O

Ointment Base

qredi n

t

s

:

A

P e t r o l a t u m

A r l a c e l 8 3, s o r b i t a n s e s q u i o l e a t e

B Water, d i s t i l l e d

* P r e s e r v a t i v e

54 . 00

6 . 0 0

40.00

* q . s . t h e se i n g r e d i e n t s .

Procedure :

m od er at e, b u t t h or o u gh a g i t a t i o n . S t i r u n t i l room t e m p e r a tu r e .

SOURCE:

IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : S ug ge st ed F o r m u l a t i o n s

Heat (A) t o 70C and

( B )

t o 72C. Add (B)

t o

(A ) s l o w l y w i t h

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 498/553

Sect ion XIII

Trade Nam ed Raw Materials

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 499/553

Trade Named Raw Materials 477

RAW

MATERIALS

A b i l AV20

Ab i l 88839

A b i l B8851

Ab i l 88852

Ab i l 89950

A b i l B88183

A b i l EM-90

Abi 1 WE09

A b i l OSW12

A b i l Quat 3270

A b i l Quat 3272

A b i l Quat 3474

Abi l S201

A b i l Wax 2434

A b i l Wax 9800

Abi 1 Wax 9801

A b i l Wax 9809

Abi 1 Wax 9814

Abi 1 WE-09

Ab i l 100

Ab i l 3 5 0

CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION

P h e n y l t r i m e t h i c o n e

Cyc lometh icone

D i

meth i cone cop ol yo1

D i

meth i cone cop ol yo1

D i meth i cone p r op y l PG b e t a i n e

D i

met hi cone cop ol yo1

C e t y l d i m e t h i c o n e c o p o l y o l

P o l y g l y c e r y l - 4 I s o s t e a r a t e

(a n d ) Ce ty l

D i

meth i cone

Copo lyo l (and) Hexy l Laura te

Cyclometh icone (and) Dimeth-

i c o n o l (an d) D im e th i con e

Q u a t e r n ium-80

Q u a te rn i um-80

Quaternium-80

D i

me th i cone/Sodi um

PG

Pro p y l

D im et hi co ne T h i o s u l f a t e

Copolymer

S te a ro xy d im e th i co n e

S t e a r y l

Ce ty l d

S t e a r y l

Ce ty l d

d ime th icone

met h i cone

meth icone

meth icone

C e t y l

D i

met hi cone Copol yo1

( an d) P o l y g l y c e r y l - 4 I s o s t e a r -

a t e (and ) Hexy l Lau ra te

SOURCE

Goldschmid t

Go1 dschmi d t

Go1 dschmi d t

Go ldschmid t

Go1 dschmi d t

Goldschrni d t

Go1 dschmi d t

Go1 dschmi d t

Go ldschmid t

Goldschmi d t

Go1 dschmi d t

Go1 dschmi d t

Go 1dsc hm

Go 1dsc hm

Goldschm

d t

d t

d t

Go1 dschmi d t

Go ldschmid t

Go ldschmid t

Go1 dschmi d t

D i

meth i cone

Go1 dschmi d t

Dim eth ico ne Go1 dschmi d t

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 500/553

478

Cosmetic

and

Toiletry

Formulations

RAW M A T E R I A L S C H E M I C A L D E S C R I P T I O N S OU RC E

Abi l 500

D met hi cone Go1 dschm dt

Abi l

1000

Di met hi cone Go1 dschm dt

A- C Copol ymer

400

Et hyl ene- vi nyl acet at e copol yr ner Al 1 ed Si g-

A- C Pol yet hy

A- C Pol yet hy

Acet ol

Acet ol 1706

Acet ul an

A- C Copol ymer

540

Copol ymer

A- C Copol ymer 580 Copol ymer

A- C Pol yet hy l ene 9A Pol yet hy l ene

A- C Pol yet hy l ene

617

Pol yet hy l ene

ene

61

7A Pol yet hyl ene

ene 617G Pol yet hyl ene

Acr i t amer 940

Acr i t amer 941

Acr y sol I Cs - I

Ac t i ve 4

Acusc r ub 44

Acusc r ub

50

Acyl gl ut amat e HS- 11

Adogen

M A 1 0 8

Adol 52

Adol 52 NF

Adr i ano 0/ 235970

Aer os i l R972

Acet y l at ed anol i n a1 cohol

Acet yl at ed anol n a1 cohol

Ac et y l at ed l anol n al cohol

Car bomer 940

Car bomer 941

A c r y l a t e / S t e a r e t h 2 0 / M e t h

acr yl at e Copol ymer

Scr ub agent

Scr ub agent

Sur f ac t ant

Di met hyl st ear am ne

Cet yl al c ohol

Cet yl al cohol

Fr agr ance

Fumed s i l i ca

Al l i ed Si g-

Al l i ed Si g-

Al l i ed Si g-

Al l i ed Si g-

Al l i ed Si g-

Al l i ed Si g-

Henkel

Henkel

Ame

r

c ho

1

RI TA

RI TA

Rohm&Haas

E1 ew

Al l i ed Si g-

Al l i ed Si g-

Aj nomot o

W t c o

W t c o

W t co

Degussa

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 501/553

Trade Named

Raw

Materials 479

RAW MATERIALS

A G I T a l c

A j i d e w N 50

Aj idew T-50

A l c o l e c BS

A1 co na te

SBR-3

A ld o

HMS

A ldo MCT

A l f o l 18

Alkamide DL 203/S

Alkamide DC 212/S

A1 kamide

D I N 295/S

A1 kamide LE

A1 kamul EGMS

A1 1 a n t o i n

A lo e E x t r a c t

A l o e M o i s t

Aloe Vera 2 0 0 X

Aloe Verage l 200

CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION

T a l c

Sodium PCA

P y r r o l i d o n ec a r b o x y l i c a c i d

S i n g l e b l eac hed l e c i t h i n

Sodium p e t ro l e u m su l f o n a t e

G1 y c e r y l monostear ate

C ap ry l c a p r i c

t r i

g l y c e r i d e

S t e a r y l a l c o h o l

A1 kano l ami de

A 1 kano l ami de

A1 kano

A1 kano

A1 oe

A1 oe

A 1

oe

A1 oe

ami de

ami de

A loe Vera Gel Dec o lo r i zed 1 X

Aloe Vera L i q u i d A1 oe

A l o e V er ag el L i p o i d A l o e

A l o e V er ag el L i q u i d : l

A l o e V er ag el L i q u i d C on c e n tr a t e 1 : 40

A l p in e F l o r a l i s t i c F rag ranc e

SOURCE

Whi t t a k e r

A j

omoto

A j i omoto

Amer Lech

i t c o

Lonza

Lonza

V i s t a

Rhone-

Rhone-

Rhone-

Rhone-

I C 1

T e r r y

T e r r y

D r . Madis

D r .

Madis

T e r r y

D r .

Madis

D r . Madis

D r .

Madis

D r . Madis

A1 p i ne

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 502/553

480 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

RAW MATERIALS

A1 p i ne 165-049

Alugel DF30

Amerchol C A B

Amerchol H-9

Amerchol L-101

Amerchol 400

Amerl a t e

Am e r l a te P

Amerscreen P

Amihope LL

A m i s o f t CA

A m i s o f t CS-11

A m i s o f t CT-12

Amiter LG-OD

A m i t e r LGOD-2

Amiter LGS-2

Ammonyx

K P

AMP

AMP-95

Amphi so l

Amphisol A

Amphiso l

K

Ampholyt JA140

Amphol y t JB130

CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION

Fragrance

Aluminum hydroxide

S t e r o l emul s i

f

r / s t a b

S t e r o l e m u l s i f i e r / s t a b

M in er a l o i l and l a n o l i n

S t e r o l emul s i f r / s t a b i

I s o p r o p y l

1

a no l a t e

Lanol f a t t y a c i d / es t e

1

i

er

l i z e r

a l c o h o l

e r

E t hy l d i hydr oxy prop y l PABA

L au ro yl l y s i n e

Cocoy l g lu tamate

Sod ium coc oy l g lu ta mate

TEA-Cocoyl g lutamate

D i - o c t y l d o d ec y l l a u r o y l

g l u t a m a t e

D i s t e a r e t h - 2 1 a u r o y l g l u ta m a t e

O lea 1 kon iu m c h l o r i d e

2-ami no-2 -me thyl -1 -p rop ano l

2-amino-2-methyl -1-propanol

DEA-Cetyl phosphate

Po ta ssi u m c e t y l p ho sp ha te

Sodium lauroamphoacetate

Cocami dopr opy l be t a i ne

SOURCE

A 1 p i ne

Gui 1 i

Amerchol

Amerc ho 1

Amerchol

Amerchol

Amerchol

Amerc ho 1

Arner

c

ho1

A j i n o m o to

A ]

i omoto

A j

omoto

A j i n o m o to

A j

omoto

A j omoto

A j omoto

Stepan

Angus

Angus

G i vaudan

G i vaudan

G i vaudan

H u l s

Hul

s

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 503/553

Trade Named Raw Materials 481

RAW

MATERIALS

Amphomer LV-71

Amphotensi d 84

Amphotensid GB 2009

Am photensid 9M

Antaron V-220

A n t i l 141 L i q u i d

A n t i l 1 418

Ant

Ant

Ant

APT

1 1415

1 HS60

1 171

Aquasol 104

A r l

ace1

C

A r l a c e l 2 0

Ar l a ce l 4 0

A r l a c e l 6 0

A r l a c e l 8 0

A r l a c e l 8 3

A r l a c e l 8 5

A r l a c e l 1 6 5

A r l a c e l 1 8 6

A r l a c e l 4 8 1

CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION SOURCE

P r o p y l e n e g l y c o l

p r o p y l ene g l yco

PEG-55 propylene

Zschi mmer

Zschi mmer

Zsch i mmer

I S P

(a nd ) PEG-55 Go ld sc hm id t

o l e a t e

g l yc o l o l ea t e Go1 dschmi d t

PEG-55 p ropy lene g l y c o l o l ea t e Go1 dschmi d t

Cocamidopropyl Be ta in e (and) Go ldschm id t

G l y c e r y l L a u r a t e

PEG-18 Gl yc er y l g l y c o l cocoate / Go ldschmid t

01 ea te

A l oe v e r a g e l

Emul s i y i ng agent

Emul s i y i ng agent

Centerchem

CLE

I C 1

I C 1

So rb i t a n monopalmi t a t e I C 1

So rb i t a n m o n o s te a ra te I C 1

So rb i t a n m o n o o le a te I C 1

S o r b i t a n s es qu i o l e a t e I C 1

Emul s i y i ng agent

I C 1

G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e ( a nd ) I C 1

G1 y c e r o l monool e at e I C 1

Emul s i y i ng agent I C 1

PEG 100 S t e a r a t e

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 504/553

482 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

RAW MATERI ALS

Ar l ac el

582

Ar l acel

78

Ar l acel

989

Ar l acel

1689

Ar l acel DOA

Ar l amol E

Ar l at one

G

Ar l amol HD

Ar l amol I SML

Ar l amol M812

Ar

Ar

Ar

Ar

amo

amo

aso

aso

s3

s7

ve DMI

ve 200

Ar l at one G

i qui d

Ar l at one PQ220

Ar l at one T

Ar l at one 985

Ar l at one 2121

Ar meen DM18D

A- SM

AT

Ser i es

At l as G- 1726

At l as G- 1795

Emu

Emu

Emu

Emu

CHEMI CAL DESCRI PTI ON

si

f yi ng agent

si

f yi ng agent

si f yi ng agent

si f yi ng agent

Emul s i f y i ng agent

PPG- 15 st ear y l et her

PEG

25

hydr ogenat ed cast or

oi l

Emul

si

f y i

ng

agent

I sosor bi de monol aur at e

Emuf s i f y i ng agent

Emul

si

f y i ng agent

E m u l si

f y i ng agent

Emul

si

f yi ng agent

I socet et h- 20

PEG

2 5

hydr ogenat ed cast or oi l

Pol yquat er ni um- 19

Sunscr een agent

Sunscr een agent

Sunscr een agent

A1

i

phat i c am nes

St ear am ne oxi de

I r on

ox i d e s

Beeswax der vat ve

SOURCE

i c 1

i c 1

1c1

1c1

1c1

1c1

1c1

1c1

1c1

1c1

1c1

1c1

1c1

1c1

c

1c1

1c1

1c1

1c1

Akzo

Ni ppon O i l

1c1

I C1

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 505/553

Trade Named Raw Materials

483

RAW MATERIALS

At las G-2162

At las G-2330

At las G-3570

A t l a s

G

73500

Atmul 84s

Aubygel x-125

Avocado O i l

Avocado Spe ci a1

Baby

Bays

Powder

l o n e F

Eentone Ge

Bentone Ge

Eentone

L T

Eentone MA

165-648

u i d M10

Baysi

1

one F1 u i d PK2O

Beauty 0/239870

B ee 's M i l k

Bentone

EW

Eentone Gel CAO

Bentone Gel I P M

Een tone Ge l LO1

Bentone Gel M I 0

Bentone Gel SS71

vs-5

vs-5 PC

CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION SOURCE

I C 1

I C 1

I C 1

IC1

L i PO

Dragoco

Fragrance

S i 1

one

S i 1 one

Perfume o i l

Rheo l og i ca

Rheo l og i ca

Rheo l og i ca

Rheo log ica

H e ct o r i e c l a y

R h eo lo gi ca l a d d i t i v e

R h eo lo gi ca l a d d i t i v e

R h eo lo g ic a l a d d i t i v e

R h eo lo g ic a l a d d i t i v e

R h eo lo gi ca l a d d i t i v e

add i t i e

a d d i t i v e

add i t i e

a d d i t i v e

Mobay

Mobay

K o s t e r

Rheox

Rheox

Rheox

Rheox

Rheox

Rheox

Rheox

Rheox

Rheox

Rheox

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 506/553

484 Cosmetic and

Toiletry

Formulations

RAW MATERIALS CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION SOURCE

Bermoco l l E230 Whi t t a k e r

Be rm oc ol l E481 Whi

t

a e r

Be ta Glucam 15% Coarse Ko st er

B io dy ne s TRF T i s s u e r e s p i r a t o r y f a c t o r s B ro ok s

B i o l ac L a c t i c a c i d , 88%

B i o - s u l p h u r CLR CLR

B i o t e r g e AS-40 Sodi

u m

C14-C16 o l e f s u l f o n a t e Stepan

B i

r c h

(wa te r ) Sp e c ia l D ra go co

B1 a nd ol M i n e r a l o i l

Wi

c o

Bou que t Eau de Mer PC 916 .315 Perfum e

B r i

O le th -10 1c1

B r i j 20 Emul s i y i ng agent c

B r i j 30 Emul s i y i ng agent c

B r i j 35 E m u l s i f y i n g a ge nt 1c1

B r i j 35SP E m u l s i f y i n g a ge nt

c

B r i j 52 C et et h- 2 c

B r i j 56 E m u l s i f y i ng ag en t 1c1

B r i j 58 Emul s i y i ng agen t c

B r i j 72 S t ea r et h -2

c

B r i j 76 S te ar et h- 10

1c1

B r i j 78

S t e a r e t h - 2 0 c

B r i j 93 Emul s i y i ng agent c

B r i j 9 7 Emul s i y i ng agent

1c1

B r i j 700

E m u l s i f y i n g a g en t I C 1

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 507/553

Trade Named Raw Materials

485

RAW MATERIALS

B r i j 721

B r i

j

721s

Bronopol

Busan 1504

c19-011

C19-012

C65-4429

Cab-0-Si 1 M-5

Cab-0-Si1 TS-530

CAE

Camomile Special

CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION

Stea re th -21

Emu1 s i y i ng agent

B a c t e r i c i d e

M i

c r o b i o c i de

D&C

Red No. 7

D&C Red No. 6

F&D Ye l l o w

No.

5

S i l i c a

S i l i c a

DCA e t h y l c o co yl a r g i n a t e

C ap ry l i c / C a p r ic T r i g l y c e r i d e

Car bo po l EDT Carbomer

Carb opo l ETD 2055 Ca rbome

r

Ca rbo pol 934 Carbomer 934

Carbopol 940 Carbomer 940

Ca rbo pol 941 Carbomer 941

Car bopol 954 Carbomer 954

Ca rbo pol 980 Carbomer 980

Ca rbo pol 981 Carbomer 981

Ca rbo pol 1382 Carbomer 1382

Ca rn a t i o n M i n e r a l O i 1

Cas to rwax Hyd ro ge na te d ca s t o r o i l

SOURCE

I C 1

I C 1

I n o l ex

Buckman

S u n

Sun

S u n

Cabot

Cabot

A j omoto

Dragoco

Berne l

Goodr i ch

Goodri ch

Goodr h

Goodr i ch

Goodr i ch

Goodr i ch

Goodr i ch

Goodr h

Goodri ch

i t c o

CasChem

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 508/553

486 Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations

RAW MATERIALS CHEMICALS DESCRIPTION

Cegoso

C e l l o s

C e l l

o s

C e l l o s

t C24

ze

QP

l O O M H H y d r o x y e t h y l c e l l u

ze QP-4400-H H yd ro xy e t hy lc e l lu

ze PP-15,000-H Hy dr ox ye th y l ce l l u

Ce l qua t

H 1 00

Celquat SC-240

Cera A l b a l a t e

103

Cera B e l l i n a

Cera1 an

Ceraphyl 41

Ceraphyl 45

Ceraphyl 50

Ceraphy l

50s

Ceraphy l 60

Ceraphy l

65

Ceraphyl 368

Ceraphy l

375

Ceraphyl 424

Ceraphyl 494

Ceraphyl 847

Ceraphy l I C A

Cerasyn t MN

Cerasyn t PA

Cerasyn t Q

ose

ose

ose

Pol yq ua te rn i um-4

Po lyqua te rn ium-10

Behenyl beeswaxates

Pg-3 Beeswax

C12-15 a l co h o l s l a c t a t e

D i

o c t y l m l a t e

Emul s i i r

Emul s i f r

Q u at e rni urn-22

Q u a te rn i um-26

O c t y l p a l m i t a t e

I s o s t e a r y l n e o p e n t a n o a t e

E m u l s i f i e r

Emul s i

f

i e r

SOURCE

Union Car

Union Car

Union Car

Na tS ta rch

Na tS ta rch

Ko s te r

Ko s te r

Ame r c ho 1

VanDyk

VanDyk

VanDyk

VanDyk

VanDyk

VanDyk

VanDyk

VanDyk

VanDyk

VanDyk

O c ty l d o d e cy l s te a ro y l s t e a ra te VanDyk

Emu ls i f i e r VanDyk

G l y c ol s t e a r a t e SE VanDyk

Propy lene g ly co l s t ea ra te VanDyk

G l y c er y l s t e a r a t e SE VanDyk

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 509/553

Trade Named Raw Materials 487

RAW MATERIALS CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION

Cerasynt 840 PE G - 2 0 s t e a r a t e

C eres in e Wax 130/135

Cere si ne Wax 140/150

Cetal Cetyl a lcoho l

Cet

Cet

Cet

01

MM

01 OE

01

s

Emol

Emo 1

Emol

i e nt e s t e r s

i e n t e s t e r s

i en t e s t e r s

C e t i o l SN Emoll ient es te r s

Chamomile LS Saff lowe r o i l (an d) chamomile

e x t r a c t

Chi a r a 0/238927 Fra gra nc e

Chlorhydrol , 50% Aluminum chlorhydrate, 50%

Choles te ro l NF

Chroma-1 i t e 81 ack Pe ar le sc en t pigment

Chroma-l i te Dark Blue Pearlescent pigment

Ci t r o f l e x - 2 P l a s t i c i z e r

C1 e a r l an Lanol i n

CMC

7MF

Cel l u l o s e gum

Coconut Oil 76

Col lagen

C L R

Co ll as ol Col

1

agen

Color No. 3170 Pur Oxy Yellow 0 C

Col or No. 3315 Pur

O x y

Umber

B . C .

Color

N o .

2511 Lo-Micron Pink B . C .

Colo r No. 3121-D

& C

Red No.

21

Color N o . 7055 P u r Oxy Yellow 0.C.

Color No. 7153 Lo-Micron P i n k

B . C .

SOURCE

Van D y k

Koster

Koster

Ame

r

cho 1

Henke

Henke

Henke

Henkel

Rehei

s

Ri ta

VanDyk

VanDyk

Morf 1ex

Henkel

Aqua1 on

We1 ch

CLR

Croda

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 510/553

488 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

RAW MATERIALS CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION SOURCE

Cop hero l F-1300 Toco pher ol Henkel

Corona Pure New La n o l i n

Cosmet ic Tan C33-130 I r o n o x id e Sun

Cosmowax

J

Courage 0/243101

CP 1052

Cremogen Aloe Vera

Cremophor A6

Cremophor A25

Cremophor EL

Cremophor HP14

Cremophor RH410

Crodace l

QM

Cro d a c id B

Crodacol C-70

Crodacol C-95

Crodacol CS-50

Crodacol S-95

Crodacol S-95NF

Crodafos

CES

C e t e a r y l a l c o h o l ( a n d ) c e t e a r -

e th -2 0

Fragrance

Shampoo base

P r o p yl e n e g l y c o l ( an d) e t h ox y -

d i g l y c o l (and) a l o e e x t r a c t

S u r f a c t a n t

S u r f a c t a n t

S u r f a c t a n t

S u r f a c t a n t

S u r f a c t a n t

Cocodimonium hydraxypropoxy

c e l l u l ose

Be h e n i c a c i d

C e t y l a l c o h o l

C e t y l a l c o h o l

C e t e a r y l a l c o h o l

S t e a r y l a l c o h o l

S t e a r y l a l c o h o l

C e t e ar y l a l c o h o l ( a nd ) c e t e a r y l

phosphate

Croda

I C 1

Haarman

BASF

BASF

BASF

B A S F

BASF

Croda

Croda

Croda

Croda

Croda

Croda

Croda

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 511/553

Trade Named Raw Materials 489

RAW MATERIALS

Crodafos

N 3

N e u t r a l

Crodafos N3A

Crodafos N 1 OA

Crodalan LA

Crodamol C A P

Crodamol DA

Crodamol ML

Crodamol

MM

Crodamol PMP

Crodamol P T C

Crodamol P T I S

Crodamol

S S

Crodamol

C r o d a p e a r l L i q u i d

C r od as i n i c LS-30

Cromois t CS

Crodesta F10

Crodesta F110

Cro p e p t i d e

Croquat HH

Croquat L

C H E M I C A L D E S C R I P T I O N

DEA

Ole th-3 phosphate

Ole th -3 phosphate

Ole th -10 phosphate

C e t y l a c e t a t e ( an d) a c e t y l a t e d

1 a n ol a l c o h o l

F a t t y a c i d e s t e r

F a t t y a c i d e s t e r

F a t t y a c i d e s t e r

M y r i s t y 1 m yr i s t a t e

SOURCE

Croda

Croda

Croda

Croda

Croda

Croda

Croda

Croda

PPG-2 m y r i s t y l e th e r p ro p io n a t e C ro da

P e n t a e r t h y r i t y l t e t r a c a p r y l a t e / Croda

c a p r a t e

P e n t a e r y t h r i t y l t e t r a i s o s t e a r a t e Croda

C e t y l e s t e r s

S te a ry l h e p ta n o a te

Sodi um 1a u r e t h s u l f a t e ( an d)

hydroxyethyl s tearamide-MIPA

Sodi um 1 a u r o y l s a r c os i n a t e

C h o n d r o i t in s u l f a t e ( and )

h y dr o ly z ed p r o t e i n

Sugar es te r

Sugar es te r

Hyd ro l yze d whea t p r o t e i n (a nd )

wheat o l osacchar i des

Cocodimonium hydroxypropyl

h yd ro l yze d h a i r k e r a t i n

Lau ry ld imon ium hyd roxyp ropy l

c o l 1agen

Croda

Croda

Croda

Croda

Croda

Croda

Croda

Croda

Croda

Croda

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 512/553

490

Cosmetic

and Toiletry Formulations

RAW MATERIALS

C ro su l t a i ne C-50

C r o t e i n

A D

C r o t e i n SPA

C r o t h i x

Crovol A-70

Crovol PK-70

C r y s t a l 0

C u t i n a CBS

C u t i n a

CP

C u t i n a GMS

C u t i n a LM

C u t i n a

MD

Cyclomide DC 212/S

C y c l o r y l WAT

C y c l o t e r i c BET C-30

CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION

Co ca m id o p ro p y l h yd ro xysu l t a i n e

H y d r ol y z e d a ni ma l p r o t e i n

H y d r ol y z e d a ni ma l p r o t e i n

PEG-1

50 p e n t a e r y t h r i t y l

t e t r a s t e a r a t e

PEG-60 almond glycerides

PEG-45 pa lm ke rne l g l y c er id e s

Ca s to r o i l

Cream base

Cream base

Cream base

Cream base

Cream base

Cocamide DEA

Cocami dopr opy l b e t a i

n e

DC-556 S i 1 one

DC-593 S i 1 one

D&C Red 7 Ca Lake (3 10 7)

D & C Red 9 (31-3009)

Deosafe 75128

N / I

Perfume

Dermacry l LT Sk in ca re po lymer

Dermacry l -79 Sk in ca re po lymer

SOURCE

Croda

Croda

Croda

Croda

Croda

Croda

CasChem

Henkel

Henkel

Henkel

Henkel

Henkel

Cyc lo

Cyc lo

Cyc lo

D o w

Co rn in g

D o w Co rn in g

Thomasset

Thomasset

Haarman

N a t . S t a r c h

N a t . S t a r c h

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 513/553

Trade Named Raw Materials

491

RAW MATERI ALS

Der mol

185

D af or mer 2- A

Di af or mer

2-301

D af or mer

2-400

D ahol d A- 503

Di oni l OC/ K

D- Li monene

Dow Cor ni ng

2-7224

Dow Cor ni ng

Q2-5000

Dow Cor ni ng

190

Dow Cor ni ng

193

Dow Cor ni ng

200

DC

200

f l u i d ; 50

vi s

Dow Cor ni ng

200; 100

Dow Cor ni ng

200; 200

CHEMI CAL DESCRI PTI ON

I sost ear y l neopent anoat e

Met hac r y l ol et hyl bet ai ne/

met hacr yl at es copol ymer

Met hac r y l ol et hyl bet ai ne/

met hacr yl at es copol ymer

Met hac r yl ol et hyl bet ai ne/

met hacr yl at es copol ymer

AMP- Acr yl at es Copol ymer

PEG 4 1

eam de

Di pent ene

S

i cone

D met

h

cone cop0 yo

Di met hi cone copol yol

Di met hi cone copol yol

D met h

i

cone

D met hi cone

D met hi cone

Di met hi cone

Dow Cor ni ng

344

F l ui d Cyc l omet hi cone

Dow Cor ni ng

345

F l ui d Cyc l omet hi cone

Dow Cor ni ng

556

Phenyl t r i met hi cone

SOURCE

Sandoz

Sandoz

Sandoz

Sandoz

Hul s

Fl or i da

Dow

Cor n

Dow Cor n

Dow Cor n

Dow Cor n

Dow Cor n

Dow

Cor n

Dow Cor n

Dow Cor ni ng

Dow Cor ni ng

Dow Cor ni ng

Dow Cor ni ng

Dow Cor ni ng

593

Di met hi cone ( and) t r i met hyl - Dow Cor ni ng

si l oxys i i c at e

Dow Cor ni ng

929

Amodi met hi cone ( and) nonoxy- Dow Cor ni ng

no1

- 10

( and) t al ow- t r i moni um

c hl or i de

Dow Cor ni ng

1401

Fl ui d Dow Cor ni ng

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 514/553

492 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

RAW MATER L S

D o w i c i l 200

Dra g o c id

Drakeol 9

Drakeol 109

Drakeo l 35

Dr y F l o PC

Duveen T o i l e t Soap

Dynacer i n 660

Dynasan 110

Dynasan 114

CHEMICAL

D E S C R I P T I O N S O U R C E

P r e s e r v a t i ve Dow

Dragoco

M i n e r a l o i l Penreco

M in e ra l o i 1 , n a p h th e n i c Penreco

M i n e r a l o i l Penreco

Alum inum s ta rc h o c t e n y l su cc i n a te Nat S ta rc h

Base Duveen

0 1 e y l e ru ca t e Hul s

T r i Cap ri n Hul

s

T r i myr i s t i

n

Hul s

Eastman A0 38s Pol ymer Eastman

Eastman

AQ

55s Polymer Eastman

Eastman Vitamin E TPGS (20%) Eastman

Eastman Vi tamin E Ac et at e 6-81 Eastman

E la s to so l Anim al Co l l a g e n & E l a s t i n C r o d a

E ldew CL-301 D i - ( c h o l e s t e r y l , behenyl ,

A j

omoto

o c t y l d o d e c y l ) N - L a u r o y l - L - g l u t -

amic a c i d e s t e r

E l e f ac 1 -205 Oc ty ldod ecy l neopen tanoa te

E l fa co s C26 Polymer f o r cosmet i c s

E l fa co s E200 Polymer f o r cosmet i c s

E l fa co s ST9 Polymer f o r cosmet i c s

Emal ex CC-168 C e t y l oc ta no at e

Emalex GM-5 POE 5 ) g l y c e r y l m o n o s t e a r a t e

Be rn e l

Akzo

Akzo

Akzo

N i

hon

N i hon

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 515/553

Trade Named Raw Materials

493

R A W M A T E R I A L S

Emalex

G M S - 7 C A E

Emal ex GMS-45RT

Emalex HC-5

Emalex

S . T , G . - R

Emeressence 1160

Emerest 2000

Emerest 2314

Emerest 2316

Emerest 2350

Emerest 2388

Emerest 2400

Emerest 2407

Emerest 2452

Emersol 132

Emersol 213

Emerson-1 323

Emery

I P P

Emery 622

Emery 916

Emery 1723

E s c a l o l 507

Esca lo l 557

Esca lo l 567

C H E M I C A L DESCRIPTION

G l y c e r y l m on os te ar at e, s e l f

emul s i y i ng

G l y c e r y l m on os te ar at e, s e l f

emul s i y i ng (HLB5)

POE ( 5 ) h yd ro ge na te d c a s t o r o i l

H yd ro ge na te d o i l

Phenoxyethanol

G1 yc e r y l s t e a ra te

E s t e r

E s t e r

G l y c o l s t e a r a t e

P r o p y l e n e g l y c o l

d i

p e l a r g o na t e

G l y c e r y l s t e a r a t e

G l y c er y l s t e a r a t e S E

P o l yg l y ce r y l d i - i s o s t e a r a t e

S t e a r i c a c i d

Coconu t ac id

G l y c e r i n p u re

O c t y l d i me th yl PABA

Octy l methoxyc innamate

Benzophenone-3

SOURCE

Nihon Emul

Nihon Emul

Nihon Emul

Nihon Emul

Henkel

Henkel

Henkel

Henkel

Henkel

Henkel

Henkel

Henkel

Henkel

Henkel

Henkel

Henkel

Henkel

Henkel

Henkel

Henkel

Van Dyk

Van Dyk

Van Dyk

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 516/553

494 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

RAW MATERIALS

Esta lan 430

E s t o l EHP 1543

Esto l 1550

Ethomeen C-25

Ethox-yktted Carnauba

Ethoxyo l 24

Eumulg in 91

Eumulgin 92

Euperlan PK-771

Eusolex 232

Euso lex 6300

Eu ta n o l

G

Ewalan O D E 50

E x t r a c t 5 2

C H E M I C A L

D E S C R I P T I O N

Cosmet ic emol 1 n t es t e r

Cosmet i c es te r

Cosmet i c es te r

Et hox y l a t ed a1 ha t i c ami nes

E t ho x yl a t e d o l e y l a l c o h o l

C o s m e t i c e m u l s i f i e r

O/W

C o s m e t i c e m u l s i f i e r O/W

P e a r l s h i n e c o n c e n t r a t e

Sunscreen

Sunscreen

O c ty l d o d e ca n o l

Ext ra po n Hamamel Sp ec i a1

Ex tr ap on 3-Speci a1

Fancol A L A

F in q u a t

C T

F in s o lv TN

amenco Super Blue

amenco Superpearl

amenco Velvet-100

e x r i c i n 9

A c e t y l a t ed l a n o l i n a l c oh o l

Qu at er ni um-75

C12-15 a lc oh o ls benzoate

Cosmet ics p igment

Cosmet ics p igment

Cosmet ics p igment

F a t t y a c i d e s t e r

SOURCE

Lanaetex

Unichema

Un i chema

Akzo

Ko s te r

Lanaetex

Hen ke l

Henkel

Henkel

EM I n d u s t

EM I n d u s t

Henkel

HE Wagner

Zsch i mmer

Dragoco

Dragoco

Fanning

F i n e te x

F i n e te x

Mear l

Mear l

Mear l

Caschem

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 517/553

Trade Named Raw Materials 495

RAW MATERI ALS CHEMI CAL DESCRI PTI ON

Fl or al Spi ce NP49 Fr agr ance

F1 or asynt h AB5697 Powder t ype

Fl ui l an Li qui d l anol i n

Fombl i n HC/ R

For es t al

For l an

L

R. I . T. A. b l e n d

Fouger e Lavender Fr agr ance

Fr agr ance DE- 47

Fr agr ance DO- 60

Fr agr ance- F i nesse Type

Fr agr ance- F l or a l 169- 120

Fr agr ance GG44

Fr agr ance GK- 17

Fr agr ance GK- 19

Fr agr ance GK- 21

Fr agr ance GP- 58

Fr agr ance H- 45756

Fr agr ance 2991H

Fr agr ance X3110

Fr agr ance

1- 67

Fr agr ance

189- 7124

Fr agr ance 163- 478

SOURCE

Cr oda

Br ooks

I C1

Ri t a

Fr t z s c h e

Novar ome

Novar ome

Novar ome

Novar ome

Novar ome

Novarome

Rober t et

I FF

Rour e

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 518/553

496

Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations

RAW MATERIALS CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION

SOURCE

G-9600 1053 Shampoo base

I C 1

Gaff VC-213

V i

nylcaprolactam/PVP/Dimethyl-

ISP

aminoe thy l me thacry la te copo lymer

Gafquat

755

Po ly qu at er n i um-1

I S P

Gamma Or za no l K os te r

Ganex V-220 PVP/E icosene co po lyme r I S P

Ganex WP660 A l k y la t e d v i n y l py r r o l i d on e I S P

co po l ymer

Geahlene

750

M i n e r a l o i l ( an d) h yd ro ge na te d

butylene/ethylene/styrene copolymer

(and ) hyd rogena ted e thy lene /p ro py le ne /

s ty rene copo lymer

Gemtone Mauve Qu ar tz Cosmet ic p e a r l powder Mea rl

Germaben I C os me ti c p r e s e r v a t i v e S u t t o n

Germaben 11-E C os me ti c p r e s e r v a t i v e S u t t o n

Germal l

I 1

D i

azo1

i

i n y l u r ea S u t t o n

Germal l

1 1 5

I m i d a zo l i n y l u r ea S u t t o n

Geropon SBFA-30 Rhone

Ginkgo B i 1oba Vern i n

Givaudan PSC 10,435/6 Fragrance G i vaudan

Glucam E-10 Etho xy l a t ed me thyl g lucos ides Amercho l

Glucam P-20 Pr opo xy la t ed meth y l g l uc os id es Amercho l

G1 ucamate DOE-I

20

PEG-120 methyl g lu co se d i o l e a t e Amerchol

G1 ucamate SSE-20 E t h o x y l a t e d me th yl g l uc os id es Amerchol

G lucamate SSG-20 A1 k y l a t e d meth y l g l uc os id e e s t e r Amercho l

G lu ca te DO Meth y l g l uc os id e es te r Amerc ho 1

G l u c a t e

S S

Meth y l g l uc os id e es te r Arne

r

cho 1

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 519/553

Trade Named Raw Materials 497

RAW MATERIALS

Glucopon 425 C S

Glucopon 600 CSUP

Glucopon 625

CSUP

Glucquat 100

G lyd a n t

G l yd a n t P l u s

G lyp u re 7 0 %

GMS S E

G r i

1 locam E-20

G r i

1 o t e n LSE-65K

G r i l l o t e n LSE-87K

G r i l l o t e n PSE 141G

Hai

r

Complex Aquosum

Hamamel i s Speci a1

Hamp-ene Na4

Hamp-ene 220

CHEMICAL D E S C R I P T I O N

DMDM hyda n to i n

G l y c o l i c a c i d

G l yce ro l M o n o s te a ra te

S E

M e th y l g l u ce th -2 0

Sucrose cocoate

Sucrose cocoate

Su c ro se s te a ra te

T e t ra so d

T e t r a s o d

um EDTA

um EDTA

Herbal Fragrance SL 79-1224

H e t e s t e r HCA G l y c e r y l t r i a c e t y l h ydr ox y-

s t ea r a t

e

He te st e r HCP PPG-3 hydrogenated c a st o r o i l

H i -S i1 T -600

Ho rse -ch e s tn u t Sp e c ia l

H os ta c er i n PN73

SOURCE

Amerchol

Ame r c ho1

Arne r c ho1

Amerchol

Lonza

Lonza

Stepan

R i t a

R i t a

R i t a

R i t a

CLR

Dragoco

Hampshi r e

Hampshi r e

PFW

Be rn e l

Be rn e l

PPG

Dragoco

Hoechst

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 520/553

498 Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations

RAW

MATERIALS CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION SOURCE

Hostap ha t KL340N Hoec hs t

Hydrogenated Po ly is ob ut en e Amoco

Hydro1yzed S i 1

k

P r o t e i n I keda

H y d r o t r i t i c u m

WAA

H y d r o t r i t i c u m 2000

Hydroxy01

Hygropl ex HHG

H y s t a r

CG

Hys t re n e

5016

Igepon AC78

Imwi to r 780K

I m w i t o r 900

I m w i t o r

960

F l a k e s

In c ro c a s 40

Incrodet TD-7C

Incromate OLL

Incromate SEL

Wheat amino a c i d s Croda

Wheat p r o t e i n h yd ro l yz a te s C ro da

Malmstrom

C L R

Hydrogena ted s ta rch hyd ro lysa te Lonza

F a t t y a c i d Humko

A ni on s u r f a c t a n t

I s o s t e a r y l d i g l y c e r y l s u cc in at e

G l y c e r y l s t e a r a t e

G l y c e r y l s t e a r a t e S E

PEG-40 ca s t o r o i l

T r id e ce t h- 7 c a r b o x y l i c a c i d

01 vamidop ro py l d ime thy lam ine

1 a c t a t e

Sesamidopropy l d imethy lamine

1 a c t a t e

I S P

Hul

s

Hul

s

Hul

s

Croda

Croda

Croda

Croda

I nc r om e c ta nt AMEA-70 Ace tami de

MEA

Croda

In cr om ec ta nt AMEA-100 Ace tami de

MEA

Croda

In cr om ec ta nt LAMEA Ace tami de MEA (and ) l ac tamide

MEA

Croda

Inc ro m ide ALD A1 mondami de DEA Croda

I nc r om id e BAD Babassuamide DEA Croda

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 521/553

Trade Named Raw Materials 499

R A W MA TE R I A LS

I n c r o m i d e

CA

I n c r o m i d e

CAC

I n c r o m i d e L R

I n c r o m i d e

WGD

I n c ro m in e BB

Inc rom i ne Oxide WG

Incronam AL-30

Incronam WG-30

Incronam

30

Incropol CS-20

Incropol SC-20

Incroquat BA-85

C H E M I C A L D E S C R I P T I O N

Cocamide

DEA

Cocamide DEA c o c o y l s a r c o s i n e

Lauram i de DEA

Wheat germamide

DEA

Behenamidopropyl d imethylamine

Wheat germami do pr op yl o x i d e

Almondami do pr op yl b e t a i ne

Wheat germamidopropyl beta ine

Cocamidopropy l b e t a i ne

Ce te a re th -2 0

E t h o x y l a t e d a l c o h o l

Babassuami dop ro pa l k on i um

c h l o r i d e

In c ro q u a t Be h e n y l

TMS

Behen t r imon ium methosu l fa te

( an d) c e t e a r y l a l c o h o l

I n c r o q u a t

CR

Conc. Ce te a ry l a l co ho l (and) P E G - 4 0

SOURCE

Croda

Croda

Croda

Croda

Croda

Croda

Croda

Croda

Croda

Croda

Croda

Croda

Croda

Croda

c a s t or o i 1 ( an d) - s t e a r a l kon i um

c h l o r i d e

I n c r o q u a t

0-50

Olea1 kon ium c h l o r i d e Croda

I n c r o q u a t S-85 St e a r a l kon ium c h l o r i d e C roda

In d o p o l H - 1 0 0 Vis cous po ly bu te ne Amoco

I r g a s a n

DP300

B a c t e r i o s t a t

C i

ba-Gei gy

I r o n Oxid e Brown 7058 Warner-3enk

I r o n O xi de Y e l lo w 7055 Warner-Jenk

I s o p a r H I s o p a r a f f i n s o l v e n t Exxon

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 522/553

5 osmetic

and Toiletry Formulations

RAW MATERI ALS CHEMI CAL DESCRI PTI ON SOURCE

I sopr opy l an

5

I s opr opyl es t er

of

l anol i n Arne r cho

1

I var l an 3230 Lanol i n o i l Br ooks

I vy Spec i al Dr agoco

3 13 AT Tal c

J er gens Type R- 30318 Fr agr ance

Kaopol i t e SF Pol i shi ng powder

Kaopol i t e

TLC

Pol i shi ng powder

Kaopol i t e

1147

Pol i shi ng powder

Kar i on

F

Kat hon CG Met hyi c hl or i s ot hi azol i none

( and) Met hyl i s ot hi azol i none

Kel t r ol Xant han gun1

Kel t r ol

F

Xant han gun1

Kel t r ol RD Xan t han gum

Kel t r ol T Xant han gum

Kel t r ol TF Xant han gum

Kel zan Xant han

gum

Kel zan AR Xant han gum

Kessco Et hy l ene Gl ycol Di s t ear at e

Kessco Gl ycer yl Monost ear at e

Kessco- 653 Fat t y est er

Kest er Wax K- 48 Sper macet i

Kest er Wax 62

Kaopol i t e

Kaopol i t e

Kaop o

1

t e

E. Mer ck

R o hm&

Kel co

Kel co

Kel co

Ke

1

co

Ke

1co

Kel co

Kel co

St epan

St epan

St epan

Koster

Koster

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 523/553

Trade Named Raw Materials 501

RAW MATERIALS

Kes te r

Wax

1 0 0

Kester Wax 8 5

K l u c e l G F

K l u c e l

MF

K o r t h i x H

K y t a m e r KC

L a m e p o n S

L a n e t o

5 0

L a n e t o 100

L a n e t t e

L a n e t t e N

L a n e t t e

1 6

L a n o g e n e

L a n o l i n U SP

C H E M I C A L D E S C R I P T I O N

H y d r o x y p r o p y l c e l l u l o s e

H y d r o x y p r o p y l c e l l u l o s e

T h i c k e n i n g a g e n t

P o l y q u a t e r n i u rn-29

P r o t e i n s u r f a c t a n t

P E G-7 5 1 a n a 1 n

P E G -7 5 1 a n o l i n

C e t e a r y l a l c o h o l

C r e a m b a s e

o / w

C e t y l a l c o h o l

L a n o l i n a l c o h o l & m i n e r a l o i 1

L a n o l i n - X - t r a D e o d o r i z e d

L a n t h a n o l L A L F o a m i n g a g e n t

L a n t r o l L i q u i d l a n o l i n

L e x a i n e C C o c o a m i d o p r o p y l b e t a i n e

L e x a m i n e

S - 1 3

Stearami d o p r o p y l d i m e t h y l a m i n e

L e x a t e I L C o n c e n t r a t e / b l e n d

SOURCE

Koster

Koste r

A q u a l o n

A q u a l o n

K a o p o l i t e

A m e r c h o 1

H e n k e l

R i t a

R i t a

H e n k e l

H e n k e l

H e n k e 1

A m e r c h o l

R i t a

R i t a

S t e p a n

H e n k e l

I n o l e x

I n o l e x

I n o l e x

L e x a t e PX P e t r o l a t u m a n d ) l a n o l i n a l c o h o l I n o l e x

L e x e i n

QX-3000

Q u a t e r n i u m - 7 6 h y d r o l y z e d c o l l a g e n I n o l e x

L e x e m u l AR G l y c e r y l s t e a r a t e a n d ) s t e a r - I n o l e x

a m i d o e t h y l d i e t h y l a m i n e

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 524/553

502 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

RAW MATERI ALS

Lexemul C S - 2 0

Lexemul EGMS

Lexemul GDL

Lexemul

P

Lexemul T

Lexemul 55G

Lexemul 515

Lexemul

561

Lexgar d

8

Lexgar d Br onopol

Lexgar d

M

Lexgar d P

Lexol BS

Lexol EHS

Lexol GT- 865

Lexol PG

8/ 10

Lexol PG- 865

Lexol

3975

Lexor ez

100

Lexquat AMG- BE0

CHEMI CAL DESCRI PTI ON

Cet ear yl al cohol ( and) cet -

ear et h- 20

G1 ycol st ear at e

Gl ycer yl di l aur at e

Emu1

si f i

er

Gl yc er yl s t ear at e S E

Gl yc er yl s t ear at e

G 1 yc er yl s t ear at e

Gl ycer y l st ear at e ( and) PEG- 100

But yl par aben

2-bromo-2-nitropropane-l,3-diol

Met hyl par aben

Pr opyl par aben

I s obut yl s t ear at e

Oc t yl s t ear at e

Capr y l i c / capr i c t r i gl ycer i de

Emol

1 i

ent

Pr opyl ene gl yc ol di c apr yl at e/

s tea ra te

di capr at e

I s opr opyl pal m t at e ( and) i s o-

pr opy l myr i s t a t e ( and)

i so

pr opyl s t ear at e

Gl yc er i ne/ di et hyl ene gl yc ol /

Behenam dopr opyl PG di moni um

adi pat e cr osspol ymer

chl or i de

SOURCE

I nol ex

I nol ex

I nol ex

I nol ex

I nol ex

I nol ex

I nol ex

I nol ex

I nol ex

I nol ex

I nol

ex

I nol ex

I nol ex

I nol ex

I nol ex

I nol ex

I nol ex

I nol ex

I nol ex

I nol ex

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 525/553

Trade Named Raw Materials 503

RAW MATERIALS

Lexquat A M G - I S

Lime Blossom Specia l

L i p a c i d e PCO

L i p of r u i

t

Cucumber

L ip o n a te

S S

L i p o v o l A

L i p o v o l ALM

L i p o v o l P

L i popeg

100 S

L i p o x o l 600 MED

L i quapar

L i q u i d Coconut Soap,

Locron L

Lo M ic ron B lack

Lo M ic ron P ink

Lo

M i c r o n Y e l l o w

Lonzest 143/S

L u v i s k o l VA64

L u v i s k o l 1 VA73W

L u v i t o l

EHO

L y t r o n 295

CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION SOURCE

Is os te ar am i dop ro pyl -PG-di moni urn I n o l ex

c h l o r i d e

P a l m i t o y l h y d r o l y z e d an im al

p r o t e i n

S t e a r y l s t e a r a t e

N a t u r a l v e g et ab l e o i 1

Almond o i l

N a t u r a l v e g e ta b l e o i 1

P ol yo xy et hy le ne f a t t y a c i d

e s t e r

PEG- 1 2

P r e s e r v a t i v e

40%

I r o n o x i de s (and) t a l c

I r o n o xi de s ( and) t a l c

I r o n o xi de s ( and) t a l c

M y r i s t y l p r o p i on a t e

P o l y v i n y l p y r r o l i d o n e

PVP/VA copolymer

S yn th e t i c o i l

Opaci

f

r

Dragoco

L i O

L i po

L i PO

L i PO

L i PO

L i

PO

L i DO

Hul

s

S u t t o n

L a u r e l

Henkel

Whi t t a k e r

Whi t t a k e r

Whi

t t a k e r

Lonza

BASF

BASF

BASF

Morton

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 526/553

504 Cosmetic

and

Toiletry Formulations

Mac ka

Mac ka

RAW MATERIALS

Mackadet BSC

Mackadet CBC

Mackadet LCB

Mackadet SBC-8

Mackade t WGS

Mackadet 40K

Mackalene NLC

Mackal ene 116

Mackalene 316

Mackal ene 326

ene 426

ene 716

Mackam CET

Mac kam WGB

Mackam 2C

Mackam 35

Mackam 35HP

Mackami de AME-100

Mackamide C

Mackami de CMA

Mackamide CS

Mackami de LLM

CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION

Baby shampoo concentrate

C o n d i t i o n e r c o n c e n t r a t e

C o n d i t i o n e r c o n c e n t r a t e

M i I d b le n d

L a c t a t e s

Cocami do pr op yl d i me th yl ami ne

l a c t a t e

Stearami dopropy l d imethy lam i ne

1a c t a t e

Stea ramidop ropy l morpho l ine

l a c t a t e

I s o s t e a r a m i d op r o p y l m o r p h o l i n e

1a c t a t e

Wheat germami do pr op yl d i me th yl

-

ami ne 1 a c t a t e

C e t y l b e t a i ne

Wheat germamidopropyl b e t a i ne

Cocoamphodiacetate

Cocoami do pr op yl be ta

Cocoami do pr op yl b e t a

Acetamide M EA

Cocamide DEA

Cocamide MEA

Cocamide

DEA

Lauram i de DEA

ne

ne

SOURCE

McIn t y r e

M c I n t y r e

Mc I n ty r e

Mc I n t y r e

Mc I nt y r e

Mc

I

n t y e

McI n t y r e

M c I n t y r e

McI n t y r e

McIn t y r e

McI n t y r e

McIn t y r e

Mc

I

n t y r e

Mc y r e

McInt y r e

Mc I n

t

y r e

McIn t y r e

Mc y r e

Mc t y r e

Mc In t y re

Mc I nt y r e

Mc I n y r e

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 527/553

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 528/553

506 Cosmetic

and

Toiletry Formulations

RAW MATERIALS

Mackpear l L V

Mackpro NLP

Mackpro NSP

M a cks ta t DM

Macol CPS

M a c r o s p h e r i c a l

95

Magnabr i t e

M a g n a b r i t e S

Maprof x TLS-500

Marco l 70

Marcol 130

M a r i ne-Dew

Marlamide DF1218

Marlamid M1218

Marlamid PG20

M a r l a z i n KC 30/50

Mar

Mar

Mar

Mar

i n a t CM 105

i n a t DFK 30

i n a t DFN 3 0

i n a t SL 3/40

Mar l a t 242 /28

M a r l a t 242/70

Marlon PS65

CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION

Pear l agen t

N a tu r a l l i p i d p r o t e i n

01e y l p a l m i y l p a l

m i

o 1 amido-

p r o p y l / s i l k h yd r ox y pr o py l

d imoni um c h l o r i d e

DMDM h y d a n t o i n

P ol yo xy et hy le ne f a t t y e t h e r

A luminum ch lo rohyd ra te

S t a b i

1

i ng, suspend ing agent

Magnesi u m a1 umi num s i 1 a t e

T r i e t ha no la mi ne l a u r y l s u l f a t e

M in er a l o i l

M in er al o i l

P a r t i a1 1 y d e a c e t y l a t e d c h i

t i

n

Cocamide

DEA

Cocamide DEA

Cocamide

MEA

g l y c o l d i t a l l o w a t e

Cocot

r i

moni um c h l o r e

Sodium l a u r e t h - 1 1 c a r b o x y l a t e

Sodium l a u r y l s u l f a t e

Ammonium l a u r y l su l f a t e

D is od iu m l a u r e t h s u l f o s u c c i n a t e

Sodium l a u r e t h s u l f a t e

Sodium l a u r e t h s u l f a t e

So di um C13-C17 a1 kane s u l o n a t e

SOURCE

Mc In y r e

Mc I n y r e

McI

n

y r e

M c

I

n

y r e

PPG

Rehei

s

Am

C o l l o i d

Wh  

t

a ke r

Onyx

Exxon

Exxon

A j omoto

Hu l s

Hul s

Hul s

Hu ls

Hul s

Hul

s

Hul s

Hul s

Hul s

Hu ls

H u l s

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 529/553

Trade Named Raw Materials

507

RAW

M A T E R I A L S C H E M I C A L

D E S C R I P T I O N

Marlophor MOB-acid Lau ret h-3 phosphate

Mar loohor T lON a-sa l t Sodium d i s t ea re th -1 0 phosphate

Mar 1owet LMA2

Mar lowet R l I / K

Mar lowet R 4 0 / K

Marlowet TA6

Marlowet TA25

M a s i l SF-V F l u i d

Masi l 280

Masi l 656

Maypon 4C

Mazox C A P A

Mearl -AC

Merkur 1546

Merquat

100

Merquat 550

Methocel E4M

Methocel F4M

Methocel

40-

M i c r o - d r y

M i croencapsu

L a u re th -2

P E G - I 1 c as to r o i l

PEG-40 ca s t o r o i l

Ce te a re th -6

Ceteare th -25

Cyc lometh icone

D im e th i co n e co p o l yo l

S i 1 i co n e

Po ta ss i urn co co yl -hydro1 yzed

c o l 1 agen

Cocarni do pr op yl ami ne ox id e

Powdered pear l p igment

Vase1 e t y p e

Po ly qu at er n i urn-6

Pol yq u at er ni urn-7

H y dr ox y pr op yl m e t h y l c e l l u l o s e

H y d r o x y p r o p y l m e t h y l c e l l u l o s e

Hydroxypropy l methy lc e l l u l ose

A 1 umi num c h l or oh yd ra te powder

a te d V i t a m in

E

HC487

M ic ro n i ze d T i 0 2 LA-20 T i t a n i u m d i o x i d e

M ig l yo l G e l B Ca pry l i c / c a p r i c t r i g l y c e r i d e

SOURCE

Hul s

Hul s

Hul

s

Hul s

Hu ls

Hul

s

Hul s

PPG

PPG

PPG

I n o l e x

PPG

Mear l

Cal gon

Cal gon

Dow

Dow

Dovi

Rehei

s

Hul s

(and ) s t ea ra l kon ium (and)

p r o py l e ne c a rb o na t e h e c t o r i t e

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 530/553

508 Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations

RAW

MATER ALS CHEMI CAL DESCRI PTI ON

Mi gl yol

812

Capr yl c/ capr i c t r i gl yc er i de

Mi gl yol 829 Capr yl i c / c apr i c / di gl yc er yl

succ i nat e

Mi gl yol

840

Pr opy l ene gl ycol di capr yl at e

Mi ner al Col l oi d BP Mont mor i l l oni t e

Mi ner al Oi l

7

Mi ner al Oi l 9

Mi r anol C2M Conc. NP

Cocoamphocarboxyg lyc inate

M r anol Es t er PO- LM4 Pol ypent aer yt hr i t yl t et r a-

l aur at e

Mi r anol MHT Laur oamphogl yci nat e ( and)

t r i decet h

sul f at e

M r anol 2MHT Modi f i ed I m dazol i ne amphot er i c

M r asheen

202

M r at ai ne

BET

C- 30 Cocam dopr opyl bet ai ne

M r at ai ne BET 0- 30 Ol eam dopr opyl bet ai ne

Mi r at ai ne CB Sur f ace ac t i ve agent

Modul an Acet y l at ed l anol i n

Monaf ax 160 Phosphat e est er

Monaf ax 785 Phosphat e est er

SOURCE

Hul s

Hul

s

Hul s

ECC

Penr eco

Penr eco

Rhone

Rhone

Rhone

Rhone

Rhone

Rhone

Rhone

Rhone

Arne r c ho

Mona

Mona

Monamat e LNT- 40 Di ammoni um l aur yl sul f osucci nat e

Mona

Monam d CMA Cocam de MEA Mona

Monam d SOADD Cocam de DEA Mona

Monam d

7 5

Cocam de DEA Mona

Monar ni d

716

Laur am de DEA Mona

Monam d

1089

A1 kanol am de Mona

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 531/553

Trade Named Raw Materials 509

RAW MATERIALS

Monami ne

1255

Monamulse DL-1273

Monaquat T G

Monaterge

1164

M o n a t e r i c

C A B

Monateric CLV

M o n a t e r i c COAB

Mowiol 10-98

M u l s i f a n CPA

M ul s i f an RT 2 0 3 8 0

Muls i fan RT275

Mu1t i wax

W-835

Myacide

S P

M y r i t o l

PG

Myr j 52

Myr j 52s

Myvatex 60

M yvatex T e x tu r e L i t e

Myvero l

18-06

N a t r o s o l 250 HHR

N a t r o s o l 250 HR

Naturechem GMHS

CHEMICAL D E S C R I P T I O N SOURCE

A 1 kan ol ami de Mona

Mona

D ih yd ro x ye th y l d i h yd ro x yp r o p y l Mona

s tea rammon ium ch lo r ide

Sodium l a u r y l s u l f a t e (a nd ) Mona

d is od iu m l a u r y l s u l f o s u c c i n a t e

Cocami dopr opy l b e t a i ne

P o l y v i n y l a lc o h o l r e s i n

M i c r o c r y s t a l l i n e wax

2 , 4 - d i c h l o r o b e n z y l a l c o h o l

P ro py le ne g l y c o l d i c a p r y l a t e

P o l y ox e t h yl e n e s t e a r a t e

PEG-50 stearate

Emul s i i r

Emul s i f r

Hydrog en ated soy g l y c e r i d e

H yd ro xy et hy l c e l l u l o se

H y dr ox ye th yl c e l l u l o s e

Ca s to r o i l d e r i v a t i v e

Mona

Mona

Mona

Hoechst

Zschi mmer

Zschi mmer

Zschi mmer

i t c o

I n o l e x

IC1

I C 1

Eastman

Aqua l on

Aqual o n

Caschem

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 532/553

510 Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations

RAW

MATERIALS

C H E M I C A L

DESCRIPTION

N a t u r e H a r v e s t 1 6 5- 05 0 F r a g r a n c e

Neobee

M- 5

C a p r y l i c / c a p r i c t r i g l y c e r i d e

N eo H e l iopan ,

AV

O c ty l ni ethoxy c in nan ia t e

N eo H e l iopan , BB Benzophenone-3

Neo Hel iopan , Type

El 000

Neo H e l i o p a n , H yd ro P h e n y l b e n z i m i d a z o l e s u l f o n i c

a c i d

N eo H e l iopan ,

MA

M enthy l a n t h r a n i l a t e

Neo

H e l i o p a n ,

MBC

N eo H e l iopan ,

O S

Neo H e l i o p a n , 3 03 O c t o c r y l i n e

N i k k o l L e c i n o l

S- 10- M

N i k k o l

MYS- 55

PEG-55

s t e a r a t e

N i k k o l WCB

N i m l e s t e r o l

N i n o l AA-62 E x t r a Foam s t a b i l i z e r

N in ol 49-CE Cocainide

D E A

N ip as t a t P a ra b e ns

Novarome DE-47 F r a g r a n c e

Novarome DE5

1

Per f ume

Novarome F ra g r a n c e CD-69

N o v i l l e 1184504 Fr ag r a nc e

SOURCE

S t r p a n

Ha a

r ili

n

Haarman

Haarman

Ha

a

rnian

Ha

ar

ilia

n

Haarman

Ha a

r

ilia

n

Ha

a

riiian

N i k k o l

Nikko

Nikko

Malnis

t

roni

S t e p a n

S t e p a n

Nipa

Nova rome

Nova

r

oine

Novaronie

N o v i l l e

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 533/553

Trade Named Raw Materials 511

RAW MATERI ALS CHEMI CAL DESCRI PTI ON

Oct p r ox Pi r oc t one al am ne

Or gasol 2 0 0 2 D Nat ur a l Ext r a Cos Ny l on- 12

Oxaban A Pr eser vat i ve

Oxet al

VD20

Oxynex K L i qui d Ant i ox i dant

Oxynex 2004 Ant i oxi dant

Oxypon 288

Oxypon 328

Oxypon 2145

Oys t er Nut Oi l

Oz oker i t e Waxes

Oz oker i t e Waxes

Oz oker i t e Waxes

Padi mat e

Panal ane

Pant heno1

Par agon

Par cel MCX

Par i c i n 9

Par s ol

HS

Par s ol MCX

Par s ol

1789

Par s ol 5000

Oct yl di met hyl PABA

Hydr ogenat ed pol yi sobut ene

D1- Pant henol Cosmet i c Gr ade

DMDM hydant oi n ( and) met hyl

par aben

Fat t y ac i d es t er

UV- B sunsc r een

Oct yl met hoxyci nnamat e

UV- A sunsc r een

UV- B sunsc r een

SOURCE

Hoechst

At ochem

Angus

Z

chi mne r

Zs

ch mne r

Zs

ch mme r

Zsc hi mmer

Z

ch mme r

Zs chi mmer

Kos te r

I nt Wax

Kos te r

Ross

Amoco

Roche

Mc I nt yr e

Gi vaudan

CasChem

Gi vaudan

Gi vaudan

Gi vaudan

Gi vaudan

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 534/553

512

Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations

RAW

MATERI A L S

P a t i o n i c I S L

P a t i o n i c I S L / 8 5

P a t i o n i c S S L

P a t l a c I L

P a t l a c

L A

(44%)

PC 9043

PC 9044

CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION

Sodi urn o s t e a r y l 1a c t y l a t e

Sodium i s o s t e a r y l l a c t y l a t e @ 8 5 %

Sodium s t e a r o y l l a c t y l a t e

I s o s t e a ry l l a c t a t e

L a c t i c a c i d

S i

1 one emu1 s i on

S i 1

i

one emu1

si

on

PC

9045

S i

1 c o n e emu

PC 9046 S i 1 c o n e emu

PC 9047 S i 1 c o n e emu

PC 9048

S i

1 c o n e emu

PCV 1454 F rag ran ce

PEG-120 Met hyl Glu cose D i q l e a t e

s i on

s i

on

s i on

s i on

Pemulen TR-I Po lymer emul s i r

Pemulen TR-2 P o ly m e ri c emul s i

f

r

Permul g i n 3220 Custom bl en de d wax

Penreco M ine ra l O i l 9

Pep te i n 2000x1 Hyd ro ly zed co l l ag en

Pe r f ec ta USP Pe t r o la tu m

Perfume

D i

n a l aya 129,051

Perfume 44575

P e r l g l a n z m i t t e l GM 4055

Per1g l anzmi t t e l

GM

41 75

Perm ethy l 104A A1 h a t i c hydrocarbon

SOURCE

R i t a

R i t a

R i t a

R i t a

R i t a

I C 1

I C 1

I C 1

I C 1

I C 1

I C 1

R i t a

Goodr i ch

Goodr i ch

K o s t e r

Penreco

Hormel

i t c o

F r i s ch e

Zsch i mmer

Zsch i mmer

Pe rme

t

h y 1

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 535/553

Trade Named Raw Materials

513

RAW

MATERIALS CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION

P e r t Type 189-724 Frag ranc e

P e t r o l a t u m A l b a

Per1 g l anzmi t t e l GM4175

Phenoni p

Phos fe ta l 201 K

Phosphol i d EFA B iom ime t i c ph os ph o l ip id

Phosphol i d PTC B i omi me t i c phos phol i d

P h o s p h o l i p i d

SV

B i omi met phosphol i d

Ph os ph ot er ic PTC

P ho sp ho te ri c QL-38 T r is od iu m lauroampho PG

a c e t a t e p ho sp ha te c h l o r i d e

Pigment

p a s te w h i t e :

N r .

93975

P igment pa s t e ye l l ow : N r . 75577

Pigment

p a s t e r e d :

N r .

68775

Pigment

p a s te b l a c k : N r . 78375

P l u r o n i c F-127 P o l y o x y a l k y l e n e g l y c o l b l o c k

po lymer

PNC

400 Sodi

urn carbomer

Pol awax E m u l s i f y i n g wax NF

Polawax A - 3 1 Em u l s i f y i n g wax NF

P o l y a l d o 10-1-5 P o l y g l y c e r y l - I O s t e a r a t e

Po l ya l do

10-6-0

P o l y g l y c e r y l - 1 0 h e x a o l e a t e

Polymer J R 400

P o l y o x WSR Wate r so lub

Po lyqu ta -400 Po lyqua te rn

P o l y q u t a 3000 P o l y q u a t e r n

e r e s i n

u m I O

urn-10

SOURCE

i t c o

Zsch i mmer

Ni pa

Zsch i mmer

Mona

Mona

Mona

Mona

Mona

B A S F

3v

Croda

Croda

Lonza

Lonza

Union Carb

Union Carb

R i t a

R i t a

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 536/553

514 Cosmetic and Toiletry

Formulations

RAW MATERIALS

P o l y s o r b a t e 60

Pol ys yn l ane

P r i s o r i n e 3505

P r i s o r i n e 3515

P r i s o r i ne 9083

P r o c e t y l AWS

Prodew 100

Promoi s W-32

Promoi s

WK

Promoi s

WK-HQ

CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION

P o l y o x y e t h y l e n e

(20)

s o r b i t a n

monosteara te

Hyd ro g e n a te d p o l y i so b u te n e

G1 y c e r i ne

G1 y c e r e

G1y c e r i e

PPG-5 C e t e t h 20

S o r b i t o l

&

Sod ium Lacta te &

P r o l i n e & Sodium PCA &

Hyd ro l yze d Co l l a g e n

H y d r o l y z e d c o l l a g e n

H y dr o ly z ed k e r a t i n

Hyd ro xyp ro p y l t

r i

moni um

hydro1y ze d k e r a t i n

SOURCE

I C 1

P o l y e s t h e r

Un i chema

Unichema

Uni chema

Croda

A j omoto

R i t a

R

R

Promulgen D C e t e a r y l Alcohol(and)Ceteareth-20

t a

t a

Ame r cho 1

Promyr i s t y l PM3 PPG-3 my r i s t y l e t he r

P ron a la n A n t i c e l l u l i t e

P r o p e l l a n t A-46 H y dr oc ar bo n p r o p e l l a n t

P r o p o l i s Wax

P r o t o p e t

1s

P e t r o l a t u m

Pro tope t 2A Pe t r o la tu m

Pr o to x T-25 Eth oxy l a t e d ami ne

Purasal S/SP

60%

Sodi u m l a c t a t e

Pur . Navy B lue 7110

Pu r Oxy Ye l l o w BC & Pur Oxy B la c k BC Pig me nt

Croda

Cen t e r chem

K o s t e r

i t c o

i

c o

Protomeen

Purac Amer

Whi t t a k e r

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 537/553

Trade Named Raw Materials 515

RAW MATERIALS

Pu r to n

CFD

Pu r to n SFD

PVP-K-30 PV P

Pyro te r CPI-40

Pyro te r GPI-25

Raluben TL

Resyn 26-1 314

Resyn 28-291 3

Resyn 28-2930

Rewomi d S-280

Rezal 36G

Rezal 36GP

Rheo la te 5000

Rhodacal A-246/L

Rhodapex MA-360

Rhodapon L-22

Rhodapon L S B

Rhodapon LT 6

Rhodapon SB

8208/S

Rhodapon

21

L S

Rhodi ge l

CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION SOURCE

Zsch i mmer

Zsch i mmer

ISP

A j omoto

A j i omoto

Ha i r sp ra y p o l ym e r

H a i r sp ra y p o lym er

Ha i r sp ra y p o l ym e r

A1 Z r t e t r a c h l o r o h y dr e x , g l y

A 1

Z r

t e t r a c h lo r o h y d r ex , g l y

Super u l t r a f i n e ,

Acry la te /Va copo lymer

E th er s u l f a t e

A1 k y l s u l f a t e

A1 k y l s u l f a t e

A1 k y l s u l f a t e

A1 k y l s u l f a t e

A1 k y l s u l f a t e

Xanthan gum

Rhodorsi 1 O i 1s 70041 V O .

65

Rh o d o rs i l

700

45V2 Cyclomethicone

Raschi g

Na t S ta rch

Na t S ta rch

Na t S ta rch

Rewo

Rehei s

Rehei

s

Rehei s

Rhone

Rhone

Rhone

Rhone

Rhone

Rhone

Rhone

V a n d e r b i l t

Rhone

Rhone

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 538/553

5 6

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

RAW

MATERIALS CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION

SOURCE

Rice B ra n O i l F i l t e r e d K os te r

R i t a b a t e 20

R i a-BTAC

R i t a

C A

R i

t a c e t

2 0

R i a - C e t e a r y l 70 /30

R i a c e t i

R i

a c e t y l

R i a c h o l

R i t a c h o l I 0 0 0

R i tacho l 2000

R i a c h o l 5000

R i a-CTAC

R i aderm

R i t a EGDS

R i a EGMS

R i t a GC

R i t a

GMS

R i a h y d r o x

R i a l an

R i t a l a n AWS

R i t a l a n

C

R i t a l a s t i n EL30

Po l y so rb a te 20

Be he nt r moni um c h l

o r

e

C e t y l a l c o h o l

Ce tea re th -20

C e t e a r y l a l c o h o l

C e t y l e s t e r s

A c e t y l a t e d

1

anol n

M in er a l o i l and l a n o l i n

R i t a

R i t a

R i t a

R i t a

R i t a

R i t a

R i t a

a l c oh o l R i t a

R i t ae t e a r y l a l c o h o l ( an d) p o l y -

s o r b a t e 60 (and) PEG-150

s t e a r a t e ( a nd ) s t e a r e th - 2 0

R . T . A . b l e n d

R . I . T . A . b l e n d

C e t r i m o n i u m c h l o r i d e

P e t r o l a t u m ( a n d )

sodiu m PCA (a nd)

G l yc o l d i s t e a r a t e

G l y c ol s t e a r a t e

G u a n id i n e ca rb o n a te

G l y c e r y l s t e a r a t e

Hydroxy la ted 1anol n

a n o l i n ( a n d

p o l y s o r b a t e

L a n o l i n o i

PPG-12-PEG

R . I . T . A . b

Hydro1yzed

65 l a n o

end

e l a s t i n

i n o i l

R i t a

R i t a

R i t a

R i t a

85

R i t a

R i t a

R i t a

R i t a

R i t a

R i t a

R i t a

R i t a

R i t a

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 539/553

Trade Named Raw Materials 5

7

RAW MATERIALS

R i t a l o e

4 O X

Rita loe 200M

R i t a m i d e C

R i t a p a n D

Ri ta pa n DL

R i apeg 1500s

R i

aphenone

3

Ri ta p ro 1 6 5

R i t a p r o 200

R i t a SA

R i a-SBC

R i a-STAC

R i t a s y n t IP

R i

avena-5

R i

awax

Ritawax ALA

R i t o l e t h 5

R i t o l e t h - 1 0

R i to x 3 5

Robane

Rosemary Sp ec i a1

Rosswaxes

CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION

A l o e v e r a g e l

A l o e v e r a g e l

Cocamide DEA

d-Pantheno l

d l - P a n t h e n o l

PEG-150 d i s te ar a t e

Benzophenone-3

R , I . T . A . b l e n d

R . I . T . A . b l e n d

S t e a r y l a l c o h o l

S t e a r a l konium c h l o r i d e

S t e a r t r i moni um c h l o r i d e

G l y c o l s t e a r a t e a nd o t h e r s

H yd ro ly ze d o a t f l o u r

L an ol n a l c o h o l

R . I . T . A . b l e n d

O le th -5

01e th -10

Laure th -23

Squal ane

Waxes

SOURCE

R i t a

R i t a

R i t a

R i t a

R i t a

R i t a

R i t a

R i t a

R i t a

R i t a

R i t a

R i t a

R i t a

R i t a

R i t a

R i t a

R i t a

R i t a

R i t a

Robeco

Dragoco

Ross

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 540/553

518

Cosmetic

and Toiletry Formulations

RAW MATERI ALS CHEMI CAL DESCRI PTI ON

Sal on 169- 122 Fr agr ance

Sandopan DTC Ac i d Tr i decet h- 7- car boxyl i c ac i d

Sandobet SC Cocam dopr opyl hydr oxysul t ai ne

Sandoxyl at e SX- 424 PPG- 2- i sodecet h- 12

Set ac i n 103 Spec i al

SF 18 ( 350) s i l i cone Di met hi cone

Shea But t er

Shebu Shea but t er

Shebu WS PEG- 50 shea but t er

Shel l s ol T Pet r ol eum di st i at es

Shel l s ol

71

Pet r o l eum di s t i l l at es

Si comet Bl ack

80

C. I . 77499

Si comet Br own 70 C. I . 77491

Si comet Br own 75 C. I . 77491

Si comet Pat ent bl au BOE 131 Pat ent Bl ue

Si

i

cone 200/ 100

Si l i cone F l ui d DC- 200 ( 200 cps )

Si l i c one Fl ui d 225

Si l i c one Fl ui d 344 and 345 ( Vol at i l e)

S ki ence Type 169- 120 Fr agr ance

Si

i

cony1 Beeswax

Si l t ex

- 50 + o0

Mesh Fused s i l i ca

Si mchi

n

Ref ned J oj oba oi l

Si pon

ES

Sodi um l aur yl et her s ul f at e

SOURCE

Sandoz

Sandoz

Sandoz

Zschi mm-

Dow Cor n

Koster

Ri t a

Ri t a

Shel

Shel

BASF

BASF

BASF

BASF

Dow Cor n

Dow Cor n

Dow Cor n

Dow Cor n

Koster

Kaopol

Ri t a

Rhone

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 541/553

Trade Named Raw Materials 519

S o f t

S o f t

S o f t

RAW MATERIALS

Sipon ES-2

Sipon ESY

S i ponate DD8-40

Sipon L C P

SL 79-1224

S o f t i g e n

701

S o f t i g e n

767

san

100

san 154

san 378

S o f t i s a n 601

So f t i sa n 6 4 5 & 649

Solar Chem

S o l t r o l 100

Solulan PB5

So lu l a n 1 6

So lu lan 25

S o l u l a n 98

S o l u v i t CLR

CHEMICAL D E S C R I P T I O N

Sodium l a u r e t h s u l f a t e

A1 k y l a r y l s u l f o n a t e

Sodium l a u r y l s u l f a t e

Herba l f rag rance

G ly ce ry l r i c i n o l e a t e

PEG-6 ca p r y l / c ap r i c g l y-

c e r i d es

Hydrogena ted coco -g lyce r ides

Hydrog en ated pa lm o i l

C apr yl i c / c a p r i c / s t e a r i c

t r i g l y c e r i d e

G ly ce ry l co co a te (a nd ) h yd ro -

g en ated cocoa nu t o i l ( a nd )

ce te a re th -2 5

B i s - d i g l y c e r y l c a p ry l a te /

caprate/isostearate/hydroxy-

s t e a r a t e a d i p a t e

~ 9 - 1 1s o p a r a f f i n

SOURCE

Rhone

Rhone

Rhone

Rhone

PFW

Hul s

Hul s

Hu ls

Hu l s

Hul

s

Hu ls

Hul s

Caschem

Phi 11 p s

A1 koxy l a ted 1 ano l d e r i v a t i v e Amercho l

Laneth-16 & c e t e t h 1 6

&

Arne r cho 1

o l e t h - 1 6 & s t e a r e t h - 1 6

Laneth-25 & c e t e t h - 2 5 & Amer c ho1

o l e t h - 2 5 & s t e a r e t h - 2 5

P o l y s o r b a t e 80, ace ty la ted Amercho l

1 anol i a1 coho1

,

c e t y l

a c e t a t e

CLR

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 542/553

520 Cosmetic

and

Toiletry Formulations

RAW MATERIALS

Sorbo

Span

60

Span 65

Span

80

Spermwax

S pi c y Lime 4851-AN

S & P Wh i te NF 422P

S&P

1

Yel low 73

S & P 18

S & P

75

Span 40

CHEMICAL D E S C R I P T I O N

S or bi t o 1 s o l u t i on,

U S P

E m u l s i f y i n g a g e n t

E m u l s i f y i n g a g e n t

Emu1 s i y i ng agen t

Syn th e t i c sp e rm a ce t i

Fragrance

Beeswax

Carnauba wax

M i c r o c r y s t a l 1 e wax

Candel 11a wax

S o r b i t a n monopalmi t a t e

Standapo

Standapo

Standapo

E S - 2 Sodi um

ES-3 Sodi urn

WAQ-LC Sodi urn

Squeeky Clean 165-047 Fragrance

Standapo l

E A - 2

Ammonium la u r e t h s u l f a t e

Standapol E S - I Sodium l a u r e t h s u l f a t e

a ur e t h- 2 s u l f a t e

a ur et h- 3 s u l f a t e

a u r y l s u l f a t e

Stepano l AM Ammonium l a u r y l s u l f a t e

S t i n g i n g N e t t l e S pe ci al

Super Corona Lux ury USP l a n o l i n

Supe rsat AWS-4 PEG-20 hydr ogen ated l a n o l i n

Syncrowax

E R C L

C18-36 a c i d g l y c o l e s t e r

Syncrowax HGLC C1B-36 a c i d t r i g l y c e r i d e

S i l i c o n O i l AK500

SOURCE

I C 1

IC1

IC1

I C 1

Robeco

I F F

I C 1

Henkel

Hen k e l

Henkel

Henkel

Henkel

Stepan

Dragoco

Croda

R i t a

Croda

Croda

sws

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 543/553

Trade Named Raw Materials

521

RAW M A T E R I A L S CHEMICAL D E S C R I P T I O N

SOURCE

Sipon

E S 2

Sodium l a u re th s u l f a t e Rhone

Sedermasome Soy l e c i t h i n

S M D I Pol yo1 prep01ymer -2 PPG- 12

So f t i sa n 3 7 8

Sol u lan-75

Spectrapear l BLG

S p e c t r a v e i l

TG

Sp e c t ra ve i

1

9O/MOTG

SS4267

Standamid K O

Standamide

T

Standapol ES-l&ES-2

Standapol ES-3

Standapo T

Standapo

WAQ&WAQ-SP

Sul f e t a l KT400

Su l fe ta l TC50

Sunarome OMC

Super Amide

L-9

Super H ar to l an

C a p r y l i c / c a p r i c / s t e a r i c Hul s

t r i g l y c e r i d e

PEG 7 5 l a n o l i n Arne r c ho

1

Pear l escen t p igmen t I S P

U l t r a - f i n e ZnO T i o x i de

U l t r a - f i n e Zn0(40% s o l i d s D i s p ) T i o x i d e

D i meth one and

t

r methy l -

s i l o x y s i l i c a t e

Cocamide

D E A

Tea ls

Sodi um l a u r e t h s u l f a t e

Sodi um l a u r e t h s u l f a t e 2890

T EA -l au ry l s u l f a t e

Sodium l a u r y l s u l f a t e

Coconut f a t t y a c i d d i e t h a n o l

ami de

L a n o l i n a l c o h o l

GE S i l i c o n e

Henkel

Henkel

Henkel

Henkel

Henkel

Henkel

Zschi mmer

Zschi mmer

F e l o n

Onyx

Croda

Super R ef in e d Babassu O i l

Super R e f i n e d Wheat Germ

O i l

Super S t e r o l Es te r C10-30 Ch o le s te ro l / L a n e s t e ro l Es te r s

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 544/553

522 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

SOURCE

AW MATERIALS CHEMICAL D E S C R I P T I O N

Super Whi te Pe t ro la t um U S P

S u t t o c i d e

A

Sod i um hydroxymethy l g l y c i na t e Su t to n

Syncrowax

A w l - C

S y n th e t i c wax Croda

Syncrowax HGL-C C18-36 a c i

d t r i

g l yc er e Croda

S y n t h e t i c Beeswax JH-1508 Ross

T A B S - D

Tagat

S

Takasago

Ta lc Supra

A

Tamol N

Tapioca F1o u r

Teg in M

Tegin T4753

Tego beta i ne L-7

Teg. P

Tenox & Tenox 4

Tenox BHA

Tensagex EOC-670

Te rg i t o 1 NP-10

T e r r y AGO02

T i caxan

Timbuktu 0/186901

T i m i

r o n MP-10

G l y c e r y l s t e a r a t e

Organ i c emu1 s i

f r

Cocami dop rop yl b e t a i ne

A n t i o x i d a n t

BHA

S u r f a c t a n t

A lo e ve ra g e l

Xanthan gum

Fragrance

I n t e r f e r e n c e p i g m e n t

Union Camp

Goldschmid to l ub i

1

er

Fragrance

Premium t a l c , coar se ground Cyprus

Dispersant Rohm&Haas

Na t S ta rch

Go1 dschmi d t

Go1 dschmi d t

Go ldschmid t

Go1 dschmi d t

Eastman

Eastman

I C 1

Union Carb

T e r r y

T i c Gums

Rona Pearl

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 545/553

Trade Named Raw Materials 523

RAW MATERIALS CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION

Ti in i r on

P e a r l

S h e e n MP-30 I n t e r f e r e n c e P i gm e n t

T i m ir o n S u p e r Red I n t e r f e r e n c e P i gm e nt

T i o v e i i AQ/FIN/MOTG U l t r a - f i n e t i t a n i u m d i o x i d e

TL- 10

PEG-20 s o r b i t a n m o n o l a u r a t e

T o c o p h e r o l

Toiiiah A 0 - 7 2 8 S p e c i a l

T r i i s o l S o l u b le w h e a t p r o t e i n

Tr iven t N P- 13

&

SS-20 T r i d e c y l n e o p e n ta n o a te

T r y c o l 5 9 6 3 Este r

Tween

2

P o l y s o r b a t e

2 0

Tween

4 0

P o l y s o r b a t e

4 0

Tween 6 0 P o l y s o r b a t e 6 0

Tween 6 1 P o l y o xy e t h y l e n e s o r b i t a n

iiionos t e a r a t e

Tween

8 0

P o l y s o r b a t e

8 0

Tween

8 1

P o l y o xy e t h y l e n e s o r b i t a n

inonoolea

t e

Tween 8 5 E m u l s i f y i n g a g e n t

U n i p e r t a n P 2 4

Usnat A0

U v i n u l

E 40

U v i n u l

M S 4 0

U v i n u l

0-18

A n t i - d a n d r u f f

Benzophenone-3

Benzophenone-4

O c ty l s a l i c y l a t e

SOURCE

Rona

Rona

T i o x i d e

R i t a

Tomah

Croda

T r i v e n t

H enke l

I C 1

I C 1

I C1

I C 1

I C 1

I C 1

I C 1

L i p 0

BASF

BASF

BASF

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 546/553

524

Cosmetic

and

Toiletry Formulations

RAW MATERIALS

Vancl ay

Van Gel B

Vanox PCX

Vanseal CS

Vanseal NACS-30

Vansael NALS-30

Veegurn/F/HV/Pro/

Regul ar/U1 t r a

Velsan P8-3

Veragel

Verage l

Verage l

Ve rsa t y

Versene

L i q u i d

L i q u id 1 : l

2 0 0

Powder

-42

N A

Versene-220

CHEMICAL

D E S C R I P T I O N

K a o l i n

BHT

S a rc o si na t e s u r f a c t a n t

Sodi urn c o c oy l s a r c o s i n a t e

S a rc o si na t e s u r f a c t a n t

Magnesi u m a1 umi nurn s i 1 a t e

Is op ro py l C12-15 Pare th -9-

Ca rb o xy l a t e

A l o e v e r a g e l

A l o e v e r a g e l

A l o e v e r a

H a i r s p r a y PO

D i so d i urn E D T A

C h e l a t i n g a g e n t

ymer

V i t a m i n A P a l m i t a t e Type PIMO/BH

V i t a m i n E Tocophero l

V i t a m i n E Ace ta te T o co p he rol a ce ta t e

V o l a t i l e S i l i c o n e 7207 C y cl om et hi co ne

Volpo 3 01 eth -3

Volpo 5 01 et h- 5

Vo lpo s -2 S tea re th -2

V O l D O

s-10

S te a re th -1 0

SOURCE

Vanderb i 1t

V a n d e r b i l t

Vanderb i 1t

V a n d e r b i l t

V a n d e r b i l t

V a n d e r b i l t

V a n d e r b i l t

Sandoz

D r .

Madis

D r . Madis

D r .

Madis

Na t S ta rch

Dow

Dow

Croda

Croda

Croda

Croda

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 547/553

Trade Named Raw Materials 525

RAW

MATERIALS

Wachsemulsion 1864

Wheat Germ O i l

Wh i te Jo j o b a O i l

Wh i te P ro to p e t

Wh i te P ro to p e t I S

Wickenol 163

Wickenol 386

i

t c o n a t e AOS

Ye l lo w BC I r o n Oxides

2-Cote

Z e te so l

MS

Z e te so l N L

Zetesol 856T

Zeteso l 2056

Zuso l a t 1005/85

CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION SOURCE

Zschi mmer

R i t a

Ross

P e tr o la tu m P e t r o l e

P e tr o la tu m P e t r o l e

D io c t y l a d i p a t e (a nd ) o c t y l Caschem

s t e a r a t e ( and ) o c t y l p a l m i t a t e

Alumi num z i r c o n i um t e t r a - Caschem

c h l o r o h y d r e x G l y

Sodium C14-16 o l e f i n s u l f o n a t e W i t c o

Warner

Sun Smart

Zschimmer

Zschi mmer

Zschimmer

Zschi mmer

Zsch i mmer

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 548/553

Section

XIV

Suppl iers Addresses

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 549/553

Suppliers Addresses 527

A j i n o m o t o USA , I n c .

G l e n p o i n t

C t r . W

500

Frank W B u r r B l v d .

Teaneck, NJ 07645

201) - 907- 3244

Akzo Chemica ls , I n c .

300

S .

R i v e r s i d e P l az a

Chicago,

I L

60606

312) - 906- 7500

A l l i e d S ig n a l , I n c .

P . O . Box

2332R

M o rr i s town, NJ

07962

201) - 455- 2000

A l p in e A ro m at i c s I n t ' l I n c .

51 E t h e l

R d . W

Piscataway, NJ 08854

908) - 572- 5600

Amerchol Corp.

P . O .

Box

4051

136

Talmadge Rd.

Edison, NJ

08818

908) - 248- 6000

Amer ican C o l l o i d Co.

Hwy

212W

B e l l e F o u r c h e , S D 57717

A m e r i c a n L e c i t h i n

Co

33 Turner Rd.

P . O .

Box

1908

Danbury, CT 06813

605) - 892- 2591

203) - 790- 2700

Amoco Chemical

C o

200 E Randolph

D r .

Chicago,

I L

60601

312)-856-3200/ 800)-621-4567

Angus Chemical Co.

1500 E .

Lake Cook Rd.

B u f f a l o Grove, I L

60089

708)-215-8600/ 800)-323-6209

Aqua1

on

1313

N .

Market S t .

Wi l m i n g t o n , D E 19899

302)-594-5000/ 800)-345-8104

Atochem N o r th Amer ica

900

M i l k

S t .

C a r t a r e t , N J

07008

908) 541 - 4414

BASF Corp.

100 Ch e r r y

H i l l

Rd.

P a rs i ppany, NJ 07054

( 201 ) -316 -3000 / (800 ) -526 -1072

Bern e l Chemical Co . , I n c .

174

Grand Ave.

Englewood, NJ 07631

201) - 569- 8934

B rooks I n d u s t r i e s , I n c .

70

T y l e r P la c e

S ou th P l a i n f i e l d , NJ

07080

908) - 561- 5200

Buckman L a b o r a to r i e s I n t ' l I n c .

1256 N . McLean Blvd.

Memphis, TN 38108

901)-278-0330/ 800)-727-2772

Cabot Corp.

Cab-0-Si

1 D i

v .

R t e . 36W

T us co la , I L 61953

217)-253-3370/ 800)-222-6745

Calgon Corp.

P . O . Box

1346

P i t t s bu rg h , PA

15230

41 2) 777- 8000

CasChem, I n c .

40 Avenue

A

Bayonne, NJ

07002

201)-858-7900/ 800)-CAS-CHEM

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 550/553

5 8 Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations

Cente rchem, I n c .

225

High R idge

R d .

Sta mf or d, CT

06905

203) - 975- 9800

C i

ba-Gei gy Cor p.

410

Swing Rd.

Greensboro, NC 27419

919) - 632- 7327/ 800) - 221- 0453

CLE I n c .

11220

Grader

S t ,

D a l l a s ,

T X 75238

214) - 341- 4949/ 800) - 638- 7947

CLR: D r .

K .

R i c h t e r GmbH

Chemi sche s L a b o r a t o r i um

Be n n i g o n s t r a b e 25,

D -I00 0 B e r l i n

Cro d a , I n c .

7

Ce n t u r y

D r .

Pa rs i p p a n y ,

N J 07054

201) - 644- 4900

C y c l o P r od u ct s I n c .

1922

E .

64

S t .

Los Angeles,

CA

90001

21 3) 582- 641

C ypru s I n d u s t r i a 1 M i n e r a l s

P.0, Box 3419

Englewood,

CO

80155

800) - 325- 0299

Degussa Corp.

65

Ch a l l e n g e r

R d .

R i d g e f i e l d P ar k,

N J

07660

201) - 641 - 61

00

Dow Chemical USA

2 0 2 0

Dow Center

M i d l a n d ,

M I 48674

800)-258-CHEM

Dow C o rn in g Co rp.

Box 0994

M i d l a n d , M I 48686

51

7 )

- 496- 4000

Dra g o c o , I n c .

10 G o rd e n Dr i v e

Totowa, NJ 07512

201) - 256- 3850

Eastman Chemical

Co

P . O . Box 431

K i ng sp or t , TN 37662

615) - 229- 4006/ 800j - EASTMAN

ECC America

5775

Peachtree-Dunwoody

R d .

A t l a n t a ,

GA

30342

800) - 843- 3222

Exxon Chemi c a l Amer ca s

13501

Katy Frwy

Houston, T X 77079

~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ o ~ o o o

Fann ing Corp .

2450 W

Hubbard

S t

C hic ag o, I L 60612

312) - 563- 1234

F e l t o n W o rl dw i de

599 Johnson Ave.

B r o o k l y n ,

NY

11237

F i n e t ex , I n c .

418 Falmouth Ave.

Elmwood Park, N J 07407

201 - 797- 4686

F l o r i d a Food P ro d u ct s I n c .

2231 W

Hwy

44

Eu s t i s , FL

32726

904) - 357- 4141

F r i t s c h e Dodge O l c o t t I n c .

76

N i n t h A ve.

New York, NY 10011

212)-929-4100/ 800)-221-7095

GE

S i

1 c o n e s

260

Hudson River

R d .

W at er fo rd , NY

12188

518) - 237- 3330/ 800) - 255- 8886

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 551/553

Suppliers Addresses 5 9

Givaudan-Roure Corp.

100 Delawanna Ave.

C l i f t o n ,

N J

07015

(201)-365-8000

Go1 dschmi d t Chemical Co rp.

914 E . Randolph Rd.

Hopewel l ,

VA

23860

( 8 0 4 ) - 5 4 1 - 8 6 5 8 / ( 8 0 0 ) - 4 4 5 - 1 8 0 9

B . F .

Goodr i ch

Co .

991 1 Br ec ks v i 1 e Rd.

C le v e la n d , OH 44141

( 216 ) -447 -5000 / (800 ) -331 -1144

Haarman Reimer Co rp .

60 Diamond Rd.

S p r i n g f i e l d ,

N J

07091

( 201 ) -912 -5707 / (800 ) -432 -1559

Hampshi r e Chemi c a l Co.

55

Hayden Ave.

L e x i n g t o n ,

MA

02173

Henkel Corp.

11501 Nor th lake

D r .

C i

n c i n n a t i , OH 45299

( 5 1 3 ) - 5 3 0 - 7 3 0 0 / ( 8 0 0 ) - 5 4 3 - 7 3 7 0

Hoechst Cel anese Corp .

3340

W

N o r f o l k R d .

Por tsmouth , VA 23703

(804) -483-7530/ (800) -526-4960

Hormel

P.O. Box 800

A u s t i n , MN 55912

H u l s A m er ic a, I n c .

8 0 Ce n t e n n i a l

D r .

P i scataway, NJ 08854

Humko Chemical D i v .

W i t c o Co rp .

755 Crossover Lane

Memphis, TN 38117

(901)-684-7047

(507)-437-5676

(908 ) -980 -6946 / (800 ) -526 -0339

I C 1

A m e r i c a s I n c .

Con cord P ik e New Murphy Rd.

W i l m i

ng ton ,

DE

19897

3 0 2 ) - 5 7 5 - 3 0 3 4 / 8 0 0 ) - 8 2 2 - 8 2 1 5

I k e d a Co rp .

New Me xico B ld g . 3-1,

Mar unou ch 3-Chome

Chiyoda-Ku, Tokyo 100, Japan

03-321 2-8791

I n o l e x Chemica l Co.

Jackson Swanson S t s .

P h i l a d e lp h ia , PA 19148

( 2 1 5 ) - 2 7 1 - 0 8 0 0 / ( 8 0 0 ) - 5 2 1 - 9 8 9 1

ISP: I n t e r n a t i o n a l S p e c i a l t y Pro d

1361 Alps Rd.

Wayne, NJ 07470

( 2 0 1 ) - 6 2 8 - 3 0 0 0 / ( 8 0 0 ) - 8 4 8 - 7 6 5 9

I F F : I n t e r n a t i o n a l F l av o rs

Frag rances

521

W 5 7

S t .

New Yo rk , NY 10019

(212)-765-5500

K a o p o l i t e I n c .

2444 M o r r i s Ave .

Union, NJ 07083

(908)-789-0609

K e lc o D i v .

Merck Co. , I n c .

8 3 5 5 Ae ro D r i v e

San D ie go, CA 92123

( 619 ) -292 -4900 / (800 ) -535 -2656

Kos te r -Keunen , Inc .

P.O. Box 447

90

Bourne B l vd .

S a y v i l l e , NY 11782

(516) -589-0456

L a na e te x P r o d u c t s , I n c .

151

3

Ave.

E l i zabe th , NJ 07206

(908)-351-9700

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 552/553

53

Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations

L a ur e l I n d u s t r i e s , I n c .

29525

C h a g r i n B l v d .

C l e v e l a n d ,

OH 44122

216)-831-5747/ 800)-221-1304

L i p 0 C he mi ca ls , I n c .

207

1 9t h Ave.

Paterson, NJ

07504

201)-345-8600

L o n z a , I n c .

17-17

Rt e .

208

F a i r Lawn, NJ

07410

201)-794-2400/ 800)-777-1875

D r .

M a d i s L a b s I n c .

375

H u y l e r

S t .

So uth Hackensack, NJ

07606

M c I n t y r e Group L t d .

1000

Governors Hwy.

U n i v e r s i t y Park, I L

60466

201)-440-5000

708)-534-6200

Mear l Corp .

41

E.

42

S t .

New York,

NY

10017

21 )-573-8500

Mobay Corp.

Mobay

R d .

P i t t s b u r gh , PA

15205

Mona I n d u s t r i e s , I n c .

76

E .

24

St.

P . O . Box

425

Paterson, NJ

07544

412)-777-2000/ 800)-662-2927

201)-345-8220

M o r f l e x I n c .

2110

High Po in t Rd .

Greensboro, NC

27403

919)-292-1781

Morton I n t e r n a t i o n a l , I n c .

150

Andover

S t .

Danvers,

MA 01923

508)-774-3100

Na t i on a l S t a r ch Chemica l Co

10

F inderne Ave .

Br idgewate r , NJ

08807

908)-685-5000/ 800)-532-1115

N ip a L a b o r a to r i e s , I n c .

104

Ha g l e y B l d g .

Con cord P1 aza

3411

S i l v e r s i d e Rd.

W i l m i n g t o n , DE

19810

302)-478-1522

Novarome I n c .

30

Stewar t P1 ,

F a i r f i e l d , NJ

07004

201)-575-4550

N o v i l l e E s se n t i a l

O i l

Co.

1312

F i f t h S t .

N or th Bergen, NJ

07047

201)-867-9060

Pen re co

138

P e t r o l i a

S t .

Karns C i t y , PA

16041

412)-283-5600/ 800)-245-3952

P e t r o l i t e Corp .

6910

E .

14 S t .

Tu l s a ,

OK 74112

91 8 ) 836-1 01

P h i l l i p s

66

Co.

376

P h i l l i p s B l dg . Annex

B a r t 1e s v i 11e, OK

74004

806)-274-5236/ 800)-858-4327

Po l y e s t h e r Co rp .

61 H i l l

S t .

P . O .

Drawer

5076

Southampton,

NY 11969

516)-2a3-4400

PPG I n d u s t r i e s

3938

P o r e t t D r i v e

G urne e, I L

60031

708)-244-3410/ 8OO)-CHEM-PPG

7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/cosmetic-and-toiletry-formulations-volume-4-2nd-edition 553/553

Suppliers Addresses

531

Purac Amer ica I n c .

B a r c l a y B l v d .

L i n c o l n s h i r e C o r p o r at e C e nt er

L i nc o ln s h i r e , I L

60069

708)-634-6330

Raschi g Corp .

P . O . Box

7656

Richmond,

VA 23231

804)-222-9516

Re h e i s , I n c ,

Rona

EM I n d u s t r i e s

S k y l i n e D r i v e

Hawthorne,

NY 10532

914)-592-4660

Sandoz Chemi c a l

s

Corp.

4000

Monroe

R d .

C ha r l o t te , NC

28205

704)-331-7234/ 800)-631-8077

S h e l l Chemical Co.