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Contents a Leading articles Front cover picture: Nataliia Natykach, Shutterstock 3 Editorial NEWS 8 Markets + Profiles FOCUS Future technologies 10 Natural cosmetics: Greener production processes are gaining ground 12 a Dr. Marcel Langenauer, NCD: Carrier systems – Versatility for all types of actives 14 Dr. Bernd Becker, Molcare Consulting: Efficacy tests and tolerance tests – Genetic testing by skin model analysis MARKETING 16 Vivienne Rudd, Mintel: International launches 18 Fragrance trends: New orientals and new technology 20 a Claudia Valder, Frey & Lau: The way a fragrance can make its mark on us – How much does colour matter? 22 a Penny Williams, Orchadia Solutions: Fragrance Stability – Common problems and how to avoid them 26 Imogen Matthews, In-Cosmetics: Marketing trends presentations 2014 – A “potpourri” of the latest global C&T trends 30 Star of the Month: Dual action trigger spray PRODUCTION 32 a Cosmopack 2014: What’s new? 34 Packaging News 36 a Caps and closures: Versatile, and with an eye on the future 38 New Ingredients SERVICES 6 Download List 40 Formulations: Cleansing products 42 Events Diary 43 International B2B Exchange 44 Suppliers‘ Guide 48 Company Index 48 Advertisers‘ Index 49 Masthead Page 50 Trend statement by Prof. Dr. Karl Lintner, Kal’idées 50 Preview 10 I New technologi- cal developments drive the growth in natural cosmetics 32 I A first taste of what to expect at Cosmopack 2014 14 I Identifying complex processes in the skin with gene expression tests on skin models 26 I A rapid look at the leading world trends

COS1403 Gesamt GB...How much does colour matter? 22 a Penny Williams, Orchadia Solutions: Fragrance Stability – Common problems and how to avoid them 26 Imogen Matthews, In-Cosmetics:

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Page 1: COS1403 Gesamt GB...How much does colour matter? 22 a Penny Williams, Orchadia Solutions: Fragrance Stability – Common problems and how to avoid them 26 Imogen Matthews, In-Cosmetics:

Contents

a Leading articles

Front cover picture: Nataliia Natykach, Shutterstock

3 Editorial

K NEWS

8 Markets + Profiles

K FOCUSFuture technologies

10 Natural cosmetics:

Greener production processes are gaining ground

12 a Dr. Marcel Langenauer, NCD:

Carrier systems – Versatility for all types of actives

14 Dr. Bernd Becker, Molcare Consulting:

Efficacy tests and tolerance tests –

Genetic testing by skin model analysis

K MARKETING16 Vivienne Rudd, Mintel:

International launches

18 Fragrance trends:

New orientals and new technology

20 a Claudia Valder, Frey & Lau:

The way a fragrance can make its mark on us –

How much does colour matter?

22 a Penny Williams, Orchadia Solutions:

Fragrance Stability –

Common problems and how to avoid them

26 Imogen Matthews, In-Cosmetics:

Marketing trends presentations 2014 –

A “potpourri” of the latest global C&T trends

30 Star of the Month: Dual action trigger spray

K PRODUCTION32 a Cosmopack 2014:

What’s new?

34 Packaging News

36 a Caps and closures:

Versatile, and with an eye on the future

38 New Ingredients

K SERVICES6 Download List

40 Formulations: Cleansing products

42 Events Diary

43 International B2B Exchange

44 Suppliers‘ Guide

48 Company Index

48 Advertisers‘ Index

49 Masthead Page

50 Trend statement by

Prof. Dr. Karl Lintner, Kal’idées

50 Preview

10 I New technologi-

cal developments drive

the growth in natural

cosmetics

32 I A first taste

of what to expect at

Cosmopack 2014

14 I Identifying

complex processes

in the skin with gene

expression tests on

skin models

26 I A rapid

look at the leading

world trends

www.cossma.com

Page 2: COS1403 Gesamt GB...How much does colour matter? 22 a Penny Williams, Orchadia Solutions: Fragrance Stability – Common problems and how to avoid them 26 Imogen Matthews, In-Cosmetics:

Finding derived from a representative TNS market survey.

Add more life to body wash with Lamesoft® OD

Our premium body wash solution provides a luxuriously caring, spa-like

skin cleansing experience every day — and not just for UK women.

Lamesoft® OD — another Care Creations product inspired by life.

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Page 3: COS1403 Gesamt GB...How much does colour matter? 22 a Penny Williams, Orchadia Solutions: Fragrance Stability – Common problems and how to avoid them 26 Imogen Matthews, In-Cosmetics:

6 COSSMA 3I2014

SERVICES DOWNLOAD

www.cossma.com/download

Top-Downloads for March

• Background:

Expert statments Sun Care

• Market data:

Cosmetics & Toiletries Market

Germany (IKW)

• Literature References:

Mango butter

(All Organic Trading)

• Formulation:

Jelly Facial Gel Mask

(CLR)

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Additional information at

www.cossma.com/download

or you can just scan

the QR code!

Your access codes

for March:

User name: cossma3

Password: future

Downloads

COSSMA Download-Tip

New starch ingredient for elegant products

Laurie Marshall from Ak-

zoNobel Personal Care de-

scribes the advantages of a

biode gradable new starch

with pleasant aesthetics

and designed to be used in

a wide variety of formula-

tions.

COSSMA subscribers can

download further back-

ground information.

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Page 4: COS1403 Gesamt GB...How much does colour matter? 22 a Penny Williams, Orchadia Solutions: Fragrance Stability – Common problems and how to avoid them 26 Imogen Matthews, In-Cosmetics:

Plantasens® Olive LD-SP Eco is a natural

alternative to silicone with a similar

per for mance and appearance.

Get natural WITHOUT COMPROMISE.YOUR PARTNER FOR SUSTAINABLE INNOVATIONS AND SENSORIAL

SOLUTIONS IN SKIN AND HAIR CARE: CLARIANT PERSONAL CARE.

Uncover the secret to more sustainable formulations. Our EcoTain®

product range fulfills your desire for more responsible, more ecological, and

safer ingredients – without compromising on quality or performance.

WWW.PERSONALCARE.CLARIANT.COM

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Page 5: COS1403 Gesamt GB...How much does colour matter? 22 a Penny Williams, Orchadia Solutions: Fragrance Stability – Common problems and how to avoid them 26 Imogen Matthews, In-Cosmetics:

MARKETS + PROFILES NEWS

B2B networking with “BEAUTY FORUM connect”

BEAUTY FORUM MUNICH I As a supplier you would love to find a simple and reliable

way to gain new customers, to find manufacturers or distributors for your products, or to build

up your international business? Now BEAUTY FORUM connect can help, online, informing you

about potential business partners, and putting them in touch with you.

This is how it works: To make optimum use of this facility you must first prepare a strong, clear and factual description of your business

with details of the brands and/or services that you offer. Videos, photos and personal contact data can also be included with no problem.

The company profile that you produce is an important prerequisite for you to be found by potential business contacts. If you yourself are

also seeking business partners there is a keyword search in the programme. MyMatch will recommend potential companies and people

that exactly meet your search parameters.

If you have already identified interesting candidates you can let them know ahead of the BEAUTY FORUM MUNICH and agree a meeting

time and place. At the exhibition there will be a specially organised Matching Area where you can discuss your possible collaboration.

The 29th BEAUTY FORUM MUNICH takes place on October 25th and 26th 2014 at the Messe München International exhibition centre, and

participation in BEAUTY FORUM connect is free of charge for exhibitors.Further Information can be found at www.connect.beauty-forum.com

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COSSMA 3I2014 9

www.systemkosmetik.de

AUCH AUS BIO-KUNSTSTOFF

ERHÄLTLICH

Hugo Meding GmbHKruppstraße 8 D-58553 HalverTel.: +49 (0) 23 53 / 91 58 -0Fax: +49 (0) 23 53 / 91 58 - [email protected]

innerhalb von 20 Tagen

www.meding.com 

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Page 6: COS1403 Gesamt GB...How much does colour matter? 22 a Penny Williams, Orchadia Solutions: Fragrance Stability – Common problems and how to avoid them 26 Imogen Matthews, In-Cosmetics:

Health and Beauty Germany GmbH Karl-Friedrich-Str. 14–18 76133 Karlsruhe Deutschland

[email protected] Tel: +49 (0)721 165-131 Fax: +49 (0)721 165-103

Order today, at www.cossma.com/subscription or via the hotline: +49 (0)721 165-131

Order today your Cossma

E-paper version!

E-paper

For 99,– EUR per year you get the COSSMA PDF version English and

German issue incl. full access to the online archive of the German,

French, Spanish, Russian and English pdf-Versions (Special PDF editions

in French, Spanish, Russian are published for special occassions)

www.cossma.com

Page 7: COS1403 Gesamt GB...How much does colour matter? 22 a Penny Williams, Orchadia Solutions: Fragrance Stability – Common problems and how to avoid them 26 Imogen Matthews, In-Cosmetics:

42 COSSMA 3I2014

SERVICES EVENTS

www.cossma.com

Page 8: COS1403 Gesamt GB...How much does colour matter? 22 a Penny Williams, Orchadia Solutions: Fragrance Stability – Common problems and how to avoid them 26 Imogen Matthews, In-Cosmetics:

INTERNATIONAL B2BEXCHANGE SERVICES

COSSMA 3I2014 43

IONTO-COMED GmbH

Klapp Cosmetics GmbH

NEOVITA COSMETICS

Dr. med Christine Schrammek

Kosmetik GmbH & Co. KG

TANA Cosmetics

GERTRAUD GRUBER

KOSMETIK GmbH & Co.

Guderma GmbH

Heitland & Petre International

GmbH (ROSA GRAF)

House of Melchiorsen

Ingeburg Praxis-Cosmetic GmbH

abalico

Akzent direct GmbH

Beauty Line Consulting

beauty lumis GmbH

DR. BELTER COSMETIC GMBH

Dr. GRANDEL GmbH

PHYRIS Premium Spa Cosmetic

Wish to export their products

Go to

www.cossma.com/

b2bexchange

for more information

about suppliers and

their products

B2B Exchange: Find your business partners of tomorrow today!

a

www.cossma.com

Page 9: COS1403 Gesamt GB...How much does colour matter? 22 a Penny Williams, Orchadia Solutions: Fragrance Stability – Common problems and how to avoid them 26 Imogen Matthews, In-Cosmetics:

Fragrance and colour:

So what does red

actually smell like?

Improved variants of

conventional liposomes

and nanosomes

Convenience and

elegance:

New trends

in closures

Cosmopack 2014:

What’s new

this year?

E 512 8 0

C O S M E T I C S

S P R AY T E C H N O L O GY

M A R K E T I N G

Focus: Future technologies3 / 2 014

w w w . c o s s m a . c o m

Penny Williams of

Orchadia explains

how we can avoid

problems of fragrance

stability

VIP of the Month

www.cossma.com