Build a great-sounding glockenspiel out of copper pipes! The pipes, whencorrectly mounted, have a lovely bell-like tone. This glockenspiel (aglockenspiel is like a xylophone, but with metal slats or tubes) is based on aproject in this book (http://www.amazon.com/Woodshop-Kids-Jack-

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Posted:Jan 27, 2012

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McKee/dp/1884894534), but with a larger range and tuning information basedon theory from this excellent article (http://staff.tamhigh.org/lapp/xylophone.pdf).

This is potentially a very educational project. Several learning objectives arepossible, depending on the subject area of interest:

Mathematics: Solve simple equations to match pipe length to notes.Physics: Learn about the relationship between length and first-modevibrational frequency.Music theory: Learn about the relationship between frequencies and notes.Shop: Learn how to measure and cut wood, join it with nails or glue, andwork with metal pipe.

I built this project with my six-year-old son. The exact amounts of material youneed depend on what musical coverage you want the instrument to have. Afterconsultation with my nine-year-old daughter as to what music she wanted toplay on it, I opted for nine notes, covering a C-major octave, plus an extra D atthe top, namely from C6 to D7. The lower the notes, the longer the copper pipeswill need to be, and hence the more copper pipe you will need. On the otherhand, the higher the notes, the more precisely the cuts will need to be made.

The basic idea with this glockenspiel is that there is a wooden frame with tworows of nails sticking out of it, and rubber bands joining neighboring nails in eachrow. The rubber bands hold the pipes in place while giving them a lot offreedom to vibrate. The hard work is making sure the pipes are the right lengthand held by the rubber bands in the right place.

The amounts of material below, and measurements mentioned later, assumeour nine-note range from C6 to D7.

About eight feet of type M 1/2" nominal copper pipe. Despite being called1/2", this has an outside diameter of 5/8", and a thickness of about 0.03". You need the total length of your pipes (see Step 2 for pipe lengthcalculations) plus about an inch per pipe to compensate for mistakes and toallow tuning. This is the expensive part of the project. (Our Lowes sells 10'for $12.) Note: If you combine pipe from two sources (as we did--we usedsome old pipe that was lying around and some pipe we bought), you willhave to make separate calculations and measurements for the two pipes, incase the dimensions are not exactly the same--the tuning is very sensitive tothe dimensions.About four feet of approximately 3/4" x 2" wood. The 3/4" is best left as is,but the 2" can be varied from about 1" to 3" with no harm. Any kind of woodwill work.20 to 28 nails, approximately 1.5" long and 1/16" in thickness (20 nails if thewood is joined with glue, 28 if the wood is joined with nails, in between if bothare used)15" of some sort of tubing that can loosely fit over the bottoms of the nails tokeep the rubber bands for sliding down; we used heat-shrink tubing (butdidn't shrink it); in a pinch, you can cut up drinking straws; or you can go toLowes or Home Depot and pick up two feet of some cheap plastic tubingDrill and drill bit for pilot holes for the nails; a drill press can make life a biteasier20 rubber bands, approximately 6" circumferencewood for one or two hammers; we used about 8" of 5/16" dowel for thehandle and about 1.5" of 7/8" dowel for the heada phone, tablet or computer with an app that calculates the peak frequencyof sound coming in through a microphone; we used an Android mini-tabletand found that the free Fourier (https://market.android.com/details?id=com.shinymetal.Fourier) application was best, though some of the finetuning was double checked with gStrings; you may find that some specificmusic tuning applications don't work very well for this, because your initialtuning will be quite far from an official notea calculator or a calculator apppipe cutters (we were cheap and used our hacksaw--that was a ton of work,and messy)flat file or other sanding/trimming tool (belt sander, disc sander, benchgrinder, Dremel, etc.)Optional: wood glue (I used Titebond II)Optional: paint

The next step will describe the basic theory and mathematics behind the project. As Plato insisted, music is very mathematical, but the mathematics is not veryhard.

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Here is my nine-year-old untrained daughter playing a scale and a piece.

Step 1: Some theory

We want the pipes to vibrate in the first mode. The picture shows how thathappens: there are two nodes, 22.4% of the way in from each end, that stay put,and the pipes vibrate around them, the ends going up when the middle goesdown, and vice versa. The pipes will sound the best when they are flexiblysupported around the nodes. In the glockenspiel, the pipes will be supported byrubber bands at the nodes. If you want to try how a pipe sounds, you need tosupport it at the nodes and hit it in the middle.

Once you buy your pipe, the only thing you can really control is the length of thepipes. The longer the pipe, the lower the main frequency. The formula is:

f=A/L

where f is the frequency, L is the length and A is a number that could in principlebe calculated from the thickness of the pipe walls, the diameter of the pipes andthe speed of sound in the material. In theory, you could measure the diameterof the pipes and the thickness of the pipe walls, and then preciselycalculate A and figure out how long your pipes should be for the desiredfrequencies. The problem with that is that it is very hard to measure thethickness of the pipe walls and diameter of the pipes with sufficient precision. And you can't just use my data, because every pipe will be a bit different. Instead, we will cut a test pipe section, measure its length, use a mobile phoneapp to measure the frequency, and then use that to calculate A.

Once we've calculated A, we can choose the frequencies we want for the notesand solve the equation f=A/L to calculate the length of the pipe. The solution,

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of course, will be that L is the square root of A/f.

My value of A was approximately 67,600,000 mm /s. You can use this to get anapproximate idea of how long your pipes should be, if you're using type M 1/2"nominal copper pipe like I was, for planning. You can look up the frequenciesfor different notes here (http://www.phy.mtu.edu/~suits/notefreqs.html). Forinstance, C6 is 1046.5 Hz, so the length L will be approximately the square rootof 67,600,000/1046.5, or 254mm. If that's your lowest note, like it was for me,this will be the length of your longest pipe.

Step 2: Choosing frequencies

Choose the notes you want to use in your glockenspiel and copy theirfrequencies from this table. I used C6, D6, E6, F6, G6, A6, B6, C7, D7, whichwas a C-major scale octave, plus an extra high D. Significantly lowerfrequencies would make for very long pipes, which I don't recommend.

Step 3: Cutting a test pipe

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Now cut a pipe, approximately an inch (2-3 cm) longer than you want yourlongest pipe to be. If you're using Type M 1/2" nominal pipe with C6 as yourlowest note, this will be about 270mm. You will use this pipe to measure thequantity A and figure out the lengths of all the actual pipes.

Do yourself a favor and get yourself pipe cutters if you don't have them. They'renot expensive. We used a hacksaw and it was a horrible pain. If you need touse a hacksaw, tape a strip of paper around the pipe to make sure the cuts aresquare. Then make shallow cuts all around, flush with the pipe, and thendeepen the cuts until you cut through. Pipe cutters should have a cleaner cutmuch faster.

Copper is toxic. Use breathing and eye protection.

Step 4: Calculating the constant A and the lengths

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Measure the length L of the test pipe as carefully as you can. If all you have is arule calibrated in millimeters, still do your best to estimate to about half amillimeter precision by eye.

After the cut, let the pipe cool off to room temperature. Otherwise its frequencywill be off a little.

Now measure the frequency of the pipe. This is a step you will do many times inthis project. You need to suspend the pipe on rubber bands or something elsesoft about 1/4 of the way (22.4%) in from each end, where the nodes will be, andotherwise let the pipe vibrate freely. In my experience, getting the suspensionpoints exactly right won't affect the frequency that much. Start an application onyour mobile device that will measure the peak frequency of the sound, andsuspend the pipe close to the device.

If you're using Android and the Fourier (http://market.android.com/details?id=com.shinymetal.Fourier) app, make sure you put the device in portrait mode,and then you press the activation button in Fourier. Fourier is a bit buggy--Irecommend rebooting your device once you're done with all the measurementslest it slow down your device, and it doesn't seem to work well in landscape. Butit seems to work better than any other free app I could find in the Android Marketfor this purpose--it measures the peak frequency really well. There no doubt aregood iPhone apps for this, and maybe a desktop app, too, but Fourier is what Iused. Some applications for tuning guitars didn't seem to work that well with thesound produced by the glockenspiel, for instance.

Hit the suspended pipe in the middle with something wooden, like a piece ofdowel or a pencil. To do that, you will either need to have one person hold thepipe in two rubber bands and another hit it, or find a way to put the pipe down onsome rubbery supports, or find some other way. What I did most of the timewas to stretch rubber bands between thumb and forefinger on each hand, attachthe pipe to each rubber band about 22% of the way in from each end, and havemy son tap it, making sure the pipe wasn't making any contact with my hands.

It should give a lovely bell-like tone. If it doesn't, probably you've got itsuspended too rigidly or by the wrong place. Write the frequency shown on the

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mobile device. Sometimes several frequencies will be shown, but typically onlyone or two will be at all in the ballpark you'd expect based on the fact that thenote should be lower than the lowest note for your glockenspiel. Just choosethe one that looks reasonable and is shown for the longest amount of time. Tapthe pipe a couple of times to repeat the experiment and take the average of thevalues shown (in my experience they will often be exactly the same).

You now have is your frequency f and your length L. Since f=A/L , you (or yourstudent(s) if old enough) can solve for A and find A=fL . Just make sure to usethe same units of length throughout the project. I recommend millimeters. Forinstance, if your length were 223mm, and you measured a frequency of 1359Hz,you would have A=(1359)(223 ) = 67,581,711. The student(s) can figure out theunits if old enough. A Hertz is in units of 1/s, so if your lengths are inmillimeters, A will be in mm /s.

Now that you have a value for A, go back to your table of frequencies from Step2, and calculate a length for each frequency using the fact that L is the squareroot of A/f. For instance, for C6, whose frequency should be 1046.50 Hz, if A is67,581,711 mm /s, your length in millimeters will be the square root of67581711/1046.50, i.e., 254.1mm. You should record your lengths up to a tenthof millimeter, even though you can't cut to that precision.

For educational purposes, you may want to first suspend the tube in differentways, say by the ends, or just lie it flat on a surface, and listen to the sound. Itwill sound much less resonant--it will probably be quite ugly, instead of theelegant bell-like sound when the tube is suspended by the nodes. This is ateachable moment.

Step 5: Cutting a pipe for the glockenspiel

You now have approximate lengths for all the pipes. If you just want to make afun toy to bang, you can just cut all the pipes to these lengths, sand lightly, andbe done with it.

Unfortunately, especially with the higher notes, the frequency depends veryfinely on the length (it does go with the square of the length), and so to getdecent precision, you will need to tune your cuts.

I worked on the tubes one-by-one, starting with the longest (which I made from

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the test pipe from the preceding step). This way, I knew that if I cut somethingtoo short, I could just cut it down for the next highest note (i.e., the next shortestpipe).

I marked each pipe where to cut, and my son and I cut each pipe, typicallyabout half a millimeter to a millimeter too long.

Step 6: Tuning the pipe

After cutting the pipe, use a pencil to mark the nodes, 22.4% in from each end(this need not be very precise--if you get it within a millimeter or two, that's fine). Then measure the frequency, exactly like you did for the test pipe, againallowing the pipe to cool after the cut. Since you cut too long, the frequencyshould be a bit too low. (If not, measure your cut pipe. If the measurement ofthe pipe is bigger than per calculation, you mis-measured something with thetest pipe. Re-do your calculation of A with your new pipe, and recalculate yourpipe lengths.)

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Make sure you set yourself a tolerance. Since none of us in the family are verygifted musically, 0.5% or about 5 Hz was satisfactory for our purposes. Youmight want to set yourself a more exactly tolerance like 2 Hz. Also, if you canget all the pipes with errors on the same side, the errors should be less audible.

If after the cut you're within tolerance of the correct frequency, you're done aftera very light sanding to remove jagged edges (very light, because you don't wantto de-tune), and just repeat with other pipes. If your frequency is too high, andnot within tolerance, you've cut things too short. Just re-cut this pipe for yournext note (so, if you're making the C6 note, just re-use this pipe for D6, cutting ita bit shorter), and cut a new one for the present note. (Of course, if this isyour highest note, you've just wasted some copper pipe--maybe you can use itfor another project.)

If the frequency is too low, you need to trim the pipe a bit. I found a rotary toolwith a sanding drum attachment to be the best way to do it. You could also usea sanding block if you're patient, or a bench grinder if you're not. Wear safetygoggles and breathing protection.

What you do is trim a tiny bit, check the frequency, if it's still too low and notwithin tolerance, keep on trimming. But make sure to cool the pipe off beforemeasurements. If you over-trim beyond the tolerance, cut a new pipe, and usethis for the next note.

I recommend writing in pencil on each pipe what its note is.

Step 7: Laying out the frame

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You will want the pipes about an inch apart, laid out on a trapezoidal frame.

If you're using nine pipes like I was and the C6-D7 notes, you can cut two420mm (16.5") lengths of your 3/4" x 2" board (neither the 3/4" nor the 2" is verycritical).

Draw a pencil line down the middle of one narrow side of each board.

Put 19 evenly tick marks along the centerline of each board, spaced aroundevery 20mm (I think I actually have more like 21mm), starting an equal distancefrom each end (and not too close so that a nail there won't split the board), withthe odd numbered tick marks being differently marked from the even numberedones. The odd-numbered tick marks will be approximately where the nails goand the even numbered tick marks will be where the pipes will lie.

Now, lay the pipes out on top of the frame boards, on the even-numbered tickmarks (they will roll--do the best you can). Adjust the angles and spacing of theframe so the node markings on the pipes lie as close to the center line as youcan. You will have to make compromises here because of the non-linearity inthe pipe length sequence, but if your dimensions are like mine, you should beable to do a decent compromise.

Now measure and record the inner distances between the two ends of the frameso you can lay the frame out in the same configuration later. Measure how longthe cross-pieces that go under the frame and hold the two boards in placeshould be. In our case, they were 160mm and 116mm.

Cut the cross-pieces.

Sand if needed. I used a friend's miter saw and it did such clean cuts thatsanding wasn't needed. If you use a hand saw, you may want to sand. Don'twant splinters.

Step 8: Attaching cross pieces

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You now have two long pieces of wood, two short cross-pieces, andmeasurements of how far apart the two ends of the long pieces should be.

Turn the long pieces upside-down, with the tick marks down, and space themaccording to the measurements. You now need to attach the cross-pieces,while keeping the long pieces the right distance apart. What I did was to use acombination of nails and wood glue, two nails per cross-piece. I drilled pilotholes for the nails (I tried without that, and got splitting), put glue on where thejint would be, and nailed the first cross-piece in place. Then before the glue set(don't use a fast-setting glue like Super Glue!), I adjusted the angle of the framefor symmetry and for the correct spacing at the other end. Then I glued andnailed the other side.

Then clamp and wait for drying.

Step 9: Laying out where the nails go

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Once the glue is set (if you use nails and glue and Titebond II, you can probablystart on this in an hour or so), set up the frame right-side up, with the tickmarkson top and the cross-pieces on the bottom. Now arrange the pipes on theboards again in their places.

Now you need to figure out how to place the nails that will be joined with rubberbands. If all the nodes were right on the center line, you could just put all thenails on the center line, on their tick marks. However, because some of thenodes will be off the center line, you will need to shift the nails in such a way thata rubber band across two neighboring lines will cross the pipe as close as youcan make it to the node line on the pipe.

You can eye-ball it. In my experience if the rubber band is a few millimetersaway from the node, you'll be fine. Mark locations for the nails, offset to one orthe other side of the center line near the odd-numbered tick marks. Make surethe locations aren't too close to either edge or the wood will split.

Now, make an indentation at each mark to help you drill. I used a center punch,but you can also just press down with a small Phillips screwdriver.

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Step 10: Stops for rubber bands

The nails will have rubber bands on them. But we don't want the rubber bandsto slide down the nails. So we will put some stops on the nails. Basically, youwant some sort of tubing that can go over the nails, fairly loosely, so that therubber bands can rest on top of it. We used some heat shrink tubing I happenedto have that was the right thickness (I didn't shrink it), but in a pinch you can cutup drinking straws.

Cut twenty 14mm lengths of the tubing.

To figure out how long the tubing I needed as well as how far the nails shouldstick out (next step), we experimented with a mockup of the attachment of onepipe on a piece of scrap to see how it would all work.

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Step 11: Attach the nails

Drill pilot holes (while wearing safety goggles), with a drill bit smaller than yournail, for the nails in the indentations you made in the earlier step.

Then put the pieces of tubing onto the nails, and hammer the nails into theirholes, trying to keep them straight, and make sure they stick out close to 25mm. To do that, we used a small piece of cardboard cut to size as a template tocheck that the nails were far enough in. Then straighten the nails.

I used ribbed nails, about 2mm thick and about 40mm (1.5") long. This allowedthe nails to get anchored well.

Step 12: Paint

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We painted the long boards with red latex house paint. The cross boards wepainted with black acrylic craft paint mixed 1:1:1 with water and Titebond II tomake it a bit less matte. It's all up to you. You don't even have to paint at all.

We were careful when painting to clean paint off the nice black tubing on thenails. Paint the top side first, as then you can nicely lay the whole thing down onthe nails to dry while you paint the bottom side.

Step 13: Attach rubber bands and pipes

Now, string rubber bands between neighboring nails, sitting above the stopsmade of tubing on the nails. With the size of bands we used, we first doubled upeach rubber band or it would have been too loose, and then attached it. Thenwe just inserted the pipe into the rubber band, shifting it so that the node markon the tube is as close as possible to the rubber band.

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Step 14: Hammer

You can now make one or two hammers. You could just cut pieces of 1/2"dowel and use those.

We went slightly fancier. We cut an 8" length of 5/16" dowel and approximatelya 1.25" length of 7/8" dowel. We drilled a 5/16" hole in one face of the 7/8"dowel length and glued the 5/16" dowel into it. (As always, use safety goggles.)

For two-handed play, you might want to make two.

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And now you're done!

Music education could be the next step...

mrmom512 (/member/mrmom512/)

http://home.fuse.net/engineering/Chimes.htm(http://home.fuse.net/engineering/Chimes.htm)

i love the internet.

Sameralovescats00 (/member/Sameralovescats00/)

HELP! About the equation to find thepipe measurement I need a certainfrequency, but it is so unclear on howto find 'A', I really need help on how tofind this! Do I multiply or dividesomething? PLEASE HELP.

arpruss (/member/arpruss/) (author) Sameralovescats00

Step 4 gives details of how tocalculate A from a frequencymeasurement for a test pipe.

Sameralovescats00 (/member/Sameralovescats00/)

@arpruss

cjs1298 (/member/cjs1298/)

I think you could add on to this with accidental bars. (Black on Piano). Thenyou can play a much larger spectrum of music.

bounty1012 (/member/bounty1012/)

I've made a spreadsheet that should calculate your lengths automatically onceyou plug in your "A" variable, you can get it here:https://www.dropbox.com/s/ib6iq7fnonpqdeg/glockenspiel%20worksheet.xlsx

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Yes, that would make the tubing on which the rubber bands rest unnecessary.Good idea.

gcmiller (/member/gcmiller/)

Nice instructable! For simplifying nails, consider double headed nails.

SonOfFurzehatt (/member/SonOfFurzehatt/)

Actually, copper metal is harmless(sharp edges aside). It's coppercompounds that are toxic, and you haveto be pretty careless to ingest enough toharm yourself. Washing the swarf offyour hands afterwards is a good idea,as with any metal.

newbiepapercrafter (/member/newbiepapercrafter/)

Wonderful! More proof that you canmake music with ANYTHING!

dchall8 (/member/dchall8/)

This works with steel pipe conduit, too. Only problem with that is that it iswelded and the sound is slightly dulled. But if you want to prove the conceptand the math, steel is much less expensive.

arpruss (/member/arpruss/) (author) dchall8

You could also get non-weldedsteel pipe or tube. I checked ononlinemetals.com, though, andtheir mild steel tubes seemedslightly more expensive thanLowes' copper pipes which are$1.18 per foot.

arpruss (/member/arpruss/) (author)

Does anybody know a good iPhone app to use for checking the peakfrequency? Or good desktop apps?

mikeasaurus (/member/mikeasaurus/)

Fantastic project! Glockenspiel gefaellt mir!

arpruss (/member/arpruss/) (author)

Thanks! I really like the color scheme the kids and I came up with.

For Christmas, one of the gifts for our six-year-old was the ingredients forseveral woodworking projects, and this was one of them. We've got a couplemore projects to go!

stumitch (/member/stumitch/)

(/member/stumitch/)

2 years ago Reply (CQI9Q0JGXUZIQUJ)

flag

(/member/wilgubeast/)

2 years ago Reply (CLECG40GXX2XH9I)

flag

NICE!!! now I have a new project to try with my metal/wood classes. very welldone!

wilgubeast (/member/wilgubeast/)

This looks absolutely fantastic. I particularly like how you made the connectionwith more than one subject's learning objective. More glockenspiel.

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