Content

March 2019

FRAGRANCES OF THE WORLD

ORMAIE PARIS SERGE LUTENSKABEAH PARISPARFUMS DE MARLY

THE PERFUMIST

CINQUIEME SENS

FRAGRANCE TRENDS

FRAGRANCES OF THE WORLDSource: Fragrances of the World.info as of 19th March 2019 These figures include fragrances waiting to be released for 2018

Which distributors and brands will survive in this war? Consumers can’t follow anymore and don’t understand whatartisan really is, what makes the difference. There is a banalization of many selective offerings together with theirincessant flankers and limited editions, along with a continuing avalanche of unknown niche brands. Confusionreigns. Will the bubble explode? Might it lead consumers, other than the dedicated perfumistas, to turn off?

Every year Michael Edwards andhis team from The Fragrances ofthe World give us the big pictureof the fragrance launches. Somecategories decline slowly andothers come up strongly. Theartisan category may get a namechange as the number of launchesexceeds prestige… The lesson tobe learned is that the market isbeing turned upside down. Artisanis becoming the new prestige.

Nathalie Pichard toPNotes

March 2019

■ EAUX DE POLITESSE BY SERGE LUTENS

■ ORMAIE PARIS

A new olfactory chapter comes up in Serge Lutens’ portfolio this spring.The master of eclipse had carte blanche to surprise once more. AfterL’Eau in 2010 and other collections (Gratte-Ciel, Section d’Or), back tothe sources of refinement.A new ritual of fragrancing is revealed for oneself or for others: Eaux dePolitesse. What does Politesse (Politeness) mean? A savoir vivre, theelegance of wearing a radiant perfume with discretion, with simplicity.The opposite to bling, agressivity and darkness.

« Come into the light or disappearing to the shadow? There is a time for everything » says Serge Lutens.

Art, luxury, natural, art déco, France, crafts

Ormaie Paris is a new Maison de Parfums founded by the mother and son, duo Baptiste Bouygues andMarie-Lise Jonak. Passionate about perfumes and arts since his young age, Baptiste imagined a Parisianbrand founded on 100% natural ingredients and luxury. The brand takes inspiration in art, design andmemories. Bottles and wooden caps have been designed in France and are handmade. Each perfume has aspecial bottle, in a 30’s art deco style. The label is customized according the name of the fragrance. Specialmention to Marie-Lise Jonak for her creations.

The names of the 7 fragrances describe personal memories andtell stories: Yvonne, Le Passant, Toï Toï Toï, Les Brumes, l’YvréeBleue, Papier Carbone, 28°100% natural fragrances means vibrant, wild, authentic, realistic,true, special, longlasting fragrances that don’t lie. They are real.Fragrances are available at € 190, at Galeries Lafayette Champs-Elysées, Madison Avenue and Barney NY and on the websitehttps://ormaie.paris

Serge Lutens often ties past to future, following his quest of transparencybegun in 2010 with L’Eau. Pure or unclear, water, as light, comes up fromshadow and slips away…The collection is made up of 6 fresh and elegant fragrances: one is new,L’Eau d’Armoise, 2 are retained (L’Eau de Paille and L’Eau Froide) and 3are resfreshed (Gris Clair, Santal Blanc and Fleurs de Citronnier). Theentire collection plays between freshness and dryness, light and darkness.The bottle is transparent, like a new water-polished bottle in Art Decostyle (the cap), contrasting squared and round.

The second flagship in Paris, St Honoré

■ SECRETS DE KHEDIJA BY KABEAH PARIS

Rose, Jasmine, Geranium, Honeysuckle: 4 iconic flowers from Tunisia,stars of Kabeah Paris’s first collection ‘Secrets de Khedija’. The brandwas founded by Khedija Ben Ayed who was inspired by her love forflowers, her souvenirs, her holidays in the family garden in Tunis whenshe was younger. Perfumer Stéphanie Bakouche, captured thoseemotions and created with nicest raw materials, Belle Epine, LilyChérie, Secret de K and Nuit de Jasmin. Khedija will explore otherflowers of the world with modernity, freshness, radiance and quality.The fragrances are made in Grasse.Launched first in USA (7 points of sale) and ww.kabeahparis.com, thebrand will extend and develop new scented rituals. Prices: €40/80(30/100ml EDT).

A first pop-up store was held in Paris, Place Furstenberg, where influencers and friends were very happy to celebratespring and this new lovely modern brand.

Young, fresh, modern, real.

Nathalie Pichard toPNotes

March 2019

■ PERFUMIST, THE FRAGRANT APP

Approximately 2,000 new fragrances were released in 2018 which is aboutten times more than 20 years ago. Perfumist’s internal research showedthat 50% of consumers were not happy with the fragrance they purchased,or that they were being offered. Some even got used to the fact that theywould have to buy three to four fragrances before they found one theyliked.

Using artificial intelligence, Perfumist was designed to help users find theright fragrance within two minutes, based on notes and ingredients. Notethat people from India, China and even Africa are becoming very importantcommunities using Perfumist.

AI. App. Perfumes. Adviser. One motto “Bringing more perfumes to people, more people toperfumes”The idea of Perfumist, the application developed by Frenchman Frederick Besson, is to offera new way of discovering, choosing and buying a perfume in a store, assisted or not. Quite arevolution. Free, rich in olfactory content, this app can help both consumers andprofessionals in the huge world of fragrances. Anywhere, anytime, on a mobile or website.The app now has a database of 30,000 perfumes from 1,500 brands – and it works in 30languages (50 by the end of the year).

For beauty advisers, this app is aimed to help them, empower them and educate them to give better advice to theirclients, on the 4 continents covered. « Duty free retailers and airports are clearly interested by Perfumist as it alsohelps customers to be autonomous and independent in-store and bring in extra sales »Shopper: “Perfumist, show me all fragrances in this shop with jasmine or oud.” The app will answer. Whether a storehas ten fragrances or 5,000, we can help a customer make a selection. We geo-position users so they can find theright perfume inside the store in minutes.And what next? An e-commerce platform is not planned. The app is not aimed to sell to its community. It’s a matterof credibility and independence. This way they are not favoring one fragrance over another based on pricing criteria.They help online selling platforms offer better advice to their shoppers based on notes and ingredients. Perfumistforecast to get 20 Millions of users by 2020.

The first ever coworking space dedicated to perfume, and fragrance creation Work, Smell & Formulate

In 2018, the company has extended its activities by creating a new luminous space of coworking (80m²) aimed atpeople (BtB or BtC) who want to go further in the world of fragrances: they get easy access to raw materials,perfume databases, laboratories and weighing stations by passing a test, with a very flexible package offer – on ahourly, weekly, monthly basis. A simple way to work and be supported with professional tools. The concept shouldmeet the high expectations from pros who need more professional olfactory support.More info: www.cinquiemesens.com

■ COWORKING LAB AT CINQUIEME SENS

In 1976, Cinquième Sens was a pioneer fragrancecomposition house created by one of the first Frenchindependent perfumers, Monique Schlienger.And it became the first professional training organizationsas well, specialized in perfumery. Who has not beentrained by Cinquième Sens at some time?

Nathalie Pichard toPNotes

March 2019

■ COLORS, EXOTICISM, VINTAGE: what’s up?

Color and collection mania: be accessible,affordable, qualitative and more fun. Avoid anychance of boredom and stand out!

Innovative fragrant formulas: think of perfumedifferently, alcohol free (molecular perfumeswith Hermetica) or solid/oils or powders.

Modern Vintage: offer a large line with differentconcentrations, layering benefits to get yourcustomized signature scent (Gucci AlchemistGarden).

Here is a selection of new launches to highlight trends followed by the brands. A key trend is an ‘open bar ofconcepts’: brands mix all expectations consumers may want or desire in different ways, even far away from theirDNA.

■ PARFUMS DE MARLY

Cassili tells the story of Louis XV’s lover, Jeanne (Madame) de Pompadour, who was more than hisfavorite. She was a patroness of the arts, especially the ceramics of Sevres, loved the art ofgardening and scents such as orange blossom. Cassili is about flowers, pastel colors. An irresistibleand delicious blend of velvety fruits and pastel flowers, with a sprinkle of vanilla and wood. Joyful,sophisticated and distinguished. The brand is available in Printemps Paris, independentperfumeries, department stores worldwide… More info: https://pmarly.com/fr/

Parfums de Marly, founded by Julien Sprecher, passionate aboutperfumes and horses, was inspired by the lifestyle and the Castle ofMarly, in 18th century France. This castle was Louis XV’s court and itwas all about horses racing, perfumes and seduction. This is theinspiration for the Parfums de Marly universe, dedicated to this era of‘perfumed court’.The Parisian boutique has recently been revamped and a newfragrance called Cassili is to be launched next May.The brand now has a collection of 25 perfumes for men and women.

Exoticism in fragrances: Smile, back with banana, coconut, sunny solarnotes (tuberosed facets, milky fresh notes) and vanilla (even if expensive)in Guerlain, By Kilian, L’Artisan Parfumeur, Chopard …Bye bye oud; someclean laundry notes may come back as well after years of woody, animalic,fruity/sweet fragrances…

Environment, ethics, responsibility as a mindset: think to the future withsustainability, clean, green and luxury collections (Chopard, J.U.S, Widesociety, Le Couvent des Minimes, Burberry…).

Challenging fragrances: with 100% natural (Ormaie Paris, 100Bon, Fiilit) or100% vegan (Le Couvent des Minimes, Sabe Masson, 100Bon) with an artyor simple design…

New luxury: arty, design and upcycling such as J.U.S, …