10
Contents a Leading articles Front cover picture: Anna Subbotina, Shutterstock.com I [zw NEWS N cw{Af|{ FOCUS ^wyw{ GF a c{w{mw{y{BZD`y~{ayBZicP Solutions for ageless-looking hair GH a `ww_{yCpw{B_w}P Hair care precisely targeted GJ l{{hzzBc{PInternational launches GK iw|~{c~P Hair colouring made easy MARKETING GN _}{cw~{B_CY{yP Marketing Trends Presentations – Multi-faceted insights into the latest global trends HJ a k{cwBj{a~B py~{<iy~wP A touch of paradise at home HL [|{z{Zwxwy~{Bdw{a{{P Soon there may be no rose cream HN m|}w}jwzwwB]|aPHow to avoid flops PRODUCTION IF a _{{~ZD]{zczwBYlkWB X}^x{B_amP Safety, responsibility, animal tests, and more IH Y{yX{HFGIP Lots of suppliers and plenty of products II fwyw}}d{ IJ a _{{~`w{ez{}Bj{y~w|P Wooden packaging? Why not? IL d{_}{z{ SERVICES L Zwzb IN [{wePPrice list IO \wPSun care JF [{Zw JG [{ JH X JI _{wwXHX[y~w}{ JJ i{v]z{ JN Yw_z{ JN Wz{{v_z{ JO cw~{wzfw}{ KF j{zw{{xcwwYwwBm{w KF f{{ 34 I Wood as a packaging material for cosmetics? 18 I Global trends that will impact on the cosmetics market of tomorrow 24 I Exciting formu- lation concepts and textures for home spa application 30 I Dr. Gerd Mildau of the CVUA and Birgit Huber of IKW talk about the new cosmetics directive

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Page 1: COS1306 Gesamt PDF GB - Cossma or lightening while tackling the common problems of any skin type: oily, acne-prone or sensitive. In colder regions, it’s perfectly formulated to combat

Contents

a Leading articles

Front cover picture: Anna Subbotina, Shutterstock.com

K NEWS

K FOCUS

a Solutions for ageless-looking hair

a Hair care precisely targeted

International launches

Hair colouring made easy

K MARKETING

Marketing Trends Presentations –

Multi-faceted insights into the latest global trends

a

A touch of paradise at home

Soon there may be no rose cream

How to avoid flops

K PRODUCTIONa

Safety, responsibility, animal tests, and more

Lots of suppliers and plenty of products

a Wooden packaging? Why not?

K SERVICES

Price list

Sun care

34 I Wood as a

packaging material for

cosmetics?

18 I Global trends

that will impact on

the cosmetics market

of tomorrow

24 I Exciting formu-

lation concepts and

textures for home

spa application

30 I Dr. Gerd Mildau

of the CVUA and

Birgit Huber of IKW

talk about the new

cosmetics directive

www.cossma.com

Page 2: COS1306 Gesamt PDF GB - Cossma or lightening while tackling the common problems of any skin type: oily, acne-prone or sensitive. In colder regions, it’s perfectly formulated to combat

Revealing thePower of Beauty

At DSM we believe that beauty enriches people’s lives.

To reveal beauty’s true power we continually challenge ourselves to understand

in depth your needs, your brands and people’s beauty aspirations worldwide.

With foresight, imagination and a deeply rooted sense of beauty we connect and

leverage our bright science in Skin, Sun and Hair Care to cra� transformational

beauty care ingredients and concepts that are loved.

Together with you we want to create a brighter, more beautiful world for people

today and generations to come.

DSM Nutritional Products Europe Ltd.

P.O. Box 2676, 4002 Basel

Switzerland

Phone: +41 61 815 7777

Fax: +41 61 815 7860

Email: [email protected]

www.dsm.com/personal-care

www.cossma.com

Page 3: COS1306 Gesamt PDF GB - Cossma or lightening while tackling the common problems of any skin type: oily, acne-prone or sensitive. In colder regions, it’s perfectly formulated to combat

6 COSSMA 6I2013

SERVICES DOWNLOAD

www.cossma.com/download

Some scientists have suggested that chemicals, including those used in cosmet-

ics, may be disrupting human endocrine systems such as hormones secreted

by the ovaries, testes, and thy-

roid. Human exposure to

these substances may pro-

duce male infertility,cancers

and other adverse reproduc-

tive effects. Dr. Gerhard No-

hynek, ex-L’Oréal, however,

questions the endocrine dis-

rupting activities of chemicals

in cosmetics. COSSMA sub-

scribers can download further

background information.

Opinion on fragrance allergens

in cosmetic products

EU Cosmetics Regulation –

what is changing?

ECHINACELL™ and other

stem-cell actives (Croda)

Natural Moisturizing Face Care

for Sensitive Skin (CLR) ph

oto

: N

iko

lai S

oro

hin

, F

ota

lia.d

e

Additional information at

www.cossma.com/download

or you can just scan

the QR code!

Your access codes

for June:

User name: cossma6

Password: hair

Downloads

ph

oto

: K

ub

ais

/Sh

utt

ers

tock

.co

m

www.cossma.com

Page 4: COS1306 Gesamt PDF GB - Cossma or lightening while tackling the common problems of any skin type: oily, acne-prone or sensitive. In colder regions, it’s perfectly formulated to combat

Merck at In-Cosmetics: Meet the Stars

Tanning and lightening solutions to reveal healty, radiant skin:

The “Milk and Chocolate kit”

Merck’s “Milk or Chocolate” kit can be formulated to address demand for either

tanning or lightening while tackling the common problems of any skin type: oily,

acne-prone or sensitive. In colder regions, it’s perfectly formulated to combat the

dry dullness caused by harsh winter conditions. Other active ingredients work

against skin irritations or dark spots caused by environmental factors. This inno-

vative kit can support stressed skin through effective cleansing and complexion

enhancement. And it isn’t only useful in regenerating winter-damaged skin – it’s

also a great way to prepare skin for more exposure to the elements. Formulation

examples contain UV protection, moisturizers, anti-inflammatory agents and anti-

acne ingredients. The kit could include: An all-over peeling to prepare the skin

on a large scale, two multipurpose products for either tanning and whitening as

well as a tanning product for beautiful legs.

More fun in the sun: The “Happy Sunshine” kit

Men, women and children generally have different wants and needs when it

comes to sun protection. Children tend to lose track of time when they’re out

in the sun. Men want convenient products that are quick and easy to apply.

And women invest a lot of time in getting the perfect tan. Whatever the situation,

Merck can consult on formulations that hit the spot – all contained in the

newly developed “Happy Sunshine” kit, including Safe Sun Care, Universal

Sun Defense, Sprayable Sun Delight, and Carefree Sun Pleasure.

Merck IR 3535: Nature Inspired Insect Repellent

Insect repellents are very important for all of us: Merck developed fascinating

formulations to make an ideal outdoor kit for both, humans and animals using

the Insect Repellent 3535 (IR3535®, Ethyl butylacetylaminopropionate).

Four formulations are designed to protect you and your animals

88Horse Shelter – an Insect repellent spray for animals

88Enjoy Freedom –an Insect repellent lotion for rider and horse

88Easy Rider – an Sun & insect protection

88Autumn Magic – a Powerful moisturizing & oxidative protection

The naturally occurring amino acid ß-alanine was used as basic module in

IR3535®. More than 30 years of investigations and use proved that the modifi-

cations done for IR3535® provided a skin friendly substance of high safety.

In addition, IR3535® even controls insects via a mode of action which do not

affect the insect. These positive attributes led to the use of IR3535® in many

products developed specifically for children.

To learn more, check www.ir3535.com

This year’s highlights presented by Merck during in-cosmetics in Paris were

three new pigments: Colorona SynBerry Pink is a colour-intensive, fuchsia

red pearl-luster pigment. It is part of the “Fall in Love with Red” initiative.

Whereas Ronastar Diamond Black is a pigment expressing deep, virtually

black color and an exceptional luster, Ronastar Copper Jewel is a vibrant,

copper-coloured effect pigment that is characterized by brilliant luster and

good coverage. Merck also presented its 2014 Cosmetic Actives Trend

Forecast, supplementing the company’s Color Trend Forecast. Two new

studies have not only confirmed the efficacy of RonaCare® Cyclopeptide-5

and RonaCare® Isoquercetin, but also revealed more details on how these

active ingredients work their magic. New data is also available for

RonaCare® AP and its role in acne prevention.

Dr. Matthias Lergenmüller, Senior Director Technology Application Network

PM-P at Merck KGaA Darmstadt presents the new launches and concepts

presented during In-Cosmetics in Paris in his Web-TV interview with COSSMA

TV. To learn more on the latest innovations, check the Web-TV clip at

www.cossma.com/merck

Further information: www.merck4cosmetics.com

Ready to unwrap some new possibilities for you markets?

To find out more about these products, write to us at

[email protected]

Comply with cosmetics

regulations the pain-free way

!

Diapharm GmbH & Co. KGphone: +49 (0)[email protected] · www.diapharm.com

As a service provider in the

healthcare industry, Diapha

rm

takes care of your cosmetic

s:

• Notifi cation procedures

• Creation of product informati

on fi les (PIF / PID)

• Claiming, labelling and packag

ing

• Performance of cosmetic GM

P audits etc.

www.diapharm.com/cosmetics.h

tml

Advertisement

Page 5: COS1306 Gesamt PDF GB - Cossma or lightening while tackling the common problems of any skin type: oily, acne-prone or sensitive. In colder regions, it’s perfectly formulated to combat

Your beauty trade fair event 2013

28th BEAUTY FORUM MUNICH

26th, 27th OCTOBER, 2013

MUNICH INTERNATIONAL TRADE FAIR

Be part of Europe’s no. 1 autumn cosmetics trade fair!

EXPERIENCE…

… the core exhibition areas: cosmetics, nail and foot

care as well as the themed areas bio cosmetics,

medical beauty and wellness & spa!

… the latest beauty trends.

… the breath-taking international championships in

make-up, nail-design and nailart.

… the huge variety of educational trainings with practice-

orientated workshops exclusivly for our trade visitors.

ARE YOU EXITED?

Register now for free entry!

www.beauty-fairs.de/international

Health and Beauty Germany GmbHKarl-Friedrich-Str. 14–18 | 76133 KarlsruheTel.: +49(0)721 165-164 | [email protected]

www.cossma.com

Page 6: COS1306 Gesamt PDF GB - Cossma or lightening while tackling the common problems of any skin type: oily, acne-prone or sensitive. In colder regions, it’s perfectly formulated to combat

I The third BEAUTY FORUM LEIPZIG

on the 13th and 14th of April 2013 enjoyed an increase in visitor number

by about 4 percent, attracting 8,200 trade professionals. Alongside the

newest developments, presented by some 300 exhibitors and brands,

there was a wide range of specialist training opportunities including trade

congresses, workshops, company and specialist presentations, plus na-

tional and international championships and competitions. At the

and there was also an increase in congress

delegates, reflecting the significant demand for onward training in the

sector. The cosmetology congress on the subject of anti-ageing, moderat-

ed by COSSMA editor Angelika Meiss, was very much a focus for new

types of actives, skin care and apparative treatments. It attracted over

140 delegates and resulted in an overwhelmingly positive feedback.www.beauty-fairs.de/leipzig

EVENTS SERVICES

natürlicher duftfür parfümfreie hautpfl ege

oléoSensesinnliche dreifach-wirkstoffkomplexe

patentierte oléo-eco-extraktion

Feuchtigkeit, Schutz und Reparatur der Hautbarriere

100% natürliche Extrakte mit niedrigem Allergen-Gehalt,

Synergistische Komplexe aus pfl anzlichen Ölen, Buttern,

Wachsen und klassischen Duft-Pfl anzen

Standardisiert bzgl. Biophenolen, Essentiellen Fettsäuren,

unverseifbaren Anteilen und Allergenen

Entwickelt mit Parfumeuren

www.mani-gmbh.de/oleosense

oléo sense™ myrrhe

oléo sense™ zimt

oléo sense™ tonka

oléo sense™ iris

oléo sense™ vanille

oléo sense™ weihrauch

ph

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ealth

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ert

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I October 26th and 27th

2013 are, this year, the dates that

will attract professional beauticians

to the 28th BEAUTY FORUM

MUNICH. This is where you have

the opportunity, as an exhibitor,

to show just how innovative your

range is. You will also be welcome

to talk about the details of your

products and/or services in an in-

formative trade presentation.

At the and

meeting points there are to

be professional discussions, com-

pany dissertations and on-stage

events all on the topics of cosmet-

ics and foot care, updating visitors

on the latest developments.

ph

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www.cossma.com

Page 7: COS1306 Gesamt PDF GB - Cossma or lightening while tackling the common problems of any skin type: oily, acne-prone or sensitive. In colder regions, it’s perfectly formulated to combat

Health and Beauty Business Media GmbH Karl-Friedrich-Str. 14–18 76133 Karlsruhe Deutschland

[email protected] Tel: +49 (0)721 165-131 Fax: +49 (0)721 165-103

Order today, at www.cossma.com/subscription or via the hotline: +49 (0)721 165-131

Order today your Cossma

E-paper version!

E-paper

For 99,– EUR per year you get the COSSMA PDF version English and

German issue incl. full access to the online archive of the German,

French, Spanish, Russian and English pdf-Versions (Special PDF editions

in French, Spanish, Russian are published for special occassions)

www.cossma.com

Page 8: COS1306 Gesamt PDF GB - Cossma or lightening while tackling the common problems of any skin type: oily, acne-prone or sensitive. In colder regions, it’s perfectly formulated to combat

INTERNATIONAL B2BEXCHANGE SERVICES

COSSMA 6I2013 43

Go to

www.cossma.com/

b2bexchange

a

www.cossma.com

Page 9: COS1306 Gesamt PDF GB - Cossma or lightening while tackling the common problems of any skin type: oily, acne-prone or sensitive. In colder regions, it’s perfectly formulated to combat

48 COSSMA 6I2013

ICADAwww.icada.eu p. 8

IKWwww.ikw.org p. 30

Impagwww.impag.de p. 12

In-Cosmeticswww.in-cosmetics.com pp. 3, 18

Information & Inspirationwww.info-inspiration.com p. 18

In-Trendwww.in-trend-ltd.com p. 18

Irati Internationalwww.irati-international.fr p. 8

Issey Miyakewww.isseymiyake.com p. 34

Jean-Claude Biguinewww.biguine.com p. 14

John Lewiswww.johnlewis.com p. 18

Kal’Idéeswww.kalidees.com p. 8

Kerastasewww.kerastase.com p. 14

Kline & Companywww.klinegroup.com p. 18

Kneippwww.kneipp.de pp. 8, 26

Krüsswww.kruess.com p. 33

L‘Oréalwww.loreal.com pp. 15, 18

La Roche-Posaywww.laroche-posay.com p. 8

Lucas Meyerwww.lucasmeyercosmetics.com p. 36

Lumsonwww.lumson.com p. 32

MakeUp in Pariswww.makeup-in-paris.com p. 33

Maniwww.mani-gmbh.com p. 8

May Departmentwww.mayco.com p. 8

Medena for Skinwww.medena.ch p. 8

Merckwww.merck4cosmetics.com p. 8

Mibellewww.mibellebiochemistry.com p. 8

Mintelwww.mintel.com pp. 14, 18

MWVwww.mwv.com p. 32

Naturkosmetik Konzeptewww.naturkosmetik-konzepte.de p. 26

Organic Monitorwww.organicmonitor.com p. 18

AkzoNobelwww.akzonobel.com/pcp p. 36

Alberto Culverwww.alberto p. 18

Amazon Lockerwww.amazon.com p. 18

Avonwww.avon.com p. 33

Axonwww.axoncorp.com p. 33

Azeliswww.azelis.com p. 8

Balance Mewww.balanceme.co.uk pp. 3, 18

BASFwww.basf.com pp. 8, 18, 36

BSB Cosmeticwww.bsb-cosmetic.de p. 8

Cobiosawww.cobiosa.com p. 12

Codifwww.codif-recherche-et-nature.com p. 8

Cosmetic Businesswww.cosmetic-business.com p. 32

Cosmopolitan Cosmeticswww.pg.com p. 8

Cosnovawww.cosnova.de pp. 3, 18

Crodawww.croda.com p. 18

CVUAwww.cvua-karlsruhe.de p. 30

Datamonitorwww.datamonitor.com p. 18

Dieter Bakicwww.bakic.com p. 32

District Two Cosmeticswww.district-two.com p. 8

Dowwww.dow.com p. 36

DSMwww.dsm.com pp. 10, 18

Escada Beautéwww.escada.com p. 8

Estée Lauderwww.esteelauder.com pp. 8, 18

Euromonitorwww.euromonitor.com pp. 18, 24

Evonikwww.evonik.com/personal-care pp. 8, 36

Fragrance Foundationwww.fragrance.org p. 8

Gerresheimerwww.gerresheimer.com p. 32

GfKwww.gfk.com pp. 3, 28

Henkelwww.henkel.com p. 8

Company

Index

Advertisers’

Index

bi packaging Zhejiang B.I. I/E CO.,LTD.www.bi-packaging.com p. 13

bomo trendlinewww.bomo-trendline.de p. 15

BASF Personal Care and Nutrition GmbHwww.cognis.com pp.16, 17

CLR Chem. Laboratorium Dr. Kurt Richter GmbHwww.clr-berlin.com p: 52

Clariant International Ltdwww.clariant-personalcare.com p. 27

Coradin SAS Plastic Injection Moldingwww.conradin.com p. 2

DERMATEST GmbHwww.dermatest.de p. 37

Diapharm GmbH & Co. KGwww.diapharm.de p. 7

Dr. Spiller Biocosmetic GmbHwww.dr-spiller.com p. 42

DSM Nutritional Productswww.dsm.com p. 5

Flux Geraete GmbHwww.flux-pumpen.de p. 19

GRAFE Advanced Polymers GmbHwww.grafe.com p. 29

Greentech GmbHwww.greentechgmbh.de p. 11

Heinz Plastics Deutschlandwww.heinz-plastics.com p. 32

IMPAG Import GmbHwww.impag.de www.impag.eu p. 9

Kosmetik Konzept GmbHwww.kosmetik-konzept.eu p. 12

Krüss GmbHwww.kruss.de p. 8

Lipo Chemicals Incwww.lipochemicals.com p. 21

Mani GmbH Chemische Produktewww.mani-gmbh.com p. 41

MegaPlast GmbHwww.megaplast.de p. 35

naturkosmetik konzeptewww.naturkosmetik-konzepte.de p. 39

OTTO Cosmetic GmbHwww.otto-cosmetic.de p. 7

Paul Kaders GmbHwww.paulkaders.de p. 8

Quadpack Germany GmbHwww.quadpack.net p. 35

Stölzle-Oberglas GmbHwww.stoelzle.com p. 36

topac GmbHwww.topac.de p. 33

Zellaerosol GmbHwww.zellaerosol.de p. 36

Oriflamewww.oriflame.com p. 8

P&Gwww.pg.com pp. 8, 18

Parluxwww.parlux.com p. 8

Perfumaniawww.perfumania.com p. 8

Pierre Fabrewww.pierre-fabre.com p. 18

Primavera Naturkosmetikwww.primaveralife.com p. 8

Protec Ingrediawww.proteingredia.com p. 8

Provitalwww.provital.org p. 8

Quadpackwww.quadpack.net p. 33

Quantiswww.quantis-intl.com p. 18

Rahnwww.rahn-group.com p. 8

Rhc advantagewww.rhcadvantage.co.uk p. 18

Sanoflorewww.sanoflore.com p. 8

Schwarzkopfwww.schwarzkopf.com p. 14

Sen by Kim Robinsonwww.senbykimrobinson.com p. 14

Sephorawww.sephora.com p. 18

Shiseidowww.shiseido.com p. 34

Silabwww.silab.fr p. 8

SITwww.sit-skin.com p. 8

Soliancewww.soliance.com p. 12

SpringPoolwww.springpool.de p. 18

Symrisewww.symrise.com p. 8

Technotrafwww.technotraf.com pp. 3, 34

Top Shopwww.topshop.com p. 18

Trichemawww.trichema.ch p. 8

Vetia Floriswww.vetiafloris.com p. 8

Vidal Sassoonwww.sassoon.com p. 14

YSL Beautéwww.ysl.com p. 8

Zschimmer & Schwarzwww.zschimmer-schwarz.com pp. 3, 24

www.cossma.com

Page 10: COS1306 Gesamt PDF GB - Cossma or lightening while tackling the common problems of any skin type: oily, acne-prone or sensitive. In colder regions, it’s perfectly formulated to combat

Multifunctional anti-

ageing formulations

for the hair

Actives

for targeted

hair care

The effects of the new

EU Cosmetics regulation

clearly explained

Wood as a

material for unusual

packaging solutions

Ulrike Marx and

Torsten Krohn

present some

effective formulations for appealing

home spa applications

VIP of the Month

www.cossma.com