Upload
makarand-attarde
View
290
Download
0
Embed Size (px)
Citation preview
Points to be studied?
�Definition
�Characteristics of lipsticks
�Composition
� Formulation related problems� Formulation related problems
�Moulding related problems
�Evaluation of finished products
�Marketed products
• Also called as lip cosmetics, widely used by women.
• It may be refer as color cosmetics.
• Lipstick is a cosmetic product containing pigments,
oils, waxes, and emollients that applies color and
DEFINITION
oils, waxes, and emollients that applies color and
texture to the lips.
• There are many varieties of lipstick.
• Lippy is a common British word for lipstick.
Characteristics of Lipsticks� Should cover lips adequately
� Long last effect
� Make lips soft
� Must adhere firmly to lips without being brittle & tacky
� Good degree of quality
� Completely free from grittiness
� Non- drying � Non- drying
� Non- irritating to skin of lips
� Desirable degree of plasticity
� Should have high retention of colors intensity without any change in shades
� Pleasant odor & flavor
� Free from sweating
� Shiny & smooth appearance
� Easily applicable & removable
� Stable both physically & chemically
Composition
� Wax mixture
� Oil mixture
� Bromo mixture
� Colors� Colors
� Preservatives
� Fragrance
� Antioxidants
� Surfactants & other additives
WAXES
�The gloss & hardness are generally depends
on characteristics & quantity of waxes
�Best characteristic is obtained by using
mixture of waxes of different m.p & adjusting mixture of waxes of different m.p & adjusting
the final m.p. by incorporating a sufficient
amount of high m.p. wax.
Various waxes used in lipstick
Wax M.P % Purpose
Cetostearyl alcohol 42-45 2-3 Emollient
Cetyl alcohol 45-50 2-3 Emollient
Ceresin wax 60-75 5-20 Increase m.p.
5-20 Bind oils & higher m.p. waxesWhite beeswax 62-64 5-20 Bind oils & higher m.p. waxes
Candelilla wax 65-69 5-10 Gives smooth & glossy appearance
Carnauba wax 80-88 1-3 Imparts rigidity & hardness
Hard paraffin 50 - 57 1-5 Improves gloss
Soft paraffin 38 – 56 1-5 Lubricant, increase spreadability
OILS• The oil mixture is required to blend properly with the waxes to
provide a suitable film on the applied lip skin.
• Also acts as solvent in some formulation.
• Acts as dispersing agent for insoluble pigments.
• The ideal mixture of oil should produce the product, easily spread &
produce a thin film with good covering power.produce a thin film with good covering power.
• Examples:
– Castor oil
– Tetrahydrofurfuryl alcohol (THFA) & esters
– Fatty acid alkylamides
– Paraffin oil
– Isopropyl myristate
– Isopropyl palmitate
– Butyl stearate
BROMO MIXTURE
• Maintain the physical form of the formulation
• Also called as bromo acids
• Two classes:
– Red : gives red or reddish blue stain
– Orange , red : gives pink to yellowish pink stain – Orange , red : gives pink to yellowish pink stain
• About 2-3% bromo acids are used in lipstick
• Solvent used to be mixed with bromo acids:
– Castor oil & butyl stearate
– THFA & esters like acetate, stearate & benzoate
– Glyceryl monostearate or monolaurate & diethylene glycol monostearate
– PG or PEG
• Examples of bromo mixture:
– Bromo acid : 15 gm
– PG : 200gm
– PG monomyristate : 100 gm
• Procedure:
– Mix bromo acid solution & PG (for clearing each other)
– Add PG monomyristate
– Which gives bromo acid that easily mixes with mineral oil &
castor oil & produces a homogenous mass with waxes.
COLORS
• Most important from commercial & appearance point of view.
• In olden days, carmine was widely used, but nowadays various
other are available.
• Color in lipstick is imparted by two ways:
– By staining the skin with soln of dyestuff which can penetrate the – By staining the skin with soln of dyestuff which can penetrate the
outer layer of skin ---- SOLUBLE DYES
– By covering the lips with a colored layer which serves to hide any
skin roughness & give a smooth appearance ---- INSOLUBLE
DYES
• Soluble Dyes / Staining Dyes :
– Example:
• Fluorescein,
• Eosin
• Insoluble Dyes / Nonstaining Dyes / lake colors :• Insoluble Dyes / Nonstaining Dyes / lake colors :
– Example:
• Lakes of Calcium, Barium, Aluminium, Strontium
• Used in 10 – 15 % concentration based on shade
• TiO2 is generally used in conc. of 1% for pink shade
PRESERVATIVES
• Used to prevent microbial growth
• Example:
– 0.1% propyl parahydrohybenzoate in 0.1%
• Higher conc. of preservative can cause slightly burning
sensation or allergic reaction.
FRAGRANCE
• Essential component of lipstick
• Used to mask bad odor of fatty or wax
• Used to impart attractive flavor
• Conc. 2-4% • Conc. 2-4%
• Qualities for selection:
– Free from irritating effect
– Free from disagreeable taste
– Stable & compatible with other ings.
ANTIOXIDANTS
• Incorporated to prevent rancidification of oily base
during storage.
• Generally used in combination
• Example: • Example:
– BHA,
– BHT,
– Propyl gallate,
– Citric acid
SURFACTANTS & OTHER ADDITIVES
• SURFACTANTS :Used to promote wetting & stabilize the
dispersion of insoluble pigments in lipstick base
• ADDITIVES: used for various purposes
– Oil - soluble sunscreen: filter the sunrays & protect lip skin from sun
burn.
– Silicon fluid: used as fixative & prevent colors, from bleeding on lips.
– PVP: (conc. 0.5 – 1%) film former on lips & reduce allergic reaction of
other ings. in lipstick.
– Isopropyl linoleate: prevent drying effect.
Formula & Procedure
Ingredients Quantity Given
Carnauba Wax 10
Lanolin 5
Cetyl Alcohol 5
Castor Oil 65
Bromo Acid 2% of base weight
Colour Pigment (FeO + TiO2) 5% of base weight
Perfume q.s.
Bees Wax 15
General Manufacturing Process
• Steps involved:
– Melting and mixing
– Molding
– Labeling and packaging
Defects in lipstick
• Formulation related
– Sweating
– Bleeding
• Mould related
– Laddering
– Deformation
– Blooming
– Streaking
– Seams
– Catering
– Mushy Failure
FORMULATION RELATED PROBLEMSFORMULATION RELATED PROBLEMS
• Sweating:
– Most common problem.
– Caused due to high oil content or
inferior oil-blending capacity of the wax inferior oil-blending capacity of the wax
composition.
– It may arise in any climate or temp.
range
• Bleeding:
– Separation of coloured liquids from the waxy
base.
– It leads to extremely uneven color
FORMULATION RELATED PROBLEMSFORMULATION RELATED PROBLEMS
– It leads to extremely uneven color
distribution
• Blooming:
– When the surface of the lipstick appears dull instead
of desired gloss is called as the problem of blooming.
– It is chiefly due to higher percentage of cetyl alcohol
FORMULATION RELATED PROBLEMSFORMULATION RELATED PROBLEMS
– It is chiefly due to higher percentage of cetyl alcohol
(> 5%)
• Streaking:
– A thin line or band of different color or substances
appears to the surface of finished products.
– Problem arise due to separation of suspended
FORMULATION RELATED PROBLEMSFORMULATION RELATED PROBLEMS
– Problem arise due to separation of suspended
particles.
• Seams:
– Marks left on the lipsticks when split moulds are used.
– They are caused either due to brittle masses or due
to faulty cooling technique.
FORMULATION RELATED PROBLEMSFORMULATION RELATED PROBLEMS
to faulty cooling technique.
•• Laddering:Laddering:
– Product has a ladder like appearance
– It does not look smooth or homogeneous
after congealing & setting but instead a
MOULDING RELATED PROBLEMSMOULDING RELATED PROBLEMS
multilayered appearance.
– Occur due to either mould is kept at a
very low temperature or when bulk
formulation is not hot enough or filling
rate is slow.
•• Deformation:Deformation:
– The shape of the lipstick looks
deformed.
– It is most noticeable in softer
MOULDING RELATED PROBLEMSMOULDING RELATED PROBLEMS
– It is most noticeable in softer
formulae.
– Can appear on side of the
lipstick or on both the sides.
•• Catering:Catering:
– This effect is mostly found in split
mouldings.
– It shows up in flaming when the stick
MOULDING RELATED PROBLEMSMOULDING RELATED PROBLEMS
– It shows up in flaming when the stick
develops dimples (spots).
– The main cause is the presence of trace
amounts of silicone oils or machinery
lubrication oil from manufacturing mixtures
or the dispenser mixture.
•• Mushy Failure:Mushy Failure:
– The central core of the stick lacks
structure & breaks.
– The problem is not related to
MOULDING RELATED PROBLEMSMOULDING RELATED PROBLEMS
– The problem is not related to
particular formula or particular shade.
– The granularity caused by carnauba
wax could be the reason for this
problem.
Quality control of Lipsticks Quality control of Lipsticks
• QC procedures are strict
• The only cosmetic ingested, because of this strict controls on
ingredients & manufacturing processes, are imposed.
• Mixed and processed in a controlled environment so it will be • Mixed and processed in a controlled environment so it will be
free of contamination.
• Incoming material is tested to ensure that it meets required
specifications.
• Samples of every batch produced are saved and stored at
room temperature for the life of the product
EVALUATION OF FINISHED PRODUCTSEVALUATION OF FINISHED PRODUCTS
�Color control
�Determination of Melting Point (Heat Test )
�Softening Point�Softening Point
�Microbial Testing
�Rancidity
�Rupture Test
�Breaking Load Test.
Color controlColor control
• Color control of lipstick is critical, and one only has to see the range of
colors available from a manufacturer to be aware of this.
• The dispersion of the pigment is checked stringently when a new batch is
manufactured, and the color must be carefully controlled when the lipstick
mass is reheated.
• Colorimetric equipment is used to provide some control on the shades of
lipstick.
• This equipment gives a numerical reading of the shade, when mixed, so it
can identically match previous batches.
• Matching of reheated batches is done visually, so careful time and
environment controls are placed on lipstick mass when it is not immediately
used.
DETERMINATION OF M.P.DETERMINATION OF M.P.
• The lipstick base should have a M.P. between
55 - 750C. (600 C ideal)
• METHOD:
– Sample- approx. 50 mg
– Melt & fill into a glass capillary tube open
on both the ends.on both the ends.
– Cool the capillary tube with ice for 2 hours
– Fasten the capillary tube to a thermometer.
– Place a beaker full of water on a heating
plate with a magnetic stirrer.
– Start heating & stirring at slow & fixed
speed.
– The temp at which material moves along
the capillary tube is considered its M.P
SOFTENING POINTSOFTENING POINT
• A lipstick should withstand the range of conditions to
which it will subjected in the consumers handbag.
• It should be resistant to varying temp & be just as easy
to apply in the hot as in cold weather.to apply in the hot as in cold weather.
• Softening point range 50-550C.
• Method:
– Ring and Ball method
– Second Method
SOFTENING POINTSOFTENING POINT
Ring & Ball MethodRing & Ball Method
• A ring or support orifice is taken & the lipstick to be tested is inserted into it.
• Extra mass above & below the orifice is removed using a sharp blade leaving
a tablet of lipstick fitted into the ring.
• This is placed in refrigerator (60C) for about 10 min.
• Ring is tied onto a stand or bar.
SOFTENING POINTSOFTENING POINT
Ring & Ball MethodRing & Ball Method
• A beaker containing 500 ml water at
room temp. is placed on a hot plate
having a magnetic stirrer.
• A steel ball is delicately placed on the
lipstick tablet.lipstick tablet.
• The bar is with support is then inserted
into the beaker till it submerges into it.
• Heating & slow agitation is then begun.
Temp is monitored using a thermometer.
• The temp at which the lipstick mass &
steel balls are loosened & falls to the
bottom of the beaker is the S.P.
SOFTENING POINTSOFTENING POINT
Another methodAnother method
• The whole lipstick along with its stand is kept in a long
flat bottom tube.
• Care should be taken that the lipstick is in a protruded
position & the bulb of the thermometer just touches the position & the bulb of the thermometer just touches the
lipstick mass.
• Place this setup in a 1 liter beaker filled with water to a
level 1 cm above the upper up of the protruding lipstick.
• Start heating water very slowly (@1-20C/min).
• The temp at which the lipstick start bending & deforming
from its shape is the S.P.
MICROBIAL TESTINGMICROBIAL TESTING
• Contamination from raw materials, moulds, storage kettles
or lipstick container can lead to microbial growth.
• Microbial testing is suggested in IS:9875:1990,
• The test consists of plating a known mass of the sample on
two selected culture media specifically suitable for the
growth of bacteria & fungi & incubating them for a specified
period to permit the development of visual colonies for
counting.
• The limit is, not more than 100 µo/gm.
RANCIDITYRANCIDITY
• Rancidification is the decomposition of fats, oils and
other lipids by hydrolysis or oxidation.
• Is the oxidation of castor oil or other waxy or lipoidal
ingredients.ingredients.
• It leads to obnoxious odor, bad taste & sticky product &
sometimes change of color of the product.
• Testing of rancidity can be done by determining its
peroxide number.
BREAKING LOAD TESTBREAKING LOAD TEST
• The test is to find out the value of
maximum load that a lipstick can withstand
before it breaks.
• The protruded lipstick salve is subjected to
a number of weights hanging from it.
• The weight at which the lipsticks breaks is
its Breaking Load.
BREAKING LOAD TESTBREAKING LOAD TEST
• Weights can be replaced by using
increasing increments of water
from a burette.
Rupture TestRupture Test
� In the Rupture Test, the lipstick is placed in two holders,
in the extended position.
� Weight is added to the holder on the lipstick portion at
30-second intervals until the lipstick ruptures. 30-second intervals until the lipstick ruptures.
� The pressure required to rupture the lipstick is then
checked against the manufacturer's standards.
� Since there are no industry standards for these tests,
each manufacturer sets its own parameters.
Marketed Products
• Lakme
• ELE- 18
References
• Cosmetics: P.P.Sharma
• Harry’s cosmetics
• Cosmetics: Vimladevi
• BIS Guidelines: Govt. of India