corsair sailing manual

SAILING MANUAL

For All Corsair Models

24

28

CORSAIR MARINE, Inc. Page 1 Copyright © 1997 By Corsair Marine

November, 1997

Including F-24, F-28 and F-31

Sailing Manual For AllCorsair Models

This manual has been compiled to help you to operate your craft withsafety and enjoyment. It contains details of the craft, the equipmentsupplied or fitted, its systems, and information on its operation andmaintenance. Please read it carefully and familiarize yourself withthe craft before using it.

If this is your first craft, or you are changing to a type of craft you arenot familiar with, for your own comfort or safety, please ensure thatyou obtain handling and operating experience before assumingcommand of the craft. Your dealer or national sailing federation oryacht club will be pleased to advise you of local sailing schools orcompetent instructors.

PLEASE KEEP THIS MANUAL IN A SECUREPLACE, AND PASS ON TO THE NEW

OWNER WHEN YOU SELL THE CRAFT

Model_____________________

Hull Number__________________________________

Built By:Corsair Marine, Inc.

150 Reed Court, Chula Vista, CA 91911, U.S.A.

Owner 1. ___________________________ Owner 2. ___________________________ Owner 3. __________________________

__________________________________ __________________________________ _________________________________

__________________________________ __________________________________ _________________________________

___________________________________ __________________________________ _________________________________

Copyright © 1997 By Corsair Marine Page 2 CORSAIR MARINE, Inc.

ContentsGeneral............................................... 3Preparation.......................................... 3Loading .............................................. 3Safety Compartment........................... 4Outboard Motor.................................. 4Trailering ............................................5Rigging................................................6Launching........................................... 9Mast Raising On The Water................ 11Rudder.................................................11Daggerboard........................................11Mast Setup..................................................11

Sailing..........................................................12

The Basics.........................................12

Reefing..............................................13

Rotating Mast Control.......................15

Windward Performance.....................15

Reaching............................................16

Screacher........................................... 16

Spinnaker...........................................17

Spinnaker Jibing................................17

Spinnaker Sailing Downwind............18

Safe Sailing Recommendations.........19

Sailing Hints......................................21

Anchoring............................................23Beaching..............................................23Retrieving To Trailer ..........................23De-rigging ..........................................24Lifting Out.......................................... 26Marina Docking.................................. 26Safety...................................................26

Unsinkability..................................... 27

Offshore Sailing ............................... 27

Capsize..............................................27

Righting.............................................28

Personal Responsibility ....................30

Safety In General ..............................31

Technical Notes...................................31Winch line......................................... 31

Spring Retaining Clips...................... 31

Launching......................................... 31

Beam Bolts........................................ 31

Hoisting Mainsail.............................. 31

Bearing Away.................................... 31

Heavy Helm...................................... 31

Rudder/Daggerboard hum.................31

Rudder Ventilation............................ 31

Shroud Tensioners............................. 32

Compression Pads............................. 32

Wingnets............................................32

Bimini Top Storage............................32

Float/Beam Vents.............................. 32

Rust....................................................33

Cleaning Floats..................................33

Clean Boat Hint.................................33

Collision............................................ 33

Hurricane Survival............................ 33

SPECIFICATIONS ............................ 34F-24 Mk II Sail Plan........................... 35F-28 & F-28R Sail Plan...................... 36F-31 Sail Plan......................................37F-31R Sail Plan................................... 38F-24 Interior........................................ 39F-24 Deck Layout............................... 39F-28 Interior........................................ 40F-28 Deck Layout............................... 40F-31 Aft Cockpit Interior.................... 41F-31 Aft Cockpit Deck Layout............41Typical Trailer Setup ..........................42Warranty & Limitation of Liability..... 43Maintenance & Safety Checklist ........44


LOADINGMultihulls should be treated like aircraft when it comes to

loading. Corsair trimarans are light, responsive craft, anddue to their narrow waterline do not have an unlimited loadcarrying ability. Overloading can affect performance andhandling, while excessive overloading can also affect safetymargins, the ratio of float buoyancy relative to the total weightfalling. A higher ratio is faster and safer. Always be consciousof weight and take care not to carry unnecessary items.

The load-carrying capacity of the different Corsair modelsis listed in the back of this manual. Some overloading isacceptable for general sailing in sheltered waters, the onlyadverse affect being a loss in performance. However, anoverloaded boat offshore in large waves can become dan-gerous due to greater loads generated in the structure, andthe sluggishness which can prevent the boat from rising to goover, or with the waves, as it should.

When storing supplies, try to keep all heavy items locatedas low down as possible and in the forward end of thecabin . Avoid storing any heavy items inside aft of the mainentry hatch, as too much weight aft can cause transom drag,affecting performance. Farrier designs have a very buoyantbow, which actually lifts at speed, and additional weight

GENERALThis manual contains important information about the safe

operation and maintenance of your Corsair built trimaran. Readit carefully, become familiar with the procedures described, andfollow the recommendations to help make your sailing enjoyableand trouble-free.

Corsair trimarans are designed and built as high perfor-mance cruising yachts, which when used as intended, withtheir enormous stability and unsinkability, are among thesafest and fastest yachts afloat.

As you become familiar with your boat, you may discoveralternative methods of operation that have advantages. Wewould appreciate if you would share these with us so that wecan share them with other owners.

PREPARATIONBefore going sailing, you will need to provide the proper

safety equipment as required by local regulations. This willusually include life jackets for all crew members, safetyharnesses for children, anchor, compass, bilge pump, foghorn, First Aid kit, fire extinguishers, flashlight and batteries,life buoy, flares, a chart of the area to be sailed, food, water,and adequate fuel.

Corsair trimarans taking part in the 1997 U.S. National Titles, Pensacola, Florida. Farrier designs have now been sailingextensively world wide for over 20 years, and the experience from all these years is the basis for this manual.


should always be kept forward rather than aft.Should your model have float storage, avoid heavy loads

in the floats. These should only be used for light bulky itemssuch as sails, fenders etc. Heavy weight in the ends of anyboat, be it the bow, stern, or floats, can adversely affect thegeneral motion.

To maintain a light boat, and that sparkling edge toperformance, it is highly recommended that you go througheverything on board several times a year, and take off anyitems that do not get used. This prevents the gradual buildupof unnecessary weight.

SAFETY COMPARTMENTBefore sailing, it is important that the Safety Compart-

ment be loaded with the appropriate safety gear. Thiscompartment is accessible from top or bottom and is usuallylocated in a cockpit coaming, or under the cockpit seat.

Its purpose is to keep important safety equipment thatshould be available to the crew in any emergency situation,including a capsize. The equipment stored here shouldinclude flares, a handheld VHF radio, EPIRB (offshore),extra line, spare tools, cutting implements etc. in watertightbags (this is not a watertight compartment).

No multihull should venture offshore withoutsafety gear in such a compartment

OUTBOARD MOTOR The recommended motor size is given in the specifica-

tions at the back of this manual and this is more thanadequate for most circumstances.

A long shaft motor is the minimum required, and the extralong 25" shaft motors are the best. A remote control canalso help make operation very easy with aft cabin models.With weight being important, try to choose a light outboard.

There are a number of specialist ‘Sail Boat’ motors nowavailable and some of these are designed for heavy, hard topush, displacement boats, and their propellers are effec-tively ’geared down’ to give high thrust at low speeds.However, Corsair trimarans have a very easily driven hulland may not need such a propeller. The result can be thesame as always driving your car in low gear. You will haveplenty of thrust, but speed is low, and economy can be poor.These motors do have advantages, and if used, you mayneed to experiment with different propellers to get the bestand most efficient performance.

Refer to the engine manual for details of operation,maintenance and winter storage. Always be sure you haveenough fuel for your planned trip.

The motor can be used while the floats are extended orfolded and should always be tilted up when sailing.

The original prototype F-31 aft cabin, with outboard and underslung rudder system. This type of rudder can beremoved altogether for long distance trailering. Aft cockpit models all now use transom hung rudders.


foredeck cleat and then connected to the towing vehicle.Independent wiring avoids the frequent breakdowns thatoccur with wiring through the trailer being attacked bysaltwater. When the trailer is being towed on its own, thelights can be mounted directly to the trailer.

Before trailering, check that tires are inflated correctly, thebeam locking pins are in place, the rudder is fully up and tiedto one side, the pop-top or hatch is secured, and the boat istied down to the trailer. There should be one tie-down perside, these being looped around the winches or brackets onthe cockpit coamings, and tied to the tie-down loops on thetrailer. The bow eye should also be tied down to the winchpost, in addition to the winch line. Check that all the trailersupports always bear equally against the hulls.

When trailering, BE SURE to pivot up or remove thetrailer jockey wheel, and that the hitch is locked on to the ball.

Should the mast extend back past the trailer lights bymore than the legal amount, the appropriate warning flagshould be tied on the back. The mast can be positioned farenough forward to eliminate any excessive overhang, butthis may not be possible if the towing vehicle is a van.

When trailering, always allow extra distance for stopping.Particularly watch for low bridges , overhanging trees orawnings etc. If necessary, the boat can be partially unfoldedon the trailer in order to pass under a low bridge.

The daggerboard SHOULD ALWAYS BE DOWN whenmotoring, to prevent any sideways movement. If not, theboat will have a hovercraft like motion with wide skiddingturns. With the board down, handling is excellent.

TRAILERINGThe total towing weight can vary considerably, depending

on model and options, and can be determined exactly byusing a weighbridge. Check that the vehicle is approved andequipped as recommended by its manufacturer for towingthis weight, and the capacity of the towing hitch is suitable.

While towing, watch for strong crosswinds. A Corsair is arelatively light boat for towing, but it still has considerablewindage. For easy, stable towing, the trailer should bebalanced to have 5 to 10% of the total weight on the couplingball. This can be measured by a bathroom scale. If you find‘fish tailing’ occurs, increase this weight. If necessary, asimple change like shifting the gas tank or outboard forwardcan make a considerable difference to trailer behavior.

Trailer lights are fitted either on special brackets or as aseparate light bar on the boat’s transom. They are thusindependent from the trailer, and the wiring never gets nearthe water, considerably improving reliability. If separate, besure to fit the correct lights on the appropriate sides. The wireshould be run along the top of the boat, looped around the

Light bar being fitted on an F-28. Note vertical position of transom hung rudder blade for trailering


CAUTIONMeasure and KNOW the overall height on the trailer.

Care should be taken to avoid all low, overhead obstacles.

RIGGINGThe following is a general rigging procedure and applies

to all models. There is also a separate more specific proce-dure for each model. For ease of rigging, it is highly recom-mended that you follow this general procedure, it havingbeen developed from hundreds of launchings and proven tobe fast, easy and efficient.

CAUTIONAlways park into the wind, or uphill to help the mast stay in line while being winched up. Trailer should

remain hooked to towing vehicle.

Two people should be able to completely rig an F-24, F-28or F-31 ready to launch in under 20 minutes of arriving at theramp by using the correct procedure. It is possible in fact, tobe launched, unfolded, and sailing within 15 minutes withjust two. One person should be able to have the boat riggedand launched in around 30 minutes. However, note thatloading any extra gear or supplies onto the boat is notcounted in these times.

DANGERBefore starting to rig, check to see that there are no powerlines for the mast to touch while being raised,

or while being moved to the ramp.

Don’t be dismayed if it takes you considerably longer the firstfew times out. It will take a little practice to become familiarwith the procedures, and the more you rig the boat, theeasier and quicker it will become. However, it is very impor-tant to follow a set procedure each time.

Recommended Set-Up Procedure Is As Follows:

1. Remove the trailer tie-downs, and the trailer lights. Thetie-downs can be tied together and used as the bow line forlaunching. Saves stowing them, and then finding a bow line.

2. Undo the trailer winch hook, and pull some slack so thatthe hook will pass over the bow roller. Leave it lying on theforedeck.

3. Place the mast raising pole on the foredeck ready foruse. Climb onto the bow using the nonskid areas on the floatbows as stepping points.

CAUTIONThe float bows can be slippery - particularly warn children to take care while climbing up or down.

4. Move aft alongside the mast undoing the mast ties (ateach end) and the rigging ties as you go.

5. Lift the forward end of the mast and walk aft, rolling themast on the aft mast roller while checking that the riggingwires do not catch. Stop once the mast foot is over the pivotbrackets. Now’s the time to fit any masthead indicator to thetop of the mast. Lift the mast up until the indicator can be fittedto the masthead from the ground behind the boat. If riggingsingle-handed, the mast can usually be balanced in this

position to enable fitting.With F-28 & F-31R rotating masts, the mast

yoke will now need to be fitted to the mast footusing the through pin (yoke can also be fittedprior to rolling mast back, or be left on the footat prior de-rigging). Another alternative is toattach the yoke to the deck first, then fit themast to it.

6. The mast foot is now connected to themast step as follows:

F-24 Mk II: Plugged onto pin in the deck step.

F-28: Yoke is attached to the two deck brack-ets with fast pins

F-31: Plugged onto pin in deck step.

F-31R rotating: Attach yoke to deck bracketswith fast pins

Mast rolled back and being fitted to deck pivot brackets


With the F-31 non-rotating mast, it may be necessary topush the mast firmly aft to fit on the pin. If difficult, check thatall stays are clear, the terminals into the mast have notsnagged sideways, and the mast is centered on the aft roller.

7. Fit the mast raising wires . These are led from the eyearound 8' up the front of the mast (side of the mast with non-rotating masts) to the side anchors on the cabin roof (alignedwith the mast pivot point). These raising wire anchors can be'clip on' or 'lift up loops' or extra chainplates, depending onmodel.

Note that the length of these raising wires is adjustableand they should be slightly loose and monitored on the firstmast raising. This is to ensure they cannot become overtightduring the initial raising procedure. They should never bemore than moderately tight, and, once ad-justed and set, should need no further monitor-ing or adjustment.

An alternative to raising wires is to use thespinnaker and screacher halyards. These canalso provide an extra backup in difficult condi-tions, but they do take longer to setup. If used,they must be cleated at the bottom to the mast.

8. Position the mast raising pole on themast or in the yoke socket. Attach the wire fromthe top of the pole to the eye on the front of themast, with the pole being approximately per-pendicular to the mast.

If considered necessary, (strong cross windsor single-handed) additional light side lines canbe fitted from the pole end to the raising wireanchors to stabilize pole sideways.

Where the yoke is used (F-28 and F-31Rrotating masts) the length of the wire from thepole to the mast can also be adjusted, and alittle experimenting will give an almost perfect

Mast raising pole in position on an F-28 with winch lineconnected to jib halyard, ready to raise mast. Shrouds must

be attached to floats to prevent mast falling forwards.

moderate tension on the raising wires throughout the com-plete raising procedure.

9. Take the trailer winch line hook, pull it back over thepole and connect it to the jib halyard snapshackle (after ithas been unhooked from the mast). Winch line shouldextend at least 2' aft of the mast pole fork.

Check to see that the jib halyard is SECURELY TIEDOFF at the cleat on the side of the mast.

CAUTIONWith rotating masts, the shrouds must always be

connected to the floats, otherwise there is a danger that mast could topple forward with over-winching.

10. The mast is now winched up, CHECKING AGAINFOR POWERLINES.

Check to see that all rigging wires are clear and have notsnagged anywhere, particularly aft chainplates on F-31s.Raising wires should initially be slightly loose, and tightenslightly on the way up.

WARNINGDuring mast raising, it is very important to be alert to

all items of rigging lifting or supporting the mast. If any resistance to raising is felt at any point, STOP and check that nothing has fouled. Do not proceed until

any obstruction is clear

If the mast raising pole tends to twist sideways this can becontrolled by light lines to the raising wire anchors asmentioned earlier.

Mast on its way up and being held from going sideways by raising wires


Check that the socket in the rotating mast foot alignscorrectly with the pivot ball on the deck, as the mast nears thefully up position.

CAUTIONWinch operator should be careful to ensure that the trailer winch line lays evenly across the drum while

mast is being raised. With an offset bow roller, there can be a tendency for the incoming line to pile up on

one side of the drum, to where it can suddenly slip off.

Monitor the float shrouds with rotating masts on initialrigging to ensure they do not become too tight or catch onanything during raising. F-28 and F-31R (rotating masts)have either special link plates or a Highfield lever system onthe float decks that allow the shroud enough slack for themast to be fully raised when the float is folded, whilepreventing any danger of the mast toppling forward. The F-24's special folding geometry allows this on its own.

These Link Plates are an important safeguard againstaccidently dropping the mast while folding or unfolding, so donot remove.

The F-31 mast is large and heavy, with high loads, andextra caution should be taken to ensure it is not able to swingtoo far sideways. Never park in a cross wind or sideways ona slope, unless extra help is available to steady mast.

11. Once the mast is fully up, connect forestay. At initialrigging mast rake should be set to around 3 to 4°, which is 1

to 2° more than the rake of the aft edge of the forward beamswhen viewed from the side. Once initial adjustment has beendone, the forestay turnbuckle does not need to be undoneduring normal rigging or de-rigging , only the clevis pin isremoved or inserted.

Lower and intermediate shrouds on the fixed F-31 mastremain connected during all rigging and de-riggingprocedures. After the initial adjustment, there is also noneed to undo these or disconnect them from the shroudchainplates.

12. Once forestay is connected, slacken off the trailerwinch, disconnect the jib halyard, and return it to the mast.Remove raising pole, mast yoke, rewind the winch andreconnect hook to the bow eye.

Leave mast raising wires attached to the mast , asthese are still required for support until after the floats areunfolded and shrouds properly connected to floats.

13. The topping lift is now disconnected from the mastlower end and connected to the end of the boom to help takethe weight. Remove the sail bag from the mainsail/boom andconnect the boom to the mast.

14. Tighten all the battens in the mainsail, if required.Connect the mainsheet to the boom. Feed the mainsail headinto the track on the mast and connect the main halyard

Link plate system on the F-28. Pulling the lower left clevispin releases the shroud, but it remains secured to the float

by the link to the u-bolt to the right, while allowing justenough slack for the float to fold (see page 24).

Always leave mast raising wires attached until after the boatis unfolded. F-28 'fold down' anchoring loops shown here.


15. Run all the halyard lines from the mastthrough the turning blocks back to the correctrope clutches on the aft end of the cabin roof.

16. Connect the mast electric plug if re-quired.

17. The headsail can be fitted now if wished,or after launching. The sheets are laid out andconnected to the clew (sheets can be kept inthe anchor well for quick access). The head-sail can be kept under control by a shockcordwhich can be left on the foredeck for thispurpose. Just keep it hooked to the toerail orpulpit.

18. Untie the rudder, and check that thedaggerboard up-line is cleated. The outboardmotor should also be in the up position .

19. The aft mast support is now removedand stored. You are now ready to launch.

LAUNCHING

WARNINGBefore taking the boat to the ramp, check to see that

there are no powerlines for the mast to touch.

Back the trailer down the ramp until the trailer is sub-merged up until just past the inward bend of the side framemembers (about 6 to 8' back from the winch post).

Disconnect the winch hook and push the boat off, whileholding on to the bow line, or you can get on board (but startthe motor first before pushing off). Be careful of crosswindsor wind from the stern. The boat, with its shallow draft, willmove quickly sideways in such conditions, and you shouldnot launch until there is sufficient maneuvering room along-side.

This ability to go sideways is one drawback of shallowdraft, and you should always make allowances when launch-ing/retrieving or under power. First priority at every launchshould be to LOWER THE DAGGERBOARD! This helps toprevent any sideways movement, and gives excellent ma-neuverability under power.

The F-31 is a large boat to handle at ramps, but becauseof its lightness, it is easy to move around. The trick is not tofight it, but to plan ahead what you are going to do, and gentlyguide it in the correct direction.

An offshore wind at the ramp is ideal, as the boat will justlie quietly downwind at the end of the bow line. It is just thena simple matter of boarding over the float bows, and backingoff or just walking her over to a boarding dock, if available.

An onshore wind is the most difficult, as the boat will swing

sideways once launched, and come towards the ramp. Inthis situation the boat should be held off the ramp from acentral position on the side. You will find a balance pointwhere it will lie evenly until you are ready to board.

If a dock is alongside it is a good idea to run a stern lineto the dock, so that the stern can be pulled to the dock afterlaunching, thus preventing it from swinging around.

A good way of launching in all conditions, if extra help isavailable, is for someone on board to start the motor beforelaunching, and simply back the boat away from the ramp -remembering, of course, to drop the daggerboard once clearof the trailer.

All models are always launched folded, and unfolding canbe done either at the dock, or while motoring away, even inchoppy conditions. Folded stability is very good, but it islimited, particularly on bigger boats like the F-28 and F-31. Always take care in strong crosswinds and avoid fasttight turns, as it is possible to roll the boat over! If necessary,immediately unfold at least one side to avoid any risk. TheF-31 also has a secondary wider folded beam of 9' 6" whichimproves folded stability, and if you intend motoring very farwhile folded, you should use this position.

WARNINGAlways take care in strong winds while fully folded and with mast up. A combination of a fast tight turn

and mast windage and weight could cause a roll over in such conditions. If in doubt, unfold one or both

sides to eliminate this danger

To unfold, first check that there are no ropes across the

The F-31 - folded stability is very good, but don't push your luck!

Launching the F-28


Unfolding can be done at the dock or while motoring away.But beware, while folding stability is good, it is limited.

when folding, one person operating either beam is all that isrequired. The wingnets will extend and tighten themselves.There is a knack in unfolding of using both your foot to pushon the upper folding strut and your hands to pull the top of thebeam in and down. After a few tries you will find it easy to do.

The shrouds are now secured correctly to the floats, withthe Link Plate (if fitted) being pinned to the chainplate. TheF-24 Mk II does not require this, as its shrouds can be leftpermanently attached to chainplate.

With the F-31 fixed mast, the turnbuckle must be directlyconnected to chainplate, and there should be just enoughslack in the wire (but not too much - which can overloadtensioners) to insert the clevis pins. The top shrouds are thentensioned by the block and tackle tensioners anchored at theaft beams and attached to the shackle located about 4' up thetop shrouds. Pull these on firmly, checking that the mast isstraight. The first time out, both tensioner lines should bemarked when the mast is straight, as a reference for futureuse and adjustment.

These tensioner tackles on fixed masts will need consid-erable tightening when going to windward in high winds, asthey keep the mast straight and forestay tight for goodpointing ability. Avoid letting the leeward shroud become tooloose.

Rotating mast shrouds only need to be moderately tight,even slightly loose, as a tight rig can restrict rotation.

Once adjusted at initial launching, all turnbuckles canremain fixed, and should not require to be adjusted duringlaunching or retrieving. Just the spring clip and clevis pin areinserted or removed in the turnbuckle toggle or Link Plate.

Once the mast is properly supported by the shrouds, themast raising wires can be removed.

The spinnaker pole bowsprit can now be fitted or ex-tended depending on model.

beam recesses, and the tiller is clear. Remove the beamlocking pins, place your foot on the top of the upperfolding strut , grasp the top of the beam and pull downwards,while pushing with your foot.

WARNINGAlways check that no one has their foot/hand/fingers in or near the beam recesses when folding, as the

beams can come down quickly!

The float will unfold, but be careful it doesn’t pick up toomuch speed towards the end. Hold the beam down andtighten the bolts using a speed wrench. These bolts shouldbe tightened firmly, but NOT OVERTIGHTENED.

WARNING

tightened BEFORE sailingThe Beam Bolts must always be in place and

If anything seems hard or difficult when folding, STOPand see if anything is misaligned, or snagged. It is usually awingnet catching. Should you have difficulty in holding thebeams down to tighten the bolts, then the usual cause iswingnets that have been lashed too tightly. These should beslackened slightly.

It is not necessary to hold both forward and aft beamsBeam bolts must always be tightened firmly before sailing


MAST RAISING ON THE WATERIt may be necessary to sometimes launch with the mast

down and raise the mast later. To do this you will need anadditional strong block to attach to the bow roller/stemfitting. A spinnaker sheet block is ideal. The mast raisingpole/yoke must also be carried on board.

Once in clear water, follow the same mast setup andraising procedures as listed under RIGGING, but instead ofthe trailer winch line, use a line from a sheet winch to the bowblock, and then back to the jib halyard. The mast can then bewinched up. The procedure is reversed for lowering.

RUDDER

The rudder has 2 control lines, one to pull up and one topull down. These are color coded, with red (for danger) to pullup, blue, for deep water, to pull down. The rudder will kickback, should it hit bottom hard enough, the pull down linepulling through the cleat.

At high speeds, the cleat alone may not be enough to holdthe rudder down. In this case, a lock/shear pin can be fittedthrough the case and blade as a positive lock down.

The rudder may also have an extra horn cleat on the tiller,and this should only be used if the hold down cleat is worn,and the lock/shear pin is not available. Never use the horncleat where there is a danger of grounding.

DAGGERBOARDLike the rudder, the daggerboard has 2 control lines, one

to pull up (red) and one to pull down (blue). The daggerboardwill not kick back, it being designed to break off should it everhit bottom hard enough. This protects the daggerboard casefrom damage in most cases - a much more expensive repair.Obviously, one should still be careful around shallow waters,

keeping alert, and the boat speed down. The daggerboard isvery strong and will only break off with an exceptionally hardgrounding. Normally you can expect the boat to come to ashuddering stop, with no damage, should you hit bottom atspeeds less than 6 knots or so. It’s then just a matter ofretracting the daggerboard and continuing on your way.

CAUTIONEven at low speeds, a grounding can cause the crew

to be thrown forward, and care should be taken to prevent this, or to be prepared for it. Slow Down In

Shallow Water.

The daggerboard case itself is exceptionally strong, andis not likely to be damaged in a grounding, though this cannotbe guaranteed. Even with a lost daggerboard, your Corsairtrimaran will still be sailable, and will still go to windward. Inthis case you should allow her to heel as far as possible,submerging the lee float to pick up lateral area.

When maneuvering in confined waters always have theboard down. This promotes quick turns, preventing anysideways motion. In general, the board should always bedown, except perhaps when running downwind in lightconditions. However, no speed advantage has ever beenproven for this, so it is probably easier to just leave it down.

The board should always be half to fully down whenrunning or reaching in heavy winds or seas. It greatlyenhances directional control, keeping the tiller very light.

Should you at any time find the helm heavy, then thecause is either, the daggerboard is up, or, the rudder haskicked back slightly (always watch for this). Anotherpossible cause can be the mainsail sheeted in too tight (acommon fault). Even in the strongest winds, or the fastest20 knot spinnaker run, the helm should always be lightenough for easy one-handed control. If not, you shouldcheck for reasons why.MAST SETUP

Rig tension and mast setup are very important for good

F-28 transom hung rudder being lifted up - note how tillercan give extra leverage by pull up line being cleated to it.

Shroud tensioner system as used on the F-27 and F-31


sailing performance and while rotating masts do not requiremuch rig tension (to allow full mast rotation), most owners donot tension fixed mast rigs enough. To avoid this, a simple rigtension gauge (Loos Type recommended) available at Ma-rine stores can be purchased, and this includes hints ontensioning your rig. Rigging wire will stretch a little initiallyand all settings should be checked after a few sails.

All masts should be set up with some prebend (center ofmast pushed forward). This will range from as little as 3/4"with Rotating masts (even less with wing masts), to 3 to 5"with fixed masts. Mainsail should then be cut to suit this.

There is no correct amount of prebend, other than eachmast should have some, and it can be used to control themainsail shape to some degree. This means that if themainsail is cut for say 3" prebend, less will make the mainfuller for light airs. More, will tend to flatten the main for windyconditions.

Prebend in Rotating masts is harder to adjust in thisregard, but the ability to rotate the mast can give an evengreater control over mainsail fullness.

For good windward performance the forestay MUST BETIGHT and this cannot be emphasized too much. Fixedmasts can control this by pulling on the shroud tensioners,and more mainsheet tension. Rotating masts can only in-crease mainsheet tension, but the superior mainsail shapedue to the rotating mast, more than makes up for this.

An important rule, vital to the well being of all masts,particularly fixed masts, is to be sure that your leeward capshroud never becomes TOO LOOSE. Some looseness isnot unusual, but if it is very loose and visibly flopping around,you could risk losing your mast.

To tighten the shrouds on a fixed mast while underway,

you can use the spinnaker winches on the tensioners, or elsesnug up the leeward tensioner a set amount to just removeany slack. Now tack and pull on the other side an equalamount. It is easier to tension the leeward shroud rather thanthe windward one. On the F-31 fixed mast the top shroud'stension in heavy weather should always be 2500lbs ormore.......... Don’t forget to relieve this when not sailing.

SAILINGThis manual is not intended to be a Sailing Instruction

Manual, and it is presumed that all owners will have abasic sailing knowledge and skill. There are however,many aspects of sailing a Corsair trimaran efficiently, andthe following covers some of these:

THE BASICSThe mainsail is usually hoisted first. Turn directly into the

wind and commence pulling on the halyard. You may findwinching necessary to get the main fully up, and if fitted, usethe jib halyard winch. If the boom roller furling system is fitted,the main will automatically unroll from the boom. Winch thehalyard tight until all the wrinkles just disappear from themainsail luff, no tighter, and lock the halyard with the ropeclutch. The topping lift can now be eased.

All models sail and tack easily under mainsail alone. If youhave a lot of tacking to clear a channel then it may be mucheasier with just the main. You don’t have to worry abouttacking the jib, you won’t be going too fast, particularly incrowded waters, and visibility is excellent.

The correct technique for sailing mainsail only is to sheetit free to avoid choking the boat. The traveller can be lockedon the centerline, and the mainsheet slackened off so the

boom is about 12" out from cen-ter. Your boat speed should be 5- 6 knots in 10 to 15 knots of wind,even better with a rotating mast.If you find boat speed is less,then the problem is an over-sheeted main or trying to pointtoo high.

There is a technique involvedin sailing main only, and oncelearned how, it is a very relaxedform of sailing. The secret is tokeep the main eased out more,particularly after a tack. Don’t tryto point high until boatspeed hasbuilt up.

The jib halyard can now beconnected and the jib hoisted.Tighten until the wrinkles just dis-appear from the jib luff, using thehalyard winch if needed. There'sno need to go any tighter. As thewind increases you will find thehalyard will need tightening,

An F-28R with furled asymmetric spinnaker


When reaching, the headsailshape can be improved by usinga barber hauler. This is a linehooked to the headsail clew, andled to a block attached to an eyeon the float deck and then back toa camcleat on the cockpit coam-ing. Two barber haulers give awide range of sheet adjustment.One can also be used on theboom to hold it down while run-ning or reaching. This is muchmore efficient than the traditionalboom vang and a good safetyfeature to prevent an unexpectedjibe.

For the best performance whilerunning, weight should be keptforward. At least one crew mem-ber should sit on the main hullbow when racing downwind. Thisreduces wetted area and canmake a significant difference.

REEFINGSeveral different reefing systems can be fitted, and all the

control methods are well documented. The roller reefingboom as used on the F-28 and optional for the F-31 is a veryeffective reefing system, being fast, easy to operate, andinfinitely adjustable. It’s other main advantage is the ability toeasily roll up the mainsail for storage.

To reef, first disconnect the boom vang (if fitted) andCunningham eye tackle. The topping lift should also now be

again, just enough to just get the wrinkles out. Sheet the jiband you are sailing!

If available, two additional controls may be added to themainsail at this stage, these being the boom vang (fixedmasts only) which just snaps on, and the Cunningham eyetackle. A 4:1 fiddle block with cleat is snap shackled to themast step, and the line from the top fiddle block is passedthrough the Cunningham eye on the sail and hooked to thehorn cleat on the side of the mast. This gives an 8 : 1purchase, and should be ad-justed to just remove the wrinklesfrom the mainsail luff. Neither ofthese controls are essential foreveryday sailing, their main pur-pose being to give more efficientcontrol over the mainsail. Bothmust be removed when rollerfurling.

Corsair trimarans are sailedlike any other yacht, the mostnotable differences being the re-sponse, lightness of the helm,and the low angle of heel. Thisranges from an average of 5 to10 degrees to a maximum ofabout 15 degrees.

Pointing ability is excellent,but care must be taken not tooversheet or try to point too high.Just a few degrees less pointing,with sheets slackened slightly,can see boatspeed jump from 6or 7 knots to 9 or 10 knots.

Boom vang and Cunningham eye controls on an F-27

Jib barber hauler in use on an F-27 - will considerably boost performance


used to lift the back of the boom a couple of inches abovehorizontal. This stops the main from creeping forward to bindagainst the mast when furling. This may not be required,depending on the cut of the mainsail.

Now take the main halyard around the winch and releasethe rope clutch. Go forward with the halyard held in hand,unlock the furling handle and begin turning. As the main isrolled down, let the halyard slowly run out to suit. When themain is rolled up sufficiently, lock the furling handle, let off thetopping lift, return to the cockpit and retension the halyard.Reefing is complete.

You should always try to locate the head of the reefedmainsail close to or just above a staying point, rather than inthe middle of a mast panel. This avoids unwanted bendingloads on any unsupported mast section.

As mentioned previously, if you find a problem with themainsail rolling up close to and jamming against the mast,this is usually caused by not lifting the end of the boomsufficiently with the topping lift.

You may also find it easier to regulate the speed at whichthe halyard runs out, as you wind the boom, by using the ballof your foot on the line just before it enters the mast.

The boom vang cannot be reconnected, but with thebarber hauler system available, if needed, from the floats,this is not of any importance.

A Jiffy reefing system may also be fitted, in addition to theroller furling boom, and this can give slightly better sailcontrol for better sailing efficiency.

Main neatly roller reefed. This F-27 is heading for Hawaiifrom San Francisco

AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA

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AAA

Wrap excess line around cleat so that line emerging from camcleat is not too long.

To reef, disconnect line from cleat, unthread from clew eye, and rethread through new reefing eye. More line will be required and this comes from the excess on cleat

AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA

Rolled Main

Cunningham/reefing Eye line

Reefing eye should also be lashed around mast

Mast

Boom


lines to the deck, one from each side for absolute control, butthis can also be just another complication and is not neces-sary for general sailing.

WINDWARD PERFORMANCEAll Corsair models will point very high if set up and sailed

correctly, but this can also be very dependent on the crew’sskill. It is possible to point just as high or higher than anequivalent monohull, but this may not be the fastest way towindward. A good multihull is capable of much higher speedsto windward than a mono, which also brings the apparentwind forward, to where pointing will be lower, but the result-ant speed to windward is much greater.

One thing to avoid is over sheeting the headsail, as whilepulling this on very tight will guarantee a good pointing angle,the boat speed may be slow. The correct way is to let thesheet out 1 - 2 “ from being tight on, so that the curve of the

To use, simply roller reef as de-scribed above, but only roll the mainup until the selected jiffy reefing pointsare reached (two sets usually includedas standard). Lock the furling handleas before, and then reattach the Cun-ningham eye tackle to the reefing tackeye.

Now unthread the outhaul line andrethread it through the new reefingclew eye. All the controls of a jiffyreefing system are now in place, ex-cept you don’t have to tie off the sail itbeing already neatly rolled around theboom! It is advisable to take a linefrom the Cunningham eye forward andaround the mast. This avoids the pos-sibility of the bolt rope pulling out of themast groove.

ROTATING MAST CONTROLThe correct rotation of a rotating

mast will give a much more efficientand powerful mainsail. It is thus important that the rig not beset up too tight as this can prevent full rotation.

There are many opinions on what the correct amount ofrotation should be, but a general guideline is to keep the mastrotated enough to give a smooth, even, transition from themast to the mainsail on the leeward side.

The amount of rotation will depend on the type and shapeof mast, and can range from 35 to 90 degrees from the boatcenterline. A good rule of thumb is for the mast to be rotatedaround 40 degrees more than the boom.

40°

CLOSE HAULED WITH MAST AT 40° RELATIVE TO BOOM

Avoid allowing the mast to rotate or swing back and forth,which can happen in light winds combined with waves, orwhen sailing off the wind with less sail pressure. This isusually prevented by having the mainsheet angled forwardfrom the boom, which forces the boom forward to keep themast rotated when pulled tight.

The amount of mast rotation is controlled by a line to therotation arm on the mast from either the boom or the deck.A line from the boom has the advantage of being self-tacking,by maintaining the mast at a constant rotation angle relativeto the boom on all points of sail. However, the control line willhave to be detached from a roller furling boom and trans-ferred to an eye on the deck when furling the main.

A control line from the deck is also self-tacking, but it doesnot automatically adjust for different angles of sail. It will thusneed to be let out when bearing off. Some racers like to fit two

F-28 Mainsail being roller furled. Note foot being used to control halyard.

F-28R Mast Rotator Arm


things to achieve in any boat, but with a little care and tuninga Corsair is one of the best.

REACHINGWhen reaching, it is vital that the mainsail be let out far

enough. A common mistake is to sheet it in too tight, with lossof boat speed, a heavy helm and an excessive heel angle.

ALWAYS REMEMBER YOU WILL GENERALLY GOFASTER BY EASING THE SHEETS OUT. PULLING THEMON TIGHTER IS MORE LIKELY TO SLOW YOU DOWN

Your mainsail should have leach tell tails fitted as stan-dard. Watch these, and should they disappear behind themainsail to leeward, then you are sheeted in too tight. Theyshould always be flowing aft.

In light winds the mainsheet system can tend to bind andbe hard to let out. To overcome this there is sometimes alever on the side of the camcleat block that disconnects theratchet. The mainsheet system will then run out easily.

The headsail should also be barber hauled out to thefloats when reaching. This is used to get the perfect shapein the headsail (so that it doesn’t backwind the main), and willboost reaching performance significantly.

SCREACHERThis is an optional roller furling wire or Kevlar luff

headsail leach matches the curve of the mainsail. It shouldthen not backwind the main, and your pointing angle andboatspeed should both be excellent.

Once you have achieved good boatspeed, then experi-ment by tightening sheets very slightly, pointing slightlyhigher, while trying to maintain the same boatspeed.

The mainsail traveller should be around 6" to windward inlighter conditions, then around the centerline in moderatewinds, and as the wind increases, moved outboard slightlyand more mainsheet tension applied. In very strong windsthe mainsheet should be pulled on as tight as possible. Standabove it and pull it on as hard as you can - most sailors don'thave this tight enough in strong winds. A tight mainsheethelps keep the forestay straight for good pointing ability.

If the jib is backwinding the main, open the slot, bymoving the traveller a little more to center. Keeping an openslot between jib and main is crucial to good windwardperformance, as any back winding of the main will choke theboat. Equally as important, the jib must be relatively flat withNO HOOK in the leach, and not oversheeted. Leach battensare highly recommended to keep the leach flat.

If set up and sailed correctly, a Corsair trimaran will matchthe windward ability of the best monohull racers, 20 to 30%larger. Pointing high and going fast is one of the hardest

Achieving good windward performance can be very satisfying, but it does depend on a lot of factors being right. Screachercan be left up permanently as shown on this F-28R


lower. However, the risk of twist when hoisting can then behigher, and cruisers will usually not experience the sort ofhigh loads that some hard racers can induce, in the searchfor the ultimate performance.

The screacher can be tacked easily when needed byrolling up and then unrolling on the new side.

SPINNAKERThe spinnaker is a very easy sail to use on a trimaran, due

to the wide beam and level sailing. The spinnaker thusbecomes a very practical and safe sail for family sailing, withvery few control problems. The F-24, F-28 and F-31 now onlyuse asymmetric spinnakers, which are the easiest to use,and the fastest if used correctly.

The asymmetric spinnaker can be launched from theleeward wingnet, or main hull bow, and the sheets led backto blocks on the floats near the aft beams for general all roundperformance. For better pointing ability, particularly whentacking downwind, a closer sheeting angle is better, and theideal position will vary depending on spinnaker. A block ona movable strap around the aft beam gives plenty of optionsin this regard.

The tack line is led from a block at the end of the pole backalong the main deck to a cleat on the cabin roof at the aft end.To set, connect tack line, sheet, and halyard. Pull on tack lineuntil tack is at the end of pole, hoist and then sheet in.SPINNAKER JIBING

The asymmetric spinnaker can be jibed either throughinside in front of the screacher or forestay, or around theoutside. With 'inside' jibing the sheets are run between thespinnaker tack and the screacher if fitted, forestay if not.Outside jibing requires the sheets to be run outside thespinnaker tack.

Inside jibing is probably the most common, as outsidejibing does have the risk of a sheet going under the boat,

combination genoa/reacher, flown from the spinnakerbow pole. The spinnaker halyard is used on the F-24,while a separate dedicated halyard is used in both theF-28 and F-31R. This allows the screacher to bealways left up while furled, ready for instance use.

This multipurpose sail can be a perfect all-around,first choice, additional sail for cruisers, or an essentialpowerhouse for racers. It is still a developing sail inmany respects, and offers some significant and worth-while advantages.

It can be used very effectively to windward in lightairs, and for reaching in moderate airs. It thus elimi-nates the regular hank on genoa, while providing moresail area, and it is easier to change headsails. The jibis just dropped and the screacher unfurled when re-quired. Sheeting is to a simple strap around the aftbeam, which can be moved in and out for the correctsheeting angle.

For the best windward performance, it is very impor-tant to keep the luff tight, and many racing owners haveeven fitted 2 to 1 halyards to keep the clutch loads

Screacher being used to windward - makes a great all-around sailfor cruisers. Easy to use, and easy to put away.

Asymmetric spinnaker on an F-24 Mk II being raced veryhard. Note the extra long tiller extensions each side riggedup by these Australian skiff sailors, which are held in place

by shockcord to the aft beams. Works very well.


though this is lessened by using a continuous one piecesheet. The advantage is that the sail does not have to fitthrough the narrow slot between spinnaker and screacher.

With inside jibing, the skipper should start turningslowly while the crew eases the sheet to keep the sail full.As the clew nears the slot, or the spinnaker starts tocollapse, the new sheet should be quickly pulled in to pullthe spinnaker through the slot and around, while alsoreleasing the old sheet.

Outside jibing procedure is similar, with the crewwaiting until the clew reaches just in front of the headstay,and then pulling in the new sheet, with the sail goingaround the outside.

In all cases it is very important that the skipper turnsslowly, and then heads up to fill the sail before coming tothe right course.SPINNAKER SAILING DOWNWIND

On first using an asymmetric spinnaker you may bedisappointed with downwind performance with a fixed mast- unless you take note of what is said here. The asymmetriccannot match a full symmetric spinnaker straight downwindbecause of the smaller, flatter area, and a restricted ability to

project to windward. The major advantage is considerablyeasier handling, and a superior reaching performance.

Tacking downwind does not work well with fixed masts, asthe mast interferes with mainsail flow, and the main is thusnot very effective. A rotating mast is much more efficient andsuch boats can achieve a very large performance increase,making downwind tacking the fastest way to go.

However, the same effect can be achieved with a fixedmast by using the jib inside the spinnaker which, besidesincreasing area, helps smooth the flow over the mast andmain with spectacular results.

The basic technique/rule is to sail downwind while keepingthe apparent wind at about 90°, trimming the sails so they arenot stalling or luffing. The jib, for instance, should be sheetedto the float just aft of the forward beam. The extra speedgenerated will pull the apparent wind further forward, allow-ing you to go deeper and deeper while maintaining a veryhigh speed. Just keep the apparent wind at around 90°. It canbe tricky to get the right angles, but if done correctly, theresults can be devastating. So try it! Flying the jib inside thespinnaker may also help improve performance with a rotat-ing mast in light winds.

Asymmetric spinnaker on an F-28R. Jib can be flown inside by racers as shown for better performance in light airs


storm. It appears to virtually eliminate the danger of capsizefrom both extreme wave action and hurricane force winds.

Other variations of the above are possible depending onthe circumstances. Experienced and alert racing crews candelay reefing to even well beyond the above limits.

A quick way to reduce sail, and achieve a very comfort-able and safe motion is to simply drop the jib and sail undermain only, reefed if considered necessary. This avoids theneed to tack the jib, and the fully battened main remainsdocile and easy to handle.

Sometimes, when running downwind, it is better to dropthe main and run under jib only. Corsair built trimarans cango to windward and tack while sailing under either jib ormainsail alone.

2. When winds are strong and gusty, and the boat is beingsailed hard, then always have the sheet of the largest sailup, be it the mainsail, genoa, or spinnaker, in hand,ready for quick release. Use only the camcleats providedand never use self-tailers as cleats in high winds - they aretoo difficult to release fast.

Always be ready to release the sheets if you feel the boatis being pressed too hard. Instruct your crew to do likewise.If concerned, then just reef until you are comfortable.

SAFE SAILING RECOMMENDATIONS

DANGERBe fully aware that it is possible to capsize any multihull and the following rules should

always be observed for safe sailing:

1. Reduce sail early as follows:

a. Genoa/screacher should be replaced by jib in windspeedsgreater than 12 knots.

b. Main should be reefed to first set of reef points when windreaches 20 knots.

c. Main should be further reefed to second reef points whenwind reaches 25 knots.

d. In winds over 35 knots main should be roller reefed to 4thbatten from the top and jib replaced by storm jib

e. Over 50 knots, main should be furled more, or completely,leaving only the storm jib.

If necessary, all sail can be taken off and a properly set upStorm Parachute Anchor put out. This is now a well provenmethod for a multihull to survive even the worst offshore

This is definitely not safe sailing with a novice crew aboard! The F-27 shown is sailing in 30 knots with full sail, and anexperienced crew. Boat speed reached 23 knots. Note how the main hull bow stays high, while the boat planes on the aft

sections - this is an important safety characteristic of all Farrier designs. It is very hard to bury the bow. DO NOT do this sortof thing with your family on board. To be safe, always reef early.


DANGERNever leave the sheets unattended, if un-reefed and

the wind is exceeding 20 knots.

If being pressed while reaching then it is better to bearaway downwind than round up. The boat will slow down,and the mast momentum from the turn is to windward,reducing heel. Round up and speed may increase surpris-ingly, while mast is thrown to leeward, heeling the boat more.

The only time to luff up is while hard on the wind (do notbear away in this case), feathering the sails until any gustpasses by.

In general, your visual indication of being overpowered iswhen the leeward float is pressed far enough down to havewaves regularly wash over it. If cruising with your family, thenyou should reef before this for the best comfort. If sailing forspeed, this is not of great concern, providing the crew isvigilant, and this sort of sailing has been done for hours atvery high speeds.

It is not unusual to drive the low resistance float bowsthrough waves, or even submerge the float in some circum-

stances. This has been found to have no adverse effect onthe boat, and in fact the boat will tend to round up slightly, notslew to leeward as commonly and mistakenly believed. EarlyFarrier designs used low buoyancy floats, and frequentlycompletely submerged the leeward float, with speeds inexcess of 15 knots, for quite some time, with no ill effect onthe boat. However, this is sailing on the limit, and don't pushyour luck unless prepared for a ducking.

3. Beware of being caught side on, with little speed and withall sails sheeted in tight. This can happen after a tack ifconcentration is lost.

4. If caught in a severe thunderstorm, a simple safetyprocedure is to drop all sail and simply let the boat drift. Youwill lie side on to the wind which is quite safe, unless thewaves are very large, in which case you should steer offdownwind. Corsairs will steer quite well from a reach to a runwith no sails up in any winds over 5 knots - try it sometime.It is even possible to round up into the wind.

5. Another safety procedure in a severe storm is to simply

For safety, always wear a life jacket, and, when sailing hard, always keep the sheet in hand ready for instant release


drop all sails and anchor, which is probably not used enoughas a safety procedure. It is very effective. At sea a StormParachute anchor has the same effect.

6. Always listen to the latest weather forecast before you setout on any sailing trip.

7. Always leave yourself a large safety margin, be it whilesailing, or simply motoring around.

8. Always carry full safety gear, including life jackets, asrequired by U.S. Coast Guard and local regulations.

The above procedures will give a high margin of safety andshould always be observed whenever safety is paramount.If absolute performance is required, and an experiencedcrew is aboard, the above limits can be comfortably ex-ceeded. In some earlier sea trials full sail has been carried inover 40 knots of wind, including the spinnaker. This is not forthe inexperienced however, and any skipper doing suchsailing must be prepared for and accept the responsibility forthe extra risks involved. It should not be done offshore.

SAILING HINTSCorsair trimarans have several unique sailing features,

one of these being the ability to make continuous 360 degreeturns in the one spot. To do this, while going to windward forinstance, just tack, but don’t touch any of the sheets. You willcontinue to turn, jibe, and tack again indefinitely. Can be ahandy tactic on starting lines.

A simple way of heaving to, is to just tack as above, butimmediately put the helm over to turn back into the wind, withthe jib sheeted on the windward side. This prevents tackingagain and the boat will instead fall off. The rudder then takesover again and turns the boat back into the wind. You willthen stabilize like this, just off the wind, moving forward veryslightly. The helm can be lashed over and you now have astable, barely moving work platform to do any neededrepairs, stop for lunch, or just wait for someone else to catchup!

Should you ever loose the rudder, for whatever reason,don’t despair. Among the repertoire of tricks is the ability tosail without the rudder. It takes a little practice to get right, andit is worth practicing sometime. Pull the rudder fully up (firstmaking sure you have plenty of room!). Now, to go to

Set up and sailed properly, a Farrier design is a very safe, yet very fast boat. This F-31 is powering into 25 to 30 knotwinds, with a single reef. Speeds of around 11 knots to windward are possible in such conditions


windward, you sheet the jib or genoa as per normal but let themain right out. Pull the main on slightly and you will beginmoving. Pull the main on more and you will come higher, letit out and you will go lower. Pull the main hard on and you willtack. Immediately let it right out until you stabilize on a reach,and then start pulling it in until you are going high again.

This takes a bit of practice to get it right, and for a time youwill be all over the place, but after a while you should be ableto work your way to windward, tacking too, just by adjustingthe mainsail.

You can also sail surprisingly effectively without any sails.The mast alone is sufficient to get steerage way downwind,and once moving you can bring her up on to a reach, evenback into the wind. This can be a handy feature for cominginto a ramp or dock at a greatly reduced speed.

Another feature is the ability to back up. This takes a bitof practice, but by turning into the wind, and waiting until shestarts going backwards, you can control this backing for aslong as you want. Just steer the rudder whichever way youwant to go. Can be useful in backing off a beach, or awayfrom a dock - just let her go back, swing around once in clearwater, and then accelerate away.

The high potential speeds possible with rotating masts offthe wind can be intimidating to new multihull sailors, and, ifnecessary, the potential speed can be reduced to a more

comfortable level by reducing sail or by under rotating themast, which depowers the mainsail. More rotation can beused as one becomes comfortable with the speeds possible.

When spinnaker running before very large seas offshore,with boat speeds of 20 knots or more, there can be a dangerof pitch poling. This can be caused by pressure from themainsail which cannot be released downwind should thebow dig in. The solution is to drop the mainsail, whichvirtually eliminates this risk. This rule only applies to racers,as cruisers should have reduced sail well before this evenbecomes a danger.

The limit for racers with modern rigs will always be nosediving, though this is hard to do with a Farrier design, due totheir characteristic 'high bow' sailing stance. The F-28, forinstance, at speed, frequently has the complete center hullbow section out of the water, the waterline beginning just infront of the daggerboard. This comes from the wide flat sweptup aft sections of the main hull which generate negative lift,actually sucking the stern down.

This characteristic can be maximized when needed withhigh speed racing downwind, by moving the crew inboardand aft to the back of the cockpit. This keeps the flat aftsections of the center hull in the water and the bows veryhigh, by increasing the negative lift at the hull aft sections.This works most effectively on aft cockpit rotating mast

When seeking the best performance, keep things in perspective - there will always be some boats that will be faster...Sir Peter Blake's 60 foot trimaran Steinlager and an early Farrier design - the Trailertri 680.


boats, where the heeling component of the sails is less thanthe fixed mast, the drive being angled more forward.

Also important for the best performance, by minimizingwetted surface area, is to move crew weight well forward inlight to moderate winds, to keep the bows down, counteringthe stern negative lift.

The boat should also be heeled to leeward (crew onleeward side) when sailing to windward in light winds, just aswith a mono. This keeps the sails in a more efficient shape.

ANCHORINGTrimarans tend to be lively at anchor, due to their light

weight and shallow draft. They like to sail from side to side,which can be annoying. This is simple to overcome by usinga bridle setup to each float bow. These have eyes fitted asstandard, for a block to lead the bridle lines aft.

When anchoring, just lay out your anchor as per normal,over the main hull bow roller. Set up the rope bridles, runningthrough the blocks on the float bows and back to thespinnaker coaming winches. Bring the 2 bridle lines togetherin the center of the boat and attach to the anchor line. Let theline out further until the bridles take over the load. You willthen have a well behaved boat.

BEACHINGOne major multihull advantage is the ability to come right

into a beach. You can either pull in far enough so that the boatcannot move around (which can wear out your expensivebottom paint) or anchor just far enough out so that the boatremains floating in 2 or 3" of water.

RETRIEVING TO TRAILERAfter sailing is finished, the jib is dropped and the mainsail

is roller furled or folded. Remember to lift the boom aft endas required with topping lift for smooth roller furling. Oncefully rolled, you should then hold the mainsail with one hand,and reverse wind the boom with the other. This loosens thetightly rolled main, preventing any wrinkles, and relieves anybending force on the battens.

The floats can be folded before arriving at the ramp forreduced beam, and this also allows the float bows to be veryuseful step-off points, if needed. Use the secondary widerfolded position on the F-31 if windy and there is still somedistance to the ramp.

Prior to folding, with all rotating masts, the mast raisingwires must be fitted.

WARNINGRotating masts must be supported by raising wires before disconnecting shrouds, or mast could fall

The advantages of a multihull with shallow draft can be easily seen. Sometimes you don't even need to anchor. Just pull up atthe nearest beach - an F-27 in Japan.


To fold, disconnect the shrouds from the float chainplates(not required with F-24). The shrouds are then retained tothe float by the Link Plates with rotating masts, which givejust enough slack to fold, while preventing the mast fromfalling should the mast raising wires be forgotten.

The F-31 fixed mast version will require that the shroudsbe completely disconnected from the float, and they can thenbe secured to the mast with velcro straps. This stops themfrom flopping around. An alternative is to attach them to thefloat deck just behind the forward beams. This keeps themfrom moving, yet allows the float to fold up.

Before folding, first check to see no one is on the sidebeing folded, and then undo the beam bolts. The beams onthe side first released may spring about 12" into the air as thelast bolt is undone. Hold the top of the beam and lift upwardto fold, TAKING CARE NOT TO LET THE FLOAT SWINGIN TOO FAST AGAINST THE CENTER HULL which coulddamage the stops. You will have to slow it slightly. Insert thebeam locking pin. If the float does not fold in fully, the usualcause is the wingnet catching on the aft corner of the cabin

side rail. To correct, just push the wingnet down under thecabin side rail.

WARNINGTake great care while folded in winds of 25 knots or more. A combination of a high cross wind and a fast, tight turn, may be sufficient to overcome the folded stability of bigger designs, resulting in a roll over.

Now fold the second side. You may find this initially moredifficult, as the boat is heeled this way, due to the first floatfolded lifting that side. Crew weight on the already folded sidewill help by levelling the boat out more. Lift, and once againdon’t let the float come in too fast once it starts moving. Insertthe beam locking pin.

If anything seems hard or difficult when folding, STOPand see if anything is misaligned, or snagged. A commonerror is to try and fold without disconnecting the shrouds. Thebeam won't budge, so remember to check this.

Raise the daggerboard and rudder, and cleat both in theup position. You are now ready for the trailer.

If there is a cross wind at the ramp, then a SideGuide Rail should be fitted to the leeward side of thetrailer. This will prevent the boat swinging sidewaysand off the trailer.

Back the trailer down into the water until the waterreaches the forward inward bend of the trailer sidemembers and the float supports are just visible abovewater level. Don’t submerge the trailer any further thanthis. Gently guide the boat into the center and pull up asfar as it will go. Take care here, that it comes on straight,and avoid pulling it over the center hull side supports,as this can damage the Log paddlewheel sender uniton the bottom of the hull (gets expensive to replace).

A side line from the windward aft cleat may also behelpful in cross winds to prevent the stern swinging toofar sideways.

If motoring onto the trailer, leave the daggerboarddown until the last minute - otherwise any crosswindmakes it very difficult to keep on center. Once fully on,connect the trailer winch hook, and winch on theremaining few feet.

The boat can now be pulled from the water, andwhen on level ground remember to check that it is fullywinched on. Once out of the water there always tendsto be some slack in the winch wire. Tie an extra safetyline from the bow eye down to the winch post, ready forde-rigging.

DE-RIGGINGRemove the bow line, separate the two lines, and

use as the side tie-downs. Fit the aft mast support andthe trailer lights.

Remove the jib and fold. The jib sheets can bestowed in the anchor well ready for instant use nexttime. If possible, the jib can be stowed inside one of the

F-28 Shroud disconnected, and being restrained by link to give justenough slack for folding. Mast raising wires must be fitted prior to

disconnecting shroud (can be seen in background).


reaches the aft mast support.CAUTION: If your trailer winch

does not have an automatic brakefeature, don’t let go of the winchhandle while lowering. Shouldthis happen it will start spinningvery fast and could cause injury.Don’t try and stop it - except byusing the winch brake. DON’Ttry and grab the handle - youwill just have to let the mast fall -better than a broken hand.

Once the mast is fully down,disconnect the winch hook, re-connect to the bow eye, and re-tension. The jib halyard is thenreconnected to the mast.

Disconnect mast from the step,and lift it up to enable the windindicator to be removed from themasthead. Walk the mast for-ward until the mast can bemounted on the pulpit's lift upspigot (in roller furling shaft hole)

or rested on the carrier on the pulpit.Secure the mast to the pulpit and aft mast support. All

rigging wires and stays should now be secured to the mastwith the Velcro ties. This is to prevent them from rubbing onthe deck which will quickly wear through any gelcoat or paint.On long trips it is also a good idea to pad between the wires

floats - thus keeping it from cluttering up the main cabin.If possible, relieve the tension on the battens, and these

can be left in the loosely rolled main. Remove the rollerfurling handle (if fitted) and stow in the anchor well. Leave thetopping lift on, to take the weight, and disconnect boom fromthe mast. Lay it down on the cabin roof to one side and fit thesail cover/bag. Disconnect the topping lift, and reconnect tothe mast.

The boom/mainsail is heavy on the F-28 and F-31 andhard to handle. It can be stowed in the cabin if you wish, butthis takes considerable effort, and room inside. It is muchmore convenient to stow it on the cabin roof, where it isprotected by its bag and is ready for instant use next time.

To lower the mast, release the jib halyard from the ropeclutch, turning block and mast base block (if necessary) andcleat it to a horn cleat on the mast side. Release the trailerwinch hook, pass it over the bow roller and hook to the jibhalyard. Tension the winch until the forestay just becomesslack, allowing the pin to be removed. There is no need toslacken the turnbuckle.

Take the forestay back and secure to the mast. Removeall halyards etc. from the rope clutches and blocks asrequired. Wrap these around the mast to retain all stays andhalyrads neatly against the mast. It is important that this isdone now, otherwise when lowering the mast any loosestays will tend to fall away over the boat. It also makessubsequent rigging easier.

Fit the mast raising pole/yoke assembly, and begin low-ering the mast by letting out the trailer winch line. The raisingwires must be fitted with rotating masts . As the mastcomes down, take care that the winch line meets the centerof the raising pole, and that the mast is central when it

This is about the right position for the trailer when retrieving

Fitting an F-28 Mast to pulpit. All such masts with rollerfurling fit on a vertical 'swing up' spigot on the pulpit. Mastraising pole yoke can be left on mast as shown if wished.

Note also rotator position - folded up against mast.


floats and the floats folded as normal. The marina slip canthen be entered and the folded boat moored as with anyother craft. However, care must be taken if high cross windsare a possibility, as folded stability is limited . Precautionsinclude running a line from the mast to the dock on each side,a wider folded position, or lowering the mast in extremeconditions. Folded stability without the mast is very good,and the folded boat can actually self right up to even a 80 to85° heel angle.

One problem with marina docking is oil stains or growthon the lower float sides. This is not a major problem with shortstays in a slip, but will be a nuisance over a long period.There are several ways to overcome this, one being theuse of an antifouling wax on the float sides. Thus thegelcoat finish is preserved and only an occasional wipe isneeded. Antifouling paint could also be applied to the floatsides but this is not attractive, it needing to be 2' 6" wide.

One of the best and recent solutions for long term Marinadocking is a dock liner, which surrounds the boat withsterilized water, preventing growth.

* * * * * * * SAFETY * * * * * * *The modern trimaran with its enormous stability and

unsinkability is a very safe craft, and has now established anexcellent safety record. However, this safety is dependenton the operator and how the craft is handled.

The major hazard to be avoided is capsize, and a fewsimple rules make this virtually impossible. Capsize is rare

and the mast, or remove the wires altogether.

CAUTIONDo not use elastic cord type ties on the mast, with

hooks, as they can be dangerous by whipping back and causing eye damage.

Rudder should be fully up, and tied to one side. Shouldlocal regulations not permit the rudder to be left on thetransom, it should be removed and stowed in the towingvehicle. If fitted, secure the pop-top down, or it could lift upduring high speed towing.

Connect the trailer lights (making sure they are on thecorrect sides) and then check that the trailer is correctlypositioned under the hull. You are now ready for the road.

LIFTING OUTShould there be no ramp present, then all Corsair models

can be quite safely lifted in and out by the usual dockside lift,using the optional and permanent Lifting Eyes .

Slings can also be used around the complete folded craft,the best bearing areas for the slings being the beam areas.Other temporary lifting points are the mainsheet traveller(outer corners), shroud chainplates on the center hull (whenfitted), or the beam bolt pads in the beam recesses.

MARINA DOCKINGFor marina docking, the shrouds are released from the

This is not a safe angle of heel - go this far and you are probably gone! This F-27 is being pulled over to test stability.


with well sailed cruisingmultihulls, but can occa-sionally occur with racerspushed to the limit - justlike race cars. The impor-tant factor, as with a car,is that the degree of risk isup to the driver/skipper.Drive/sail too fast for theconditions and the risk ofa crash is higher. Thedecision is yours.

It is not taken awayfrom you by a heavy keelbelow, making it impos-sible to go fast. Nobodyseriously suggests weigh-ing down a car to preventa roll over, nor should asailboat be weighed downto limit performance, justbecause a few may nothave the maturity to sail afast type of craft safely.

Thus, like a car, a mul-tihull has the capability ofvery high speeds when desired, and the risk factor canconsequently be higher. The choice is yours however, as itis not compulsory to go fast. In general, the risk factor willonly begin to increase when boat speed exceeds 15 knotswhile reaching, or about 8 knots to windward. When sailedfor the conditions, or with safety in mind, Corsairs are thesafest craft afloat.UNSINKABILITY

This is the ultimate safety feature for any boat. All Corsairmodels are unsinkable, being constructed almost com-pletely in foam/glass, with multiple watertight compartments.With no heavy keel, it is therefore immune from sinking, evenwith all watertight compartments flooded. No matter whathappens, you can be assured that your Corsair will alwaysbe there, and will never go aground in 200 feet of water!

There are up to 12 watertight compartments, dependingon the model, including:

Floats: 3 compartments each.Forward berth: an important factor against collision.The four beams: up to 170lbs buoyancy each

OFFSHORE SAILINGAll Corsair models have been designed strong enough for

heavy weather sailing, and both the F-27 and F-31 have nowcrossed both the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans many times.However, it should be noted that they are small boats forsuch long offshore passages, and for this reason suchvoyages are not recommended .

Due to the considerable wear and tear that can result fromsuch voyages, and the many unforeseen hazards, warranty

coverage is not available for any boat undertaking anypassage offshore longer than 200 miles.

* * * * * * * * * * * * WARNING * * * * * * * * * * *THE SAFETY OF ANY CORSAIR MODEL AT SEACANNOT BE GUARANTEED AS OFFSHORE SAIL-ING CAN BE A HAZARDOUS UNDERTAKING,WITH MANY RISKS. NUMEROUS FACTORS BE-YOND THE CONTROL OF THE MANUFACTURERWILL AFFECT THE SAFETY OF ANY OFFSHOREVOYAGE AND ANY OWNER TAKING A CORSAIRTRIMARAN OFFSHORE MUST ACCEPT FULLRESPONSIBILITY FOR ANY RISKS INVOLVED.

It is not within the scope of this manual to go into all thenecessary equipment for offshore sailing, this being coveredby many readily available books, and/or offshore safetyregulations. Essential items are an underwing re-entry hatch,the optional Storm jib, and a properly set up STORM PARA-CHUTE ANCHOR. The parachute anchor is a recent devel-opment for multihulls and offers a very comfortable and safemethod for surviving severe storms.

CAPSIZECapsize is always a possibility, even if a remote one, and

should it ever occur, stay calm, and make sure all crew areaccounted for. Anyone inside can stay there, it being safe forsome time. There is no danger of sinking.

When sailing offshore the following items should alwaysbe stored in the safety compartment (accessible from under-

Even when fully flooded, a Corsair will stay afloat easily. This F-27 was deliberately floodedin order to demonstrate its unsinkability.


storage lockers.You now have a large, relatively comfortable life raft, and

well stocked with provisions. Much better off than in a smallliferaft with minimal provisions. In fact the record for thelongest survival time adrift at sea is now held by the crew ofa trimaran capsized off New Zealand in 1990. They were insuch good condition when rescued that their story was firstbelieved to be a hoax. The same year an offshore racingmonohull disappeared off Australia, taking 6 lives. Had theybeen on an unsinkable trimaran, the crew may have sur-vived. Modern satellite position indicating systems now offervery quick and easy location for a floating, but disabledmultihull, whereas a sunken monohull has no such option.

RIGHTINGRighting at sea, unless outside help is available, is

probably not a feasible option as yet. Probably better to leavethe craft as it is, where the crew are safe, and await rescue.

When the opportunity arises, and outside assistance isavailable, the most successful system for any multihull, is totow the capsized boat fore and aft, the tow line going to theaft end, in the form of a bridle. Which end depends on theboat, but the general rule is to choose the end that is floating

neath if capsized), with lanyards attached, and in watertightbags:

EPIRB unit Cutting ToolsExtra wrenches & tools Bolt CuttersSpare Beam Bolt Wrench RopesVHF Hand Held Radio PliersCopy of Righting instructions FlaresSurge is the major enemy inside the boat, and the first

priority should be to seal all hatches, vents etc. and try tokeep the boat dry as possible. Pop-top will remain in place asthis will try to float upwards. Main battery switch should beturned off and all loose objects stored in the cabin settees,these now being above water. Surge will otherwise removeeverything. Water level while inverted is around the bottomof the beams - float decks are only just immersed.

If possible, the battery should be removed as it willdischarge under water. It should be a sealed unit therebyeliminating the danger of acid or gas.

If offshore, the crew outside can use the recommendedre-entry hatch to shelter inside, or if not fitted, obtain a cuttingtool from the safety compartment, (accessible while in-verted) and cut an access hole into the hull under the cockpit

Push it too far and this is what may happen - a capsized F-27 - note how high it is floating, the water level being around thebottom of the beams. Even in this position it remains a relatively easy and safe boat to move around on.


flooding may also be required. Towing sideways will notwork.

Another righting method, that uses the folding system,has been tested and shown to be workable on a Farrierdesigned 19' Tramp in choppy conditions, and on an F-27 insmooth water. The Tramp was deliberately rolled over, the F-27 was a capsize.

The method has not been successfully tested at sea andthus should not be tried at sea, it being better to wait forassistance, as the righting action does tend to flood theinverted boat more. Not a good idea if the righting attemptdoesn't work.

The F-27 capsize was caused by the spinnaker combinedwith a mainsail sheeted tight amidships (never do this whileunder spinnaker in any circumstances). Both sails werebeing carried in winds gusting to 35 knots , with NO ONEholding the sheets. Crew was just owner and 10 year olddaughter. Boat speed was over 20 knots and the capsizehappened while changing from a run to a reach, and the crewwere not able to release the sheets in time. In theseconditions the sheets should always be hand held with-out exception. The spinnaker sheet can be easily led to thewindward jib sheet winch, making this very easy to do.

After capsize both crew surfaced under the wingnets, butfound plenty of space to breathe due to the high floatingposition. There appears to be little danger in being trapped

highest. Thus as the boat begins to move, the lowest end, beit bows or stern, will begin to sink, and even more so as thewater inside rushes forward. The boat should then flip backupright, bow over stern or visa versa.

Tow

Bridle to each float

If the above procedure does not work, then try flooding theend that needs to sink, or add some crew weight (ready toabandon ship once the end concerned starts to go under). Ifthis fails, try towing the other direction. Some controlled

However, the cleanup work required is not so easy - the same F-27 just after righting- looks a mess right? Well sail sensiblyand don't even risk a capsize - it is easy to avoid


here. They were then able to get on to the upturned boat (nowa safe 19' wide raft), which was towed ashore, and righted,with relatively little damage, the next day.

The procedure using the folding system is as follows:1. Put on a lifejacket - this is essential for easy working in

the water.2. The boat will be floating side on to the waves, and you

should first attach righting ropes to the windward float beamareas and bring them over the main hull to the leeward float.Use a pair of lines for each available crew member.

3. Disconnect and save both shroud tensioners if fitted,which can then be used to help as necessary.

4. Release top shrouds from the float chainplates, andallow to drop with fixed masts. Secure a line from the leewardshroud, with rotating masts, to the leeward float.

5. Connect a line to the forward beam area on the leewardfloat and connect this to righting line from other side using4:1 shroud tensioner.

6. Release all beam bolts. This can be done whilealongside without diving. The bow nets may have to beunlashed to reach forward beam bolts.

Mast

Vent tube float

Air vent tube

7. Stand on the wingnet and pull on the shroud tensioner.The float on the side you are standing on will fold up, yourweight helping. Once folded, insert the beam locking pins.Repeat process with other side float. Smaller designs willfold up just from your weight on the wingnet.

You now need to drop the mast off, and use its weight toassist righting, by helping the hull to rotate in the directiondesired. This is done by hanging it from a line passing overthe leeward float, and attached to the windward float.

If in sheltered waters, damage to mast can be minimizedby pulling back to the trailering position. However, outsideassistance will probably then be needed to rotate the boat.

8. Release the forestay, attach a line, and take to thecenter of the leeward float. Run the line over the center hullto attach to the windward float deck eye just in front of thedeck hatch.

9. Release all halyards from the rope clutches, andunthread from the turning blocks.

10. Release mainsheet from traveller, the jib sheets, jibtack, inner forestay (if fitted), and any remaining shrouds.

The mast will now drop, or hang from the step pivot pinswith fixed masts, which will soon break from the motion of theunsupported mast. If not, then remove the nuts of the deckpivot brackets from inside. Mast will now hang from theleeward float.

11. Open all hatches on the leeward float, and stand onthe float, stabilizing yourself with the righting ropes, to thewindward side. The float will slowly start to flood. If necessarysmall holes may be required on the highest part of the floatside to let out trapped air, or a simple vent tube from this areato the atmosphere will allow the air out.

12. As the float floods, start rocking back and forth in timewith the waves. Once the float is flooded sufficiently, the boatshould roll upright. It's possible to climb around the boat asit rotates to end up on deck. The beam retaining pins will fallout and the floats will tend to unfold themselves.

Now tighten the beam bolts, and start bailing. A longtubular type bilge pump is needed to do this successfully.You may initially need to wrap a rag or towel around its bodywhere it enters the circular float hatch to prevent waterreentering. Pump should always be secured so that it cannotfloat away.

If you find your weight is insufficient to cause righting, thenadditional weight such as the outboard motor, or battery canbe sent down the mast line to assist. If assistance is avail-able, then a tow sideways will help - and this is the onlysituation where a sideways tow will work.

The mast may or may not be salvageable, depending onthe number of crew available.

PERSONAL RESPONSIBILITYThere have been exhaustive efforts to minimizethe risk of personal injury, loss, or any other formof damage, while operating a Corsair built trima-ran, but obviously it is impossible to completelyeliminate every risk. Winches cannot be made tripproof, nonskid can wear and cause slipping, rig-ging wires can be kinked while rigging and laterfatigue, lifelines can be fallen over, frequent ground-ings at speed can cause eventual daggerboard orrudder failure, neglect of proper maintenance cancause early failure, and lack of experience cancause accidents in congested areas, or bad con-ditions. Sailing can be hazardous at times, and theboat operator should accept responsibility for allsuch hazards Many of these risks have been covered in thismanual, but obviously it is impossible to coverthem all. Some recommended procedures maynot even be the correct ones in certain situations.The operator should therefore always be vigilantagainst all possible safety hazards and correct orwarn the crew against any possible danger imme-diately.


SAFETY IN GENERALCapsize matters can be depressing, but to put it in

perspective, a capsize is simply very difficult to do. Luffingup slightly, or bearing away (if on a reach) is usually all thatis required. The risk of capsize can be virtually eliminatedsimply by reducing sail according to the conditions , andbeing prepared to let the sheets go .

When under spinnaker in winds of over 20 knots it shouldalways be a matter of policy to never leave the spinnakersheet unattended. It should be hand held, not even cleated.Cruisers shouldn't even use the spinnaker in over 20 knots.Under main and jib you can still reach 15 knots, withcomplete comfort and safety.

Fortunately it is very hard to capsize a Corsair trimaran,but this can lead to overconfidence. Don't fall into this trap -always be aware that it is possible to capsize, and reducespeed accordingly to suit the conditions - just like any car.

TECHNICAL NOTES

WINCH LINE The trailer winch line should be regularly replaced. This

tends to wear quite rapidly and is under a high strain whenlifting the mast. A breakage here could be very dangerous.It is always advisable to stand clear of the line while lifting themast. Also, frequently check the trailer winch line is tightwhen on a long trip.

SPRING RETAINING CLIPSCAUTION: The spring retaining clips as used on the

Turnbuckle clevis pins should be regularly checked to en-sure they will still 'clip' fit on the clevis pin. Replace if theyhave lost their spring and become loose, otherwise youcould lose your mast.

These spring clips have been used successfully for over20 years and are intended as a convenient 'quick rig' feature.They are not as secure as a properly fitted cotter pin, and ifany doubts exist on their use then a cotter pin or circular ringshould be used instead, and a few of these are usuallyincluded in the Toolbox. However these rings or pins willincrease rigging time, and the final decision in this regard isfor the owner.

LAUNCHINGIf immersing the trailer to the bend in the frame will still not

let you free the boat, be careful; a few inches more can haveyour boat drifting away, so have a bow line secured.

BEAM BOLTS These should always be in place and tightened before

going sailing. Otherwise the Upper Folding Struts can againbe overloaded as above, due to the beam inner end beingforced up slightly by sailing loads.

It is also possible, but unlikely, for a Beam bolt to gall andseize in a bolt pad, which can prevent you from folding up the

boat. If this happens, then you can still fold up the boat bysimply releasing the bolt pad nuts from inside, or cutting offthe Beam bolt head. To avoid this, keep the threads welllubricated with a Teflon grease.

HOISTING MAINSAIL If you find this is tight going up or down (a not uncommon

problem with full batten boltrope mains), there are now somespray-on silicon compounds that can help. Remember toalso check that the mainsail foot outhaul is slackened off.

BEARING AWAYDon't forget this is a very effective and safe way of

absorbing gusts while reaching in strong wind conditions,particularly under spinnaker. Rounding up tends to throw themast to leeward (the wrong way), and can increase speeddramatically - all very exciting. However, bearing awaythrows mast to windward, speed falls off, and the motionfeels much safer. This may sound odd, but try it sometime inlighter conditions to get confidence - it really works.

HEAVY HELMThe tiller should always be light and easy to handle, with

just one hand. If not, then there is something wrong. Usualcause is the rudder blade has kicked back slightly. If this isnot the problem then rudder may not be raked far enoughforward. This can be changed by filling the pivot hole in therudder blade and re-drilling slightly further forward (say 1/4").

RUDDER/DAGGERBOARD HUMThis is not an uncommon occurrence due to the difficulty

in getting perfectly fair foils in a production environment, andeven carefully hand made foils can develop a hum. This canbe reduced or eliminated with a little fine tuning by filing orsanding the trailing edge of the foil concerned as follows:

30° or smaller

Better

Good

Better if

The bottom left shape is probably the easiest to achievein practice, and the least likely to be damaged.

RUDDER VENTILATIONThis can be a problem at very high speeds, and symp-

toms include a 'whoop' sound out the back, a huge roostertail, and no steering. This normally only happens with speedsover 15 knots and fortunately the boat usually just keepstracking straight.

The cause is air being sucked down the side of the rudderat high speeds, particularly if oversteering. Immediate cureis to waggle the rudder a little, or bring it back onto the


sion loads in this area to be directed through the UpperFolding Struts, which, in the case of the F-24 and F-31 are notstrong enough for such loads. They are designed for foldingloads only, and the end mounting points may fail.

AABeam

Compression Pad must fill this gap

HullUpper Folding Strut

This would not cause a serious beam problem as thebeams then simply move inboard to bear against the hullagain. The boat is not threatened structurally. However,repairing an U.F.S. mounting point is difficult and expensive.

The plastic compression pads should be full width of thebeam and bear evenly against both beam and hull, to avoidany point loading. This should be checked periodically.

The F-28 has similar pads on the forward beams, butthese are not structurally important, their only purpose beingto eliminate any movement for better rig stiffness.

WINGNETSTake care that you do not step near the inner ends

of the nets on the sides where lashing cannot be used inorder to allow easy folding. Your foot may go through thisgap. This area can be lashed if you wish, but should youforget to undo when folding, the eyelets in the nets will bepulled out.

BIMINI TOP STORAGEA bimini top can be very useful, due to its ability to shade

the cockpit. For storage, it can be hung over the stern andtied to the pushpit.

FLOAT/BEAM VENTSThe floats are vented through micro cowl vents fitted to

the float transoms (or spring loaded vents just aft of theforward beams on earlier models). These are to prevent abuild up of air pressure inside the floats on hot days, thatcould be enough to open up the hull to deck join.

The watertight bulkheads at the forward beam and Shroudchainplate bulkheads thus have very small holes near thetop to allow venting throughout the float. Should the float everbe holed then these should be well above the floodedwaterline, or at worst, only allow a very small amount of waterthrough.

Should the float be inverted as in a capsize, then theairlock formed above these vents would prevent any signifi-cant flooding.

Hollow beams such as used on the F-28 also needdraining/venting, and this is done through tubes extendingfrom the bottom of the beams inside the floats. Should waterappear from these then the source of the leak in the beamsshould be investigated, and repaired.

In the case of capsize, these tubes are designed to extend

centerline until the water flow reattaches, or slow down.To avoid, always keep the leading edge of your rudder

smooth and fair, and if it becomes a consistent problem thenthe best cure is to fix a horizontal 'fence' to the leading edgeof the rudder about 12 to 15" up from the bottom.

Fence

This will prevent the air from travelling down the bladeand retains steering control, even if the top part of the rudderhas ventilated. Such fences are fitted as standard on somehigher performance models.

SHROUD TENSIONERS When leaving the boat for any length of time with floats

extended, the shroud tensioners on the F-31 should be letoff. If not, the high tension could slowly bend the boat, due to'creep' characteristics. This rule applies to all boats withadjustable backstays.

When initially setting up, shrouds with such tensionersmust be adjusted to be just long enough to reach chainplate.There will then only be a small deflection when the tension-ers are applied. Avoid the shrouds being too long as theresulting large deflection will put too much load on thetensioners, and this could put the mast at risk.

RIGHT

WRONG

Too much load on tensioner - could slip or fail causing loss of mast

Too much deflection, tighten shroud turnbuckle

Shroud turnbuckle adjusted for minimum deflection

Low load on tensioner

When sailing offshore, or for long periods, it is best andsafest to fully tension the cap shrouds with the turnbuckles,so there is no reliance on the tensioners.

COMPRESSION PADS These are fitted to the ends of F-24 and F-31 beams, to

eliminate any gap or movement between the beam ends andthe raised pads in the hull.

Do not remove , as this would cause the high compres-


above the floats flooded waterline, so as to prevent any waterentering, and consequent loss of beam buoyancy.

RUSTMany grades of stainless steel will get an occasional

brown stain in saltwater, that can look like rust. The gradeused on most marine fittings is Type 304 or 303, and both ofthese will show this. Type 316, a more expensive grade, butactually slightly weaker, does not. All three grades can beused on a Corsair, depending on the application. To avoidthis staining, always wash your boat down with fresh waterafter every outing. The brown stains will not appear if the saltis washed off.

CLEANING FLOATS These can be extended for cleaning, if wished, while boat

is on the trailer. Float supports must first be dropped down,and the boat then rocked one way. The 'high side' float canthen be extended. Let the boat lean the other way and theremaining float can be extended. You will need to support thefloats in some way once extended.

CLEAN BOAT HINT If you are having problems with un-house trained birds on

your boat, just leave a dummy, but lifelike, snake in thecockpit floor. Works well.

COLLISIONAny boat that has had a significant fore and aft collision

on the float bow, or the folded beams have hit a low bridge,should always be thoroughly checked. No boat can be madecollision proof, and hidden damage can result.

The complete float should always be checked after animpact, not just the bow area. A heavy fore and aft collisioncan actually propagate throughout the float, and has evengenerated cracks around the aft deck inspection hatchflanges for instance. In one case, a float hull had a verticalfracture in the aft beam area from a severe bow collision.

The beams should also be carefully checked if they havereceived any significant sharp impact. Being carbon fiber,they can be cracked or damaged from sharp impacts, andareas to check are around the lower folding strut brackets,and just inboard from the float. Even if no damage is found,continue to monitor for cracks over a period of time.

An area to check on early F-31s the deck to hull join flangeon the main hull, just under the forward beams. This was adifficult join to do, and susceptible to cracking, particularlyafter a significant fore and aft collision. The diagonal wirebraces as used on the F-31 tend to direct shock loads into theforward beam structure in this area. Any cracks in this flangeshould be investigated and repaired.

The forward beam bulkhead to hull join tape just adjacentto this flange area on the F-31 should also be investigatedclosely, as this is a known failure point from such collisions.Damage here may not be visible initially, but it may grow toeventually fail later, so continue to monitor. The boat stillholds together should this tape delaminate, but obviouslysailing should cease until it is repaired.

HURRICANE SURVIVALHurricanes frequently cause damage to many boats, and

on one occasion capsized a folded F-27. The owner had leftit on a mooring, and being worried about possible damagefrom other boats breaking their moorings nearby felt it bestto fold her up to reduce the 'target' profile. However thisconsiderably reduces stability, and as stated earlier, this islimited while folded. As a result, no doubt while swingingsideways, the gale force winds blew the F-27 on its side.

The best procedure in such a situation is to get the boatout of the water, and trailer it inland away from harm - theperfect solution and used by most owners. If there is not timefor this, then leave the floats extended, and pump water intoeach float and the main hull to weigh her down. Also removethe wing and bow nets. These don't have much windage, butit is surprising how much it can be in such winds. Loweringthe mast will also reduce windage. Your boat is then as safeas anything can be in a hurricane.

SUPPORT FOR MAINTENANCEWhen necessary, the craft can be supported for short periods as detailed above for anti-fouling or other maintenence work.

Option 2: Support under each beam area on floats

Option 1 (best): Support under each beam, just outboard of, and touching, beam brackets

Large wood pad 3 x 6 x 12" (75 x 150 x 300) to spread load across beam

Cushioning material


F-24 Mk IIL.O.A............................................... 24' 3" (7.3m)L.W.L.............................................. 23' 7" (7.2m)Beam.............................................. 17' 11" (5.5m)Folded Beam.................................. 8' 2" (2.49m)Draft Hull only ................................ 1' (0.31m)Draft D/board down ........................ 4' 5" (1.36m)Sail Area (Main and Jib) ................ 365sq.ft. (34sq.m)Mast length......................................31' 10" (9.7m)Mast height above water................. 36' 2" (11.05m)Approx. Weight ...............................1690lb (770kg)Load Capacity ................................ 1000lb (450kg)Opt. Watertank capacity..................5 gals. (20L.)Opt. Holding tank capacity.............. N.A.Battery size .................................... Group 24 deep cycleOutboard recommended................. 4-8HPHeight on trailer ..............................8' 10" (2.7m)Approx. Towing Weight................... 2800lb (1270kg)Approx. wind capsize force 31 knots(fully loaded with main & jib)

F-28L.O.A............................................... 28' 5" (8.66m)L.W.L...............................................26' 3" (8.0m)Beam ..............................................19' 9" (6.1m)Folded beam .................................. 8' 2 1/2" (2.5m)Draft Hull only ................................ 1' 2" (0.36m)Draft d/board down..........................4' 11" (1.5m)Sail Area (Main and Jib) .................475sq. ft. (44.2sq.m.)Mast length......................................36' 10" (11.22m)Mast height above water................. 41' 4" (12.59m)Approx. Weight ...............................2690lb (1224kg)Load Capacity ................................ 1350lb (614kg)Watertank capacity......................... 16 gals. (60L.)Opt. Holding tank capacity.............. 16 gals. (60L.)Battery size .................................... Group 27 deep cycleOutboard recommended................. 6-10HPHeight on trailer ..............................11' 6" (3.5m)Approx. Towing Weight................... 4100lb (1865kg)Approx. wind capsize force 34 knots(fully loaded with main & jib)

F-28RL.O.A............................................... 28' 5" (8.66m)L.W.L...............................................26' 3" (8.0m)Beam ..............................................19' 9" (6.1m)Folded beam .................................. 8' 2 1/2" (2.5m)Draft Hull only ................................ 1' 2" (0.36m)Draft d/board down..........................4' 11" (1.5m)Sail Area (Main and Jib) .................496sq. ft. (46.1sq.m.)Mast length......................................38' 4" (11.22m)Mast height above water................. 42' 10" (12.59m)Approx. Weight ...............................2690lb (1224kg)

F-28R continuedLoad Capacity ................................ 1350lb (614kg)Watertank capacity......................... 16 gals. (60L.)Opt. Holding tank capacity.............. 16 gals. (60L.)Battery size .................................... Group 27 deep cycleOutboard recommended................. 6-10HPHeight on trailer ..............................11' 6" (3.5m)Approx. Towing Weight................... 4100lb (1865kg)Approx. wind capsize force 32 knots(fully loaded with main & jib)

F-31L.O.A............................................... 30' 10" (9.4m)L.W.L...............................................30' (9.15m)Beam ..............................................22' 5" (6.84m)Folded beam .................................. 8' 2 1/2" (2.5m)Draft Hull only ................................ 1' 4" (0.41m)Draft d/board down..........................5' 6" (1.67m)Sail Area (Main and Jib) .................599sq. ft. (55.6sq.m.)Mast length......................................40' (12.2m)Mast height above water................. 44' 11" (13.7m)Approx. Weight ...............................3850lb (1746kg)Load Capacity ................................ 1600lb (680kg)Watertank capacity......................... 16 gals. (60L.)Opt. Holding tank capacity.............. 16 gals. (60L.)Battery size .................................... Group 27 deep cycleOutboard recommended................. 8-12HPHeight on trailer ..............................11' 6" (3.5m)Approx. Towing Weight................... 5300lb (2410kg)Approx. wind capsize force 36 knots(fully loaded with main & jib)

F-31RL.O.A............................................... 30' 10" (9.4m)L.W.L...............................................30' (9.15m)Beam ..............................................22' 5" (6.84m)Folded beam .................................. 8' 2 1/2" (2.5m)Draft Hull only ................................ 1' 4" (0.41m)Draft d/board down..........................5' 6" (1.67m)Sail Area (Main and Jib) .................647sq. ft. (60sq.m.)Mast length......................................42' 6" (12.95m)Mast height above water................. 47' 5" (14.45m)Approx. Weight ...............................3150lb (1430kg)Load Capacity ................................ 2300lb (680kg)Watertank capacity......................... 16 gals. (60L.)Opt. Holding tank capacity.............. 16 gals. (60L.)Battery size .................................... Group 27 deep cycleOutboard recommended................. 8-12HPHeight on trailer ..............................11' 6" (3.5m)Approx. Towing Weight................... 4400lb (2000kg)Approx. wind capsize force 32 knots(fully loaded with main & jib)

SPECIFICATIONSThe following specifications may vary depending on options, and manufacturing or design changes


F-24™ Mk II Sail Plan

®

24

30"/760

NOTES:Mylar may be used for all sails(recommended).Sailcloth wgt. to suit wind in area sailed.All sails are to be fitted with telltalesMax. roach is 41"/1040mm located 60%up leachMainsail has 2 sets of reefpointsMainsail to have Cunningham eye fittedClass emblem to be as shown.Jib to have 3 leach battens placed atequal distance on leach.Jib hanks to be for 1/4"/6mm wire

F-24 is a trademark of Ian FarrierDetailed sail plan available from Corsair Marine

9000 9300 3500 22.5sq.m.

8445 7475 2960 11.3sq.m.

10100 8200 6300 53sq.m.

9400 7475 LP 4700 22.5sq.m.

Sail Luff Leach Foot Area

Asymmetric Spinnaker

29' 6" 30' 6" 11' 6" 243sq.ft. 27' 8" 24' 6" 9' 9" 122sq.ft. 33' 2" 26' 11" 20' 8" 570sq.ft

30' 10" 24' 6" 15' 5" 243sq.ft.

Mainsail

Blade Jib

Screacher


F-28

F-28R

NOTES:Square Top Mainsail as shown is required to beClass legal.Roach to be no more than 26"/660mm, 64% upleach. (28"/710mm with F-28R).Mainsail is designed to be almost flush with thetop of the mast as shown -do not shorten luff,which has cutout as shown for halyardclearance.Vertical Batten to be used at head to ensure headstands vertical.Tack cutaway to be as shownMainsail has 2 sets of reefpoints,Mainsail to have Cunningham eye fittedClass emblem to be as shown.Mainsail battens to be parallel with boom orslightly angled up as shown for easy rollerfurling.Jib to have four leach battens placed at equaldistance on leach.Jib hanks to be for 9/32"/7mm wire

F-28™ & F-28R™ Sail Plan F-28 is a trademark of Ian Farrier

28

F-28RMainsail

33.8' 35.1' 12.0' 300sq.ft 30.1' 26.9' 12.4' 175sq.ft 40.2' 35.8 27.6' 780sq.ft 34' 28.7' 23.6' 358sq.ft

35.8' 37' 12.1 321sq.ft


AsymmetricSpinnaker

Mainsail

Jib

Screacher

10300 10700 3660 27.9sq.m.

9175 8200 3780 16.3sq.m.

12250 10910 8410 72.5sq.m.

10360 8750 7190 33.3sq.m.

10910 11280 3690 29.8sq.m.

32"/812

32"

Detailed sail plan available from Corsair Marine

®


IMPORTANTIf changing mast rake, make sure Center Web always bears evenly on mast deck plate here. Do not allow pivot pin to take full load of mast. Use aluminum packing on Deck plate if required.

Mast step should also touch against deck plate here

Pivot

F-31™ Sail Plan F-31 is a trademark of Ian Farrier

31

NOTES:Mylar may be used for all sails.Sailcloth wgt. may be varied to suit wind inarea sailed.All sails are to be fitted with telltalesMainsail has 2 sets of reefpointsMax. Mainsail roach is 56"/1425mm (located 60% up leach.Mainsail to have Cunningham eye fittedClass emblem to be as shown.Mainsail battens to be angled as shown foreasy roller furlingJib to have 4 leach battens placed at equaldistance on leach. 4 Leach battens areoptional on GenoaForesail hanks to be bronze and for9/32"/7mm wire

37' 39' 14' 1" 389sq.ft. 36' 1" 32' 1" 12' 9" 210sq.ft. 36' 1" 32' 16' 11" 278sq.ft. 41' 8" 35' 5" 28' 3" 1004sq. ft.

11275 11880 4302 36sq. m.

10997 9775 3895 19.4sq.m.

10997 9752 5153 25.7sq.m.

12700 10800 8600 93sq.m.


Mainsail

Jib

Genoa

Asymmetric Spinnaker

®


A

F-31R™ Sail Plan F-31R is a Trademark of Ian Farrier

38"/965

31R

Detailed sail plan available from Corsair Marine

NOTES:Square Top Mainsail as shown isrequired to be Class legal.Roach to be no more than 34"/864mm,60% up leach.Mainsail is designed to be almost flushwith the top of the mast as shown -donot shorten luff, which has cutout asshown for halyard clearance.Vertical Batten to be used at head toensure head stands vertical.Tack cutaway to be as shownMainsail has 2 sets of reefpoints,Mainsail to have Cunningham eyefittedClass emblem to be as shown.Mainsail battens to be parallel withboom or slightly angled up as shownfor easy roller furling.Jib to have four leach battens placed atequal distance on leach.Jib hanks to be for 5/16"/8mm wire

40.7' 42.4' 14.3' 429sq.ft 34.3' 30.3' 13.5' 218sq.ft 45.2 39.7' 29.75' 996sq.ft 39' 34.8' 25.8' 449sq.ft


AsymmetricSpinnaker

Mainsail

Jib

Screacher

12410 12920 4360 39.7sq.m.

10450 9235 4115 20.2sq.m.

13780 12100 9070 92.2sq.m.

11890 10610 7865 41.6sq.m.

®


F-24 DECK LAYOUT

F-24 INTERIOR

Options may be shown in these layouts, andspecifications may be subject to change.

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Optional modular Galley unit

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A



AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAJib Sheet

Camcleat

Turning Blocks

Mast raising wire anchors

Stern Cleat

Mainsheet traveller

Spinn.winch & cam cleat

Barber hauler lead & cleat

Outboard

Optional lifeline eye

Optional Stanchion base

Strap around aft beam for opt. screacher. Can also be used for spinnaker

Barber Hauler eyes

Sheet track

Anchor Line lead/chock

Anchor well

Float bow eye

Spinnaker bow pole

Spinnaker pole brace wire

Sheet Winch

Bownet

Wingnet


D/board Up

AA

D/board Down

Spinnaker Sheet eye

Spin. Tack

Safety Compartment under cockpit


A

A

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AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA


AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA

Jib Sheet Camcleat

Halyard Winch

Mast raising wire anchor

Stern Cleat

Mainsheet traveller



Outboard

Spinnaker sheet pad eye



Strap around aft beam for optional screacher. Can also be used for spinnaker

Barber Hauler eyes


Water tank fill

Opt. furler line lead

Anchor well

Float bow eye

Retractable spinnaker bow pole

Sheet Winch


Bownet

Wingnet

Spinnaker tack line deadeye

Screacher drum line lead

Opt. holding tank outlet

Mast rotator control

Screacher Halyard

D/board Down

Spinn. Hal.

Main HalyardD/board Up

Jib Halyard

Turning block

Spinn. Tack

Screacher Drum Cleat

Opt. Furling line camcleat

Safety Compartment in coaming

AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA

AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA


Water tank and opt. holding tank are under forward berth

Optional aft berth

Curtain

Head

F-28 DECK LAYOUT

F-28 INTERIOR


F-31 AFT COCKPIT DECK LAYOUT

F-31 AFT COCKPIT INTERIOR

Options may be shown in these layouts, andspecifications may be subject to change.

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AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA


AAAAAAAAAAAA

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AAAA

AAAAAAAAAAAA

Table

Berth slides forward to form double

Watertank and opt. holding tank are under fwd. berth

Jib Sheet Camcleat

Halyard Winch




AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA

AAA

D/Bd Clamcleat (down)

Jib Halyard Spinn. Halyard

D/Bb. Clamcleat (up)Main Halyard

Halyard Turning Blocks

Spinn. Tackline

F-31R Mast raising wire anchor

Stern Cleat

Mainsheet traveller



Outboard

Pad eye for Spinn. sheet and Shroud tensioner (if used)



Strap around aft beam for F-31R opt. screacher. Can also be used for spinnaker

Barber Hauler eyes

Sheet tracks


Water tank fill

Opt. Holding Tank outlet

F-31 Mast raising wire anchor

Opt. furler line lead

Anchor well

Float bow eye

Spinnaker bow pole

Bownet

Wingnet

Spinnaker pole brace wire

Sheet Winch

Opt. Lifting eye

Safety Compartment hatch


TYPICAL TRAILER SETUP(F-31 Aft Cockpit Version Shown)

Always check that trailering setup complies with local regulations

All supports should bear evenlyand equally against boat


Trailer lights - on a separate removable bar mounted on transom or Aft Mast Support, with cable run independently over boat.

Spinnaker pole can be removed or stored vertically for trailering or docking. Retracted on F-28.

If required, separate support bracket can be made for bow to raise mast above towing vehicle. Mast can be moved further forward if required to limit overhang out the rear.

Mast Raising Pole

If necessary, light lines can be run each side to mast raising wire anchor points to stabilize pole sideways.

Trailer winch line being used to raise mast

Bracket for mast on pulpit.

Mast in trailering position

Mast in raising position

Rudder in raised trailering position

Trailer tie down loop

Tie down line

Mast support brace (to traveller)

Wire/line to restrain pole fore and aft.

Aft Mast Support

Keel board should curve up to match hull at aft end

Keelboard must extend forward past daggerboard case aft end

AAAA

AA

Inner supports bear against side of hull

Outer supports bear against floats (need to be lowered to unfold boat on trailer)

Keelboard


Seller warrants, for a period of one year from the date ofdelivery, to the original purchaser, that the F-24/F-27/F-28/F-31will be free of defects in material and workmanship. Seller'ssole obligation under this warranty shall be limited to replacing,correcting or repairing any part manufactured by Seller which isdetermined by Seller to be defective by reason of faultyworkmanship or material. This warranty shall not apply to:

a. Defects caused by accident, misuse, neglect, improperrepair, lack of maintenance, normal wear and tear, negligentoperation, or improper modification by persons other thanSeller's employees.

b. All parts or accessories not supplied by Seller and anypart not manufactured by Seller. Any warranty on such parts, ifpossible, will be passed on to Purchaser, and Seller will agree toact as Purchaser's agent in any warranty claims on these parts.

c. Any discoloration, crazing or cracking on all exteriorfinishes (including paint, gelcoat and anodizing). Only the bestgelcoat and paints are used on the F-24/F-27/F-28/F-31 but theycannot be warranted as they may be affected by climate or otherfactors beyond the control of the Seller.

d. Any damage caused by improperly rigging, trailering, orlaunching.

e. Defects or faulty workmanship caused by persons otherthan the manufacturer, a currently authorized dealer, or aCorsair-approved repair facility, in modifying the F-24/F-27/F-28/F-31 or in adding, altering, or removing equipment to the F-24/F-27/F-28/F-31 whether or not such equipment was suppliedby the manufacturer, or if such modifications, additions, orequipment removal by such persons have not been performed instrict accordance with accepted boat and yacht building practiceand approved in writing by the manufacturer.

f. Any vessel that has been used in a trans-oceanic passageexceeding two hundred (200) nautical miles from any coast.

Seller further warrants, for a period of five (5) years, that thehulls, beams, and folding system of the F-24/F-27/F-28/F-31shall be free of any structural failure during normal operation.Seller's obligation under this warranty shall be limited toreplacing, correcting or repairing any failed part which, in thejudgment of the seller, has impaired the structural integrity ofthe F-24/F-27/F-28/F-31. This structural failure warranty shall

be void if Seller should determine that said components havebeen subjected to any abuse, including but not limited tocollision with other vessels, structures or objects.

Seller further warrants, for a period of five (5) years, that thehull, deck, floats, beams, and other fiberglass partsmanufactured by seller will be free of voids and blisters. Seller'sobligation under this warranty shall be limited to repairing thevoid or blister. Seller reserves the right to exclude from thiswarranty provision those portions of any vessel subjected toprolonged or extended immersion unless previously protectedby proper application of appropriate anti-foulant paint.

Purchaser shall be responsible for returning the F-24/F-27/F-28/F-31, or any defective part, to the Seller's plant, for anywarranty repairs, with all transportation charges paid by thePurchaser. Seller, may at its option, direct Purchaser totransport the F-24/F-27/F-28/F-31 to an independent repairfacility for any needed replacements, corrections, or repairs.

Purchaser agrees to promptly notify Seller of any conditionor part which Purchaser believes to be defective within thirty(30) days of discovering defect.

Purchaser and Seller agree that THE FOREGOINGWARRANTY IS EXPRESSLY IN LIEU OF ANY AND ALLOTHER REPRESENTATIONS, WARRANTIES ORCONDITIONS EXPRESSED OR IMPLIED, INCLUDINGANY IMPLIED WARRANTIES OR CONDITIONS OFMERCHANTABILITY OR FITNESS FOR A PARTICULARPURPOSE, AND IS IN LIEU OF ANY OBLIGATIONS ORLIABILITIES OF SELLER TO PURCHASER, WHETHERFOR LOSS OF USE OF THE F-24/F-27/F-28/F-31, LOSS OFTIME, INCONVENIENCE, COMMERCIAL LOSS, OR FORDIRECT, SPECIAL OR CONSEQUENTIAL DAMAGES OROTHERWISE ARISING OUT OF THE USE OF THE F-24/F-27/F-28/F-31. THE PURCHASER SPECIFICALLYACKNOWLEDGES AND AGREES THAT THEFOREGOING SHALL SURVIVE ANY FUNDAMENTALBREACH OF THIS AGREEMENT. IN SOMEJURISDICTIONS, THE MANUFACTURER IS PROHIBITEDFROM EXCLUDING OR LIMITING IMPLIEDWARRANTIES. IN THOSE JURISDICTIONS THEMANUFACTURER EXPRESSLY LIMITS ANY IMPLIEDWARRANTIES TO THE GREATEST EXTENT AND TOTHE SHORTEST DURATION ALLOWED BY LAW.

WARRANTY AND LIMITATION OF LIABILITY


MAINTENANCE & SAFETYCHECKLIST

For continued safe and enjoyable operation, it is essentialthat regular maintenance be carried out. Trimarans areactually more like aircraft in many aspects, and it is importantto conduct regular maintenance and safety checks to locateany potential problems before they become serious.

The following Maintenance Safety Checksheet hasthus been developed and it is strongly recommended thata full check be undertaken every 6 months.

In general, after every sail, the complete boat and trailershould always be thoroughly washed down with fresh water.This is very important to keep that new look, and to preventrust taking hold on the trailer. Particularly wash out thebrakes and suspension area of the trailer. Regularly checkthe bilges of the center hull and the floats for any water.

Sails should always be rolled up or folded (the same wayas you receive them) - dried first if wet.

If possible, keep your boat under cover, as this will ensurethe finish keeps its gloss for the life of the boat. Even the bestgelcoat finish will eventually begin to fade.

MAST

❒ Masthead sheaves should turn freely, and clevisor pivot pins should not be worn or showsigns of distortion.

❒ Spinnaker halyard and Jib halyard sheavesshould turn freely, and clevis or pivot pins shouldnot be worn or show signs of distortion.

❒ Forestay tab/nose should be checked for anycracks or signs of distortion

❒ All other stay attachments to mast should bechecked for distortion or corrosion.

❒ Mast step should be checked for any distortionor cracks

❒ Mast step sheaves should turn freely, and clevisor pivot pins should not be worn or show signs ofdistortion.

❒ Boom gooseneck pins should be checked for anysigns of wear or distortion

RUNNING RIGGING

❒ All halyards should be checked for broken

strands or wear, particularly where they enter themast when sails are up, and where rope clutchesengage. A sleeve over rope tail at rope clutch areacan prolong life and give better clutch holding power

❒ Spinnaker halyard should have any worn area atthe top cut out and the halyard retied or spliced to thesnap shackle.

STANDING RIGGING

❒ All stays should be checked for broken strandsor corrosion, particularly at end swages. If any staysare badly kinked, replacement should be considered.

Stainless steel is prone to fatigue, and in a trailer boat itis not uncommon to get kinks in the stays while rigging or de-rigging. This further fatigues the wire, and even though thestays are oversize, it is strongly recommended that all staysbe replaced after 3 to 5 years.

❒ Check all turnbuckles for corrosion, and that alllocking rings or pins are in place, and work correctly.

HULLS

❒ Check bow U-bolt and spinnaker eye for anymovement.

❒ Check all chainplates for any signs of movement

❒ Check deck to hull joins where visible for anydelamination or cracking in join.

❒ Check wing nets, particularly eyelets for wear.Wingnets should be replaced every three or four years.

The taped edges are usually the first to fail, and sometimesjust redoing these will extend the net life. If replacing nets,avoid any close weave fabrics as these can trap windunderneath, creating unwanted lift. Bow nets, in particular,should always be of a very open weave.

❒ Check rudder case for any sign of stress cracks,or corrosion, particularly at lower end. Rudder bladeshould swing up and down easily in case, but withoutany slop.

❒ Check rudder blade or shaft around bottom edgeof rudder case for any stress cracks. Replace ifnecessary


❒ Check leading and trailing edges of rudder bladefor any delamination or splitting.

❒ Check rudder control lines for wear, and replacepull down line every year

❒ Check daggerboard around bottom edge of hullfor any stress cracks

❒ Check leading and trailing edges of daggerboardfor any delamination

❒ Check control lines for wear and replace ifnecessary

❒ Check traveller welds for any signs of cracking

❒ Check Hull area around Lower Folding Strutbrackets for any signs of damage/cracking

❒ On early model F-31s check around main hull/deck join flange just under forward beams for anycracking in join.

❒ Check all deck fittings for any cracks or wear.

BEAMS

❒ Check all beam join flanges for any signs ofdelamination or cracking.

WARNINGAny delamination or cracking in beam flanges shouldbe

regarded as serious and must be repaired without delay.Otherwise a small crack can grow until it can cause failure.

❒ Check top non-skidded surface of beams for anymovement or ‘softness’ under foot, or if ‘oil canning’or rippling of the top beam surface can be observedwhile sailing. Must be inspected and repairedimmediately as this could be a serious fault.

❒ Check that plastic compression pads remain oninner ends of beams and that they bear against deck/hull when floats are extended. Also check around thisarea for any signs of damage or cracking, on bothdeck/hull and beam.

❒ Lightly grease beam bolt threads with a teflongrease

FOLDING SYSTEM

❒ Check all pivot pins for corrosion, and thatcirclips or nuts are properly fitted.

❒ Check hull and beam brackets for any loosenessor cracking

❒ Check all folding struts have plastic bushes atpivot points, and that there are no major cracks inwelds (these welds are not structurally important, andsmall cracks are not significant - these resulting fromflex during folding)

❒ Check locking pins (for when floats areretracted) and brackets for excessive wear. Rubberstop should be replaced if worn excessively.

❒ Check that floats do not bear directly on to themain hull. There should be a bumper on the hull side,or a minimum 1/8" gap.

TRAILER

❒ Check Trailer winch line for wearCAUTION

When raising the mast by using the winch there isconsiderable tension on the jib halyard and winchline. Be doubly careful when checking these for wearas failure of either one could result in severe injury.

❒ Check all trailer supports bear evenly againsthulls

❒ Trailer should be regularly cleaned and oiled

❒ Check wheel bearings for wear

❒ Check operation of brakes.

Any defects or problems found during this checkshould be remedied immediately.

This Checklist is intended as a guide only and maynot cover every potential problem. Owner shouldalways check every aspect of boat on a regular basis.


Corsair Marine, Inc., 150 Reed Ct., Chula Vista, CA 91911, U.S.A.www.corsairmarine.com

Documents

corsair sailing manual