Cosmeceuticals 2020 Exploring the space where Cosmetics meet Pharmaceuticals

• Features the latest consumer healthcare sales data from Nicholas Hall’s global database DB6 and other sources, with sales to end-2019

• Scopes the Cosmeceuticals field in 10 major markets, charting new product activity, innovations in ingredients and formats, promotional activity and more

• Tracks developments in core DB6 categories such as Hair & beauty supplements, Acne remedies, Hair loss treatments, Lip care and Scar treatments, and investigates aesthetic treatments and anti-ageing products

• Highlights emerging segments such as personalisation, diagnostic apps, probiotics for skin care and CBD-infused cosmeceuticals

• Includes forecasts to 2024 & 2029 for each market profiled, plus short-term forecasts to 2020 & 2021

Key features

Cosmeceuticals 2020Exploring the space where Cosmetics meet Pharmaceuticals

Defining CosmeceuticalsAlthough the term “cosmeceuticals” is not generally recognised by OTC or cosmetics regulators as a specific classification, it is popularly used to describe products which bridge the gap between cosmetics and OTCs. Essentially, cosmeceuticals are skincare products with known biologically active compounds claimed to have a medicinal and aesthetic effect, available in both topical and systemic formats.

Products covered in this report include:Acne remedies • Aesthetic treatments† • Anti-ageing† • Eczema & psoriasis • Hair & beauty supplements

• Hair loss treatments • Lip care • Scar treatments (within Wound healers)† DB6 sales data not available for these categories

Brazil JapanChina PolandFrance S Korea

Cosmeceuticals sales performed well in 2019 thanks to increasing beauty and health consciousness among consumers, plus marketers capitalising on the popularity of products offering both aesthetic and therapeutic benefits. Many successful players span the spectrum from cosmetics to OTC-registered derma products to Rx skincare solutions. Brands in this space can command premium prices; novel formats, new ingredients and scientific backing are all key selling points. A sharp rise in product launches among aesthetic treatments and hair & beauty supplements points to heightened awareness and demand. Consumers are increasingly recognising that there is no “one size fits all” when it comes to beauty and skincare, with personalisation a trend that looks set to run. Male personal care is increasingly well represented, and remains a flourishing segment, including anti-ageing and toning. Nevertheless, cosmeceuticals sales will take a hit in 2020 as consumers cut back on non-essential purchases amid the tougher economic climate brought about by the Covid-19 outbreak and shift in consumer priorities, although sales are expected to bounce back.

Germany UKItaly USA

10 major markets covered

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Cosmeceuticals 2020

Execu&veSummary–EmergingSegments

Personalisa&onofferspremiumtailoredskincaresolu&ons,withinnova&onsonthehorizon•  Consumersareincreasinglyrecognisingthatthereisno“onesizefitsall”whenitcomestobeautyandskincare,withpersonalisa<onatrendthatlookssettorun

•  Marketersarelaunchingdevices,appsandservicestomeetthisdemand,andwithsomeconsumerswillingtoinvestinpremiumproductshere,moreinnova<onislikelyinfuture

•  Variouspersonalisingop<onsfromarangeofplayers–ledbyJ&JandL’Oreal–includeappsfortakingself-diagnosingselfiesandmasksandotherproductscustomisedtoconsumers

•  FitSkin(FitSkin)“skinscanner”launchedinUSAinassocia<onwithJ&J’sNeutrogenainSeptember2018;deviceaTachestoaniPhonecameraandcandetectsubtlechangesinskinbeforetheybecomevisibletonakedeye,allowingdiagnosisandearlytreatmentofproblemsviapartnerapp,NeutrogenaSkin360

•  Camerahas30xzoomtomagnifyandmeasureporesandlines,aswellasmoisturesensorscapableofscanningbelowskin’ssurface;adsusetagline“SeeWhatYourMirrorCan’t”

•  Appmakespersonalisedproductandtreatmentrecommenda<onsaswellasdietandlifestyle<psbasedoniden<fiedsymptoms

•  Proprietary“AItechnology”canrespondtoconsumers’changingskincarerou<nesandeffectsofweatheronskin

•  Skincredibleapp(inpartnershipwithFrenchcosme<csmarketerSephora)launchedin2018,offeringsimilarskindiagnos<cfunc<onalitytoSkin360;hairanalysisapp(viapartnershipwithJohnPaulMitchellSystems)isscheduledtolaunchinAugust2020

UK–An&-ageing

•  Producthassecondarybenefits;marke<ngclaimsitcanimprovetolerabilityofre<noids,shorteningadjustmentperiodbyuptoaweekandreducingdryness

•  Re&nol0.3Correctisaconcentratedfacialcreamwithpurere<nol(0.3%)posi<onedtoimprovetheappearanceofvisiblesignsofageingandporeswhileimprovingskintone

•  Theproductisrecommendedforfirst-<mere<nolusers;however,strongerRe<nolcreams(0.5%,1%)availableforsaleonUSwebsitearenotcurrentlyavailableonUKwebsite

•  Inlate2019P&G’sOlaywasextendedwithOlayRegeneristRe&nol24cream,serumandeyecreamfornight-<meuse;promo<onalmaterialclaimsthat“thisuniquecombina<onoftheworld-famousmul<-taskervitaminB3andRe<nolComplexgives24hoursofhydra<onforglowing,brighterskin,withlessvisiblefinelines,wrinkles,anddarkspots”andusestagline“Sleep.Glow.Repeat”

•  TVandprintadssupportedthelaunch(aspartofthe#Faceanythingcampaign),featuringCanadianmediapersonalityLillySinghwhosays“IgetupandglowwithRe<nol24”

•  J&J’sNeutrogenaoffersAgelessBoost,formulatedwithadenosine;comprisesHydrogenRecoveryMaskandInstantFacialCream-Mask,withlaTerclaimedtooffer“instantboost”withallbenefitsofalonger-dura<onfacialtreatment

•  HydrogelRecoveryMaskpromotesitsdevelopmentinKoreaasakeysellingpoint,capitalisingonpopularityofKoreanbeautyproducts;claimstodeliverequivalentof30mlofan<-ageingserumtotheskin

France–Acneremedies

•  Cosmeceu<calrangeAvène,whichleadsFrance’sacnecategory,includesCleanancelineofacneproducts

•  Itwasextendedin2019withComedomedlineextension,accompaniedbyashi^inpromo<onalfocus;newpromo<onusedtagline“Teensshouldn’tthinkonlyabouttheiracne”withaccompanyinghashtag#GetAcneOutOfYourMind

•  #TeenStoriesadcampaignfocusesonyoungpeoplefromaroundtheworldabletofocuson“whatreallycounts”thankstobeingfreefromworriesaboutacne

•  Avène’smainsellingpointisproprietaryformula<onwithspringwater

•  Effaclarisanothercosmeceu<cal-focusedproduct,comprisingcosme<candtherapeu<clineextensions;LaRoche-Posaypromotesitalongsideotherproductsvia“StopOSpots”website,focusingonteenageacne

•  Treatmentcourseforacne-proneskinhasthreestages:Clean,CorrectandMakeup,combiningEffaclarandToleraineproducts

•  In2018,LaRoche-Posay/L’OréalrolledoutEffaclarSpotScanspotdiagnosistoolacrossEurope;consumerssubmitthreephotographsandtheappgradestheseverityofacnetooffertreatmentadvicefocusedonEffaclarproducts

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