Coffee An Afro-Arab Gift to the World. A PowerPoint Presentation by Richard W. Franke Professor of Anthropology Montclair State University This lecture

CoffeeAn Afro-Arab Gift

to the World

A PowerPoint Presentation

by

Richard W. FrankeProfessor of AnthropologyMontclair State University

This lecture was last updated 06 November, 2013

Anthropology 140Week 12Lecture

Learning objectives for week 12 –

to discover the African origins of coffee to learn how the Muslim world brought coffee

out of Africa to appreciate some of the ways coffee has influenced world history to learn about Fair Trade: coffee's latest trend

Terms you should know:

EthiopiaMochaSufiTIPFair Trade

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Sources used for this presentation:• Braudel, Fernand. 1973. Capitalism and Material Life: 1400–1800. New

York: Harper Colophon. Trans. By Miriam Kochan.

• Dicum, Gregory, and Luttinger, Nina. 1999. The Coffee Book: Anatomy of an Industry from Crop to the Last Drop. New York: The New Press.

• Grun, Bernard. 1991. The Timetables of History. New York: Simon and Schuster. New Third Revised Edition.

• Hattox, Ralph S. 1985. Coffee and Coffeehouses: The Origins of a Social Beverage in the Medieval Near East. Seattle: University of Washington Near Eastern Studies No. 3.

• Pendergrast, Mark. 1999. Uncommon Grounds: The History of Coffee and How It Transformed Our World. New York: Basic Books.

• http://47.1911encyclopedia.org/K/KA/KAFFA.htm

• http://www.transfairusa.org

• http://www.globalexchange.org

• http://www.nytimes.com/2013/03/17/business/coffees-economics-rewritten-by-farmers.html?_r=0

Anth 140 This slide was updated 18 March 2013

http://47.1911encyclopedia.org/K/KA/KAFFA.htm

http://www.transfairusa.org/

http://www.globalexchange.org/

http://www.nytimes.com/2013/03/17/business/coffees-economics-rewritten-by-farmers.html?_r=0


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O Coffee! Thou dost dispel all care, O Coffee! Thou dost dispel all care, thou are the object of desire to the thou are the object of desire to the scholar. This is the beverage of the scholar. This is the beverage of the friends of God.friends of God.

In Praise of CoffeeIn Praise of Coffee

Arabic poem, 1511Arabic poem, 1511

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“Coffee leads men to trifle away their time, scald their chops, and spend their money, all for a little base, black, thick, nasty, bitter, stinking nauseous puddle water.”

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“…coffee falls into your stomach, and straightaway…ideas begin to move….Things remembered…. Similes arise, the paper is covered with ink.”

Honoré de Balzac1799–1850

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Coffee Facts CoffeeCoffee is is

•the second most valuable the second most valuable item of legal international item of legal international trade – after petroleum.trade – after petroleum.

•the largest food import of the largest food import of the United States by value.the United States by value.

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Coffee Facts

• The world drinks 2.25 billion The world drinks 2.25 billion cups of coffee per day.cups of coffee per day.

• The United States – with 5% The United States – with 5% of the world’s population – of the world’s population – consumes 20% of the world’s consumes 20% of the world’s coffee.coffee.

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Coffee Facts

• 20 million people around the world 20 million people around the world work on coffee plantationswork on coffee plantations

• Every cup of coffee requires 1.4 Every cup of coffee requires 1.4 square feet of land – a little less than square feet of land – a little less than twice the size of a standard 8½ by 11 twice the size of a standard 8½ by 11 inch piece of paper.inch piece of paper.

• For a total of 26.8 million acres.For a total of 26.8 million acres.

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Coffee FactsThe 13.6 The 13.6

billion pounds billion pounds produced in produced in 1996 would 1996 would make a make a pyramid pyramid higher than higher than the Eiffel the Eiffel Tower.Tower.

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The Largest Producers in The Largest Producers in the 1990sthe 1990s

BrazilBrazil

ColombiaColombiaIndonesia Indonesia

MexicoMexicoEthiopia Ethiopia

GuatemalaGuatemalaIndiaIndia

Source: Dicum, Gregory and Luttinger, Nina. 1999. The Coffee Book: Anatomy of an Industry from Crop to the Last Drop.

New York. The New Press. Page 41. Figures from FAO.

-- 2.8 billion -- 2.8 billion pounds annuallypounds annually

-- 1.8 billion-- 1.8 billion-- 900 million-- 900 million-- 800 million-- 800 million-- 475 million-- 475 million-- 450 million-- 450 million-- 425 million-- 425 million

This slide was updated 29 April 2013

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But only 13 cents on the dollar goes to the farmers and laborers who produce the coffee.

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Coffee Coffee FactsFacts

While 67 cents goes for roasting, While 67 cents goes for roasting, grinding, packaging, trucking, and grinding, packaging, trucking, and advertising.advertising.

We will return to this problem in the We will return to this problem in the final section of this presentation when final section of this presentation when we consider “we consider “Fair TradeFair Trade” coffee.” coffee.

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Why Coffee?Coffee’s famous active ingredient is Coffee’s famous active ingredient is

caffeinecaffeine, one of several hundred , one of several hundred chemicals in a single cup.chemicals in a single cup.

Caffeine is a type of Caffeine is a type of xantinexantine, the , the name for a set of compounds name for a set of compounds found in tea, cocoa, and other found in tea, cocoa, and other plants. plants.

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Why Coffee?

Caffeine –1,3,7-trimethylxanthine–blocks the action of a brain neurotransmitter named adenosine. By blocking the ability of adenosine to bind with its receptors in the brain – a binding that causes sedation – caffeine effectively stimulates brain activity.

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Why Coffee?Coffee contains 80 to 150

milligrams of caffeine per cup, more than twice as much as a cola, and more per cup than tea.

Two cups of coffee produce enough increased brain activity to show up on an EEG (electroencephalograph).

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Why Coffee?

Four cups or more will increase the heart rate and the breathing.

Caffeine takes effect in most people within 30 to 60 minutes.

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CaffeinismToo much caffeine affects the central nervous system, leading to anxiety, irritability, nervousness, lightheadedness, or diarrhea.

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CaffeinismHabitual drinkers suffer from Habitual drinkers suffer from fatigue and pounding headaches fatigue and pounding headaches when they try to stop or reduce when they try to stop or reduce their intake.their intake.

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CaffeinismCaffeine interferes with tranquilizers such as valium, but caffeine’s effects can be heightened when ingested while taking birth control pills and some other drugs that cause the caffeine to accumulate in the body.

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Caffeine As Medicine

Caffeine dilates the blood vessels leading to the heart, thus increasing blood flow, while restricting blood flow in the head, which helps to diminish headaches – even migraines.

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Caffeine As Medicine

Xanthines such as caffeine dilate the bronchioles in the lungs and relax the smooth muscles which regulate respiration. A couple cups of coffee can reduce the severity of an asthma attack – something known for centuries.

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Caffeine As MedicineStatistical research suggests that

regular coffee drinkers are less likely to commit suicide and less likely to suffer from hypertension, diabetes, ulcers, and some other diseases.

Drinking fewer than five cups a day keeps you safe from any increased risk of heart disease.

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Caffeine And Disease

However, caffeine causes However, caffeine causes females to lose calcium and females to lose calcium and thus increases the risk of thus increases the risk of osteoporosis unless offset by osteoporosis unless offset by ingestion of additional calcium.ingestion of additional calcium.

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Caffeine And Disease

Coffee has been implicated in several types Coffee has been implicated in several types of cancer, premature births, low birth weight of cancer, premature births, low birth weight babies, and heart disease.babies, and heart disease.

However, further research suggests that However, further research suggests that coffee drinkers may have a greater tendency coffee drinkers may have a greater tendency to engage in other behavior such as smoking to engage in other behavior such as smoking that is the immediate cause of these that is the immediate cause of these problems.problems.

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Coffee and Coffee and SocialabilitySocialability

It is the social aspect of coffee It is the social aspect of coffee drinking – perhaps connected to drinking – perhaps connected to caffeine’s stimulation of the caffeine’s stimulation of the nervous system and brain – that nervous system and brain – that has made coffee the focus of so has made coffee the focus of so much activity and attention much activity and attention throughout its brief history.throughout its brief history.

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We will review some of We will review some of the history of coffee, the history of coffee, coffeehouses, politics, coffeehouses, politics, and society shortly. But and society shortly. But first…first…

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What Is Coffee?What Is Coffee?• Coffee is the fruit of a woody shrub of Coffee is the fruit of a woody shrub of

the genus the genus CoffeaCoffea, in the family , in the family Rubiaceae.Rubiaceae.

• The coffee bush can grow to a height The coffee bush can grow to a height of 32 feet, but is usually cut off at of 32 feet, but is usually cut off at about 8 feet.about 8 feet.

• It grew originally in the tropical It grew originally in the tropical forests of Africaforests of Africa

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What Is Coffee?What Is Coffee?

After the flowers pollinate, After the flowers pollinate, small “cherries” develop, small “cherries” develop, each with two seeds, or each with two seeds, or coffee “beans.”coffee “beans.”

Coffee requires a lot Coffee requires a lot of sunshine, of sunshine, moderate rainfall, moderate rainfall, altitudes between altitudes between sea level and 6,000 sea level and 6,000 feet, average feet, average temperatures temperatures between 60 and 70 between 60 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit, degrees Fahrenheit, and freedom from and freedom from frost.frost.

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What Is Coffee?What Is Coffee?After 7 to 11 months, the green cherries ripen, turning red.

One coffee bush can produce about 4,000 beans per year = one pound of roasted coffee.

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What Is Coffee?What Is Coffee?There are more than There are more than 20 species of coffee, 20 species of coffee, but…but…

……only two account only two account for most of the for most of the world’s production world’s production and consumption.and consumption.

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What Is Coffee?What Is Coffee?Coffea arabica,Coffea arabica, the the original coffee, and original coffee, and considered by most considered by most people to have the people to have the better taste.better taste.

About ¾ of the About ¾ of the world’s coffee is world’s coffee is arabicaarabica today. today.

Coffea canephoraCoffea canephora, , known to most known to most people as “robusta.”people as “robusta.”

Robusta has more Robusta has more caffeine, grows in caffeine, grows in hotter climates, and hotter climates, and is more disease is more disease resistant.resistant.

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What Is Coffee?What Is Coffee?

• The coffee bean is a The coffee bean is a complex biological complex biological entityentity

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What Is Coffee?What Is Coffee?The beans are dried The beans are dried and roasted.and roasted.

Much of this tedious Much of this tedious and low paid work is and low paid work is done by women done by women throughout the throughout the world – as shown world – as shown here by women in here by women in Zaire, Central Africa. Zaire, Central Africa.

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Origin of CoffeeOrigin of Coffee• Coffee comes to the world from Coffee comes to the world from

Ethiopia Ethiopia – – a country of Eastern Africa.a country of Eastern Africa.• It has the longest known history of any It has the longest known history of any

African nation except for Egypt.African nation except for Egypt.• Once known as “Kush,” (including part Once known as “Kush,” (including part

of modern day Sudan) Ethiopia or of modern day Sudan) Ethiopia or Sudan produced at least one of the Sudan produced at least one of the pharaohs of ancient Egypt in the 8pharaohs of ancient Egypt in the 8thth Century BC.Century BC.

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EthiopiaEthiopia• The Queen of Sheba is thought by some to The Queen of Sheba is thought by some to

have been an Ethiopian monarch.have been an Ethiopian monarch.• Modern Ethiopia is a complex nation with a Modern Ethiopia is a complex nation with a

population of 91 million people in 2012 population of 91 million people in 2012 – – second only to Nigeria in Africa.second only to Nigeria in Africa.

• 85 languages are spoken within its borders 85 languages are spoken within its borders in addition to Arabic and English that are in addition to Arabic and English that are widely used as connecting languages (lingua widely used as connecting languages (lingua francas).francas).

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EthiopiaEthiopia• The Blue Nile, the main source of the The Blue Nile, the main source of the

Nile River of Egypt, originates in Lake Nile River of Egypt, originates in Lake Tana of Northwest EthiopiaTana of Northwest Ethiopia

• About 45% of Ethiopia’s people are About 45% of Ethiopia’s people are Muslim, while…Muslim, while…

• About 40% are Ethiopian Orthodox, About 40% are Ethiopian Orthodox, also called “Coptic Christians.”also called “Coptic Christians.”

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Coptic ChristianityCoptic Christianity• Coptic Christians believe that their religion Coptic Christians believe that their religion

was founded by Saint Mark.was founded by Saint Mark.• ““Coptic” means “Egyptian.”Coptic” means “Egyptian.”• They follow their own Pope who resides in They follow their own Pope who resides in

Alexandria Egypt.Alexandria Egypt.• The present Coptic Pope is Shenouda III.The present Coptic Pope is Shenouda III.• Coptic Christians have their own version of Coptic Christians have their own version of

the Bible and in Ethiopia they have their own the Bible and in Ethiopia they have their own written language in which their Bible is written language in which their Bible is printed.printed.

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Coptic ChristianityCoptic Christianity

Coptic Christianity is thought by scholars to be as old as 60 Coptic Christianity is thought by scholars to be as old as 60 ADAD in Egypt and in Egypt and almost that old in Ethiopia. This hymn and prayer book with Arabic translations almost that old in Ethiopia. This hymn and prayer book with Arabic translations in the right hand column resides in The Coptic Museum in Cairo, Egypt.in the right hand column resides in The Coptic Museum in Cairo, Egypt.

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Origin of CoffeeOrigin of Coffee• But neither Muslims nor Christians But neither Muslims nor Christians

invented coffee.invented coffee.• Our word “coffee” probably comes Our word “coffee” probably comes

from the Ethiopian “Kaffa,” a province from the Ethiopian “Kaffa,” a province of ancient Abyssinia (Ethiopia) where of ancient Abyssinia (Ethiopia) where the Galla or Kafischo speaking people the Galla or Kafischo speaking people lived.lived.

• The map on the next slide shows where The map on the next slide shows where coffee was invented.coffee was invented.

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Origin Origin

of of

CoffeeCoffee

Kaffa Kaffa AreaArea

→→

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Origin of CoffeeOrigin of CoffeeThe Kaffa area is southwest of the The Kaffa area is southwest of the modern capital of Addis Ababa…modern capital of Addis Ababa…

……and just west of the Great Rift Valley, and just west of the Great Rift Valley, where the African continent is splitting where the African continent is splitting apart in one of the world’s great apart in one of the world’s great geological processes.geological processes.

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Origin Origin

of of

CoffeeCoffee

Kaffa Kaffa AreaArea

→→Great Rift Great Rift

ValleyValley→→

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Origin of CoffeeOrigin of CoffeeHere, by or before 575 Here, by or before 575 ADAD the Galla the Galla people began harvesting and eating the people began harvesting and eating the coffee beans for quick energy. coffee beans for quick energy.

Originally, the beans were crushed in Originally, the beans were crushed in with balls of animal fat to create a high with balls of animal fat to create a high protein energy bar for use on long protein energy bar for use on long treks.treks.

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Origin of CoffeeOrigin of CoffeeA modern Ethiopian recipe maintains A modern Ethiopian recipe maintains the historical origin of coffee: mix fire-the historical origin of coffee: mix fire-roasted beans with salt, butter, onions, roasted beans with salt, butter, onions, fenugreek, white cumin, basil, fenugreek, white cumin, basil, cardamom, oregano, and turmeric.cardamom, oregano, and turmeric.

Nearby ethnic groups began brewing Nearby ethnic groups began brewing the beans with boiling water or the beans with boiling water or fermenting them into a coffee wine.fermenting them into a coffee wine.

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Origin of CoffeeOrigin of CoffeeOne local Ethiopian story has it that a One local Ethiopian story has it that a shepherd named “Kaldi,” (“hot” in shepherd named “Kaldi,” (“hot” in Arabic) noticed his goats behaving Arabic) noticed his goats behaving strangely after ingesting the red strangely after ingesting the red berries.berries.

The real discoverer of coffee may The real discoverer of coffee may remain forever anonymous.remain forever anonymous.

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The Muslim Connection

The spread of coffee out of the The spread of coffee out of the high plateau of southwestern high plateau of southwestern Ethiopia was facilitated by traders Ethiopia was facilitated by traders and scholars of the Muslim world and scholars of the Muslim world of the time of the European Middle of the time of the European Middle Ages.Ages.

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By the 9By the 9thth and 10 and 10thth Centuries Centuries coffee had made its way to coffee had made its way to Mocha, a port on the Red Sea Mocha, a port on the Red Sea where it quickly became a where it quickly became a popular drink.popular drink.

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← ← MochaMocha

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This was the time of:This was the time of:

• CharlemagneCharlemagne

• Alfred The GreatAlfred The Great

• Discovery of IcelandDiscovery of Iceland

• London BridgeLondon Bridge

• Classic Age of the MayaClassic Age of the Maya

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And in the Muslim World:And in the Muslim World:• Chwarazmi coins the word “algebra”Chwarazmi coins the word “algebra”• Adoption of Indian numbers, including zeroAdoption of Indian numbers, including zero• Perfection of the AstrolabePerfection of the Astrolabe• CCórdoba, Spain becomes Arabic scientific órdoba, Spain becomes Arabic scientific

and medical centerand medical center• Arabs bring the trumpet to European musicArabs bring the trumpet to European music

Source: Grun, Bernard. 1991. The Timetables of History. New York: Simon and Schuster. New Third Revised Edition.

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Scholars now agree that coffee Scholars now agree that coffee was spread initially in and around was spread initially in and around the Yemeni port of Mocha by the Yemeni port of Mocha by members of the members of the SufiSufi sect among sect among Muslims. [Not to be confused with Muslims. [Not to be confused with the Sunnis, the majority tendency the Sunnis, the majority tendency in Islam.]in Islam.]

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The Sufi Connection

Sufism is a mystical branch of Islam, Sufism is a mystical branch of Islam, oblivious to the outside world, oblivious to the outside world, searching for God through a spiritual searching for God through a spiritual merging. Sufism produced some of merging. Sufism produced some of Islam’s greatest poetry.Islam’s greatest poetry.

Sufis hold Sufis hold dhikrsdhikrs – communal worship – communal worship services at night – where they attempt services at night – where they attempt to induce a trancelike state.to induce a trancelike state.

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The Sufi Connection

These trances are often induced by the These trances are often induced by the rhythmic repetition of the name of God, or by rhythmic repetition of the name of God, or by the the shahshahādaāda, the Muslim profession of faith – , the Muslim profession of faith – “There is no God but God and Mohammed is “There is no God but God and Mohammed is his messenger” – often with group swaying his messenger” – often with group swaying of the bodies to produce a hypnotic effectof the bodies to produce a hypnotic effect.

Source: Hattox, Ralph S. 1985. Coffee and Coffeehouses: The Origins of a Social Beverage in the Medieval Near East. Seattle: University of Washington Near Eastern Studies No. 3. Pages 23–25

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The Sufi Connection

Muslims are forbidden to take alcohol Muslims are forbidden to take alcohol [the word alcohol is Arabic], but Sufi [the word alcohol is Arabic], but Sufi mystics found the stimulation from mystics found the stimulation from coffee to be theologically acceptable coffee to be theologically acceptable and gave it the name and gave it the name qahwaqahwa, from an , from an Arabic word referring to wine. Some Arabic word referring to wine. Some scholars believe this is the origin of the scholars believe this is the origin of the word coffee.word coffee.

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The Sufi Connection

By the 15By the 15thth Century, Sufis were Century, Sufis were practicing their form of Islam practicing their form of Islam throughout the Muslim world. They may throughout the Muslim world. They may have spread the practice of coffee have spread the practice of coffee drinking from the Yemeni Sufi drinking from the Yemeni Sufi community to Sufi communities community to Sufi communities throughout the Muslim world.throughout the Muslim world.

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The Sufi Connection

From the Sufi trance sessions, From the Sufi trance sessions, coffee also began to spread into coffee also began to spread into secular life in Yemen, being sold secular life in Yemen, being sold on the street and in special on the street and in special drinking spots called “coffee drinking spots called “coffee houses.”houses.”

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A reaction set A reaction set in from the in from the authorities: authorities: Men who Men who frequented the frequented the coffee houses coffee houses were accused were accused of gambling, of gambling, criminal criminal activity, sexual activity, sexual adventures, adventures, and criticizing and criticizing the rulers.the rulers.

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In 1511, In 1511, Khair-Beg, the governor of Khair-Beg, the governor of nearby Mecca, Islam’s holiest site, nearby Mecca, Islam’s holiest site, outlawed coffee and the coffee outlawed coffee and the coffee houses after hearing that the houses after hearing that the patrons were reciting satirical patrons were reciting satirical poems about him.poems about him.Source: Pendergrast, Mark. 1999. Uncommon Grounds: The History of Coffee and

How It Transformed Our World. New York: Basic Books. Page 6.

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Khair-Beg’s official physicians and Khair-Beg’s official physicians and theological advisors pronounced theological advisors pronounced coffee a violation of the Islamic coffee a violation of the Islamic injunction against alcohol, even injunction against alcohol, even though coffee is not mentioned in though coffee is not mentioned in The KoranThe Koran, Islam’s holy text., Islam’s holy text.

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They claimed that coffee induces the They claimed that coffee induces the state of state of sukrsukr, or intoxication, that the , or intoxication, that the Koran does forbid.Koran does forbid.

Word shortly came from Cairo, where Word shortly came from Cairo, where the most prestigious Islamic scholars the most prestigious Islamic scholars of the time congregated and taught…of the time congregated and taught…

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……at the Al-Ahzar at the Al-Ahzar Mosque and Mosque and

university, that university, that coffee did not coffee did not

violate Islamic violate Islamic law.law.

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When the Ottoman Turks conquered When the Ottoman Turks conquered Yemen in 1536, the stage was set for Yemen in 1536, the stage was set for the further spread of coffee because it the further spread of coffee because it was primarily through the Ottoman was primarily through the Ottoman Turkish empire that coffee drinking Turkish empire that coffee drinking spread into Europe.spread into Europe.

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Coffee Comes to Europe

Prospero Alpini, an Italian doctor Prospero Alpini, an Italian doctor who visited Egypt in 1592 may who visited Egypt in 1592 may have been the first to bring coffee have been the first to bring coffee to Europe.to Europe.

Through Alpini…Through Alpini…

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…coffee made its way to:

• Venice in 1615

• Lyons and Paris in 1644

• London in 1650

• Vienna in 1651

• Sweden in 1675Source: Braudel, page 184.

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Europeans quickly moved to break free of Arab-Islamic control over the coffee trade.

The Dutch planted coffee shrubs in Sri Lanka (Ceylon) in 1658, and in Java from 1712 – later producing so much coffee that the drink became known for many decades as a “cup of Java.”

Sources: Braudel, page 187; Pendergrast, page 7.

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By 1722 the French were planting coffee on the Caribbean islands under their control.When Napoleon’s troops drove the Portuguese king from Lisbon in 1807, British ships carried him to Brazil where he set up coffee plantations to pay for his expensive life style.

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Like the Muslims before them, Europeans took to coffee with a craze but found themselves in a hot debate about its qualities.

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Fear of the “immoral” consequences of coffee drinking led middle class fathers to forbid the drink to their daughters.

In 1732 this led Johann Sebastian Bach to write Cantata No. 211 – the “Coffee Cantata.”

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Sings daughter Lieschen to her father Schlendrian:

“If I don’t have my three cups of coffee a day, I’m like a dried up piece of roast goat.”

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Papa Schlendrian threatens her with every kind of restriction, but she wants her coffee. Only when he refuses to find her a husband does she relent.

But Lieschen lets the word out around town: she will wed only the man who assures her 3 cups of coffee per day.

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2013 Update2013 Update

To watch a performanceTo watch a performance of Bach’s 27 minute of Bach’s 27 minute

Coffee Cantata on youtube, Coffee Cantata on youtube, clickclick here.

This slide was added 06 November 2013

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H5Ocydot-vA

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With Coffee Came the Muslim Coffeehouse…

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Without the Muslims as shown in the previous slide of Lloyd’s Coffeehouse in 17th Century England, where…

…Gentlemen discussed the shipping news – Lloyds was and is one of the biggest shipping insurance companies – and put coins in a small brass can labeled “To Insure Promptness”: later shortened to TIP.

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Coffeehouses and Revolution

As in Muslim Yemen, Egypt, and Turkey, the coffeehouse in Europe became associated with anti-ruler political activities.

Conservatives tried to shut down coffeehouses, but with little success.

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From the Café Foy in 1789 Camille Desmoulins led the crowd that brought down the Bastille – Louis XIV’s hated prison

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On Dec 16, 1773 American colonists dressed as Mohawk Indians threw overboard 342 crates of British tea in Boston.

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The group, calling itself the “Sons of Liberty,” had planned the event in a nearby coffeehouse.

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Coffee in America

But most 18th and early 19th century Americans – including children – drank cider or beer along with their corn, potatoes, and pork.

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Coffee in America

During the war of 1812, when Britain defeated a U.S. attempt to annex Canada, Americans began drinking more and more coffee in a wave of enthusiasm for everything French.

But generally coffee in the mostly rural 19th Century U.S. got brewed and drunk at home.

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Coffee in America

Home roasted American coffee was boiled in a pot with flavorings such as eggs, fish, and eel skins.

The addition of sugar and milk was said to improve the flavor.

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Coffee in America

During the Civil War, Union troops were supplied daily with one-tenth of a pound of green coffee beans.

After the war in 1865, the giant coffee companies arose:

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Coffee in America

• Arbuckle’s Ariosa Coffee (later called Yuban)

• Chase and Sanborn• Folgers• Hills Brothers• Maxwell House• A and P• Jewel Tea

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Coffee in America

• Home roasting was replaced by giant roasting factories where men worked 10 hour days 6 days a week and were often burned or asphixiated.

• Companies fought price and advertising wars…

• …and battled anti-coffee products such as Postum.

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In 1952 the Pan American Coffee Bureau invented the coffee break.

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Caffeine At WorkThe coffee The coffee break uses break uses caffeine to caffeine to mobilize body mobilize body fat and make it fat and make it available to the available to the muscles. muscles. Workers feel Workers feel rejuvenated rejuvenated because, in a because, in a chemical chemical sense, they are.sense, they are.

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And And American American industry industry found ever found ever new ways to new ways to make coffee make coffee less social less social and worse and worse tasting.tasting.

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From Berkeley to Starbucks

The modern coffeehouse movement in America developed in the 1960s.

Dutch immigrant Alfred Peet opened Peet’s Coffee & Tea in 1966 in Berkeley, California. Using high quality Arabica beans from Colombia, he soon had crowds lined around the block.

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As the Vietnam war escalated in the late 1960s, antiwar activists opened coffee houses on the outskirts of military bases.

Soldiers and veterans grew long hair and talked of atrocities and anger. The GI antiwar movement was a key element in the eventual US withdrawal.

Source: Pendergrast, pages 299–300.

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In 1971 Jerry Baldwin, Gordon Bowker, and Zev Siegl (left to right) founded Starbucks in Seattle.

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As it grew in size, Starbucks was criticized for driving small local coffeehouses out of business.

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Fair Trade CoffeeIn 1987, Franz van der Hoff, a Dutch priest working with a coffee cooperative in Oaxaca, Mexico, set up a trading arrangement with Solidaridad, a Dutch support group in The Netherlands. Small importers who were battling Douwe Egberts, the Dutch mega-coffee company, offered to help market the coffee.

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Fair Trade CoffeeThe Dutch radicals named their certifying agency the “Max Havelaar Quality Mark,” after the title of the most famous novel in Dutch literature.

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Fair Trade CoffeePublished in 1860, the book set off a storm of protest and self-reflection in colonial Holland, for its denunciation of the mistreatment of the Javanese colonial subjects – mistreatment ultimately…

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Fair Trade Coffee…in the name of coffee. The fictional hero, Max

Havelaar, is a colonial official who finds the system of oppression too much in conflict with his morals. The book shifts back and forth between an Amsterdam coffee merchant interested only in profits and the lush Javanese countryside where Havelaar battles injustice – unsuccessfully.

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Fair Trade CoffeeThe novel’s beautiful language earned the author the title “The Dutch Shakespeare,” and the structure is said to have influenced Joseph Conrad’s Lord Jim and Heart of Darkness – both of which utilize a version of it. D. H. Lawrence is also said to have been an admirer of the author, Eduard Douwes Dekker, who took the pen name “Multituli,” Latin for “I have suffered much.”

100

Fair Trade Coffee

Not Not

Just a Just a

Cup, Cup,

but a but a

Just Just

CupCup

During the same period, American Paul Katzeff was setting up “Coffee for Peace,” and selling Nicaraguan coffee in the USA.

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Fair Trade CoffeeBy the 1990s the Max Havelaar certifying agency and the US Fair Trade movement had merged efforts to produce an international marketing network with three main goals:

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Fair Trade Coffee• Fair prices to the coffee producers and

laborers – remember slide 13 where only 13 cents on the dollar goes to the producers.

• Organic or pesticide free coffee.• Shade grown coffee that leaves the major

trees for bird habitats and climate and environmental protection.

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Fair Trade Coffee Criteria

• Fairtrade labelling has established the following general criteria for its products:

• a price that covers the cost of production

• social premium for development purposes…and…

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Fair Trade Coffee Criteria

• partial payment in advance to avoid small producer organizations falling into debt

• long term trade relations that allow proper planning and sustainable production practices

• contracts that allow long term production planning

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Fair Trade Production Conditions

• the right to join trade unions • no child or forced labor • minimum environmental

requirements

• Fair production conditions include:

• for small farmers’ co-operatives a democratic, participative structure

• for plantations and factories

the workers should have: • decent wages (at least the

legal minimum)

• good housing, where

appropriate • minimum health and safety

standards

106

Fair Trade CoffeeSo who sells fair trade coffee?

Starbucks

…and…

Global Exchange http://www.globalexchange.org

…and…

Equal Exchangehttp://www.equalexchange.coop/


http://www.equalexchange.coop/

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Fair Trade CoffeeStarbucks and other retail outlets do not tend to feature fair trade coffee. You have to look for it and ask for it…

…and it does cost 10% to 20% more.

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Fair Trade Coffee PricingFair trade coffee is priced to the producers at 5 cents per pound

above the New York or London market prices for regular coffee and 15 cents higher than that for certified organic coffee.

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Fair Trade Coffee Pricing

In addition, minimum prices come into effect for fair trade coffee – but NOT for other coffee – when the market prices drop below certain levels. For example, washed arabica cannot go below $1.26 per pound while certified organic cannot fall below $1.410

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Fair Trade Coffee 2013 Update

A New York Times feature article in the Business Section for 17 March 2013 describes a new development in Fair Trade Coffee: some producers are able to process the coffee and sell at the higher finished price of $7.25 or even more.

This higher price comes with various difficulties such as the problem of small producers being able to guarantee the flavor.

To read the NYTimes article, click here.

This slide was added 18 March 2013


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Why We Need Fair Trade Coffee

• Coffee prices to the producers are at their lowest level in 100 years, and are only ¼ of what they were in 1960.

• In many areas producers are losing so much money they cannot afford to keep their children in school, cannot afford health care, or are about to lose their land.

• Some farmers are switching to drug production out of desperation.

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• Meanwhile corporate profits in coffee are on the rise.

• Sara Lee’s beverage profits – mostly from coffee – were up 17% in 2002.

• Nestlé now makes 26 cents on the dollar for its instant coffee in England.

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The price protections alone for fair trade coffee are thus becoming a life and death matter for millions in the Third World who produce the coffee.

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Fair trade coffee protects

• Producers

• Consumers

• The environment

…and

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…it is part of a larger question sometimes forgotten in the individualistic, competitive world of modern capitalism…

What is the economy for?

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…profits or people?

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Do we want to live in a fortress America, privileged over and isolated from millions of frustrated poor people whom we try to keep under control with our vast military machine?

Or…

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…do we want to live in a world of solidarity and cooperation where ethics and concern for others play roles in our consumption decisions?

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Have a cup of coffee and think it over.

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Montclair State University Department of AnthropologyAnth 140: Non Western Contributions to the Western World

Professor Emeritus Richard W. Franke

United Students for Fair Trade:http://www.usft.orgTransfair USA:http://www.transfairusa.orgFair Trade Federation:http://www.fairtradefederation.orgGlobal Exchange:http://www.globalexchange.org

http://www.usft.org/

http://www.transfairusa.org/

http://www.fairtradefederation.org/


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2013 Update: Fair Trade Sugar

If you put sugar in your coffee, you might want to know that much sugar has been heavily sprayed with pesticides and/or herbicides and most used in the US today is also GMO (genetically modified).

Fair Trade Sugar, however, is mostly free of sprayed chemicals and is non-GMO. For more info on this, including info on how to find fair trade sugar locally, click on the link below:

http://www.greenamerica.org/programs/fairtrade/products/sugar.cfm

This slide was added 29 April 2013

http://www.greenamerica.org/programs/fairtrade/products/sugar.cfm

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End of slides for Week 12Coffee: An Afro-Arab Contribution and

Fair Trade Coffee

Documents

Coffee An Afro-Arab Gift to the World. A PowerPoint Presentation by Richard W. Franke Professor of Anthropology Montclair State University This lecture