Cold Seafood 6 Chapter Copyright © 2011 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc. All Rights Reserved

Cold Seafood6Chapter

Copyright © 2011 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc. All Rights Reserved

Cold Seafood

Before reading this chapter, you should already:• Have read “How to Use This Book,” pages xxviii-xxxiii,

and understand the professional recipe format.

• Know basic sanitation procedures for products served raw.

• Know state and local regulations for food-service glove use.

Chapter Pre-Requisites

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Cold Seafood

After reading this chapter, you should be able to:• Identify categories of seafood, and select fish and shellfish

appropriate for use in cold service.• Poach, steam, pan-steam, shallow-poach, and grill fish and shellfish

for use in cold service.• Prepare fish and shellfish by “cooking” them with acidic ingredients.• Prepare seafood mousses and use them to create terrines,

timbales, and other formed presentations.• Serve raw fish and shellfish in accordance with food safety

guidelines.• Identify, purchase, and correctly serve caviar.

Chapter Objectives

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Cold Seafood

A strictly literal definition of the term seafood is “foods from the sea.”

• This broad definition includes the various plant foods and mineral salts harvested from salt water bodies, and excludes foods harvested from fresh water.

• However, here we define the term seafood to mean “non-mammal animal foods derived from both fresh and saltwater sources.”

Understanding Seafood Classifications

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Cold Seafood

Seafood Classifications• Fish Aquatic animals

– with bony interior skeletons and fins.

– that take in oxygen through gills.

• Fish eggs, called caviar, are also considered seafood when processed and salted.


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Round fish: red snapper

Flat fish: flounder

Cold Seafood

Seafood Classifications• Shellfish Aquatic animals

– with shells instead of skeletons.

– that take in oxygen in various ways.

• Crustaceans have complex segmented exterior shells and legs.– Examples: lobsters, shrimp, and

crabs.


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Lobster

Blue crabShrimp

Cold Seafood

Seafood Classifications• Mollusks have simple shell

structures (or no shell) and no legs.• Can be further divided into 3 groups:

1. Bivalves: Shellfish with hinged two-section exterior shells.

a) Examples: clams, oysters, mussels, scallops.

2. Univalves: Similar to bivalves, but have only one exterior shell section.

a) Example: abalone

3. Cephalopods: Mollusks with tentacles and a defined head.


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Scallop in shell

Cherrystone clams

Blue mussels

St. James River oysters

Abalone

Cold Seafood

Seafood Classifications• Mollusks have simple shell

structures (or no shell) and no legs.– Some, such as squid and

cuttlefish, have interior shell-like structures.

– Octopus, on the other hand, have no interior shells.

• Example: Squid


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Squid

Cold Seafood

Cold Seafood Appetizers• Because of its high cost, seafood is often more popular

as an appetizer than as a main course. • Customers may find that a small appetizer-size portion is

more affordable than a large entrée-sized portion. • Cold seafood appetizers may be served any time of

year.

Types of Cold Seafood Dishes

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Cold Seafood

Cold Seafood Appetizers• Seafood Cocktails

– A seafood cocktail consists of chilled seafood tossed/topped with a sauce.

• It is typically served in a cocktail glass on a bed of shredded lettuce with lemon wedges.

• It may be made with crabmeat, lobster meat, crayfish tails, raw oysters, or a mixture of chilled seafood.

– Shrimp cocktail is the best-known type.

– The traditional North American cocktail sauce is based on tomato ketchup and prepared horseradish.


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Classic Shrimp Cocktail

Cold Seafood

Cold Seafood Appetizers• Raw Seafood Appetizers

– A special category of cold seafood appetizers features fish and shellfish served raw.

– Various bivalves, such as oysters and clams, are commonly served raw on the half-shell, and specific fish are frequently served as tartares or sashimi .

• Their delicate textures and subtle flavors are considered at their best when not changed by the application of heat, salt, or acid.


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Cold Seafood

Cold Seafood Entrées• Not as common as appetizers. • However, in hot weather, both cold

seafood entrées and appetizers are refreshing and unusual.

Seafood Presentations for the Cold Buffet

• A platter presentation of cold fish or shellfish is frequently planned as the centerpiece of a cold buffet.


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Asian spice- crusted tuna with coconut rice salad and mango salsa

Cold Seafood

• Most seafood is tender in texture and must be lightly cooked.

• It is important to be careful about doneness when preparing seafood to be served cold because carryover cooking occurs during cooling.

• The challenge is deciding what cooking method to use. – While seafood to be served hot can be prepared by many

methods, not all methods produce palatable cold seafood items.

Cooking Methods for Cold Seafood

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Cold Seafood

Poaching• Poaching is the gentle cooking method most frequently

used for cold seafood.• To poach: to cook a food completely submerged in a

cuisson , or flavorful poaching liquid, at a moderate to low temperature.

• Shallow poaching: A technique in which food is simmered, but not completely submerged, in a cuisson.


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Cold Seafood

Cuissons for Poaching Seafood• Three standard cuissons are used for poaching seafood:

1. Court bouillon : A flavorful liquid made by simmering together mirepoix, a bouquet garni, white wine, and water. Lemon juice is sometimes added. a) Also called nage , a term also used to describe a dish in which

the cuisson is served as a broth or very light sauce along with seafood.


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Cold Seafood

Cuissons for Poaching Seafood• Three standard cuissons are used for poaching seafood:

2. Fish or shellfish stock: Flavorful stock imparts its taste to the seafood poached in it. a) It is frequently used as a component of the sauce with which the

poached seafood is served.

3. Brine: A solution of salt and water. a) A brine cuisson is especially appropriate for seafood because it

approximates the salt concentration of seawater and the natural habitat of the creatures being cooked in it.


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Cold Seafood

Procedure for Poaching Seafood• Place enough of the cuisson in a

nonreactive pan to completely cover the seafood. Bring it to a boil.

• Prepare an ice bain-marie to accommodate the cooking pan and an adequate quantity of ice.

• Add the seafood to the cuisson and wait for the cuisson to recover to a bare simmer (A).

• Poach the seafood just under the desired doneness.

• Cool quickly to stop carryover cooking (B).


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(B)

(A)

Cold Seafood

Carryover Cooking• It is an important factor when poaching seafood for cold

presentation.• Seafood to be served cold will carryover cook for a

longer time because it takes time to cool completely.

Steaming• Steaming is cooking food in an enclosed space

completely surrounded by the vapor produced by water heated to temperatures above 212°F (100°C).


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Cold Seafood

Pan-Steaming• A cooking method in which small, sturdy food items are cooked over

high heat in a covered pot or sauté pan with a small amount of liquid that quickly turns into steam.

• In garde manger work mussels and shrimp are seafood items typically pan-steamed.

Grilling• A harsh, high-heat cooking method, that can be used only for firm-

textured seafood. • Marinades, and marinade-like basting sauces, are typically used

when grilling seafood items.


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Cold Seafood

“Cooking” with Acid• Heat

– Tightens a protein food’s fibers and makes the food firmer.

– Affects the color of the food, gradually changing it from slightly translucent to opaque.

– Gradually destroys red pigments that are present.

• Acid has a similar effect that heat has on delicate seafood.– Highly acidic liquids (i.e., citrus juice or vinegar) quickly penetrate the

soft, porous muscle tissue of tender-textured seafood.

– The acid then changes the protein structure of the seafood’s flesh.

– As a result, the seafood acquires a cooked flavor and appearance, although it has not been heated.


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Cold Seafood

Understanding Mousses• Consists of a full-flavored base of cooked, puréed food lightened

with whipped cream and/or beaten egg whites, served with no further cooking.

• All mousses have two main components:1. The purée base: In a savory mousse, the purée base may consist of

cooked or smoked seafood, cooked or smoked poultry, smoked meats, cooked or raw vegetables, or cheese.

2. Lightening ingredients: In a savory mousse, lighteners such as whipped cream and/or beaten egg whites are used to capture air and give a light, fluffy texture when incorporated into the purée base.

Seafood Mousses

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Cold Seafood

Determining Mousse Texture• Many mousses need the addition of a stabilizer, or

stabilizing ingredient, in the form of gelatin. • A mousse stabilizer gives the purée base enough

structure to hold the lighteners and, in some cases, to ensure the mousse will stand alone when unmolded.

Seafood Mousses

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Cold Seafood

Determining Mousse Texture• The finished texture of a mousse is determined by three

factors:1. Natural consistency of the purée base.

a) The base should be about the thickness of pastry cream so that the added lightening ingredients can keep their volume.

b) Adjustments to consistency of the base must be made for effective preparation.

Seafood Mousses

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Cold Seafood

Determining Mousse Texture• The finished texture of a mousse is determined by three

factors:2. The amount of gelatin added.

a) Gelatin is added to firm the texture of the finished mousse.

b) The more gelatin is added, the thicker and more stable the final product.

c) Too much gelatin gives a mousse an unpleasant, rubbery texture.

3. The ratio of purée base to lightening ingredients. a) Adding a smaller amount of whipped cream and/or beaten egg

white results in a thicker, firmer mousse.

b) Using more makes a softer, less stable mousse.

Seafood Mousses

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Cold Seafood

Preparing Seafood Mousses• Unless you are using smoked seafood, your first step in

preparing a seafood mousse is to cook the seafood. • Poaching is the most common method.• Steamed seafood may also be used.• To ensure smooth texture and successful structure:

– trim all visible connective tissue.– remove all dark deposit fat before or after cooking.

• Cool the seafood before proceeding.

Seafood Mousses

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Cold Seafood

Guidelines for Food Safety in Mousses • Use pasteurized egg whites only.• Bring egg whites to room temperature shortly before use.• Wear food-service gloves when preparing mousses.• Work quickly and in small batches.• Clean and sanitize the preparation equipment, especially

the grinder or food processor.• Clean and sanitize all molds, forms, or pastry bags and

tips used to present mousses.

Seafood Mousses

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Cold Seafood

Standards for Serving Raw Seafood• Seafood is highly perishable—both its quality and

wholesomeness deteriorate quickly. • Seafood intended for raw consumption must be

exceptionally fresh, both for health reasons and for palatability.

• To successfully include raw seafood on your menu, you must understand the risks involved, and comply with both local and national regulations. (See next slide for guidelines.)

Seafood Served Raw

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Cold Seafood

Guidelines for Purchasing Whole Fish• Gills are brightly colored and moist, not brown or gray

and sticky.• Scales are shiny and tightly attached, not dull in color and

falling off.• Blood behind the cavity membrane is a bright red or

burgundy color, not brown or black.• Flesh is intact and firm and springy to the touch, not split

open and mushy in texture.

Seafood Served Raw

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Cold Seafood

Guidelines for Purchasing Whole Fish• With the exception of frozen, sashimi-grade fish, fish for

raw service should be purchased whole. • Look for the following freshness indicators:

– Aroma is fresh, mild, and briny, with no fishy odor.– Eyes are moist and convex, or bulging, and not dry or sunken.

Seafood Served Raw

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Cold Seafood

Fabricating Bivalves• Staff members assigned to open bivalves must be trained in safety

procedures and equipped with a stainless-steel cut proof glove.– Keep clam knives and oyster knives in good condition, with backups

provided in case of breakage.

– Do not use paring knives and other standard knives, as they break easily and can slip and cause injuries.

• Make sure that seafood for raw service comes from safe and uncontaminated waters. – Most ocean fish are safe for raw consumption; freshwater fish are not.

– Freshwater species may contain parasites that can be transmitted to humans if eaten raw.

Seafood Served Raw

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Cold Seafood

Guidelines for Raw Seafood Sanitation and Safety• To serve raw seafood that is both safe and delicious,

observe these strict standards:– Sanitize all surfaces that will come into contact with the seafood. – Frequently sanitize cutting boards and knives used for raw

seafood.

Seafood Served Raw

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Cold Seafood

• Technically, any type of saltwater seafood may be eaten raw as long as it is:– harvested from approved waters.– freshly killed.– correctly cleaned and fabricated.– not of a species likely to contain parasites.

• However, not all types of shellfish are considered palatable when served raw.

Raw Shellfish Specialties

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Cold Seafood

Raw Oysters• Oysters are bivalves with hard, rough shells of varying shape. • The shells have a definitive top and bottom:

– The bottom shell is cup-like.

– The top shell is flatter than the bottom shell.

• Oyster flesh is very delicate.• Fresh oysters contain a high percentage of fluid.

• The liquid surrounding the oyster is called oyster liquor, though it does not contain alcohol. Oyster liquor is flavorful and should be reserved and used for soups and sauces.


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Cold Seafood

Half-Shell Service• Oysters on the half-shell are freshly shucked (opened

and the meat removed) and presented in their cup-shaped bottom shells.

• Opening fresh oysters to order requires extra turnout time and skilled labor.


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Cold Seafood

Guidelines for Raw Seafood Sanitation and Safety• Store clam and oyster knives in sanitizing solution

between uses.• When opening bivalves, use towels and gloves that are

clean and free from strings and lint. (Change frequently.)• If the “liquor” from opened bivalves is saved for use in

soups and sauces, keep the collection vessel in an ice bath during use.

• Strain the “liquor” of grit and shell fragments before using or storing it.

Seafood Served Raw

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Cold Seafood

Raw Clams• Raw clams are not as popular as raw

oysters and tend to be a regional specialty.

• Clams on the half-shell are popular in New England and the Mid-Atlantic states, where they are featured on coastal seafood restaurant menus.

Seafood Served Raw

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Cold Seafood

Eastern Hard-Shell Clams• Eastern hard-shell clams are graded by size. The most

common market sizes are:– Cherrystones, about 2 in. (5 cm) in diameter.– Topnecks, about 11⁄2 in. (4 cm) in diameter.– Littlenecks, 11⁄4 in. (3.5 cm) in diameter or smaller.

Seafood Served Raw

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Cold Seafood

Raw Geoduck (also called giant clam)• This huge Pacific clam can weigh up to 9 lb (4 kg), but it is usually

harvested at 2–3 lb (1–1.5kg).

Raw Mussels• In North America, mussels are almost always served cooked.

– However, pristinely fresh cultivated mussels from coldwater sources are delicious when served raw on the half-shell.

Raw Fish Specialties• In Japan, perfectly trimmed, precisely cut uncooked fish is

traditionally eaten as sashimi or combined with vinegar-seasoned rice in the form of sushi.

• There is also a lesser-known tradition of eating raw fish in Italy.

Seafood Served Raw

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Cold Seafood

Caviar is the preserved roe, or eggs, of fish. • In Europe, only the roe of certain species of Eurasian

sturgeon processed in a special manner can legally be called caviar.

• In North America, the term is also used to describe the roe of other fish, provided the type of fish is specified. – For example, the processed roe of Great Lakes whitefish may be

called whitefish caviar. – However, when a container is simply labeled caviar, its contents

must be Eurasian sturgeon caviar and have no other ingredient except salt.

Caviar

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Cold Seafood

Eurasian Sturgeon Caviar• Harvested from the Black and Caspian seas, and from

their tributary rivers. • Ranked as one of the most highly prized and most

expensive foods in the world, typically selling for more than $1,000 per pound.

• Referred to as “true caviar” to differentiate wild Eurasian sturgeon caviar from other types.

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Caviar

Cold Seafood

Eurasian Sturgeon Caviar• Three types of Eurasian sturgeon produce caviar:

1. Beluga caviar: consists of large separate berries ranging from pale to dark gray in color. It has a mild, buttery, creamy flavor. (Considered the finest type of caviar and is in greatest demand.)

2. Osetra caviar: consists of medium-sized berries ranging from the very rare golden color to brown and brownish-black. It has a distinctive nutty flavor.

3. Sevruga caviar: consists of tiny, tightly clustered berries ranging from brown to black. It has a strong, assertive flavor.

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Caviar

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Cold Seafood 6 Chapter Copyright © 2011 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc. All Rights Reserved