Pondicherry

Colours & Flavours of Southern India:

From the Coromandel Coast to the Malabar Hills

With Chris and Carolyn Caldicott

15th – 28th February 2019

The Ultimate Travel Company

Escorted Tours

Colours & Flavours of Southern India: From the Coromandel Coast to the Malabar Hills

With Chris and Carolyn Caldicott

15th – 28th February 2019

Contact Flora Scott-Williams

Direct Line 020 7386 4643

Telephone 020 7386 4620

Email flora@theultimatetravelcompany.co.uk

Chris Caldicott

Since travelling to some of the most remote parts of the world as

Photographer-in-Residence to the Royal Geographical Society, Chris

Caldicott has continued his globetrotting lifestyle as a freelance

photographer, writer and lecturer specialising in food and travel. He has

had several books published about food, travel and the spice trade and

visited 108 countries in search of the perfect meal, finding most of the top

contenders on his 72 trips to India. As a journalist he is a regular

contributor to publications such as Vanity Fair, Conde Nast Traveller, The

Sunday Times, Harpers Bazaar, Tatler, House and Garden and the

Telegraph. Chris will offer a workshop at the beginning of the trip on how

to take better travel photographs and get the best out of your camera

covering exposure, focus and composition illustrated with examples of his

own work. He will also be offering one to one tutorials during the journey.

Carolyn Caldicott

Carolyn owed and ran the World Food Café in London’s Covent Garden

for 20 years. She now works as an author and food writer and together

with husband Chris has written several World Food Café recipe books

about global cuisine. Her recent books including Vintage Tea Party, re-

creating the nostalgic world of traditional English teatime treats; Rosehips

On a Kitchen Table, a manual for foragers, farmers market shoppers and

allotment gardeners; Comfort, recipes to warm the heart and feed the soul;

Bombay Lunch Box, about Anglo-Indian Tiffin with a contemporary twist;

and Great British Cooking, covering everything from roast beef to making

marmalade. Her next book Beside the Seaside, celebrating retro and

contemporary seaside cuisine, is out this spring. She also a food and travel

writer for Elle magazine. Carolyn will give a introduction to the regional

cuisine and the dishes you will enjoy on the journey and be on hand to

explain the mysteries of the wonderful spices and other ingredients on sale

in the colourful markets along the way.

Detailed Itinerary

Begin in Mahablipuram to explore the impressive 7th century Pallava Dynasty shore temples and

exquisitely hand carved cave and rock reliefs, before continuing on to Pondicherry, the French

colonial town, with elegant tree lined avenues, boulangeries, cool bars, seaside boulevards and

restaurants serving classic French dishes with a tropical twist. From Pondicherry drive south

through the countryside to a lovely new rural retreat among local farms and villages and stay among

the mango and jackfruit trees, with time to relax by a lovely outdoor pool between village walks and

home cooked meals. In Tanjore see bronze statues still being made with the traditional ‘lost wax

method’ used over a thousand years ago in the Chola Dynasty and visit the stunning Brihadeswara

Temple, built in the 11th century. Continue to the utterly charming vintage traditional Chettinad

Mansion converted into a fine rural boutique hotel with a pool and cook school featuring the unique

and delicious recipes of Chettinad cuisine including crab curries, pepper chicken and fish masalas.

On the way to the hillside spice plantations and forests of the Western Ghats, where herds of wild

elephants and other exotic fauna still roam on the Tamil Nadu-Kerala boarder, stop in Madurai to

visit the epic Meenakshi Temple - the Taj Mahal of South India - India’s largest, most impressive

and atmospheric ancient living temple and have a gentle walking tour of the city’s most visually

exciting souks. Feast on Keralan cuisine, stroll among aromatic spice plantations and take a boat

ride on Periyar Lake to spot wild elephant (and maybe more) along the forested shore before

descending towards the Arabian Sea for a backwater day cruise with a seafood lunch along the

backwaters to Cochin. Here see the famous shore line cantilever fishing nets that were introduced

by traders from the court of Kubla Khan, and many other legacies of Cochin’s past as the greatest

spice port of the Malabar Coast such as a Jewish quarter, Dutch Palace, Portuguese Cathedral -

where Vasco de Gamma was buried - and many fine mansions of the spice merchants.

During the trip Chris will be giving a rolling travel photography workshop for those that wish to

partake. Food always plays a big part of Chris and Carolyn’s trips and, again for those that wish,

they will be happy to give an introduction to the traditional local specialities of the different

regions.

Day 1: Friday, 15th February London / Chennai

Early afternoon British Airways flight (14.20 hrs) from London Heathrow to Chennai.

Day 2: Saturday, 16th February Chennai / Mahalbalipuram / Pondicherry

On arrival in the early morning (05.35 hrs), transfer to Mahalbalipuram, once the major seaport of the

ancient Pallava Kingdom based at Kanchipuram and home to some magnificent UNESCO World Heritage

temples and carvings. Breakfast at a wonderfully atmospheric local restaurant before a walking tour of all

the impressive 7th century Pallava Dynasty temples and exquisitely hand carved cave and rock reliefs. Visit

the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Shore Temple, a complex of temples and shrines overlooking the Bay

of Bengal. It is a structural temple, built with blocks of granite, dating from the 8th century AD and is one of

the oldest stone temples of southern India. Continue to the French colonial city of Pondicherry and check

into the beautifully restored colonial mansion, the Palais de Mahe CGH Earth Hotel, situated in the heart of

the historic French Quarter, and where two nights are spent.

Lunch at the hotel. Rest of the afternoon at leisure to enjoy the hotel’s facilities including a swimming pool

and Ayurvedic spa. Evening stroll along the sea front stopping for a drink at a typical colonial French bar.

Return to the hotel for dinner.

Shore Temple, Mahalbalipuram Immaculate Conception Cathedral, Pondicherry

Day 3: Sunday, 17th February Pondicherry

Enjoy a morning cyclo (rickshaw) tour of Pondicherry including the French Quarter with its elegant leafy

avenues and chic boutiques and cafes as well as the Tamil Quarter with its colourful Grand Bazaar and

Hindu temples. Stop at Maison Perumal CGH Earth Hotel, a former Tamil merchant’s mansion, for a

cooking demonstration using fresh and locally sourced ingredients.

Lunch at Maison Perumal CGH Earth Hotel. Afternoon walking tour of the Pondicherry French Quarter

including the old colonial villas; Café des Artes, filled with colonial art and furniture; Domus, a wonderful

café and boutique shop selling beautiful furniture, lamps and fabrics; the enchanting Cluny Embroidery

Centre, a women’s not-for-profit collective selling hand-sewn, exquisitely embroidered bed linen and table

cloths; Artika Café Gallery, filled with paintings and wall murals; the 300 year old Catholic Church of

Immaculate Conception; and finally a stop at Baker Street a French-style bakery offering tempting eclairs,

oven-fresh croissants, tasty brioche, sumptuous quiches and fresh crepes. Dinner at a local art collector’s

house.

Day 4: Monday, 18th February Pondicherry / Chidambaram / Kumbakonam

Morning departure (with luggage) to Chidambaram to visit Nataraja Shiva Temple. Built in the 10th century

this Hindu temple is dedicated to Lord Shiva, the lord of dance. Visit Gangaikondacholapuram Rural

Temple on route to the 4-star eco-friendly Mantra Koodram CGH Earth Hotel in Kumakonam where one

night spent.

Lunch at the hotel. Rest of the afternoon at leisure to enjoy the hotel’s swimming pool and Ayurvedic spa or

optional village walk with bullock cart ride. Dinner at the hotel.

Day 5: Tuesday, 19th February Kumbakonam / Tanjore

Morning departure (with luggage) and visit a rural market and temple on the way to Tanjore. Check into the

boutique Svatma Hotel a restored colonial home of a British trader, and where two nights are spent.

Light lunch at the hotel. Rest of the afternoon at leisure. Late afternoon visit to Brihadishvara Temple, the

grandest architectural achievement of the Chola era, which was erected in about 1010 by Rajaraja I, who

personally donated the gilded pot finial at the summit of the tower. Enjoy the sunset at the temple. Dinner at

the hotel.

Chidambaram Shiva Temple Ayyanar at Ellangudipatti

Day 6: Wednesday, 20th February Tanjore

Morning visit to Nayaka Palace which stands surrounded by walls in the middle of the Old City. The royal

complex was founded by Shevappa Nayaka, but was enlarged and altered many times. Admire the fine

bronzes and depictions of Shiva which predominate in early Chola art. Also visit the Royal Museum which

has a small collection of royal memorabilia. Continue to visit local artist studios and the city walls as well as

the lost wax bronze city workshop where we will see bronze statues still being made with the traditional ‘lost

wax method’ used over a thousand years ago in the Chola Dynasty.

Lunch under own arrangements. Remainder of the afternoon at leisure to enjoy the hotel’s facilities

including a swimming pool and spa. Early evening cooking demonstration at the hotel. Dinner at the hotel

with musical performances.

Day 7: Thursday, 21st February Tanjore / Kanadukathan

Early morning option to experience Vedic chanting before breakfast. Depart (with luggage) and visit the

Ayyana horse shrines at Ellangudipatti. Ayyanar is a village god associated with the bounty of the earth and

thought to grant the village bountiful rains or a good harvest. The shrines are often found in sacred groves

located a little way outside the village and whilst various types of figures can be found, the most common

forms are horses, which represent the mounts of Ayyanar and his army. Shrines generally consist of rows of

large, vibrantly decorated terra cotta figures ranging from 4 to 20 feet in height. Continue to the Vislam

CGH Earth Hotel in Kanadukathan where two nights are spent.

Light lunch at a local restaurant. Afternoon visits to local mansions built by the globe-trotting Hindu

merchant and banking clan called the Nattukottai Chettiars that thrived during colonialist expansion. Also

visit the shopping streets with antique and enamel shops. Dinner at the hotel.

Day 8: Friday, 22nd February Kanadukathan

Morning tour of Kanadukathan, one of 9 villages of the prominent Chettiar, where majestic villas, imposing

colonial style bungalows and other stately ruins of a bygone era still stand with their stature and grandeur.

Visit the local tile makers.

Enjoy a Bagala cooking demonstration followed by lunch. Afternoon visit to the town market and mansions

followed by free time for shopping. Return to the hotel. Cooking demonstration followed by dinner at the

hotel.

Banana Market Madurai Elephants at the Periyar Wildlife Sanctuary

Day 9: Saturday, 23rd February Kanadukathan / Madurai / Thekady

Morning departure (with luggage) to Madurai and experience the 17 acre compound of the Meenakshi

Temple, one of the holiest Hindu temples in Southern India. Visit one of the many textile and tailoring

outlets around the temple, the souk as well as the vegetable and banana market where 16 varieties of bananas

are sold.

Packed lunch. Continue to Thekady and check into Spice Village CGH Earth Hotel where two nights are

spent. Remainder of the afternoon at leisure. Dinner at the hotel.

Day 10: Sunday, 24th February Thekady

Morning spice tour of local plantation. Various kinds of spices are cultivated in Thekady including pepper,

cinnamon, clove, nutmeg, ginger, turmeric and curry leaves

Lunch at the hotel of local Keralan dishes. Visit the Periyar Wildlife Sanctuary covered in dense evergreen,

moist deciduous forests and savannah grasslands. Not only an elephant and tiger reserve, it is also home to

rare, endemic and endangered flora and fauna. The vast region is inhabited by bison, sambar, wild boar,

langur, elephants and tigers. Dinner at the hotel.

Day 11: Monday, 25th February Thekady / Cochin

Morning departure with luggage and enjoy a morning cruise on a traditional houseboat along the magical

backwaters, a network of lakes, rivers and narrow palm-fringed canals. During the journey watch life go by

on the waters edge and see the many small boats ferrying goods and people. The local economy is reliant

upon the coconut and its many derivative products, which can be seen amongst the goods being transported

on the canals.

Traditional Keralan lunch on board. Transfer to Brunton Boatyard CGH Earth Hotel (or similar) where two

nights are spent. Late afternoon walk along the shore to see the Chinese Fishing Nets, which were first

erected between 1350 and 1450. Made of Teak and Bamboo poles they resemble sculptures, but are in fact

working nets. Dinner under own arrangements.

Chinese fishing nets, Cochin Jew Town, Cochin

Day 12: Tuesday, 26th February Cochin

Morning at leisure for shopping.

Lunch under own arrangements. Afternoon city tour of Cochin, which dates from ancient times and has been

an important trading post for centuries. The legacy of this is a diverse culture and many fascinating

buildings. Begin at the old docks and merchants’ houses in Mattancherry, before continuing to visit the 16th

century ‘Dutch Palace’, which was actually built by the Portuguese but given to the Raja of Cochin and later

restored by the Dutch, hence the name, which is set in walled gardens and has exquisite interiors with Hindu

wall-paintings and teak carvings. Visit Fort Cochin, lying at the tip of the isthmus, now a heritage site, where

the fine houses formerly inhabited by British merchants can be seen, together with the 16th century church of

St. Francis and the neighbouring Basilica Santa Cruz with its vivid décor and the former Parade Ground with

its surrounding buildings. Farewell dinner at the hotel.

Day 13: Wednesday, 27th February Cochin / Mumbai

Morning visit to Jew Town with its striped warehouses, shuttered houses and fine synagogue, which

originally dates from 1567 although later rebuilt. The interior has Chinese willow-pattern floor tiles, Belgian

chandeliers and gold crowns gifted over the centuries. Explore the city’s spice markets before returning to

the hotel to check out (a small number of day rooms to share amongst the group have been arranged to store

luggage and also so the group can shower and/or change before they depart for the airport).

Lunch at the hotel. Remainder of the afternoon at leisure. Early evening transfer to Cochin airport for a

domestic flight to Mumbai arriving in the late evening.

Day 14: Thursday, 28th February Mumbai / London

Depart early morning British Airways flight (02.15hrs) to London Heathrow arriving in the early morning

(06.50hrs).

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Tour Price

COST PER PERSON: £5,230

Single supplement: £1,445

Visa fees: TBA

Premium Economy supplement: from £269 including the airport taxes and subject to availability

Business Class supplement: from £1,437 including the airport taxes and subject to availability

The tour cost includes:

• economy class international scheduled flights

• air passenger duty, passenger service charge, airline security charges, airport taxes and fuel surcharges

where applicable – currently £335 for Economy Class (liable to change without notice)

• domestic flights as shown in the itinerary

• accommodation throughout as shown in the itinerary

• breakfast daily; 10 lunches; 10 dinners

• all entrance fees, visits and excursions as per the itinerary

• all transportation as detailed in the itinerary

• local English-speaking guide/s

• gratuities to driver/s; gratuities to guide/s; gratuities in restaurants; porterage

• the services of your tour leaders throughout

The tour cost does NOT include:

• travel insurance

• items of personal expenditure (e.g. alcoholic beverages / telephone calls / laundry etc.)

• government levies or taxes introduced after costing and publication of this programme on 10/02/18

Changes to the Itinerary

Please note, that certain elements of this itinerary, and/or the order of events, may well be subject to

alteration due to circumstances beyond our control.

Fitness to travel

Whilst we do not impose any age limitations on joining a tour, participants must be reasonably fit. The very

nature of the sightseeing involved in our tours (and the difficulties of direct access by coach in various

places) means that a considerable amount of walking and standing is unavoidable on almost all tours. We

regret that our tours are not suitable for people who have difficulty in walking, may require wheelchair

assistance at any time, or are unable to keep pace with the group. If you are in any doubt as to the suitability

of a tour, please make this known to us before you book and we will advise you accordingly. The Ultimate

Travel Company reserves the right to decline a reservation without necessarily giving a reason.

Airline Tickets

As a tour operator we have access to special airfares. While these offer good value, they do carry certain

restrictions applied by the airline. Please ask us for details.

Note: If you are thinking about using air miles to upgrade to a premium cabin on the flights, please check

with us first as fare restrictions might not permit this.

Health Requirements

No vaccinations are required for entry into India however if you have travelled within a yellow fever infected

area during the previous six days prior to arrival you will require proof of inoculation. The following

inoculations are recommended: Typhoid, Hepatitis A and B, Diphtheria, Tetanus and Polio. Malaria is

present throughout most of India so anti-malaria prophylactics are advised.

Please check recommended practice with your GP, practice nurse or travel health clinic.

Passport and Visa Information

British Nationals require a visa for India. This can be obtained through the new online e-Tourist Visa service

(currently the easiest and cheapest option), through CIBT (our recommended visa service provider) or

directly through one of the Indian Visa Application Centres located throughout the UK.

Passengers should hold a full passport, which should be valid for six months after you return to the UK and

should also have at least three empty pages for the visa. Nationals of other countries should consult their

local Indian Embassy.

Baggage Allowance

Please note that the internal flights within India have a baggage allowance of 23kg per person. Excess

baggage is charged at a flat rate of INR 300 per kg inclusive of service tax.

FCO Advice

We recommend that you periodically review the travel advice issued by the Foreign & Commonwealth

Office, which relates to all aspects of your destination, at www.gov.uk/knowbeforeyougo.

Accommodation

Hotels are chosen on the basis of category, character and location. The majority will be at least 4 star,

otherwise the best available. The projected size of the group will often rule out the use of luxury boutique

hotels. Sometimes the style of hotel will mean that not all rooms are of the same size or have the same

outlook.