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Published in Canada. 2016.

ISBN-13: 978-0-9950284-3-2

Rose, Stephanie.

Good Clean Fun: THE Idea Book for Creative Melt and Pour Soap Projects

Second Edition 14 13 12 11 10 / 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1


DI SCLA I M ER This eBook contains home recipes that have not been tested beyond personal use. The

information in this eBook is not advice, and should not be treated as such. The information in

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While we do our best to provide useful information, any reliance you place on such information

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TA B LE OF CONTENTS

ARE YOU READY FOR SOME GOOD CLEAN FUN? .......................................................................................... 2

RESOURCES AND SUPPLIES .......................................................................................................................... 3

WHAT IS MELT AND POUR SOAP? ................................................................................................................ 4

TYPES OF MELT AND POUR SOAP ................................................................................................................. 5

OTHER INGREDIENTS ................................................................................................................................... 6

EQUIPMENT ................................................................................................................................................. 8

MELT AND POUR STEP-BY-STEP INSTRUCTIONS ......................................................................................... 11

MELT AND POUR SOAP PROJECTS .............................................................................................................. 13

LAVENDER OATMEAL SOAP CUPCAKES ...................................................................................................... 15

SEASHELL GUEST SOAPS ............................................................................................................................. 18

GARDEN FLOWERS SOAP ........................................................................................................................... 20

ROSE PETAL SOAP ...................................................................................................................................... 22

WINTER FOREST SWIRL SOAP .................................................................................................................... 24

TRIPLE LAYER SOAP .................................................................................................................................... 27

OMBRE SOAP ............................................................................................................................................. 30

SEA SPONGE SOAP ..................................................................................................................................... 32

ROSEMARY LEMON STARS AND BARS (SOAP-ON-A-ROPE) ........................................................................ 35

HONEYCOMB SOAP.................................................................................................................................... 39

BOTANICAL SOAP....................................................................................................................................... 42

WILDLY FUN ANIMAL SOAPS ...................................................................................................................... 46

RUB-A-DUB DUCKIE SOAP .......................................................................................................................... 49

EMBOSSED CALENDULA SOAP ................................................................................................................... 51

SOAP-CUTTING GUIDE BOX ........................................................................................................................ 53

ABOUT THE AUTHOR ................................................................................................................................. 55

ARE YOU R EADY FOR SO ME GOOD CLEA N FUN? I love making soap. It is such fun that sometimes I can't sleep at night because I have a

new idea I want to try. I write it down and, despite my best efforts to wait until morning,

visions of colorful soap projects dance in my head, as I dream of the next time I'm melting

and pouring my way into crafting bliss.

Melt and pour soap making is a very simple way to make gorgeous projects. If you can

melt soap then pour it into a mold you can craft a soap project in minutes. Plus, it’s easy

to provide a creative flare to the projects. Adding color, scent, and botanical elements

allows you to personalize the soap. Techniques like swirling, layering, and embossing

make it even more decorative.

While the finished projects might seem difficult to do because they are so professional-

looking, they’re actually so easy that you will probably master them the first time!

I’m an organic gardener and love to use what I find in the garden in soap and natural

beauty recipes. This book tends to lean towards organic-looking projects with a nod to

nature. I search out the melt and pour soap bases that are free from added surfactants

and preservatives and, luckily, there are plenty of options.

I'm also a mom who loves crafting with my son. Together, we have created some designs

that appeal to both the young and the young-at-heart. Some of the projects in this book

recycle his toys or have a cheerful element and a youthful perspective. The projects are

fun to recreate, but there is plenty of room to tailor the projects and add your own stamp

to (both figuratively and literally).

This book was created to show a unique decorative technique in each project that you can

use in your own personalized creations. If you can follow a basic recipe, you will easily be

able to replicate these projects at home. After that, you can use the techniques you

learned to bring brand new ideas to life—which will hopefully be in the daytime, after a

good night’s sleep!

Now, let’s have some Good Clean Fun!

RESOUR CES A ND SUPPLI ES Before you get started on your soap-making adventure, I have created a resource and

supplies page for this book:

CLICK HERE FOR THE RESOURCE GUIDE

This page is meant to help you find everything from the ingredients to the tools you will

need to get started at home.

The resources and supplies page is updated regularly to ensure that the items you need to

make these projects can be found easily.

You will also find links to the ingredients for the projects in this book, and in some cases,

there will be a link to step-by-step photos if you need them. If you would like a bit more

visual instruction, these links will help you get there.

If you have printed this book, then type the following URL into your browser to find the

up-to-date resources and supplies page: https://gardentherapy.ca/melt-pour-soap-

resource/

You will also find hundreds more DIY garden projects, yummy recipes, and crafty goodness

over at Garden Therapy.

VISIT GARDEN THERAPY HERE

Sign up for the FREE Garden Therapy Newsletter to get a weekly update of What’s in

Season: a collection of crafts, DIY garden projects, and yummy recipes straight to your

inbox.

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WHA T I S MELT AND POUR SOAP? Melt and pour is soap prepared using a pre-made base which is melted down and—after

having your preferred combination of fragrance and color added—poured into a mold

where it hardens and becomes a ready-to-use soap.

Melt and pour is the easiest and quickest soap-making method because it skips the

complicated step of saponification (the chemical process that actually produces soap) and

gets you straight into the fun stuff: personalizing your soap with fragrance, color, and

other additions.

Working with melt and pour soap also means that you don’t have to work with lye, which

is extremely caustic before saponification. Having to carefully measure ingredients and

work with dangerous chemicals can be daunting and risky, none of which will be found in

this book! Melt and pour projects are safe, fun, and very easy to do.

There is a wide range of variety in melt and pour soap bases. It’s important to read the

ingredients of the base before you start. I look for ingredients like glycerin, shea butter,

cocoa butter, olive oil, aloe, honey, and water. I stay away from those ingredients that I

don’t easily recognize. In some cases, there are additives to the soap base to help it

perform in a recipe. My suggestion for choosing soap is to read the ingredients in the

package and make the decision that is right for you.

WH ER E T O B UY M EL T A ND PO UR S O A P B A S E

Good melt and pour soap bases may be found at your local soap or candle shop, or online.

CLICK HERE FOR THE RESOURCE GUIDE


TYPES OF MELT A ND PO UR SOAP When faced with all the different options of melt and pour soap bases, it can be a little

overwhelming to choose one, especially if it is your first time tackling a soap-making

project.

Think about what type of ingredients you want in your soap to suit the skin of whoever

will be using it (take into account dry skin, sensitive skin, and any allergies) and also about

the way you want your soap to look when it’s finished.

There are a wide variety of soap bases, some scented, some unscented, some clear, some

white, but they can all be split into main categories: opaque and clear.

O PA Q UE

Opaque soap bases will give you solid-colored soaps that are not translucent. The base will

be white or off-white. The opaque bases used in this book are:

Triple Butter Soap Base (shea butter, mango butter, cocoa butter)

Oatmeal Shea Soap Base

C L EA R

Clear soap bases are translucent. Clear soap bases are best to use for projects that add

decorative imbeds that you want to be able to see through the soap. To get a truly clear

soap, there are not many options without chemicals. There is an option for SLES & SLS free

soap which can be used in the recipes calling for clear soap base.

The clear bases used in this book are:

Carrot, Cucumber & Aloe Vera

Honey

Crystal Clear

Crystal SLES & SLS free

OTHER I NGR EDI ENTS

C O L O R

Now that you’ve chosen your soap base, it’s time for the fun part: coloring it! There are a

few different options for coloring your melt and pour soaps.

Na t u r a l C o l o r

Natural coloring gives soap a more rustic look of muted tones and natural hues. Ground-

up dried herbs and other organics work well as natural colors, keeping in mind that they

will perform differently with melt and pour soap than with cold process soap-making.

While you may not get the same bright hues as with synthetic colors, you will get natural

tints and the peace of mind that what is going on your skin is good for you.

Here is a list of natural pigments to try:

Green – spirulina, sage powder

Golden yellow – safflower powder

Yellow – turmeric

Orange (yellowish) – annatto seed powder

Orange (reddish) – paprika

Pink – madder root

Purple – ratanjot

Brown – cocoa powder

S o a p Dy e s

If you want a bright, vibrant color, more color options, or just something more consistent

than natural pigment, you may want to try using dyes as colorants. Soap dyes come in

both liquid and solid forms. Be sure to use a dye made for soap as these are made to be

skin-safe and non-staining.

Liquid Dyes

Liquid dyes are more consistent and predictable than solid dyes, so I would recommend them for time-saving. Liquid dye will give you a consistent color throughout the soap base. Some liquid dyes are called “non-bleeding,” which means that the color will not bleed into other parts of your soap that are a different color.

Solid Dyes

Less predictable than liquid dyes, solid dyes require you to melt the dye with some soap in a separate heat-proof container until it is liquid, and then mix it with the soap base. This

method will give you more variation in color which can look very pretty. Solid dyes are usually inexpensive and last longer than liquid dyes.

FR A G R A NC E

Soap can be scented with either synthetic fragrance oils or natural essential oils. Scents like “apple”, “cucumber”, and “rain” are not available in essential oils and so some people choose fragrance oils for the variety and the low cost. If, like me, you are sensitive to synthetic fragrances, there are plenty of essential oil options to choose from. The recipes in this book contain creative and lovely essential oil combinations that not only enhance the soap, but also make both crafting it and bathing with it more delightful. Please note that essential oils can be powerful and should only be used with the approval

of a healthcare practitioner.

Es s e n t i a l O i l s

Essential oils are extracted from plants and packaged in small bottles, usually fitted with a

dropper. As there is no separate regulation for essential oils, there is a range in both price

and quality available. I have listed the essential oil brands that I prefer on the Resources

Page.

The best way to get started with essential oils is to purchase a starter pack and start using

them. You will quickly learn which scents you love and which you don’t.

Some of my favorite combinations are:

lavender / grapefruit

lemongrass / ginger

rosemary / spearmint

basil / bergamot

sweet orange / vanilla / cinnamon

lemon / lime / mandarin / sweet orange /pink grapefruit

peppermint / vanilla (candy cane)

lemon / vanilla (lemon meringue pie)

I s o p r o p y l A l c o h o l

Isopropyl alcohol is very handy to have when making melt and pour soap. Keep some in a

small spray top bottle while making soap projects as it will be noted in some of the

recipes. Isopropyl alcohol helps to remove bubbles from melt and pour projects as well as

helping individual layers to stick together.

EQUI PMENT To start making melt and pour soap projects, you will need a few pieces of equipment.

Many of these are commonly available in your kitchen. The more specialized other

equipment can be easy to find in craft stores and online.

M I C R O WA V E O R DO UB L E B O I L ER

You can use either a microwave or a double boiler to melt your soap base. I recommend

using whatever you feel most comfortable with and have available.

A double boiler works well for very large batches of soap as well as very small batches of

soap.

A double boiler will melt a large amount of soap more quickly than a microwave as

well as being able to fit the whole batch in at once.

Very small batches, perhaps for decorative accents, are also better in a double

boiler, as they go from solid to liquid so fast that it is easy to burn a very small

batch in the microwave.

A microwave works best for a typical soap batch, such as the two-pound block that melt

and pour soap base is often sold in.

S O A P M O L DS

Silicone molds are readily available and they work wonderfully for soap projects. They can

be sold as soap molds, loaf molds, cupcake molds, or candy molds, but really you can use

any silicone mold you like for melt and pour soap.

Hard plastic molds are also available, generally for soap-making and candy-making. These

come in many more design options but they also take a bit of extra effort to unmold.

Metal molds such as cupcake and cake pans can also be used but as with hard plastic

molds they can be difficult to remove the soap from. Tip: Shrink soap by placing it in the

freezer and it will release from the mold more easily.

H EA T P R O O F C O NT A I NE R S

While it can be tempting to try and melt the soap in the plastic box that the soap base

comes in, this can quickly ruin a perfectly good soap project by melting the plastic as well.

It’s best to use heatproof glass like mason jars or Pyrex measuring cups when melting in

the microwave or use a metal pot on a double boiler for the stovetop method.

S O A P - C UT T I NG G UI DE B O X

I like to use a soap-cutting guide box (soap cutter) to get clean and even cuts. You can

purchase a soap-cutting guide or make your own using the instructions in the “Projects”

section of this book.

You could also freehand cut your soap with a knife for more rustic recipes that look

natural when cut in uneven shapes.

EM B O S S I NG S T A M P S

Embossing stamps leave a deep impression in soap projects and look best with fairly

simple designs. You can buy rubber embossing stamps for soap making or use any rubber

stamp as long as you can fit into a soap mold.

Stamps that are attached to wood blocks or foam will need to be removed first so just the

rubber part is used in the mold. The shape of the rubber stamp itself should be a uniform

geometric shape because the outline of the rubber stamp will emboss into the soap as

well.

MELT A ND POUR STEP- B Y- STEP I NSTRUCTI ONS Now you’re ready to tackle your first melt and pour soap project! Before you start in on

any of the more complex soap projects in this book, make sure you understand the basic

steps of making melt and pour soap.

S t e p 1 : C u t

Begin by cutting your soap base into cubes approximately one inch in size.

S t e p 2: M e l t

Melt the soap base in either a microwave or a double boiler. You want it to just melt, but

not cook. If you are using a microwave, melt in 30- to 60-second bursts and check on it in

between each burst. Remove it from the microwave before it starts steaming—don’t

worry if there are still a few chunks, those will melt once you take it out of the microwave

and give it a good stir. The key is not to leave the soap unattended. Stand by and stir often

to be sure it melts properly.

S t e p 3: C o l o r

Add color. The amount will depend on the individual project you’re making, what type of

colorant you are using, and how deep you want your color to be. Stir well.

S t e p 4: Fr a gr a n c e

Add essential oils and stir. Remember, a little essential oil goes a long way! In general you

need one teaspoon of essential oil per pound of soap base. As some essential oil

combinations are stronger, the recipes in this book have been adjusted to get the right

fragrance in each of the projects.

S t e p 5: P o u r

Pour your soap mixture into the mold of your choice. Immediately spray the surface of the

project with isopropyl alcohol to remove bubbles.

S t e p 6: Un m o l d

Once your soap is completely solidified, unmold it. If you are using individual soap molds,

you’re done now! If you are using a large mold to make a “soap loaf,” the next step is to

cut it into bars using a soap-cutting guide box. Instructions to make a DIY soap-cutting

guide box can be found in the “Projects” chapter.

MELT A ND POUR SOAP P ROJ ECTS

Lavender Oatmeal Soap Cupcakes

Seashell Guest Soaps

Garden Flowers Soap

Rose Petal Soap

Winter Forest Swirl Soap

Triple Layer Soap

Ombre Soap

Sea Sponge Soap

Rosemary Lemon Stars and Bars (Soap -on-a-Rope)

Honeycomb Soap

Botanical Soap

Wildly Fun Animal Soaps

Rub-a-Dub Duckie Soap

Embossed Calendula Soap

Soap Cutting Guide Box

LAVENDER OATMEAL SOA P CUPCA K ES This lavender oatmeal soap is soothing and calming for your skin. And any recipe that uses

my garden-grown lavender rates especially high in my books! Lavender is my favorite

ingredient, especially when it comes to natural beauty recipes, a slight addiction which

can be seen in a simple search for lavender crafts on my blog. But along with being one of

my favorite scents, dried lavender buds make this soap as beautiful to look at as it feels

when you lather up.

To make this soap as a gift for holiday gift-giving or for someone special, make it in

cupcake molds and then wrap it in a cupcake wrapper. Who wouldn't want to get a

lavender oatmeal soap cupcake as a gift? I can imagine even the burliest person out there

would want to suds up with these.

M a t e r i a l s

Makes 12 soap cupcakes

2 lbs oatmeal shea melt and pour soap base

Silicone cupcake mold for 12

Large heatproof container

Microwave or double boiler

1 tsp lavender essential oil

Spray bottle of isopropyl alcohol

1 tbsp dried lavender buds

Cupcake liners (optional)

M A K E I T !

Look for a natural soap base that has shea butter and oatmeal in it. You can find an

updated list of my favorites on the resources page.

Note: if you would like to add oatmeal separately, then grind a few teaspoons of organic

oats and add it to the melted mixture when you add the lavender buds.

Use a sharp knife to cut your soap base into one-inch cubes or smaller. Put the cubes in a

heatproof container and put that in the microwave. Melt the soap base on medium-high

in the microwave or double boiler.

Add one teaspoon of lavender essential oil and one tablespoon of dried lavender buds.

Stir the ingredients well and pour the soap into silicone cupcake molds. I chose a cupcake

mold that was quite tall but I only filled each cupcake section halfway so that the soap was

a manageable size when finished. Spray the surface of each cupcake with isopropyl

alcohol.

Add a few extra lavender buds on the top of the soap if you think it needs it and allow the

soap to dry undisturbed for at least an hour. When the soap is hard you can unmold it and

use it right away or wrap it up for gifts.

A simple parchment paper cupcake liner makes a great wrapper for these lavender

oatmeal soap cupcakes. I like the natural look of parchment paper, but you can use any

cupcake liner that you think would add to the presentation. Use a bit of garden twine to

tie it up and, if you have a stem of lavender, add that as well.

SEA SHELL GUEST SOA PS Do you remember guest soaps that were popular oh-so-many years ago? They seem to

have fallen out of favor and I’m not sure why. Guest soap’s smaller size makes them both

decorative and useful in the guest bathroom, and it is less wasteful when it’s time to swap

out the shrunken soap that has been used for a fresh bar. Plus, you can add a bowl of

them to the bathroom and they scent the room. Bring back the guest-soap trend with

these pretty seashell soaps!

M A T E R I A L S

Makes 20-24 seashell soap bars

1 lb shea butter melt and pour soap base

Seashell candy or soap mold



1/2 tsp mint essential oil

1/2 tsp lime essential oil

Blue soap color (optional)


M A K E I T !

This project will show you how to make these into seashell soaps but you can make any

shape, color, and scent that you choose just by switching up the ingredients and the mold

that you use. You can even skip the color altogether and leave them white.


heatproof container. Melt the soap base on medium-high in the microwave or double

boiler.

When the soap base is melted, add the essential oils and color.

Stir the ingredients well and pour the soap into candy or small soap molds. Immediately

spray with isopropyl alcohol.

When the soap is hard you can unmold it and use it right away or wrap it up for gifts.

GAR DEN FLOWER S SOAP Floral soaps can be shaped like flowers, scented with floral essential oils, or filled with

added botanicals. These soaps have all three! They are a celebration of the garden, all in a

small bundle of floral delightfulness. Choose any of the three elements to personalize your

soap project, or go for them all!

M A T E R I A L S

Makes 6 floral soap bars

1 lb triple butter melt and pour soap base

Silicone sunflower soap mold



1/2 tsp lavender essential oil

1/4 tsp ylang-ylang essential oil

1/4 tsp bergamot essential oil

1/4 tsp dried lavender buds

1/4 tsp chamomile flowers

1/4 tsp dried monarda (bee balm) petals

Madder root powder (color)


M A K E I T !


heatproof container and put that in the microwave or on the double boiler.

When the soap base is melted, add the essential oils and botanicals. Add in madder root

powder and blend well to get a salmon-pink color.

Note: there are soap blends that are created specifically to suspend anything you add in

the base and disperse it evenly. Those bases are simple to use, but they do tend to have

more chemicals added to aid in the suspension. I chose to use a natural triple butter (shea,

mango, and cocoa butter) soap base for this project. The botanicals can be seen

throughout but also more heavily decorate the base of the soap. I love the final effect!

Stir the ingredients well and pour the soap into silicone sunflower molds. This particular

soap mold will make very large soap bars so you can pour them a bit short if you like and

get some extra bars out of the recipe. Spray the soap with isopropyl alcohol.

When the soap is hard you can unmold it and use it right away or wrap it up for gifts.

ROSE PETAL SOAP Rose is a traditional and romantic ingredient to use in soap and this recipe is a wonderful

use of dried rose petals. Rose essential oil is very expensive so I scent this soap with other

floral essential oils or use a premade floral blend that contains rose essential oil.

M A T E R I A L S

Makes 12 rose soap bars

2 lbs oatmeal shea melt and pour soap base

Silicone cupcake mold for 12



2 tsp floral essential oil (rose, lavender, jasmine, neroli, geranium, chamomile)

Madder root powder or soap dye

Dried rose petals

M A K E I T !


heatproof container. Melt the soap base on medium-high in the microwave or double

boiler.

When the soap base is melted, add the essential oils and madder root powder or soap dye

and blend well to get a pink color.

Stir the ingredients well and pour the soap into silicone cupcake molds. Add dried rose

petals to the top of each cupcake as you pour, to be sure they adhere to the top of the

soap before it develops a skin. Press the rose petals into the top of the soap gently. They

should still appear to float above the soap.

This project can be done with a variety of dried flowers such as calendula, chamomile, bee

balm, and peony. Vary the colors and the scents to match the flowers. You can also use

herbs (like saffron), but be mindful of how hard the dried herbs are to avoid making a

scratchy soap.

WI NTER FOR EST SWI R L SOAP This winter forest soap recipe smells like a walk through the forest in the brisk winter air.

It is made with two colors of soap swirled together like cool winds in evergreen trees.

The swirl technique can be used with any color or scent of soap as well, so once you have

tried this project you can incorporate swirls into your other soaps too. Swirls in melt and

pour soap can be varied based on what soap bases you are swirling. For the most

consistent results, use the same soap base in different colors, but you can always play

around with different effects to personalize your projects.

Winter forest soap is scented with essential oils from forest trees, making it both fresh

and woodsy. As a bonus, the combination of essential oils will perk you up and help with

the dreariness that comes with the long winter nights and short days. Quite refreshing for

your morning shower!

M A T E R I A L S

Makes 10-12 winter forest soap bars

3 lbs oatmeal shea melt and pour soap base (1.5 boxes)

2 large heatproof containers

Microwave or two double boilers

Spirulina powder

Green soap colorant

2/3 teaspoon cypress essential oil

2/3 teaspoon cedarwood essential oil

15 drops sweet birch essential oil

Silicone loaf soap mold


Soap-cutting box (optional)

M A K E I T !

For this recipe you will use three pounds of oatmeal shea melt and pour soap base in a

large silicone soap mold. It comes in a two-pound box but I find that that doesn't fill up

the large silicone loaf mold enough to get the larger, almost square bars for this project.

Cut one two-pound box of soap base into one-inch cubes and add it to a large heatproof

container. Cut the other pound of soap base into cubes and add it to a second large

heatproof container.

The key to getting a swirl with melt and pour soap is all in the timing. The soap base in

both colors needs to be melted together and poured into the mold together quickly. To do

this, use the microwave to alternate melting the soap base for each or use two double

boilers and melt them simultaneously.

To melt the soap in the microwave, start with the two pounds of soap and get the scents

and colors ready for when it comes out. When the soap is almost melted but has a few

lumps, put the other pound of soap base in the microwave to melt while you stir and add

scent and colors to the first batch. When the second is somewhat melted and lumpy, take

it out of the microwave and stir in the colors and scents, while adding the first batch back

into the microwave for 20 seconds or so. Keep switching them in and out of the

microwave as you stir and melt the base in both.

Color the two-pound soap base with spirulina, a natural green powder that provides a pale

green, speckled look. Then use green soap dye for the other pound of soap base to get a

brighter color. You could certainly use soap dyes or natural colorants for both if you

choose.

Divide the essential oils into thirds and add 2/3 to the two-pound batch and 1/3 to the

other batch. It doesn't really matter if you get it divided perfectly, the soap will all be

mixed together in the end so it will be fine if you only scent the larger batch. Usually you

will add one teaspoon of essential oil per pound of soap, but I found these scents to be

very powerful and so I used much less. You are welcome to add more essential oils if you

like a stronger-smelling soap.

Once you have your two colors of soap base melted and scented, then you can swirl! Pour

the 2 lb soap base into a silicone loaf mold and then immediately pour the melted 1 lb of

soap base in as well.

Add the second color by pouring it along the length of the mould and side to side. Use a

chopstick to quickly make a few zig zags in the soap and then let it be. It can be tempting

to over fuss with the soap, but this will muddle the colors too much!

Spray the surface with isopropyl alcohol and leave it to set.

When the soap has set, remove it from the mold and use a soap cutting box to cut even

sections, or cut them freehand. Wrap the soap in garden twine and a fresh-cut evergreen

branch if you plan to give them as gifts.

TRI PLE LA YER SOAP This triple layer melt and pour soap is so much easier to make than it looks. Don't tell

anyone how simple it was to make and they will be suitably impressed with your crafting

skills. Choose any three colors or adapt this recipe to make as many layers as you want for

a colorful homemade soap project that speaks to your personal style.

M A T E R I A L S

Makes 10-12 soap bars

2 lbs triple butter soap base

Liquid soap dye in three colors

1 teaspoon essential oil divided into thirds (I used lavender)






M A K E I T !

Cut up the soap base into three sections, and then cut each section into one-inch cubes,

being careful to keep the thirds separate.

Add one third of the soap base to the heatproof container. Melt the soap base on

medium-high in the microwave or double boiler.

Pour the first layer into the silicone loaf soap mold and immediately spray the surface with

isopropyl alcohol. Allow the layer to dry until firm before adding the second layer.

For the next layer, follow the first two steps of melting a third of soap, adding in a third of

the essential oil, and adding in color. Spray the surface of the first layer with isopropyl

alcohol to encourage the layers to stick together, and then pour the second color of soap

onto the first color in the mold. Allow the layer to dry before adding the third layer.

For the third layer, follow the first two steps of melting the remaining soap, adding in the

rest of the essential oil, and adding in another color. Spray the surface of the second layer

with isopropyl alcohol to encourage the layers to stick together, and then pour the third

color of soap onto the second color in the mold. Allow the layer to dry before removing it

from the mold and cutting the loaf into bars.

Of course, you can do this process as many times as you want to get four, five, six, or more

layers of soap. The only trouble you could run into is that if the soap cools too much

between layers, it can separate when cut. Prevent this by working quickly, spraying the

surface with alcohol, and pouring each layer just as the one below it hardens. Also, cut the

soap when it is firm but still warm. Do not chill to soap to make it easier to remove from

the mold as chilling can contribute to the layers separating.

OMB RE SOA P This attractive ombre soap is lightly scented with lavender and moisturizing with shea,

cocoa, and mango butters. While it looks like a high-end decorative soap from a fancy

shop, it's surprisingly easy to make at home.

Follow the previous instructions for making triple layer soap with a few tweaks to make it

ombre.

M A T E R I A L S

Makes 10-12 soap bars

2 lbs triple butter soap base

Lavender soap dye

1 teaspoon lavender essential oil divided into thirds




Mason jar or 1 cup heatproof container



M A K E I T !

Tailor your soap dye to be one color in three shades. To do this, remove a few cubes of

soap and add them to a smaller heatproof measuring cup or a mason jar. Melt the cubes

in the microwave or double boiler and add a bunch of dye. I know that “a bunch” isn’t an

exact term, but it is hard to know the measurements for the many different dyes and

colors that you could be using.

The idea of adding all the color into a jar is so you get the right gradient to the ombre

rather than just eyeballing it.

When you have the dye mixed with the soap cubes in the small glass jar, then you will add

half of it to the first batch, half of what is left to the second batch, and half of what is left

(again) to the third batch. That will ensure that each layer has half the dye of the previous

layer.

Layer the ombre melt and pour soap as outlined in the triple layer soap instructions and

allow it to dry until firm but warm before removing it from the mold and cutting the loaf

into bars.

Just like with the soap layers, you can do this process as many times as you want to get

four, five, six, or more layers of soap.

SEA SPONGE SOAP Organic-looking handmade soap along with natural sea sponges makes for a gorgeous

soap that lathers up beautifully. Sea sponges are a natural, biodegradable alternative to

synthetic sponges and they are gentler on skin.

There are over 5,000 varieties of sea sponge, only a few of which are harvested for

commercial use. Sea sponge varieties range in size from less than one-inch to six-feet

long! The soft, squeezable objects that we recognize as sea sponges are actually the soft

inner part of the sea sponge. In nature, they are covered with a hard protective layer.

Sea sponges are harvested carefully, by hand, by “sponge fishermen” (and sponge

fisherwomen). These folks dive down to where the sponges are growing and carefully cut

them at least an inch from the base. This allows the sponge to regenerate after being

harvested, and in fact it will come back larger and healthier than before it was harvested.

There is no need for concerns about sustainability when it comes to the harvest of sea

sponges, as the process actually encourages healthy regrowth and increases population

density.

Sea sponges are not just useful to people, dolphins use them too! Dolphins have been

known to carry sea sponges in their beaks while looking for food along the ocean floor.

The sponges act as a combination filter/shield which protects the dolphin from sharp

rocks, urchins, and other objects that could hurt them.

M A T E R I A L S

Makes 10 soap bars

2 lbs triple butter melt and pour soap base

Oval silicone cupcake mold for 10



2 tsp lavender essential oil

Ratanjot powder (for color)

10 sea sponges

M A K E I T !

It's best to cut your sea sponges to size before you make your soap. Adding the sea

sponges has to be done very quickly as the soap sets quite fast once it hits the mold, so

you want to have them cut and ready to work with.


heatproof container and put that in the microwave.

Melt the soap base on medium-high in the microwave or double boiler.

Add lavender essential oil and scoop one-half cup of melted soap base to mix with the

ratanjot or soap color. Add the colored soap back into the soap base and make three big

swirls with a metal spoon, being careful not to over stir it.

Pour the soap into each cup leaving at least a quarter inch of headspace in each one, then

gently press your sea sponge into the soap so that it sinks in and attaches.

When the soap is ready to be unmolded it can be wrapped up and given away as gifts, or

leathered up as a luxurious treat for your own shower or bath.

ROSEM AR Y LEMON STAR S A ND B AR S ( SOAP-ON- A- ROPE)

Soap-on-a-rope is more than just a catchy rhyme. It's a decorative way to display soap that

also keeps it from getting soft or sitting in a little soap puddle in your shower or bath.

One of the best things about this project is that you get two kinds of soap at the end. First

you will cut out your soap stars and when that process is finished you add another soap to

fill in the holes and create decorative soap bars.

M A T E R I A L S

Makes 12 soap stars and 16-20 bars

3 lbs shea butter soap base

1 lb aloe carrot cucumber glycerin soap base

2 tablespoons rosemary leaves

Zest from one lemon

1.5 teaspoons rosemary essential oil

1.5 teaspoons lemon essential oil



Cookie sheet (9 x 13)

Star cookie cutter


Screw

Cotton twine

M A K E I T !

Cut up your shea butter soap base into one-inch cubes and add them to the heatproof

container. Melt the soap base on medium-high in the microwave or double boiler.

When your soap base is melted, add in two thirds of the herbs, lemon rind, and essential

oils. Reserve the other ingredients.

Pour the soap base into the cookie sheet and move the cookie sheet around quickly so

that it fills up the entire space. It should be approximately one-inch thick. Ensure that the

soap is level and leave it to set on a level surface. Spray the surface with isopropyl alcohol.

Note: work quickly as the soap will dry fast.

When the soap is dry—in only about a half hour—use the cookie cutter to cut out star

shapes.

Make the stars into the soap-on-a-rope by using a screw to create a hole and then tying a

piece of cotton twine through the hole. The soap-on-a-rope can now be given as a gift or

hung in the shower.

Now, make the bars!

Melt the glycerin soap base in the microwave or double boiler as you did with the

previous batch. Add the remaining essential oils and stir well. Spray the surface of the star

cut-out soap with alcohol. Pour the melted soap slowly and evenly over the star cut-out

soap in the cookie sheet. The glycerin soap will fill in the stars and add another layer of

thickness to the soap.

When the cookie sheet of soap has dried you can use a knife to gently lift the corner of the

soap and pull the sheet up. Place the soap on a cutting board and cut out rectangles or

squares of soap to create soap bars.

These can be used as is, or you can punch a hole in them and hang them from rope just as

you did with the stars.

I like the idea of wrapping them up and giving them as stocking stuffers or even tying

them to the outside of a present. No matter how you decide to give them, this is a fun

project to make any time of year.

HONEYCOMB SOAP It is easy to get the honeycomb look of this soap project without buying an expensive

mold. While the soap looks like a sticky block of honey straight from the beehive, it's

actually a nice aloe and carrot glycerin soap that I've mixed with manuka honey and

scented with citrus. The trick to this attractive honeycomb soap is adding a bit of bubble

wrap to the tops after pouring it in the molds!

M A T E R I A L S

Makes 12 round soap bars

2 lbs honey soap base

1 tsp Manuka honey (optional)

1/2 tsp sweet orange essential oil (optional)



Silicone soap / cupcake mold

Small-celled bubble wrap, cut into rounds or angular shapes

M A K E I T !

Small-celled bubble wrap gives the soap its honeycomb look. By simply pressing a cut

piece of bubble wrap onto the top of the soap, the organic shape begins to take form. Cut

the bubble wrap in rounds or geometric shapes that mostly fit into the molds, leaving a bit

of extra plastic as a tab so you can easily grab and pull the bubble wrap off when the soap

is dry. Do this step first, as adding the bubble wrap will need to be done quickly when the

soap is poured.

Cut up the honey soap base into one-inch cubes and add them to the heatproof container.

Melt the soap base in a microwave or in a double boiler so that it is just melted.

When the soap base is melted, add in the honey and essential oils to the soap mix. I like to

add a bit of Manuka honey to this soap for its antibacterial and healing properties and to

give it a delicate honey scent. The orange essential oil adds more sweet and bright scent

that makes this soap deliciously decadent.

Pour the soap into the silicone mold and gently press a piece of bubble wrap on the top. I

originally tried this project with the bubble wrap at the bottom of the mold with the soap

poured over top. It did not work at all! The bubble wrap just floated to the middle of the

soap and I couldn’t get it out. The next time I tried the bubble wrap was on top of the soap

and it worked perfectly. This is how I always make it now.

I like to use some geometric forms rather than rounds because it I think it looks like

broken-off pieces of honeycomb. I like the organic, imperfect final product that it

produces.

B OTA NI CAL SOAP These botanical soap bars are decorated with flowers, herbs, and leaves found in the garden. This is a fun project for encapsulating what grows in your own backyard to bring a little nature to your bath or shower. These gorgeous soaps make lovely gifts and it is surprisingly simple to make a large batch with little effort. It’s amazing what you can create with the beauty of nature and a few melt and pour soap supplies! There are soap blends that are created specifically to suspend anything you add in the base and disperse it evenly. Those bases are simple to use, but they do tend to have more chemicals added to aid in the suspension. I pour my soaps half full before adding the botanicals and this has good results.

M A T E R I A L S

Makes 12 oval soap bars

2 lb clear glycerin soap base



1 tsp essential oil (your choice of sent)


Botanicals


B o t a n i c a l s t o S u b m e r g e i n S o a p

There are a number of different botanicals from the garden that you can use in your soap projects. This list shows the results of some of them but I encourage you to try others as well to see what you can come up with.

Saffron

Saffron gives the soap a color and lightness with flecks of red floating throughout.

Chamomile

The soap magnifies the small flower heads and the stems float organically in the soap.

Calendula

The calendula soap looks airy with pale yellow petals floating in the soap and bursts of the flower heads.

Eucalyptus

The eucalyptus leaves hold their colors and shape beautifully but they tend to work better in suspension base soap.

Nasturtium

Use the whole flower or the petals to add the bright colors of nasturtiums to your soaps. As with the eucalyptus, the flower and petals will float, so these work best in suspension soap.

Give These a Pass

There were a few botanical soaps that I have tried that did not turn out very well. Notably, rosemary, sage leaf, and rose petal. The sage leaf and rosemary discolored the soap and not in a good way. The rose petals turned into brown blobs in the soap and look really ugly. Use the rose petals for topping the rose soap project instead!

M A K E I T !

Start with a crystal clear glycerin soap base so you can clearly see the botanicals when the soap is complete. Cut up the glycerin soap base into one-inch cubes and add them to the heatproof container. Melt the soap base in a microwave or in a double-boiler so that it is just melted. When your soap base is melted, add in the essential oils to the soap mix. I like floral mixes for these like lavender and rose as well as sweet scents like sweet orange. Pour half of the soap into the silicone mold and add your botanicals. Allow them to set for

a few minutes before spraying with isopropyl alcohol and then topping up the molds with

more melted soap base. You may need to gently poke the botanicals into place using a

toothpick.

Spray the surface of the soap with isopropyl alcohol to remove any bubbles. Use a metal

spoon to skim any bubbles/skin off the top of the soap before it dries that don’t go away

with the alcohol.

Unmold the soaps when they are completely dry and then they are ready to use.

WI LDLY FUN A NI MA L SO A PS This creative soap project is fun to give to children of all ages. I mean, who wouldn't like to

find a wild animal swimming around in their soap? I know that these soaps have put

smiles on the faces of enough kids, young and old, that it's worth getting started with this

project. Here are some tips for how to make some wild and crazy animal soap for all the

animal lovers in your life.

M A T E R I A L S

Makes 12 oval soap bars

2 lb crystal clear glycerin soap base



Liquid blue soap dye



Small plastic animals


M A K E I T !

Gather up plastic animals that are small enough to fit into a silicone soap/cupcake mold. I

found that standard plastic counting animals fit perfectly in an oval soap mold. A few of

the critters had protruding parts that I snipped off with scissors to be sure that they fit.

Add the plastic animals into the soap molds, facing them down so that they will look out

the top of the soap when it is ready.

There are a few different clear soap bases that are available. The crystal clear base will

show the animals the best but it has chemical additions. There is a natural chemical-free

clear soap base available, however it is somewhat cloudy. Crystal clear soap base was

used for this project. See the resources page for more information.

Cut up the clear soap base into one-inch cubes and add them to the heatproof container

and into the microwave or double boiler.

When your soap base is melted, add in the essential oils to the soap mix. Add a tiny bit of

blue color to the base, just a hint, as a little will go a long way and you still want to see the

animals clearly.

Pour the soap into the silicone mold. If the animal starts to float to the top, then stop

pouring the soap when the molds are half full and allow it to set before topping it up. I

found that these plastic animals had enough weight to them that they didn’t float and I

could submerge them in one step.

Spray the surface of the soap with isopropyl alcohol to remove any bubbles. Use a metal

spoon to skim any bubbles/skin off the top of the soap before it dries that don’t go away

with the alcohol.

Unmold the soaps when they are completely dry and then they are ready to use. Wait

until you see the smiles they put on everyone’s faces!

RUB - A- DUB DUCK I E SOA P Adorable rubber ducks swimming in soap makes for a soap bar that will get the little ones

rub-a-dub-dubbing with glee! This project is similar to the submerged wild animals, except

that the duck is only partially submerged and there are some opaque soap waves as well!

M A T E R I A L S

Makes 10 duckie soap bars

2 lbs natural clear glycerin soap base

1/2 cup of opaque soap shavings



Liquid blue soap dye



10 x 2” rubber ducks


M A K E I T !

Look for rubber ducks that are small enough to fit into a silicone soap/cupcake mold and

buy as many as you need to fill the cupcake mold.

There are a few different clear soap bases that are available. A natural clear soap base was

used for this project. Please see the resources page for more information.

To create the foam for the top of the soap bars, use a vegetable peeler to peel off some

opaque soap curls. Chop the curls so they are no longer than two inches. Prepare one half

of a cup of these and set them aside.

Cut up the glycerin soap base into one-inch cubes and add them to the heatproof

container and into the microwave or double boiler.

When your soap base is properly melted, add in the essential oils to the soap mix. Add a

tiny bit of blue color to the base until you get the shade that you like. A little goes a long

way.

Pour the soap into the silicone mold, filling each mold three-quarters full. Press a duck

into each bar of soap and immediately give them a quick spray with isopropyl alcohol and

sprinkle some of the white soap curls onto the top of the soap around the ducks before

the tops set. This can happen fast so you may want to fill each cup and add the curls one

at a time.

EMB OSSED CALENDULA SOAP Embossing can be done with any soap project that you make, but it shows up the best on

opaque soap bars. Embossing is done though pouring soap into a mold that is fitted with a

rubber stamp.

This is a lovely natural-looking soap with flecks of organic, yellow, calendula petals and a

sweet floral scent. Embossing the soap makes it a wonderful gift idea.

M A T E R I A L S

Makes 5 soap bars

1/2 lb oatmeal shea melt and pour soap base

Square soap mold

Rubber embossing stamps



20 drops sweet orange essential oil

20 drops lavender essential oil

Calendula petals


M A K E I T !

Place the rubber embossing stamps facing up in the square soap mold. The rubber should

not slip inside the mold if you pour the soap carefully over top of them.


heatproof container and put that in the microwave or double boiler.

Melt the soap base on medium-high in the microwave or double boiler.

Add essential oils and flower petals and stir well.

Pour the soap into each cup over the embossing stamps. Spray the surface with isopropyl

alcohol.

Remove the soap from the mold when it has hardened, and use a thin tool like a toothpick

to gently help guide the embossing stamp out.

SOAP- CUTTI NG GUI DE B OX A soap-cutting guide box will ensure that your homemade soap projects are uniform sizes.

You can certainly purchase a pre-made one, but if you are handy, it’s a simple project you

can make at home.

I don't mind rustic-looking soaps that are cut by hand, but that tends to suit cold-process

soap more. Melt and pour soap projects are so clean and precise that only straight, even

cuts will do them justice.

This box is fairly simple to make at home whether or not you have power tools. A table

saw helps for cutting the wood to size, but if you won't have access to one, you can ask to

get it done at a local hardware store.

M A T E R I A L S

2½’ x 1x4 pine board

8 x #6 1¼” long wood screws

Screwdriver or electric drill

Hand saw and miter box or electric saw (e.g. miter saw, skill saw, table saw)

M A K E I T ! Cut the wood into the following dimensions:

Base: 1 x 10” x 3½ ” – Cut 10” off the 1x4 pine board

Front face: 1 x 5” x 3½” – Cut 5” off the 1x4 pine board.

Sides: 2 x 5½” x 3½” – Cut 5½” off the 1x4 pine board; and then do it again.

M a k e a K n i f e G r o o v e :

To make the knife groove, use a hand saw and a miter box or an electric saw to cut almost

all the way through the two side pieces, stopping ½” from the bottom on each of the

sides. Position the cut 1” back from the front edge. Cut through the wood multiple times,

slightly moving to the left and right of the original cut, to create a groove thick enough so

that your knife can fit through.

You may adjust the slot forward (< 1”) if you want thinner soap bars or backwards (>1”) if

you want thicker soap bars.

Test that the groove is thick enough for your knife to pass through. If it is not thick

enough, then use the saw again to increase the thickness of the groove. Note: Don’t make

the groove too wide or else your knife blade will float around too much and it will be

harder to get straight, clean cuts.

Lay out the pieces and screw them together. Screw both sides on first to the base so that

the one edge of each side is flush with the edge of the base. Ensure the groove is situated

closest to the edge. Screw the front face into the sides.

Cut soap!

AB OUT THE A UTHOR Stephanie Rose is an award-winning

author and the creator of Garden

Therapy (https://gardentherapy.ca).

Garden Therapy started as a personal

blog and has bloomed into a

community of craft and garden

projects for people looking to add

some creativity to their lives.

Originally, Stephanie started writing

as a way to log her garden therapy

journey while recovering from a

sudden and debilitating illness. She

soon connected with others who also

used gardening and craft projects as

therapy and shifted the blog to focus

on sharing clear and helpful do-it-

yourself instructions for over 800

healthy living, gardening, and craft

projects.

Stephanie started making her own

natural beauty products and soap in

2008 to use what was growing in the garden for personal beauty and wellness. After

testing countless recipes, she has found what works best for her family and now makes all

of her own soaps, lotions, scrubs, lip balms and healing salves. Many of the natural

skincare recipes she uses can be found in the Natural Beauty Recipe Book which was

released in January 2016. Stephanie is an avid soap-maker and makes both cold-process

soap and melt and pour recipes.

Stephanie lives in Vancouver, BC, where she works full-time as a writer, photographer,

crafter, and artist. She can be found in her garden studio testing new soap recipes and

creating beautiful things with natural elements. As a Master Gardener, she volunteers

with a school-to-farm program that teaches inner-city children how to grow and cook

their own food.

At the end of the day, Stephanie enjoys every moment she can with her family. She lives

with her husband, son, and tiny dog, who provide her with inspiration and delight both in

and out of the garden.




https://gardentherapy.ca/about-2/

https://gardentherapy.ca/about-2/

https://gardentherapy.ca/books/natural-beauty-ebook/

OTHER B OOK S B Y STEPHA NI E R OSE See all of the books at: https://gardentherapy.ca/books/

Garden Made: A Year of Seasonal Projects to Beautify Your Garden & Your Life

The Garden Therapy Coloring Book Printable PDF

Get Growing! Expert Seed Starting for the DIY Gardener


The Natural Beauty Recipe Book: 45 Easy-to-Make Skincare Recipes for the Whole Family

Sugar and Spice: 40+ Handmade Gifts from the Kitchen

https://gardentherapy.ca/books/

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